Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040162

Authors: Mohamed Addi Amine Elbouzidi Ahmed Marhri Laurine Garros Duangjai Tungmunnithum Malika Abid Christophe Hano

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) generates substantial agro-industrial by-products, such as press cake, seed, and oil, that remain underexploited despite their recognized phytochemical richness. This study reports the systematic optimization, characterization, and bioactivity profiling of flavonoid-rich extracts recovered from these three matrices. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) coupled with response surface methodology (RSM) was applied to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) of total flavonoid content (TFC) from press cake using a natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES: fructose–glycerol–sorbitol–water and FGSH), selected through an initial screening of fifteen solvent systems. The quadratic polynomial model showed excellent fit (R2 = 0.9852; R2adj = 0.9687; MAPE = 1.31%; Durbin–Watson = 1.857), and optimal extraction conditions were established at 37.6 min extraction time, 35.6% ultrasonic power, and 29.4 °C, yielding a maximum predicted TFC of 54.78 ± 0.49 mg quercetin equivalents (QE)/mL. HPLC-DAD analysis of the press cake extract revealed five isorhamnetin derivatives as the dominant flavonoids, with isorhamnetin-3-O-glucoside (23.18 ± 0.12 mg/g DW) and isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside (13.80 ± 0.28 mg/g DW) as the most abundant. Comprehensive bioactivity assessment demonstrated significant antioxidant capacities (CUPRAC: 191.35 ± 3.22 µM AAE; ORAC: 184.44 ± 3.44 µM TE; DPPH: 103.47 ± 9.98 µM TE for press cake extract), potent in cellulo ROS/RNS suppression in a yeast UV-stress model (85.9 ± 1.0% inhibition for press cake), and differential tyrosinase inhibition across fractions (press cake: 32.8%; seed: 57.5%; oil: 83.8%), highlighting the oil as a potent anti-melanogenic ingredient. In silico safety prediction (ProTox-II/pkCSM) confirmed the favorable toxicity profiles of all identified isorhamnetin derivatives (LD50 > 5000 mg/kg; Toxicity Class V). These results collectively position Opuntia ficus-indica by-products as high-value natural sources of bioactive flavonoids with applications in cosmetic, nutraceutical, and dermatological formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040161

Authors: Yun Haeng Lee Eun Young Jeong Ye Hyang Kim Sekyung Oh Jee Hee Yoon Ji Ho Park Yoo Jin Lee Duyeol Kim Byeonghyeon So Minseon Kim So Yeon Kim Hyung Wook Kwon Youngjoo Byun Song Seok Shin Joon Tae Park

In the original publication [...]

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030160

Authors: Youngrin Kwag Huijeong Jeong Yoori Kang Min Sook Jung Wonkyu Hong Hongseok Kim

This study validated a controlled in vivo test protocol using a patented particulate exposure chamber (Korean Patent No. 10-2020-0068941) to evaluate the anti-particulate adhesion efficacy of a cosmetic sunscreen formulation (SPF 50+, PA++++). The primary aim was methodological—to demonstrate that the chamber system can reliably detect differences in carbon black adhesion under standardised conditions. A split-site paired design was applied to 22 healthy adult females (mean age 60.3 ± 5.2 years; range 46–68 years). Carbon black particles (≤10 μm) were dispersed via a precision dual-stage pneumatic nozzle within a sealed chamber (22 ± 2 °C; 50 ± 5% RH). Between-group comparison was assessed by the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (primary) and the generalised estimating equation (GEE) model (complementary between-group comparison per institutional SOP). The treated site showed a 55.0% reduction in carbon black adhesion (treated: 4243 ± 2225 pixels; control: 9430 ± 4769 pixels, SE = 4.82, 95% CI: −64.4 to −45.6, Wald Z = −11.41, p < 0.001; Cohen’s d = 2.43). The Wilcoxon test confirmed the result independently (Z = −4.11, p < 0.001). All 22 subjects (100%) showed consistent reduction directionality (individual rates: 22.6–74.2%; mean 51.8%; median 52.3%). Bootstrap resampling (n = 10,000), outlier-exclusion, and exact sign test sensitivity analyses all confirmed robustness. These findings represent proof-of-concept methodological validation applied to a single product under accelerated exposure conditions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030159

Authors: Sandrine Bergera Virassamnaik Helena Polena Noëlle Remoué Benoît Cadars Elodie Prestat-Marquis Elodie Valin

Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether a dermocosmetic routine mitigates these effects. Methods: In a 3-day, open-label, intra-individual study, 66 adults with atopic skin underwent repeated forearm immersions (five cycles/day) in soft, hard, or chlorinated water. One forearm received a cleansing-oil and moisturising-balm routine after each cycle; the contralateral forearm served as untreated control. TEWL, hydration, and global discomfort were assessed. In a 21-day real-life study, adults with AD regularly exposed to hard domestic or swimming-pool water used the routine daily. Discomfort and quality of life were recorded. Results: Water immersion induced modest, inconsistent TEWL changes, increased hydration and slightly reduced discomfort, without differences between water types. The routine reduced TEWL, increased hydration, and decreased discomfort for all water types. In real life, it produced immediate and sustained improvements in discomfort and quality of life. Conclusions: Under controlled exposure, soft, hard, and chlorinated water exert comparable, limited effects on atopic skin. The dermocosmetic routine consistently improves barrier-related parameters and comfort, independently of water type.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030158

Authors: Theeraphan Chumroenphat Nattapong Wongchum Surapon Saensouk Kusawadee Plekratoke Panupong Mahalapbutr Khin Soe Win Saran Chaweerak Subramani Paranthaman Balasubramani Ananya Dechakhamphu

Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a traditional Thai longevity herbal formula composed of Albizia procera (Roxb.) Benth., Cyperus rotundus L., Diospyros rhodocalyx Kurz, Piper nigrum L., Streblus asper Lour., and Tinospora crispa (L.) Hook.f. & Thomson, has historically been used to promote vitality and healthy aging; however, its potential application as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient remains scientifically unexplored. Therefore, this study investigated the anti-aging potential of MKDK extract using integrated enzyme-based bioassays and in silico approaches. Phytochemical profiling of the ethanolic extract was performed using LC-MS analysis, revealing diverse bioactive constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic glycosides, alkaloids, and terpenoids, with (−)-epicatechin, procyanidin B1, and piperine identified as major metabolites. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays, while inhibitory activities against tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were assessed to determine skin anti-aging potential. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with IC50 values of 17.23 ± 2.11 µg/mL for DPPH and 11.87 ± 1.77 µg/mL for ABTS assays. In addition, the extract demonstrated inhibitory effects against tyrosinase (IC50 = 41.25 ± 1.56 µg/mL), elastase (IC50 = 49.51 ± 3.69 µg/mL), collagenase (IC50 = 61.54 ± 2.88 µg/mL), and hyaluronidase (IC50 = 63.74 ± 6.32 µg/mL), suggesting multifunctional anti-aging properties associated with skin brightening and extracellular matrix preservation. Network pharmacology analysis predicted multiple aging-related signaling pathways, particularly the FoxO signaling pathway, which is associated with oxidative stress regulation and longevity. Molecular docking analysis further demonstrated favorable binding affinities of procyanidin B1, epicatechin, and piperine toward skin-aging-related enzymes, supporting their potential contribution to the observed bioactivities. Overall, these findings suggest that MKDK possesses promising cosmeceutical potential as a natural multifunctional anti-aging ingredient and provides scientific support for the application of traditional Thai herbal formulations in cosmetic and skin health products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030157

Authors: Francesco Marchetti Matteo Basso Giuseppe Colombo Dissapong Panithaporn Maurizio Cavallini

Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological endpoint. Picrosirius red (PSR) staining under polarised light remains the most frequently used method for visualising collagen architecture; however, its birefringence colour patterns are often misinterpreted as proxies for collagen subtype shifts, particularly between types I and III. This conceptual review examines the methodological basis of such interpretations. We summarise the biological roles of major dermal collagens and compare current histochemical, immunohistochemical, ultrastructural and molecular methods for collagen assessment. We propose an interpretative framework that separates architectural collagen remodelling from molecular collagen synthesis and addresses the temporal dissociation between early fibre reorganisation and later subtype-specific expression as a plausible explanation for between-study discrepancies. Practical guidance is provided to support responsible interpretation and reporting of PSR-based collagen analyses. PSR is best regarded as a complementary tool for assessing collagen architecture rather than a definitive method for collagen subtype identification.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030156

Authors: Yoana Dimitrova Cleiton Kunzler Kristina Riegel Daniela Schäfer Christina Wollenburg Thomas Hengl Christian Hartmann

Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression of extracellular matrix (ECM) components. To this end, human dermal fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of CaHA microspheres. Cell migration, cell–microsphere interaction, and CaHA dose-dependent effects on the expression of ECM proteins were examined using microscopy, mRNA and protein expression analysis. Our results indicated that fibroblasts established direct and close contact to CaHA microspheres. This interaction was associated with a time- and dose-dependent increase in ECM protein expression, including collagen-1, emilin-1, elastin, fibulin-5, fibronectin, and the proteoglycans—lumican and versican. These observations indicate that direct contact between fibroblasts and CaHA microspheres promotes ECM protein expression, suggesting a role for this interaction in supporting skin regeneration and counteracting age-related changes, potentially augmented in vivo by immunomodulatory effects.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030155

Authors: Abdulaziz Balwi Tamer Koldas

Background: Follicular unit extraction (FUE) has become the dominant donor site harvesting technique in modern hair transplantation due to its ability to avoid linear scar formation and its procedural flexibility. However, the donor site is a limited non-regenerative source. Excessive or poorly planned extraction can lead to visible thinning, hypopigmented scarring, and reduced reserve for future procedures. Objective: This study aimed to synthesize current evidence on donor biology, preoperative assessment, extraction strategy, and complication prevention in FUE, and to propose a reproducible clinical framework for donor preservation. Methods: A structured narrative review was conducted using PubMed/MEDLINE, Scopus, and Google Scholar to identify English-language publications related to donor site biology, donor evaluation, extraction density thresholds, complication prevention, repeat session planning, and emerging FUE technologies. Priority was given to recent reviews, clinical trials, consensus statements, and practice-oriented surgical literature. Articles were selected not for formal meta-analytic pooling, but because of their relevance to donor conservation and long-term donor management. Results: The literature reviewed consistently identifies excessive local extraction density, harvesting beyond conservative limits, donor miniaturization, and inadequate reassessment before repeated procedures as the primary drivers of donor morbidity. Evidence from reviews, clinical trials, and expert guidelines supports conservative extraction thresholds, widespread spatial distribution, individualized donor mapping, and phased long-term planning as key strategies for preserving donor aesthetics and reserve. Conclusions: Donor preservation is central to ethical and sustainable FUE surgery. Integration of biologically informed assessment, disciplined extraction control, and mandatory reassessment protocols can reduce morbidity while preserving long-term graft flexibility in patients with progressive androgenetic alopecia.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030154

Authors: Elise Le Roux Mateja Senicar Emmanuelle Villedieu-Percheron Cyril Colas Mialy Randriantsoa Michel Pobeda Emilie Destandau

This study assessed the potential of Oleaster leaves as a valuable cosmetic ingredient by comparing aqueous and hydroalcoholic ultrasound-assisted extracts of Oleaster leaves to those of the Olive tree. The hydroalcoholic Oleaster leaf extract showed a higher content in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, with an oleuropein and verbascoside content of 58 mg/g of dry leaves and 3.2 mg/g of dry leaves, respectively. To refine the comparison of their molecular composition, the extracts were analyzed using UHPLC-HRMS/MS. About twenty compounds, including secoiridoids, flavonoids and triterpenic acid derivatives, were annotated in both extracts, demonstrating their similarity. DPPH, CUPRAC and enzymatic SOD assays showed a good antioxidant activity with high inhibition (60–90%) for both Oleaster and Olive tree leaf extracts. The hydroalcoholic extracts at 62.5 µg/mL also exhibited 60–80% of protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in H2O2-stressed HaCaT cells, confirming this antioxidant capacity without demonstrating a severe cytotoxicity, which remained below 40%. The anti-inflammatory potential of the extracts was also demonstrated using COX-2 inhibition, which was around 70%, and by measuring the concentration of IL-8 in HaCaT cells under pro-inflammatory conditions, which decreased in the presence of extracts at a concentration of 50 pg/mL, similar to that observed for the positive control. Thus, the hydroalcoholic ultrasound extract of Oleaster leaves demonstrated its high potential to develop sustainable and active cosmetic ingredients.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030153

Authors: Jiahuan Hu Yumei Fan Zirui He Chunhua Wei Yu Xie Shuo Shan Jinhua Li Yuan Yuan

Skin aging is a central focus of skin health. Supramolecular chemistry has emerged as a powerful strategy for enhancing the performance of cosmetic active ingredients. Adenosine is a promising anti-aging ingredient in skincare products, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor water solubility and low skin penetration. This study developed a supramolecular complex combining adenosine with ectoine through cocrystallization. The supramolecular assembly was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and density functional theory (DFT) calculations revealed extensive hydrogen-bonding networks between the components. The optimal supramolecular composition (1:1.5 molar ratio) achieved a 5.5-fold increase in water solubility. The supramolecular organization enhanced skin permeability by 3.1-fold in ex vivo porcine skin models. In fibroblast cell models, the supramolecular system exhibited superior antioxidant activity with 30.3% greater reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and restored cellular adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels by 2.1-fold under H2O2-induced oxidative stress compared to individual components. These findings demonstrate that the adenosine–ectoine supramolecular complex represents an innovative multifunctional ingredient for basic anti-aging cosmetics, offering enhanced delivery, improved safety, and superior biological efficacy through supramolecular engineering.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030152

Authors: Zicun Lin Min Xiao Na Li Libin Tu Hao Shi Menghui Li Lixia Yuan Xiangyu Li

Background: N-Acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac), the predominant form of sialic acid, exhibits potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycation properties in preclinical studies, suggesting potential dermatological benefits. However, robust clinical evidence supporting the efficacy of oral Neu5Ac supplementation on human skin conditions remains lacking. Methods: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial was conducted with 55 Chinese women (40–65 years) who received 120 mg/day Neu5Ac (n = 27) or a matching placebo (n = 28) for 84 days. Skin pigmentation, hydration, biomechanical properties, and dermis echogenicity were evaluated at baseline, D28, D56, and D84 using standardized clinical and instrumental assessments. Results: Both clinical (Pantone color card) and instrumental (photographic) assessments showed that oral Neu5Ac supplementation significantly improved skin lightness on both pigmentary spots and surrounding normal skin compared with placebo at day 84. In addition, stratum corneum hydration and skin biologic extensibility were significantly increased in the Neu5Ac group. Dermal echogenicity showed numerical improvement but did not reach statistical significance. Self-assessment indicated that 100% of the Neu5Ac participants reported improvements in skin whiteness, radiance, elasticity, firmness, and hydration, with mean satisfaction scores of 9.1/10 versus 7.9/10 for placebo. Conclusions: Daily oral supplementation with 120 mg Neu5Ac for 84 days significantly promoted localized spot brightening, enhanced skin hydration, and improved skin elasticity, providing the first clinical evidence supporting Neu5Ac as a safe and effective oral cosmetic ingredient for skin anti-aging.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030151

Authors: Alexandra M. Maldonado López Ivan Domicio da Silva Souza

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation disorder that significantly impacts quality of life. Given the persistent challenges in melasma management, there is a need to evaluate therapies that may offer long-term treatment. This descriptive review analyzes interventional clinical studies involving melasma patients and placebo or hydroquinone (HQ) comparators published between 2014 and 2024. Two human authors screened studies and extracted data, with artificial intelligence used as a human-supervised support tool for screening assistance, data extraction, and discussion synthesis. Study limitations were evaluated descriptively. Treatments were grouped into five categories: HQ-based Standard Treatments, Isolated Molecules as Depigmenting Therapies, Botanical and Antioxidant-Based Therapies, Regenerative and Microenvironment-Modulating Therapies, and Procedure-Assisted and Combination Treatments. HQ remained a key benchmark, although recurrence and tolerability limitations were frequently observed. Several non-HQ or adjunctive approaches demonstrated benefit when administered orally, topically, intradermally, or via iontophoresis. Botanical antioxidants, synbiotics, epidermal growth factor, and platelet-rich plasma also showed promising efficacy. Nevertheless, the evidence base was constrained by small sample sizes, heterogeneous comparators, inconsistent endpoints, mixed objective and subjective assessments, and variable follow-up durations, which prevented meta-analysis. Research on melasma treatment is growing worldwide, with several promising non-HQ and adjunctive strategies emerging. However, standardization of outcomes, comparator selection, and longer follow-up periods is needed to clarify efficacy, tolerability, and relapse prevention throughout diverse skin tones.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030150

Authors: Min-Seo Kim Jang-Hee Hahn

The vitamin D receptor (VDR) plays a pivotal role in maintaining epidermal barrier homeostasis and regulating cutaneous inflammatory responses. However, the cosmetic application of vitamin D and its active metabolites is limited by photoinstability, formulation challenges, and regulatory considerations. In this study, we evaluated a synthetic VDR-activating peptide (VDR-Pep) as a potential functional cosmetic ingredient capable of modulating VDR-associated signaling pathways in human keratinocytes. In situ proximity ligation assays (PLAs) demonstrated that VDR-Pep enhanced the heterodimerization of VDR and retinoid X receptor (RXR), indicating activation of canonical VDR signaling. Treatment with VDR-Pep significantly increased the expression of S100A3 and key terminal differentiation markers, including filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin, in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, VDR-Pep stimulated intracellular calcium mobilization at levels comparable to or exceeding those induced by 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3. Under UVB-induced stress conditions, the peptide attenuated the expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 (IL-6) and enhanced NRF2-associated transcriptional engagement, as evidenced by increased interaction between NRF2 and RNA polymerase II. Collectively, these findings suggest that VDR-Pep supports epidermal homeostasis through coordinated modulation of VDR/RXR signaling, calcium-mediated differentiation, barrier-related protein expression, inflammatory responses, and antioxidant-associated pathways. The results indicate that VDR-targeting peptides may represent a promising non-hormonal strategy for cosmetic formulations aimed at reinforcing skin barrier function and improving resilience to environmental stress. Future studies should focus on validating these effects in in vivo human skin models, assessing long-term safety and efficacy, and optimizing formulation stability for practical cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030149

Authors: Nikolaos Bikiaris Nikoleta Kioleoglou Nikolaos Nikolaidis

In the present work, oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions containing nanolignin (NL) at 0.35, 1, and 2% w/w were developed using a single multifunctional nanoadditive concept, whereby NL simultaneously acts as an antioxidant, rheology modifier, and color/sunscreen booster. Nanolignin was characterized by FTIR, DLS, and SEM, confirming its chemical structure and nanoscale particle size. The emulsions were evaluated in terms of pH and viscosity stability, rheological behavior, colorimetric CIELAB parameters, DPPH radical scavenging activity, and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). Incorporation of NL led to a slight pH decrease relative to the blank formulation, while maintaining values within the acceptable cosmetic range (pH 4–6), and yielded emulsions with excellent pH and viscosity stability over 28 days of storage. Increasing the NL concentration modified the rheological profile and viscosity, as well as the L*, a*, and b* color coordinates, enabling tunable visual appearance and texture. All formulations exhibited high antioxidant capacity; notably, the NL_1% emulsion displayed higher radical scavenging activity than the NL_2% system, underscoring a non-linear structure–property relationship. SPF values ranged between 14.09 ± 0.875 and 22.29 ± 1.719, demonstrating that nanolignin can enhance photoprotective performance. Overall, this study highlights the potential of nanolignin as a single multifunctional nanoadditive for designing stable, antioxidant, and photoprotective cosmetic O/W emulsions with adjustable rheology and color.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030148

Authors: Arielle Springer Claudia Gras Willi Moor

Background: Squalene is a key sebum lipid that plays an important role in skin barrier function, suppleness, and antioxidant protection. Age-related or disease-associated reductions in squalene levels—for example, in atopic dermatitis—reduce skin resilience and increase susceptibility to environmental stressors. However, its oxidation products can have inflammatory, comedogenic, and pro-aging effects on the skin, which is why adequate stabilization is essential when used in topical formulations. Objective: Therefore, identifying sustainable sources of stable squalene with beneficial skin-care properties is of considerable interest. Methods: This review employed an application-focused literature search and comparative analysis of established and new squalene sources, evaluating chemical composition, manufacturing processes, stability, and biological effects following topical applications based on predefined analytical criteria across peer-reviewed studies. Results: Silphium oil appears to be a promising novel source of highly concentrated, sustainable, and stable squalene with potential skin-conditioning properties at concentrations typically used in cosmetic products (2.1–12.6%) while preliminary formulation tests indicate emulsifiability even at concentrations up to 15%. It contains over 3% squalene, a fatty acid profile with over 66% PUFA, and negligible levels of oxidation byproducts (hexanal < 3 ppm) even after years of storage in various types of packaging. Although independent validation and broader comparative studies are limited, these results reveal new possibilities for the use of previously underutilized plant sources in skin care applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030147

Authors: Nonhlanhla Mhlongo S’busiso Nkosi Nokukhanya Thembane Julian Mthombeni

Indigenous clays are widely used for facial skincare in South Africa, yet their suitability for cosmetic incorporation remains poorly characterised, particularly with respect to elemental safety. This study assessed two traditionally applied clays for acne-prone skin (Umcako and Ibomvu) using a multi-analytical workflow encompassing colorimetry, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), pH measurement, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) estimation, X-ray fluorescence (XRF), and inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) of clay leachates. XRD showed both materials to be kaolinite-dominated, with higher kaolinite content in Umcako (92.5 wt%) than in Ibomvu (77.3 wt%); SEM revealed characteristic overlapping pseudo-hexagonal platelets, and FT-IR did not indicate prominent organic functional groups under the conditions tested. The clays were mildly acidic (pH 4.23–4.48), aligning with physiological skin pH, but exhibited low photoprotective performance when assessed alone (SPF ≈ 2.5–2.6). Elemental screening identified nutritionally relevant trace minerals but also detected regulated or sensitising metals, with Ibomvu showing elevated bulk Pb (53 ± 12 ppm), Ni (126 ± 71 ppm) and Zn (72 ± 26 ppm), while Umcako contained elevated bulk Cr (460 ± 140 ppm) and Pb (18 ± 6 ppm). Overall, although Umcako and Ibomvu display physicochemical properties compatible with clay-based cosmetic products, their heavy metal burden, together with the potential for dermal exposure highlighted by leachate analysis, indicates that purification, batch-to-batch monitoring and regulatory risk assessment are essential before safe cosmetic use.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030146

Authors: Rungsima Wanitphakdeedecha Noldtawat Viriyaskultorn Stephanie De Leon Thrit Hutachoke Thanyaporn Leesanguankul Panyapat Buranaporn Teerapat Wannawittayapa

Background: A novel day–night facial serum regimen combining antioxidants, hydration-enhancing agents, and bioactive compounds has been developed to address skin aging. Objective: The aim is to explore changes in skin aging parameters and assess the safety and tolerability of a day-and-night facial serum combination. Methods: In this single-arm, non-randomized, prospective, open-label study, 30 participants aged 35–55 years applied a day facial serum (DFS) and a night facial serum (NFS) for 8 weeks. Objective assessments included skin texture and depression (Antera 3D®), elasticity and firmness (Cutometer®), hydration (Corneometer®), TEWL (Tewameter®), melanin index (Mexameter®), and brightness (Colorimeter®). Evaluations were performed at baseline, at 1 month and 2 months after treatment start, and at 1 month post-treatment. Results: Thirty participants (Fitzpatrick III–IV) completed the study. Significant improvements in skin texture (p = 0.002) and reduction in skin depression (−22.7%, p < 0.001) were observed after 2 months. Skin firmness increased significantly at 1 month (p < 0.001) and remained elevated post-treatment (p = 0.008). The melanin index decreased at 1 month (p = 0.048), while hydration declined after discontinuation (p = 0.016). TEWL showed a significant overall time effect; however, no Bonferroni-adjusted pairwise comparison versus baseline was significant. No significant changes were observed in elasticity or brightness. Mild transient burning was the most common adverse event. Other reported adverse events included acne, miliaria rubra, oiliness, and mild itching; all were non-serious and did not result in treatment discontinuation. Conclusions: The combined DFS and NFS regimen was well tolerated and was associated with favorable changes in skin texture and firmness. Transient local reactions, particularly mild burning sensation, were commonly reported but did not result in treatment discontinuation. Further controlled studies are warranted to confirm these observations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030145

Authors: Mireya Suárez-Pérez Octavio Dublán-García Ana Gabriela Morachis-Valdez Karinne Saucedo-Vence Manuel Reinhart Kirchmayr Francisco Antonio López-Medina Guadalupe López-García Ángel Santillán-Álvarez Gerardo Heredia-García Daniel Díaz-Bandera Roxana Valdés-Ramos

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit involving follicular hyperkeratinization, altered sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, microbiome imbalance, and immune activation. Although antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and keratolytic agents remain central to clinical management, their long-term use may be limited by irritation, recurrence, adherence issues, and increasing antimicrobial resistance. This narrative review critically evaluates the dermatological relevance of Melaleuca alternifolia tea tree essential oil (TTEO), Mentha piperita peppermint essential oil (PPEO), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), as well as their incorporation into biopolymeric delivery systems for acne-oriented topical applications. Following SANRA principles, evidence from clinical, preclinical, ex vivo, and in vitro studies was synthesized, with emphasis on antimicrobial activity, inflammatory modulation, keratolytic and barrier-supportive effects, formulation stability, and release behavior. TTEO shows the strongest clinical support among the reviewed natural bioactives, including reductions in lesion counts and acne severity when applied as conventional or nanoemulsion-based formulations. PPEO is mainly supported by experimental evidence, particularly antimicrobial activity against acne-associated microorganisms, anti-inflammatory potential, and menthol-related neurocutaneous effects, whereas acne-specific clinical validation remains limited. PHAs, particularly gluconolactone, are better supported for barrier improvement, hydration, tolerability, and seboregulation than for direct acne lesion reduction. Hydrogels, electrospun nanofibers, polymeric films, nanoencapsulation systems, and controlled-release platforms may improve local retention, protect volatile or irritation-prone compounds, and modulate active release at the skin surface. However, most biopolymeric platforms still rely on early-stage or indirect dermatological evidence. Overall, biopolymeric delivery systems offer a rational formulation strategy to improve the stability, tolerability, and localized action of selected acne-relevant bioactives, but their clinical translation requires standardized composition, reproducible fabrication, skin-relevant release assays, safety assessment, and controlled human studies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030144

Authors: Michelle Maria Gonçalves Barão de Aguiar Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto Maria Valéria Robles Velasco André Rolim Baby

Brazil is characterized by high levels of solar exposure, which may compromise skin health due to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), particularly among individuals with darker skin tones who often underuse photoprotective measures. Although darker skin has been hypothesized to exhibit greater resistance to UVR, robust evidence remains limited. This study aimed to investigate the susceptibility of the stratum corneum (SC) of Black individuals to UV-induced lipid peroxidation using the HPLC–TBARS–EVSC protocol. SC samples were collected from the forearms of nine participants by tape stripping and subsequently exposed to an artificial UV radiation source. Lipid peroxidation was quantified through the detection of the malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid (MDA-TBA2) adduct using high-performance liquid chromatography. Following UV exposure, a statistically significant increase in lipid peroxidation was observed, corresponding to an approximate 297% elevation in MDA-TBA2 levels (p < 0.05). These findings demonstrate that the SC of Black skin is susceptible to UV-induced oxidative damage under the tested conditions. The results support the use of phototype-independent biochemical markers to assess photodamage and reinforce the need for effective photoprotection strategies in individuals with darker skin tones.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030143

Authors: Ralf Jäger Martin Purpura Sebastian T. Balcombe Daniel Molina Lucía Fernández David González Alejandro Pérez-Fernández

Polyphenol-rich botanical extracts have emerged as promising nutricosmetic interventions against signs of skin aging. Fruit polyphenols improve skin appearance, while biotin plays a recognized role in keratin synthesis and hair follicle metabolism, yet their combined effects have not been evaluated. This study assessed the effects of a red- and blackcurrant polyphenol with biotin supplement (RiboBeauty®) in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Fifty-four women were randomized, and fifty-two were eligible for the efficacy analyses (Placebo, n = 27; Supplement, n = 25). Over 12 weeks, wrinkle morphology and skin roughness were quantified by 3D imaging and hair shedding by a combing test. For skin roughness, mean local peak-to-peak amplitude (Stm) showed significant within-group reductions in the supplement group at D56 (−4.897%; p = 0.0489) and D84 (−6.558%; p = 0.0491), without significant between-group differences. Hair shedding was significantly lower in the Supplement group versus Placebo at D28 (−30.90%; p = 0.0203) and D56 (−41.58%; p = 0.0158), although the treatment × time interaction was not significant. The crow’s feet wrinkle area showed numerically (but non-statistically significant) lower values in the supplement group than in the placebo group at all post-baseline visits. Overall, these findings indicate a favorable efficacy signal, while the limited demonstration of statistically significant placebo superiority across the main skin outcomes warrants cautious interpretation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030142

Authors: Valentin I. Sharobaro Donia Abbasi Dmitry A. Sidorenkov Yury V. Ivanov Mikhail V. Anurov Zoriy Grigoryan Ilya Y. Aristov

Introduction: Standard abdominoplasty inevitably causes scarring in the umbilical region. Given the aesthetic significance of the navel, as the central anatomical landmark of the anterior abdominal wall, techniques that preserve the natural anatomy are warranted. The criteria for patient selection for such operations remain poorly defined, limiting their clinical application. Objective: The aim of this study was to define the indications and contraindications for scarless abdominoplasty in the umbilical region through a comparative analysis of clinical and subjective outcomes. Materials and Methods: A comparative study was conducted involving 115 patients operated on between 2021 and 2026. The experimental group consisted of 32 patients who underwent abdominoplasty without scarring in the umbilical region, while the control group comprised 83 patients who underwent standard abdominoplasty with umbilical transposition. The technique of scarless abdominoplasty in the umbilical region entailed limited mobilization of the cutaneous–subcutaneous flap, energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction in the supraumbilical region, suturing of rectus abdominis diastasis when clinically indicated, and fixation of the umbilicus in its physiological position without a skin incision around it. Energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction permits skin contraction in the supraumbilical area through a controlled internal thermal effect. The incidence of complications and BODY-Q questionnaire outcomes were evaluated at 3 months, 6 months, and one year. No significant differences in baseline clinical characteristics were observed between the groups. Results: The overall rate of postoperative complications in the experimental group was 18.8% (n = 6), compared to 24.1% (n = 20) in the control group; the difference was not statistically significant (p > 0.05). According to the BODY-Q questionnaire, patients in the experimental group reported significantly higher satisfaction with scar appearance (91.0 ± 3.5 vs. 83.0 ± 5.7; p < 0.001) and the umbilical region. The umbilicus retained its anatomically natural shape and depth. The use of energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction in the supraumbilical area contributed to the contraction of the upper cutaneous–subcutaneous flap, which made it possible to prevent extensive mobilization and the formation of a significant scar around the umbilicus in these patients. Conclusions: Scarless abdominoplasty in the umbilical region is a safe and effective technique in appropriately selected patients. Energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction produces an internal thermal effect that enhances the contraction of the cutaneous flap. Indications for this method comprise a moderate amount of excess skin tissue in the supraumbilical region, preserved skin elasticity, a normal or high umbilical position, and rectus abdominis diastasis grade I–II. Contraindications include pronounced excess skin tissue in the supraumbilical region, a low umbilical position, and general somatic contraindications to surgery.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030141

Authors: Florina Popa Cristina Stanescu Ana Maria Zavtoni Mariana Zavtoni

Nowadays, technology is developing so rapidly that it implicitly drives economic growth by increasing the productivity of artificial products. Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are increasingly recognized as emerging contaminants in cosmetic formulations, raising concerns about their ability to alter hormonal homeostasis through long-term, low-dose exposure. The objective of this systematic review is to synthesize current evidence on the presence, mechanisms of action, and health effects of endocrine-disrupting chemicals commonly found in cosmetic formulations, as well as existing regulatory frameworks and gaps in consumer protection. A systematic search across major scientific databases for studies published between 2000 and March 2026 was conducted in accordance with PRISMA guidelines, yielding 102 eligible studies. The most commonly identified endocrine disruptors were parabens, phthalates, benzophenones, and triclosan. Evidence shows that these compounds can mimic or block endogenous hormones, disrupt estrogenic, androgenic, and thyroid pathways, and contribute to reproductive, metabolic, and developmental disturbances. Several studies reported bioaccumulation in human tissues and measurable internal exposure with higher vulnerability in pregnant women and adolescents. Current evidence supports a biologically plausible and clinically relevant association between exposure to cosmetic-derived endocrine disruptors and adverse health outcomes. Despite regulatory progress, major gaps persist in long-term exposure assessment, mixture toxicity, and cumulative real-world risk. Strengthening surveillance, harmonizing international regulations, and encouraging safer cosmetic formulations remain essential to reducing population exposure. Although regulatory measures have been introduced, comprehensive protocols for the use of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics are still under development; additional targeted research is required to refine health risk assessments and strengthen regulatory frameworks.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030140

Authors: Nataša Bubić Pajić Teodora Trninić Darija Knežević Ratković Vesna Antunović Katarina Šavikin Jelena Živković Ranko Škrbić

Pomegranate peel, an abundant agro-industrial by-product, represents a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols, particularly punicalagin, which has been associated with antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This study aimed to develop microemulsions (MEs) containing pomegranate peel extract for dermal delivery of punicalagin using biocompatible surfactant systems. Three MEs differing in surfactant–cosurfactant composition (ME-A, ME-P, and ME-E) were prepared. Each formulation solubilized 1% (w/w) of pomegranate peel extract and was evaluated regarding in vitro release behavior, skin permeation/retention, antioxidant activity, and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). All investigated MEs provided sustained release of punicalagin (≈10–17% of the applied dose in 8 h). ME-A, based on an alkyl polyglucoside surfactant, showed a significantly higher cumulative release of punicalagin (60.4 µg/cm2) compared with ME-E and ME-P. In skin penetration/permeation studies, ME-A also exhibited the highest numerical total delivery of punicalagin (≈48.2 µg/cm2 after 24 h), although differences among formulations were not statistically significant. All formulations demonstrated high antioxidant activity in the DPPH assay and measurable in vitro photoprotective potential, with SPF values ranging from approximately 11 to 14. Overall, pomegranate peel extract-loaded MEs showed potential as dermal delivery systems capable of improving solubilization and modulating skin delivery of punicalagin. The combination of agro-waste-derived bioactives with biocompatible surfactants highlights the potential of these systems as sustainable approaches for skincare formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030139

Authors: Paola Tatiana Espinosa Cruel Camila Pascoal Correia dos Santos Daniela Vieira Buchaim Silvia Yaoska Caldera González Geraldo Marco Rosa Junior Camila Aparecida Ribeiro Carlos Henrique Bertoni Reis Rogerio Leone Buchaim

Skin aging is a complex biological process characterized by progressive alterations in the dermal microenvironment, including extracellular matrix (ECM) disorganization, fibroblast dysfunction, and changes in the biomechanical properties of the tissue. In this context, biomaterials used in regenerative aesthetic medicine have been widely employed with the aim of stimulating dermal remodeling processes. This review aimed to analyze the main biomaterials currently used in clinical practice, including calcium hydroxyapatite, poly-L-lactic acid, polycaprolactone, polynucleotides, polydeoxyribonucleotide, and nano-hydroxyapatite, focusing on their biological mechanisms and interactions with the cutaneous microenvironment. The available literature suggests that the effects of these materials are not limited to collagen induction, but also involve modulation of fibroblast activity, extracellular matrix reorganization, and progressive tissue remodeling processes. However, relevant limitations remain in the scientific literature, including methodological heterogeneity among studies and the scarcity of evidence directly clarifying the cellular mechanisms involved. Therefore, advances in this field depend on the integration of experimental research, histological analysis, and well-controlled clinical investigation, as well as a deeper understanding of cellular biology and extracellular matrix dynamics.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030138

Authors: Youngrin Kwag Seok Hwan Oh HuiJeong Jeong YooRi Kang Min Sook Jung Hongseok Kim Wonkyu Hong

Conventional cosmetic human studies rely on pre–post mean comparisons, which have limitations in explaining where and how facial skin changes occur. This pilot single-arm study proposed a privacy-preserving three-dimensional (3D) facial mesh mapping framework and demonstrated its application using an illustrative dataset obtained from participants who used a polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN)-containing cosmetic. Twenty-two participants underwent facial skin assessments before and after product use. Conventional analysis included pre–post comparisons of elasticity-related parameters. Additionally, 3D facial images obtained via stereophotogrammetry were converted into de-identified mesh surfaces, spatially aligned between time points, and visualized using color-coded heatmaps. For each participant, the left facial panel displayed changes in a skin hydration permittivity index, while the right panel displayed changes in the R2 gross elasticity parameter (Ua/Uf). Overall mean values tended to increase after product use; however, the 3D visualization revealed heterogeneous spatial patterns undetectable via mean values. This method improved spatial matching, enabled intuitive regional comparison, and reduced privacy concerns by removing identifiable facial features. The privacy-preserving 3D facial mesh mapping (P3DMM) framework may serve as a complementary tool for cosmetic human studies, enabling the generation of structured, de-identified spatial datasets for future skin response research.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030137

Authors: Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso Fernando Yutaka de Ferreira Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa Maria P. M. Marques Ana Luísa Correia Brandão Natalia Alves Zoppe Kássia Aiko Asano-Miyashiro Guilherme Justiniano-Mizumoto João Tadeu Ribeiro-Paes Valdecir Farias Ximenes Lucinéia dos Santos

Considering the rich biodiversity of plant species in the Amazon region and the importance of investigating their medicinal properties as a means of valuing and preserving this biome, this study aimed to evaluate the phytochemical profile, cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of the hydroalcoholic extract of Byrsonima crassifolia leaves (HEBC). Phytochemical analysis revealed high concentrations of phenols, with emphasis on condensed tannins. In addition, the presence of catechin, a precursor of condensed tannins, was analyzed and characterized by HPLC. The cytotoxic evaluation demonstrated the absence of cytotoxicity of HEBC at concentrations of 100, 200 and 400 µg/mL at all times analyzed. Finally, HEBC exhibited strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities, likely associated with the presence of catechin. Therefore, with the aim of enhancing the value of Byrsonima crassifolia and promoting its sustainable use, HEBC emerges as a promising candidate for the development of a novel phytotherapeutic agent. In future studies, HEBC is intended to be incorporated into specific formulations and subjected to further analyses to confirm its therapeutic efficacy and safety.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030136

Authors: Hyeonjung Jung Da-Hye Gam Su-In Kwon Dong-Hyun Kim Joonseok Cha

The demand for naturally derived ingredients in cosmetics is constantly growing, with marine algae emerging as promising candidates due to their rich antioxidant and protective metabolites. Skin aging, driven by oxidative stress, impaired hydration, and weakening of the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ), manifests as dryness, loss of elasticity, and reduced density. Conventional synthetic antioxidants raise safety concerns, highlighting the need for effective natural alternatives. Ecklonia cava, an edible brown seaweed abundant in phlorotannins, has been reported to possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, yet its effects on key molecular markers of hydration and DEJ integrity remain underexplored. In this study, we standardized an E. cava extract (ECE) and evaluated its antioxidant activity, gene regulatory effects, and clinical efficacy. ECE was standardized by measuring total polyphenols and flavonoids, evaluated by DPPH scavenging assay, and shown to upregulate DEJ-related genes, reinforcing dermal–epidermal cohesion. A randomized clinical trial further confirmed that topical application of ECE improved hydration, elasticity, and density compared with placebo, with benefits evident within weeks. Collectively, these findings establish ECE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient capable of protecting the skin while enhancing structural and functional aspects of skin health, supporting its potential application in anti-aging skincare.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030135

Authors: Chiara Leonardi Claudia Sciacca Vera Muccilli Nunzio Cardullo Debora Santonocito Carmelo Puglia

(1) Background: Grape pomace (GP), a major by-product of winemaking, is a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, although their instability limits cosmetic applications. This study aimed to valorize GP through a green extraction process and improve its incorporation and apparent stability in cosmetic formulations through SLN-based systems. (2) Methods: GP extracts were obtained using an eco-friendly extraction method and encapsulated using a W/O/W double emulsion-solvent evaporation technique; nanoparticles were characterized (size, polydispersity, zeta potential) and incorporated into cosmetic formulations compared with a blank and a formulation containing free extract. (3) Results: GP-SLNs exhibited suitable physicochemical properties and preserved antioxidant activity, as confirmed by DPPH and ORAC assays; SLN incorporation appeared to preliminarily improve the photostability profile of the formulation under UVA irradiation conditions; in vivo tests showed enhanced skin hydration and moderate occlusivity, while stability studies confirmed consistent color, odor, pH, and viscosity over 60 days; microbiological analyses demonstrated safety and concentration-dependent antimicrobial activity. (4) Conclusions: SLN encapsulation preserved GP bioactivity and improved formulation stability and performance, supporting its potential use in multifunctional cosmetic products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030134

Authors: Mari Suto Hirofumi Masutomi Katsuyuki Ishihara

Oxidative stress contributes to skin aging. Potato peels contain various functional components, and potato peel extract (PPE) promotes type I collagen synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). In this study, we investigated the effects of PPE under oxidative stress conditions. NHDFs were exposed to hydrogen peroxide, followed by treatment with PPE prepared by ethanol extraction of potato peel residues. Exposure to hydrogen peroxide reduced type I collagen secretion in NHDF. However, this reduction was suppressed by the addition of PPE. The expression level of the type I collagen gene, COL1A2, showed a tendency to improve with PPE treatment. The promotion of collagen synthesis by PPE appears to involve the TGFBR2, ERK, and Akt signaling pathways. PPE also reduced the increased production of MMP-1 induced by hydrogen peroxide exposure and suppressed the upregulation of AP-1, a transcription factor upstream of MMP-1. While PPE exhibited antioxidant activity at high concentrations, it did not reduce intracellular ROS levels at the concentrations used for cell treatment. These findings suggest that PPE suppresses the reduction in collagen levels under oxidative stress conditions by promoting type I collagen synthesis and modulating MMP-1/AP-1/TIMP-1-related pathways, suggesting decreased collagen breakdown under oxidative stress conditions. PPE may serve as a potential material for maintaining collagen levels.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030133

Authors: Maria Teresa Truchuelo-Díez Ana López-Sánchez Luisa Haya Juan José Andrés-Lencina María Vitale

Background: Retinol has consistently demonstrated efficacy in improving signs of skin aging. However, recent European Union regulations have limited its cosmetic concentration to 0.3%, creating the need for new formulations to be capable of maintaining high efficacy, safety, and tolerance. Material and Methods: This clinical study aimed to evaluate and compare the rejuvenating effects and tolerance of a 0.5% retinol serum with a new equivalent technology, Retinduo®, which previously showed promising preclinical results. A single-center, prospective, randomized, controlled, double-blind, two-arm parallel study was conducted in 40 Caucasian women aged 38–60 years with moderate photoaging (Glogau II). A total of 20 participants applied Retinduo® serum and 20 applied retinol 0.5%, following a progressive application protocol. Clinical and instrumental assessments measured hydration, firmness, elasticity, tone homogeneity, melanin levels, skin roughness, wrinkle parameters, and stratum corneum thickness. Results and Discussion: Both formulations significantly improved hydration, firmness, and elasticity from day 28 onward. Retinduo® showed a significant increase in viscoelasticity (R8) from day 56, while retinol 0.5% did not demonstrate significant changes in this parameter. Melanin reduction was observed with Retinduo® at days 28 and 56 and with retinol 0.5% just at day 28. Although a reduction in melanin was observed with both ingredients, the reduction was more significant with Retinduo® at 56 days. Both treatments reduced the thickness of the stratum corneum; however, with Retinduo®, a significant and more pronounced reduction was achieved after 3 months of treatment (30% (p = 0.0001) vs. 12% (p = 0.033). Retinduo® demonstrated significant wrinkle depth reduction at day 28 and in wrinkle amplitude (width and length of wrinkles) at the end of treatment, while 0.5% retinol showed a positive trend in this parameter. Both products exhibited excellent tolerance. Conclusions: Overall, Retinduo® achieved comparable or slightly superior anti-aging effects while aligning with current European regulatory limits.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030132

Authors: Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik Agata Wawrzyńczak

The evolution of naturally originated fine chemicals within the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors is currently marked by a strategic shift from petrochemical feedstocks toward a sustainable, bio-based circular economy [...]

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030131

Authors: Gabrielle Costa Elisa Silva Fátima Silva Ana Casas Bernardo Bastos Clévio Nóbrega Maria Beatriz P. P. Oliveira Hugo Almeida

The integration of exosomes into professional cosmetics marks a significant paradigm shift from traditional passive formulations to advanced regenerative esthetics. Rather than being defined solely by their nanometric dimensions or classical association with endosomal biogenesis, these vesicles function as highly targeted intercellular messengers capable of delivering complex bioactive payloads to modulate tissue repair and collagen synthesis. While robust preclinical and clinical trials validate their remarkable potential in skin rejuvenation, hair restoration, and hyperpigmentation management, significant translational barriers remain. A critical analysis of the current literature reveals that successful clinical outcomes frequently rely on physical penetration enhancers, such as microneedling or fractional lasers, making it challenging to isolate the autonomous efficacy of topical vesicles from the trauma-induced regenerative response. Furthermore, commercial viability is dictated by stringent regulatory frameworks. In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 strictly prohibits human-derived biologicals, while the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) aggressively monitors the unsubstantiated marketing of cellular therapies. To navigate these biosafety and legal constraints, the aesthetic industry is increasingly pivoting toward non-human and legally compliant alternatives. Consequently, Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles (PDEVs), microbiome-derived exosomes (such as those obtained from bacterial fermentation), and bioengineered synthetic analogues have become the focal point of market innovation. A practical evaluation of the MCCM Medical Cosmetics portfolio illustrates this strategic shift, demonstrating the clinical versatility of botanical sources. To secure the long-term credibility of exosome technology, the industry must overcome current manufacturing heterogeneity by aligning with international standardization frameworks, such as the MISEV2023 guidelines, thereby ensuring reliable delivery systems, batch-to-batch consistency, and uncompromised consumer safety. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the biological mechanisms, clinical efficacy, and translational challenges associated with exosome-based cosmetics.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030128

Authors: Elena Zappia Giovanni Cannarozzo Luca Guarino Mario Sannino Luca Gargano Giuseppe Rizzuto Alessandro Clementi Ester Del Duca Annunziata Dattola Giovanni Pellacani Steven Paul Nisticò

Background: Solar lentigines are common epidermal hyperpigmented macules associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure and photoaging. Objective: To describe a standardized 532 nm green laser protocol for solar lentigines and to place these observations within a narrative review with a structured PubMed/Medline literature search. Methods: Five patients (two women and three men; age range 42–65 years, mean 53.6 years; Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II–III) with solar lentigines underwent treatment with a 532 nm green laser (QuadroStarPRO GREEN, Asclepion) using a standardized, single-session protocol. Outcomes were assessed at the final available follow-up (day 21) by 2 independent dermatologists using a retrospective categorical response classification (complete response/partial response/no response) based on paired baseline and day 21 image documentation only; patient satisfaction was recorded at day 21 on a 0–10 visual analog scale (VAS). A narrative review with a structured PubMed/Medline literature search was conducted to identify clinical studies evaluating 532 nm KTP/green laser devices for lentigines, freckles, and ephelides. Results: All five target lesions were classified as complete response at day 21 (5/5 complete response), with a mean VAS satisfaction score of 8.6/10 (range, 7–10) and no discordance between dermatologists. Mild transient erythema was observed immediately after treatment and improved within the first day; no persistent adverse events, dyschromia, or scarring were observed during the available 21-day follow-up. Conclusions: In this small case series, a single-session millisecond 532 nm green laser protocol was associated with complete-response classification at day 21 in five target lesions. Published clinical studies indicate that outcomes with 532 nm devices vary with device type, pulse structure, and treatment settings; larger comparative studies with objective pigment measures and longer follow-ups are needed.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030130

Authors: Julie Rossero Maxime Nollet Nicolas Ritter Jean-David Rodier

The cosmetics industry continually seeks innovations that deliver ever-higher performance while meeting growing sustainability requirements. Although numerous plant-derived surfactants have recently emerged, achieving performance levels comparable to synthetic benchmarks remains challenging. In this study, we aimed to design a natural polyglycerol-10 ester (PG-10 ester) capable of stabilizing demanding systems such as high-internal-phase nano-emulsions (nano-HIPE) and mineral oil-in-water sunscreens. We investigated the key parameters governing surfactant efficiency: fatty acid composition from C12 to C22 or their blends, the presence of partial glycerides, and reaction parameters. Various polyglycerol esters were synthesized and characterized through chromatographic analysis and HLB determination, and then incorporated into formulations to assess their performance. This work made it possible to identify four parameters as essential for achieving high surfactant efficiency: (i) grafting multiple fatty acids onto a single polyglycerol backbone, (ii) combining short/medium-chain (<C16) and long-chain (≥C16) fatty acids, (iii) including partial glycerides within the surfactant, and (iv) allowing the reaction medium to reach full equilibrium. Achieving full equilibrium results in synthesis medium clarity, which allows the HLB value to rise from 6 to 7 to 11–12 and ensures complex emulsion stability. This rational design approach led to a natural PG-10 ester whose performance equals that of conventional synthetic benchmarks, providing a significant advancement toward sustainable high-performance surfactant technologies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030129

Authors: Tatiana A. Fedotcheva Nikolay L. Shimanovsky

Geroprotective molecules are currently being actively investigated for the prevention of skin aging. An overview of geroprotectors in dermatology encompasses agents such as antioxidants, ultraviolet (UV) photoprotective agents, chemical peels, and carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers, each with inherent limitations, including poor tolerability in individuals with sensitive skin. Regarding biostimulators, high-molecular-weight peptides (exceeding 500 kDa) exhibit limited cutaneous bioavailability, underscoring the need for low-molecular-weight geroprotective compounds. One such candidate is dehydroepiandrosterone DHEA, a neurosteroid with anti-aging and anti-stress properties, which also serves as a precursor to sex steroids. Although topical hormone replacement therapy with estrogens and androgens is being utilized, it remains confined to formal hormone replacement regimens and is associated with a significant adverse effect profile. The aim of this review was to analyze the key molecular mechanisms underlying the effects of DHEA on the skin, with particular emphasis on its metabolism and sex- and age-dependent mechanisms of action. Additionally, this review seeks to elucidate the factors contributing to the absence of approved topical DHEA formulations and to outline the potential of DHEA as an anti-aging agent in dermatological applications. DHEA has demonstrated significant skin-improving effects in several studies; its investigation has been predominantly confined to postmenopausal women. Furthermore, the outcome measures employed in these studies lacked specificity. DHEA is not permitted for use in cosmetic products within the European Union due to its hormonal activity. Its use is only allowed as an extemporaneous formulation under the established regulatory frameworks of individual countries. The indications for its use and the appropriate dosage for men and women must be clearly defined based on the results of future clinical studies. Promising research directions include the pharmacogenetic characterization of steroidogenic enzymes and sex hormone receptors, as well as the evaluation of DHEA in both sexes, specifically in premenopausal women and in men presenting with late-onset hypogonadism. Additionally, the biological effects of the primary metabolites of DHEA, androstenedione, and 5-androstenediol, on the cutaneous function remain unexplored, including their potential anti-aging activity mediated through retinoid receptor activation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030127

Authors: Jule Marie Sauler Volkmar Vill Fabian Straske

This study presents the development of a natural hair dye based on Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. plant extract with and without subsequent mordanting. The dye molecules behind the color development have been investigated to gain better understanding of the relationship between flavonoid structure and color on hair. Yak hair was dyed under different conditions and wash fastness tests were carried out to evaluate the performance of the new hair dye. Analysis of Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. plant extract was performed to assess the chemical constitution of hair dye. Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. extract solely led to yellow colors (as represented within L*a*b* color space: L* = 65.5; a* = 0.7; b* = 46.6), whereas the treatment combined with ferrous lactate led to dark brown colors (L* = 26.4; a* = 2.3; b* = 10.0). Wash fastness demonstrated a very good color stability with a maximum loss in color intensity of ΔE = 12.4 after 24 hair washes. Dyeing experiments using the most abundant flavonoids marein, flavanomarein, okanin, and isookanin gave insight into the responsible flavonoids for color outcome. In combination with ferrous lactate, chalcones led to brown colors and flavanones to gray colors. The chalcone okanin presented itself as the most powerful dye, leading to intense colors in combination with ferrous lactate (ΔE = 56.6), at low dye concentrations of 0.1 mg mL−1.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030126

Authors: Sirinda Chalermthiralert Witchuda Sukjoi Sutatip Thonglem Narongrit Lahpun

The demand for eco-friendly photoprotection has increased due to the observed adverse effects of conventional UV filters on marine ecosystems. In this study, we developed a broad-spectrum, reef-friendly sunscreen emulsion containing Perilla frutescens seed extract. The extraction process was optimized using 95% ethanol maceration for one week, yielding the highest SPF of 22.61. Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was used to identify linolenic acid (43.54%) as the predominant fatty acid. Cytotoxicity test results for HaCaT keratinocytes were used to confirm the extract’s safety, with an IC50 of 12.9 mg/mL. The formulated sunscreen met environmental safety standards based on persistence, bioaccumulation, and toxicity (PBT) criteria. A clinical safety evaluation using a 24 h closed patch test (n = 17) demonstrated that the formulation induced no significant alterations in TEWL or erythema levels (p > 0.05), confirming its dermatological safety. In a clinical efficacy evaluation involving 30 volunteers, the formulation containing 1% perilla extract reduced both erythema values and the melanin index, with no statistically significant difference observed (p > 0.05). These findings demonstrate that P. frutescens seed extract is a potent bioactive ingredient for sustainable cosmeceuticals, offering effective sun protection while ensuring safety for both human skin and marine environments.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030125

Authors: Eunjung Choi Hee-Chul Chung Do-Un Kim Yun-kyeong Chu Jaesook Koh Ji Hwoon Baek

Skin aging is characterized by decreased collagen synthesis and increased extracellular matrix degradation, leading to wrinkle formation and reduced skin elasticity. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of hydrolyzed fish skin (HFS) extract through complementary in vitro and clinical investigations. In human dermal fibroblasts, treatment with HFS extract enhanced type I procollagen production and suppressed UVB-induced matrix-degrading enzymes, including matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and elastase, suggesting a mechanism that supports dermal matrix homeostasis. A randomized, double-blind, split-face clinical trial was conducted in 20 female participants over 12 weeks. A formulation containing 0.5% HFS extract was applied to one side of the face, while an identical vehicle control formulation without HFS extract was applied to the contralateral side. Wrinkle parameters were assessed using a three-dimensional imaging system. After 12 weeks, the test group showed significant improvements compared to baseline, with reductions of 12.75% in arithmetic mean roughness (Ra), 12.46% in root mean square roughness (Rq), and 11.32% in maximum wrinkle height (Rmax) (p < 0.05). No adverse events were observed. These findings demonstrate that HFS extract improves wrinkle-related skin parameters, potentially through promoting collagen synthesis while inhibiting matrix degradation. The combined molecular and clinical evidence supports its application as a functional cosmetic ingredient in anti-aging formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030124

Authors: Caterina Rossi Alessandra Guerrini Anna Baldisserotto Elisa Durini Mirco Rizzon Luigi Miori Gaia Bellonzi Stefano Manfredini Matteo Radice Silvia Vertuani

Lipid oxidation is a major cause of instability in cosmetics containing vegetable oils, compromising their quality and durability. This study evaluates the in vitro antioxidant activity of two essential oils of Ocimum basilicum L., obtained from plants grown in Argentina (OBA) and Italy (OBI), and their contribution to the oxidative stability of sweet almond oil. The essential oils were characterized by GC-MS, revealing significant differences in chemical composition: linalool represents the major constituent in both samples, with a higher concentration in OBI (64.42%) compared to OBA (55.28%). A sharp contrast was observed in the levels of eugenol and 1,8-cineole: while OBA was characterized by a higher eugenol content (18.44% vs. 2.25%), OBI showed a more pronounced presence of 1,8-cineole (13.90% vs. 5.38%). Antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and PCL assays, while the oxidative stability of the cosmetic oil was measured by OXITEST, evaluating the effect of DL-alpha-tocopherol combined with the two essential oils on oxidative stability. OBA, with its higher phenolic content, consistently outperformed OBI in antioxidant activity: the IC50 values from the DPPH assay were 43.3 ± 2.0 µg/mL (OBA) and 81.98 ± 1.98 µg/mL (OBI), while PCL values were 887.47 ± 6.01 and 363.82 ± 31.27 µmol Trolox equivalents (TE)/g, respectively. In the OXITEST model, the combination of 0.2% DL-alpha-tocopherol with 0.3% OBA yielded the highest oxidative stability (Induction Period = 1611 min), compared to 1114 min for the oil alone and 1508 min for the oil with tocopherol alone. This work provides new data on the functional use of basil essential oils in the oxidative stabilization of plant cosmetic oils, highlighting their potential use as natural antioxidants, in line with the increasing demand for clean label formulations and meeting the criteria of leading natural cosmetic standards.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030123

Authors: Laiara Torres Bianca Aparecida Martin Laura de Martin Coletti Bruna de Souza Altoé Adorno Juliana da Silva Coppede Renata Fonseca Vianna Lopez Suzelei de Castro França Ana Lucia Fachin Mozart Marins

The red alga Kappaphycus alvarezii is a rich source of bioactive compounds with potential applications in the cosmetic industry. This study aimed to characterize a cosmetic serum containing K. alvarezii and evaluate its immediate moisturizing effect on the skin. A randomized, triple-blind, parallel-group clinical trial was conducted with 28 healthy participants, allocated 1:1 to receive either a control formulation with hyaluronic acid or a test formulation with K. alvarezii. The formulations were assessed for stability over 60 days using organoleptic, microbiological, pH, and rheological analyses. Mechanical and bioadhesive properties were assessed using a texture analyzer, while the water content of the stratum corneum on the palms and backs of the hands was measured in vivo using a Corneometer® CM 825 (Courage & Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Both formulations showed similar stability and rheological behavior. Texture analysis indicated comparable compressibility and elasticity, with a slight reduction in bioadhesive strength for the test formulation. In vivo results demonstrated a moisturizing effect for both formulations, with a significant increase in palmar hydration 60 min after application of the K. alvarezii serum. These findings indicate that the formulation containing K. alvarezii can improve short term skin surface hydration; potential contributions of film formation and barrier modulation remain hypothetical and were not directly assessed in this study.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030122

Authors: Rodrigo Collina Romanhole Érica Mendes dos Santos Ana Laura Masquetti Fava Letícia de Souza Pagani Nicole Ferrari de Carvalho Giovanna Chagas Lima Carla Leandra Silva Godoi Thairiny Raiany Borges Toti Luiza Aparecida Luna Silvério Caroline Santinon Janaína Artem Ataide Priscila Gava Mazzola

This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the multiple factors influencing sunscreen efficacy, integrating studies published between 2016 and 2026. Beyond the type and concentration of UV filters, sunscreen performance is strongly affected by formulation design, photostability, environmental exposure, and user application practices. Formulation strategies involving emulsion systems, excipients, solubilization methods, and encapsulation technologies directly influence sun protection factor (SPF), cosmetic acceptability, and safety. Recent advances, including nanoparticle-based carriers, hybrid organic–inorganic systems, and antioxidant-enriched formulations, have shown potential to improve photostability, broaden UV protection, and reduce systemic absorption and environmental impact. However, inadequate application and insufficient reapplication remain major limitations to real-world photoprotection. In addition, differences in skin type, age, and lifestyle reinforce the need for more personalized sunscreen approaches. Growing concerns regarding the environmental effects of UV filters also highlight the importance of sustainable formulations and stricter regulatory policies. Overall, optimizing sunscreen efficacy requires not only technological innovation but also improved public education, transparent labeling, and user adherence. Future research should focus on multifunctional, eco-friendly, and user-centered sunscreens capable of providing effective and sustainable photoprotection.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030121

Authors: Christine Mendrok-Edinger André Fischer Francesco Ortelli Sven Kreisig Thorsten Dickel

Consumer demand for sustainable solutions to protect against hair damage is growing, yet quantitative studies linking molecular interactions to mechanical strengthening and structural changes remain limited. Here, we investigated the effectiveness of biotechnologically obtained Saccharomyces Lysate as a formulated active ingredient for hair care. Molecular modeling was used to explore the interactions between peptides in the lysate and keratin and suggested a network of intermolecular interactions at multiple sites on the proteins. Based on these observations, the strength and structural integrity of hair fibers treated with Saccharomyces Lysate were assessed using tensile measurements. We observed an improvement in the strength of bleached hair tresses, with an increased Young’s modulus compared to tresses treated only with water along with a significantly increased break stress. To visualize the hair fibers and their surface roughness after treatment with the lysate, we employed micro-computed tomography (µ-CT) offering high-resolution visualization of hair fibers. We introduce this method to qualitatively highlight surface appearance following application of a cosmetic product and complemented it with combing force measurements. Our results demonstrate the potential of this complex mixture of small peptides to strengthen hair integrity and we propose a hypothesis for its putative mode of action at the molecular level.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030120

Authors: Noemí García-Delgado Alexandre Lapeyre Jordi Ayats

Exosomes are revolutionizing skincare as natural messengers for cell communication, yet their transition into cosmetics is often limited by the ethical and regulatory hurdles of their animal or human sourcing. This study describes the development and validation of vegan exosome-like biomimetic vesicles (EBVs) generated from the microalgae Chlamydomonas reinhardtii that reproduce the structural and functional logic of mammalian exosomes. Their structural biomimetism was confirmed through physical, lipidomic, and proteomic characterizations, revealing bilamellar vesicles (average diameter ~160 nm) containing 109 membrane lipids and 1369 proteins. Their functional biomimetism was assessed via 3′ mRNA sequencing, which showed that the EBVs induced transcriptional responses in human fibroblasts functionally analogous to human-derived exosomes in matrix-remodeling and anti-aging pathways. In vitro, the EBVs showed a 166.7% higher dermal delivery bias than standard liposomes and accelerated wound healing. Ex vivo, 2% EBVs protected skin explants against UV-A stress, showing 92% protective efficacy for excessive melanin production upon oxidative stress. Furthermore, the EBVs supported hair follicle anagen markers and follicle stem cell metabolism, significantly upregulating SOX9 (p = 0.0022). A 56-day placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−12.2%), elasticity (+4.9%), and radiance (+20.0%). These results position EBVs as a scalable, high-performance alternative for next-generation anti-aging cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030119

Authors: Géraldine Louvet-Pommier Yuanyuan Fang Qian Zhang Mengxue Gao Xiaowei Chang Daniel Wils Damien Truffin

Bio-based succinic acid (bSU) has emerged as a promising mild exfoliating agent, yet its effects on desquamation pathways, barrier-related protein regulation, and irritation potential remain insufficiently characterized in human-relevant skin models. Therefore, this study systematically evaluated bSU against salicylic acid (SA) using reconstructed human epidermis and human skin explants to assess irritation profile and desquamation-related biological responses. Our findings reveal that bSU facilitates controlled corneocyte shedding by modulating the targets LEKTI, KLK, and CDSN. Moreover, bSU demonstrated a favorable ability to maintain physiological skin surface acidity, all while minimizing inflammatory activation. These results position bSU as a balanced exfoliating bioactive that effectively promotes stratum corneum renewal while preserving cutaneous barrier homeostasis, providing mechanistic insights to support its development in advanced mild exfoliation formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030118

Authors: Martina Burlando Emanuele Claudio Cozzani

Chronic hand eczema (CHE) is a persistent and relapsing inflammatory dermatosis characterized by substantial functional impairment, psychosocial distress, and occupational disability. Although epidemiologically common and clinically burdensome, CHE has long suffered from nosological ambiguity, frequently interpreted as a localized manifestation of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, allergic contact dermatitis, or cumulative irritant dermatitis. The recent regulatory approval of topical delgocitinib, a pan-Janus kinase (JAK) inhibitor specifically indicated for moderate-to-severe CHE inadequately controlled by topical corticosteroids, has reshaped both therapeutic strategy and conceptual framing of the disease. The introduction of a targeted therapy dedicated to CHE has reinforced its clinical identity while simultaneously highlighting its internal biological heterogeneity. Beneath the umbrella term “chronic hand eczema” lie distinct phenotypes characterized by variable barrier dysfunction, immune polarization, and environmental interaction. This review integrates current knowledge on epidemiology, pathophysiology, diagnostic stratification, therapeutic algorithms, phase III registrative evidence, emerging real-world data, and the central role of barrier restoration. Particular attention is devoted to the hand as a specialized barrier organ and to the interplay between inflammation and epidermal structural integrity. In the era of targeted therapy, precise diagnostic framing and barrier-oriented management are indispensable to optimize outcomes.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030117

Authors: Enzo Berardesca

As we conclude this Special Issue of Cosmetics, we reflect on a remarkable journey through the current landscape of cosmetic science [...]

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030114

Authors: Julien Chlasta Gaël Runel Manon Boussard Tiphaine Pele-Joly Kristell Lazou Karl Pays Carine Nizard Nivea Dias Amoedo Rodrigue Rossignol Anne-Laure Bulteau

Human skin homeostasis relies on the delicate equilibrium between epidermal stem cell renewal, dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) architecture, and environmental interactions. With aging and exposure to external stressors, this equilibrium becomes disrupted, leading to reduced regenerative capacity. In this study, we established an ex vivo human skin model to examine the impact of dry and tropical (hot and humid) environmental conditions on epidermal homeostasis and to evaluate the protective potential of Kombucha tea extract, a fermented tea known for its antioxidant and regenerative properties. Histological analyses revealed that tropical conditions induced pronounced epidermal thickening (+157%) and disruption of the normal undulating architecture of the DEJ. Atomic force microscopy demonstrated a loss of mechanical contrast between dermal papillae and epidermal ridges, indicative of junctional flattening (−61 and −81%). At the molecular level, heat and humidity upregulated a stem cell marker (+85%) and collagen VII (+39%), reflecting an adaptive but potentially destabilizing activation of basal keratinocytes and matrix reorganization. Topical application of Kombucha tea extract counteracted these effects. Together, these results highlight the sensitivity of epidermal stem cell niches to heat and humidity stress and identify Kombucha tea extract as a promising bioactive agent to preserve epidermal homeostasis under challenging climatic conditions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030116

Authors: Yea Jung Choi Moonseok Kang Doeun Kim Dong-Wook Kim Dayeon Ham Gabsik Yang Sullim Lee Ki Sung Kang

The accumulation of oxidative damage and inflammation, induced by internal and external factors, represents a major mechanism underlying the aging of skin. Excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) trigger mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathways, upregulating matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression and facilitating extracellular matrix degradation. Although nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) and hyaluronic acid (HA) possess antioxidant and dermoprotective properties, their potential combinational effects remain largely obscure. This study evaluated the impact of NMN and HA co-treatment on ROS production, MAPK signaling, MMP-1 secretion, and type I collagen secretion in TNF-α-stimulated human epidermal keratinocytes. ROS levels were assessed via DCFDA assay, while MMP-1 and COL1A1 secretion were quantified using ELISA. Additionally, the regulatory effects on ERK, JNK, and p38 phosphorylation were determined by Western blot. Synergy prediction was analyzed using the SynergyFinder platform via Highest Single Agent and Loewe models. While NMN and HA individually attenuated TNF-α-induced ROS and MMP-1 levels, co-treatment provided superior suppression and exhibited combinational interactions at specific concentrations. These findings suggest that NMN and HA combination treatment effectively modulates oxidative stress and skin-aging-related responses by regulating ROS levels and MAPK signaling pathways.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030115

Authors: Magdalena Daszkiewicz Dorota Różańska Bożena Regulska-Ilow

Introduction: Many studies suggest that dietary factors may significantly influence the development and severity of acne lesions. Objective: The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of an anti-inflammatory diet on acne severity in patients with acne vulgaris. Methods: This study included 92 participants who followed an individualized dietary intervention tailored to their energy requirements. Acne severity was assessed at baseline and after four weeks of dietary intervention using the Investigator’s Static Global Assessment scale. Results: After four weeks, a reduction in acne severity was observed in 68 of 92 participants (73.91%). The mean acne severity score decreased from 3.3 ± 0.6 to 2.4 ± 0.7 points. The dietary intervention also resulted in statistically significant reductions in body weight (p < 0.0001), body mass index (p < 0.0001), fat mass (p < 0.0001), visceral fat (p = 0.0386), and metabolic age (p = 0.0004). Conclusions: The balanced diet characterized by a low glycemic index and anti-inflammatory properties, combined with reduced intake of saturated fatty acids, sugar, and salt, as well as the elimination of dairy products and highly processed and high glycemic index foods, presumably through the synergistic effect of all the components of the diet, was found to be effective in the reduction of acne severity in the study group. This study supports the feasibility of the applied dietary pattern and suggests possible benefit for patients with acne. Considering the promising results obtained in this study, further research conducted in larger patient populations would be valuable.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030113

Authors: Inola Kracke Thibault Moraine

Zinc oxide (ZnO) is widely utilized as a mineral UV filter in sunscreen formulations due to its broad-spectrum efficacy, photostability, and acceptance by natural cosmetic certification bodies. Despite its growing use, the environmental impact of ZnO on marine ecosystems remains under debate. While zinc is an essential micronutrient for aquatic organisms, excessive concentrations of Zn compounds, particularly in nanoparticulate form, have been thought to have detrimental effects, including coral bleaching, oxidative stress, and disruptions in metabolic and reproductive functions in marine species. This review synthesizes the current peer-reviewed literature on the ecotoxicological effects of ZnO, with particular emphasis on coral reef health, bioaccumulation, and trophic transfer pathways. Furthermore, real-world exposure scenarios are evaluated, incorporating field data from densely visited coastal regions and modeled environmental concentrations under worst-case use conditions. The aim of this study is to provide a comprehensive risk assessment of ZnO in sunscreen applications, balancing its recognized safety in human use with potential long-term impacts on aquatic ecosystems, thereby informing future regulatory decisions and sustainable product development.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030112

Authors: Cíntia Almeida Margarida Gingado Carolina Santos Carla Turiel Thalita Cândido Ana Júlio Catarina Pereira-Leite Catarina Rosado

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin health applications, particularly for restoring barrier function. Following previous work on the development of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporating BSFL lipid extract, the present study focused on the mechanistic evaluation of the occlusive, moisturizing and skin reinforcement potential of these nanoformulations (NFs), by exploring both in vitro and in vivo models. The compatibility assays showed no adverse effects after patch testing on healthy or atopic individuals, nor alterations on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or redness. In vitro studies confirmed the ability of these NFs to form an occlusive lipid film, hampering moisture loss, with 39% reduction of water loss compared to the control. Efficacy assays in human volunteers revealed a statistically significant improvement in epidermal conditions at treated sites, evidenced by enhanced SC hydration. The plastic occlusion stress test (POST) revealed a trend toward a reduced evaporation half-life, suggesting a modulation of the epidermal water dynamics, although the effect did not reach statistical significance. Overall, BSFL-based lipid nanoparticles emerge as emollient agents with broad potential for incorporation into next-generation cosmetic and pharmaceutical products for the management of AD.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030111

Authors: Bhagavathi Sundaram Sivamaruthi Natarajan Suganthy Periyanaina Kesika Khontaros Chaiyasut Rungaroon Waditee-Sirisattha Wandee Rungseevijitprapa Chaiyavat Chaiyasut

Wound healing in cosmetological and aesthetic surgery extends beyond tissue closure to achieving rapid regeneration, minimal scarring, and restoration of functional skin architecture. However, conventional wound care strategies inadequately regulate the complex wound microenvironment required for optimal cosmetic outcomes, leading to prolonged healing times and suboptimal aesthetic results, which can negatively impact patient satisfaction and increase the risk of complications. Phytochemicals exhibit multifunctional bioactivities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and pro-regenerative effects, but their clinical translation faces obstacles due to poor solubility, stability, and bioavailability. Nanotechnology-based delivery systems have emerged as a critical enabling strategy to overcome these limitations. This narrative review provides an updated, mechanistically integrated synthesis of phytochemical-loaded nanotherapeutics, including polymeric nanoparticles, nanohydrogels, nanofibers, and lipid- and vesicle-based systems, with a specific focus on their roles in modulating key wound-healing pathways, such as inflammation resolution, angiogenesis, collagen remodelling, and re-epithelialization. Evidence from preclinical studies consistently demonstrates that nano-enabled phytochemicals enhance therapeutic efficacy, improve skin penetration, and contribute to superior cosmetic outcomes, particularly by reducing fibrosis and scar formation. However, critical gaps remain, including limited high-quality clinical evidence, a lack of standardized formulation design, variability in reported outcomes, and unresolved concerns regarding long-term safety and regulatory translation. Taken together, the key insight of this review is that phytochemical-loaded nanotherapeutics represent a promising but still transitional strategy, biologically compelling at the preclinical level yet clinically under-validated. Bridging this gap requires rigorously designed clinical trials, quantitative outcome reporting, and balanced regulatory frameworks. Advancing these areas will be essential to translate nano-enabled phytochemicals from experimental systems into reliable, evidence-based solutions for cosmetological wound management.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030110

Authors: Alessandro Colletti Carmela Spagnuolo Gloria Roveda Marzia Pellizzato Eva Adabbo Gian Luigi Russo Giancarlo Cravotto

Background: Facial skin aging is a multifactorial process characterized by wrinkles, pigmentary alterations, reduced elasticity, and dermal structural changes, in which oxidative stress and low-grade inflammation play key roles. Polyphenols have gained interest in cosmetic science due to their antioxidant and skin-protective properties. Objective: We evaluated the antioxidant activity, clinical–instrumental performance, and tolerability of a topical cream containing 4% w/w Aliophen®, a polyphenol-rich malt–hop extract, after 56 days of twice-daily application. Methods: Antioxidant activity was assessed in HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to tert-butyl hydroperoxide (tBHP, 500 μM), with intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) measured by DCFH-DA assay after Aliophen® treatment (4–16 mg/mL). A prospective, single-center, open-label study included 20 women aged 45–65 years with facial aging signs. Instrumental assessments included wrinkle depth (PrimosCR SF), pigmentation (ITA°), skin biomechanics (Cutometer® R0, R2), and dermal echogenicity (50 MHz ultrasound) at baseline, Day 28, and Day 56. A small subgroup with mild-to-moderate atopic skin (N = 5) was descriptively monitored using SCORAD. Results: Aliophen® significantly reduced ROS in a dose-dependent manner. Wrinkle depth decreased at Day 28 (−8.1%; p = 0.003) and Day 56 (−15.9%; p < 0.001). ITA° increased (+11.5% and +18.2%; p ≤ 0.003). Skin biomechanics improved (R0 −5.3%; R2 +5.5%; p ≤ 0.004). Dermal echogenicity increased at Day 56 (+1.38; p = 0.002). SCORAD showed descriptive improvement. No serious adverse events occurred. Conclusions: A topical cream containing 4% Aliophen® improved instrumental markers of facial aging with good tolerability, supporting further randomized, vehicle-controlled studies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030109

Authors: Malvina Hoxha Visar Malaj Maria Manconi Maria Letizia Manca

The cosmetic industry represents a major sector of the global economy and is expected to significantly grow in the coming years. To enhance consumer acceptance and address increasing sustainability concerns, cosmetic companies are actively seeking innovative solutions to mitigate their environmental, economic, and social impacts. In accordance with this, several scientific studies focus on the development, scale-up, and life cycle assessment of sustainable cosmetic products, especially those derived from side streams in accordance with circular economy principles. Various reviews have addressed this topic; however, they typically cover one or two of these dimensions, providing only a partial perspective. In particular, existing studies mainly analyze the types of side streams used and the resulting products, often lacking a comprehensive framework that can effectively support the translation of these approaches into industrial-scale production. The aim of the present review is to address this gap by providing a comprehensive analysis of the maturity level of development, scale-up processes, and life cycle assessment of cosmetic products based on agro-industrial side streams. This analysis is intended to support companies in the transition towards more sustainable practices by reducing carbon footprint and limiting the intensive extraction of virgin raw materials. The different approaches and methodologies proposed for the development and scale-up of sustainable cosmetic products from agro-industrial side streams are also analyzed, considering whether life cycle assessment has been performed. Furthermore, the most suitable business models will be selected as innovative and sustainable value chains capable of generating economic benefits, fostering local development, and enhancing resource efficiency and supply security.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030108

Authors: Fetti Andriyani Kurniya Ningsih Yulia Rahmah Youngkwan Cho Ani Kurniawati

Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus L.) is a tropical tuber crop that has potential not only as a food source but also as a natural active ingredient in the cosmetics industry. This study aims to evaluate the phenology of tuber development and the content of primary and secondary metabolites of two jicama accessions (Bogor and Kebumen) at three tuber ages (3, 4, and 5 months). The parameters observed included tuber weight, starch yield, total soluble solids (TSS), total titratable acidity (TTA), vitamin C, total phenols, total flavonoids, and antioxidant activity (% inhibition). For data analysis, we used the T-test to compare differences between accessions. The results showed that tuber weight and starch yield increased significantly up to 5 months of age, while secondary metabolite content (phenols, flavonoids, antioxidant activity) was higher in young tubers (3–4 months). This study shows a trade-off between productivity (starch and vitamin C) and bioactive metabolite content (phenols, flavonoids, antioxidants) as the tubers age. The Bogor accession has a more stable vitamin C content, phenol levels, and antioxidant activity, while the Kebumen accession shows higher flavonoid levels in young tubers. The optimal tuber age and accession recommended to obtain a balance between productivity and secondary metabolite content is the Bogor accession at 4 months of age. This supports the potential use of jicama in the cosmetics industry as a brightening agent (vitamin C), humectant (sugar), anti-aging agent (phenols, flavonoids), and base ingredient for natural starch-based formulations. This study provides the first integrated evaluation of tuber phenology, primary metabolites, and secondary metabolite dynamics of two Indonesian jicama accessions in relation to cosmetic functionality. The results highlight a clear trade-off between productivity and bioactive compound accumulation, offering a scientific basis for selecting optimal harvest age and accession for cosmetic raw materials This study provides the first integrated evaluation of tuber phenology, primary metabolites, and secondary metabolite dynamics of two Indonesian jicama accessions in relation to cosmetic functionality. The results highlight a clear trade-off between productivity and bioactive compound accumulation, offering a scientific basis for selecting the optimal harvest age and accession for cosmetic raw materials.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030107

Authors: Natapornchanok Kanbut Kamonpan Sanachai Jirada Pluemjai Sarunya Tuntiyasawasdikul Sakda Daduang Bodee Nutho Jringjai Areemit

Equisetum ramosissimum Desf. Subsp. debile (Roxb. ex Vaucher) Hauk (E. ramosissimum), exhibits anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant activities. However, identifying the key compounds exhibiting anti-tyrosinase effects and establishing effective protocols for their extraction have not been accomplished. Herein, we investigate and establish an effective extraction method and identify the key bioactive compounds responsible for tyrosinase inhibition. E. ramosissimum was extracted using the microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) method. The MCW4 extract exhibited the highest antioxidant activity (IC50: 90.96 ± 0.515 µg/mL) and TPC (27.23 ± 1.180 mg of GAE/g-crude extract), while the MCW5 extract showed the strongest anti-tyrosinase activity (IC50: 126.48 ± 6.668 µg/mL). LC-MS/MS analysis identified resveratrol isomers, protocatechuic acid, cis-ETRA acid, KF-3-GBS, 1-16:0-lysoPC, and 1-16:0-lysoPE as potential anti-tyrosinase compounds, detected only in MCW4 and MCW5 under the applied extraction and analytical conditions. Molecular docking indicated favorable predicted binding toward human tyrosinase (hTyr) for resveratrol isomers, KF-3-GBS, and 1-16:0-lysoPE. KF-3-GBS was uniquely detected in MCW5. These results suggest that MAE using a solid-to-solvent ratio of 1:16 at 40 °C for 15 min produced an E. ramosissimum extract that exhibited strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Kaempferol-3-gentiobioside (KF-3-GBS) demonstrated favorable binding to hTyr in molecular docking analysis, supporting its potential role as a direct tyrosinase inhibitor.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030106

Authors: Erika Paredes-Sulca Felix Castillo-Morales Adil Barrientos-Amau Lucy Quispe-Rodriguez Alison Zanabria-Santos Dula Balbin-Inga Gabriela Solano-Canchaya Norma Ramos-Cevallos Américo Castro-Luna Bertran Santiago-Trujillo

Canities results from a progressive decline in melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis and is commonly associated with aesthetic concerns that motivate the use of cosmetic products for hair color correction. Shampoo, due to its frequent use, represents a suitable vehicle for the gradual deposition of pigments on the hair fiber. This study aimed to design and develop a shampoo containing dark synthetic semi-permanent dyes for the gradual coverage of gray hair. Four shampoo formulations were developed and evaluated through in vitro tests using bleached hair tresses to assess color deposition and performance. The selected formulation was subsequently subjected to accelerated stability studies and color sustainability evaluation. The results showed that the formulation maintained organoleptic, physicochemical, microbiological, and functional stability. Color sustainability assays indicated that the gray–black coloration persisted on hair tresses containing approximately 90% canities after eight washing cycles. The formulation incorporating the semi-permanent dyes Basic Blue 124, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51 achieved a gradual gray–black tonal effect. In conclusion, the developed shampoo demonstrated stability and effectiveness for the gradual cosmetic coverage of gray hair.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030105

Authors: Bianka Grunow Mariola Aleksandra Dietrich Valeria Di Leonardo Martin Pšenička Kenneth Benning

Caviar extract is widely used in luxury cosmetics and is generally defined as a homogeneous ingredient derived exclusively from sturgeon eggs. However, its molecular composition remains inadequately characterised. In this study, proteomic analyses were performed on 14 commercial caviar samples from different sturgeon species and geographical origins, examined independently in two laboratories. Across three single-origin samples (Germany, Poland, China), 1437 protein groups and 3452 unique peptides were identified, with consistent overlaps with sturgeon ovarian fluid (≥25–38 proteins). Extending this analysis across multiple species confirmed the presence of ovarian fluid-associated proteins in all examined groups, including 69 in Acipenser baerii, 61 in A. gueldenstaedtii, 55 in A. schrenckii, and 49 in H. huso. The results showed that ovarian fluid is consistently co-extracted during standard roe harvesting processes due to its strong egg surface adhesion, making this co-extraction intrinsic rather than incidental. Proteomic profiling revealed a complex mixture of egg- and ovarian fluid-derived proteins, including zona pellucida glycoproteins, immunoglobulins, complement components, proteases, coagulation factors, and antioxidant enzymes. Many of these proteins influence skin biology, suggesting that the functional effects attributed to caviar extract may partially originate from ovarian fluid constituents rather than yolk-derived nutrients alone. At the same time, the presence of immune-active and enzymatic proteins raises important questions regarding safety assessment and regulatory oversight. Species-specific proteomic clustering also indicates considerable composition heterogeneity, challenging assumptions of ingredient standardisation. Together, these results highlight a discrepancy between current definitions and the molecular reality and underscore the need for improved molecular characterisation, updated regulatory definitions, and the consideration of alternative, cell-based production strategies for cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030104

Authors: Urte Bernatonyte Dalia Marija Kopustinskiene

The performance of shampoo is determined by complex interactions between surface active agents (SAAs), polymers, and formulation modifiers, which directly influence consumer-relevant properties. However, the formulation principles governing these interactions and their impact on product quality remain insufficiently characterized. Therefore, the aim of this study was to evaluate the formulation principles underlying the interaction between thickeners and surfactant systems in shampoo formulations and to assess how these interactions influence the overall performance and quality of the final product. For this purpose, two groups of shampoo formulations containing identical surfactant systems but different thickeners (acrylate copolymer and guar gum) were prepared and evaluated in terms of pH, cleansing power (wool thread method), foam volume and stability, and texture profile. The results demonstrated that pH values ranged from 6.52 to 7.23 in acrylate copolymer-based formulations and from 4.71 to 6.09 in guar gum-based formulations. Cleansing power reached up to approximately 35%, depending on surfactant composition and thickener type. Foam volume was higher in acrylate copolymer systems, with a maximum value of 161 mL, whereas guar gum-based formulations exhibited lower but more variable foam characteristics. Texture analysis revealed that guar gum formulations were more sensitive to changes in surfactant composition, whereas acrylate copolymer provided more consistent and controllable texture characteristics.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030103

Authors: Sabrina G. Fabi Alessandra Haddad Luiz Avelar Michael Somenek Katie Beleznay Steven Dayan Kathryn Taylor-Barnes Jeff Huang Alan D. Widgerow Matthew Meckfessel Daniel Bråsäter

Regenerative medicine aims to restore the structure and function for improved tissue health; reduced tissue health can arise from causes such as aging, which results in the ongoing degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin. Replacement of a single biological component is not sufficient for an esthetic treatment to be described as regenerative; it is the relative amounts, ratios, types and organization of stimulated components that are important in a treatment’s regenerative potential. Regenerative aesthetics aims to recapture the youthful structure and function of tissue by exploiting the body’s own systems. Poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA-SCA; Sculptra®), an injectable, biodegradable, non-permanent biostimulator, induces a combination of mechanotransductional/mechanical stimulation and foreign body reaction response and promotes ECM remodeling via the production of collagen through the upregulation of cytokines interleukin-1b and CXCL6, elastin, proteoglycans and multiadhesive glycoproteins. In addition, PLLA-SCA stimulates adipocyte rejuvenation/adipogenesis and increases the thickness of the dermis and adipose layers. Hence, PLLA-SCA stimulates endogenous pathways, and the array of biostimulatory effects should not be considered individually but as interlinked with the overall goal of improvement in skin health. These effects manifest clinically as long-term improvements in the mechanical properties of the skin, the restoration of volume and elasticity, improvements in skin quality and thickness, and dermal remodeling.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030102

Authors: Giuseppe Marano Oksana Di Giacomi Marco Lanzetta Camilla Scialpi Antonio Sottile Gianandrea Traversi Osvaldo Mazza Claudia d’Abate Eleonora Gaetani Marianna Mazza

The skin–brain axis constitutes a complex, bidirectional network integrating cutaneous sensory, immune, and neuroendocrine systems with central neural circuits involved in emotion regulation, stress responsivity, and social cognition. Advances in psychodermatology and cosmetic science have progressively extended this framework to the emerging field of neurocosmetics, which explores how topical formulations, sensorial properties, and cutaneous neuromodulators may influence psychological well-being, affective states, and perceived stress. The aim of this narrative review is to synthesize current evidence on the biological foundations of the skin–brain axis and to critically examine the implications of these mechanisms for neurocosmetic interventions from a psychological and psychiatric perspective. It describes the biological substrates underlying skin–brain communication, including the cutaneous hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis, neuropeptides, neurotrophins, transient receptor potential channels, and endocannabinoid signaling, and examines how these pathways are targeted by neurocosmetic interventions. Particular attention is devoted to neuroactive compounds, such as peptides, cannabinoids, botanicals, and aromatherapeutic molecules, as well as to sensorial strategies involving texture, temperature, and olfactory cues, which may modulate mood, anxiety, and self-perception through peripheral mechanisms. From a psychological and psychiatric perspective, the review discusses the intersection between stress-related skin conditions, body image disturbances, and emotional dysregulation, highlighting how cosmetic practices may influence subjective well-being beyond purely aesthetic outcomes. Methodological limitations of the existing literature, including the heterogeneity of study designs and outcome measures, as well as ethical considerations related to mood- and stress-related claims in cosmetic products, are critically examined. Finally, future research directions are outlined, and a translational framework is proposed to integrate dermatology, neuroscience, and mental health within next-generation cosmetic science.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030101

Authors: Ula Levanaityte Giedre Kasparaviciene Nijole Savickiene Jurga Bernatoniene

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a recognized human carcinogen, and topical sunscreens remain the primary strategy for photoprotection. As community pharmacies represent trusted sources of skincare products, evaluating the composition of sunscreens distributed through this channel is particularly relevant. This cross-sectional market analysis investigated UV filters used in sunscreen products available in Lithuanian community pharmacies in November–December 2025. Products were identified through online pharmacy catalogs and assessed for labeled Sun Protection Factor (SPF), number and type of UV filters, and filter combinations in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. A total of 467 products from 98 brands were included, and 26 distinct UV filters were identified. Triazine derivatives predominated, particularly bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (64.67%) and ethylhexyl triazone (58.03%). Most products (61.67%) were labeled SPF ≥ 50 and contained multiple UV filters (mean 4.29 ± 1.66), with significantly more filters in SPF ≥ 50 formulations (p < 0.001). These results indicate that sunscreen products available in Lithuanian pharmacies are dominated by high-SPF formulations and selective multi-filter systems, providing region-specific insights relevant to regulatory oversight and consumer exposure assessment.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030100

Authors: Saba Shahrivari-Baviloliaei Ilkay Erdogan Orhan Alina Plenis Agnieszka Viapiana

Astragalus species have been used in traditional medicine for the treatment of various conditions, and they have recently been used to treat dermatological diseases. Health benefits of Astragalus extracts, especially Astragalus membranaceus Fisch. ex Bunge (synonym of Astragalus mongholicus Bunge), result from the multitude of secondary metabolites identified in their genus, including saponins, flavonoids and polysaccharides. Astragalus species, traditionally valued for their systemic medicinal properties, are increasingly recognized as potent sources of ingredients for the cosmeceutical industry. While A. membranaceus remains the most prominent representative, this review explores the broader genus as an emerging reservoir of bioactive secondary metabolites. For this purpose, current publications regarding the topical effects of Astragalus species in the treatment of dermatological diseases were collected. Several Astragalus extracts and their compounds have been shown to display biological activities with skin rejuvenating, photoprotective and antimicrobial properties, wound-healing activity, and therapeutic effects on atopic dermatitis and alopecia. However, these articles have limitations because of their use of non-human mammals and the short duration of trials, and future research is needed to fill these gaps.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020099

Authors: Kunlathida Luangpraditkun Jinnipha Pajoubpong Piyachat Kasemkiatsakul Ngamrayu Ngamdokmai Mayuree Poonasri Somnathtai Yammen Boonyadist Vongsak

Ozone layer depletion exacerbates UV-induced skin damage, including oxidative stress and DNA lesions, thereby increasing the risk of photoaging and malignant transformation. Natural extracts have gained increasing attention as a photoprotective ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Kaempferia galanga, a species in the Zingiberaceae family traditionally used for skin-related treatment and listed in the CosIng database, exhibits multiple biologically relevant properties; however, its anti-photoaging and anti-photo-senescence effects in human dermal fibroblasts remain unexplored. This study investigated the in vitro photoprotective effects of K. galanga extract against UVB-induced photoaging and cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts. The ethanolic extract of K. galanga rhizomes (EKGRs) contained ethyl p-methoxycinnamate (EPMC) as a major constituent (33.7 ± 3.7% (w/w) of the crude extract), identified by HPLC-UV. Additionally, EKGR exhibited significant protective effects in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts. EKGR showed no cytotoxicity at concentrations up to 50.0 µg/mL, as determined by the MTT assay. EKGR pretreatment significantly reduced UVB-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts compared with UVB-exposed cells (22.2 ± 2.7% vs. 36.7 ± 8.0%). Furthermore, pretreatment with EKGR prior to UVB exposure resulted in a significant increase in pro-collagen type I production (37,075.1 ± 7532.2 pg/mL) and a concomitant decrease in MMP-1 secretion (25,754.1 ± 4042.0 pg/mL) relative to UVB-exposed cells (26,845.8 ± 1454.6 and 39,910.8 ± 6035.1 pg/mL, respectively). To demonstrate formulation feasibility, EKGR was incorporated into an oil-in-water microemulsion, which exhibited concentration-dependent SPF enhancement. Collectively, these findings demonstrate the photoprotective efficacy of EPMC-rich EKGR and highlight its potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient for mitigating UVB-induced photo-senescence and skin aging, with an additional SPF boosting effect. To our knowledge, this study provides the first evidence of EKGR-mediated protection against UVB-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020098

Authors: Yuanyuan Xu Yao Li Xuegang Xu Shuai Qiao Long Geng Yan Wu

Background: Melasma is a chronic hypermelanosis requiring effective therapies. Methods: This prospective, randomized controlled trial evaluated intense pulsed light (IPL) and topical tranexamic acid (TXA) versus IPL with placebo. Thirty-three patients completed the 5-month study (group A: TXA + IPL, n = 17; group B: Placebo + IPL, n = 16). Outcome included VISIA analysis, modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), skin melanin index (MI) and erythema index (EI) measurement. Results: At Month 5, both groups showed improved mMASI scores; however, group A demonstrated a significantly greater reduction than group B (−50.52% vs. −38.49%; mean difference −12.03%, 95% CI −23.74% to −0.32%; p < 0.05). Excellent improvement was achieved in 70.59% of Group A versus 25% of Group B. Furthermore, Group A exhibited a significant decrease in MI (−36.31%) compared to a negligible change in Group B (−1.28%), with a significant between-group difference (p = 0.02). VISIA analysis confirmed superior improvements in brown spots and texture for Group A (p < 0.05). No adverse events occurred. Conclusions: Combining topical TXA with IPL is a safe and significantly more effective treatment for melasma than IPL alone, offering superior pigment reduction without increased risks.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020097

Authors: Valentin I. Sharobaro Anastasiya S. Borisenko Yousif M. Ahmed Alsheikh Alexey E. Avdeev Nina A. Lysenko

Background: Robot-assisted surgery has become increasingly used across multiple specialties; however, its integration into aesthetic plastic surgery remains limited. Individualized patient requirements, such as concealed scar placement, superficial soft tissue dissection, and patient-specific docking angles, are major challenges to its adoption, unlike in other specialties. This review aimed to evaluate the current use of robotic systems in plastic surgery, with a particular focus on aesthetic procedures, operative outcomes, and existing technological limitations. Methods: Multiple databases, including PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar, were extensively searched to identify studies published between 2011 and 2026. Data on robotic platforms, operative duration, rehabilitation outcomes, and aesthetic indications were extracted and analyzed. Robotic systems such as da Vinci, Symani, MUSA, and ARTAS demonstrated feasibility across reconstructive subspecialties. However, their clinical application remains limited, as purely aesthetic procedures are rare, highlighting a significant lack of standardized docking methods and dedicated instruments. Results: The data show that robotic platforms offer great advantages, such as precision and minimally invasive access; however, their high costs, bulky instrumentation, and limited docking methods represent barriers to their adoption in aesthetic surgery. Conclusions: Robot-assisted aesthetic plastic surgery remains in the early stage of development. Further research is required to establish reproducible docking standards and expand its clinical indications. Advancements in single-port systems, artificial intelligence integration, and surgeon training will facilitate broader clinical implementation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020096

Authors: Dorota Sołdacka Wioletta Barańska-Rybak

Background: Dermatology and aesthetic medicine make extensive use of microneedling, a minimally invasive and safe treatment. Across the research, it has been shown that microneedling combined with chemical peels is also more effective than chemical peels alone. However, data on procedures in dark-skinned individuals is rather scarce. Aim/Objective: This study aimed to determine the efficacy of using a 4% retinol solution product containing novel TGF-β activators and antioxidants combined with a microneedling technique in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, atrophic acne scars, and enlarged pores in patients with skin of color, generally corresponding to Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV–VI. Methods: Each of the 10 patients underwent three peel treatment series, with a 30-day interval between each session. Moreover, skin hydration, elasticity, and pigmentation were examined using the Multi Skin Test MC 1000 Courage + Khazaka, and the Observ 520x device. Results: All patients reported an overall improvement and an enhancement in skin tone after the procedure. The majority of them stated subjective improvement in the reduction of facial skin issues: redness, hyperpigmentation, uneven structure, wrinkles, dehydration, dryness, and sebaceous gland activity. The least improvement was noted in scar reduction or liquidation. An objective evaluation revealed a statistically significant improvement in hyperpigmentation and elasticity in the study group. An improvement, however, not statistically significant, in hydration parameters was demonstrated during the study. Conclusions: This study suggests that a combined peel therapy of 4% retinol serum product containing novel TGF-β activators and antioxidants, together with a microneedling technique, may improve facial hyperpigmentation of the skin, as well as regulate sebaceous gland activity, their size, and reduce sebum production. The recommended method is relatively simple to use, low-cost, has minimal adverse effects, and is well tolerated by patients with skin of color.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020094

Authors: Elizaveta Patronova Egor Ilin Viktor Filatov Bárbara de Freitas Carli Gustavo Facchini Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro Samara Eberlin

Vitamin D3 deficiency is a common concern in dermatology and aging, yet its topical supplementation is restricted in the EU, and direct precursors are unstable. Stimulating the skin’s endogenous vitamin D3 biosynthesis using phytochemicals represents a promising alternative. This research reveals the potential of a natural Passiflora edulis (passion fruit) extract to stimulate vitamin D3 synthesis in the skin epidermis. An in silico screening of phytochemicals using molecular docking and Molecular Mechanics/Poisson–Boltzmann Surface Area (MM/PBSA) analysis was performed to identify compounds with affinity for the vitamin D receptor (VDR) and lathosterol oxidase, a key enzyme in the vitamin D3 biosynthesis pathway. While several flavonoids showed high predicted vitamin D receptor affinity, genistein, which has been reported to occur in P. edulis fruit extracts, exhibited favorable docking scores and was predicted to interact with the active site of lathosterol oxidase. Subsequent in vitro experiments on HaCaT keratinocytes and an ex vivo human skin model demonstrated that the P. edulis extract significantly increased vitamin D3 amount, both under UVB irradiation and, notably, in its absence. The P. edulis extract significantly increased vitamin D3 level in HaCaT keratinocytes by up to 274.04% without UVB exposure and demonstrated a synergistic effect with UVB, enhancing production by a further 61.41% compared to UVB alone (p < 0.001). In the ex vivo model, the extract alone increased vitamin D3 levels by 153.31%, and its combination with UVB resulted in a 54.82% higher yield compared to the UVB control (p < 0.01). These findings highlight the promising potential of P. edulis fruit extract as a natural cosmeceutical ingredient for enhancing cutaneous vitamin D3 synthesis, offering a novel approach to supporting skin health through dermatocosmetics.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020095

Authors: Mar Llamas-Velasco María Vitale Cristina Eguren

Background: Retinoids are established as a cornerstone in the management of photoaging; however, their clinical utility is frequently limited by local irritation, leading to poor patient compliance. This study evaluates the efficacy and safety of a new retinol formulation designed to improve skin texture and wrinkles while minimizing adverse effects. Methods: A prospective, rater-blinded pilot clinical study was conducted involving 21 women with moderate-to-severe photoaging over a 180-day period. Participants followed a progressive application protocol using a specific retinol emulsion alternating with a replenishing cream. Efficacy was assessed using the validated Rao–Goldman scale and VISIA® image analysis, while safety was monitored through the reporting of adverse events (AEs) and dermatological evaluations. The primary endpoint was the percentage of patients achieving a Rao–Goldman score of 2 at day 180. Results: A statistically significant improvement on the Rao–Goldman scale was observed, with 76.2% of patients improving from their baseline classification to exhibit only fine wrinkles (Grade 2) (p = 0.028). Instrumental analysis was performed using the VISIA® system. Regarding safety, although 81% of participants initially reported adverse effects such as erythema and scaling, these incidents decreased significantly over time. Conclusions: The novel retinol formulation demonstrates significant clinical efficacy in ameliorating the signs of photoaging, while maintaining a favorable safety profile

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020093

Authors: Taylor Oswald Zixuan Shao Daniel Zambrano Nicholas J. Brideau

The epidermal barrier is essential for skin function, resilience, and tolerance to environmental and procedural stress. Disruption of this barrier is common after cosmetic treatments such as chemical peeling, underscoring the need for ingredients with proven biological and clinical support for barrier recovery. This study evaluated dihydrokaempferol (DHK) using molecular, preclinical, and clinical approaches. Gene expression profiling in keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts revealed that DHK enhanced barrier-related genes, reduced inflammation-associated markers, and modulated genes involved in extracellular matrix remodeling. Functional assays confirmed antioxidant activity, suppression of stress-induced interleukin 6 (IL-6) release, increased elastin production, and improved fibroblast migration. Clinically, a randomized, placebo-controlled, split-face study following standardized chemical peeling demonstrated that DHK-treated skin showed significant improvements in dermatologist-assessed skin attributes versus placebo. Together, these findings indicate that DHK supports epidermal barrier integrity, modulates dermal repair mechanisms, and enhances recovery from controlled skin stress. The effects observed at the molecular and cellular levels translated into measurable improvements in visible skin quality, highlighting DHK’s potential as a bioactive ingredient.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020092

Authors: Xintong Zhang Yi Chen Kaixin Wu Li Hu Yi Liu Li Guan

To develop cosmetic film-forming agents that combine sustainability with functionality, this study synthesized a series of bio-based polyols using epoxidized soybean oil (ESO) as raw material through acid-catalyzed ring-opening reactions. These polyols partially replaced petroleum-based polyols and reacted with isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). By incorporating β-cyclodextrin (β-CD), a water-based polyurethane (CPS-ESO) was successfully developed that combines degradability with active ingredient delivery capability. Experiments demonstrated that the resulting CPS-M film exhibits excellent water repellency (contact angle 66.7°), mechanical properties (tensile strength 14.21 MPa, elongation at break 229.42%), adhesion (Level 0), and breathability, while displaying controllable degradation behavior under both enzymatic and alkaline hydrolysis conditions. Due to the cavity structure of β-cyclodextrin, this material efficiently loaded resveratrol (RES) at a loading rate of 0.16%. Formulated into a setting spray (F1), the product demonstrated outstanding makeup longevity (lowest ΔE value after water/sweat immersion), anti-friction performance (ΔE value after friction only one-third of the control group), and antioxidant activity (DPPH scavenging rate of 86.25%), with RES remaining stable under high-temperature storage conditions. This study provides new insights for designing green multifunctional cosmetic film-forming agents.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020091

Authors: David Cajthaml Alison Ingraldi Aaron J. Tabor

Background/Objectives: Amniotic-derived biologics have emerged as powerful modulators of tissue regeneration. This study evaluates the composition and characteristics of a human stem cell-conditioned media (hSCCM) that is a sterile, cell-free, amniotic-derived solution, and the presumed efficacy of hSCCM as an active ingredient in an enriched cosmetic lotion. Methods: Data from preclinical benchtop studies and an exploratory observational assessment were reviewed. First, an investigation of the active ingredient, hSCCM, was completed. Flow cytometry assays were completed for mesenchymal stem cell (MSC) characterization. Cellular proliferation assays were conducted to evaluate concentration response, shelf life, and temperature stability. ELISA and LC-MS/MS were used to specify and detail the proteomics of the hSCCM. Second, the hSCCM-enriched lotion’s cosmetic safety and efficacy were evaluated. Preliminary microbial, stability, and early-stage nonclinical retrospective user evaluation of the hSCCM-enriched lotion was conducted to help characterize the cosmetic and evaluate topical safety and efficacy. Results: Flow cytometry demonstrated alignment with ISCT (International Society for Cell and Gene Therapy) characterization for MSCs. Initial in vitro data demonstrated enhanced proliferative effects at hSCCM concentrations as low as 5% (p-value < 0.0001); no statistically significant trend in proliferative capability in aged samples (p-value = 0.79), and no significant effect on proliferative capability when exposed to acute temperature changes (p-values all above 0.05) were observed. Proteomic characterization showed an enriched amniotic-derived solution. Microbial testing of the enriched lotion demonstrated success with multiple unique preservative formulations. hSCCM-enriched lotion demonstrated stability across acute cold- and heat-stress representative scenarios. An exploratory retrospective observational analysis revealed promising trends. Conclusions: The hSCCM demonstrates topical efficacy across in vitro dermal and follicular assays via proliferative and regenerative mechanisms and protein enrichment. The enriched lotion showed success in early-stage microbial and stability testing and demonstrates positive trends in topical skin outcomes. These findings support their potential translational application in dermatologic and aesthetic usage, and broader integumentary contexts.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020090

Authors: Sanghwa Lee Han Jo Kim Yeon Ji Choi Hee Dong Park Gaeun Oh Hae Kwang Lee Jin Hee Shin

Conventional treatments for androgenetic alopecia (AGA) are often limited by suboptimal efficacy and potential adverse effects, highlighting the need for alternative approaches. We aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a multi-targeted cosmetic formulation containing TrinogeniX™, composed of synthetic small-molecule inhibitors of glycogen phosphorylase, the prostaglandin D2 receptor, and 15-hydroxyprostaglandin dehydrogenase, developed using the artificial intelligence-driven platform DeepZema®, in individuals with AGA. This 24-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial involved 56 participants, of whom 49 completed the study. Efficacy was assessed using phototrichogram analysis, visual evaluation by dermatologists, and subjective questionnaires. Safety was evaluated based on adverse event reports and dermatological examinations. The test group demonstrated a significant increase in hair density and thickness over 24 weeks (p < 0.05), whereas no significant changes were observed in the placebo group. Expert visual assessments confirmed greater improvements in the test group. Subjective evaluations revealed consistently greater perceived improvements in hair loss symptoms, hair richness, and front hairline conditions in the test group. No adverse events or clinically significant abnormalities were observed. The multi-targeted cosmetic formulation (Motifull hair tonic) significantly improved hair density, thickness, and overall hair condition without adverse effects, suggesting its potential as a safe and effective option for AGA. Clinical trial registration: CRIS No. KCT0010804: A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial evaluating the efficacy and safety of “Motifull Hair Tonic” (tentative name) for the alleviation of hair loss symptoms.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020089

Authors: Júlia Cristiê Kessler Isabel M. Martins Yaidelin A. Manrique Sigrún Dögg Gudjónsdóttir Alírio E. Rodrigues Maria Filomena Barreiro Madalena Maria Dias

Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) plays an important role in skin regeneration and repair by promoting cell proliferation and collagen synthesis. However, its topical application is limited by low stability, susceptibility to degradation, and poor penetration through the stratum corneum due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size. Microencapsulation offers a strategy to protect sensitive bioactives and improve their delivery in cosmetic formulations. In this study, EGF was encapsulated in Arabic gum/gelatine A (AG/GE) coacervate microcapsules and incorporated into a hydrating cream. The work extends previous studies using the same microcapsule composition for lipophilic compounds, demonstrating its applicability for a hydrophilic bioactive and highlighting the versatility of the encapsulation platform. The resulting microcapsules exhibited spherical, multinucleated morphology with an encapsulation efficiency of 78.8 + 1.0%. Although diffusion of microencapsulated EGF in the cream could not be directly determined, the formulation showed trends towards improvement in several skin parameters during the volunteer evaluation, including reduction in surface spots (31%), brown spots (21%) and pore visibility (10%), and improved texture (22%). A 25% decrease in transepidermal water loss and a 33% increase in elasticity suggested improved skin barrier function. Volunteers reported high acceptance regarding non-irritancy, texture, and sensory experience.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020088

Authors: Niuosha Sanaeifar Rüdiger Kesselmeier Marina Kagan-Hoper Hanna Koch Michael Meer Werner Voss Kamila Szczurek

Background: Maintaining skin integrity is essential for individuals with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. This study was conducted to evaluate the skin tolerability and effects of a 3-in-1 pre-moistened wet wipe containing 3% dimethicone on prespecified skin biophysical parameters compared with cleansing using water and soap. Methods: In this monocentric controlled observational study, 30 adults with very dry, easily damaged skin used the wet wipe three times daily for 4 weeks on the intimate area and left shin, while the right shin was cleansed with water and soap. Hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin roughness were measured on the shins; the intimate area was assessed for clinical tolerability only. Results: The wet wipe was well-tolerated, with no clinically relevant skin reactions observed under the study conditions. On day 28, compared with water and soap, the wet wipe increased hydration (mean relative change +105.84%) and reduced TEWL (−16.44%) on the lower leg. Skin roughness decreased numerically (−13.90%), but the between-condition difference was not statistically significant. Conclusions: In adults with very dry and easily damaged skin, the 3-in-1 dimethicone-containing wet wipe was associated with favorable lower-leg hydration and reduced TEWL (a barrier-related indicator) compared with water and soap, with good clinical tolerability. Further site-specific studies with additional endpoints are warranted.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020087

Authors: Churapa Teerapatsakul Arthittaya Laisantad Theerachart Leepasert Chalermpol Suwanphakdee

An abnormal increase in acne-causing bacteria is the main cause of acne. This study aimed to investigate Piper griffithii C.DC. as a new source of compounds for inhibiting acne-causing bacteria and to provide the first elucidation of the mechanism of action against these bacteria. The antibacterial efficacy of 27 Piper species was examined against acne-causing clindamycin-resistant bacterial strains. Antibacterial activity of various crude extracts derived from leaves or stems extracted using hexane, ethyl acetate, or ethanol was evaluated. Ethyl acetate leaf extract of P. griffithii exhibited the greatest antibacterial effect against all tested bacteria. Zeylenone, an antibacterial substance isolated, purified, and characterized from the ethyl acetate leaf extract of P. griffithii, disrupts cell walls and membranes. Minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) values were 1.25, 2.5, and 7.5 mg/mL for Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, and S. epidermidis, respectively. Zeylenone derived from P. griffithii leaves was nontoxic to human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT). A formulated anti-acne gel with zeylenone was effective in controlling acne-causing bacteria. These results suggest that zeylenone isolated from P. griffithii leaves can be further developed as a natural ingredient in anti-acne products. This is the first report of the use of zeylenone from P. griffithii for eliminating acne-causing bacteria.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020086

Authors: Nuntawat Khat-udomkiri Worakamon Aranchot Onnapa Panarkas Nanthanat Nonthaman Pavittra Theprak

Glycolic acid (GA), a widely used alpha-hydroxy acid in cosmetic formulations, promotes exfoliation and stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis to synthesize collagen. However, its hydrophilic nature limits penetration through the stratum corneum, reducing its overall efficacy. This study aimed to develop and optimize an ethanol-based niosomal system to enhance GA skin delivery and formulation stability for cosmetic applications. Brij 97 combined with cholesterol at a 1:1 ratio and 10% ethanol produced the optimal formulation. Blank vesicles exhibited a mean vesicle size of 170.53 ± 5.05 nm and a zeta potential of −37.77 ± 2.21 mV, indicating favorable colloidal stability. Incorporation of 10% GA resulted in vesicles with a mean size of 176.93 ± 1.51 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.12 ± 0.02, and an entrapment efficiency of 75.48 ± 0.21%. In vitro permeation studies using Strat-M® membranes demonstrated significantly higher cumulative skin penetration (49.56 ± 8.95 mg/cm2) and sustained release over 24 h compared with a conventional GA solution. Stability testing under heating–cooling cycles and storage at 4 °C showed slight increases in vesicle size while maintaining homogeneity (polydispersity index (PDI) < 0.3). These findings highlight ethanol-based niosomes as an effective strategy for enhancing GA cosmetic performance.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020084

Authors: Peter Mayser Florian Genrich Sascha Gebhardt Laura Meunier Steffen Nordzieke

After the European Union’s ban of zinc pyrithione from cosmetic use, piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid have become the most common anti-dandruff active ingredients used in cosmetics today. Other conventional chemistries and less frequently used active ingredients, like hexamidine diisethionate and selenium sulfide, have also seen a recent upward trend. Entirely new technologies, like propanediol caprylate and propanediol undecylenate, are only in their initial stages but are ready to change the industry. The aim of the following study is to holistically characterize these compounds, regarding their chemical data, mode of action, and study results, where available, to shed light on the pros and cons and to take a detailed look at environmental considerations, market situation and regulatory aspects. In addition, many commercially available anti-dandruff consumer products combine multiple active ingredients to address the multifaceted nature of the condition, often targeting both fungal activity and scalp inflammation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020085

Authors: Jordi Bertrán Novella David Asensio-Torres Sonia Palenzuela-Larrarte Mónica Giménez

Massage relieves stress and anxiety, but also helps to reduce musculoskeletal problems, decreasing tension, in all stages of life. For pediatric use, organoleptic properties, cosmetic safety and user acceptability of topical products are important given the higher frequency of irritative or allergic episodes in young skin. We evaluate for the first time the comprehensive cosmetic performance of Physiorelax Forte Plus natural formulation in cream, spray and roll-on applied regularly in healthy and active children/adolescents. 210 healthy volunteers were included (150 adults with sensitive skin and 60 children and adolescents [6–16 years]). This three-part, sequential, observational, non-comparative pilot design monitored user experience under real-world conditions: (I) Open-label testing to assess skin compatibility in adults (N = 60); (II) In-use testing in adults for cosmetic acceptability and safety over 14 days (N = 90); (III) In-use testing in children/adolescents for 14 days (N = 60). Outcomes were dermatological assessments for tolerability and user (and/or parents/caregiver(s)-reported) satisfaction/acceptability and perceived benefits. No control group or objective efficacy measures were included. Among pediatric participants, no cutaneous reactions were observed at application sites after 14 days of use. Proxy reporting about consumer satisfaction and acceptability for the range were generally high. Principal component analysis revealed a clear three-cluster structure (sensory, functional, practicality), with roll-on driving the strongest differentiation across items and spray aligning most closely with sensory attributes, while cream showed an intermediate functional profile. The Physiorelax Forte Plus range demonstrated a favorable cosmetic safety profile and consumer acceptability in pediatric use under real-world conditions. Findings are limited by the observational, unblinded design, absence of a control group, and reliance on subjectively reported outcomes; no clinical or pharmaceutical claims are implied. Future controlled studies incorporating objective dermatologic endpoints, benchmark products, and direct child/adolescent reporting are warranted.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020083

Authors: Marta Wacewicz-Muczyńska Bogumiła Redlarska Julia Lendzioszek Agnieszka Dylewska

Ferulic acid, a derivative of hydroxycinnamic acid, is a potent antioxidant used in dermatology for its ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species and stabilize vitamins C and E. Its multidirectional action includes photoprotection, anti-inflammatory effects, and inhibition of melanogenesis. The study aimed to quantitatively evaluate the impact of 20% ferulic acid peels on skin barrier function, sebum level, pH, and biomechanical properties (elasticity). A group of 18 subjects underwent a series of three treatments. Objective skin parameters were measured. Assessments were conducted at baseline and 14 days post-treatment. A statistically significant increase in stratum corneum hydration was observed on the cheek. Barrier function improved significantly, with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) decreasing in both analyzed areas. Biomechanical analysis revealed a statistically significant improvement in elasticity (R2 parameter) on the cheek and forehead (p < 0.05). Ferulic acid has the potential to improve epidermal hydration and support the skin’s permeability barrier, as evidenced by reduced TEWL. The stability of skin pH suggests high tolerability, confirming ferulic acid as an effective therapeutic agent for mature and sensitive skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020082

Authors: Emilio Rubio Silvia Benito-Martínez Manuel Reina Claudia Müller-Sánchez Jordi Bosch David Manzano Miguel Perez-Aso

Although blackberries are associated with health benefits, their impact on adipocyte biology remains poorly understood. Here, we investigated the effect of a blackberry extract (Rubus fruticosus fruit extract, RFE) on adipogenesis and lipolysis in the 3T3-L1 cell model and characterized its transcriptomic response. Adipogenesis and lipolysis were assessed by Oil Red O and AdipoRed™ staining and glycerol release, respectively. RNA-Seq analysis was processed with the PIGx pipeline, and differential gene expression was evaluated with edgeR. RFE strongly promoted adipogenesis, increasing Oil Red O staining by 29% (n = 3, p < 0.01), and showed anti-lipolytic activity, reducing glycerol release by 51% (n = 3, p < 0.05). Whole-transcriptome analysis revealed that RFE significantly regulated 4904 genes, enhancing the adipogenic program. Functional profiling identified metabolic pathways influenced by RFE, including those related to lipid biosynthesis. Notably, RFE also modulated extracellular matrix (ECM) pathways, suggesting a shift toward a less fibrotic microenvironment. These findings indicate that RFE promotes subcutaneous adipose tissue expansion while supporting ECM remodeling, favoring healthy adipose growth and reduced fibrosis. To our knowledge, this is the first evidence that RFE simultaneously stimulates adipocyte differentiation and ECM remodeling. Overall, RFE emerges as a promising active ingredient for lipofilling cosmetic applications aimed at improving adipose tissue volume and quality.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020081

Authors: Alexey E. Avdeev Valentin I. Sharobaro Anastasiya S. Borisenko Anna S. Bairamova

Introduction: Facial aging is characterized by progressive soft-tissue descent, affecting all anatomical layers—from bone structures to the skin envelope. Early manifestations include downward displacement of the midface soft tissues, deepening of the nasolacrimal and nasolabial folds, and the appearance of soft-tissue “puckering” in the lower third of the face. At this stage, patients typically seek aesthetic correction to restore youthful facial contours with minimal or no visible signs of surgical intervention. Methods: This study is an observational analysis of a prospectively maintained surgical database including 201 female patients who underwent TESL between 2006 and 2024. Patient demographic data, surgical technique specifics, and postoperative outcomes were collected. A total of 612 procedures were performed. The cohort was stratified into two age groups: 30–35 years (n = 72) and 36–45 years (n = 129). Results: No cases of facial nerve injury or neurological complications were observed. Complications included 13 cases of localized cicatricial alopecia (6.47%) and four postoperative hematomas (1.99%). Eleven patients (5.47%) required minor secondary revision to address preauricular skin pleating. The technique demonstrated consistent and favorable outcomes in restoring soft-tissue volume and positioning, eliminating early lower-face “puckering,” and improving the cervicomental and mandibular contours. Conclusions: For patients under 45 years of age presenting with early signs of facial soft-tissue ptosis, endoscopic subcutaneous midface elevation with vertical SMAS plication is a safe, effective, and minimally invasive approach to rejuvenating the mid and lower face.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020080

Authors: Felipe Romici Zane Lordelo Nogueira Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso Luisa Taynara Silvério da Costa Wellington Ricardo Pereira Martins Amanda Letícia Santos Costa Ligia Maria Manzine Costa Lucinéia dos Santos

Chronic wounds are frequently associated with persistent inflammation, motivating the development of biofunctional materials capable of modulating cellular responses. In this proof-of-concept study, electrospun poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) nanomembranes were surface-functionalized by post-electrospinning drop coating with extracts derived from Agave sisalana agroindustrial residue obtained through two distinct routes: a saponin-rich fraction (EDP) and an acid-hydrolyzed sapogenin-enriched fraction (EAH). The study aimed to investigate how the extract phytochemical profile influences cytocompatibility and bioactivity when incorporated onto electrospun platforms. Phytochemical analysis revealed high total saponin content in EDP (33.83 ± 2.93 g/100 g) and significant sapogenin content in EAH (11.56 ± 0.60 g/100 g). SEM and FTIR-ATR analyses confirmed preservation of the fibrous architecture and polymer backbone, indicating predominantly physical surface incorporation. Biological evaluation demonstrated extract-dependent responses: PCL+EDP 5% exhibited marked cytotoxicity, consistent with the known membrane-disruptive properties of glycosylated saponins, whereas PCL+EAH 5% maintained high cell viability and showed anti-inflammatory activity (75% inhibition of phagocytosis; 56% protection against hemolysis) along with enhanced fibroblast migration (100% wound closure at 72 h). These findings highlight the critical role of extract chemical composition in determining the biological performance of surface-functionalized nanofibrous systems and support sapogenin-enriched fractions as safer bioactive modifiers for electrospun biomaterial platforms.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020079

Authors: Li Li Ji-Shuang Wang Lin-Nan Ke Ning-Yi Wei Hai-Yan Wang Gang-Li Wang

Assessing cosmetic quality, safety, and effectiveness demands advanced in situ, real-time, and multi-dimensional analytical technologies, while conventional methods suffer from complex sample preparation and incomplete analysis. Raman spectroscopy, with its non-invasiveness, specific molecular fingerprint, and micron-level spatial resolution, has become a key tool for cosmetic analysis. Based on a comprehensive review of the literature from 2000 to 2025, this article systematically examined the application of Raman spectroscopy in cosmetic analysis. The systematic search and screening process ensured the comprehensiveness and rigor of the review’s research foundation, as the 69 high-quality studies covered all core application areas of Raman spectroscopy in cosmetic analysis, providing solid literature support for subsequent technical summaries and trend analysis. This article systematically reviews the application of Raman spectroscopy in the cosmetic industry for ingredient detection (approved ingredients and hazardous substances), quality control (authenticity verification and production traceability), transdermal mechanism analysis (penetration pathways and interaction with skin barriers), and efficacy assessment. Combined with typical research cases, this study examined the technical principles and practical value, as well as the limitations and shortcomings of Raman technology applications. It ultimately provides suggestions for future developments in terms of portability, intelligence, and standardization, offering references for researchers to enable technological innovation and regulatory improvements in the cosmetics industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020078

Authors: Carmen-Elisabeta Manea Carmen-Marinela Mihăilescu Mirela Antonela Mihăilă Roxana Colette Sandulovici Daniel Cord Mirela Claudia Rîmbu Florin Adrian Marin Adina Boldeiu Vasilica Țucureanu Adina Turcu-Știolică Manuel Ovidiu Amzoiu Elena Truță Mona Luciana Gălățanu

The incorporation of plant-derived oils into cosmetic formulations has attracted increasing interest due to their natural origin, skin compatibility, and multifunctional formulation roles. Argan and castor oils are widely used in cosmetic products as emollient lipid components with intrinsic antioxidant properties. However, limited studies have systematically evaluated the physicochemical stability and antioxidant performance of emulsions combining these two oils. The aim of this study was to develop and comprehensively characterize a stable oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsion based on argan and castor oils using a natural non-ionic emulsifier (C14–22 Alcohol (and) C12–20 Alkyl Glucoside). Particular emphasis was placed on formulation stability, as it represents a critical prerequisite for further product evaluation. Stability was investigated through thermal stress testing (4–37 °C), centrifugation assays, droplet size analysis, and zeta potential measurements. Complementary physicochemical and structural characterization was performed using rheological analysis and Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The formulated emulsion exhibited good physical stability with no phase separation under the tested conditions, a skin-compatible pH, a uniform droplet size distribution (4.15 ± 0.68 µm), and pseudoplastic, moderately thixotropic rheological behavior. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, yielding an IC50 value of 19.21 ± 1.02 mg/mL. Overall, this study provides a formulation-oriented framework for the development and evaluation of stable natural oil-based O/W emulsions intended for cosmetic applications, supporting future optimization and biological validation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020077

Authors: Jinjin Liu Qian Wang Jialin Zhong Xiaoqing Wang Mei Zhang Yushu Wang Ya Zhao Le Zhu Runshuang Lu Haidong Jia Gang Ma

Background: As the body’s first line of defense against environmental stressors, the skin is highly susceptible to UVB-induced damage, which triggers inflammation and impairs barrier function. This study investigates the protective effects of safflower seed oil (SSO) and fermented Artemisia annua oil (FAAO) against UVB-induced skin injury. Methods: The protective effects of SSO and FAO against UVB irradiation was first tested in HaCaT keratinocyte. Subsequently, a UVB-irradiated SKH-1 mouse model was established to evaluate these two oils. RNA-seq analysis was employed to investigate the potential molecular mechanisms by which SSO and FAO repair the skin barrier. Results: In vitro experiments demonstrated that SSO (0.25%) and FAAO (0.1%) significantly enhanced HaCaT keratinocyte viability following UVB exposure while selectively modulating pro-inflammatory cytokine production. In a UVB-irradiated SKH-1 mouse model, standalone SSO or FAAO treatment partially ameliorated epidermal hyperplasia and restored UV-reduced collagen content, while the 1:1 SSO/FAAO combination exhibited superior efficacy in restoring skin architecture, reducing erythema and edema, and suppressing immune cell infiltration. Transcriptomic profiling revealed that the combined treatment promoted structural repair by attenuating inflammatory responses and preserving extracellular matrix homeostasis. Conclusions: Together, these findings underscore the potential of SSO/FAAO as a multifunctional botanical intervention for mitigating UVB-induced cutaneous damage.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020076

Authors: Giovanni Deusebio Annalisa Visciglia Angela Amoruso Marco Pane

Background: The skin microbiome plays a crucial role in maintaining barrier function and preventing inflammaging. Heat-treated probiotics offer stability advantages for topical formulations while potentially maintaining bioactive properties. Objective: To evaluate the safety, molecular mechanisms, and clinical efficacy of heat-treated Lactiplantibacillus plantarum Skinbac™ SB01 and Bifidobacterium animalis spp. lactis Skinbac™ SB05 in reducing visible signs of skin aging. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cytotoxicity (MTT/LDH assays), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). A 30-day open-label clinical study (n = 20 females, 18–70 years) evaluated three formulations (face cream, serum, and eye contour) using instrumental measurements of hydration, elasticity, density, and roughness parameters. Results: In vitro testing showed a significant increase in AQP3 expression (+22% ± 3%, p = 0.03) and a non-significant reduction in ROS levels (−33% ± 9%, p = 0.06) at 107 TFU/well, with no cytotoxicity observed. Clinical evaluation demonstrated statistically significant improvements: eye contour formulation achieved +10.5% deep skin hydration (p < 0.0001) and −11% average roughness (p < 0.0001); serum showed +28.7% immediate hydration (p < 0.0001); and face cream improved gross skin elasticity by +6.3% (p < 0.01). No adverse events were reported. An independent and methodologically distinct placebo-controlled study was included for contextual support and was not directly compared with the present trial; this study evaluated a related 1% postbiotic formulation and reported statistically significant improvements over placebo in roughness, wrinkle depth, hydration, and biomechanical parameters. Conclusions: This pilot study provides preliminary evidence that heat-treated L. plantarum SB01 and B. animalis spp. lactis SB05 formulations could safely improve skin hydration and reduce roughness parameters. While in vitro results show a significant increase in AQP3 expression and an exploratory (non-significant) reduction in ROS levels, larger controlled trials are warranted to confirm clinical efficacy.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020075

Authors: Sandra Mota Sara Cravo Joana Rocha e Silva Agostinho Almeida Clara Quintas Helena N. Ferreira Maria Elizabeth Tiritan Honorina Cidade Isabel Martins de Almeida

Global water scarcity, intensified by population growth, economic development, and climate change, presents a significant challenge, with the cosmetics industry contributing heavily to water demand. Simultaneously, the cork industry generates substantial amounts of cork boiling wastewater (CBW), an acidic effluent with environmental hazards. This study explored CBW’s potential for cosmetic application, focusing on safety, physicochemical properties, and suitability for incorporation in cosmetic formulations. Three CBW samples (A, B and C) were analyzed for pH, conductivity, turbidity, density, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity, and total phenolic content. CBW A displayed suitable physicochemical properties and potential antioxidant activity and was selected for further investigation. Human keratinocyte viability was assessed using CBW A before and after adsorption treatment with silica (TCBW A) to reduce cytotoxicity. CBW A was more toxic to human keratinocytes compared to control water, but treatment improved cell viability. This treatment had minimal impact on physicochemical parameters, aside from reducing phenolic content. Metal concentrations in TCBW A remained within cosmetic safety limits. TCBW A was incorporated into an oil-in-water (O/W) cream, which was further evaluated for pH, droplet size, rheological behavior, textural properties, and stability. The resulting cream was homogeneous, woody-scented, with uniform droplet size and stable after centrifugation. TCBW A incorporation provided suitable rheological behavior and formulation stability after 90 days of storage at 25 °C. These findings indicate that TCBW A has low cytotoxicity, suitable physicochemical properties, and provides stable cosmetic formulations, highlighting its potential as a sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020074

Authors: Aikaterini Liatsopoulou Athanasia Varvaresou Evangelia Protopapa

Paradoxical hypertrichosis is an adverse effect of photo-epilation, involving the induction of hair growth within treated or adjacent non-treated areas. Given the significant psychosocial burden associated with facial hair growth in women, effective adjunctive strategies to mitigate this phenomenon are required. Chymotrypsin and papain are bioactive proteolytic enzymes whose activity has been associated with structural alterations in hair follicle components. This study investigated the effect of combining Alexandrite laser with enzyme-assisted hair removal compared with laser alone on the occurrence of paradoxical hypertrichosis. The outcome was assessed by recording the number of laser pulses performed per treatment session. Fifty-nine adult Greek women with facial hirsutism were allocated into two groups: Group I (Laser + Enzymes, n = 30), treated with Alexandrite laser (755 nm) combined with iontophoretic delivery of aqueous chymotrypsin and papain solutions, and Group II (Laser, n = 29), treated with laser alone. After 10 sessions, the combined intervention resulted in a significantly greater change in laser pulse counts compared with laser alone (−18.53 ± 16.31 vs. +1.68 ± 9.61, p < 0.005). This finding suggests that adjunctive iontophoresis of bioactive proteolytic enzymes is associated with reduced laser pulse requirements, which may be considered in the clinical management of paradoxical hypertrichosis in women with facial hirsutism. Larger studies with extended follow-up are warranted.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020073

Authors: Faizatun Faizatun Nur Miftahurrohmah Rosmawati Rosmawati

Skin aging is driven by intrinsic factors, such as the accumulation of reactive oxygen species, and extrinsic factors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which accelerate oxidative stress and extracellular matrix degradation. Strategies to mitigate skin aging often focus on antioxidant and anticollagenase activities. Several studies have shown that Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) peel is an underutilized by-product rich in ellagitannins, which can be hydrolyzed into ellagic acid, a compound with well-documented bioactivity. Therefore, this study aims to investigate the effect of microbial fermentation using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and Saccharomyces cerevisiae on the physicochemical properties and bioactivity of pomegranate peel juice. Non-fermented juice (NFJ), L. plantarum-fermented juice (LFJ), and S. cerevisiae-fermented juice (SFJ) were used for comparative evaluation. The results showed that fermentation (LFJ and SFJ) led to decreased pH and sugar content, along with significant increases in ellagic acid concentration, antioxidant activity, and collagenase inhibition compared to NFJ. After 168 h, ellagic acid levels increased to 329.87 µg/mL in LFJ and 341.41 µg/mL in SFJ, compared to 263.86 µg/mL in NFJ. Antioxidant activity also increased to 73.82%, 83.25%, and 82.70% for NFJ, LFJ, and SFJ, respectively. Meanwhile, collagenase inhibition was 67.43%, 71.81%, and 73.66% for NFJ, LFJ, and SFJ, respectively. These results provide scientific evidence that microbial fermentation enhances the bioactivity of pomegranate peel juice, showing its potential as a sustainable source of natural ingredients for future cosmetic applications. Further studies on formulation, stability, and safety are needed to translate the results into practical skincare products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020072

Authors: Johannes-Paul Fladerer-Grollitsch Selina Fladerer-Grollitsch

Hair loss affects over half of adults by age 70 and represents a major determinant of overall hair health, imposing significant psychosocial burden across genders. Nutritional factors play a critical role in follicle biology, yet targeted strategies remain underexplored. This comprehensive review examines five key hair-constituent macromolecules—type I collagen, elastin, keratin, ceramides, and melanin—and their physiological and clinical impacts on hair structure, density, shining, and growth. We conducted a structured literature search in PubMed and Google Scholar through January 2025, selecting in vitro studies, animal experiments, and human clinical trials that evaluated each macromolecule’s effects on follicular function and hair fiber integrity. Type I collagen enhances dermal papilla cell proliferation, upregulates Wnt/β-catenin and growth factors, and improves hair thickness and breakage resistance in randomized controlled trials. Keratin hydrolysates replenish cortical protein, reinforce disulfide cross-links, and reduce telogen shedding, with clinical studies demonstrating 30–50% decreases in hair loss and gains in tensile strength. Oral ceramide formulations restore the cuticular lipid barrier, shift follicles toward anagen, and increase hair density in double-blind trials. Although direct clinical data on melanin supplementation are lacking, ex vivo and animal models confirm its role as a UV-protective pigment, preserving keratin integrity and color fastness. Together, these macromolecules constitute a coherent framework for hair health, and clinical studies increasingly provide evidence that their combined or parallel application can meaningfully enhance hair density, strength, shine, and resilience.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020071

Authors: Pornsatit Sookchoo Soottawat Benjakul Thummanoon Prodpran Thanaporn Amnuaikit Supranee Lao-ubol

Sunscreens are essential for photoprotection, but conventional inorganic UV filters raise concerns regarding marine toxicity. This study investigated hydroxyapatite (HAp) derived from skipjack, tongol, and salmon bone waste as a potential synergistic booster for Tinosorb® S (TS). HAp powders were prepared via alkaline treatment and calcination at 900 °C. XRD and XRF results confirmed highly crystalline HAp as the dominant phase. While 10% HAp alone provided negligible UV protection, a pronounced synergistic effect was observed in 1:1 hybrid formulations (5% HAp:5% TS), significantly enhancing Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet A Protection Factor (UVAPF). Notably, particle-size refinement of salmon-derived HAp (SM–HAp) yielded an SPF of approximately 35, comparable to a commercial HAp counterpart. This improvement was suggested to be associated with enhanced dispersion, film uniformity, and particle–matrix interactions, which might contribute to achieving PA++++ protection. All formulations complied with microbiological and heavy metal safety standards. These results indicated that fish bone-derived HAp could potentially serve as a viable and sustainable functional additive derived from marine biowaste for the development of high-performance hybrid sunscreens, promoting biomaterial valorization in the cosmetic industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020070

Authors: José Fernando Llanos-Rodríguez Alan David De La Fuente Malvaez Angélica Saraí Jiménez-Osorio Luz Berenice López-Hernández Jacqueline Solares-Tlapechco Gerardo Marín Carlos Castillo-Rangel Cristofer Zarate-Calderon Martha Eunice Rodríguez-Arellano

Background: Keloid scarring is a fibroproliferative disorder driven by a complex interplay of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, resulting in significant cosmetic and functional impairment. Despite its high prevalence in African, Asian, and Hispanic populations, the molecular mechanisms underlying ancestry-dependent susceptibility remain incompletely understood. Methods: This narrative review synthesizes current genomic, epigenetic, and multi-omic evidence related to keloid scarring. Relevant literature was identified through a targeted, structured, non-systematic search of PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, SciELO, and Google Scholar up to August 2025, focusing on genetic susceptibility loci, epigenetic regulation, and ancestry-related differences. PRISMA-ScR guidelines were used as a reporting framework to enhance transparency, without implying a formal systematic review methodology. Results: This synthesis identifies recurrent susceptibility loci at 1q41, 3q22.3, and 15q21.3 across multiple populations. Variants in NEDD4 and regulatory regions near BMP2 emerge as key modulators of profibrotic signaling pathways, including TGF-β/SMAD and NF-κB. Additionally, epigenetic reprogramming and long non-coding RNA networks, such as CACNA1G-AS1, appear to sustain fibroblast hyperactivation. A persistent limitation is the marked underrepresentation of Latin American populations in current genomic studies. Conclusions: Integrating ancestry-specific genomic variation with epigenetic markers is essential for advancing precision diagnostic and therapeutic strategies in keloid scarring. Future research should prioritize diverse, multicenter cohorts and integrative multi-omics approaches to improve risk stratification and enable targeted interventions for this disfiguring condition.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020069

Authors: Wiktoria Orzechowicz Tomasz Wasilewski Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran Natalia Stanek-Wandzel Joanna Fleszer Katarzyna Malorna

This study developed a facial skin care serum based on extracts from cornflower petals (Centaurea cyanus L.). The study applied the concept of loan extraction, in which the ingredients of the final cosmetic product were used as the extraction medium. The extracts obtained were analyzed for stability and physicochemical parameters, as well as phytochemical composition, total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant activity. Among the tested solvents, the extract prepared with 1,3-propanediol aqueous solution exhibited the highest TPC (13.5 mg GAE/g) and demonstrated the strongest antioxidant activity measured by ABTS (20.12 d ± 0.07 mgTE/g). HPLC-MS/MS analysis revealed that the extract obtained using this medium showed the most complex profile of bioactive compounds among all the studied samples. After the extraction process the borrowed ingredients were returned together with the extracted ingredients to prepare cosmetic preparations—facial skin care serums. The finished model cosmetic products were evaluated for physicochemical parameters (stability, viscosity, color) and irritation potential, considering the extract used, which varied depending on the extraction agent borrowed from the formulated composition. The preparation obtained on the basis of an aqueous solution of 1,3-propanediol as an extraction agent showed the most favorable properties in terms of irritation, determined on the basis of the zein number (15 ± 4 mgN/100 mL), compared to facial skin face serum without extract addition (21 ± 1 mg N/100 mL). This extract was also characterized by the highest values of TPC and antioxidant activity, hence the observed reduction in irritation potential can be attributed to the beneficial effects of bioactive compounds derived from Centaurea cyanus L. extract.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020068

Authors: Bingxue Liu Xingting Fan Jing Wang

Continuous exposure to environmental stressors necessitates the development of novel, effective, and safe cosmetic active ingredients to preserve the skin’s structural integrity and physiological function. In this context, chiral cosmetic actives have emerged as particularly promising candidates owing to their diverse skincare properties. Notably, stereochemistry can markedly influence biological activity, producing enantiomer- or diastereomer-specific differences in efficacy and safety. Herein, we summarize recent advances in the application of chiral bioactive molecules as cosmetic actives, organizing them according to biological activity. We provide a comprehensive discussion of their mechanistic biological activities, the activity differences arising from distinct stereochemical configurations, current limitations, and future prospects.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020067

Authors: Maurizio Cavallini Raquel Fernández de Castro Isalguez Francesco Marchetti Izumrud Ramazanova Kurbankadieva Ricardo Augusto Sandoval Vásquez Diogo Pereira Forjaz Silvia Zimbres Dissapong Panithaporn

Aesthetic medicine has progressed from the early 2000s fascination with bio-stimulation to the current dominance of hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers, prized for immediate, predictable, and reversible volumizing effects. Recently, demand for more natural results, stronger emphasis on skin quality, and increased post-pandemic self-scrutiny have renewed interest in regenerative strategies, sometimes called the “second wave of bio-stimulation.” This trend highlights the need for clearer terminology and a cautious, evidence-based reading of proposed biological mechanisms. This narrative review proposes a framework in which bio-regeneration denotes a hypothesized, controlled induction of physiological processes, fibroblast activation, collagen and elastin synthesis, extracellular matrix remodeling, and immune modulation, potentially producing sustained improvements in dermal structure and function beyond simple filling. Among emerging technologies, polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (PEGDE) cross-linking is reported to create a stable, flexible HA scaffold with homogeneous tissue integration, favorable rheology, thermal stability, and a reduced inflammatory profile, supporting safer multimodal use with energy-based devices. The framework is illustrated with PEGDE-crosslinked HA combined with low-concentration calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA), exemplified by a PEGDE-HA filler containing CaHA microspheres plus glycine and L-proline. These formulations aim to deliver immediate correction via HA and delayed stimulatory effects possibly driven by gradual CaHA exposure and macrophage-associated signaling. Available clinical, imaging, and histological observations, including prospective ultrasound and biopsy assessments, suggest progressive dermal thickening and predominant type I collagen expression, without pathological inflammation or granuloma formation. Although evidence remains preliminary and largely non-comparative, findings are compatible with controlled remodeling and resolving inflammation; however, the underlying mechanism and any ‘regenerative’ versus ‘reparative’ classification require controlled comparative studies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020066

Authors: Roberto Dell’Avanzato Matteo Basso Emanuela Di Lella Luciano Lanfranchi Francesco Marchetti Fabio Marini Mauro Rana Nicola Zerbinati Claudia Rita Mazzarella

Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogels are the most widely used injectable fillers for facial rejuvenation. A new generation of HA fillers crosslinked with poly(ethylene glycol) diglycidyl ether (PEGDE) has been developed to enhance cohesiveness, tissue integration, stability, and longevity while minimizing swelling and immunogenicity. Owing to their distinct viscoelastic properties, PEGDE-crosslinked HA fillers may require product-specific selection and adapted injection techniques. Objective: The objective of this study is to provide practical, expert-based recommendations for the safe and effective use of PEGDE-crosslinked HA hydrogels in facial aesthetic treatments. Methods: A multidisciplinary panel of nine Italian experts in aesthetic medicine, each with more than 15 years of experience using HA fillers, developed consensus recommendations based on clinical practice and available evidence. A pre-meeting questionnaire informed structured discussions during a face-to-face meeting held in Paris in January 2024. The nominal group technique was applied, with consensus defined as agreement by at least 80% of panel members. Results: Consensus was reached on product selection, injection planes, delivery devices, techniques, and typical treatment volumes for PEGDE-HA hydrogels across multiple facial regions, including the forehead, temples, midface, nasolabial folds, chin, jawline, and lips. Recommended injection techniques included microbolus, macrobolus, and retrograde linear threading, with placement ranging from superficial subcutaneous to supraperiosteal planes depending on the anatomical area and clinical indication. Typical injection volumes generally ranged from 0.1 to 0.5 mL per side. Optional ultrasound mapping was considered beneficial in selected high-risk or superficial procedures to improve anatomical safety. Conclusions: These expert consensus recommendations provide practical guidance for clinicians using PEGDE-crosslinked HA hydrogels in facial rejuvenation. Tailoring product characteristics to injection depth, technique, and regional anatomy may help optimize clinical outcomes and procedural safety. Future research priorities include prospective comparative studies with other crosslinking technologies, standardized reporting of adverse events, long-term outcome registries, and further evaluation of ultrasound-guided injection strategies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020065

Authors: Luiz Tonon Renata Viana Alessandra Haddad Luiz Eduardo Avelar

Background: Floating barbed threads are commonly used for minimally invasive midface lifting and rely on mobile subcutaneous tissue for support, which may limit stability. Fixation is primarily achieved by barb engagement within the subcutaneous fat and fibrous septa of the retinacula cutis. Objectives: To describe an anatomically guided modification of the APTOS Excellence Visage Soft (PLLA/PCL) thread technique, positioning the terminal segment posterior to the zygomatic retaining ligament line with the aim to enhancing mechanical stability. This technical report presents the anatomical rationale, procedural steps, and illustrative clinical cases demonstrating feasibility. Methods: The modified technique uses a single-entry point at the superior zygomatic margin, with five threads per hemiface. After linear insertion, the cannula is rotated laterally and inferiorly to position the terminal barbs posterior to the zygomatic retaining ligament line, thereby transferring tensile load toward a more fixed anatomical structure. Representative cases were documented and are presented. Results: Illustrative cases showed immediate midface elevation with improved malar projection and softening of the nasolabial and mentolabial folds. Standardized 3D imaging and vector analysis demonstrated a superolateral pattern of soft tissue displacement along the intended vectors, consistent with the proposed fixed-anchorage concept. The procedure was well tolerated, with only mild and transient local effects observed. One illustrative case included photographic follow-up at 12 months, in which preservation of midface contour and malar projection was visually appreciable. Conclusions: Redirecting the terminal thread segment posterior to the zygomatic retaining ligament line is a feasible modification that may contribute to improved vector stability by engaging a fixed fascial structure. Observations—including one case with 12-month follow-up—support the anatomical plausibility of the approach, although controlled studies with objective endpoints are necessary to confirm long-term efficacy and reproducibility.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020064

Authors: Remona Gopaul June Zhang

Thin, dry skin is characterized by impaired barrier integrity, loss of dermal density, and accelerated aging driven by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Biomimetic collagen peptides mimic native collagen sequences, stimulating fibroblasts to enhance synthesis while limiting matrix metalloproteinase-mediated degradation. This study evaluated the clinical efficacy and safety of a multi-ingredient cosmetic product for thin, dry, aging skin, formulated as a dual-purpose body and face serum lotion containing 0.1% biomimetic collagen tripeptide (Tripeptide-29) along with Niacinamide, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, and Selaginella lepidophylla extract. In this prospective, single-center study, 47 healthy women, aged 36–65 years with Fitzpatrick skin types I–IV, applied the formula twice daily to the face and body over four weeks. Objective measurements—including elasticity, wrinkle depth and volume, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and texture—were collected weekly alongside clinical grading and self-assessments. Significant improvements were observed across all parameters, with facial dryness decreasing immediately (−74.6%) and continuing to week 4 (−93.7%), hydration increasing up to 72.5%, softness improving up to 37.7%, roughness decreasing up to 37.9%, and TEWL reductions indicating strengthened barrier function. Desquamation improved by 75.5% by week 3, and no adverse effects occurred. The serum lotion demonstrated robust, well-tolerated benefits for enhancing multiple markers of thin, dry, aging skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13020063

Authors: Ela Hoti Camilla Elena Di Bella Sabina Hoti Dolores Vargas Peregrina Maria Giovanna Sabbieti Dimitrios Agas Piera Di Martino Susi Zara Maria Rosa Gigliobianco

The brewing process generates substantial by-products rich in potentially bioactive compounds (e.g., polyphenols and fermentation metabolites), providing a sustainable and appealing source of cosmetic ingredients. Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions containing 20% (w/w) aqueous extracts from Bionda Triplo Malto beer, wort, and key brewing by-products (hops, yeast, and spent grain) were developed and evaluated using a combined in vitro–in vivo approach. Aqueous extracts were first screened on human immortalized dermal fibroblasts (BJ-5ta) at 0.25–1 mg/mL for cytocompatibility and antioxidant activity. Within this concentration range, no significant changes in cell viability or intracellular antioxidant capacity under UV stress were detected, suggesting cytocompatibility but limited inherent activity. When incorporated into O/W emulsions and tested at an active-equivalent concentration of 10 mg/mL, the formulations increased fibroblast metabolic activity and antioxidant response. In contrast, free extracts at 10 mg/mL showed concentration-dependent cytotoxicity for some matrices, with beer- and yeast-based emulsions demonstrating the strongest effects. The emulsions exhibited good physicochemical stability (pH ~5.7–6.2; viscosity 4750–5150 mPa·s), passed the ISO 11930:2012 challenge test, and were well tolerated in patch testing. In a double-blind, randomized split-forearm study on 50 healthy volunteers over 30 days, beer, yeast, and spent grain-based formulations improved skin parameters versus baseline. TEWL decreased (e.g., beer: 16.22 ± 5.12 to 10.77 ± 2.22 mg·m−2·h−1; yeast: 16.29 ± 5.66 to 10.18 ± 1.08; spent grain: 14.45 ± 4.34 to 11.66 ± 2.28), hydration increased (beer: 35.15 ± 5.93 to 42.26 ± 3.78; yeast: 33.27 ± 4.87 to 42.92 ± 2.48; spent grain: 34.22 ± 5.19 to 41.16 ± 3.17, and elasticity improved for beer and yeast formulations (62.33 ± 3.27 to 70.24 ± 2.12 N/m) and yeast (61.21 ± 4.72 to 72.13 ± 5.55 N/m). Based on these findings, brewing-derived ingredients demonstrate potential as cosmetic actives, with formulation critically determining their clinical efficacy.