Cosmetics

Research

12 pages, 375 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Analytical Framework for the Selective Extraction and Determination of Nine Multiclass Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals from Haircare Products

by Ilaria Neri, Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Giacomo Russo, Teresa Di Serio, Lucia Grumetto and Sonia Laneri

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030116 - 3 Jun 2025

Viewed by 300

Abstract

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care [...] Read more.

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care products. We set up a chromatographic method to simultaneously assess the occurrence of nine endocrine disruptors and to verify the compliance with mandatory regulations concerning the potential fraudulent additions of preservatives. A total of twenty-six haircare products were collected and analyzed. The limits of detection ranged from 0.052 μg mL⁻¹ to 1.744 μg mL⁻¹, while the limits of quantification ranged from 0.175 μg mL⁻¹ to 5.815 μg mL⁻¹, respectively. Analyte recovery was between 66% and 87%, demonstrating the accuracy of the method in these target formulations. Even if the recovered quantity of parabens did not exceed the legal limits, the analysis detected bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in 2 real samples and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) in all 26 samples, with concentrations ranging from 151.01 μg/100 g to 1042.58 μg/100 g. Although the European Union regulates the quantity of potentially harmful compounds in consumer goods, repeated use of certain products, such as haircare formulations, could result in chronic exposure to several endocrine disruptors. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 1014 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Design of a Novel DNA-FISH Probe for the Rapid Identification of Candida albicans in Cosmetic Products

by Patrícia Branco, Margarida Nunes, Paula Pereira and Elisabete Muchagato Mauricio

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030115 - 3 Jun 2025

Viewed by 294

Abstract

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise [...] Read more.

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise microbial identification by targeting specific RNA or DNA sequences with fluorescent probes. In this study, a novel DNA-FISH probe was developed for the detection of Candida albicans in cosmetic formulations. The probe’s specificity was assessed in silico and experimentally using flow cytometry (flow-FISH) on C. albicans and non-target microorganisms, including Pichia kudriavzevii, commonly known as Candida krusei, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Wickerhamomyces anomalus, Escherichia coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. The probe exhibited 98.9% hybridization efficiency with C. albicans, yielding a fluorescence intensity (FI) of 25,000 (a.u.), while non-target yeasts demonstrated minimal hybridization (4.7%, 2.3%, and 1.9% for C. krusei, S. cerevisiae, and W. anomalus, respectively) and bacteria showed negligible FI. Additionally, the probe’s applicability was evaluated in a tonic formulation, where C. albicans’ hybridization efficiency was slightly reduced to 88.4%, suggesting that formulation components may influence probe performance. Nevertheless, the probe maintained high specificity and efficiency without formamide, a toxic reagent commonly used in FISH. These findings highlight the potential of FISH probes for rapid, accurate, and safe microbial detection, offering a valuable tool for microbiological quality control in the cosmetics industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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19 pages, 2591 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Mineral Water–Plant Extract Combinations as Potential Anti-Aging Ingredients: An In Vitro Evaluation

by Carolina P. Gomes, Ana S. Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Tayse F. F. da Silveira, Rita Palmeira de Oliveira, Maria José Alves, Paula Plasencia and Ana Palmeira de Oliveira

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030113 - 28 May 2025

Viewed by 565

Abstract

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus [...] Read more.

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus L., Vaccinium myrtillus, Cistus ladanifer and Thymus x citriodorus) as bioactive ingredients. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method. Cellular biocompatibility was evaluated in fibroblasts (L929) and macrophages (RAW 264.7). Skin-repairing and anti-senescence properties were evaluated in L929 cells through the scratch-wound method and β-galactosidase assay. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) was quantified using a commercial kit, and lipopolysaccharide-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) were quantified using a fluorescent probe (H₂DCFDA) in RAW 264.7. The results highlighted the beneficial impact of extracts combined with NMWs. An increase in antioxidant capacity of up to 90% was observed in mixtures comprising Ficus carica L., compared with NMWs alone. In contrast, mixtures with Cistus ladanifer showed promising anti-aging potential, with a 40% decrease in senescent cells and a 33% ROS reduction. Rubus idaeus L. extract produced an increase in cell migration capacity (up to 50%), depending on the NMW. This study highlights the potential synergism of natural ingredients with plant extracts for anti-aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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16 pages, 1793 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles, and Rheology of Two Photoprotective Formulations with Natural Extracts: A Commercial Product Versus a Vegan Test Formulation

by Karine Campos Nunes, Bruna Lendzion Alves, Rafaela Said dos Santos, Lennon Alonso de Araújo, Rosângela Bergamasco, Marcos Luciano Bruschi, Tânia Ueda-Nakamura, Sueli de Oliveira Silva Lautenschlager and Celso Vataru Nakamura

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030112 - 27 May 2025

Viewed by 456

Abstract

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, [...] Read more.

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream^® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. The SPF values of P1 and P2 obtained by in vitro tests were 25.21 and 12.10, respectively. They also exhibited pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, which could contribute to better spreadability and form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The comparison of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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12 pages, 1339 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Two-Photon Microscopy for the Investigation of Morphological and Quantitative Changes in Skin Chrono- and Photo-Aging

by Stefano Bighetti, Chiara Rovati, Luca Bettolini, Mariachiara Arisi, Mariateresa Rossi, Cosetta Ravelli, Sara Rovaris, Marina Venturini, Stefania Mitola and Piergiacomo Calzavara-Pinton

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030111 - 26 May 2025

Viewed by 352

Abstract

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study [...] Read more.

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study examined skin biopsy samples from three Caucasian male subjects with different levels of UV exposure, aiming to evaluate the effectiveness of two-photon microscopy (2PM) and Second Harmonic Generation (SHG) in visualizing and quantifying structural changes associated with skin aging. The samples were analyzed using 2PM to assess the structure and density of collagen and elastin fibers within the ECM. Integrated optical density (IOD) and the SHG-to-Autofluorescence Aging Index of the Dermis (SAAID) were used for quantitative analysis. Results: This study revealed a significant decrease in collagen density and increased disorganization in the ECM with age. Photo-exposed skin showed a more pronounced degradation of collagen and a higher increase in elastin content compared to non-photo-exposed skin. The average IOD for collagen was notably lower in elderly subjects compared to younger subjects, with a marked decrease in chronically photo-exposed skin. Discussion: The SAAID values indicated a substantial impact of photoaging, with lower scores in photo-exposed elderly skin compared to non-exposed skin. Conclusions: In conclusion, 2PM and SHG microscopy were effective in visualizing and quantifying age- and UV-induced skin remodeling, providing valuable insights into the distinct mechanisms driving intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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13 pages, 981 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating the Cosmetic Efficacy of Topical Micrococcus luteus Q24 Probiotic Balm: A Pilot Study in Healthy Adults

by Abigail L. Voss, Stephanie A. Mattison, Sonali S. Sali, John D. F. Hale and Rohit Jain

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030105 - 22 May 2025

Viewed by 617

Abstract

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects of prebiotics and functional actives on M. luteus Q24 were evaluated, identifying oil-based actives, including vitamin E and pomegranate seed oil, that significantly boosted bacterial growth compared to oatmeal, the sole effective prebiotic tested. Subsequently, a pilot cosmetic trial assessed two M. luteus Q24-enriched balms on healthy adults utilising a cutting-edge AI (Artificial Intelligence) driven skin analyser device. Balm B significantly reduced keratin levels, wrinkles, and pore size, and increased hydration, while Balm A effectively reduced spots and keratin. After 4 days of application, Balm A showed mean percentage reductions of 80% in pores, 20% in spots, 60% in wrinkles, and 100% in keratin scores, while Balm B exhibited mean percentage reductions of 100% in pores, 50% in spots, 67% in wrinkles, and 80% in keratin, with a 100% increase in hydration score. Both balms demonstrated compatibility and efficacy, highlighting the potential of M. luteus Q24 in improving skin parameters. These findings suggest that balms optimise the benefits of skin-specific probiotics for microbiome-friendly skincare. Future research with larger, placebo-controlled trials is needed to substantiate these preliminary findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 657 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Microemulsions Loaded with Plinia cauliflora Extract and Fractions for Topical Application Against Cutaneous Mycosis

by Rodrigo Sorrechia, Camila Cristina Baccetti Medeiros, João Vitor Carvalho Constantini, Rafaela Regina Fantatto, Bárbara Regina Kapp, Nathália Ferreira Fregonezi, Ana Melero, Ana Marisa Fusco-Almeida, Marlus Chorilli and Rosemeire Cristina Linhari Rodrigues Pietro

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030103 - 15 May 2025

Viewed by 466

Abstract

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have [...] Read more.

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have been used in traditional medicine, which has been scientifically proved. The differential in this study was the use of leaves to obtain the ethanolic extract and its fractions and with incorporation in microemulsions that can increase the activity, promoting greater availability of active components in therapeutic targets. Candida glabrata has been very prominent in nosocomial infections and our results were very promising, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration of 4.88 μg/mL for the extract and about a 4-fold decrease with its microemulsion reaching 1.22 μg/mL; for the dermatophytic fungus Trichophyton rubrum, this decreased 2-fold, from 156.25 μg/mL to 78.12 μg/mL. The antioxidant activity was also studied, showing the best results for the extract at 25.6 μg/mL and lastly, the samples were not toxic when the Galleria mellonella model was used. Thus, the results demonstrate the activity of the extract, and that the incorporation was able to increase the antifungal activity in a safe, non-toxic manner, making it possible to provide a therapeutic option for these fluconazole-resistant microorganisms. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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23 pages, 6860 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetic Potential of Haberlea rhodopensis Extracts and Extracellular Vesicles in Human Fibroblast Cells

by Milena Georgieva, Bela Vasileva, Penyo Ivanov, Kamelia Hristova-Panusheva, Tsvetelina Paunova-Krasteva, Ivan Lesov, Zlatina Gospodinova, Natalia Krasteva, George Miloshev and Vasil Georgiev

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030090 - 1 May 2025

Viewed by 1500

Abstract

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological [...] Read more.

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological and functional changes. This study investigates the impact of Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts, native and enriched with EVs, on key cellular processes, including morphology, mitochondrial dynamics, lysosomal activity, gene expression, and genotoxicity in human dermal fibroblasts. The extracellular vesicles were identified in terms of shape, size, and morphology using dynamic light scattering, negative staining and observation under a transmission electron microscope. A comprehensive in vitro analysis was conducted utilizing light microscopy to assess cellular morphology and lysosomal mass, fluorescence microscopy for actin cytoskeletal organization, mitochondrial integrity, and nuclear morphology, and gene expression profiling for markers associated with collagen synthesis (COL1A1, COL3A1), senescence (CDKN1A), and oxidative stress response (NFE2L2). Additionally, cell cycle progression was evaluated, and genotoxicity was assessed using the neutral comet assay. Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and EVs were found to preserve fibroblast morphology, enhance mitochondrial mass, and upregulate collagen-related gene expression. These effects were concentration-dependent. The extracts exhibited biocompatibility with minimal genotoxic effects, indicating their potential as safe bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation. The findings suggest that Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and their enrichment with extracellular vesicles hold promise for cosmetic and dermatological applications, particularly in enhancing collagen production, preserving cellular integrity, and mitigating age-related alterations in skin fibroblasts. Further studies are warranted to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms and optimize formulation strategies for clinical translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unveiling the Biological Properties of Rosa rubiginosa L. Leaf Extract as a Bio-Functional Ingredient Based on 2D Cell-Based Models and In Vitro Assessments

by Sophia Letsiou, Aliki Tsakni, Dionysis Antonopoulos, Alexandros Tsoupras and Dimitra Houhoula

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020062 - 31 Mar 2025

Viewed by 624

Abstract

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as [...] Read more.

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as a bio-functional agent in cosmeceuticals or nutraceuticals. The Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract demonstrated strong scavenging activity and high phenolic content protection while also preventing DNA breakage. At the molecular level, ATP determination revealed that the Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf confers cell viability even under oxidative stress. Gene expression analysis uncovered its protective effects on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory response under oxidative stress induced by UVA irradiation. These findings suggest that Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract provides significant in vitro biological properties in cell-based models, offering new insights into its potential benefits and underscoring its bio-functional role. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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12 pages, 1818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Cell Phototoxicity and Photoprotection Study of Agro-Derived Lignin and Nanocellulose

by Juliana Varella Cruz, Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Julia Salles Gava, Washington Luiz Esteves Magalhães, Danielle Palma de Oliveira, Daniela Morais Leme, Montserrat Mitjans and Maria Pilar Vinardell

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020061 - 28 Mar 2025

Viewed by 515

Abstract

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy [...] Read more.

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy and safety parameters, such as their photoprotection mechanisms and phototoxicity, need to be investigated. Therefore, two kraft lignin fractions, LE and R1, along with a kraft-bleached pulp CNF, were evaluated for their phototoxicity and photoprotection mechanisms, both using the HaCaT cell line (immortalized human keratinocytes) as the in vitro model. Phototoxicity assessment involved exposing cells to UVA radiation (4 J/cm²), with the subsequent comparison of cell viability between irradiated and non-irradiated samples. ROS quantification was performed using a 2′,7′-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCF-DA) probe, with fluorescence intensity measurements, and was then used to evaluate the photoprotection effect. The results demonstrated that both LE and R1 exhibited concentration-dependent increases in phototoxicity, whereas CNF showed no phototoxic effects under the conditions tested. For photoprotection, LE, R1, and CNF reduced UV-induced ROS production, a result which could be associated with antioxidant properties in the case of the lignin fractions. These findings suggest that both lignin fractions and CNF hold promise for use in renewable and sustainable cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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13 pages, 3383 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical Efficacy of Adiponectin-Stimulating Peptide on UV-Induced Skin Damage

by Yongwoo Kim, Seokjeong Yoon, Sungwoo Kim, Yeonjae Kim, Sekyoo Jeong and Hyun-jung Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020054 - 18 Mar 2025

Viewed by 642

Abstract

Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro [...] Read more.

Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro and ex vivo human skin explant models. A double-blind, randomized, comparator placebo-controlled study was performed to confirm clinical efficacy. After irradiation with 50 mJ/cm² of UVB, a UV-induced decrease in adiponectin expression and an increase in inflammatory cytokines in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were prevented by the PTHD-12 treatment test peptide. Mitigation of cellular senescence and senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) expressions induced by UVB (50 mJ/cm²) exposure were also mitigated by the post-treatment of PTHD-12, which was also observed in an ex vivo human skin explant model. The restoration of filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1 protein expression in a cultured human skin explant was observed. A clinical study further confirmed that the restoration of UVB-induced skin damage, represented by increased skin redness and trans-epidermal water loss, was accelerated by the use of test peptide PTHD-12-containing products. These results suggest that targeting adiponectin may be a plausible strategy for the development of anti-aging ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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16 pages, 4614 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Production and Characterization of Semi-Solid Formulations for the Delivery of the Cosmetic Peptide Palmitoyl-GHK

by Valentyn Dzyhovskyi, Federico Santamaria, Erika Marzola, Leda Montesi, Irene Donelli, Stefano Manfredini, Remo Guerrini and Elisabetta Esposito

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020050 - 13 Mar 2025

Viewed by 1009

Abstract

In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. [...] Read more.

In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. The so-called “ethosomes” were evaluated as nanovesicular systems constituted of phosphatidylcholine, organized in vesicles, ethanol, and water. In addition, semi-solid systems were produced and characterized, namely an organogel based on phosphatidylcholine, isopropyl palmitate, and water, a gel based on Poloxamer 407, and the poloxamer organogel, created by combining organogel and Poloxamer gel. To make the ethosomal dispersions suitable for skin application, xanthan gum was added as a gelling agent. Studies were therefore carried out on semi-solid formulations to determine (i) the spreadability, a key factor that influences various aspects of a topical/transdermal formulation, (ii) the occlusive factor, important to guarantee good effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product, and finally, (iii) the hydrating power, to study the effect of a formulation applied to the skin. A formulation study enabled the selection of the most suitable formulations for the incorporation of the active ingredient of interest. Palmitoyl-GHK was found to be soluble both in ethosomes and in the poloxamer organogel. In vitro studies were therefore conducted to evaluate the release kinetics of Palmitoyl-GHK from the formulations, via Franz cells. The qualitative–quantitative analysis, through analytical HPLC, highlighted that the active ingredient is released more slowly from semi-solid formulations compared to vesicular systems; in particular, the presence of poloxamer allows a controlled release of the peptide. Further studies will be necessary to verify the anti-aging efficacy of formulations containing the peptide. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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Review

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17 pages, 650 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Epidemiology of Acne in the Current Era: Trends and Clinical Implications

by Dumitrița Lenuța Guguluș, Dan Vâță, Ioana Adriana Popescu, Adriana Ionela Pătrașcu, Ioana Alina Halip, Mădălina Mocanu and Laura Gheucă Solovăstru

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030106 - 22 May 2025

Viewed by 803

Abstract

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current [...] Read more.

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current global prevalence is approximately 9.4%, reflecting its continued relevance as a public health concern. While early epidemiological studies were predominantly conducted in the United States and United Kingdom, recent data from diverse geographic regions highlight the need for updated, globally representative research. The Global Burden of Disease (GBD) initiative has recognized acne as a condition with a substantial impact on disability-adjusted life years (DALYs), underscoring its contribution to both physical and psychological morbidity. This review aims to synthesize current epidemiological findings, identify high-risk populations, and explore intrinsic and extrinsic factors influencing disease distribution and progression. A deeper understanding of acne’s epidemiology is essential to inform prevention strategies and improve outcomes in dermatological care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 507 KiB

Open AccessReview

Optimizing Skin Quality via AI-Enhanced Physical Activity

by Niki Tertipi, Eleni Sfyri, Vasiliki Sofia Grech, Vasiliki Kefala and Efstathios Rallis

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030104 - 20 May 2025

Viewed by 1075

Abstract

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending [...] Read more.

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending on skin type, age, fitness level, and environmental exposures. Recent advances in artificial intelligence (AI) offer new opportunities for tailoring exercise programs to meet individual skin health needs. Wearable sensors and smart fitness devices provide real-time data on physiological responses (e.g., heart rate, sweat rate, and oxidative stress) and environmental parameters (e.g., UV exposure and pollution levels). AI algorithms process this data to create dynamic, adaptive exercise routines designed to maximize skin benefits while minimizing potential harm (e.g., exercise-induced oxidative stress in sensitive skin types). This review synthesizes the current evidence on the skin benefits of exercise while exploring the emerging role of AI-driven personalized physical activity as a novel tool in cosmetic dermatology. Integrating AI into fitness planning, personalized, non-invasive skincare strategies may complement traditional topical and procedural approaches, representing a step forward in precision dermatology. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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24 pages, 774 KiB

Open AccessReview

New Perspectives on Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide as Inorganic UV Filters: Advances, Safety, Challenges, and Environmental Considerations

by Stephany Mayumi Araki and André Rolim Baby

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020077 - 11 Apr 2025

Viewed by 2568

Abstract

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a primary risk factor for various skin disorders, including erythema, sunburn, and skin cancer. Sunscreens containing UV filters, categorized as organic or inorganic, are widely utilized to mitigate these effects. Among inorganic UV filters, titanium dioxide (TiO [...] Read more.

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a primary risk factor for various skin disorders, including erythema, sunburn, and skin cancer. Sunscreens containing UV filters, categorized as organic or inorganic, are widely utilized to mitigate these effects. Among inorganic UV filters, titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) are prominently used due to their favorable safety and achievable broad-spectrum protection profiles. This review focuses on the properties, safety, and efficacy of TiO₂ and ZnO in sunscreens, emphasizing their mechanisms of action, photostability, and impacts on human health and the environment. Key factors influencing their performance include particle size, surface coatings, and formulation pH. Despite recognized advantages, concerns about toxicity—particularly related to nanoparticle penetration and reactive oxygen species generation—highlight the need for robust safety assessments. Additionally, the environmental impacts of inorganic UV filters, including bioaccumulation and effects on aquatic ecosystems, warrant consideration. Advances in nanoparticle synthesis, bioactive compound integration, and environmentally friendly formulations offer pathways to enhance sunscreen efficacy and safety, providing opportunities for innovation in photoprotection. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 1265 KiB

Open AccessReview

On the Key Role of Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Emulsion-Based Cosmetics

by Matteo Franceschini, Fabio Pizzetti and Filippo Rossi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020076 - 11 Apr 2025

Viewed by 2449

Abstract

Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the [...] Read more.

Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the use of stabilizers that ensure a long lifetime under different conditions. In this framework a key role is related to rheology modifiers, which include all those raw ingredients added to achieve, among others, desirable inflow characteristics that would not be possible to gain in their absence. In this review, strong attention was dedicated to different polymers and formulation strategies to understand the key role of these ingredients, widely used in emulsion-based cosmetics formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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27 pages, 1232 KiB

Open AccessReview

Physicochemical Properties and Composition of Peristomal Skin Care Products: A Narrative Review

by Agnieszka Kulawik-Pióro, Małgorzata Miastkowska, Katarzyna Bialik-Wąs, Piotr Zelga and Anna Piotrowska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020074 - 9 Apr 2025

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Abstract

People who have gone through stoma surgery face different problems and difficulties every day, although most of these issues improve significantly with time. The quality of life of ostomy patients has been proven to be strictly related to self-care ability. So, it is [...] Read more.

People who have gone through stoma surgery face different problems and difficulties every day, although most of these issues improve significantly with time. The quality of life of ostomy patients has been proven to be strictly related to self-care ability. So, it is essential for patients to properly maintain the ostomy site, including proper daily self-care and regeneration of the skin around the stoma, to avoid stoma-related complications. This review was undertaken using the PRISMA (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analysis) guidelines. The main aim of the literature review was to analyse and present the characteristics of medical products used in ostomy care currently existing on the market. The intervention and management of stoma problems with appliances and accessories are also summarised. This literature review is limited to a critical analysis of the scientific and professional literature and informational materials developed by manufacturers of stoma accessories. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

Berry Fruit Extracts as Topical Cosmeceuticals for Skin Health Applications: A Systematic Review

by Filipe Silveira Azevedo, Allan Rodrigues Pires, Mary Ann Lila, Giuseppe Valacchi, Roberta Targino Hoskin, Mariaurea Matias Sarandy, Rômulo Dias Novaes and Reggiani Vilela Goncalves

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030087 - 23 Apr 2025

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Abstract

Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which [...] Read more.

Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which has been linked to their health-relevant properties. To gather information on the potential of berries for treating skin inflammatory diseases, this systematic review was conducted following PRISMA guidelines (PROSPERO registration number CRD 42024549567), based on studies from PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Embase. It focused on preclinical murine model studies, with bias and methodological quality assessed using SYRCLE’s RoB tool. Studies showed evidence that berries have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties due to compounds like anthocyanins, cyanidins, polyphenols, and catechins. Berry exposure reduced oxidative stress markers, such as malondialdehyde, carbonylated proteins, nitric oxide, 8-OHdG, and pyrimidine dimers. This stress reduction was associated with NF-κB and COX-2 pathway downregulation, lower IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α, and MAPK, and increased IL-10. Morphological outcomes included increased collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans and reduced metalloproteinases. Bias analysis revealed a low risk, suggesting reliable studies. Berry treatments improved wound healing and extracellular matrix (ECM) production, supporting their potential in pharmaceutical topical formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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