Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery) / CiteScore - Q1 (Dermatology)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 18 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 6.6 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the second half of 2023).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.3 (2022)
Latest Articles
Anti-Aging Properties of Cannabis sativa Leaf Extract against UVA Irradiation
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 45; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020045 - 18 Mar 2024
Abstract
Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its
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Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its anti-photoaging ability. HPLC analysis revealed that the CLES contained 1.64 ± 0.01% w/w of cannabidiol and 0.11% w/w of ∆9-tetrahydrocannabinol. Additionally, the total phenolic content was found to be 4.08 ± 0.30 mg gallic acid equivalent per g of solution using the Folin–Ciocalteu method. The CLES exhibited potent scavenging activity using a DPPH assay, with an EC50 value of 277.9 ± 2.41 μg/mL, comparable to L-ascorbic acid, with 2.19 ± 0.28 μg/mL. The anti-photoaging potential of the CLES was evaluated using UVA-irradiated and in vitro-aged fibroblasts as a model. Pre-treatment with 20 μg/mL CLES for 24 h significantly alleviated the reduction in type I procollagen and suppressed the overproduction of MMP-1 and IL-6 induced by UVA. Moreover, the percentage of senescence-associated β-galactosidase-expressing cells decreased significantly to 11.9 ± 0.5% in the aged cells treated with CLES compared with untreated cells (18.8 ± 3.8%). These results strongly indicate the cosmeceutical potential of the CLES as an effective active agent for the anti-photoaging prevention and/or treatment.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Topical Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptor Agonist Induces Molecular Alterations Enhancing Barrier Function and Water-Holding Capacity of the Human Stratum Corneum In Vivo
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Maxim E. Darvin, Andrew Salazar, Johannes Schleusener, Jürgen Lademann and Jörg von Hagen
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 44; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020044 - 14 Mar 2024
Abstract
The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and
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The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). By comparing verum and placebo groups post-treatment, we demonstrate (via lipidomic analysis of tape strips) an unstatistically significant trend toward an increase in long-chain triacylglycerols (C50–C56) and medium- and long-chain ceramides (C42–C50) at the superficial SC. By comparing treated and untreated skin using confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we found that the changes in lipid composition in the verum group led to a significant increase in the number of trans conformers and orthorhombic organisation of lipids at the exemplary SC depth. An increase in unfolded states in the secondary and tertiary keratin structures results in an increased ability to bind water. The concentrations of tightly and strongly bound water increase, while weakly bound and unbound water decrease in the entire SC, indicating a transformation of water mobility to a state of increased hydrogen bonding. Thus, the topical PPAR ligands improve the water-holding capacity and the barrier function of the SC.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods)
Open AccessCommunication
Inhibitory Effect of 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on Tyrosinase Activity and Melanin Production
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Hisae Aoshima, Ruka Mizuno, Yuho Iwatsu, Shiori Onishi, Sayuri Hyodo, Rinta Ibuki, Hirokazu Kawagishi and Yasukazu Saitoh
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 43; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020043 - 13 Mar 2024
Abstract
A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis
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A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis of L* values. In the present study, to elucidate the mechanism underlying the increase in skin lightness, we aimed to investigate the effect of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on murine melanoma cell lines, focusing on its influence on tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Our findings revealed that the addition of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine inhibited tyrosinase activity by 13% compared with the untreated control. Similarly, melanin production was suppressed by 36% compared with the control. These results strongly suggest that the inhibition of tyrosinase effectively suppressed melanin production. Thus, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine acts by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production to promote skin lightening. This study provides novel insights into the skin-lightening mechanism of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, demonstrating its ability to inhibit melanin production through the suppression of pro-inflammatory factors, thereby highlighting its potential as an effective cosmetic ingredient for lightening skin tone.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
What Are the Factors That Enable Thread Lifting to Last Longer?
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Gi-Woong Hong, Hyewon Hu, Soo-Yeon Park, Jovian Wan and Kyu-Ho Yi
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020042 - 12 Mar 2024
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Thread-lifting traditionally addressed aging-related skin laxity by leveraging precise thread placement and traction. However, recent advancements, notably cog threads, expanded its application to younger patients seeking facial contour refinement. These newer threads effectively lift sagging areas and refine facial contours, broadening the procedure’s
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Thread-lifting traditionally addressed aging-related skin laxity by leveraging precise thread placement and traction. However, recent advancements, notably cog threads, expanded its application to younger patients seeking facial contour refinement. These newer threads effectively lift sagging areas and refine facial contours, broadening the procedure’s appeal. Challenges arise in selecting threads due to variable physician preferences and patient needs. Clear indications for thread efficacy are vital for credibility and tailored selection. Thread choice depends on tissue laxity, necessitating lighter threads for minimal laxity and stronger ones for significant sagging. However, no single thread universally suits all cases. Combining different threads is favored for optimal outcomes and minimizing side effects. Excessive traction post-procedure may lead to prolonged discomfort and skin irregularities. Post-procedural tension adjustments through massage remain debated, potentially conflicting with minimally invasive principles. Understanding thread characteristics guides tailored selection, considering patient conditions and procedural goals. This comprehensive understanding extends beyond specific products, aiming for optimal outcomes in thread-lifting procedures. Key factors influencing outcomes encompass thread materials, thickness, cog shapes, insertion depth, lifting vectors, and absorbable thread expiration dates.
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Open AccessArticle
Olive Leaves and Citrus Peels: From Waste to Potential Resource for Cosmetic Products
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Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonia Mancuso, Rosario Mare, Antonio Silletta, Samantha Maurotti, Ortensia Ilaria Parisi, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 41; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020041 - 08 Mar 2024
Abstract
Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf
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Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Formulation and Characterization of Niacinamide and Collagen Emulsion and Its Investigation as a Potential Cosmeceutical Product
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Elena Dănilă, Durmuș Alpaslan Kaya, Valentina Anuța, Lăcrămioara Popa, Alina Elena Coman, Ciprian Chelaru, Rodica Roxana Constantinescu, Cristina Dinu-Pîrvu, Mădălina Georgiana Albu Kaya and Mihaela Violeta Ghica
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 40; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020040 - 08 Mar 2024
Abstract
Cosmeceuticals are one of the fast-growing areas of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with medicinal or drug-like benefits that can affect the biological functioning of the skin depending on the ingredients in the composition. The development of one formulation
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Cosmeceuticals are one of the fast-growing areas of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with medicinal or drug-like benefits that can affect the biological functioning of the skin depending on the ingredients in the composition. The development of one formulation acting on the dermis and stimulating the collagen production is very important for the hydration of the skin. The association of collagen with other ingredients can have a positive effect on increasing the natural production of collagen in the skin. An example of such an ingredient is niacinamide, which, having a recognized nutritional value, has been quite recently studied. Considering these aspects, this study focused on developing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, based on natural ingredients (vegetable oils, floral waters, and essential oils) and hydrolyzed collagen and niacinamide as active ingredients, and on evaluating the stability, pH, optical, superficial, rheological and textural properties, as well as microbiological tests of the emulsions, in order to investigate their potential as a cosmeceutical product. All the obtained emulsions proved to be stable at variable temperatures and had a pH value compatible with natural pH of the skin, allowing their safe application. Over goniometric analysis, a partial wetting and a hydrophilic character of the emulsions were emphasized. Following the rheological analyses, all dermatocosmetic emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and a thixotropic character, these properties being very important for their production process and their application on the skin surface to generate an optimal therapeutic effect. The textural characteristics recorded for all emulsions indicated adequate spreadability at the application site. All tested samples respected the Pharmacopoeia limits of microbiological contamination. All prepared emulsions have good stability, are safe for the skin and have appropriate physicochemical and microbiological characteristics; therefore, they can be used as a cosmeceutical product.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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A Hylocereus undatus Extract Enhances Skin Microbiota Balance and Delivers In-Vivo Improvements in Skin Health and Beauty
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Fabien Havas, Shlomo Krispin, Moshe Cohen and Joan Attia-Vigneau
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 39; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020039 - 07 Mar 2024
Abstract
Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations
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Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Patchouli Alcohol: A Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitor Derived from Patchouli Essential Oil with Potential in the Development of a Skin-Lightening Agent
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K. J. Senthil Kumar, M. Gokila Vani, Muthusamy Chinnasamy, Wan-Teng Lin and Sheng-Yang Wang
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 38; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020038 - 05 Mar 2024
Abstract
The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin
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The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis, cellular tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase (TYR) protein expression. However, the transcriptional levels of TYR and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1 and TRP-2) remained unaffected. These results suggest that PEO and PA may directly interrupt tyrosinase enzyme activity, leading to a reduction in melanin biosynthesis. Further experiments supported this notion, revealing that both PEO and PA significantly and dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity in both the monophenolase and diphenolase phases. Additionally, an in silico molecular docking analysis was performed, utilizing a homology model of human tyrosinase. In conclusion, these findings strongly suggest that patchouli essential oil and its primary bioactive component, patchouli alcohol, hold promise as potential treatments for hyperpigmentary skin conditions and in the development of cosmetic products designed to lighten the skin.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Aromatic and Medicinal Plants as Source of Bioactive Natural Compounds with Cosmetic Applications—Volume 2)
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Open AccessReview
Promising Functions of Novel Vitamin D Derivatives as Cosmetics: A New Fountain of Youth in Skin Aging and Skin Protection
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Zorica Janjetovic and Andrzej T. Slominski
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 37; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020037 - 01 Mar 2024
Abstract
Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including skin. Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis. In keratinocytes, they inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation, have
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Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including skin. Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis. In keratinocytes, they inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation, have anti-inflammatory properties, act as antioxidants, inhibit DNA damage and stimulate DNA repair after ultraviolet (UV) exposure. In melanocytes, they also inhibit cell proliferation, inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants. In fibroblasts, they inhibit cell proliferation, affect fibrotic processes and collagen production, and promote wound healing and regeneration. On the other hand, skin cells have the ability to activate vitamin D directly. These activities, along with the projected topical application of vitamin D derivatives, are promising for skin care and photo protection and can be used in the prevention or possible reversal of skin aging.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)
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In and out Beauty and Sensitive Skin, a Psychophysiological Exploration: Myth or Reality?
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Leila Falcao, Rachida Nachat-Kappes and Edith Filaire
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 36; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020036 - 01 Mar 2024
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Knowing that biomolecules, such as β-amyrin and α-amyrin, have some pharmacological effects, the aim of this study was directed towards exploring the protective effect of Tomato Peel and Seed Extract (TPSE) for its soothing function but also for its capacity to modulate the
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Knowing that biomolecules, such as β-amyrin and α-amyrin, have some pharmacological effects, the aim of this study was directed towards exploring the protective effect of Tomato Peel and Seed Extract (TPSE) for its soothing function but also for its capacity to modulate the adrenal axis, which is involved in stress response. Ex vivo tests were carried out on skin explants to evaluate the effectiveness of TPSE formulated at 0.5% on Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP) and IL-10 release, Kappa Opioid Receptor (KOR), and Caspase 14 expression. An in vivo study combined a clinical evaluation of skin homogeneity and psychological parameters as well as an analysis of salivary cortisol and dehydroepiandrosterone concentrations. All measurements were carried out at the beginning and after 28 days of applying a TPSE face cream. TPSE regulated not only the release of CGRP, IL-10, and the expression of Caspase 14, reflecting anti-neurogenic and anti-inflammatory properties, but also modulated KORs. Twenty-eight days of TPSE application induced a significant decrease in intensity and extent erythrosis, a lower output of salivary cortisol, and a significant increase in pleasant emotions when compared to placebo. These results provide encouragement to continue exploring the impact of cosmetic ingredients on psychophysiological parameters to improve skin health and well-being.
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Open AccessArticle
Evaluation of Teneligliptin and Retagliptin on the Clearance of Melanosome by Melanophagy in B16F1 Cells
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Seong Hyun Kim, Ji-Eun Bae, Na Yeon Park, Joon Bum Kim, Yong Hwan Kim, So Hyun Kim, Gyeong Seok Oh, Hee Won Wang, Jeong Ho Chang and Dong-Hyung Cho
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 35; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020035 - 01 Mar 2024
Abstract
A specialized membrane-bound organelle, named the melanosome, is central to the storage and transport of melanin as well as melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Although previous studies have linked melanosomal degradation to autophagy, the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Autophagy, a complex catabolic process involving
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A specialized membrane-bound organelle, named the melanosome, is central to the storage and transport of melanin as well as melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Although previous studies have linked melanosomal degradation to autophagy, the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Autophagy, a complex catabolic process involving autophagosomes and lysosomes, plays a vital role in cellular constituent degradation. In this study, the role of autophagy in melanosomal degradation was explored, employing a cell-based screening system designed to unveil key pathway regulators. We identified specific dipeptidyl peptidase-4 inhibitors, such as teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate, as novel agents inducing melanophagy through a comprehensive screening of a ubiquitination-related chemical library. We found that treatment with teneligliptin hydrobromide or retagliptin phosphate not only diminishes melanin content elevated by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) but also triggers autophagy activation within B16F1 cells. In addition, the targeted inhibition of unc-51-like kinase (ULK1) significantly attenuated both the anti-pigmentation effects and autophagy induced by teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate in α-MSH-treated cells. Collectively, our data demonstrate a new frontier in understanding melanosomal degradation, identifying teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate as promising inducers of melanophagy via autophagy activation. This study contributes essential insights into cellular degradation mechanisms and offers potential therapeutic avenues in the regulation of pigmentation.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2023)
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Open AccessArticle
Reducing the Environmental Impacts of Plastic Cosmetic Packaging: A Multi-Attribute Life Cycle Assessment
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Nicole Vassallo and Paul Refalo
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 34; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020034 - 28 Feb 2024
Abstract
The global packaging industry has been growing significantly, resulting in an increase in waste and emissions. Social responsibilities, regulations and targets are shifting companies’ priorities to various sustainable practices. This study comprised a life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify and compare key initiatives
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The global packaging industry has been growing significantly, resulting in an increase in waste and emissions. Social responsibilities, regulations and targets are shifting companies’ priorities to various sustainable practices. This study comprised a life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify and compare key initiatives influencing the sustainability of plastic cosmetic packaging. The life cycle environmental effects of dematerialisation, recycled content, energy-saving initiatives and renewable energy powering the manufacturing processes, and the end-of-life (EoL) recycling rates of various scenarios, were evaluated. Moreover, a variety of fossil-based and bio-based polymers, such as acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), wood–polymer composite (WPC) and polylactic acid (PLA), were considered. The study determined that dematerialisation and recycled content had the most beneficial impacts on packaging sustainability. When 100% recycled materials were used, an overall impact reduction of 42–60% was noted for all the materials considered. Using 100% renewable energy and applying measures to reduce the energy consumption in the manufacturing stage by 50% reduced the total impact by approximately 9–17% and 7–13%, respectively. Furthermore, it was concluded that PP had the lowest environmental impacts in the majority of the case scenarios considered, by an average of 46%.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Practices in the Life Cycle of Cosmetic Products)
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Open AccessArticle
Interaction of Perfumes with Cytochrome P-450 19
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Iva Drejslarová, Tomáš Ječmen and Petr Hodek
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 33; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020033 - 23 Feb 2024
Abstract
Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and
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Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic products, which can disrupt the endocrine system by interfering with steroidogenic CYPs. CYP19, also known as aromatase, is a crucial enzyme for testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol, which is the final step in estrogen biosynthesis. Endocrine disruptors have the potential to inhibit CYP19 activity, leading to an imbalance in estrogen levels in the body. This imbalance can impair reproduction and cause osteoporosis, atherosclerosis, dementia, and some types of cancer. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of commercially available perfumes on testosterone aromatization to 17β-estradiol. For this purpose, we used high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV detection and HPLC coupled with mass spectrometry (MS) to examine CYP19 activity with and without perfume. The results showed that all perfumes tested (in a 300-fold dilution) had an inhibitory effect on this enzyme-catalyzed reaction, particularly the Montale® fragrance, ‘Intense Roses Musk’, which decreased 17β-estradiol production by 88% in comparison with the control. Upon exposure to UV light, the inhibitory effect of this perfume did not decrease. But exposure to UV light significantly increased the inhibitory capacity of another perfume with a weak baseline inhibitory effect. To ascertain whether this inhibition was caused by CYP19 interactions with perfumes, we measured the catalytic activity of NADPH:cytochrome P450 oxidoreductase (CYPOR), the CYP reaction partner, with one selected perfume, ‘Intense Roses Musk’ by Montale®, and found no significant CYPOR inhibition. Accordingly, the decrease in testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol caused by this perfume derives solely from CYP19. Combined, our findings highlight the importance of testing perfumes rather than single ingredients to determine their potential for adverse effects and to ensure consumer safety because their mixtures can interfere with a key enzyme of estrogen biosynthesis.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
A Platform for Determining Medicinal Plants with Targeted 17β-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenase Modulation for Possible Hair Loss Prevention
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Suhyeon Park, Neha Kaushik, Geunjeong Lee, Youngju Sohn, Hyehyun Hong, Krishna K. Shrestha, Ren-Bo An, Young Kum Park, Ihseop Chang and June-Hyun Kim
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 32; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020032 - 21 Feb 2024
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Although hair loss plays a vital physiological function in present society, their impact on shaping self-esteem is undeniable. Even though there are numerous synthetic drugs available, these days, there are issues with safety, efficiency, and unclear time settings for required outcomes with the
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Although hair loss plays a vital physiological function in present society, their impact on shaping self-esteem is undeniable. Even though there are numerous synthetic drugs available, these days, there are issues with safety, efficiency, and unclear time settings for required outcomes with the current synthetic drug remedies available; therefore, there is growing attention to discovering alternative methods to fight hair loss, primarily through plant-derived formulations. While earlier reports mostly focused on screening compounds or plant extracts affecting 5α-reductase, our research takes a unique direction. We employed a biochemical and molecular biological approach by delving into the complicated biosynthetic pathways involving 17β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (17β-HSD) and 3β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (3β-HSD) in producing testosterone derived from cholesterol. This process conceded requiring experimental results, posing insights into the control of the testosterone/dihydrotestosterone (DHT) production pathway. Our study confirms a discovery platform for finding potential candidates as hair loss inhibitors, highlighting exploring various biochemical mechanisms involving 17β-HSD and 3β-HSD in combination with medicinal plant extracts.
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Open AccessCorrection
Correction: Ferruggia et al. Effectiveness of a Novel Compound HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX on Hair Follicle Regeneration. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 10
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Greta Ferruggia, Martina Contino, Massimo Zimbone and Maria Violetta Brundo
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 31; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020031 - 21 Feb 2024
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Open AccessArticle
Silymarin Alleviates Oxidative Stress and Inflammation Induced by UV and Air Pollution in Human Epidermis and Activates β-Endorphin Release through Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2
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Cloé Boira, Emilie Chapuis, Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 30; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010030 - 13 Feb 2024
Abstract
Background: Skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and air pollution, and recent works have demonstrated that these factors have additive effects in the disturbance of skin homeostasis. Nuclear-factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) appear to be appropriate targets in
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Background: Skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and air pollution, and recent works have demonstrated that these factors have additive effects in the disturbance of skin homeostasis. Nuclear-factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) appear to be appropriate targets in the management of combined environmental stressors. The protective effects of silymarin (SM), an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory complex of flavonoids, were evaluated. Methods: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and interleukin 1-alpha (IL-1a) were quantified in UV+urban-dust-stressed reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) treated with SM. A gene expression study was conducted on targets related to AHR and Nrf2. SM agonistic activity on cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2R) was evaluated on mast cells. The clinical study quantified the performance of SM and cannabidiol (CBD) in skin exposed to solar radiation and air pollution. Results: SM decreased morphological alterations, ROS, and IL-1a in UV+urban-dust-stressed RHE. AHR- and Nrf2-related genes were upregulated, which control the antioxidant effector and barrier function. Interleukin 8 gene expression was decreased. The clinical study confirmed SM improved the homogeneity and perceived well-being of urban skins exposed to UV, outperforming CBD. SM activated CB2R and the release of β-endorphin from mast cells. Conclusions: SM provides protection of skin from oxidative stress and inflammation caused by two major factors of exposome and appears mediated by AHR-Nrf2. SM activation of CB2R is opening a new understanding of SM’s anti-inflammatory properties.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)
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Open AccessArticle
Nanoemulsions Containing Mucuna pruriens (L.) DC. Seed Extract for Cosmetic Applications
by
Suwaporn Chookiat, Tinnakorn Theansungnoen, Kanokwan Kiattisin and Aekkhaluck Intharuksa
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 29; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010029 - 12 Feb 2024
Abstract
Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts
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Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts of M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis. In addition, the best extract was selected for the development of nanoemulsions. M. pruriens var. utilis had the highest total phenolic and total flavonoid contents. It had good antioxidant activity (the IC50 of DPPH was 4.87 µg/mL, the FRAP value was 1.63 mg of FeSO4/mg of extract, and the percentage of lipid peroxidation was 80.19%) and anti-aging activity (the percentages of inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were 26.41%, 51.16%, and 22.78%, respectively). The occlusive factor was 46.12 ± 1.72. Therefore, M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract was selected for the preparation of nanoemulsions. The results showed that the size, PDI, and zeta potential of nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract at day 30 did not significantly differ from those at day 0. In addition, the %EE was 63.46%. A study of skin permeation showed that the retention in the membrane after six hours of skin permeation study was 44.19%. Therefore, nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract have good potential for further use in cosmetic applications.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)
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Open AccessCase Report
Using 3D Imaging to Preoperatively Plan Facelift Procedures for the Lower Third of the Face and Neck
by
Anastasiya S. Borisenko, Valentin I. Sharobaro, Alexey E. Avdeev, Nigora S. Burkhonova and Anastasiya O. Fisun
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 28; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010028 - 11 Feb 2024
Abstract
The pursuit of youth and attractiveness is a fundamental desire in contemporary society. For many individuals, the appearance of visible signs of aging, such as skin laxity, gravitational changes in facial and neck soft tissues, and loss of harmonious proportions, can be psychologically
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The pursuit of youth and attractiveness is a fundamental desire in contemporary society. For many individuals, the appearance of visible signs of aging, such as skin laxity, gravitational changes in facial and neck soft tissues, and loss of harmonious proportions, can be psychologically distressing. The choice of effective methods for addressing these changes depends on their specific characteristics, the patient’s anatomical features, and the type of facial aging. The introduction of 3D imaging to determine the hyoid bone level, the volume of soft tissue structures in the cervico-mental area, ptosis of subplatysmal structures, and the volume of submandibular glands, in addition to ultrasound study of the submental projection at the preoperative stage, are key for making the best decisions regarding preoperative planning. This case report aims to illustrate how modern imaging techniques are a fundamental part of the preoperative assessment of the mid and lower third of the face to ensure the most favorable aesthetic outcomes for each patient.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)
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Open AccessArticle
Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Potential of Brassica oleracea Accelerates Third-Degree Burn Healing in Rats
by
Lyvia Lopes Miranda, Mariáurea Matias Sarandy, Luciana Schulthais Altoé, Daniel Silva Sena Bastos, Fabiana Cristina Silveira Alves Melo, Rômulo Dias Novaes, Debora Araújo Esposito and Reggiani Vilela Gonçalves
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 27; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010027 - 09 Feb 2024
Abstract
Burns account for more than 265,000 deaths per year in the world, mainly associated with infections. Therefore, the shorter the healing time, the better the prognosis. Based on this, the objective of the present study was to investigate the effect of an ointment
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Burns account for more than 265,000 deaths per year in the world, mainly associated with infections. Therefore, the shorter the healing time, the better the prognosis. Based on this, the objective of the present study was to investigate the effect of an ointment based on Brassica oleracea var. capitata extract in the third-degree healing process. Twenty-five male Wistar rats (335 ± 16 g, three months of life) were individualized in cages with food and water ad libitum. After anesthesia, two circular third-degree burn wounds (12 mm in diameter) were made on the animals, which were randomly separated into five treatments (n = 5/group), i.e., SAL: saline solution 0.9%; OV: ointment vehicle; SS: silver sulfadiazine 1%; PB1: 10% B. oleracea extract; and PB2: 20% B. oleracea extract. The animals were treated with the ointment daily for eight days. Every four days, the area and the wound contraction index were evaluated. Tissue samples were taken for histopathological analysis (cellularity, blood vessels, and extracellular matrix components) and analysis of oxidative/nitrosative status (antioxidant enzymes, lipid, and protein oxidation markers, as well as nitric oxide (NO) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)). The ointment based on B. oleracea var. capitata at 10 and 20% concentrations increased the number of cells, blood vessels, and fibrous components of the extracellular matrix and the activity of antioxidant enzymes, promoting a fast and efficient cutaneous repair in third-degree burn wounds.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)
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Open AccessArticle
Skin Anti-Aging Efficacy of a Lactobacillus plantarum GT-17F Fermented Dendrobium officinale Ingredient: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study
by
Weicheng Fei, Masafumi Noda, Narandalai Danshiitsoodol and Masanori Sugiyama
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 26; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010026 - 07 Feb 2024
Abstract
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We previously found that fermented extract of Dendrobium officinale using Lactobacillus plantarum GT-17F has a stronger antioxidant effect, especially in free radical scavenging. The result provided a basis for further studies to evaluate the effectiveness of fermented D. officinale in preventing UV-mediated damage
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We previously found that fermented extract of Dendrobium officinale using Lactobacillus plantarum GT-17F has a stronger antioxidant effect, especially in free radical scavenging. The result provided a basis for further studies to evaluate the effectiveness of fermented D. officinale in preventing UV-mediated damage and photoaging in humans. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to assess the anti-aging efficacy of D. officinale fermented with GT-17F strain in a clinical trial, which was conducted as a double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized parallel-group comparative study with 99 volunteers with visible wrinkles. During the study, subjects were instructed to apply one pump of each essence, which contains fermented, unfermented, or no D. officinale extract, evenly to their face, both in the morning and evening, following their cleansing routine. At 28 days post-treatment, compared to baseline, subjects in the fermented extract group demonstrated significant improvements in stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, skin glossiness, wrinkle area and ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio. In contrast, the unfermented extract group showed a significant difference only in improving erythema index levels in the skin. This comprehensive study has rigorously investigated the anti-aging effects of D. officinale and its fermented version on human skin, highlighting a notable contribution to dermatological research.
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