Cosmetics

18 pages, 907 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating Coffee and Rosemary Extracts as Sustainable Alternatives to Synthetic Preservatives

by Luiza Aparecida Luna Silvério, Érica Mendes dos Santos, Josélia Cristina de Oliveira Moreira, Ana Lucia Tasca Gois Ruiz, Karina Cogo-Müller, Janaína Artem Ataide, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 147; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040147 - 11 Jul 2025

Abstract

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural [...] Read more.

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural preservatives for emulsions. Antimicrobial activity was assessed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans, along with cytotoxicity tests on human keratinocytes and antioxidant activity. The most effective extracts were incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion for evaluation. C. arabica extracts showed the best results among coffee samples, with 43.53 mg GAE/g (gallic acid equivalents) and 2.32 mg QE/g of total phenolics (quercetin equivalents) and flavonoids, and minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) of 12.5 mg/mL against Escherichia coli, and 25 mg/mL against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Rosemary extract showed 158.01 ± 23.67 mg GAE/g and 1.95 ± 0.05 mg QE/g, with MICs of 2.5 mg/mL against E. coli, 1.25 mg/mL against P. aeruginosa, 0.3 mg/mL against S. aureus, and 0.08 mg/mL against Candida albicans. However, rosemary extracts displayed complete inhibition of keratinocyte growth at 20 µg/mL. A combination of both extracts had synergistic effects against S. aureus and P. aeruginosa. The emulsion met microbial safety standards in the challenge test for bacteria but not yeast. The results suggest that rosemary extracts enhance the potential of coffee by-product as a preservative system, and as a multifunctional excipient system in cosmetics, offering preservation and antioxidant protection. However, further strategies, such as adding other ingredients or adjusting the formulation pH, are required to ensure yeast inhibition. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2264 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Stability, Bioactivity, and Skin Penetration of Prunus Leaf Extracts in Cream Formulations: A Clinical Study on Skin Irritation

by Lapatrada Mungmai, Eakkaluk Wongwad, Patcharawan Tanamatayarat, Tammanoon Rungsang, Pattavet Vivattanaseth, Nattapol Aunsri and Weeraya Preedalikit

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 146; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040146 - 10 Jul 2025

Abstract

Prunus leaf extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, and they are known for their antioxidant potential. This study compares the bioactivity and stability of leaf extracts from Prunus domestica L. (EL), Prunus salicina Lindl. (JL), and Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. [...] Read more.

Prunus leaf extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, and they are known for their antioxidant potential. This study compares the bioactivity and stability of leaf extracts from Prunus domestica L. (EL), Prunus salicina Lindl. (JL), and Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. (CL) and evaluates the dermal safety of a cream containing the extract with the most favorable in vitro properties for potential cosmetic use. Ethanolic extracts were assessed for total phenolic and condensed tannin contents, as well as antioxidants, using DPPH assay and lipid peroxidation inhibitory activities. The CL extract exhibited moderate total phenolic content, the highest condensed tannin content, and strong antioxidant (IC₅₀ = 22.1 ± 3.1 µg/mL) and anti-lipid peroxidation (62.3 ± 1.0%) activities. Based on these results, CL was incorporated into a cream formulation (CCL), which was then evaluated for physicochemical properties, antioxidant retention, and in vitro skin permeation using Franz diffusion cells. The formulation remained physically stable under ambient conditions and retained antioxidant activity above 74.5% under thermal cycling conditions. Rutin from the CCL formulation was retained within the Strat-M™ membrane (4.0 ± 1.1%), which was 5.7-fold higher than that of the control (0.7 ± 0.6%) over 8 h; however, it was not detected in the receptor chamber under these in vitro conditions. A semi-open patch test conducted on 26 healthy volunteers under double-blind conditions revealed no signs of irritation, confirming the formulation’s dermal safety. Overall, the findings support the feasibility of using P. cerasifera extract as a stable antioxidant component in topical skincare formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 315 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Prediction of Shampoo Formulation Phase Stability Using Large Language Models

by Erwan Bigan and Stéphane Dufour

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 145; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040145 - 10 Jul 2025

Abstract

Predictive formulation can help reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic product. The performance of Large Language Models from the open source Llama family is compared with that of conventional machine learning to predict the phase stability of shampoo [...] Read more.

Predictive formulation can help reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic product. The performance of Large Language Models from the open source Llama family is compared with that of conventional machine learning to predict the phase stability of shampoo formulations using a recently published dataset. The predictive strength is assessed for various train dataset sizes (obtained by stratified sampling of the full dataset) and for various Large Language Model sizes (3, 8, and 70B parameters). The predictive strength is found to increase on increasing the model size, and the Large-Language-Model-based approach outperforms conventional machine learning when the train dataset is small, delivering Area Under the Receiver Operating Curve above 0.7 with as few as 20 train samples. This work illustrates the potential of Large Language Models to further reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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29 pages, 1189 KiB

Open AccessReview

Decoding Skin Aging: A Review of Mechanisms, Markers, and Modern Therapies

by Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez, Stefano Bacci, Maria Luisa Hernandez-Bule, Alfonso Perez-Gonzalez and Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 144; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040144 - 10 Jul 2025

Abstract

Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, [...] Read more.

Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, manifesting as wrinkles, pigmentation disorders, thinning, and reduced elasticity. This review provides an integrative overview of the biological, molecular, and clinical dimensions of skin aging, emphasizing the interplay between inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, and senescence-associated signaling pathways. We examine histopathological hallmarks and molecular markers and discuss the influence of genetic and ethnic variations on aging phenotypes. Current therapeutic strategies are explored, ranging from topical agents (e.g., retinoids, antioxidants, niacinamide) to procedural interventions such as lasers, intense pulsed light, photodynamic therapy, microneedling, and injectable biostimulators. Special attention is given to emerging approaches such as microneedle delivery systems, with mention of exosome-based therapies. The review underscores the importance of personalized anti-aging regimens based on biological age, phototype, and lifestyle factors. As the field advances, integrating mechanistic insights with individualized treatment selection will be key to optimizing skin rejuvenation and preserving long-term dermal health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 2749 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Adhesive Peptide Derived from Mussel Protein Alleviates LL37-Induced Rosacea Through Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Angiogenic Mechanisms

by Tae Yoon Kim, Jin Hyeop Kim, Yeon-Jun Lee, Min Ji Song, Ha Hui Park and Ji Hyung Chung

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 143; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040143 - 4 Jul 2025

Abstract

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage [...] Read more.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage of being relatively safe and exhibiting high target specificity, which can reduce the risk of adverse effects. Considering these points, this study aimed to explore the adhesive peptide AdhPep3 (AYDPGYK) as a potential therapeutic candidate for rosacea. AdhPep3 was designed based on protein sequences with cell junction properties and has the potential to enhance skin barrier-related protein expression by improving cell–cell adhesion and increasing adhesion-related protein levels. In LL-37-stimulated HaCaT cells, AdhPep3 effectively alleviated skin inflammation and inhibited the Toll-like receptor–nuclear factor kappa B (TLR2–NFκB) signaling pathway. Additionally, in LL-37-stimulated human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs), it reduced cell migration and the expression of angiogenesis-related proteins. Since AdhPep3 demonstrated anti-inflammatory and anti-angiogenic effects at the in vitro level, it may serve as a potential therapeutic agent for rosacea. Moreover, by increasing the expression of skin barrier and tight junction-related proteins, AdhPep3 shows potential for development as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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Graphical abstract

24 pages, 886 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Potential of Olive Mill Wastewater: A Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Source of Natural Ingredients

by Adriana Albini, Paola Corradino, Danilo Morelli, Francesca Albini and Douglas Noonan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040142 - 3 Jul 2025

Abstract

Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. [...] Read more.

Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. Key polyphenols such as hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein, and tyrosol exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and photoprotective effects. These compounds mitigate oxidative stress, prevent collagen degradation, modulate NF-κB and MAPK signaling, and promote cellular repair and regeneration. Skin health is increasingly recognized as crucial to overall well-being, driving interest in cosmeceuticals that combine cosmetic benefits with dermatological activity. This review examines the cosmeceutical and dermatological potential of OMWW, highlighting its incorporation into innovative topical formulations like oil-in-water nanoemulsions, liposomes, and microneedles that enhance skin penetration and bioavailability. Additionally, OMWW fractions have shown selective antiproliferative effects on melanoma cells, suggesting potential for skin cancer prevention. Valorization of OMWW through biorefinery processes aligns with circular-economy principles, converting agro-industrial waste into sustainable cosmeceutical ingredients. This approach not only meets consumer demand for natural, effective products, but also reduces the ecological footprint of olive oil production, offering a scalable, eco-friendly strategy for next-generation dermatological applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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22 pages, 1280 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Optimization of a Quercetin-Loaded Chitosan Lactate Nanoparticle Hydrogel with Antioxidant and Antibacterial Properties for Topical Skin Applications

by Raghda Yazidi, Majdi Hammami, Hamza Ghadhoumi, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Sawssen Selmi, Kamel Zayani, Karima Horchani-Naifer, Iness Bettaieb Rebey and Moufida Saidani Tounsi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 141; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040141 - 3 Jul 2025

Abstract

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its [...] Read more.

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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26 pages, 857 KiB

Open AccessReview

Officinal Plants as New Frontiers of Cosmetic Ingredients

by Annabella Vitalone, Lucia D’Andrea, Antonella Di Sotto, Alessandra Caruso and Rita Parente

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 140; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040140 - 3 Jul 2025

Abstract

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores [...] Read more.

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Profile and Efficacy of Biosea^® Revive Serum for Hair Growth Through In Vitro Assessment and Clinical Evaluation

by Chi-Ju Wu, Chun-Yin Yang, Pamela Berilyn So, Hui-Yu Hu, Shang-Hsuan Yang, Hsiang-Ming Hsueh, Tzu-Hui Wu and Feng-Lin Yen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040139 - 1 Jul 2025

Abstract

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl [...] Read more.

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl tripeptide-1 and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract as the main ingredients, as a natural intervention for hair growth. Results from the in vitro study demonstrates that BRS not only increased human hair dermal papilla cell (HHDPC) cell proliferation, but also reduced reactive oxygen species generation and 5α-reductase expression when compared to the control group, with BRS showing similar effect to the positive control, minoxidil. In addition, a 90-day clinical trial with 40 participants (KMUHIRB-F(I)-20230125; approval date: 18 August 2023) was conducted to assess the effectiveness and safety of BRS. The results revealed that BRS can improve hair density and quality in both men and women participants, with a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in women (p < 0.05). Moreover, there were no adverse effects on blood parameters or scalp irritation reported after BRS treatment. In conclusion, we suggest that BRS offers a safe and effective solution for improving hair follicle health and is suitable for long-term use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 2664 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Engineering a Polyacrylamide/Polydopamine Adhesive Hydrogel Patch for Sustained Transdermal Vitamin E Delivery

by Yejin Kim, Juhyeon Kim, Dongmin Yu, Taeho Kim, Jonghyun Park, Juyeon Lee, Sohyeon Yu, Dongseong Seo, Byoungsoo Kim, Simseok A. Yuk, Daekyung Sung and Hyungjun Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040138 - 1 Jul 2025

Abstract

A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel [...] Read more.

A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel using a polyacrylamide (PAM)/polydopamine (PDA) dual-network structure. The matrix combines the mechanical toughness of PAM with the strong adhesive properties of PDA, derived from mussel foot proteins, enabling firm tissue attachment and robust performance under physiological conditions. To demonstrate its applicability, the hydrogel was integrated with poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanoparticles encapsulating the hydrophobic antioxidant vitamin E as a model compound. The resulting PAM/PDA@VitE hydrogel system exhibited improved swelling behavior, high water retention, and prolonged release of α-tocopherol. These results suggest that the PAM/PDA hydrogel platform is a versatile vehicle not only for vitamin E, but also for the transdermal delivery of various cosmetic and therapeutic agents. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")

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18 pages, 1525 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Importance of Cosmetics in Oncological Patients. Survey of Tolerance of Routine Cosmetic Care in Oncological Patients

by María-Elena Fernández-Martín, Jose V. Tarazona, Natalia Hernández-Cano and Ander Mayor Ibarguren

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040137 - 27 Jun 2025

Abstract

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also [...] Read more.

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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21 pages, 2393 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Digital Tools in Action: 3D Printing for Personalized Skincare in the Era of Beauty Tech

by Sara Bom, Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro and Joana Marto

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 136; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040136 - 25 Jun 2025

Abstract

3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to [...] Read more.

3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to the personalization of under-eye 3D-printed skincare patches and assesses consumer acceptability through emotional sensing, providing a comparative analysis against a non-3D-printed market option. The results indicate that increasing the patches’ internal porosity enhances water retention in the stratum corneum (53.0 vs. 45.4% µm). Additionally, patches were personalized to address individual skin needs/conditions (design and bioactive composition) and consumer preferences (color and fragrance). The affective analysis indicated a high level of consumer acceptance for the 3D-printed option, as evidenced by the higher valence (14.5 vs. 1.1 action units) and arousal (4.2 vs. 2.7 peaks/minute) scores. These findings highlight the potential of 3DP for personalized skincare, demonstrating how structural modifications can modulate hydration. Furthermore, the biometric-preference digital approach employed offers unparalleled versatility, enabling rapid customization to meet the unique requirements of different skin types. By embracing this advancement, a new era of personalized skincare emerges, where cutting-edge science powers solutions for enhanced skin health and consumer satisfaction. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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16 pages, 1441 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of a Centella asiatica (CICA)-Derived Extracellular Vesicle Formulation for Anti-Aging Skincare

by Hannah S. Park and Sehyun Shin

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040135 - 25 Jun 2025

Abstract

Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study [...] Read more.

Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study was conducted over a 15-day period, during which the test formulation was topically applied to the skin following a controlled regimen. A 24-h patch test with 30 participants confirmed non-irritation (irritation index: 0.00). In a separate two-week trial (n = 20; mean age 50.7 years), 3D imaging and ultrasound assessed five-dimensional pore improvement (area, density, volume, filling, texture), wrinkle depth reduction in five facial regions, dermal hydration at 0.5, 1.5, and 2.5 mm depths, and skin density. Significant reductions were observed in mean pore area (−17.9%) and pore density (−26.9%), with a 9.0% decrease in surface roughness. Wrinkle depths decreased by 7.8–18.8% across the forehead, glabella, crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and neck. Hydration increased by 7.9% at 0.5 mm, and dermal density improved by 12.7% (p < 0.05). These findings highlight the excellent skin compatibility and multifaceted cosmetic benefits of the formulation containing CICA-derived exosomes and other active ingredients, underscoring its potential as a safe, effective, and innovative anti-aging cosmetic agent. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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25 pages, 3946 KiB

Open AccessReview

Application Possibilities of Sustainable Nanostructured Silica-Based Materials in Cosmetics

by Veronica Latini, Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik and Agata Wawrzyńczak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 134; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040134 - 25 Jun 2025

Abstract

Nanostructured silica-based materials, including mesoporous silica nanoparticles (SiNPs), show a wide range of applications in various areas, such as food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This is mainly due to their unique properties, namely biocompatibility, stability, adjustable pore size, a highly developed specific surface [...] Read more.

Nanostructured silica-based materials, including mesoporous silica nanoparticles (SiNPs), show a wide range of applications in various areas, such as food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This is mainly due to their unique properties, namely biocompatibility, stability, adjustable pore size, a highly developed specific surface area, and simplicity in surface modification. Currently, special emphasis is placed on obtaining nanostructured silica-based materials using so-called green methods, which not only reduce toxic by-products, but also enable the use of raw materials from plants, agricultural and industrial waste, as well as bacteria or fungi. This trend is particularly evident in the cosmetic industry, which is striving to reduce the adverse environmental and social impacts of cosmetic production. Therefore, this article presents a review of the literature from the last ten years, which describes issues related to the possibilities of replacing synthetic silica-based ingredients in cosmetic products with their more environmentally friendly counterparts. Special emphasis has been placed on the application possibilities of sustainable nanostructured silica-based materials and their potential toxicity in topical formulations. The possibilities of obtaining nanostructured silica-based materials through green synthesis and using natural silica precursors have been briefly presented, as well as the options for modifying the surface of these materials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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11 pages, 244 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessment of Systemic Safety of Althaea rosea Flower Extract for Use in Cosmetics: Threshold of Toxicological Concern and History of Safe Consumption Approaches

by Sangwon Gil and Kyung-Min Lim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 133; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040133 - 24 Jun 2025

Abstract

Althaea rosea flower extract (ARFE) is widely used as a food and cosmetic ingredient. However, the systemic safety of ARFE for use in cosmetics has not been confirmed, yet. Here, we adopted the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) and history of safe food [...] Read more.

Althaea rosea flower extract (ARFE) is widely used as a food and cosmetic ingredient. However, the systemic safety of ARFE for use in cosmetics has not been confirmed, yet. Here, we adopted the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) and history of safe food consumption approaches to evaluate the systemic safety of ARFE as a cosmetic ingredient. A systematic literature review identified 48 chemical constituents in ARFE, 92.6% of which are common food components. Through a literature review, 48 chemical constituents of ARFE were identified. To exclude the potential genotoxicity issues, in silico predictions of an in vitro AMES test and additional literature reviews were performed, demonstrating that all the chemical constituents of ARFE have no genotoxicity issues. To evaluate the systemic toxicity of ARFE, a comparison with the dietary intake of ARFE was performed. The daily dietary intake of ARFE through tea products was estimated to be 66.67 mg/kg/day. Since exposure to ARFE through cosmetic use ranges from 0.0045 to 5.380 mg/kg/day, which is far lower than dietary intake, it is unlikely to pose any additional health risk. The TTC approach along with in silico predictions of dermal absorption also revealed that systemic exposure doses (SEDs) of all the chemical constituents are below TTC thresholds, further supporting its systemic safety for use in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

21 pages, 394 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

The Role of African Medicinal Plants in Dermatological Treatments: A Systematic Review of Antimicrobial, Wound-Healing and Melanogenesis Inhibition

by Lubna M. S. Elmahaishi, Farzana Fisher, Ahmed Hussein and Charlene W. J. Africa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 132; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040132 - 24 Jun 2025

Abstract

Background: Medicinal plants are widely used across the globe as complementary and alternative therapies for managing various health conditions. The use of medicinal plants is a fundamental component of the African traditional healthcare system and most diverse therapeutic practices. Africa harbors a variety [...] Read more.

Background: Medicinal plants are widely used across the globe as complementary and alternative therapies for managing various health conditions. The use of medicinal plants is a fundamental component of the African traditional healthcare system and most diverse therapeutic practices. Africa harbors a variety of plant species, many of which are estimated to be endemic, making it a rich source of medicinal plants with potential relevance to human health. Aim of the study: The study aimed to review and highlight the information in the literature related to the antimicrobial activity, wound-healing activity, and melanogenesis inhibition of African medicinal plants. Methods: Following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA 2020) guidelines, a literature search was conducted on ScienceDirect, Google Scholar, Medline Ebscohost, and PubMed, which were searched for articles published between 2018 and 2024. Due to high heterogeneity and variability in study designs, data were synthesized using a narrative approach. Result: A total of 37 studies were included. Emilia coccinea, Entada africana, Trichilia dregeana, Physalis angulata, and Prunus africana demonstrated strong wound-healing activity (100%) at concentrations between 5 and 10%. For melanogenesis inhibition, Ormocarpum trichocarpum (IC₅₀ = 2.95 µg/mL), Limonium cercinense (IC₅₀ = 3 µg/mL), and L. boitardii (IC₅₀ = 5 µg/mL) showed the most potent effects. The strongest antimicrobial effects were reported for Harpagophytum procumbens (MIC = 10 µg/mL) against Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis and Pistacia atlantica (MIC = 78.1 µg/mL) against Listeria monocytogenes and Candida albicans (MIC = 39 µg/mL). Conclusions: This study highlights the broad therapeutic potential of African medicinal plant extracts in addressing various health conditions, including skin infections, wound management, and skin pigmentation. While several extracts demonstrated strong bioactivity, inconsistent reporting of statistical data limited quantitative synthesis. Future studies should adopt standardized methodologies and report complete statistical outcomes to enable robust meta-analyses and support clinical translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 5002 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Plant-Based Rejuvenating Compositions: Human Study on Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica Saponins for Skin Health

by Leong-Perng Chan and Chia-Hua Liang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 131; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040131 - 20 Jun 2025

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a proprietary plant-based formulation of Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica saponins (ACS) on skin health, as both a cosmetic ingredient and a functional supplement. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 150 healthy adults were assigned [...] Read more.

This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a proprietary plant-based formulation of Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica saponins (ACS) on skin health, as both a cosmetic ingredient and a functional supplement. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 150 healthy adults were assigned to groups using topical ACS cream, oral ACS capsules, combined treatments, or corresponding placebos. Skin brightness, moisture, elasticity, melanin value, pore count, texture, and collagen content were assessed over 4 to 12 weeks. After 4 weeks of topical ACS application, skin brightness improved by 2.5%, elasticity by 6.5%, melanin decreased by 5.2%, pores reduced by 10.6%, and collagen increased by 8.7% (p < 0.05). After 12 weeks of oral ACS, brightness, elasticity, texture, and collagen significantly improved (p < 0.05). The combined treatment group showed the greatest improvements, including a 4.2% increase in brightness, 12.9% increase in moisture, 9.0% elasticity increase, and a 28.5% reduction in pore count (p < 0.05). ACS, whether used topically, orally, or in combination, effectively enhances skin health and offers a natural solution for skin rejuvenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2941 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Oxidative-Inflammatory Modulation of Skin Lipid Metabolism by Squalane, Oleic Acid, and Linoleic Acid

by Wen-Rong Zhang, Qi-Rong Zhang, Zi-Yan Zhou, Yi-Fan Zhang, Xue-Wan Li, Hai-Yang Shen, Li-Feng Tang and Qi Xiang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 130; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040130 - 20 Jun 2025

Abstract

Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present [...] Read more.

Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present differences in UV stress. In this study, we compared their effects on UV-induced oxidative damage, inflammation, and lipid metabolism using a mouse model and human sebaceous gland cells (SZ95). Results showed that 10% SQ did not worsen oxidative damage or inflammation after 6 weeks of UV exposure. In contrast, the 5% and 10% OA/LA groups showed increased skin wrinkling (p < 0.01), epidermal thickening (p < 0.05), and sebaceous gland atrophy. Transcriptome analysis indicated OA/LA upregulated arachidonic acid-related cytokine pathways (PTGS2/IL-1β; p < 0.001). In SZ95 cells, 0.006% OA/LA significantly increased lipid droplet formation (p < 0.001), free fatty acid (FFA) levels (p < 0.001), and pro-inflammatory gene expression (p < 0.001). Conversely, SQ neither promoted lipid droplet/FFA secretion nor induced oxidative stress. These findings suggest that high concentrations of unsaturated fatty acids in skincare may worsen lipid dysregulation and inflammation, while formulations based on saturated hydrocarbons like SQ could provide superior photoaging management by stabilizing skin barrier function. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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19 pages, 946 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

Skin Aging and Type I Collagen: A Systematic Review of Interventions with Potential Collagen-Related Effects

by Ofek Bar and Skaidra Valiukevičienė

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040129 - 20 Jun 2025

Abstract

Aging leads to a decline in skin function due to intrinsic factors (genetics, hormones) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollutants). Type I collagen plays a vital role in maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. As aging progresses, collagen synthesis diminishes, resulting in weakened skin [...] Read more.

Aging leads to a decline in skin function due to intrinsic factors (genetics, hormones) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollutants). Type I collagen plays a vital role in maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. As aging progresses, collagen synthesis diminishes, resulting in weakened skin structure and wrinkle formation. This systematic review explores the role of type I collagen in skin aging by summarizing key clinical findings. A systematic search was conducted using PubMed and ScienceDirect as the primary databases, including studies published between 2014 and 2025 that addressed type I collagen and skin aging. Eleven clinical studies were selected following PRISMA guidelines. The results consistently show the decline of type I collagen as a central contributor to dermal thinning, loss of elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles and sagging. Clinical trials demonstrate that collagen supplementation, particularly from hydrolyzed fish cartilage and low-molecular-weight peptides, enhances collagen production, improves skin hydration and texture, and reduces signs of photoaging. Overall, the evidence emphasizes the critical role of type I collagen in skin aging and suggests that targeted collagen supplementation may serve as an effective strategy to maintain skin structure and combat visible signs of aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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