Cosmetics

Research

13 pages, 8828 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Multispectral Imaging and OCT-Guided Precision Treatment of Rhinophyma with CO₂ and Dye Lasers: A Comprehensive Diagnostic and Therapeutic Approach

by Simone Amato, Steven Paul Nisticò, Alessandro Clementi, Giorgio Stabile, Fortunato Cassalia, Annunziata Dattola, Giuseppe Rizzuto and Giovanni Cannarozzo

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 221; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060221 - 13 Dec 2024

Viewed by 293

Abstract

Background/Objectives: Rhinophyma, an advanced form of rosacea, is characterized by significant nasal tissue enlargement and deformation, leading to aesthetic and psychosocial challenges. Traditional treatments are often invasive with variable outcomes, emphasizing the need for improved therapeutic approaches. This study evaluates the efficacy of [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: Rhinophyma, an advanced form of rosacea, is characterized by significant nasal tissue enlargement and deformation, leading to aesthetic and psychosocial challenges. Traditional treatments are often invasive with variable outcomes, emphasizing the need for improved therapeutic approaches. This study evaluates the efficacy of a dual-laser therapy (CO₂ and dye lasers) in treating rhinophyma. An innovative diagnostic algorithm using multispectral imaging guided treatment decisions, while Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT) was utilized to analyze post-treatment vascular and collagen changes. Methods: A prospective study was conducted involving 20 patients with rhinophyma. Multispectral imaging was used to guide the tailored application of CO₂ laser, dye laser, or both, depending on the predominant vascular or glandular components in the nasal tissue. Post-treatment analysis employed OCT to assess changes in vascular and collagen density, providing insights into the tissue modifications induced by laser therapy. Results: The treatment significantly reduced vascular density from 35,526.75 to 26,577.55 at 300 microns and from 46,916.25 to 35,509.25 at 500 microns. Collagen density decreased from 81.35 to 66.34. All reductions were statistically significant, with highly significant p-values. These findings highlight the dual-laser therapy’s effectiveness in addressing the pathological features of rhinophyma. Conclusions: Dual-laser therapy guided by multispectral imaging provides a targeted and effective treatment for rhinophyma, addressing its vascular and glandular components. The use of OCT enhances understanding of laser-induced tissue changes and confirms significant reductions in vascular and collagen density. This approach represents a significant advancement in the management of rhinophyma, offering improved precision and therapeutic outcomes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 4801 KiB

Open AccessArticle

AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA): Smart Technology for Robust Skin Color Classification and Segmentation

by Abderrachid Hamrani, Daniela Leizaola, Nikhil Kumar Reddy Vedere, Robert S. Kirsner, Kacie Kaile, Alexander Lee Trinidad and Anuradha Godavarty

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 218; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060218 - 10 Dec 2024

Viewed by 921

Abstract

Traditional methods for skin color classification, such as visual assessments and conventional image classification, face limitations in accuracy and consistency under varying conditions. To address this, we developed AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA), an unsupervised learning system designed to enhance dermatological diagnostics. AIDA applies [...] Read more.

Traditional methods for skin color classification, such as visual assessments and conventional image classification, face limitations in accuracy and consistency under varying conditions. To address this, we developed AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA), an unsupervised learning system designed to enhance dermatological diagnostics. AIDA applies clustering techniques to classify skin tones without relying on labeled data, evaluating over twelve models, including K-means, density-based, hierarchical, and fuzzy logic algorithms. The model’s key feature is its ability to mimic the process clinicians traditionally perform by visually matching the skin with the Fitzpatrick Skin Type (FST) palette scale but with enhanced precision and accuracy using Euclidean distance-based clustering techniques. AIDA demonstrated superior performance, achieving a 97% accuracy rate compared to 87% for a supervised convolutional neural network (CNN). The system also segments skin images into clusters based on color similarity, providing detailed spatial mapping aligned with dermatological standards. This segmentation reduces the uncertainty related to lighting conditions and other environmental factors, enhancing precision and consistency in skin color classification. This approach offers significant improvements in personalized dermatological care by reducing reliance on labeled data, improving diagnostic accuracy, and paving the way for future applications in diverse dermatological and cosmetic contexts. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 3488 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Potential of Tecoma stans (Linn.) Flower Extract as a Natural Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Agent for Skin Care Products

by Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Pimchanok Charoongchit and Ranit Charoenjittichai

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 214; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060214 - 8 Dec 2024

Viewed by 457

Abstract

Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its [...] Read more.

Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its inhibitory effect on skin degradation enzymes (collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase assay), have not been reported. This study aims to explore the effects of different solvent extractions on the total phenolic and total flavonoid contents, antioxidant and anti-aging activities, and cytotoxicity. The most suitable extract was selected for incorporation into an anti-aging product. T. stans flowers were extracted using hexane, ethyl acetate, absolute ethanol, and deionized water through maceration. The aqueous extract yielded the highest extraction efficiency (40.73%), followed by absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane. The phytochemical screening results revealed that all T. stans flower extracts contained phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, and alkaloids. Among the various solvents tested for T. stans flower extraction, absolute ethanol demonstrated the highest total phenolic content (24.10 ± 2.07 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g extract), followed by deionized water (20.83 ± 1.28 mg GAE/g extract). The highest total flavonoid content was observed in the ethyl acetate extract (205.11 ± 7.83 mg catechin equivalents (CE)/g extract), with ethanol showing a significantly lower concentration (140.67 ± 1.92 mg CE/g extract). In terms of antioxidant activity, the aqueous extract exhibited the most potent effects, with IC₅₀ values of 0.600 ± 0.005 mg/mL for the DPPH^• assay and 0.207 ± 0.001 mg/mL for the ABTS^•+ assay. For anti-aging assays, the absolute ethanolic extract demonstrated the highest enzyme inhibition activity at 1 mg/mL, with collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition rates of 89.49% ± 2.96%, 94.61% ± 2.33%, and 82.56% ± 2.27%, respectively. Moreover, at a concentration of 50 µg/mL, the absolute ethanolic extract exhibited lower cytotoxicity, with human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell viability of 78% ± 8.47%, which was significantly higher than that of the other extracts. An anti-aging gel containing 0.05% w/w of the ethanolic T. stans extract demonstrated physical and physicochemical stability during three months of storage at ambient temperatures, 4 °C, 45 °C, as well as after six cycles of heating/cooling tests. These findings suggest that the ethanolic extract of T. stans flower has potential as a safe and effective anti-aging agent for cosmeceutical products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 1190 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements

by Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Renato Grimaldi, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 212; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060212 - 5 Dec 2024

Viewed by 546

Abstract

The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its [...] Read more.

The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, renowned for their strengthening properties, were evaluated regarding (I) their ability to penetrate both virgin and bleached textured hair using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) time-of-flight (TOF) analysis, and (II) their effects by way of tensile and fatigue tests. The MALDI–TOF results revealed groups of oil molecules in the cortical region of the bleached textured hair. The tensile test results, in turn, showed that the oil treatments were unable to alter the mechanical properties of the hair. Conversely, the fatigue test showed an increase in resistance in the virgin hair, most likely attributed to a lubrication effect in the outermost portions of the cortex and cuticles. In the bleached hair, a reduction in resistance was noted following the treatment with the oils. Comparative analysis with a previous study on straight hair by our group suggests that external molecules diffuse more homogeneously in straight hair than in textured hair. The unique cortical structure of textured hair creates two areas with distinct diffusion zones, resulting in the irregular distribution of external materials and different effects compared to straight hair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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19 pages, 2350 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Enhancing Antioxidant Activity from Aquatic Plant Cymodocea nodosa for Cosmetic Formulation Through Optimized Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction Using Response Surface Methodology

by Emna Chaabani, Sarra Mgaidi, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Sarra Dakhlaoui, Majdi Hammami, Sawssen Selmi, Mohamed Zariat, Abdessalem Shili, Othmane Merah and Iness Bettaieb Rebey

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 186; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060186 - 26 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1078

Abstract

This study aimed to enhance antioxidant extraction from the aquatic plant Cymodocea nodosa for cosmetic formulation through optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction using response surface methodology. The optimized conditions—30 min of extraction time, 30% ultrasonic power, and 25% hydro-ethanolic solvent—resulted in a high total phenolic [...] Read more.

This study aimed to enhance antioxidant extraction from the aquatic plant Cymodocea nodosa for cosmetic formulation through optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction using response surface methodology. The optimized conditions—30 min of extraction time, 30% ultrasonic power, and 25% hydro-ethanolic solvent—resulted in a high total phenolic content of 113.07 mg EAG/g DM and antioxidant activity of 67.02%. Chromatographic analysis revealed a rich profile of phenolic compounds, including sinapic acid (0.741 mg/g), myricetin (0.62 mg/g), and quercetin-3-O-rutinoside (0.3 mg/g), demonstrating the extract’s potent therapeutic properties. While the extract exhibited limited anti-inflammatory activity, it showed no cytotoxic effects on RAW 267.4 cells, ensuring its safety for cosmetic applications. The formulated cream maintained stable pH (6.58 to 6.6), consistent viscosity (5966.38 to 5980.6 cp), and minimal color changes over a 30-day period, indicating robust stability across various temperatures (4 °C, 25 °C, and 40 °C). These results confirm the potential of C. nodosa extracts to develop effective, stable, and eco-friendly cosmetic products, offering substantial benefits for skin health and emphasizing the importance of sustainable extraction processes in the cosmetics industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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11 pages, 1646 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Alternative Approach to Validate the Cleaning Efficiency of a Skin Cleansing Wipe

by Arnold Marisa, Wisdom Shadrach, Kerrie Holohan, Abed Alkarem Abu Alhaija, Emer Gilligan, Jill Sommerville, Niall Burke and Tim Yeomans

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 172; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050172 - 1 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1488

Abstract

A key functionality for cleansing wipes is their efficiency in removing dirt and microbial contamination from the skin to safe or non-detectable levels, traditionally determined using the gravimetric method, which has been reported to be prone to experimental errors. This study evaluates the [...] Read more.

A key functionality for cleansing wipes is their efficiency in removing dirt and microbial contamination from the skin to safe or non-detectable levels, traditionally determined using the gravimetric method, which has been reported to be prone to experimental errors. This study evaluates the efficiency of a water-based cleansing wipe, WaterWipes^® (WaterWipes, UC, Drogheda, Ireland), for removing synthetic faecal matter (Feclone^TM, SiliClone Creations LLC, Havertown, PA, United States) and Escherichia coli (NCTC 10538) from volunteers’ skin, the former using a dermal analytical device called the Antera 3D^TM camera (Miravex Ltd., Dublin, Ireland), and the latter using standard microbiological methods. Feclone^TM was applied to participants’ forearms and the Antera 3D^TM camera captured detailed images of the skin surface before and after wiping. The Antera 3D^TM camera approach was found to be effective in measuring cleaning efficiency, with the wipe removing all detectable traces of the Feclone^TM applied. The total pore area (mm²), pore count, and total pore volume (mm³) in test participants post-wiping were observed to be reduced on average by 39.05%, 34.39%, and 39.98%, respectively. The wipe removed 99.99% of E. coli (NCTC 10538) applied, as measured using the microbial plate count method. In conclusion, the Antera 3D^TM camera method was observed to be effective in evaluating removal of topically applied Feclone^TM. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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11 pages, 3101 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Galloyl–RGD, Derived from a Fusion of Phytochemicals and RGD Peptides, Regulates Photoaging via the MAPK/AP-1 Mechanism in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

by Seo Yeon Shin, Nu Ri Song, Mee Hyun Lee and Kyung Mok Park

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 171; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050171 - 1 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1011

Abstract

Galloyl–RGD is a novel compound that combines gallic acid with RGD peptides (arginine, glycine, and asparaginic acid) to overcome the problems associated with gallic acid, such as instability at high temperatures and low solubility. In this study, we investigated the effects and molecular [...] Read more.

Galloyl–RGD is a novel compound that combines gallic acid with RGD peptides (arginine, glycine, and asparaginic acid) to overcome the problems associated with gallic acid, such as instability at high temperatures and low solubility. In this study, we investigated the effects and molecular mechanisms of action of galloyl–RGD on UVB-induced skin photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts-neonatal (HDF-n). Galloyl–RGD increased collagen synthesis by inhibiting UVB-induced MMP-1 via inhibiting extracellular signal-regulated kinase and Jun N-terminal kinase and their downstream mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling, which are known to be representative photoaging mechanisms. The results of this study will be helpful for understanding the anti-photoaging effect and mechanism of galloyl–RGD and its future applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 1926 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Bulk RNA Barcode Sequencing Reveals Role of RNA Splicing in Aging Dermal Stem Cell Modulation by a Botanical Extract

by Julia Baumann, Valentine Vocat, Kathrin Nowak, Fred Zülli, Chennakesava Cuddapah and Franziska Wandrey

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 167; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050167 - 27 Sep 2024

Viewed by 887

Abstract

Skin aging is a complex, multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging is crucial for developing effective anti-aging strategies. Dermal stem cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis, but their functionality is [...] Read more.

Skin aging is a complex, multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging is crucial for developing effective anti-aging strategies. Dermal stem cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis, but their functionality is compromised with aging. This study investigated the impact of aging on dermal stem cells and explored the potential of natural extracts in modulating their biological characteristics. Using bulk RNA barcoding and sequencing (BRB-seq), we identified differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between young and aged dermal stem cells, revealing alterations in cellular processes, including cell proliferation, ECM synthesis, and RNA splicing. We also demonstrated that a natural extract, comprising callus cells and Alpine rose leaf extracts, influenced RNA splicing in aged dermal stem cells, leading to improved dermal structure and integrity in vitro. Our findings suggest that natural extracts may exert their effects through senolytic activity and the modulation of RNA splicing, a process crucial to gene expression and cellular function. This study underscores the potential of integrating high-throughput transcriptomics in understanding skin aging, presenting new avenues for the development of innovative, sustainable, and effective anti-aging strategies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 2606 KiB

Open AccessArticle

SVX Spider Silk-Inspired Biopolymer and Enhanced Cosmetics Efficacy

by Konstantin Press, Noa Hadar, Ella Sklan, Alon Meir, Gregory Idelson, Tanya Karakouz, Miriam Gubelbank, Ali Abu Znaid and Shlomzion Shen

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 166; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050166 - 27 Sep 2024

Viewed by 1498

Abstract

The cosmetics industry is undergoing a shift towards sustainability and efficacy, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products. This paper introduces SVX, a spider silk-inspired raw material intended to transform cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation, SVX is a biopolymer composed of [...] Read more.

The cosmetics industry is undergoing a shift towards sustainability and efficacy, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products. This paper introduces SVX, a spider silk-inspired raw material intended to transform cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation, SVX is a biopolymer composed of self-assembled proteins characterized by a porous structure for delivering active ingredients safely to the skin. The study utilized in vitro and ex vivo methods to assess SVX’s ability to protect against oxidative stress, enhance skin hydration, and support ingredient delivery. Safety assays, including the HET-CAM, patch test, and HRIPT, demonstrated that SVX is non-irritating and safe for topical application. Additionally, FTIR analysis confirmed SVX’s capacity for sustained release of active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, over an 8 h period. Results showed that SVX significantly improved skin barrier protection and exhibited superior antioxidant properties compared to control formulations. Its biocompatibility, along with a vegan and biodegradable composition, aligns with the principles of sustainability, with over 60% biodegradability achieved within 10 days. Furthermore, SVX displayed antioxidant efficacy approximately 130 times greater than L-ascorbic acid, based on DPPH assay results. These findings suggest that SVX offers a versatile and sustainable solution for skincare formulations, combining environmental responsibility with benefits for skin health and performance. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 1501 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Revealing the Potential of Chios Mastic Gum and Its Constituents for Cosmetic Applications through Chemical Profiling and Biological Evaluation

by Panagiota Stamou, Eleni V. Mikropoulou, Maria Chalkiadaki, Aikaterini Basdeki, Lemonia Antoniadi, Stéphane Poigny and Maria Halabalaki

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050155 - 9 Sep 2024

Viewed by 1402

Abstract

Chios mastic gum (CMG), the resin of Pistacia lentiscus var. Chia, is a product with great ethnopharmacological and economic significance. This study attempts to investigate, for the first time, the activity of CMG, its fractions and isolated compounds against specific enzymes, which [...] Read more.

Chios mastic gum (CMG), the resin of Pistacia lentiscus var. Chia, is a product with great ethnopharmacological and economic significance. This study attempts to investigate, for the first time, the activity of CMG, its fractions and isolated compounds against specific enzymes, which play pivotal roles in the degradation of proteins contained in skin connective tissue. Initially, crude CMG was subjected to extraction, fractionation and isolation through different chromatographic techniques to obtain the acidic and neutral fraction of terpenes. Additionally, the characteristic and major active triterpene acids of CMG, masticadienonic and isomasticadienonic acids (MNA, IMNA) were isolated in pure form. All samples were analysed by means of High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) with four distinct development systems to obtain their constituents’ profile. Finally, samples were tested for their ability to inhibit the elastase and collagenase enzymes. According to our findings, for collagenase, a mixture of MNA and IMNA demonstrated the most potent activity with an IC₅₀ value of 31.07 μg/mL, while for elastase CMG’s acidic fraction provided the most promising results with an IC₅₀ value of 17.30 μg/mL. Overall, these results attempt to fill the gap in scientific knowledge about the use of CMG and its constituents in skincare and cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 5421 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Bioactive Triple-Helical Recombinant Collagen Gels for Improved Healing of Sunburned Skin

by Yi Yang, Bei Tian, Yi Xie, Peng Liu, Linyan Yao and Jianxi Xiao

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040138 - 13 Aug 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1764

Abstract

Excessive ultraviolet (UV) exposure can lead to sunburn, characterized by skin barrier damage, inflammation, pain, and an increased risk of skin cancer. Recombinant collagens have gradually attracted attention due to their high purity, low immunogenicity, batch-to-batch consistency, and excellent solubility. Additionally, the type [...] Read more.

Excessive ultraviolet (UV) exposure can lead to sunburn, characterized by skin barrier damage, inflammation, pain, and an increased risk of skin cancer. Recombinant collagens have gradually attracted attention due to their high purity, low immunogenicity, batch-to-batch consistency, and excellent solubility. Additionally, the type of dressing significantly affects wound repair. Gels are ideal for sunburn treatment because they maintain a moist environment, adhere firmly, and do not need to be removed. Herein, we have created bioactive triple-helical recombinant collagen (THRC) gels for improved healing of sunburned skin. The THRC gels remained stable after a three-month stability test, displaying a rheological behavior characteristic of non-Newtonian pseudoplastic fluids. In vivo skin irritation tests conducted on New Zealand rabbits demonstrated that THRC gels were safe for use. A sunburned mice model was established to study the biological effects of THRC gels. Non-invasive combo evaluations indicated that THRC gels exhibited an exceptional capability of recovering dermis density, erythema index (EI), hydration, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of sunburned skin to a healthy state. Histological observations revealed that THRC gels significantly enhanced the repair of damaged skin by accelerating the recovery process, promoting collagen deposition and regeneration. Molecular biological characterizations further demonstrated their remarkable antioxidant properties, including the inhibition of lipoperoxidation and the enhancement in superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione (GSH) activities. These safe and bioactive recombinant collagen gels provide a novel approach for sunburn repair and show potential for long-term cosmetic benefits. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 801 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Design, Development, and In Vivo Testing of the Hydrating Effect and pH Maintenance a Cosmetic Formulation Incorporating Oils and an Extract from Peruvian Biodiversity

by Jorge Huaman, Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco, Jorge Rojas, Ana María Muñoz and Patricia Lozada

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040129 - 26 Jul 2024

Viewed by 1799

Abstract

Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing [...] Read more.

Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 1779 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Preliminary Experience with a Cleansing Mousse and a Non-Steroidal Emulsion for the Prevention and Treatment of Acute Radiation Dermatitis in Breast Cancer Patients Undergoing Adjuvant Radiotherapy

by Anna Viola, Emanuele Martorana, Valentina Zagardo and Gianluca Ferini

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040117 - 11 Jul 2024

Viewed by 1378

Abstract

Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which [...] Read more.

Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which is generally managed with emollients, moisturizers, or corticosteroids. We conducted a prospective observational study to evaluate the rate and grade of RD with the application of a cleansing mousse and a non-steroidal emulsion during the adjuvant RT program in patients with breast cancer submitted to surgery. Materials and Methods: A cleansing mousse containing vegetable glycerin (12%), phytoextract of chamomile (0.5%), yarrow phytoextract (0.5%), sweet almond (0.1%), Oenothera oil (0.1%), and rice protein hydrolyzate (0.1%), and an emulsion containing micronized zinc oxide (3.7%), rapeseed phytosterols (1.7%), aloe (0.5%), 18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid (0.5%), alpha bisabolol (0.5%), and zanthalene (0.5%) were offered to breast cancer patients undergoing adjuvant RT to prevent the onset of RD and mitigate its severity. These specific ingredients were selected for their well-known anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties. Skin toxicities were recorded photographically and graded according to the RTOG scoring system. Results: From March 2023 to July 2023, a total of 24 patients with a median age of 59 years (range 42–75) were enrolled. Halfway through the RT treatment, 20 patients (83.3%) had G0 skin toxicity, three (12.5%) G1, one (4.2%) G2. None showed G3–G4 toxicity. At the end of RT, seven patients (29.2%) exhibited G0 skin toxicity, 14 (58.3%) G1, two (8.3%) G2, one (4.2%) G3. No patient developed G4 toxicity. Fifteen days after the end of RT, 13 patients (54.2%) had G0 skin toxicity, 10 (41.1%) G1, one (4.2%) G2, with none showing G3–G4 toxicity. Conclusions: Our data suggest that the tested topicals might be an effective option for preventing and alleviating RD. Further prospective randomized studies are needed to confirm our findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 3515 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Inhibition of Oxidative Stress-Mediated Cell Apoptosis by the Caspase Inhibitor (S)-3-((S)-2-(6-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][1,4]dioxin-6-yl)-1-oxoisoindolin-2-yl)butanamido)-4-oxo-5-(2,3,5,6-tetrafluorophenoxy)pentanoic Acid in Human Dermal Papilla Cells

by Bomi Park, Daeun Kim, Yurim Lee, Seihyun Choi, HeeDong Park, Sanghwa Lee and Jaesung Hwang

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040105 - 22 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1546

Abstract

Alopecia is traditionally viewed as androgen-dependent, but emerging evidence has implicated oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hair loss. Current treatments for alopecia have limited efficacy, leading to the need for new therapies. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) play a pivotal role in [...] Read more.

Alopecia is traditionally viewed as androgen-dependent, but emerging evidence has implicated oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of hair loss. Current treatments for alopecia have limited efficacy, leading to the need for new therapies. Human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) play a pivotal role in hair follicle (HF) development and hair growth regulation. In this study, we investigated the potential of (S)-3-((S)-2-(6-(2,3-dihydrobenzo[b][1,4]dioxin-6-yl)-1-oxoisoindolin-2-yl)butanamido)-4-oxo-5-(2,3,5,6 tetrafluorophenoxy) pentanoic acid (THPA), a pan-caspase inhibitor, to reduce ROS-induced cellular damage and apoptosis in hDPCs. Our study revealed that THPA effectively suppressed hydrogen peroxide-induced apoptosis while also attenuating activated caspase signaling. Additionally, THPA restored the down-regulated expression of β-catenin, a key mediator of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway, in hDPCs exposed to hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, significant alterations in Akt/mTOR/p70S6K signaling were observed following THPA treatment. Notably, THPA treatment led to a reduction in the expression of Dickkopf-1 (DKK-1), an inhibitor of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway implicated in hair follicle regression. Moreover, THPA treatment decreased the expression of the cell senescence markers p21 and p16, suggesting a potential role in preserving hDPC function and delaying hair follicle regression. Collectively, our findings highlight the therapeutic potential of THPA in preventing hair loss by protecting hDPCs against oxidative stress damage. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 3839 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Chemical Profile and Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Chamaemelum nobile L. Green Extracts

by Luciana Maria Polcaro, Antonietta Cerulli, Francesco Montella, Elena Ciaglia, Milena Masullo and Sonia Piacente

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030094 - 6 Jun 2024

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 1848

Abstract

The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) [...] Read more.

The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) to act as a skin-whitening agent. With the aim to investigate antioxidant and lightening potential, fresh aerial parts of C. nobile were extracted by maceration, ultrasound-assisted extraction, and solid–liquid dynamic (SLDE-Naviglio) extraction using EtOH/H₂O mixtures. Moreover, 32 metabolites (flavonoids, sesquiterpenoids, amides, and polar fatty acids) were identified by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry. Principal component analysis revealed how the extract EtOH/H₂O 50% (Naviglio and long maceration), along with the extract EtOH/H₂O 60% (maceration) were richest in flavonoids. All extracts were tested by TEAC and DPPH assays, and to determine their in vitro antioxidant activity, the DHR 123 probe–intracellular ROS assay in HaCaT cells, for some extracts, was performed. Moreover, their ability to exert a whitening effect was tested by analyzing their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The quantitative determination of apigenin, known as a natural tyrosinase inhibitor, was performed by LC-ESI/QTrap/MS/MS using the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method. These results are promising for selecting an extraction method to obtain a sustainable product rich in bioactives. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 1554 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Towards the Development of a Cream with Antiviral Properties Targeting Both the Influenza A Virus and SARS-CoV-2

by Philippe Mangeot, Kristell Lazou, Aurelia Blin, Valerie Gorzelanczyk, Olivier Jeanneton, Chantal Kurfurst, Karl Pays, Bruno Bavouzet, Carine Nizard, Theophile Ohlmann and Anne-Laure Bulteau

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030091 - 4 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1582

Abstract

Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019 [...] Read more.

Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019 and caused the most significant human pandemic of the beginning of the 21st century. Both IAV and SARS-CoV-2 share clinical features and a common transmission route through the emission of viral particles via aerosols and droplets. These penetrate the host after entry from the nose and mouth or an indirect mode of transmission via contact contamination of different media. These facts prompted us to investigate the possibility of designing a soft cream with a virucidal activity targeted against IAV and SARS-CoV-2. Methods: We first investigated the action of chemical compounds known to have antiviral properties such as cyclodextrin, or algae extracts containing sulfated polysaccharides, on cultured cells infected with lentiviral viral particles pseudotyped (VP) with either proteins HA (hemagglutinin) and NA (neuraminidase) from IAV or the G protein from the vesicular stomatitis virus or spike-bearing particles in order to select molecules with antiviral activities in human embryonic kidney (HEK293T) cells. Results: Our results show that some cyclodextrin-containing creams can significantly reduce the stability of HANA- and spike-bearing particles when they are applied prior to challenge with a viral inoculum on skin. Conclusions: We observed some specificities of these creams towards either IAV or SARS-CoV-2, indicating that the neutralization of viral activity is correlated with the mechanism of receptor interaction and entry of these two pathogens. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 1248 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Randomized Controlled Prospective Cohort Study on the Efficacy of a Witch Hazel Extract Cream for the Eyelids and Eye Contour Area and a Cleansing Face Cream in Dermatitis of the Eyelids

by Federica Veronese, Elia Esposto, Chiara Airoldi, Nunzia Di Cristo, Pamela Paganini, Paola Savoia and Elisa Zavattaro

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030083 - 22 May 2024

Viewed by 1725

Abstract

Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream [...] Read more.

Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream for the eyelids and eye contour area and cleansing face cream) in which the key ingredient was witch hazel extract, compared to generic cream, in the treatment of patients affected by eyelid dermatitis. Enrolled subjects were treated and followed-up for 4 weeks; dermatological evaluation was objectively performed using the DLQI, OSDI, NRS–itch, and EDSI indicators. Results: The products tested proved to be more effective than the placebo in ameliorating the dermatitis in the treated patients, based on all considered dermatological scores. In the treatment arm, we observed a reduction in both DLQI score and in the indicators related to the extension of dermatitis, greater than that observed in the control arm. Conclusions: This comparative study demonstrates the role of dermo-cosmetic products tested not only as a support treatment, but also as a first-choice clinical approach. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 2478 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effect of Fermentation and Extraction Techniques on the Physicochemical Composition of Copoazú Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum) as an Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry

by Luisa L. Orduz-Díaz, Kimberly Lozano-Garzón, Willian Quintero-Mendoza, Raquel Díaz, Juliana E. C. Cardona-Jaramillo, Marcela P. Carrillo, Diana Carolina Guerrero and Maria Soledad Hernández

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030077 - 8 May 2024

Viewed by 1933

Abstract

The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process [...] Read more.

The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process and the diverse extraction techniques employed. In this study, the composition of this butter processed with and without seed fermentation was analyzed using two extraction techniques: expeller pressing and hydraulic pressing. Parameters such as lipid profile, quality indexes, melting point, and the content of phytosterols and glyceric compounds were compared with a highly sought-after commercial raw material assessed through standardized volumetric and spectroscopic methodologies. The results showed that non-fermentation and cold-pressing conditions preserved the properties of the butter. This analysis is the first step in a standardized process for developing high-quality cosmetic ingredients derived from Copoazú butter. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 11249 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Advancing Lip Augmentation: State-of-the-Art 2D and 3D Analysis for Assessing Volume Enhancement and Lip Line Redefinition

by Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Lucia Ricci, Eleonora Vardaro, Teresa Di Serio, Elena Morelli and Sonia Laneri

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 70; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030070 - 3 May 2024

Viewed by 2121

Abstract

Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume [...] Read more.

Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume and distinct vermilion borders. Despite the proliferation of lip augmentation techniques, there remains a dearth of comprehensive investigations into their precise effects on the three-dimensional structural integrity of the lips. This research endeavors to address this gap by employing stereophotogrammetry as a quantitative tool to scrutinize lip augmentation outcomes and to appraise the efficacy of lip plumpers. The study methodology involves a comparative analysis of lip dimensions among subjects treated with a commercial lip plumper using multi-spectral imaging for lip dimension assessment, coupled with markerless tracking technology and 3D interpolating surface methodology to analyze lip volume and shape. Additionally, the study evaluated lip youth state, including moisture level, softness, firmness, and tissue density. The demand for lip augmentation procedures is driven by perceived advantages such as quick recovery and minimal risk. Therefore, it is crucial to substantiate their efficacy with robust findings. The investigation suggests that both 3D and 2D stereophotogrammetry techniques are reliable for evaluating lip size before and after augmentation, whether through cosmetic or aesthetic approaches. Overall, the study provides a comprehensive analysis of a lip treatment aimed at enhancing volume and redesigning lip lines. It demonstrates that stereophotogrammetry is effective for assessing 3D lip dimensions and their correlation with internal lip structure. This research could be particularly valuable for evaluating the efficacy and duration of various lip enhancement techniques, including dermal fillers, implants, and topical cosmetic formulations, offering quantitative and reproducible assessments over time. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 2063 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential Benefits of a Cosmetic Ingredient Combining Thermal Spring Water and Diatom Algae Extract

by Maria Lourdes Mourelle, Jordi Segura de Yebra, Jordi Ayats, Maria Vitale and Ana López Sánchez

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020062 - 17 Apr 2024

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3417

Abstract

The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here [...] Read more.

The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here describe the development of a new ingredient consisting of a mixture of thermal water and a diatom algae extract. First, we characterized a thermal spring water (La Solia, LS-TSW). Attending to its chemical composition, LS-TSW displayed an exclusive combination of different inorganic elements, with interesting potential properties when compared with other commercial spring waters. Then, LS-TSW hydrobiome was studied, and after finding specimens of Phaeodactylum-like sp., we proposed potentiating LS-TSW benefits with its combination with an oil extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum (PtOE). Finally, we assessed the potential of the mixture during pro-inflammatory stimulation, in the first instance using an immune cell model, and then in an in vitro system mimicking keratinocytes under skin irritation. In the last-mentioned model, the ingredient of interest effectively attenuated the induced levels of different pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, IL-1, TNFα, NF-κB, and CCL1), at the level of gene expression. Thus, our results highlight the potential benefits of this combination in the context of skin irritation, opening roads for its use in new skincare regimens, and addressing an important dermatological concern. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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25 pages, 5605 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Eco-Designing Cosmetic Products while Preserving the Sensorial-Application Properties: An Instrumental Approach toward Sustainable Formulations

by Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini, Mario Piatto, Silvia Lucchetti, Stefano Francescato, Laura Busata, Giovanni Baratto and Alessandra Semenzato

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020060 - 15 Apr 2024

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3209

Abstract

Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable [...] Read more.

Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 1336 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Aging Properties of Cannabis sativa Leaf Extract against UVA Irradiation

by Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Preeyanuch Pimjuk, Preeyawass Phimnuan, Wisanee Wisanwattana, Chothip Wisespongpand, Neti Waranuch and Jarupa Viyoch

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 45; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020045 - 18 Mar 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4245

Abstract

Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its [...] Read more.

Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its anti-photoaging ability. HPLC analysis revealed that the CLES contained 1.64 ± 0.01% w/w of cannabidiol and 0.11% w/w of ∆⁹-tetrahydrocannabinol. Additionally, the total phenolic content was found to be 4.08 ± 0.30 mg gallic acid equivalent per g of solution using the Folin–Ciocalteu method. The CLES exhibited potent scavenging activity using a DPPH assay, with an EC₅₀ value of 277.9 ± 2.41 μg/mL, comparable to L-ascorbic acid, with 2.19 ± 0.28 μg/mL. The anti-photoaging potential of the CLES was evaluated using UVA-irradiated and in vitro-aged fibroblasts as a model. Pre-treatment with 20 μg/mL CLES for 24 h significantly alleviated the reduction in type I procollagen and suppressed the overproduction of MMP-1 and IL-6 induced by UVA. Moreover, the percentage of senescence-associated β-galactosidase-expressing cells decreased significantly to 11.9 ± 0.5% in the aged cells treated with CLES compared with untreated cells (18.8 ± 3.8%). These results strongly indicate the cosmeceutical potential of the CLES as an effective active agent for the anti-photoaging prevention and/or treatment. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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22 pages, 3909 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Olive Leaves and Citrus Peels: From Waste to Potential Resource for Cosmetic Products

by Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonia Mancuso, Rosario Mare, Antonio Silletta, Samantha Maurotti, Ortensia Ilaria Parisi, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 41; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020041 - 8 Mar 2024

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 3421

Abstract

Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf [...] Read more.

Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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17 pages, 4704 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Hylocereus undatus Extract Enhances Skin Microbiota Balance and Delivers In-Vivo Improvements in Skin Health and Beauty

by Fabien Havas, Shlomo Krispin, Moshe Cohen and Joan Attia-Vigneau

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 39; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020039 - 7 Mar 2024

Viewed by 3024

Abstract

Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations [...] Read more.

Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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7 pages, 469 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Efficacy and Skin Microbiome Modulation Effects of a Fixed-Concentration Combination of Benzoyl Peroxide 4% Plus Niacinamide 4% in a Film-Forming Cream in Subjects with Mild-to-Moderate Acne: A Non-Sponsored, Prospective, Assessor-Blinded, Pilot Trial

by Mario Puviani and Klaus Eisendle

Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 25; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010025 - 7 Feb 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3239

Abstract

Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and niacinamide (Niac) are commonly used alone or in combination with other molecules in the treatment of acne. BPO and Niac in the same product could exert complementary and synergistic effects improving efficacy in acne. Furthermore, Niac could reduce some [...] Read more.

Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and niacinamide (Niac) are commonly used alone or in combination with other molecules in the treatment of acne. BPO and Niac in the same product could exert complementary and synergistic effects improving efficacy in acne. Furthermore, Niac could reduce some side effects of BPO, such as skin irritation and erythema. A film-forming cream product containing BPO 4% and Niac 4%, vehiculated in a mixture of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and perfluoropolyether (PFPE) has been recently developed (B-N cream). A 28-day, assessor-blinded pilot trial was conducted to evaluate the clinical efficacy, skin tolerability, sebum production, skin redness, and skin microbiome modulation of B-N cream in subjects with mild to moderate acne of the face. Twenty-two adult men and women with mild-to-moderate acne of the face participated in this trial, after their written informed consent. B-N cream was applied once daily in the evening. The use of B-N cream was associated with a statistically significant decrease in acne lesions after treatment in comparison with baseline (non-inflammatory lesions: −40%; inflammatory lesions: −43% and total lesions: −41%). The use of the cream was not associated with a skin barrier function alteration. The skin redness score (−11%) and the sebum production (−42%) were significantly reduced after treatment. The use of B-N cream determined a reduction in the relative abundance of the Actinobacteria phylum (Corynebacterium and Propionibacterium, from 56% to 47%) and a significant increase in the abundance of Bacteroidetes phylum (from 3% to 5.2%). In addition, the product was well tolerated. In conclusion, this film-forming, medical device cream was effective in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne, reducing acne lesions and sebum production without altering skin barrier function, offering good skin tolerability. Furthermore, this product exerts positive skin microbiome modulation effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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Review

Jump to: Research, Other

22 pages, 1203 KiB

Open AccessReview

Aberrances of the Wound Healing Process: A Review

by Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino, Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez and Stefano Bacci

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 209; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060209 - 28 Nov 2024

Viewed by 843

Abstract

Wound healing is a complex biological process that can lead to chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars when disrupted. Chronic wounds result from a prolonged inflammatory phase and impaired re-epithelialization. Keloids are characterized by excessive collagen deposition beyond the original wound boundaries, driven [...] Read more.

Wound healing is a complex biological process that can lead to chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars when disrupted. Chronic wounds result from a prolonged inflammatory phase and impaired re-epithelialization. Keloids are characterized by excessive collagen deposition beyond the original wound boundaries, driven by persistent inflammation and fibroblast hyperactivity. Hypertrophic scars, on the other hand, are confined to the wound edges and are caused by an imbalance in collagen synthesis and degradation, typically resolving over time. The therapeutic approach to wound healing impairment involves a range of strategies, including non-invasive (which focus on supporting the natural healing process), minimally invasive, and aggressive interventions (such as surgical approach, often reserved for severe or refractory cases). Emerging therapies, including stem cell treatments and botulinum toxin injections, offer new hope for improving outcomes in patients with wound healing impairments. This review highlights the distinct mechanisms underlying chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars and discusses their respective therapeutic approaches, focusing on both established and emerging therapies. Understanding these mechanisms is crucial for optimizing treatment strategies and improving patient outcomes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 2216 KiB

Open AccessReview

Peloids in Skin Care and Cosmeceuticals

by M. Lourdes Mourelle, Carmen P. Gómez and José L. Legido

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 202; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060202 - 22 Nov 2024

Viewed by 586

Abstract

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place [...] Read more.

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place where the thermal water emerges or on the shores of the sea or salt lake, or they are prepared ad hoc from high-quality materials, such as clays or peat. Peloids are also used as cosmeceuticals in skin care to treat different skin disorders and/or conditions, such as psoriasis, eczema, and other scaly disorders, sensitive skin, and acne. This review reports all available scientific data concerning the effects and specific activities of peloids in skin care and cosmeceuticals, providing a better understanding of the clinical and cosmetic benefits. Finally, the safety and regulation of peloids are also discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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28 pages, 2992 KiB

Open AccessReview

Regulation and Safety of Cosmetics: Pre- and Post-Market Considerations for Adverse Events and Environmental Impacts

by Daniela Vieira, Joana Duarte, Pedro Vieira, Maria Beatriz S. Gonçalves, Ana Figueiras, Alka Lohani, Francisco Veiga and Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 184; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060184 - 24 Oct 2024

Viewed by 2580

Abstract

Cosmetic products have been increasingly regulated, particularly in Europe. With the introduction of the cosmetic regulation in 2013, stricter quality standards were implemented, surpassing those set by the 1976 legislation. The primary objective of these regulations is to safeguard consumer safety during the [...] Read more.

Cosmetic products have been increasingly regulated, particularly in Europe. With the introduction of the cosmetic regulation in 2013, stricter quality standards were implemented, surpassing those set by the 1976 legislation. The primary objective of these regulations is to safeguard consumer safety during the use of cosmetic products. Despite these advancements, certain regulatory gaps remain, indicating the need for more effective measures to enhance human and environmental health protection. Considering the aforementioned, this work aims to provide an overview of the current Cosmetics Regulation, highlighting the weakest cornerstones that represent the missing link keeping the core objective from being achieved. While there is ongoing reliance on historical data from animal studies, efforts are actively underway to replace these methods with new new approach methodologies for risk assessment. Additionally, regulatory authorities continue to improve environmental considerations in the assessment process. These measures, along with enhanced surveillance systems, are gradually addressing existing gaps and contributing to a more robust regulatory framework that balances market access with consumer safety. Legally non-compliant—or perhaps compliant but unknowingly dangerous—products may be used by people who relativize them as inherently safe, leading to adverse events. Whether caused by an underlying disease or purely by the chemical’s toxicity, these may never come to the attention of the authorities as they are generally under-reported, making it unfeasible to implement corrective or preventive measures to address their root cause. To illustrate, non-compliant products that have been detected by the Portuguese authority, INFARMED, I. P., from January 2018 to September 2023 are discussed, which were found to be potentially dangerous to human health and, therefore, withdrawn from the market. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 3231 KiB

Open AccessReview

Scalp Microbiome and Dandruff—Exploring Novel Biobased Esters

by Peter Mayser, Florian Genrich, Laura Meunier and Steffen Nordzieke

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 174; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050174 - 2 Oct 2024

Viewed by 2051

Abstract

Recent data suggest that dandruff might be associated with dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. This mini review summarizes the microbiome changes seen with the dandruff condition, as well as different solutions for dandruff control and their effects on the scalp microbiome in relation [...] Read more.

Recent data suggest that dandruff might be associated with dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. This mini review summarizes the microbiome changes seen with the dandruff condition, as well as different solutions for dandruff control and their effects on the scalp microbiome in relation to in vivo efficacy. Since zinc pyrithione has been banned from cosmetics in the EU, the medium-chain fatty acid ester propanediol caprylate is a new option, in addition to the remaining conventional ingredients: piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid. The ester is rapidly cleaved by Malassezia hydrolases in the external milieu, thereby releasing active caprylic acid. In addition to its auto-regulatory effects on Malassezia, propanediol caprylate is also able to influence the bacterial microbiota towards a healthier scalp microbiome. In vivo data have shown an efficacy comparable to climbazole and piroctone olamine. In vivo additive and synergistic effects in different combinations allow reductions in the concentration of conventional agents. Surprisingly, a new effect of a lasting healthier scalp has been identified in connection with ester use, in contrast to the usual return of dandruff experienced upon the discontinuation of anti-dandruff shampoo with conventional actives. We also report on new data from an unpublished comparative study on two propanediol monoesters confirming the long-lasting effect. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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19 pages, 2294 KiB

Open AccessReview

Harmonizing In Vitro Techniques for Anti-Aging Cosmetic Ingredient Assessment: A Comprehensive Review

by Maria Pilar Vinardell, Adriana Solange Maddaleno and Montserrat Mitjans

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 170; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050170 - 30 Sep 2024

Viewed by 1761

Abstract

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed [...] Read more.

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed to a decrease in collagen and elastin produced by fibroblasts. Several theories explain skin aging, including the free radical formation, neuroendocrine, and mitochondrial decline theories. Based on a scientific understanding of skin behavior, different in vitro methods are used to evaluate the effects of new ingredients in cosmetics. Commonly used methods include anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity alongside techniques utilizing skin cells or 3D models. Although these methods are recognized and widely used, they lack standardization. In this review, a literature search has been conducted to examine the characteristics and variations of these methods across the laboratories. A key issue identified in this review is that many papers provide insufficient detail regarding their protocols. Moreover, the number of studies using cells is less significant than the ones determining enzyme inhibition. Our findings revealed that, in many cases, there is limited information available, underscoring the urgent need to initiate a comprehensive standardization process for the methodologies used to demonstrate anti-aging activity. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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28 pages, 1833 KiB

Open AccessReview

Medicalized Aesthetic Uses of Exosomes and Cell Culture-Conditioned Media: Opening an Advanced Care Era for Biologically Inspired Cutaneous Prejuvenation and Rejuvenation

by Clara Rodriguez, Alexandre Porcello, Michèle Chemali, Wassim Raffoul, Cíntia Marques, Corinne Scaletta, Kelly Lourenço, Philippe Abdel-Sayed, Lee Ann Applegate, Fanny Pelissier Vatter and Alexis Laurent

Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050154 - 7 Sep 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 5861

Abstract

Recent advancements in aesthetic medicine offer innovative cosmetic solutions to enhance patient skin quality and appearance. Advanced treatment options enable practitioners to effectively address skin aging signs, pigmentation imbalance, and loss of elasticity in ambulatory and home-based care regimens. Exosomes (nanoscale cell-derived vesicles) [...] Read more.

Recent advancements in aesthetic medicine offer innovative cosmetic solutions to enhance patient skin quality and appearance. Advanced treatment options enable practitioners to effectively address skin aging signs, pigmentation imbalance, and loss of elasticity in ambulatory and home-based care regimens. Exosomes (nanoscale cell-derived vesicles) transport a variety of biomolecules and are pivotal in physiological intercellular communication. Importantly, exosomes have recently emerged as key endogenous players in tissular regeneration. More broadly (from an active ingredient purity standpoint), exosomes, stem cell secretomes, and cell culture-conditioned media have been clinically proven to exert multifaceted beneficial topical effects (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, skin rejuvenation). Therefore, human, animal, and plant-derived exosomes or other refined sub-cellular biological fractions are gaining substantial interest within the aesthetic and cosmetic industries. Notably, such approaches are thought to be among the most promising novel contenders for advanced, biologically inspired skin prejuvenation and rejuvenation care. The present narrative review summarizes the latest clinically oriented research on exosomes and cell culture-conditioned media, highlighting their mechanisms of action in various topical applications. Furthermore, it explores the innovation landscape and currently commercially available products on the global cosmetic market and discusses the potential future applications of advanced, biologically inspired ingredients in the medical aesthetic industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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19 pages, 1320 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmetology in the Era of Artificial Intelligence

by Vasiliki Sofia Grech, Vasiliki Kefala and Efstathios Rallis

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040135 - 9 Aug 2024

Viewed by 6378

Abstract

The integration of artificial intelligence (AI) in cosmetology is transforming the industry in numerous ways, including the introduction of advanced tools such as at-home skin analysis devices that can evaluate skin quality and augmented reality applications that allow users to virtually try on [...] Read more.

The integration of artificial intelligence (AI) in cosmetology is transforming the industry in numerous ways, including the introduction of advanced tools such as at-home skin analysis devices that can evaluate skin quality and augmented reality applications that allow users to virtually try on various makeup products. These innovations empower individuals to make well-informed decisions about their cosmetic care and enable cosmetologists to predict treatment outcomes with higher accuracy. In this way, AI enhances patient satisfaction by better aligning expectations with achievable results. A computerized database search was performed to identify articles relevant to this topic. A comprehensive search was applied to the following electronic databases: IEEE Xplore, PubMed, Google Scholar, and Research Gate. This review explores four key areas in the current literature where AI contributes to cosmetic procedures. Firstly, AI democratizes skincare by making products and services more accessible to everyone. Secondly, it bridges the gap between physicians and cosmetic suppliers by enlightening collaboration and innovation. Thirdly, it improves the assessment of cosmetic ingredients by ensuring better safety and efficacy, and lastly, AI provides an ethical alternative to animal testing by replacing the Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA) and the Guinea Pig Maximization Test (GPMT) with in silico models. While AI offers significant benefits, it also raises concerns about data privacy, informed consent, and the potential for promoting unrealistic beauty standards. Addressing these challenges involves implementing measures such as anonymization and de-identification techniques to protect sensitive data and safeguard informed consent for data collection and processing. This article aims to highlight the responsible and ethical use of AI in cosmetology, emphasizing the importance of accuracy and customization in cosmetic care, which represents a significant advancement in the industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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18 pages, 1566 KiB

Open AccessReview

Unwanted Skin Reactions to Acrylates: An Update

by Liborija Lugović-Mihić, Eva Filija, Vanja Varga, Lana Premuž, Ena Parać, Renata Tomašević, Ema Barac and Bruno Špiljak

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 127; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040127 - 25 Jul 2024

Viewed by 2846

Abstract

Acrylates and methacrylates, though common in a wide variety of products, especially in the dental industry, can cause adverse skin reactions. These compounds, including 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and bisphenol A-glycidyl methacrylate, are strong contact irritants or allergens. Found in dental prostheses, [...] Read more.

Acrylates and methacrylates, though common in a wide variety of products, especially in the dental industry, can cause adverse skin reactions. These compounds, including 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and bisphenol A-glycidyl methacrylate, are strong contact irritants or allergens. Found in dental prostheses, composite resins, dentin bonding materials, and glass ionomers, they pose a higher risk of exposure for dental personnel. Clinically, acrylate allergies manifest as facial rashes, eczema with cracked skin on fingers (pulpitis), nail dystrophy, and periungual dermatitis. Recently, however, the highest frequency of allergic reactions to acrylates has been observed in the beauty industry due to increased use in artificial nails, eyelashes, and hair extensions. This has led to greater sensitization. Acrylates are also used in medical applications such as bone cement for orthopedic endoprostheses, soft contact lenses, hearing aids, histological preparations, and wound dressings, which can also cause allergic reactions. For example, acrylates in surgical glue can cause severe dermatitis, and diabetic medical devices are also potential sources of allergic contact dermatitis. Given the extensive use and prolonged skin contact of products containing acrylates and methacrylates, this review aims to present current knowledge from the literature on reactions to these compounds across different industries. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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17 pages, 1439 KiB

Open AccessReview

Harnessing the Potential of Helinus integrifolius in Cosmeceutical Research: Toward Sustainable Natural Cosmetics

by Hlalanathi Y. Gwanya, Afika-Amazizi N. Mbuyiswa, Ompelege J. Phokwe, Nomagugu Gxaba and Madira C. Manganyi

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 126; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040126 - 24 Jul 2024

Viewed by 1832

Abstract

The growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic formulations has driven scientists to explore a wide range of botanical resources. Helinus integrifolius, a lesser-known botanical entity, has recently emerged as a formidable contender in this field. This review explores the [...] Read more.

The growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic formulations has driven scientists to explore a wide range of botanical resources. Helinus integrifolius, a lesser-known botanical entity, has recently emerged as a formidable contender in this field. This review explores the possibility of incorporating Helinus integrifolius in the cosmetics industry, synthesizing data from the literature on pharmacological, botanical, and cosmetic research. Additionally, this highlights the versatility and multipurpose nature of this botanical resource in cosmetic applications. Furthermore, concerns regarding the safety of contemporary cosmetic products, formulation compatibility, and regulatory aspects are addressed to accelerate its integration into cosmetic products. Ultimately, this review highlights the untapped potential of Helinus integrifolius as a treasured resource for the cosmetics industry, emphasizing its ability to meet the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly, effective, and naturally inspired cosmetic solutions. Through thorough exploration and analysis, this paper aims to stimulate further research and development initiatives aimed at harnessing the cosmetic capabilities of Helinus integrifolius, thus contributing to the advancement of innovation in natural cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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17 pages, 1898 KiB

Open AccessReview

Regenerative Cosmetics: Skin Tissue Engineering for Anti-Aging, Repair, and Hair Restoration

by Paula Pleguezuelos-Beltrán, Sara Herráiz-Gil, Daniel Martínez-Moreno, Iria Medraño-Fernandez, Carlos León and Sara Guerrero-Aspizua

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 121; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040121 - 15 Jul 2024

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 7460

Abstract

The quest for youthful, healthy skin and full, vibrant hair has long been a driving force in the dermocosmetics field. However, traditional approaches often struggle to address the underlying causes of aging, damage, and hair loss. Regenerative cosmetics powered by skin tissue engineering [...] Read more.

The quest for youthful, healthy skin and full, vibrant hair has long been a driving force in the dermocosmetics field. However, traditional approaches often struggle to address the underlying causes of aging, damage, and hair loss. Regenerative cosmetics powered by skin tissue engineering offer a transformative alternative. This review explores the emerging field of using engineered skin tissues for cosmetic purposes, focusing specifically on their potential for anti-aging, repair, and hair restoration applications. We discuss how these technologies aim to rejuvenate aging skin by promoting collagen production, reducing wrinkles, and improving overall skin function. Additionally, the use of engineered skin for wound healing and scar reduction is examined, highlighting their potential to improve the appearance and functionality of damaged skin. Finally, we advance the exciting prospects of utilizing skin tissue engineering techniques to regenerate hair follicles, potentially offering solutions for hair loss and promoting denser hair growth. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 354 KiB

Open AccessReview

Itch-Relieving Cosmetics

by Ju Hee Han and Hei Sung Kim

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040114 - 9 Jul 2024

Viewed by 2808

Abstract

This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to [...] Read more.

This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to control itch. Highlighted are ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal, postbiotics, menthol, peppermint, cryosim-1, capsaicin, asivatrep, polidocanol, pramoxine hydrocholoride, and palmitoylethanolamide, which are recognized to reduce itch. Special attention is also given to phytochemicals that can modulate the Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription signaling pathway and carry the potential as an itch-relieving cosmetic ingredient. This review encompasses clinical studies that verify the itch relieving effect of these cosmetic ingredients. By integrating current scientific evidence, we aim to shed light on the potential of anti-itch cosmetics as an adjunct to standard itch treatment, thereby broadening our understanding of their role in dermatological care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

14 pages, 841 KiB

Open AccessReview

Strategic Approaches in Formulation Development for Atopic Dermatitis

by Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, Khanh Phan, Ayyah Abdoh, Newton Andreo-Filho, Patricia Santos Lopes, Yousuf Mohammed and Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040113 - 9 Jul 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2699

Abstract

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed [...] Read more.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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19 pages, 1388 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmetic Packaging: European Regulatory Aspects and Sustainability

by Silvia Morel, Giulia Mura, Marina Gallarate and Simona Sapino

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040110 - 30 Jun 2024

Viewed by 3368

Abstract

This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and [...] Read more.

This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and aluminum. This is followed by an analysis of the existing EU legislative frameworks that govern cosmetic packaging, encompassing chemical, food, and waste regulations. The paper also discusses recent EU regulatory proposals and guidelines from trade associations aimed at enhancing the sustainability of cosmetic packaging materials. Additionally, the role of recycled and bio-based packaging materials in promoting environmental sustainability is analyzed. Overall, this review aims to provide insights for experts in the field on how to balance safety, functionality, and environmental responsibility in cosmetic packaging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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19 pages, 995 KiB

Open AccessReview

Deciphering the Effects of Different Types of Sunlight Radiation on Skin Function: A Review

by Sophia Letsiou, Elpida Koldiri, Apostolos Beloukas, Efstathios Rallis and Vasiliki Kefala

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030080 - 20 May 2024

Viewed by 3968

Abstract

Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin [...] Read more.

Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin problems like psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis can be avoided with short-duration exposures to low-energy blue light radiation or UV radiation. In addition, exploring the effects of blue light as well as UV radiation on skin is quite essential for the development of minimally invasive antiaging strategies and for the design of innovative cosmetic formulations in modern aesthetics and cosmetology. Thus, in this review, we present the advantages as well as the disadvantages of light radiation, with a special focus on blue light and UV radiation activity on the human skin. We also discuss the molecular action of blue light and UV radiation on human skin. Other types of light radiation are included to holistically approach the effect of light on human skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 1276 KiB

Open AccessReview

Adult Female Acne: Recent Advances in Pathophysiology and Therapeutic Approaches

by Andreea Amuzescu, Mircea Tampa, Clara Matei and Simona Roxana Georgescu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030074 - 5 May 2024

Viewed by 6337

Abstract

Adult acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit characterized by the excessive production of abnormal sebum favoring an imbalance of the skin microbiota and the hyperproliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and other virulent microbial strains, leading to an inflammatory environment, innate [...] Read more.

Adult acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit characterized by the excessive production of abnormal sebum favoring an imbalance of the skin microbiota and the hyperproliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and other virulent microbial strains, leading to an inflammatory environment, innate immunity overactivation, and keratinocyte hyperproliferation in hair follicles pores. Degraded keratinocytes plug the pores, consequently forming microcomedons, which can later evolve to papules, nodules, pustules and scars. Distinct from juvenile acne, in adult female acne (AFA) the symptomatology occurs or persists in postadolescence (after age 25). Although hyperandrogenism or the excessive sensitivity of androgen receptors are the main causes, AFA can be triggered by multiple factors, either including or not including androgen disturbances. The prevalence in adult women is 15–20%. Hyperandrogenism is present in 50% of cases; 70% of hyperandrogenism cases feature polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), a complex endocrine and metabolic condition. Genetic susceptibility occurs in 80% of acne cases, often with familial inheritance. Beyond classical stepwise therapeutic protocols (topical agents, isotretinoin, antibiotics, hormonal therapy with estrogens, progestins, spironolactone), novel approaches include the highly effective topical antiandrogen clascoterone, the management of insulin resistance by diet, exercise, stress avoidance, and adjuvant therapies such as berberine. Vaccines against the pathogenic proinflammatory C. acnes hyaluronidase A are in development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 2225 KiB

Open AccessReview

Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient Development

by Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Maria Pilar Vinardell and Montserrat Mitjans

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 47; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020047 - 25 Mar 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2735

Abstract

Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro [...] Read more.

Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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5 pages, 184 KiB

Open AccessCommentary

Perspectives of Regenerative Medicine in Dermatology and Cosmetology

by Enzo Berardesca and Norma Cameli

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 188; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060188 - 30 Oct 2024

Viewed by 1570

Abstract

Regenerative medicine has revolutionized the field of biological sciences, pharmacology and healthcare, bringing a new approach to treatments of various health conditions. Dermatology and aesthetic medicine are interested in these new scientific approaches as well. From this point of view, many areas of [...] Read more.

Regenerative medicine has revolutionized the field of biological sciences, pharmacology and healthcare, bringing a new approach to treatments of various health conditions. Dermatology and aesthetic medicine are interested in these new scientific approaches as well. From this point of view, many areas of skin health and cosmetology may be involved, but several questions should be answered before these procedures become routine in offices and hospitals. Indeed scientific, ethical, and financial issues still have to be addressed in detail. Nevertheless, ongoing research and technological advancements are expected to further improve therapies. The integration of artificial intelligence and machine learning could enhance the precision of regenerative treatments, making them more effective and accessible in forthcoming years. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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