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Cosmetics

Cosmetics is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI. 

Quartile Ranking JCR - Q1 (Dermatology)

All Articles (1,349)

Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not been systematically characterized. This study aimed to investigate the effect of increasing walnut leaf extract concentration on the rheological profile, mechanical integrity during application, and sensory performance of oil-in-water creams. Methods: Four emulsion formulations (F1–F4) containing 0%, 1%, 3%, and 5% walnut leaf extract were prepared using Olivem 1000 and Olivem 300 as emulsifiers. Rheological measurements included amplitude sweep, flow curve, frequency sweep, and thixotropy tests to assess viscoelasticity, flow behavior, and recovery. A sensory evaluation was conducted by trained panelists to correlate rheological parameters with perceived product attributes. Results: All formulations exhibited pseudoplastic, shear-thinning behavior in well-structured cosmetic emulsions during application. The addition of walnut extract significantly modified rheological responses: at 1% concentration, an increase in storage modulus (G′) and shear-thinning ratio (η0/η∞) indicated structural reinforcement and improved spreadability, whereas higher concentrations (3–5%) led to structural softening and faster thixotropic recovery. The frequency sweep revealed a concentration-dependent shift from elastic- to viscous-dominant behavior. Sensory analysis confirmed these trends, with higher extract levels reducing stickiness and greasiness while enhancing absorption. Conclusions: Walnut leaf extract shows a concentration-dependent influence on the rheological behavior of the emulsions, strengthening the network structure at low levels while promoting softening and faster structural recovery at higher concentrations. The strong correlation between rheological and sensory parameters underscores the potential of walnut extract as a multifunctional ingredient for designing well-structured, non-greasy, and consumer-preferred cosmetic creams.

26 December 2025

Flow curves (viscosity vs. shear rate) for emulsion creams F1–F4.

Introduction: Artificial intelligence (AI) has developed into an increasingly important tool in dermatology. While new technologies integrated within laser devices are emerging, there is a lack of data on the applicability of publicly available AI models. Methods: The prospective study used an online questionnaire where participants evaluated diagnosis and treatment for 25 dermatological cases shown as pictures. The same questions were given to AI models: ChatGPT-4o, Claude Sonnet 4, Gemini 2.5 Flash, and Grok-3. Results: Dermatologists outperformed AI in diagnostic accuracy (suspected primary diagnosis-SD 75.6%) in pooled dermatologists vs. pooled AI (SD 57.0%), with laser specialists achieving the highest accuracy (SD 82.0%) and residents the lowest (SD 66.0%). There was a high heterogeneity across AI models. Gemini approached dermatologist performance (SD 72.0%), while Claude showed a low accuracy (SD 40.0%). While AI models reached near 100% accuracy in some classic/common diagnoses (e.g., acne, rosacea, spider angioma, infantile hemangioma), their accuracy dropped to near 0% on rare or context-dependent cases (e.g., blue rubber bleb nevus syndrome, angiosarcoma, hirsutism, cutaneous siderosis). Inter-rater agreement was high among laser experts in terms of diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice. Agreement between residents and AI models was highest for diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice, while it was lowest between experts and AI models. Conclusions: Before AI-based tools can be integrated into daily practice, particularly regarding diagnosis and appropriate laser treatment recommendations, specific supervised medical training of the AI model is necessary, as open-source platforms currently lack the ability to contextualize presented data.

26 December 2025

Diagnostic accuracy for each group of evaluators in detail.

Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic differences between individuals with high and low hydration levels. We enrolled 60 healthy Chinese women (aged 30–55), divided into a low-hydration (LH, n = 11) group and a high-hydration (HH, n = 19) group based on Corneometer measurements. An integrated methodology was employed, including confocal Raman spectroscopy, multiphoton laser tomography, biophysical instruments, and untargeted lipidomics. Our results demonstrated a positive correlation between skin hydration and SC thickness, ceramides, and lactate levels. However, no significant correlation was identified in relation to wrinkles, color, or elasticity. The lipidomic analysis revealed eighty-three significantly upregulated lipids (VIP > 1.0, p < 0.05) in LH skin, among which ten lipids, including nine ceramides, exhibited strong negative correlations with hydration (|r| > 0.8, p < 0.05). These lipids were predominantly associated with sphingolipid and triacylglycerol metabolic pathways. Together, our findings suggest that low-hydration skin is characterized by systemic lipidomic dysregulation, rather than a deficiency of individual lipids. These findings represent novel insights into the mechanisms underlying skin hydration and identify potential therapeutic targets for addressing skin dryness and aging.

25 December 2025

Correlations between various facial skin parameters and skin hydration. (a) Heatmap illustrating the correlation matrix of different skin parameters. Data with p &lt; 0.05 are marked with an asterisk (*). On the heat map, red indicates a strong positive correlation, blue represents a strong negative correlation, and white indicates no correlation. (b–e) Scatter plots depicting the correlation between skin hydration and SC thickness (b), SC hydration (c), ceramide content (d), and lactate content (e). EI (erythema index), MI (melanin index), a* (represents red and green shades), b* (represents blue and yellow shades), ITA° (individual typology angle), L* (indicates color brightness), Q0 (maximum recovery area), Q1 (gross elasticity), Q2 (net elasticity), Q3 (biological elasticity), Rz (average maximum roughness), and Ra (arithmetic mean roughness).

Protective and Restorative Effects of a Bio-Based Crosslinking Complex on Chemically Damaged Hair

  • Flavio B. Camargo Junior,
  • Alessandra M. Goshiyama and
  • Gessica F. D. Oliveira
  • + 7 authors

This study addresses the growing consumer demand for effective and sustainable hair care solutions by evaluating a novel bioactive crosslink repair complex designed to restore chemically damaged hair. The complex comprises itaconic acid, arginine, D-panthenol, and polysaccharides from linseed and chia, which work synergistically to promote fiber crosslinking, protein restructuring, and cuticle barrier restoration. The complex was incorporated into two formulations: a bleaching mixture as a protective agent and a leave-in conditioner as a repair treatment for chemically damaged hair. The protective efficacy was assessed through tensile strength measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, combability tests, shine evaluation, and scanning electron microscopy. The repair potential was evaluated using differential scanning calorimetry and tensile strength analysis. Results demonstrated that incorporating the complex into the bleaching mixture significantly enhanced break stress, denaturation enthalpy, shine, and combability, while maintaining improved cuticle alignment. The hair repair evaluation showed that post-treatment application of the complex successfully restored hair tensile strength and denaturation. These findings confirm the dual functionality of Bioactive Crosslink Repair Complex as both a protective and reparative agent, highlighting synergistic mechanisms in preventing and reversing chemical damage to hair fibers. This bioactive approach offers a promising alternative for hair care formulations targeting chemically treated hair.

24 December 2025

Break stress (gf/µm2) of bleached hair fibers with and without BCRC treatment. Data represent mean ± standard deviation (n = 50). * Statistically significant difference compared to the bleached control group (p &lt; 0.05).

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Cosmetics - ISSN 2079-9284