Interaction Between the Longshore Current and the Undertow Induced by the Turbulent Flow in the Surf Zone of Oblique Spilling Breakers

The three-dimensional, turbulent, free-surface flow developing in the surf zone over a constant-slope beach as a result of the interaction between the longshore current and the undertow, induced by spilling wave breaking oblique to the shoreline, is numerically simulated. The simulations are performed by implementing the large-wave simulation (LWS) method in a numerical solver of the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations. According to the LWS method, large velocity and free-surface elevation scales are fully resolved, while the effect of the corresponding subgrid scales is modeled by eddy-viscosity stresses. The model validation is based on the comparison between the present numerical results and existing experimental measurements for a case of incident regular waves propagating normal to the shoreline over a bed of constant slope 1/35. It is found that the LWS model adequately predicts the wave-breaking parameters—breaking height and depth—and the undertow vertical profiles in the surf zone. Then, two cases of oblique waves, with wave incidence angles of 20° and 30°, and all other parameters identical to those of the validation case, are considered. The numerical results include the gradual breaking process of the refracted waves, as well as the three-dimensional structure of the longshore current and the undertow in the surf zone. In the outer surf zone, the undertow has a larger velocity magnitude than the longshore current, while in the inner surf zone, the opposite occurs.