The breaking wave height is a crucial parameter for coastal studies but direct measurements constitute a difficult task due to logistical and technical constraints. This paper presents two new practical methods for estimating the breaking wave height...
Estimating wave-breaking indexes such as wave height and water depth is essential to understanding the location and scale of the breaking wave. Therefore, numerous wave-flume laboratory experiments have been conducted to develop empirical wave-breaki...
Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker indexes such as breaking wave height and breaking depth wh...
We address surface wave breaking caused by oceanic Internal Solitary Waves (ISWs) and how ISWs are manifested in the SAR altimeter onboard Sentinel-3A and -3B satellites by means of their effects in Significant Wave Height (SWH). Two different region...
This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation on the impact of dam-break-induced surges on a vertical wall. The instantaneous surge height and dynamic pressure on a vertical wall were measured for surges with different reservoir de...
This companion paper investigates the hydrodynamics of turbulent bores that propagate on a horizontal plane and have a striking resemblance to dam break waves and tsunami-like hydraulic bores. The focus of this paper is on the propagation of a turbul...
This paper presents a computational model for coast wave motions with multiple wave breakings. In the Boussinesq model, the wave breaking judgment method is combined with the wave recovery judgment condition, which stops the wave breaking process whe...
Coastal plants can significantly dissipate water wave energy and services as a part of shoreline protection. Using plants as a natural buffer from wave impacts remains an attractive possibility. In this paper, we present a numerical investigation on...
Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused on non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced pore pressure response in a sandy seabed was phys...
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of...
It is known that the wave breaking process is significantly affected by a current, but little attention has been paid to the effect of wave–current interaction on the breaking wave forces acting on a monopile. This study presented a total of 88...
Broken wave characteristics in front of a vertical seawall were modeled and studied using a shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model FUNWAVE-TVD. Validation with the experimental data confirmed the capability of FUNWAVE-TVD in predicting the wave charac...
Turbulent motions in the thin ocean surface boundary layer control exchanges of momentum, heat and trace gases between the atmosphere and ocean. However, present parametric equations of turbulent motions that are applied to global climate models resu...
Most offshore wind turbines are installed in shallow water and exposed to breaking waves. Previous numerical studies focusing on breaking wave forces generally ignored the seabed permeability. In this paper, a numerical model based on Volume-Averaged...
The breaker index in contemporary spectral wave models is a vital parameter in studying depth-induced wave breaking, which is an important mechanism in coastal engineering. In the previous study, the authors modified a Goda type breaker index formula...
Accurately simulating wave breaking is crucial for modeling hydrodynamics over steep coral reef slopes, yet it remains a challenge for Boussinesq-type models like FUNWAVE-TVD. The model’s standard hybrid breaking mechanism, triggered by a fixed...
A new three-dimensional high-order shock-capturing model for the numerical simulation of breaking waves is proposed. The proposed model is based on an integral contravariant form of the Navier–Stokes equations in a time-dependent generalized cu...
Wave interactions with vertical and sloping seawalls are indeed complicated, especially for the impacts due to breaking waves, which are unsteady, turbulent and multi-phase. Available studies successfully measured the impact pressure due to waves act...
Implementing quadrangular hollow blocks on breakwaters is a common method for wave mitigation and ocean disaster prevention. In order to improve the wave-damping performance of conventional quadrangular hollow blocks, a new quadrangular hollow block...
We propose a two-equation turbulence model based on modification of the
In this paper, a hydraulic model experiment was conducted to investigate the mechanism of longshore sediment transport on a sloping beach of 1:7 using a circular wave tank equipped with a spiral wave maker. The experimental results revealed that cros...
Armor stability formulas for mound breakwaters are commonly based on 2D small-scale physical tests conducted in non-overtopping and non-breaking conditions. However, most of the breakwaters built around the world are located in breaking or partially-...
The low-lying reef islands distributed in the tropical and subtropical coastal regions are highly vulnerable to the devastating damages of surges and waves during the severe weather events. Over the past two decades, extreme waves have caused tremend...
Laboratory experiments were conducted to evaluate the feasibility of profiling and characterizing subsurface bubble plumes following a breaking wave event from an above-water Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) system. Measurements of LiDAR backscatt...
The role of wave breaking in microwave backscattering from the sea surface is a problem of great importance for the development of theories and methods on ocean remote sensing, in particular for oil spill remote sensing. Recently it has been shown th...
In the laboratory experiment, 1:25 scaled models are constructed to investigate the effect of different swell and wind-sea proportions on the wave transformation. The source of the wave spectrum is related to the wave conditions in the Gulf of Guinea...
Many coastal bridges have been destroyed or damaged by tsunami waves. Some studies have been conducted to investigate wave impact on bridge decks, but there is little concerning the effect of bridge superelevation. A three-dimensional (3D) dam break...
This study aimed to evaluate how tidal modulation influences breaking waves on a macrotidal beach along the Amazonian coast under varying climatic conditions. The study utilized medium-term data (2006–2018) from national and international insti...
Breaking waves constitute one of the main environmental stressors on coastal structures as well as a leading hazard to navigation in nearshore regions. In this paper, we use camera-based methods to measure wave breaking over two jetty systems in the...
A two-phase incompressible flow model in three-dimensional cylindrical coordinates is applied for oblique wave generation in a numerical circular wave tank. The governing equations are discretized by a finite volume method, and a mass source function...
The nonlinear wave shape, expressed by skewness and asymmetry, can be calculated from surface elevation or pressure time series using bispectral analysis. Here, it is shown that the same analysis technique can be used to calculate the bound superharm...
This paper presents a study of run-up/overtopping over a smooth impermeable dike with promenade using 2D and 3D mesh-based and mesh-free numerical models and results from 2D physical modelling for strong energetic incident waves. These waves induce p...
Erosion and flooding are the main threats for most coastal regions. Nature-based solutions, such as coastal vegetation (CV) fields, have received significant attention in recent years because they effectively dissipate wave energy while maintaining b...
The Ganges-Brahmaputra-Meghna delta, located in the southern part of Bangladesh, is periodically exposed to severe tropical cyclones. It is estimated that two-fifths of the world’s total impact from tropical-cyclone-induced storm surges occur i...
The Akhmediev breather (AB) solution of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) shows that the maximum crest height of modulated wave trains reaches triple the initial amplitude as a consequence of nonlinear long-term evolution. Several fully...
Impulse waves are generated by landslides or avalanches impacting oceans, lakes or reservoirs, for example. Non-breaking impulse wave runup on slope angles ranging from 10° to 90° (V/H: 1/5.7 to 1/0) is investigated. The prediction of runup h...
This article presents a rock armour stability formula for coastal revetments under depth-limited breaking waves that defines requisite armour mass as a function of incident wave energy. Parameters include wave height, wave period, toe depth, revetmen...
In spectral wave models, the nonlinear triad source term accounts for the transfer of energy to the bound higher harmonics. This paper presents an extension to commonly used spectral models that resolves the evolution of the bound wave energy by keep...
The three-dimensional, turbulent, free-surface flow developing in the surf zone over a constant-slope beach as a result of the interaction between the longshore current and the undertow, induced by spilling wave breaking oblique to the shoreline, is...
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, ope...
Nearshore bathymetry is key to most oceanographic studies and coastal engineering works. This work proposes a new methodology to assess nearshore wave celerity and infer bathymetry from video images. Shoaling and breaking wave patterns were detected...
In the present paper, a comparative study of different cylindrical and conical substructures was performed under breaking wave loading with the open-source Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) package OpenFoam capable of the development of a numerical...
Wave deformation and sediment transport nearest the shoreside are among the main reasons for sand erosion and beach profile changes. In particular, identifying the areas of incident-wave breaking and longshore current generation parallel to the shore...
Extreme surface winds and wave heights of tropical cyclones (TCs)—pose serious threats to coastal community, infrastructure and environments. In recent decades, progress in numerical wave modeling has significantly enhanced the ability to recon...
On 6 December 2010, an extra-tropical storm reached Atlantic Canada, causing coastal flooding due to high water levels being driven toward the north shore of Chaleur Bay. The extent of flooding was identified in the field along the coastline at Maria...
Super Typhoons Maria (2018) and Lekima (2019) were adopted for this case study, although they only passed the northern offshore waters of Taiwan without making landfall. A direct modification technique was employed to create the atmospheric condition...
Unsteady two-dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with the
Environmental load data are an essential input for the analysis of offshore wind structures in typhoon-prone marine environments. However, numerical simulations of typhoon waves lack a systematic examination of the specific influence of typhoon traje...
The non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to investigate the hydrodynamic processes at a reef fringed pocket beach in southwestern Australia (Gnarabup Beach). Gnarabup Beach is a ~1.5 km long beach with highly variable bathymetry that is bou...
The prediction of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics is essential in the design and construction of reef top structures on fringing reefs. To simulate the transformation process with better accuracy and time efficiency, a shock-capturin...
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