Special Issue "Selected Papers from ISBS/SICC 1st Joint International Congress"


A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (15 March 2014)

Special Issue Editor

Guest Editor
Prof. Dr. Enzo Berardesca
San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, Via Chianesi 53, 00144 Rome, Italy
Website: http://www.berardesca.it/http://www.berardesca.it/
E-Mail: berardesca@berardesca.it
Interests: dermatology; skin care; contact dermatitis; cosmetic efficacy; cosmetic formulation; barrier function; skin irritation

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Skin ageing is a complex phenomenon resulting from different pathophysiological mechanisms. Its investigation, as well as the development of new actives and formulations, is a fascinating and stimulating area of research. This unique meeting will gather scientists from ISBS and several European Cosmetic Scientist Societies to develop, discuss and investigate new approaches to the understanding, the objective quantification and the development of new strategies for prevention, diagnosis and treatment. The main topics will cover skin physiology and pathology of ageing, new active ingredients and cosmetic formulations, substantiation of efficacy claims and new non invasive technology to investigate and quantify skin aging and cosmetic treatment of this condition, legal and regulatory aspects.

Prof. Dr. Enzo Berardesca
Guest Editor


Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. Papers will be published continuously (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are refereed through a peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed Open Access quarterly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. For the first couple of issues the Article Processing Charge (APC) will be waived for well-prepared manuscripts. English correction and/or formatting fees of 250 CHF (Swiss Francs) will be charged in certain cases for those articles accepted for publication that require extensive additional formatting and/or English corrections.


  • cosmetic ingredients
  • skin aging
  • claim substantiation
  • skin physiology
  • active ingredients
  • noninvasive techniques
  • efficacy measurements

Published Papers (5 papers)

Cosmetics 2014, 1(2), 75-81; doi:10.3390/cosmetics1020075
Received: 19 December 2013; in revised form: 21 March 2014 / Accepted: 31 March 2014 / Published: 8 April 2014
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Cosmetics 2014, 1(1), 51-60; doi:10.3390/cosmetics1010051
Received: 31 December 2013; in revised form: 10 March 2014 / Accepted: 11 March 2014 / Published: 20 March 2014
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Cosmetics 2014, 1(1), 44-50; doi:10.3390/cosmetics1010044
Received: 12 January 2014; in revised form: 24 February 2014 / Accepted: 24 February 2014 / Published: 4 March 2014
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Cosmetics 2014, 1(1), 37-43; doi:10.3390/cosmetics1010037
Received: 12 January 2014; in revised form: 14 February 2014 / Accepted: 14 February 2014 / Published: 4 March 2014
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Cosmetics 2014, 1(1), 29-36; doi:10.3390/cosmetics1010029
Received: 30 December 2013; in revised form: 25 January 2014 / Accepted: 27 January 2014 / Published: 14 February 2014
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Planned Papers

The below list represents only planned manuscripts. Some of these manuscripts have not been received by the Editorial Office yet. Papers submitted to MDPI journals are subject to peer-review.

Title: L-ergothioneine protects mtDNA of skin cells from damages induced by UVA
Authors: Pasikowska Monika 1, Sołyga Aleksandra2, Marczak Barbara1, Bazela Karolina1 and Eris Irena 1
1 Dr Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories, Centre for Science and Research, Pulawska 107a, 02595 Warsaw, Poland
2 Institute of Genetics and Biotechnology, Faculty of Biology, University of Warsaw, Pawinskiego 5a, 02106 Warsaw, Poland
Abstract: Many changes related to aging at the cellular level may be due to physiological condition of mitochondria. One of the most common damage of mtDNA is so called ‘common deletion’ referred to deletion of 4977 base pairs. In the skin cells this phenomena probably is caused by oxidative damages of mtDNA induced by ultraviolet. Present study was aimed to evaluate protective effect of L-ergothioneine to mtDNA damages in skin cells exposed to UVA. L-ergothioneine, a non-protein amino-acid, is recognized as a potent antioxidant.
Presence of ‘common deletion’ was tested in fibroblasts derived from human donors. Cells were growing in a presence of L-ergothioneine and irradiated with UVA. Presence of “common deletion” was detected by polymerase chain reaction.
Our study showed that fibroblasts incubated with 20 M L-ergothioneine and irradiated with UVA did not exhibit mtDNA ‘common deletion’ suggesting that L-ergothioneine may prevent from formation of this particular damage in mtDNA. L-ergothioneine could act as an effective skin care and anti-photo-aging ingredient.
Keywords: L-ergothioneine; common deletion; mitochondria; photoaging

Type of Paper: Article
Title: In vivo non-invasive evaluation of actinic keratosis response to mal-pdt by reflectance confocal microscopy
Authors: Venturini Marina, Zanca Arianna, Calzavara-Pinton Piergiacomo
Affiliation: Department of Dermatology, University of Brescia, Brescia, Italy
Abstract: In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is a non-invasive tool for real-time imaging of epidermis and superficial dermis in vivo at high resolution that has been previously reported to facilitate the in vivo evaluation of skin lesions, including actinic keratoses (AKs). The aim of this study was to investigate the use of in vivo RCM in evaluating AK response to MAL-PDT. A total of 10 biopsy-proven AKs in 10 outpatients were treated. MAL-PDT was performed with a MAL cream, applied for 3 hours under an occlusive and opaque dressing prior to illumination from a LED source (635±18 nm; 37 J/cm2). All lesions received two treatment sessions 7 days apart. RCM investigation was performed before and after PDT with a Vivascope 1500Ò microscopy. RCM-guided punch biopsies was taken at 3 months in all patients for histopathological examination of the treated area. At 3 months follow-up, in vivo RCM evaluation identified complete response in 7 lesions and partial response in 3 out of 10 lesions, detecting 2 residual AKs in subclinical form, missed by clinical examination. Histological analysis confirmed these results.
Keywords: actinic keratosis, in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy, non-invasive diagnosis, photodynamic therapy

Title: The Age Factor in the Cosmetic Management of Biophysical Skin Parameters
C. Cartigliani, A. Bonfigli, S. Brancato, L. Rigano
Affiliation: ISPE srl, Via Bruschetti, 1, 20125 Milan (Italy)
Abstract: In this study the correlation between basal data of skin hydration, elasticity and surface roughness and the age of volunteers has been investigated. Secondly, we analyzed the variations obtained at the end of the treatment with a cosmetic product in order to investigate the susceptibility to improvement of volunteers of different age groups. Data were collected during 6 years of activity in our testing laboratory based in Milan. We considered only measurements performed on the face of female population aged between 18 and 70 years old. Values were subdivided in age groups for each considered parameter and were statistically compared. As expected skin roughness increased and R2 decreased with ageing, while hydration values resulted to be higher in older women. This apparently unaccountable result is probably due to the fact that elderly women living in urban areas tend to pay more attention to their skin care, improving so effectively their skin hydration. The analysis of improvements induced by cosmetic treatments showed that, as regards skin hydration, women 61-70 years old were the most susceptible to improvement. However, considering skin roughness values, women over 50 years old seemed to react better to cosmetic treatment. As for skin elasticity, the highest improvement values were registered in women between 31 and 50 years old.
Key Words: age groups; biophysical skin properties; cosmetic treatment; susceptibility

Last update: 10 January 2014

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