Cosmetics

15 pages, 1199 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Influence of Titanium Dioxide Particle Size on the Photo-Protective Properties of Pharmaceutical Preparations and Their Effectiveness Assessment Using Hyperspectral Imaging Methods

by Anna Stolecka-Warzecha, Elżbieta Mickoś, Daria Śniecińska, Dominika Malewicz-Skrabania, Adam Wilczyński and Sławomir Wilczyński

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 242; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060242 - 3 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO₂-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. [...] Read more.

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO₂-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of TiO₂ particle size on the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations using hyperspectral imaging (HIS). Methods: This study analyses directional reflectance of skin covered with preparations containing TiO₂ particles < 5 µm and <100 nm across the spectral range 400–1002 nm. Results: Preparations with TiO₂ < 5 µm showed higher reflectance in both the 400–633 nm and 900–1002 nm ranges, while no significant protective enhancement was observed in the 636–897 nm range. Conclusions: Larger TiO₂ particles provided more significant photoprotection across a broader wavelength spectrum, highlighting the importance of particle size selection in modern sunscreen formulations. This experimental in vitro study evaluated the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations containing titanium dioxide particles of different sizes. The measurements were performed using hyperspectral imaging in the 400–1000 nm range, covering ultraviolet and visible light. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 2261 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Polyherbal Formulation That Mitigates Cellular Damage in Narrowband UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

by Sineenad Teerapatpaisan, Alisa Naladta, Suthasinee Thapphasaraphong and Natsajee Nualkaew

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 241; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060241 - 31 Oct 2025

Abstract

Narrowband ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) phototherapy, used for treating skin diseases, can induce skin aging, cause inflammation, and reduce cell viability due to reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. To mitigate these adverse effects, a multi-target polyherbal mixture for topical application was developed. This study [...] Read more.

Narrowband ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) phototherapy, used for treating skin diseases, can induce skin aging, cause inflammation, and reduce cell viability due to reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. To mitigate these adverse effects, a multi-target polyherbal mixture for topical application was developed. This study investigated the effects of a polyherbal combination comprising Zingiber officinale (ZH), Garcinia mangostana (GE), and Centella asiatica (CAEw) extracts against NB-UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Extracts were prepared to obtain high levels of specific biomarkers (compound D, α-mangostin, and asiaticoside). They were characterized for total phenolic and total flavonoid content, antioxidant properties, and anti-collagenase activity. The ability to enhance HaCaT cell viability after NB-UVB exposure was evaluated to determine the optimal polyherbal mixture ratios. Both the individual extracts and polyherbal formulations significantly improved irradiated HaCaT cell viability. Subsequent treatment with 100 µg/mL of the polyherbal mixture ZH:GE:CAEw (1:1:1) increased cell viability from 62.3% to 80.1% and decreased intracellular ROS (63.6%) without reducing cell apoptosis. It also downregulated the gene expression of cyclooxygenase-2, inducible nitric oxide synthase, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), and MMP-9, allowing their expression to reach the normal level of the non-irradiated cells. In conclusion, the polyherbal mixture effectively attenuated NB-UVB-induced damage and premature aging in HaCaT keratinocytes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 3618 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel Development of a Curcuma aromatica Salisb Extract-Loaded Hydrogel Patch for Acne and Skin Inflammation: Physicochemical Properties and In Vitro Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Activities

by Chonthicha Kongkwamcharoen, Suwipa Ungphaiboon, Buncha Ooraikul and Chuchard Punsawad

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 240; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060240 - 28 Oct 2025

Abstract

Background/Objectives: Inflammatory skin disorders such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne that affect patients’ quality of life and health require safe and effective active delivery systems. In Thai traditional medicine, Curcuma aromatica has long been used to treat skin disorders and for cosmetic [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: Inflammatory skin disorders such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne that affect patients’ quality of life and health require safe and effective active delivery systems. In Thai traditional medicine, Curcuma aromatica has long been used to treat skin disorders and for cosmetic skin care. However, the research is scarce. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a novel anti-inflammatory and anti-acne hydrogel patch containing C. aromatica extract. Methods: The hydrogel patch formulations were prepared, and their mechanical properties, in vitro release, skin permeation, in vitro anti-inflammatory and anti-acne activities, and physicochemical properties were studied. Results: The C. aromatica hydrogel patch (CA2 formulation) made from carrageenan, locust bean gum, PVP-K30, and C. aromatica extract displayed excellent physical appearance and mechanical properties; it was smooth, durable, and flexible. Curcumin, an active ingredient, was released from the C. aromatica hydrogel patch within the first 30 min (19.07 ± 1.14%), reaching its peak at 12 h (50.40 ± 3.94%), with sustained permeation of 38.18 ± 0.45% at 24 h. Data from the drug release and permeation study better fit Higuchi’s kinetic model. Additionally, the CA2 hydrogel patch demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity, with an IC₅₀ value of 19.85 ± 0.82 μg/mL, and was also effective against Cutibacterium acne, with an inhibition zone of 12.70 ± 2.10 mm. Conclusions: The developed C. aromatica hydrogel patch not only showed great physicochemical properties but also had anti-inflammatory and anti-acne activities; it prolonged curcumin release, enabling delivery of the drug to treat skin inflammation disorders. The CA hydrogel patch is suitable for use as an anti-acne facial mask and for inflamed skin areas; however, it should be further evaluated in clinical trials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 2750 KB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin: Assessing Rheological Properties, Stability, and Safety

by Antonia Mancuso, Antonio Silletta, Mario Verdiglione, Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonella Barone, Jolanda Sacco, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 239; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060239 - 27 Oct 2025

Abstract

Skin compatibility is a common issue and can often be worsened by certain ingredients in cosmetics. This is why developing well-balanced and -tolerated formulas is now an essential challenge. In this work we developed a cream rich in antioxidant, soothing, and moisturizing agents [...] Read more.

Skin compatibility is a common issue and can often be worsened by certain ingredients in cosmetics. This is why developing well-balanced and -tolerated formulas is now an essential challenge. In this work we developed a cream rich in antioxidant, soothing, and moisturizing agents complying with concentration limits for sensitive skin. An initial optimization was carried out, and the best-performing formula was fully characterized to test its rheological properties under static or dynamic conditions and product safety. The formulation proved to be highly stable even under thermal stress, as shown by Turbiscan Lab analyses, which reported backscattering values ±2. Rheological tests also indicated a solid-like behavior with reduced viscosity at skin temperature of 32 °C, confirming the good spreadability of the cream. Finally, in vivo tests on healthy volunteers showed excellent safety results and good overall appreciation of the product. No changes in transepidermal water loss (7.9 ± 3.5 vs. 5.5 ± 0.4, p > 0.05), skin hydration (44.2 ± 18.6 vs. 50.5 ± 14.1, p > 0.05), or color were detected within 6 h from application, compared with baseline values. Moreover, volunteers highlighted the cream’s suitability for dry skin and expressed satisfaction with spreadability, a nourishing and hydrating sensation after application, and the absence of residues, consistently rating them ≥4 in the skin feeling questionnaire. These results are promising and support the potential use of the product on sensitive skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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34 pages, 10274 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phyto-Assisted Synthesis and Investigation of Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles for Their Anti-Aging, Sun Protection and Antibacterial Activity

by Harshad S. Kapare, Mayuri Bhosale, Pawan Karwa, Deepak Kulkarni, Ritesh Bhole and Sonali Labhade

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 238; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060238 - 24 Oct 2025

Abstract

Objective: This study aimed to develop eco-friendly zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) using Punica granatum (pomegranate) peel extract and to evaluate their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and photoprotective potential. Method: ZnO NPs were synthesized via a green chemistry route employing polyphenol- and flavonoid-rich peel extract [...] Read more.

Objective: This study aimed to develop eco-friendly zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) using Punica granatum (pomegranate) peel extract and to evaluate their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and photoprotective potential. Method: ZnO NPs were synthesized via a green chemistry route employing polyphenol- and flavonoid-rich peel extract as reducing and stabilizing agents. The nanoparticles were characterized using FTIR, SEM, XRD, DSC, DLS, and UV–Vis spectroscopy. Biological activities were assessed through in vitro assays including antioxidant (DPPH), anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial activity, and SPF determination. In vivo photoprotective efficacy was further evaluated in UVB-irradiated rat models, with histological analysis to confirm structural skin changes. Results: The optimized ZnO NPs exhibited an average particle size of ~194 nm with a zeta potential of −18.2 mV, indicating good stability. They demonstrated notable antioxidant activity (DPPH IC₅₀ = 52.91 µg/mL), substantial tyrosinase inhibition (72% at 200 µg/mL), and antibacterial activity with inhibition zones up to 19 mm against S. aureus and 17 mm against E. coli. The nanoparticles also showed excellent UV absorption, with an SPF value of 29.8, exceeding the FDA threshold for effective sun protection. In vivo, topical application of ZnO NPs in UVB-exposed rats led to a 69% reduction in epidermal thickness and preservation of collagen fibers compared with UV controls. Conclusions: These findings confirm that P. granatum peel extract–mediated ZnO NPs possess significant antioxidant, antimicrobial, and photoprotective activities. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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20 pages, 2654 KB

Open AccessArticle

Persicaria tinctoria Extract Mitigates UV-Associated DNA Damage and Inflammation, While Boosting Vitamin D3 and Melanin in Human Skin

by Morgane de Tollenaere, Catherine Zanchetta, Anaïs Durduret, Jessy Martinez, Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 237; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060237 - 23 Oct 2025

Abstract

Benefit/risk management of skin exposure to sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) rays, is mainly driven by photoaging, cancer incidence, and the requirement for vitamin D3 synthesis. Antioxidant phytocompounds are considered to be a valuable source of molecules to protect skin from UV-induced damage, but [...] Read more.

Benefit/risk management of skin exposure to sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) rays, is mainly driven by photoaging, cancer incidence, and the requirement for vitamin D3 synthesis. Antioxidant phytocompounds are considered to be a valuable source of molecules to protect skin from UV-induced damage, but their impact on other UV-related metabolic pathways is rarely described. In this study, an indigoid-rich Persicaria tinctoria extract (PTE) was evaluated on three consequences of UV exposure: DNA damage and inflammation, vitamin D3 content, and melanogenesis. A moderate UV exposure was applied on skin models, corresponding to approximately 1 h exposure in the spring in western Europe. UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation were measured through the quantification of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and cytokines. Response to heat stress was quantified through the release of prostaglandin. Then, the impact of PTE on vitamin D3 and melanin synthesis was observed. PTE decreased by −56% in the number of cells presenting CPDs. PTE decreased the production of pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-6 (−59%) and stimulated the release of the protective cytokine IL-1Ra (+49%). It decreased PGE₂ release by −27%. In skin explants, PTE boosted the vitamin D3 concentration (+345%). Several genes involved in melanogenesis were up-regulated by PTE (MC1R × 2.46, MITF × 1.69, TYR × 2.06, MLPH × 1.53). It promoted melanin content by +126% and by +86% when associated with SPF 30. The extract decreased the amount of protective eumelanin, leading to visible skin tanning of reconstructed human epidermis (L*-15%, ITA −125%). As a new finding, PTE minimized DNA damage and inflammation caused by a daily dose of UV, and surprisingly, promoted vitamin D3 and eumelanin synthesis, suggesting that it represents an opportunity to reconcile skin protection and the physiological need for sunlight. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 624 KB

Open AccessReview

Evaluation, Symptoms, Influencing Factors, and Prospects of Sensitive Scalp: A Literature Review

by Xiaoxi Yan, Qian Jiao, Congfen He, Yan Jia, Huaming He and Cheng Zhou

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 236; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060236 - 22 Oct 2025

Abstract

Sensitive scalp (SSC) is a common but often overlooked dermatological state, characterized by subjective symptoms such as pruritus, tingling, tightness, pain, or burning sensations. Primary SSC typically occurs in the absence of visible clinical inflammation. Numerous studies have suggested that the onset of [...] Read more.

Sensitive scalp (SSC) is a common but often overlooked dermatological state, characterized by subjective symptoms such as pruritus, tingling, tightness, pain, or burning sensations. Primary SSC typically occurs in the absence of visible clinical inflammation. Numerous studies have suggested that the onset of SSC may be influenced by a variety of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including physical (ultraviolet radiation, changes in temperature and humidity), chemical (cosmetic ingredients, environmental pollutants), and psychological factors (emotional stress). This article provides a narrative review of the current research on SSC, drawing on literature published between 1963 and 2024 in PubMed, Elsevier, and Web of Science databases. We summarize its hallmark symptoms, available evaluation methods, potential mechanisms, and contributing factors and propose corresponding scalp care recommendations. This review aims to offer theoretical insights into the pathogenesis of SSC and to support the development of effective protective strategies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 2884 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Safety of a Novel Anhydrous 0.1% Retinal-Based Concentrate with Hydrophilic Actives for Photoaged Skin: A Six-Week Prospective Study

by Ulf Åkerström, Chloé Gaudicheau, Blandine Locret and Johanna Maria Gillbro

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 235; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060235 - 22 Oct 2025

Abstract

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and [...] Read more.

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation—while offering improved tolerability compared to prescription-based retinoids like all-trans retinoic acid. However, their instability in formulations and limited bioavailability when applied topically remain major challenges. Objective: This exploratory study aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of a novel mix-activated anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate formulated also with hydrophilic active ingredients—N-acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide, ascorbic acid, and alpha-glucan oligosaccharide—in improving signs of skin aging over six weeks. Methods: A prospective, single-center study was conducted with 27 healthy adults (24 female and 3 male, aged 40–69 years, 21 with skin phototype III and 6 with phototype II) exhibiting visible signs of photoaging. Participants applied the retinal concentrate once daily, mixed in a 1:2 ratio with a moisturizer before application. Objective skin parameters, including pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, texture, volume, and pore visibility, were assessed using the Antera 3D imaging system at baseline and after six weeks. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed at week six. Statistical significance was determined using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (p < 0.05) and was corrected for multiple analyses. Results: Significant improvements were observed across all parameters: pigmentation (−12%, p < 0.0001), fine lines (−14%, p < 0.0001), wrinkle depth (−5%, p = 0.0045), skin texture (+12%, p < 0.0001), volume irregularities (−15%, p < 0.0001), and pore visibility (−24%, p < 0.0001). No significant change in redness was detected (p = 0.6664), indicating a good tolerability to the test product. Self-assessments reflected high user satisfaction: 81% reported improved skin appearance, 43% noted reduced need for makeup use, and 40% observed visible improvements already within two weeks. Conclusions: The anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate with hydrophilic actives significantly improved clinical signs of photoaging without causing irritation. The innovative mix-activated formulation stabilizes sensitive ingredients and enhances their efficacy, offering a novel, active, and well-tolerated approach to anti-aging skincare. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 1272 KB

Open AccessCommunication

Glutathione Trisulphide Improves Skin Brightness with Anti-Melanogenesis Effects and Maintains Intracellular Persulphide Levels

by Yoshiaki Uchida and Toshiya Sato

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 234; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050234 - 21 Oct 2025

Abstract

Melanin, the principal component of skin pigmentation, is produced through tyrosinase activity. Recently, supersulphides have been identified in human cells and found to play a role in maintaining cellular activities. Glutathione trisulphide (GSSSG), a supersulphide with antioxidant properties, has various biological effects. However, [...] Read more.

Melanin, the principal component of skin pigmentation, is produced through tyrosinase activity. Recently, supersulphides have been identified in human cells and found to play a role in maintaining cellular activities. Glutathione trisulphide (GSSSG), a supersulphide with antioxidant properties, has various biological effects. However, the influence of melanin production on intracellular persulphide levels remains unclear, and no studies have reported the anti-melanogenic effects of GSSSG. Therefore, we aimed to elucidate the impact of melanogenesis on intracellular persulphide abundance and synthesis, as well as the efficacy of GSSSG in inhibiting melanogenesis in melanoma cells. In this study, B16-F0 cells were used to evaluate the melanin and intracellular persulphide levels by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). Moreover, the effects of GSSSG on melanin production were studied. The results revealed that α-MSH-induced melanogenesis significantly increased melanin production and decreased intracellular persulphide levels. Furthermore, the expression of persulphide synthesis genes, including Cars2 and Cbs, was significantly downregulated by α-MSH. In contrast, GSSSG significantly suppressed α-MSH-induced melanin production. Notably, GSSSG restored the intracellular persulphide levels reduced by α-MSH and upregulated Cars2 and Cbs expression. These findings suggest that GSSSG exerts anti-melanogenesis effects, maintains intracellular persulphide levels, and improves skin brightness. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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2 pages, 666 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Kim et al. An Adhesive Peptide Derived from Mussel Protein Alleviates LL37-Induced Rosacea Through Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Angiogenic Mechanisms. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 143

by Tae Yoon Kim, Jin Hyeop Kim, Yeon-Jun Lee, Min Ji Song, Ha Hui Park and Ji Hyung Chung

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 233; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050233 - 21 Oct 2025

Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

15 pages, 3084 KB

Open AccessArticle

Selective Regulatory Effects of Lactobacillus Plantarum Fermented Milk: Enhancing the Growth of Staphylococcus Epidermidis and Inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli

by Yajuan Sun, Ying Wang, Zixia Ren, Shasha Wang, Yun Ding, Nan Liu, Cheng Yang and Bingtian Zhao

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 232; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050232 - 17 Oct 2025

Abstract

To address the limitation of traditional broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents in compromising skin microbiota homeostasis, this study developed Lactobacillus plantarum fermented milk (FM) as an innovative strategy for selectively regulating microbial communities to restore skin microbiota balance. FM was produced through protease hydrolysis in [...] Read more.

To address the limitation of traditional broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents in compromising skin microbiota homeostasis, this study developed Lactobacillus plantarum fermented milk (FM) as an innovative strategy for selectively regulating microbial communities to restore skin microbiota balance. FM was produced through protease hydrolysis in combination with L. plantarum fermentation. Selective antibacterial properties were evaluated via monoculture experiments (Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis) and pathogen–commensal co-culture systems. It was found that FM can selectively inhibit pathogens (E. coli and S. aureus) and promote the growth of commensal bacteria (S. epidermidis) in monoculture, and can reduce the growth and competitiveness of E. coli and S. aureus while relatively increasing the colony count of S. epidermidis in the co-culture system. Metabolomic profiling was further performed to identify metabolic alterations induced by FM. It was found that FM can activate the pyruvate metabolic node, significantly enhancing the metabolic fluxes of lactic acid, citric acid, and short-chain fatty acids, which triggered the acid stress response of pathogenic bacteria while consuming a considerable amount of energy, attenuating their reproductive capacity without impacting the growth of commensal bacteria. Overall, FM showed selective antimicrobial activity against pathogens (E. coli, and S. aureus) and preservation of commensal S. epidermidis, offering a foundational reference for the development of postbiotics aimed at maintaining cutaneous microbial homeostasis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)

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32 pages, 3400 KB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Properties of Anti-UV Creams Enriched with Natural Extracts from Avocado, Apple, and Kiwi By-Products, with and Without Nanobubbles

by Olga I. Tsiapali, Nefeli-Ioanna Kontaxi, Konstantinos Pavlidis, Anna Ofrydopoulou, Vasileios Prokopiou, Sophia Letsiou, Ramonna I. Kosheleva, Athanassios Mitropoulos and Alexandros Tsoupras

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 231; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050231 - 16 Oct 2025

Abstract

This study investigates the development and evaluation of anti-photoaging creams enriched with natural extracts from avocado, apple, and kiwi by-products, with and without nanobubbles (NBs), focusing on their antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antiplatelet properties. Extract-containing creams showed significantly higher antioxidant capacity, particularly in [...] Read more.

This study investigates the development and evaluation of anti-photoaging creams enriched with natural extracts from avocado, apple, and kiwi by-products, with and without nanobubbles (NBs), focusing on their antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antiplatelet properties. Extract-containing creams showed significantly higher antioxidant capacity, particularly in the ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay (S: 710.4 ± 344.3, NB: 566.3 ± 185.0, X: 202.8 ± 145.6 μmol TE/g DW at production; S: 631.7 ± 277.8, NB: 1019.3 ± 574.0, X: 449.8 ± 43.9 μmol TE/g DW after 1 month; p < 0.05), indicating up to a 250% improvement compared to the base cream and stable antioxidant activity during storage. The sun protection factor (SPF) increased in extract-containing creams after storage (8.7 ± 0.8 → 9.5 ± 0.6; p < 0.05). Attenuated total reflectance Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) with Strat-M^® membranes revealed enhanced penetration of active compounds in enriched creams, while NBs did not significantly change absorption profiles. Platelet aggregation assays showed markedly lower half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) values in extract-enriched creams compared to the base cream for both the platelet-activating factor (PAF) pathway (S: 300.0 ± 42.0, NB: 258.0 ± 31.0 vs. X: 685.0 ± 35.0; after 1 month S: 325.0 ± 50.0, NB: 275.0 ± 42.0 vs. X: 885.0 ± 112.0; p < 0.05) and the adenosine diphosphate (ADP) pathway (S: 450.0 ± 65.0, NB: 400.0 ± 31.0 vs. X: 880.0 ± 58.0; after 1 month S: 470.0 ± 52.0, NB: 412.0 ± 42.0 vs. X: 1102.0 ± 125.0; p < 0.05). In silico analysis was also performed to demonstrate the ligand/protein complex with the strongest affinity to the PAF receptor. Overall, these findings highlight the potential of fruit by-products as sustainable, multifunctional cosmetic ingredients supporting circular economy principles. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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16 pages, 4794 KB

Open AccessArticle

Stimulation of Cytoglobin Expression and Improvement in ROS-Related Aging Markers in Skin Cells with Tropaeolum majus Extract

by Andrea Cipriano, Fang Qi, Karen Kai-Lin Hwang, Priscila Chiavellini, Wei-Chieh Mu, Elodie Aymard, Philippe Schaeffer, Marion Renault, Tanesha Naiken, Emmanuelle Leblanc, Jamila Dhiab, Brigitte Closs, Karl Pays, Delphine Sauce, David Furman, Vittorio Sebastiano, Knut Woltjen, Carine Nizard and Anne-Laure Bulteau

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 230; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050230 - 16 Oct 2025

Abstract

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and mitochondrial dysfunction play a major role in skin aging. Due to Tropaeolum majus’ suggested protective actions against ROS, a link between T. majus extract and increased cytoglobin (CYGB) expression was evaluated for cultured skin cells. Human dermal [...] Read more.

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and mitochondrial dysfunction play a major role in skin aging. Due to Tropaeolum majus’ suggested protective actions against ROS, a link between T. majus extract and increased cytoglobin (CYGB) expression was evaluated for cultured skin cells. Human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes were treated with 0.5% v/v T. majus extract and the effect of this treatment on the expression of CYGB and on a range of cellular markers of aging were evaluated. In fibroblasts, the treatment with the extract was associated with an increase in CYGB levels. It also decreased ROS concentrations, improved the function of mitochondria, and stimulated the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Moreover, it downregulated a set of genes controlling the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. T. majus extract activates oxygen transport within natural killer cells and thus enhances their activity, suggesting a potential senolytic effect. This extract seemed to exert a protective effect on various aging pathways such as ROS production, mitochondrial dysfunction, and collagen homeostasis, playing a promising role against skin aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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8 pages, 207 KB

Open AccessCommunication

Oculocutaneous Albinism in Northern Madagascar: Clinical Burden, Social Stigma, and Impact of a Community-Based Photoprotection Program

by Rebecca Donadoni, Andrea Michelerio and Valeria Brazzelli

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 229; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050229 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Oculocutaneous albinism (OCA) increases susceptibility to ultraviolet (UV) skin damage, skin cancer risk, and psychosocial burden. Data from Madagascar are lacking. We conducted a six-month pilot study (July–December 2024) in northern Madagascar (DIANA and SAVA regions). Forty-one individuals with OCA were enrolled. Baseline [...] Read more.

Oculocutaneous albinism (OCA) increases susceptibility to ultraviolet (UV) skin damage, skin cancer risk, and psychosocial burden. Data from Madagascar are lacking. We conducted a six-month pilot study (July–December 2024) in northern Madagascar (DIANA and SAVA regions). Forty-one individuals with OCA were enrolled. Baseline socio-demographic, clinical, and behavioral data were collected through interviews and dermatological examinations. A structured program provided education, culturally adapted materials, and photoprotective resources, with monthly follow-up visits. The cohort included 22 males and 19 females, with a mean age of 18 years (range: 1 month–35 years). Actinic keratoses were present in 61% of participants, and invasive skin cancer in 4.9%. All patients had photophobia and nystagmus. Social discrimination was reported by 65.9%, with 12.2% describing severe abuse. Baseline photoprotection was inadequate: 43.9% reported no protective practices, 7.3% used sunscreen, and 19.5% avoided midday sun. Follow-up was completed by 20/41 patients (48.8%). Among completers, paired analysis showed a decrease in sunburn prevalence from 95.0% to 10.0% (p < 0.0001), an increase in regular sunscreen use from 0.0% to 100.0% (p < 0.0001), use of protective clothing from 35.0% to 80.0% (p = 0.0039), and adoption of behavioral strategies from 15.0% to 50.0% (p = 0.0156). This first study on OCA in northern Madagascar demonstrates a high burden of UV-related dermatoses and stigma. A low-cost community intervention significantly improved photoprotection. Wider implementation could reduce morbidity and enhance quality of life in resource-limited settings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 760 KB

Open AccessReview

Genetic Insights into Acne, Androgenetic Alopecia, and Alopecia Areata: Implications for Mechanisms and Precision Dermatology

by Gustavo Torres de Souza

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 228; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050228 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Chronic dermatological conditions such as acne vulgaris, androgenetic alopecia (AGA), and alopecia areata (AA) affect hundreds of millions worldwide and contribute substantially to quality-of-life impairment. Despite the availability of systemic retinoids, anti-androgens, and JAK inhibitors, therapeutic responses remain heterogeneous and relapse is common, [...] Read more.

Chronic dermatological conditions such as acne vulgaris, androgenetic alopecia (AGA), and alopecia areata (AA) affect hundreds of millions worldwide and contribute substantially to quality-of-life impairment. Despite the availability of systemic retinoids, anti-androgens, and JAK inhibitors, therapeutic responses remain heterogeneous and relapse is common, underscoring the need for biologically grounded stratification. Over the past decade, large genome-wide association studies and functional analyses have clarified disease-specific and cross-cutting mechanisms. In AA, multiple independent HLA class II signals and immune-regulatory loci such as BCL2L11 and LRRC32 establish antigen presentation and interferon-γ/JAK–STAT signalling as central drivers, consistent with clinical responses to JAK inhibition. AGA is driven by variation at the androgen receptor and 5-α-reductase genes alongside WNT/TGF-β regulators (WNT10A, LGR4, RSPO2, DKK2), explaining follicular miniaturisation and enabling polygenic risk prediction. Acne genetics highlight an immune–morphogenesis–lipid triad, with loci in TGFB2, WNT10A, LGR6, FASN, and FADS2 linking follicle repair, innate sensing, and sebocyte lipid metabolism. Barrier modulators such as FLG and OVOL1, first described in atopic dermatitis, further shape inflammatory thresholds across acne and related phenotypes. Together, these findings position genetics not as an abstract catalogue of risk alleles but as a map of tractable biological pathways. They provide the substrate for patient-stratified interventions ranging from JAK inhibitors in AA, to endocrine versus morphogenesis-targeted strategies in AGA, to lipid- and barrier-directed therapies in acne, while also informing cosmetic practices focused on barrier repair, sebaceous balance, and follicle health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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39 pages, 3509 KB

Open AccessReview

Fatty Amines in Detergents and Cosmetics: Current State and Biocircular Perspectives

by Maria-Beatrice Coltelli, Annabel Serpico, Rosa Domenech, Mar Tronch, Carolina Galli, Paolo Sonzini, Clara Escrivà-Cerdán, Sergio Mastroianni, Andrea Lazzeri, Domenico Licursi and Anna Maria Raspolli Galletti

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 227; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050227 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Fatty amines are nitrogen-containing organic compounds synthesized from fatty acids, olefins, or alcohols, typically derived from natural oils or petrochemical sources. These molecules generally feature long hydrophobic alkyl chains ranging from C8 to C22 and can be positively charged on the nitrogen atom, [...] Read more.

Fatty amines are nitrogen-containing organic compounds synthesized from fatty acids, olefins, or alcohols, typically derived from natural oils or petrochemical sources. These molecules generally feature long hydrophobic alkyl chains ranging from C8 to C22 and can be positively charged on the nitrogen atom, which confer pronounced cationic surface activity. This property makes them highly effective as emulsifiers, conditioning agents, antistatic agents, and surfactants, particularly in industrial formulations and personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and creams. Historically, the production of fatty amines has relied heavily on petrochemical feedstocks, contributing significantly to greenhouse gas emissions, particularly CO₂. In response to growing environmental concerns, there is an increasing shift toward renewable and sustainable raw materials, aligning with the principles of the circular economy. The cosmetics and detergent industries are at the forefront of this transition, actively integrating bio-based ingredients to minimize ecological impact. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the sources, synthetic pathways, and applications of fatty amines. It highlights their functional roles in detergents and cosmetic formulations and explores scientific and technological strategies aimed at enhancing sustainability across the fatty amine supply chain. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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22 pages, 4274 KB

Open AccessArticle

Enhanced Bioavailability and Stability of Curcumin in Cosmeceuticals: Exploiting Droplet Microfluidics for Nanoemulsion Development

by Nikolaos D. Bikiaris, Afroditi Kapourani, Ioannis Pantazos and Panagiotis Barmpalexis

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 226; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050226 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Curcumin (Cur), a natural polyphenolic compound with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, faces significant challenges in cosmeceutical applications due to its poor aqueous solubility and low bioavailability. Nanotechnology offers a promising approach to overcome these limitations and enhance the functionality of cosmetic formulations. [...] Read more.

Curcumin (Cur), a natural polyphenolic compound with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, faces significant challenges in cosmeceutical applications due to its poor aqueous solubility and low bioavailability. Nanotechnology offers a promising approach to overcome these limitations and enhance the functionality of cosmetic formulations. In this work, Cur-loaded nanoemulsions (NEs) were developed using a droplet microfluidics technique to enhance Cur’s stability, bioavailability, and permeability for advanced cosmeceuticals. Various oils were screened for Cur solubility, with coconut oil demonstrating the highest capacity. Optimal oil-to-water flow ratios were determined to produce monodisperse NEs with controlled droplet sizes. Characterization via dynamic light scattering (DLS) revealed stable NEs with Z-potential values exceeding −30 mV at both room temperature and +4 °C for up to 21 days, indicating strong colloidal stability. Antioxidant activity was evaluated through DPPH assays, while in vitro permeability studies of the drug-loaded NEs after incorporation into suitable hydrogels, using Strat-M^® membranes mimicking human skin, demonstrated significantly enhanced penetration of the encapsulated Cur. In sum, this work highlights the potential of droplet microfluidics as a scalable and precise method for producing high-performance Cur NEs tailored for cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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24 pages, 1358 KB

Open AccessReview

Valorization of Date Seed Waste for Sustainable Dermocosmetic Sunscreens: Phytochemical Insights and Formulation Advances

by Nassima Siroukane, Abdelhakim Kheniche and Lynda Souiki

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 225; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050225 - 15 Oct 2025

Cited by 1

Abstract

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in [...] Read more.

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in vitro, ex vivo, and preclinical studies underscore their potential as bioactive agents in sunscreen formulations, supporting both skin barrier integrity and oxidative stress mitigation, although clinical validation is still required. This review consolidates current knowledge on the phytochemical profile and biological efficacy of date seed derivatives, with emphasis on their integration into advanced delivery systems such as nanocarriers, Pickering emulsions, and cyclodextrin complexes to enhance photostability, skin permeability, and esthetic acceptability. Safety aspects, including allergenicity, phototoxicity, and regulatory gaps, are critically examined alongside environmental and ethical advantages, including biodegradability and vegan suitability. The findings advocate for the inclusion of Phoenix dactylifera L. seed actives in next-generation dermocosmetic sunscreens that align with circular bioeconomy principles, consumer demand for “reef-safe” products, and evolving international regulations. Further clinical validation is encouraged to fully translate these botanically derived agents into effective and ethically sound sun care innovations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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15 pages, 3000 KB

Open AccessArticle

Jellybush Honey Extract: A Solution for Enhanced Wound Healing and Scar Reduction Across Diverse Skin Phototypes

by Julie Leignadier, Marty Shortt, Florence Turgeon, Philippe Daigle and Joan Attia

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 224; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050224 - 14 Oct 2025

Abstract

Wound healing dysregulation often results in visible scarring with significant psychological impact, particularly affecting individuals with darker skin phototypes. This study investigates the efficacy of an aqueous extract of Australian Jellybush honey (Leptospermum polygalifolium) in improving scar appearance across diverse skin [...] Read more.

Wound healing dysregulation often results in visible scarring with significant psychological impact, particularly affecting individuals with darker skin phototypes. This study investigates the efficacy of an aqueous extract of Australian Jellybush honey (Leptospermum polygalifolium) in improving scar appearance across diverse skin tones. Our research demonstrated the extract reduced IL-8 production by 42%, decreased reactive oxygen species by 14.6%, and increased pro-collagen I synthesis by 28%. Ex vivo experiments revealed a 44% increase in neo-epidermal tongue length after 10 days while gene expression analysis showed coordinated wound healing through timed modulation of key markers such as filaggrin, matrix metalloproteases, keratins. In a double-blind clinical study involving 21 volunteers (phototypes II–VI) with acne scars, 8-week application of 2% Jellybush honey extract improved skin homogeneity by 15%, reduced scar surface area by 3% and decreased atrophic and hypertrophic scars dimensions by 9% and 16%, respectively, versus placebo. These improvements were consistent across all phototypes, including V-VI. Jellybush honey extract offers a promising approach for scar management through balanced modulation of wound healing pathways across all skin phototypes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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