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Cosmetics
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Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025
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Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 December 2025 | Viewed by 6176

Special Issue Editor

Prof. Dr. Enzo Berardesca

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami, Miami, FL 33136, USA
Interests: dermatology; skin care; contact dermatitis; cosmetic efficacy; cosmetic formulation; barrier function; skin irritation
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

As Editor-in-Chief of Cosmetics, I am pleased to announce this 2025 Special Issue. As in previous years, this Special Issue will be a collection of high-quality papers from Editorial Board members, Guest Editors, and leading researchers invited by the Editorial Office and the Editor-in-Chief. Science in the field of cosmetics is rapidly expanding, and many areas are of great interest for us. One of the most thrilling developments in recent years is the rise in personalized skincare solutions. Leveraging cutting-edge artificial intelligence (AI) and genomic research, scientists are crafting bespoke skincare regimens tailored to individual genetic profiles.

Sustainability continues to be a paramount focus, with researchers unveiling novel methods to minimize environmental impact. Biodegradable packaging, eco-friendly ingredients, and innovative recycling techniques are at the forefront of this movement, setting new standards for responsible beauty practices.

Moreover, the exploration of novel ingredients continues to captivate researchers and consumers alike. From marine biotechnology harnessing the power of algae to harnessing the regenerative properties of plant stem cells, these innovations offer new avenues for skincare and cosmetic formulations that are both effective and ethically sourced. The intersection between technology and beauty is another fascinating realm. The year 2025 heralds a new chapter in the cosmetics industry, defined by personalized solutions, sustainable practices, technological integration, and groundbreaking ingredients, and we hope many of you will embrace this project and contribute your outstanding papers to this Special Issue.

Prof. Dr. Enzo Berardesca
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • materials and ingredient research related to cosmetics
  • therapeutic options for skin, hair and body care
  • product formulations and ingredients
  • cosmetic olfactory research developments
  • technologies in cosmetic product development
  • testing of skin and hair products
  • toxicological studies of cosmetic products
  • in vivo and in vitro testing of cosmetic products
  • pure and applied research involved in skin, hair and body cosmetics
  • analytical chemistry of essential components involved in cosmetic product formulations
  • biomedicine research on biologically active components
  • regulatory and ethical issues in cosmetic research
  • dermatology, microbiology, anatomy, physiology, immunology and biochemistry of the skin
  • facial rejuvenation, laser therapy
  • cosmetic surgery and related medicine techniques

Benefits of Publishing in a Special Issue

  • Ease of navigation: Grouping papers by topic helps scholars navigate broad scope journals more efficiently.
  • Greater discoverability: Special Issues support the reach and impact of scientific research. Articles in Special Issues are more discoverable and cited more frequently.
  • Expansion of research network: Special Issues facilitate connections among authors, fostering scientific collaborations.
  • External promotion: Articles in Special Issues are often promoted through the journal's social media, increasing their visibility.
  • e-Book format: Special Issues with more than 10 articles can be published as dedicated e-books, ensuring wide and rapid dissemination.

Further information on MDPI's Special Issue policies can be found here.

Published Papers (8 papers)

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Research

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14 pages, 2020 KiB  
Article
Unveiling the Biological Properties of Rosa rubiginosa L. Leaf Extract as a Bio-Functional Ingredient Based on 2D Cell-Based Models and In Vitro Assessments
by Sophia Letsiou, Aliki Tsakni, Dionysis Antonopoulos, Alexandros Tsoupras and Dimitra Houhoula
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020062 - 31 Mar 2025
Viewed by 367
Abstract
Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as [...] Read more.
Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as a bio-functional agent in cosmeceuticals or nutraceuticals. The Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract demonstrated strong scavenging activity and high phenolic content protection while also preventing DNA breakage. At the molecular level, ATP determination revealed that the Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf confers cell viability even under oxidative stress. Gene expression analysis uncovered its protective effects on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory response under oxidative stress induced by UVA irradiation. These findings suggest that Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract provides significant in vitro biological properties in cell-based models, offering new insights into its potential benefits and underscoring its bio-functional role. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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12 pages, 1818 KiB  
Article
Skin Cell Phototoxicity and Photoprotection Study of Agro-Derived Lignin and Nanocellulose
by Juliana Varella Cruz, Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Julia Salles Gava, Washington Luiz Esteves Magalhães, Danielle Palma de Oliveira, Daniela Morais Leme, Montserrat Mitjans and Maria Pilar Vinardell
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020061 - 28 Mar 2025
Viewed by 339
Abstract
Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy [...] Read more.
Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy and safety parameters, such as their photoprotection mechanisms and phototoxicity, need to be investigated. Therefore, two kraft lignin fractions, LE and R1, along with a kraft-bleached pulp CNF, were evaluated for their phototoxicity and photoprotection mechanisms, both using the HaCaT cell line (immortalized human keratinocytes) as the in vitro model. Phototoxicity assessment involved exposing cells to UVA radiation (4 J/cm2), with the subsequent comparison of cell viability between irradiated and non-irradiated samples. ROS quantification was performed using a 2′,7′-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCF-DA) probe, with fluorescence intensity measurements, and was then used to evaluate the photoprotection effect. The results demonstrated that both LE and R1 exhibited concentration-dependent increases in phototoxicity, whereas CNF showed no phototoxic effects under the conditions tested. For photoprotection, LE, R1, and CNF reduced UV-induced ROS production, a result which could be associated with antioxidant properties in the case of the lignin fractions. These findings suggest that both lignin fractions and CNF hold promise for use in renewable and sustainable cosmetic formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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13 pages, 3383 KiB  
Article
Clinical Efficacy of Adiponectin-Stimulating Peptide on UV-Induced Skin Damage
by Yongwoo Kim, Seokjeong Yoon, Sungwoo Kim, Yeonjae Kim, Sekyoo Jeong and Hyun-jung Kim
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020054 - 18 Mar 2025
Viewed by 439
Abstract
Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro [...] Read more.
Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro and ex vivo human skin explant models. A double-blind, randomized, comparator placebo-controlled study was performed to confirm clinical efficacy. After irradiation with 50 mJ/cm2 of UVB, a UV-induced decrease in adiponectin expression and an increase in inflammatory cytokines in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were prevented by the PTHD-12 treatment test peptide. Mitigation of cellular senescence and senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) expressions induced by UVB (50 mJ/cm2) exposure were also mitigated by the post-treatment of PTHD-12, which was also observed in an ex vivo human skin explant model. The restoration of filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1 protein expression in a cultured human skin explant was observed. A clinical study further confirmed that the restoration of UVB-induced skin damage, represented by increased skin redness and trans-epidermal water loss, was accelerated by the use of test peptide PTHD-12-containing products. These results suggest that targeting adiponectin may be a plausible strategy for the development of anti-aging ingredients. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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16 pages, 4614 KiB  
Article
Production and Characterization of Semi-Solid Formulations for the Delivery of the Cosmetic Peptide Palmitoyl-GHK
by Valentyn Dzyhovskyi, Federico Santamaria, Erika Marzola, Leda Montesi, Irene Donelli, Stefano Manfredini, Remo Guerrini and Elisabetta Esposito
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020050 - 13 Mar 2025
Viewed by 736
Abstract
In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. [...] Read more.
In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. The so-called “ethosomes” were evaluated as nanovesicular systems constituted of phosphatidylcholine, organized in vesicles, ethanol, and water. In addition, semi-solid systems were produced and characterized, namely an organogel based on phosphatidylcholine, isopropyl palmitate, and water, a gel based on Poloxamer 407, and the poloxamer organogel, created by combining organogel and Poloxamer gel. To make the ethosomal dispersions suitable for skin application, xanthan gum was added as a gelling agent. Studies were therefore carried out on semi-solid formulations to determine (i) the spreadability, a key factor that influences various aspects of a topical/transdermal formulation, (ii) the occlusive factor, important to guarantee good effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product, and finally, (iii) the hydrating power, to study the effect of a formulation applied to the skin. A formulation study enabled the selection of the most suitable formulations for the incorporation of the active ingredient of interest. Palmitoyl-GHK was found to be soluble both in ethosomes and in the poloxamer organogel. In vitro studies were therefore conducted to evaluate the release kinetics of Palmitoyl-GHK from the formulations, via Franz cells. The qualitative–quantitative analysis, through analytical HPLC, highlighted that the active ingredient is released more slowly from semi-solid formulations compared to vesicular systems; in particular, the presence of poloxamer allows a controlled release of the peptide. Further studies will be necessary to verify the anti-aging efficacy of formulations containing the peptide. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Review

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24 pages, 774 KiB  
Review
New Perspectives on Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide as Inorganic UV Filters: Advances, Safety, Challenges, and Environmental Considerations
by Stephany Mayumi Araki and André Rolim Baby
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020077 - 11 Apr 2025
Viewed by 790
Abstract
Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a primary risk factor for various skin disorders, including erythema, sunburn, and skin cancer. Sunscreens containing UV filters, categorized as organic or inorganic, are widely utilized to mitigate these effects. Among inorganic UV filters, titanium dioxide (TiO [...] Read more.
Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a primary risk factor for various skin disorders, including erythema, sunburn, and skin cancer. Sunscreens containing UV filters, categorized as organic or inorganic, are widely utilized to mitigate these effects. Among inorganic UV filters, titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) are prominently used due to their favorable safety and achievable broad-spectrum protection profiles. This review focuses on the properties, safety, and efficacy of TiO2 and ZnO in sunscreens, emphasizing their mechanisms of action, photostability, and impacts on human health and the environment. Key factors influencing their performance include particle size, surface coatings, and formulation pH. Despite recognized advantages, concerns about toxicity—particularly related to nanoparticle penetration and reactive oxygen species generation—highlight the need for robust safety assessments. Additionally, the environmental impacts of inorganic UV filters, including bioaccumulation and effects on aquatic ecosystems, warrant consideration. Advances in nanoparticle synthesis, bioactive compound integration, and environmentally friendly formulations offer pathways to enhance sunscreen efficacy and safety, providing opportunities for innovation in photoprotection. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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20 pages, 1265 KiB  
Review
On the Key Role of Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Emulsion-Based Cosmetics
by Matteo Franceschini, Fabio Pizzetti and Filippo Rossi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020076 - 11 Apr 2025
Viewed by 1488
Abstract
Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the [...] Read more.
Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the use of stabilizers that ensure a long lifetime under different conditions. In this framework a key role is related to rheology modifiers, which include all those raw ingredients added to achieve, among others, desirable inflow characteristics that would not be possible to gain in their absence. In this review, strong attention was dedicated to different polymers and formulation strategies to understand the key role of these ingredients, widely used in emulsion-based cosmetics formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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27 pages, 1232 KiB  
Review
Physicochemical Properties and Composition of Peristomal Skin Care Products: A Narrative Review
by Agnieszka Kulawik-Pióro, Małgorzata Miastkowska, Katarzyna Bialik-Wąs, Piotr Zelga and Anna Piotrowska
Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020074 - 9 Apr 2025
Viewed by 450
Abstract
People who have gone through stoma surgery face different problems and difficulties every day, although most of these issues improve significantly with time. The quality of life of ostomy patients has been proven to be strictly related to self-care ability. So, it is [...] Read more.
People who have gone through stoma surgery face different problems and difficulties every day, although most of these issues improve significantly with time. The quality of life of ostomy patients has been proven to be strictly related to self-care ability. So, it is essential for patients to properly maintain the ostomy site, including proper daily self-care and regeneration of the skin around the stoma, to avoid stoma-related complications. This review was undertaken using the PRISMA (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analysis) guidelines. The main aim of the literature review was to analyse and present the characteristics of medical products used in ostomy care currently existing on the market. The intervention and management of stoma problems with appliances and accessories are also summarised. This literature review is limited to a critical analysis of the scientific and professional literature and informational materials developed by manufacturers of stoma accessories. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Other

Jump to: Research, Review

17 pages, 2020 KiB  
Systematic Review
Berry Fruit Extracts as Topical Cosmeceuticals for Skin Health Applications: A Systematic Review
by Filipe Silveira Azevedo, Allan Rodrigues Pires, Mary Ann Lila, Giuseppe Valacchi, Roberta Targino Hoskin, Mariaurea Matias Sarandy, Rômulo Dias Novaes and Reggiani Vilela Goncalves
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030087 - 23 Apr 2025
Viewed by 362
Abstract
Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which [...] Read more.
Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which has been linked to their health-relevant properties. To gather information on the potential of berries for treating skin inflammatory diseases, this systematic review was conducted following PRISMA guidelines (PROSPERO registration number CRD 42024549567), based on studies from PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Embase. It focused on preclinical murine model studies, with bias and methodological quality assessed using SYRCLE’s RoB tool. Studies showed evidence that berries have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties due to compounds like anthocyanins, cyanidins, polyphenols, and catechins. Berry exposure reduced oxidative stress markers, such as malondialdehyde, carbonylated proteins, nitric oxide, 8-OHdG, and pyrimidine dimers. This stress reduction was associated with NF-κB and COX-2 pathway downregulation, lower IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α, and MAPK, and increased IL-10. Morphological outcomes included increased collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans and reduced metalloproteinases. Bias analysis revealed a low risk, suggesting reliable studies. Berry treatments improved wound healing and extracellular matrix (ECM) production, supporting their potential in pharmaceutical topical formulation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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