Cosmetics

Prostaglandin D₂ (PGD₂) levels are high in the balding areas of human scalps, and PGD₂ has been found to inhibit hair growth. It is known that the inhibition of the PGD₂ receptor can promote hair growth by preventing hair follicles from entering the catagen phase. Thus, we identified an antagonist of DP2, the receptor for PGD2, as a potential treatment for hair loss using an AI-based DeepZema^® drug development program. In this study, we identified that the DP₂ antagonist (DP2A) could ameliorate alopecia in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) that were stimulated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a known molecule related to hair loss. We observed that the DP2A promoted wound healing efficiency and increased alkaline phosphatase levels in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. In addition, we found that the DP2A diminished the reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels generated in the DHT-damaged HFDPCs. We confirmed that the DP2A effectively recovered the membrane potential of mitochondria in these cells. We also demonstrated that the DP2A enhanced the phosphorylation levels of both Akt and ERK in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. Notably, we revealed that the DP2A slightly enlarged the three-dimensional spheroid size in these cells and confirmed that the DP2A improved hair growth in the organ culture of human hair follicles. Taken together, we suggest that DP2A has therapeutic effects on HFDPCs that are damaged by DHT and holds promise as a potential treatment for treating hair loss. Full article

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale (BCSS) is a novel clinical tool designed to assess the psychopathological, psychosocial, and decision-making factors involved in accepting cosmetic procedures. This prospective, multicenter study aimed to propose and validate the BCSS, which considers aesthetic aspects, personal pathological history, and psychopathological implications leading to the acceptance of invasive or non-invasive aesthetic interventions. The study included 281 participants aged 18–66 years, divided into three groups: non-invasive cosmetic surgery (NICS), invasive and non-invasive cosmetic surgery (INICS), and individuals who had not undergone cosmetic surgery (NCS). Participants were randomly selected from patients visiting plastic surgery services and various medical services in Oradea, Romania, between October 2022 and March 2024. The BCSS comprises 20 items with Likert-type responses, ranging from one to five. The Multidimensional Scale of Perceived Social Support (MSPSS) was used to measure perceived social support. The BCSS aims to elucidate the patient’s desire for aesthetic procedures, whether it stems from an impulsive act, warrants a longer decision-making period, or necessitates addressing psychological or psychiatric conditions before scheduling the procedure. The scale enables cosmetic surgeons to assess whether the patient has been adequately informed and understands the risks and complications associated with the cosmetic surgical procedure. Full article

The purpose of this research was to assess the effectiveness of PRP injections into facial skin and to identify which of the studied blood parameters can affect the effectiveness of the procedure. The research involved 50 women aged 20 to 52 years who received intradermal PRP injections into facial skin. A general examination, complete blood count, and d-dimer, estradiol, and insulin in the blood serum were measured before the procedure, and assessment of the skin’s condition using a facial skin analyzer, assessment of midface volume changes using the Midface Volume Deficit Scale, assessment of aesthetic improvement by the doctor and the patient (Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale, GAIS) before and 1 month after the procedure were conducted for all the subjects involved in the research. According to the GAIS, both from the doctor’s and the patients’ perspectives, the majority noted some improvement in the skin condition after the procedure; however, according to the skin analyzer data, there were no statistically significant changes. A total of 56% of the patients displayed improvement in the midface volume, and this was observed in patients with a lower blood platelet count (≤259 × 10⁹/L) and a higher level of estradiol (>99 pg/mL) before the procedure. No undesirable effects were detected after the procedure. Full article

Recent data suggest that dandruff might be associated with dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. This mini review summarizes the microbiome changes seen with the dandruff condition, as well as different solutions for dandruff control and their effects on the scalp microbiome in relation to in vivo efficacy. Since zinc pyrithione has been banned from cosmetics in the EU, the medium-chain fatty acid ester propanediol caprylate is a new option, in addition to the remaining conventional ingredients: piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid. The ester is rapidly cleaved by Malassezia hydrolases in the external milieu, thereby releasing active caprylic acid. In addition to its auto-regulatory effects on Malassezia, propanediol caprylate is also able to influence the bacterial microbiota towards a healthier scalp microbiome. In vivo data have shown an efficacy comparable to climbazole and piroctone olamine. In vivo additive and synergistic effects in different combinations allow reductions in the concentration of conventional agents. Surprisingly, a new effect of a lasting healthier scalp has been identified in connection with ester use, in contrast to the usual return of dandruff experienced upon the discontinuation of anti-dandruff shampoo with conventional actives. We also report on new data from an unpublished comparative study on two propanediol monoesters confirming the long-lasting effect. Full article

The current research is focused on the discovery and optimization of an effective cosmetic carrier of alpha-bisabolol as a first step in the development of a cosmetic product with cleansing and antimicrobial action for facial skin hygiene. A micellar solution of Poloxamer 407 was selected as a cosmetic base because of the good washing ability, easy application, and high tolerability of this polymeric surfactant. The solubilization capacity of a 5% micellar solution with respect to α-bisabolol was investigated by applying varying solubilization techniques and increasing concentrations of the oily active substance. The test samples were subjected to an accelerated physical stability test, viscosimetry, dynamic light scattering (DLS), electrophoretic light scattering (ELS), foamability test, and antimicrobial screening. Over the course of this research, the advantage of the film-hydration method over direct solubilization was demonstrated by the narrower size distribution and smaller hydrodynamic size of the micellar nano-carriers (ranging from 29.02 to 116.5 nm) and the respective higher physical stability of the dispersions. The optimized composition was found to be suitable for application on large skin areas in terms of viscosity in the temperature range from 20 °C to 40 °C (3.4–2.3 mPa.s). Preservation of the washing capacity of the micellar solution in the presence of solubilized α-bisabolol was established. The active composition demonstrated inhibitory activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli and fungicidal activity against Candida albicans. This study concludes that the optimal concentration of α-bisabolol to be solubilized in a 5% Poloxamer 407 micellar solution by the film-hydration technique is 1%, considering the desirable physical endurance and antimicrobial activity. Full article

A key functionality for cleansing wipes is their efficiency in removing dirt and microbial contamination from the skin to safe or non-detectable levels, traditionally determined using the gravimetric method, which has been reported to be prone to experimental errors. This study evaluates the efficiency of a water-based cleansing wipe, WaterWipes^® (WaterWipes, UC, Drogheda, Ireland), for removing synthetic faecal matter (Feclone^TM, SiliClone Creations LLC, Havertown, PA, United States) and Escherichia coli (NCTC 10538) from volunteers’ skin, the former using a dermal analytical device called the Antera 3D^TM camera (Miravex Ltd., Dublin, Ireland), and the latter using standard microbiological methods. Feclone^TM was applied to participants’ forearms and the Antera 3D^TM camera captured detailed images of the skin surface before and after wiping. The Antera 3D^TM camera approach was found to be effective in measuring cleaning efficiency, with the wipe removing all detectable traces of the Feclone^TM applied. The total pore area (mm²), pore count, and total pore volume (mm³) in test participants post-wiping were observed to be reduced on average by 39.05%, 34.39%, and 39.98%, respectively. The wipe removed 99.99% of E. coli (NCTC 10538) applied, as measured using the microbial plate count method. In conclusion, the Antera 3D^TM camera method was observed to be effective in evaluating removal of topically applied Feclone^TM. Full article

Galloyl–RGD is a novel compound that combines gallic acid with RGD peptides (arginine, glycine, and asparaginic acid) to overcome the problems associated with gallic acid, such as instability at high temperatures and low solubility. In this study, we investigated the effects and molecular mechanisms of action of galloyl–RGD on UVB-induced skin photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts-neonatal (HDF-n). Galloyl–RGD increased collagen synthesis by inhibiting UVB-induced MMP-1 via inhibiting extracellular signal-regulated kinase and Jun N-terminal kinase and their downstream mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling, which are known to be representative photoaging mechanisms. The results of this study will be helpful for understanding the anti-photoaging effect and mechanism of galloyl–RGD and its future applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Full article

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed to a decrease in collagen and elastin produced by fibroblasts. Several theories explain skin aging, including the free radical formation, neuroendocrine, and mitochondrial decline theories. Based on a scientific understanding of skin behavior, different in vitro methods are used to evaluate the effects of new ingredients in cosmetics. Commonly used methods include anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity alongside techniques utilizing skin cells or 3D models. Although these methods are recognized and widely used, they lack standardization. In this review, a literature search has been conducted to examine the characteristics and variations of these methods across the laboratories. A key issue identified in this review is that many papers provide insufficient detail regarding their protocols. Moreover, the number of studies using cells is less significant than the ones determining enzyme inhibition. Our findings revealed that, in many cases, there is limited information available, underscoring the urgent need to initiate a comprehensive standardization process for the methodologies used to demonstrate anti-aging activity. Full article

Forest wealth, combined with innovative cosmetic applications, allows for the use of non-timber forest products like copal resin, diversifying resource use, promoting sustainable practices, preserving ecosystems, and generating income. The aim of this study was to evaluate a facial cream and a body gel formulated with essential oil extracted from copal resin obtained from agroforestry systems to determine their quality and consumer acceptance. Copal resin was collected from a silvopastoral system in Izúcar de Matamoros, Puebla, Mexico. Protocols were developed to ensure quality, safety, and efficacy, adhering to Mexican official standards, and accelerated stability tests were conducted to determine shelf life. Microbiological and irritability tests were performed to assess safety. Hedonic tests along with a random forest model were employed to identify the most important characteristics for consumer acceptance. The results indicated that both products met quality parameters regarding color, aroma, viscosity, and pH, and exhibited a shelf life of two years. Both products were free from harmful microorganisms, making them suitable for human application. Hydration, aroma, spreadability, and irritability were the most crucial variables for achieving higher consumer acceptance. Cosmetics can be formulated with copal resin essential oil. Full article

Facial hyperpigmentation is a highly prevalent dermatological condition, characterized by dark spots on the skin resulting from excess melanin production. Hyperpigmentation significantly impacts patients’ quality of life and self-esteem. Current treatments often present disadvantages linked to poor product tolerability. A topical cosmetic approach combining three lightening active ingredients (tranexamic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C) offers a new option for treating dark spots on the skin. The present in-use test under dermatological control evaluated the clinical safety and efficacy of a cream and serum containing these three ingredients, formulated with hyaluronic acid for enhanced delivery, stability, and efficacy. A total of 22 Caucasian patients with facial hyperpigmentation, both male and female, aged between 45 and 67 years, applied the cream and serum for 8 weeks. Clinical assessments, colorimetric evaluations, standardized photography, and self-assessment questionnaires were used to measure outcomes. No serious adverse effects were recorded, and the incidence of local adverse effects was low, highlighting good tolerability of the investigated test items. In most participants, significant improvements in hyperpigmented areas were recorded. Clinical scoring by the dermatologist investigator indicated a statistically significant 13% reduction in color intensity and a 6% reduction in the size of dark spots after 8 weeks of treatment. Colorimetric evaluation showed a statistically significant 1% increase in luminosity (L* parameter) and an 8% improvement in the Individual Typological Angle (ITA°) in endpoint, indicating lighter skin spots. Subjective assessments reflected high user satisfaction, with 95% of participants noting improvements in skin hydration and luminosity, and 77% reporting a reduced appearance of dark spots. Overall, the present work supports the use of tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C as an effective and well-tolerated combined topical management option for hyperpigmentation. This combination offers a viable alternative to classical whiteners for individuals seeking to reduce facial skin coloration imbalance and improve skin tone. Full article

Skin aging is a complex, multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging is crucial for developing effective anti-aging strategies. Dermal stem cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis, but their functionality is compromised with aging. This study investigated the impact of aging on dermal stem cells and explored the potential of natural extracts in modulating their biological characteristics. Using bulk RNA barcoding and sequencing (BRB-seq), we identified differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between young and aged dermal stem cells, revealing alterations in cellular processes, including cell proliferation, ECM synthesis, and RNA splicing. We also demonstrated that a natural extract, comprising callus cells and Alpine rose leaf extracts, influenced RNA splicing in aged dermal stem cells, leading to improved dermal structure and integrity in vitro. Our findings suggest that natural extracts may exert their effects through senolytic activity and the modulation of RNA splicing, a process crucial to gene expression and cellular function. This study underscores the potential of integrating high-throughput transcriptomics in understanding skin aging, presenting new avenues for the development of innovative, sustainable, and effective anti-aging strategies. Full article

The cosmetics industry is undergoing a shift towards sustainability and efficacy, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products. This paper introduces SVX, a spider silk-inspired raw material intended to transform cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation, SVX is a biopolymer composed of self-assembled proteins characterized by a porous structure for delivering active ingredients safely to the skin. The study utilized in vitro and ex vivo methods to assess SVX’s ability to protect against oxidative stress, enhance skin hydration, and support ingredient delivery. Safety assays, including the HET-CAM, patch test, and HRIPT, demonstrated that SVX is non-irritating and safe for topical application. Additionally, FTIR analysis confirmed SVX’s capacity for sustained release of active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, over an 8 h period. Results showed that SVX significantly improved skin barrier protection and exhibited superior antioxidant properties compared to control formulations. Its biocompatibility, along with a vegan and biodegradable composition, aligns with the principles of sustainability, with over 60% biodegradability achieved within 10 days. Furthermore, SVX displayed antioxidant efficacy approximately 130 times greater than L-ascorbic acid, based on DPPH assay results. These findings suggest that SVX offers a versatile and sustainable solution for skincare formulations, combining environmental responsibility with benefits for skin health and performance. Full article

Objective: The aim of this study was to systematically review the safety and effectiveness of the injectable biostimulators dermal fillers calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and polycaprolactone (PCL) in facial esthetic procedures. Materials and Methods: Comprehensive electronic searches were executed across six academic databases. The primary outcome focused on safety by examining studies that reported the incidence of adverse events (AEs). The secondary outcome gauged the satisfaction of the patients and injectors by validated esthetic scales. To evaluate biases, the Joanna Briggs Institute Checklist tools were employed. Results: We included a total of 79 studies. In the quantitative assessment of the CaHA, out of 5032 injected patients, 21.8% manifested early AEs, 0.85% experienced delayed reactions, and 0.27% had severe complications. Within the PCL group, consisting of 1119 patients, 83.3% exhibited early AEs, 5.6% had delayed reactions, and none had serious complications. Regarding esthetic satisfaction outcome, both products presented favorable results, but a limited number of studies assessed these data. In the studies evaluated qualitatively, a broad array of AEs were cataloged. Conclusions: The occurrence of serious AEs associated with CaHA and PCL fillers is relatively low. Both CaHA and PCL fillers exhibit favorable safety profiles, with most AEs being transient in nature. Full article

(1) Background: The demand for body-contouring procedures has surged, with lipolysis emerging as a common technique for excess fat removal. Laser-assisted lipolysis (LAL) has gained attention as a potential alternative to surgical fat removal (SFR), offering perceived advantages in safety and efficacy. However, the comparative benefits of LAL and SFR remain uncertain. (2) Objective: To conduct a review of the existing literature comparing the efficacy, safety, and patient satisfaction of LAL and SFR. (3) Methods: A comprehensive search of major electronic databases was conducted to identify studies comparing LAL and SFR for body-contouring procedures. Studies were included if they were published in English, involved human subjects, and reported outcomes for LAL and SFR. All studies were classified according to the Oxford Center for Evidence-Based Medicine evidence hierarchy (4) Results: LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR. However, the evidence for these differences was limited by the quality of the studies and the heterogeneity of the results. (5) Conclusions: This review suggests that LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR for body-contouring procedures because LAL is associated with higher risks of complications such as burns and scarring, whereas SFR offers a more established safety profile and consistent efficacy. Full article

This review aims to provide a detailed overview of the botanical, phytochemical, and dermatological properties of Juglans regia (J. regia). The entire tree contains a wealth of chemical compounds, including phenols, tannins, alkaloids, saponins, reducing sugars, and amino acids, which contribute to its significant nutritional and pharmacological value. Extracts and oils from all parts of J. regia have been studied for their effects on various skin conditions, demonstrating antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, and chemoprotective properties. Additionally, these substances have shown potential in promoting wound healing, anti-aging, skin hydration, anti-tyrosinase activity, and hair dyeing. These benefits have been evaluated in various in vitro and in vivo studies. The therapeutic potential of J. regia suggests that its components could be integrated into treatment protocols and skincare routines. However, to optimize effectiveness and safety, future research should focus on in vivo studies in human subjects to determine the ideal concentrations and formulations of J. regia active compounds for specific skin conditions. Full article

The present study aimed to analyze the antifungal, antioxidant, and irritant potential of citronella oil, both isolated and combined with caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), for topical oral candidiasis. The antioxidant potential was evaluated using two methods, the DPPH test and the reducing power test (FRAP), while the irritant potential of the solutions was assessed through the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). The DPPH test (IC50) values for the CITRO III + CAPE III combination were 32 ± 9 mg/mL, and for isolated CAPE, 13 ± 3 mg/mL. The results from the FRAP method revealed a low iron-reducing power for the combination of 1.25 mg/mL of citronella and 0.0775 mg/mL of CAPE (CITRO III + CAPE III), showing no significant difference compared to the isolated solution of 0.15 mg/mL of CAPE. The antibacterial activity of CAPE and isolated citronella in vitro against microorganisms was evaluated using two methods: microdilution and biofilm assay. The results showed that the MIC and MFC values were 0.5 mg/mL for citronella at both tested times (24 h and 48 h). For CAPE, the MFC values were 0.031 mg/mL. For the biofilm assay, the isolated compounds and combinations at 1 min and 6 h showed significantly different results from the controls (p < 0.05). Furthermore, the HET-CAM results demonstrated the absence of irritability. Based on these premises, the antifungal and antioxidant actions, and absence of irritability were proven. Moreover, this work presents a natural antifungal of interest to the pharmaceutical industry. Full article

Economic and environmental issues translating into energy costs and pollution within the production environment are increasingly attracting attention. Industrial Energy Efficiency (IEE) is gaining ever-higher importance within production environments. Since cosmetic consumers and companies are becoming increasingly sensitive to sustainability, the cosmetic field is working to reduce the environmental and social impact along the whole supply chain. Furthermore, IEE actions in business processes can lead to several medium- and long-term economic and environmental benefits. This paper is the first work in the literature presenting a real-case application of energy analysis and modeling to achieve better energy performances in a cosmetics production process. Thus, in the body of knowledge, it contributes by providing a real case of good practice to be benchmarked for future IEE interventions in cosmetics manufacturing processes. The work has been conducted by analyzing the production process’s energy consumption and developing an energy model of a selected machine (i.e., a turbo-emulsifier). The analysis and modeling performed aimed at assessing the different operational phases of the machine and evaluating the different behaviors of the data. Finally, the results allowed us to propose possible improvements to be applied to the production process to achieve better energy performances. Full article

Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular form of tattooing applied to the eyebrows, eyelids, and lips for corrective and aesthetic purposes. It also has medical applications, such as reconstructing the breast areola, mimicking hair follicles on the head, and covering scars and vitiligo. Unlike body tattoos, PMU often requires reapplication to maintain color density and shape, as the pigments fade over time. This fading is likely due to the characteristics of PMU colorants rather than the application methods or apparatuses. The aim of our study was to assess the application depth of PMU colorants and tattoo ink after procedures. PMU colorants typically contain larger pigment particles in their composition compared to the nanoparticles found in traditional tattoo inks. We applied both tattoo ink and PMU colorants on SKH-1 mice using a PMU apparatus and a tattoo apparatus. To clarify the semi-permanent nature of PMU compared to the more permanent body tattoos, skin biopsies were performed at various intervals throughout this study. The results showed that PMU and tattoo ink were placed at approximately the same depth but exhibited key differences in behavior. PMU with larger inorganic pigments fades over time, while tattoos with smaller, stable organic pigments ensure permanence. Full article

Introduction: This study was conducted to question the findings of a prior study published in Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDD) in September 2023, which reported that a topical firming and toning body lotion (FTB—SkinMedica^®, Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, Irvine, CA, USA) upregulated several genes in a UV-irradiated 3D full-thickness human skin model, outperforming other products, including TransFORM Body Treatment with TriHex Technology^® (ATF—Alastin Skincare^®, a Galderma company, Fort Worth, TX, USA). Given the unique response reported for FTB, we conducted this study to assess the reproducibility of these results and explore gene expression at multiple time points, along with validating protein expression in an ex vivo model. Materials and Methods: Experiments were conducted using an ex vivo model with photodamaged skin from facelift patients, under an Institutional Review Board-approved study. Skin samples were processed, cultured in transwells with Skin Media, and treated daily with either TransFORM or FTB for 7 days. A control group was left untreated. Gene expression was assessed using RT-PCR on days 1 and 3 and using immunofluorescence after 3 and 7 days of treatment. Skin samples were fixed, paraffin-embedded, sectioned, and stained with an anti-tropoelastin antibody. Fluorescence detection and imaging were conducted to assess protein expression changes. Results: Gene expression data from our study and the initial study showed a few similarities but multiple discrepancies. As opposed to results previously reported at only the 24 h time point, our study was completed at multiple time points and showed a complete reversal of many of these results. For example, COL1A1 expression at 24 h was similar for FTB in both studies but differed for TransFORM, which showed higher levels at 24 h in our study. At day 3, COL1A1 expression decreased markedly for FTB and was sustained for TransFORM. Other genes, such as COL3A1, COL5, ELN, VEGFC, ATG7, ATG12, BECN1, POMP, PSMB5, and PSMB6, exhibited varying expression patterns between the two studies and across different time points. From a translational perspective, histological analysis showed that TransFORM enhanced elastin fiber presence in the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) more effectively than FTB at both days 3 and 7. FTB-treated samples maintained a gap in the DEJ, while TransFORM-treated samples exhibited increased cellular proliferation and DEJ undulation, indicative of a healthier regenerative response. Conclusion: This study highlights the problems of examining data and drawing conclusions using a single point of examination. In addition, when a study reports positive results for only one product among a range of eight competitive products, further questioning is essential to exclude the possibility of the experimental model favoring that product. The additional 3-day time point and further translational examination of histological changes paint a completely different picture to that reported in the prior publication. TransFORM outperformed FTB in most gene expressions and histological parameters when assessed over multiple time points in a physiologically relevant ex vivo model. Full article