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Cosmetics

Cosmetics is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI. 

Quartile Ranking JCR - Q1 (Dermatology)

All Articles (1,382)

  • Systematic Review
  • Open Access

Perifollicular elastolysis (PE), frequently referred to as papular acne scars, is an underrecognized folliculocentric disorder; its clinicopathologic spectrum and management have not been comprehensively synthesized. We performed a systematic review by searching Scopus, MEDLINE (via PubMed), and Cochrane CENTRAL from inception to 16 December 2025, for primary PE reports, synthesized findings narratively, and appraised bias risk using Joanna Briggs Institute checklists. After applying relevant inclusion and exclusion criteria, 16 studies, largely case reports/series, were included. PE typically presents as asymptomatic, noninflammatory, discrete follicular papules, most often skin-colored to whitish/yellowish, occurring mainly on the face and other acne-prone sites. Histopathological investigations reproducibly have shown selective perifollicular loss and/or fragmentation of elastic fibers on staining, with variable perifollicular fibrotic or scar-like changes. Therapeutic evidence was sparse and heterogeneous; the largest interventional study evaluated fractional CO2 laser delivered in an artificial grid pattern (three sessions; 2-month intervals) and reported short-term improvement with transient post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in 15.6% of patients. Overall, PE shows a consistent clinicopathologic signature, but high-certainty therapeutic evidence remains limited; future studies should standardize terminology, diagnostic criteria, and core outcomes and use prospective comparative designs to establish effective and safe treatments.

9 February 2026

PRISMA flow diagram of the study selection process. CENTRAL, Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials; MEDLINE, Medical Literature Analysis and Retrieval System Online; PRISMA, Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses.

Cellulite, a multifactorial condition affecting approximately 98% of women, is characterised by dermal and subcutaneous architectural changes that compromise skin texture and elasticity. Its progression is closely linked to hormonal, vascular, and inflammatory factors, as well as ageing-related extracellular matrix degradation. This review critically evaluates bioactive compounds incorporated into topical and minimally invasive formulations for the management of cellulite and skin rejuvenation. A comprehensive literature search was conducted across major scientific databases and cosmetic ingredient repositories, focusing on active ingredients with demonstrated efficacy in enhancing skin structure. Key compounds include capsaicin, forskolin, L-carnitine, caffeine, retinol, and extracts from plants such as Centella asiatica, which act via lipolysis, improved circulation, and antioxidant effects. Minimally invasive agents, such as deoxycholic acid and poly-L-lactic acid, complement these strategies by inducing adipocytolysis and neocollagenesis, thereby improving skin firmness and contour. Evidence indicates that multi-active formulations combining lipolytic agents with antioxidants and collagen-stimulating molecules yield synergistic benefits, reducing adipose protrusion and improving skin firmness. However, heterogeneity in study design and the lack of standardised evaluation methods limit firm conclusions. Further studies should validate efficacy and optimise delivery. Integrated topical and injectable therapies represent a promising, multifunctional approach to addressing cellulite and age-related skin changes.

6 February 2026

Schematic representation of the key biomechanical, hormonal, vascular, inflammatory, and extracellular matrix (ECM) mechanisms contributing to cellulite development and progression. Female-specific vertical septal architecture, oestrogen-mediated connective-tissue weakening, and adipose expansion create a structural imbalance between fibrous septae and subcutaneous fat lobules. Microvascular and lymphatic dysfunction promote interstitial fluid accumulation, oedema, and local hypoxia, leading to chronic low-grade inflammation. Progressive ECM remodelling, collagen disorganisation, reduced dermal elasticity, and dermal thinning collectively accelerate skin ageing and fibrosis, resulting in the characteristic surface irregularities observed in cellulite.

This study demonstrates the effectiveness of ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using butylene glycol for recovering antioxidant bioactive compounds from Rosa damascena petals. Extraction was conducted using 40% (w/v) butylene glycol, a 15 min treatment, and a solid–liquid ratio of 1:50 g/mL. Under these conditions, butylene glycol-based UAE yielded a total flavonoid content of 51.26 ± 1.75 mg QE/g sample, significantly higher than that obtained with ethanol-based UAE (p < 0.05), while the total phenolic content (118.23 ± 4.86 mg GAE/g sample) showed no significant difference between solvents. Antioxidant capacity was also enhanced, with butylene glycol UAE exhibiting stronger DPPH radical scavenging activity (133.12 ± 4.81 mg TEAC/g sample) and higher FRAP values (8.13 ± 0.23 mg FeSO4/g sample) than ethanol-based UAE and conventional shaking extraction. Multivariate analyses, including principal component analysis, heatmap clustering, and Venn diagrams, revealed clear separation among extraction methods and a broader phytochemical profile in butylene glycol UAE extracts. LC-QTOF-ESI-MS/MS profiling confirmed a conserved core phenolic composition across all extracts, while butylene glycol UAE selectively enriched additional galloyl derivatives and conjugated flavonoids and also enabled the detection of less polar phenolics. These findings highlight butylene glycol-based UAE as a sustainable and industry-relevant alternative to ethanol extraction for cosmetic applications.

6 February 2026

Damask rose petals (R. damascena, cv. Mon Klai Kangwon), sourced from Baan Suan Yaa Noi, Chiang Rai Province, Thailand.

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure disrupts dermal collagen homeostasis and accelerates skin aging. This study evaluated the protective effects of black ginseng extract (BGE) against UV-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. BGE restored collagen-related markers, including COL5A1 and COL7A1, improved fibroblast proliferative capacity, and reduced senescence-associated changes under UV stress. Data-independent acquisition (DIA) proteomics identified broad pathway modulation by BGE, involving extracellular matrix remodeling, chromatin organization, and stress-response processes. To validate genome maintenance-related signals highlighted by proteomics, qPCR showed that BGE increased telomere/replication-associated genes compared with the UV group, including POT1 (2.29-fold) and ORC1 (6.70-fold). In addition, comet assay imaging indicated reduced UV-associated DNA damage features following BGE treatment. Overall, these findings indicate that BGE mitigates UV-induced photoaging phenotypes in fibroblasts, with collagen-related recovery and multi-level protective responses, supporting its potential as a natural bioactive ingredient for anti-photoaging skincare applications.

6 February 2026

Schematic illustration of protective mechanisms of BGE on collagen synthesis in chronic photoaging.

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New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry
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New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry

Editors: Ana Catarina Silva, Hugo Almeida, Ana Barros
Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research
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Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research

The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics - Volume II
Editors: Enzo Berardesca

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Cosmetics - ISSN 2079-9284