Cosmetics

1 pages, 129 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Alcones, A.M.; Gano, T.J.B. Phytochemical Screening and Antibacterial Activity of Jatropha multifida L. (Coral Bush) Leaf Extract-Based Soap Against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 193

by Ariel M. Alcones and Trixie Joy B. Gano

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 275; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050275 - 14 Oct 2026

Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

15 pages, 648 KB

Open AccessReview

Planning the Surgical Correction of Age-Related Changes in the Chin Region and Neck Based on Digital and Radiological Imaging Methods: A Literature Review

by Anastasiya S. Borisenko, Valentin I. Sharobaro, Alexey E. Avdeev, Sergey Y. Golovanov and Nigora S. Burkhonova

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 274; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050274 - 13 Oct 2026

Abstract

Age-related changes to the chin region and neck are among the most common reasons for consulting a plastic surgeon, and the outcome of rejuvenation surgery largely depends on the accuracy of preoperative planning. Digital imaging methods allow for an objective assessment of individual [...] Read more.

Age-related changes to the chin region and neck are among the most common reasons for consulting a plastic surgeon, and the outcome of rejuvenation surgery largely depends on the accuracy of preoperative planning. Digital imaging methods allow for an objective assessment of individual anatomical features, personalization of the surgical strategy, and improved predictability of the result. In this narrative review, based on a structured, PRISMA-informed search (PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, and eLibrary; 65 publications included), we systematize contemporary digital and radiological imaging methods for the chin region and neck—two-dimensional photography, three-dimensional photogrammetry, computed tomography and magnetic resonance imaging, cone-beam computed tomography (CBCT), CAD/CAM technologies, virtual and mixed reality, and artificial intelligence tools—and assess their diagnostic value for planning rejuvenation surgery. Available preliminary, predominantly single-centre evidence suggests that CBCT performed in the upright patient position may be the most informative modality for this task: by capturing bony landmarks together with the position and outer contours of the relevant soft-tissue structures under gravitational load, it supports an objective assessment of the contribution of individual structures to age-related deformities and well-founded, individualized surgical planning. Its intrinsic soft-tissue contrast resolution is nevertheless limited compared with MRI. The integration of digital and radiological imaging methods is a vital part of modern planning of aesthetic surgery for the chin region and neck. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Non-Invasive Diagnostics: New Advance in Cosmetology and Aesthetic Medicine)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

21 pages, 7029 KB

Open AccessReview

Pomegranate Peel Bioactive Compounds for Topical Anti-Acne Cosmeceuticals: Phytochemistry, Biological Evidence, and Formulation Challenges—A Comprehensive Review

by Su Xin Jie and Saeid Mezail Mawazi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 273; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050273 - 12 Oct 2026

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit driven by a multifactorial pathogenesis involving excess sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinisation, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, oxidative stress, and immune-mediated inflammation. Conventional therapies, such as topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, hormonal agents, and [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit driven by a multifactorial pathogenesis involving excess sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinisation, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, oxidative stress, and immune-mediated inflammation. Conventional therapies, such as topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, hormonal agents, and isotretinoin, remain the standard of care; however, their clinical utility is frequently limited by local irritation, dryness, poor tolerability, post-treatment relapse, and the rising threat of antimicrobial resistance. In this review, the anti-acne benefits of pomegranate peel as a botanical agent have been discussed with respect to phytochemical composition, biological activities, and formulation difficulties. The phytochemistry of pomegranate peel includes bioactive polyphenols, such as hydrolyzable tannins (e.g., punicalagin and ellagic acid), phenolic acids (e.g., gallic acid), flavonoids, and anthocyanins, with a range of biological properties such as synergistic antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and enzyme-inhibitory activities, which act on different steps involved in the process of acne development. Currently, the biological activity of pomegranate peel extracts includes inhibition of bacteria associated with acne, decreased lipase activity of bacteria, antioxidant action, and modification of inflammatory pathways, thus allowing its use as a multi-targeted botanical agent. However, there are still several formulation difficulties, including emulsion stabilization, prevention of syneresis, efficacy of preservatives, and optimal release of active compounds, which should be taken into account in the development of anti-acne pomegranate formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

20 pages, 6479 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of an Electroporation-Based At-Home Beauty Device Used with a Cosmetic Product on Skin Appearance and Quality

by Jihee Park, Danbi Im, Serim Park, Jaewoo Shin and Donghee Park

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 272; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050272 - 9 Oct 2026

Abstract

Electroporation (EP) can modulate the skin barrier, but clinical evidence for EP-based at-home beauty devices used with cosmetic products remains limited. This exploratory study evaluated whether adding an EP-based at-home beauty device to a polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN)-containing cosmetic product was associated with additional changes. [...] Read more.

Electroporation (EP) can modulate the skin barrier, but clinical evidence for EP-based at-home beauty devices used with cosmetic products remains limited. This exploratory study evaluated whether adding an EP-based at-home beauty device to a polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN)-containing cosmetic product was associated with additional changes. Permeability was assessed in a cultured human skin tissue model using caffeine, a small-molecule model compound. A 4-week split-face study was conducted in 22 healthy Korean women. The cosmetic product was applied to the entire face, and the device was applied only to the left side. In the tissue model, caffeine permeability was significantly higher in the test group at all time points after Holm adjustment. In the human study, the device–cosmetic side showed greater improvements than the cosmetic side in skin gloss (mean change difference, 5.091 SGU; 95% CI, 2.917–7.265), melanin content (−4.897 A.U.; 95% CI, −7.333 to −2.461), and skin brightness, although the L* difference was small (0.618 A.U.; 95% CI, 0.286–0.950) (p < 0.05). No product-related adverse skin reactions were reported. These findings suggest supportive effects of EP-based devices under cosmetic-use conditions; however, caffeine results cannot be directly extrapolated to macromolecules such as PDRN, and direct intradermal absorption and long-term effects require further evaluation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

29 pages, 1359 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Ethanol Concentration and Pulsed Electric Field Parameters on Bioactive Compound Recovery and Cosmetic-Relevant Activities of Theobroma cacao Pod Husk Extracts

by Tanongsak Sassa-deepaeng, Waranya Tharawatchruk, Pat Pranamormkrit, Chatchawan Kantala, Jirasit Inthorn, Saranya Juntrapirom, Watchara Kanjanakawinkul and Wantida Chaiyana

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 271; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050271 - 9 Oct 2026

Abstract

This study aimed to investigate pulsed electric field (PEF)-assisted extraction of cocoa pod husk (CPH) and to evaluate its antioxidant and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities. CPH was extracted using 0–100% v/v ethanol at an electric field strength of 5 kV/cm with 1000, [...] Read more.

This study aimed to investigate pulsed electric field (PEF)-assisted extraction of cocoa pod husk (CPH) and to evaluate its antioxidant and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities. CPH was extracted using 0–100% v/v ethanol at an electric field strength of 5 kV/cm with 1000, 3000, or 5000 pulses. The extracts were analyzed for their total content of phenolic, flavonoid, tannin, and saponin, as well as antioxidant, hyaluronidase inhibitory, and elastase inhibitory activities. Selected extracts were further evaluated for irritation potential using the hen’s egg test–chorioallantoic membrane (HET–CAM) assay and chemical composition by liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC–MS). Ethanol concentration significantly influenced phytochemical recovery, with 25% ethanol generally favoring phenolic and flavonoid extraction, whereas higher ethanol concentrations promoted selected enzyme-inhibitory activities. The highest hyaluronidase inhibition was obtained with 25% ethanol and 5000 pulses (60.57 ± 5.56%). The 25% ethanol/1000-pulse extract showed strong elastase inhibition (74.70 ± 4.00%). LC–MS tentatively annotated several bioactive compounds, including kojic acid, procyanidin, gallic acid, caffeic acid, rutin, and quercetin glucoside. In conclusion, ethanol concentration and PEF pulse number affected the phytochemical recovery and biological activities of CPH extracts, while the resulting extracts may serve as candidates for further investigation as cosmetic ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Innovation in Cosmetics)

7 pages, 196 KB

Open AccessEditorial

Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds—2nd Edition

by Othmane Merah

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 270; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050270 - 9 Oct 2026

Abstract

Plant natural remedies have formed the cornerstone of traditional healthcare, particularly in skincare, since antiquity, spanning Traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda, Greco-Roman rituals, and Mediterranean practices [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)

24 pages, 2455 KB

Open AccessReview

Next-Generation UV Filters and Delivery Systems: Safety, Photostability, and Environmental Sustainability

by Muhammad Raza and Hyang-Yeol Lee

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 269; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050269 - 8 Oct 2026

Abstract

Sunscreens are essential for protecting the skin against harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation; however, conventional UV filters may exhibit limited photostability, skin penetration, and environmental concerns. Next-generation photoprotective systems, including liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, polymeric nanoparticles, and cyclodextrin-based systems, have [...] Read more.

Sunscreens are essential for protecting the skin against harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation; however, conventional UV filters may exhibit limited photostability, skin penetration, and environmental concerns. Next-generation photoprotective systems, including liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, polymeric nanoparticles, and cyclodextrin-based systems, have shown improved photostability, improved skin retention, and reduced undesired permeation while maintaining photoprotective efficacy. Advanced formulations have shown encapsulation efficiencies of approximately 60–99% and improvements in SPF compared with corresponding free-filter formulations. In addition, chemical strategies such as glycosylation can modify the physicochemical properties, formulation compatibility, and stability of hydrophobic or bioactive photoprotective compounds, although their large-scale application remains limited by synthetic complexity and scalability. This review emphasizes recent literature published between 2020 and 2026 while incorporating selected earlier foundational studies where necessary to provide mechanistic and historical context. Particular emphasis is placed on the balance between photoprotective efficacy, dermal retention, systemic exposure, environmental safety, and translational feasibility. Overall, next-generation sunscreen technologies offer promising strategies for developing safer and more sustainable photoprotection, but standardized safety assessment, scalable manufacturing, and regulatory harmonization remain essential for successful translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

19 pages, 2323 KB

Open AccessArticle

Instrumental Evaluation of Skin Structural Parameters After 56 Days of Use of a Home-Use LED Photobiomodulation Device

by Mar Miñano Núñez

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 268; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050268 - 7 Oct 2026

Abstract

Light-emitting diode (LED) photobiomodulation has emerged as a non-invasive approach for skin quality improvement and reduction in visible aging signs. This study evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a combined skincare regimen consisting of a home-use silicone LED facial mask emitting red light [...] Read more.

Light-emitting diode (LED) photobiomodulation has emerged as a non-invasive approach for skin quality improvement and reduction in visible aging signs. This study evaluated the efficacy and tolerability of a combined skincare regimen consisting of a home-use silicone LED facial mask emitting red light used together with a cosmetic serum for skin rejuvenation. An open, single-centre clinical study without a control group was conducted in 20 healthy female volunteers aged 40–55 years presenting visible facial wrinkles and skin imperfections. Participants used the LED mask twice daily for 10 min over 56 days, each session being followed by application of a standardized cosmetic serum, so that the LED device and the serum were evaluated as a single combined regimen. Skin evaluations were performed at baseline (D0), after 28 days (D28), and after 56 days (D56) using three-dimensional skin topography (AEVA-HE), high-frequency ultrasound imaging (Ultrascan^® UC22), biomechanical measurements (Cutometer^® dual MPA 580), and pigmentation analysis (Mexameter^® MX18). In the exploratory analysis, a statistically significant improvement in the Cutometer firmness parameter (F4) was observed at D56 compared with baseline (p = 0.03). Changes in elasticity, pigmentation, wrinkle-related topographic measurements and dermal thickness did not reach statistical significance and are reported only as non-significant numerical trends. The treatment was well tolerated, with no significant skin reactions observed. These preliminary findings suggest that a combined regimen incorporating home-use LED photobiomodulation and a cosmetic serum may be associated with an improvement in skin firmness. Because the study was uncontrolled and the LED device was used together with a serum, the observed changes cannot be attributed to photobiomodulation alone and should be interpreted as preliminary. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

23 pages, 10043 KB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation, Stability, and Safety Evaluation of a Facial Wash Containing Yellowfin Tuna (Thunnus albacares) Bone-Derived Marine Collagen Peptide and Light Fraction Patchouli Oil

by Nadia Isnaini, Vicky Prajaputra, Ernawati Ernawati, Lydia Septa Desiyana, Tedy Kurniawan Bakri, Dara Meutia Panggabean and Cutwan Annura Rezkina

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 267; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050267 - 6 Oct 2026

Abstract

Yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares) bone by-products represent an underutilized, sustainable source of marine collagen for cosmetic applications. This study developed a gel-based facial wash combining tuna bone-derived marine collagen peptide (MCP) with light fraction patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) and [...] Read more.

Yellowfin tuna (Thunnus albacares) bone by-products represent an underutilized, sustainable source of marine collagen for cosmetic applications. This study developed a gel-based facial wash combining tuna bone-derived marine collagen peptide (MCP) with light fraction patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin Benth.) and evaluated its physicochemical properties, stability, and safety. Acid-soluble collagen (85.2% protein) was extracted and hydrolyzed with pepsin, yielding a low-molecular-weight MCP (<30 kDa) with a degree of hydrolysis of 27.4 ± 1.8%; FTIR confirmed the preservation of characteristic type I collagen amide bands. Four formulations containing xanthan or guar gum were evaluated under freeze–thaw cycling and three-month storage at 30 and 40 °C. The formulation containing 1% guar gum (F4) showed the most favorable profile, maintaining pH 5.60–5.87, viscosity 8884–9223 mPa·s, spreadability 5.36–6.41 cm, and homogeneity across all conditions. F4 met Indonesian regulatory requirements, with microbial counts below 10 CFU/g, absence of pathogens, and trace levels of arsenic (0.0051 mg/kg) and lead (0.0171 mg/kg). Skin testing in 20 volunteers yielded a Primary Skin Irritation Index of 0.1 (negligible irritant). These findings establish tuna bone collagen peptide as a viable rinse-off cosmetic ingredient and demonstrate a practical route for valorizing fisheries by-products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

14 pages, 670 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Photoprotective Cosmetic Formulation Assessment Containing a Standardized Extract of Marcetia latifolia

by Annabel Azevedo-Silva, Sônia Carine Costa Cova, Carla Rodrigues Cardoso Branco, Isabella Mary Alves Reis, Tânia Regina dos Santos Silva, Mariana Borges Botura and Alexsandro Branco

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 266; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050266 - 5 Oct 2026

Abstract

The Marcetia species are well adapted to semi-arid regions and stand out as promising sources of phenolic compounds, including flavonoids, with potential photoprotective properties. The aim of this study was to investigate the photoprotective potential of a standardized extract of Marcetia latifolia leaves [...] Read more.

The Marcetia species are well adapted to semi-arid regions and stand out as promising sources of phenolic compounds, including flavonoids, with potential photoprotective properties. The aim of this study was to investigate the photoprotective potential of a standardized extract of Marcetia latifolia leaves for potential application in a sunscreen formulation (UV-A and UV-B). The crude ethanolic extract of M. latifolia leaves (EEML) was standardized to contain 16.48 g of quercetin and 5.23 g of calycopterin per kg of plant and incorporated into a lotion based on Polawax^®. The EEML was evaluated for its photoprotective potential by determining its flavonoid content, antioxidant activity, in vitro SPF and toxicity, with a view to its subsequent incorporation into a cosmetic formulation. The extract showed high flavonoid content, combined with relevant antioxidant activity and SPF values (13 and 7.12 at concentrations of 250 and 125 μg/μL, respectively). It also showed UVA photoprotective potential, with only 7.62% degradation of the RVS. In the HET-CAM test, EEML showed low irritant potential (IS: 2.43). The formulations containing the EEML showed satisfactory physicochemical characteristics after organoleptic, centrifugation and spreadability tests. The formulations showed satisfactory SPF and photoprotective performance. These results indicate the feasibility of using the EEML as a sunscreen in pharmaceutical preparations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bio-Innovation and Inclusion: Scientific Advances in Dermocosmetics, Hair, and Skin Care Derived from Brazilian Sources)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

25 pages, 2536 KB

Open AccessReview

Oleogel-Based Formulations for Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical Applications: Current Landscape and Future Directions

by Ana Torres, Elisbeth J. Gomes, Ana Jesus, Honorina Cidade, Susana Casal and Isabel F. Almeida

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 265; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050265 - 4 Oct 2026

Abstract

Oleogels have attracted considerable interest as structured lipid systems due to their ability to immobilize liquid oils and tailor the physicochemical properties of formulations. Although much of the fundamental knowledge on oleogel development derives from food-related research, the unique structural, rheological, and textural [...] Read more.

Oleogels have attracted considerable interest as structured lipid systems due to their ability to immobilize liquid oils and tailor the physicochemical properties of formulations. Although much of the fundamental knowledge on oleogel development derives from food-related research, the unique structural, rheological, and textural properties of these systems have increasingly supported their exploration also for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. This review aims to explore the relevance of oleogels in these industries by compiling and critically evaluating the current knowledge on cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, with particular emphasis on their composition, preparation methods, and the rationale underlying their selection and use. Studies on oleogels for cosmetic uses are limited, while in pharmaceuticals, oleogels have been extensively studied for topical drug delivery, being their use in oral, transdermal, and intraocular delivery less explored. Oleogels are versatile and biocompatible delivery systems, ideal for transporting lipophilic active ingredients. Their inner structure modulates drug delivery, making them promising vehicles for innovative cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

17 pages, 2553 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy of 7% Ectoine Cream for Facial Seborrheic Dermatitis: A Randomized Controlled Trial of Acute and Maintenance Phases

by Nirynya Jitarayameth, Nanticha Faromkao, Chotinij Lertphanichkul, Chantalck Muennarong and Montree Udompataikul

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 264; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050264 - 3 Oct 2026

Abstract

Background: Seborrheic dermatitis is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory condition requiring acute and maintenance treatment. Ectoine, a natural extremolyte with barrier-supportive and anti-inflammatory properties, offers a potential non-steroidal option. Methods: In this double-blind randomized controlled trial, 40 participants received 7% ectoine or 1% hydrocortisone [...] Read more.

Background: Seborrheic dermatitis is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory condition requiring acute and maintenance treatment. Ectoine, a natural extremolyte with barrier-supportive and anti-inflammatory properties, offers a potential non-steroidal option. Methods: In this double-blind randomized controlled trial, 40 participants received 7% ectoine or 1% hydrocortisone cream twice daily for up to 4 weeks. Responders entered a 12-week maintenance phase and were re-randomized to ectoine or placebo. Outcomes included change in Seborrheic Dermatitis Area and Severity Index (SEDASI) from baseline, Investigator’s Global Assessment (IGA), remission and relapse rates, time to relapse, and adverse events. Results: SEDASI decreased from baseline in both groups. The reduction was larger with hydrocortisone, but the between-group mean difference at Week 4 was −2.01 (95% CI, −4.81 to 0.78; p = 0.151). Median time to relapse was 56 versus 28 days with ectoine and placebo, respectively (log-rank p = 0.066). Adverse events were mild. Conclusions: Overall, 7% Ectoine reduced disease severity during the acute phase, though numerically less than 1% hydrocortisone; the non-significant difference does not exclude a clinically relevant advantage of hydrocortisone. Ectoine showed a non-significant trend toward longer time to relapse. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

17 pages, 950 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Changing Landscape of Science Published by a Cross-Section of 15 Leading Beauty Companies, 2015–2025: A Bibliometric Analysis

by Seth J. Orlow

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 263; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050263 - 3 Oct 2026

Abstract

Science is central to the beauty business, but how has the peer-reviewed science published by leading companies changed? This bibliometric analysis examined 2571 peer-reviewed papers authored or coauthored by scientists affiliated with a cross-section of 15 leading beauty companies. The study period was [...] Read more.

Science is central to the beauty business, but how has the peer-reviewed science published by leading companies changed? This bibliometric analysis examined 2571 peer-reviewed papers authored or coauthored by scientists affiliated with a cross-section of 15 leading beauty companies. The study period was divided into 2015–2020 (early) and 2021–2025 (late). Annual publication output rose 16.4%. After a blinded repeat-classification check and full-dataset quality-control review, the later portfolio included more clinical or other human research and less biological, mechanistic, or preclinical research, while the latter remained the largest category; papers linking laboratory and human work also increased. The study additionally assessed whether publications increasingly evaluated products, ingredients, or methods relevant to consumer-facing claims. The estimated share rose from about one-quarter to more than two-fifths, and the increase persisted with narrower claim-oriented definitions. Median field-weighted citation impact (FWCI) declined from 1.15 to 1.02, although later-period papers appeared among the top 10% of comparable publications at about twice the expected rate. The increase in claim-oriented research did not explain the citation decline. Thus, within this 15-company cross-section, peer-reviewed publishing became more abundant and increasingly human- and claim-oriented while mechanistic research remained the largest component; normalized scholarly influence declined from an unusually strong early position but remained above benchmark. Full article

► Show Figures

Figure 1

10 pages, 731 KB

Open AccessReview

R&D and Innovation to Drive Healthy Beauty, Wellness, Wellbeing, Wealth and Longevity: The Novel Tissue-Carriers

by Pierfrancesco Morganti, Hong-Duo Chen, Vladimir E. Yudin and Xinghua Gao

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 262; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050262 - 1 Oct 2026

Abstract

R&D are fundamental means for driving innovation in the market, maintaining competitive advantages and ensuring long-term business and sustainability. At this purpose it is considered necessary to find new opportunities for making novel products in the field of cosmetics (cosmeceuticals) and diet supplement [...] Read more.

R&D are fundamental means for driving innovation in the market, maintaining competitive advantages and ensuring long-term business and sustainability. At this purpose it is considered necessary to find new opportunities for making novel products in the field of cosmetics (cosmeceuticals) and diet supplement (nutraceuticals), remembering that Scientific research is organized in three phases: basic, applied and industrial. After explaining the significance of these phases, this paper will discuss the physical, mental, spiritual, emotional, social, economic and environmental global conditions for trying to achieve an healthy beauty together with wellness, wellbeing, wealth and longevity by the so-called Beauty from Within (BW), following the actual consumer demand and the cosme-nutraceutical market. According to the BW rules,in fact, for obtaining a real healthy beauty, it would be necessary to contemporary use the same ingredients applied on the skin surface by a cosmetic product (cosmeceutical) and taken by the oral route by a specific diet supplement (nutraceutical). For this purpose, our research group is proposing soecialized tissue-carriers to be used as alternative vehicles in partial substitution of the actual emulsions. The effectiveness of these novel natural and biodegradable skin- and eco-friendly vehicles, used to load,carrry and release selected active ingredients by innovative cosme-nutraceuticals, have been supported and controlled by in vitro and in vivo studies. Therefore they might be useful for safeguarding global human health and the body’s microbiome,maintaining the environmental integrity. The majority of cosmetics and diet supplements, in fact, are using as vehicles various emulsions which contain different kinds of chemicals, such as preservatives, emulsifiers, fragrances and other ingredients, which often cause skin allergies and sensitization phenomena. Moreover, the majority of these cosme-nutraceuticals are packed by non-biodegradable plastic containers, differently from out proposed products that are packed by biodegradable foils of paper or aluminum. Thus, these novel cosme-nutraceuticals, made from natural polymers and ingredients and packed by plastic-free containers, are 100% biodegradable and characterized by significant effectiveness and safety also. Moreover, This category of cosmetics seems capable of supporting cell adhesion, proliferation and differentiation, reinforcing their intercommunication, increasing ECM activity, maintaining AMP activity, and reducing the onset of the reported irritative phenomena, thus safeguarding the environmental microbiome’s integrity and the Earth’s biodiversity. This statement was supported by different in vitro and in vivo studies regarding both the ingredients and packaging used. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

15 pages, 3501 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Tolerability of a Topical Gel Containing Milk-Derived miRNA-Enriched Exosomes in Androgenetic Alopecia and Telogen Effluvium: A 12-Week Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial

by Daniela Pinto, Maria Fortuna, Marco Andrea Tomassini, Giammaria Giuliani and Fabio Rinaldi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 261; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050261 - 1 Oct 2026

Abstract

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and chronic telogen effluvium (TE) are common hair loss disorders with substantial psychosocial impact and limited effective topical options beyond minoxidil. MicroRNAs (miRNAs) have emerged as promising modulators of hair follicle cycling via Wnt/β-catenin and related pathways. In this multicenter, [...] Read more.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and chronic telogen effluvium (TE) are common hair loss disorders with substantial psychosocial impact and limited effective topical options beyond minoxidil. MicroRNAs (miRNAs) have emerged as promising modulators of hair follicle cycling via Wnt/β-catenin and related pathways. In this multicenter, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, adults aged 18–60 years with AGA, female AGA, or TE were allocated 1:1 to receive a topical gel containing bovine milk-derived exosomes enriched in specific miRNAs (MEV-miRNA gels) or placebo once weekly for 12 weeks. Primary endpoints were changes in anagen hair percentage, anagen/telogen ratio, and hair shaft diameter assessed by digital photo-trichogram at week 8 and week 12 versus baseline; secondary endpoints included patient-reported outcomes, global clinical assessment, and safety/tolerability. Of 40 randomized subjects, 39 (97.5%) completed the study. In the MEV-miRNA gel group, anagen hair percentage increased from 58% at baseline to 70% at week 8 and 78% at week 12, with corresponding improvements in anagen/telogen ratio (from 1.45 to 2.46 and 3.63) and mean hair shaft diameter (from 47.5 µm to 65.3 µm and 70.6 µm; all p < 0.05 vs. baseline and vs. placebo). The placebo did not show significant changes in trichoscopic parameters. At week 12, most MEV-miRNA-treated patients reported stronger hair, reduced shedding, and improved overall hair quality, with high satisfaction rates and no treatment-related serious adverse events. Once-weekly application of a topical gel containing bovine milk-derived microRNA-enriched exosomes significantly improved trichoscopic and patient-reported outcomes in AGA and TE over 12 weeks, with a favorable short-term tolerability profile. These findings support exosome-based microRNA delivery as a novel, non-pharmacologic therapeutic approach for hair loss disorders. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

38 pages, 3513 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Data-Driven Analysis of Core Dermocosmetic Formulation Patterns for Inflammatory and Barrier-Impaired Skin Conditions

by Delia Turcov, Mădălina Paraschiv, Anca-Irina Galaction, Bianca-Iulia Ciubotaru and Anca Zbranca-Toporaş

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 260; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050260 - 1 Oct 2026

Abstract

Dermocosmetic products for chronic inflammatory and barrier-impaired skin conditions sit in an underexamined space between cosmetics and pharmaceutical care: widely marketed, yet what actually drives their formulation is rarely made explicit or checked against evidence-based standards. This study analyzes 73 products across six [...] Read more.

Dermocosmetic products for chronic inflammatory and barrier-impaired skin conditions sit in an underexamined space between cosmetics and pharmaceutical care: widely marketed, yet what actually drives their formulation is rarely made explicit or checked against evidence-based standards. This study analyzes 73 products across six major indications involving chronic inflammatory and barrier-impaired skin conditions, with ingredient composition data extracted directly from product packaging and manufacturer documentation and analyzed using ingredient-level profiling and benchmarking against current dermatology guidelines. The results identify a stable, shared formulation core across product categories, with distinct therapeutic adaptations layered on top: ceramide-rich barrier support in atopic dermatitis, mechanism-specific actives distinguishing psoriasis, rosacea and wound-healing formulas. Guideline comparison surfaces both strong alignment and specific gaps, including under-used, well-evidenced ingredients in xerosis products and guideline-flagged irritants present in sensitive-skin formulations. Together, these findings offer manufacturers a validated formulation baseline and a way to spot genuine innovation gaps, give clinicians a mechanism-based reference for product selection and help consumers gain a clearer, evidence-anchored basis for evaluating products in an increasingly crowded and claims-saturated market. The methodology is designed for reuse, offering a practical foundation for evidence-based advancement across formulation, clinical practice and product choice in dermocosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

26 pages, 24524 KB

Open AccessArticle

Multidimensional In Vivo Assessment of Skin Performance Following Repeated Application of a Multi-Step Cosmetic Regimen

by Orion Jucja, Dolores Vargas Peregrina, Lucrezia Di Nicolantonio, Cristina Casadidio and Roberta Censi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 259; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050259 - 27 Sep 2026

Abstract

Background/Objectives: Topical cosmetic actives are increasingly delivered through multi-step regimens intended to improve skin hydration, barrier function, biomechanical properties, and visible signs of aging. Because the performance of such systems cannot be fully captured by a single endpoint, multidimensional approaches are useful [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: Topical cosmetic actives are increasingly delivered through multi-step regimens intended to improve skin hydration, barrier function, biomechanical properties, and visible signs of aging. Because the performance of such systems cannot be fully captured by a single endpoint, multidimensional approaches are useful to describe skin responses across complementary instrumental and subjective endpoints. This exploratory study aimed to develop and apply an in vivo assessment framework for evaluating skin changes associated with use of a multi-product topical cosmetic regimen targeting signs of skin aging. Methods: A 30-day exploratory, open-label, uncontrolled study was conducted using a four-step facial routine comprising a serum, an eye contour treatment, a day cream, and a night cream as a model of sequential topical administration. The evaluation integrated instrumental and subjective endpoints, including transepidermal water loss for barrier function, superficial and deep hydration measurements, elastometry for skin elasticity, colorimetric analysis for brightness, Antera^® 3D-CS imaging for wrinkles and fine lines, roughness parameters for skin texture, and self-assessment questionnaires for perceived efficacy and cosmetic acceptability. Results: After 30 days of repeated application, statistically significant within-study changes from baseline were observed in transepidermal water loss, superficial hydration, brightness, deep hydration, elasticity, wrinkle length, wrinkle index, fine-line length, fine-line index, and surface roughness. Subject-reported outcomes were consistent with the instrumental results, particularly regarding perceived hydration, smoothness, and overall skin quality. Conclusions: The proposed uncontrolled exploratory multidimensional in vivo framework enabled the descriptive assessment of skin performance changes during repeated use of a multi-step cosmetic regimen. The combined instrumental and self-assessment approach supports a broader characterization of cosmetic-related skin changes in hydration, barrier function, elasticity, texture, and visible signs of aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

17 pages, 3365 KB

Open AccessArticle

Design, Multiparametric Stability, Antioxidant Activity and Release Behavior of an Oil-in-Water Cosmetic Emulsion Co-Loaded with Tyrosol and Kynurenic Acid

by Stefano Di Palma, Salvatore Baldino, Fabrizio Caldera, Francesco Trotta and Adrián Matencio

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 258; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050258 - 25 Sep 2026

Abstract

Tyrosol and kynurenic acid (KYNA) are natural antioxidants with complementary radical-scavenging and photo-absorbing properties, but their combined performance in a cosmetic formulation has not been reported. We developed an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing tyrosol, KYNA, or a 1:1 mixture, using an unloaded emulsion [...] Read more.

Tyrosol and kynurenic acid (KYNA) are natural antioxidants with complementary radical-scavenging and photo-absorbing properties, but their combined performance in a cosmetic formulation has not been reported. We developed an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing tyrosol, KYNA, or a 1:1 mixture, using an unloaded emulsion as control. Formulations were evaluated for four weeks at 4, 25, and 40 °C using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), rheology, spreadability, centrifugation, pH, DPPH antioxidant activity, HPLC quantification and release through a dialysis membrane; compositional stability was assessed by elemental (CHN) analysis. Chemical equilibrium parameters showed a consistent trend: the first week represented a maturation phase, likely reflecting redistribution of actives within the matrix, followed by a stable equilibrium state. The results are therefore discussed as initial versus equilibrated conditions. At equilibrium, the binary formulation maintained a skin-compatible pH (4.40 ± 0.04) with lower variability than single-active systems. HPLC confirmed nominal loading without degradation (0.89 ± 0.08% tyrosol, 0.97 ± 0.10% KYNA, and 1.00 ± 0.18% total in the mixture). DPPH analysis of standards revealed cooperative antioxidant enhancement in the mixture, exceeding the activity of either compound alone. In the creams, this produced a modest but reproducible antioxidant effect (9.00 ± 3.94%, 8.91 ± 3.56%, and 7.02 ± 3.59% inhibition for tyrosol, KYNA, and the mixture, respectively, versus 0.67 ± 4.80% for the control). The mixture showed a significant sub-additive interaction only at 4 °C (p = 0.014). Mechanical stability depended mainly on storage temperature: centrifugation-induced phase separation increased from 8% to 28% between weeks 2 and 4 and was largely prevented at room temperature or above. In the dialysis model, the mixture markedly increased tyrosol release while reducing KYNA release, a behavior tentatively attributed to proton-exchange/keto–enol interactions. Overall, room temperature was the optimal storage condition, and the tyrosol-KYNA combination emerged as a stable, skin-compatible antioxidant system for topical application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

► Show Figures

Graphical abstract

65 pages, 12293 KB

Open AccessReview

Calcium Hydroxylapatite in Facial Rejuvenation: A Review from Multi-Layered Aging Mechanisms to Material-Property-Guided Clinical Practice

by Yao Jia and Yangchun Xie

Cosmetics 2026, 13(5), 257; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050257 - 25 Sep 2026

Abstract

Contemporary research on facial aging is undergoing a profound paradigm shift, transitioning from macroscopic descriptive phenotyping to refined cellular-molecular mechanistic dissection. This review reveals these frontiers across multi-omics and structural dimensions, highlighting single-cell transcriptomic alterations (e.g., KLF6 and HES1 dysregulation), proteomic hubs (e.g., [...] Read more.

Contemporary research on facial aging is undergoing a profound paradigm shift, transitioning from macroscopic descriptive phenotyping to refined cellular-molecular mechanistic dissection. This review reveals these frontiers across multi-omics and structural dimensions, highlighting single-cell transcriptomic alterations (e.g., KLF6 and HES1 dysregulation), proteomic hubs (e.g., KNG1), epigenetic causal chains, and microbiome community succession within the cutaneous microenvironment. Concurrently, we map the progressive biomechanical failure of deeper tissues, including sequential adipose atrophy, SMAS-muscle complex degeneration, and sex-specific skeletal remodeling. Within the evolving landscape of regenerative aesthetics, calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) has emerged not merely as a passive space-occupying volumizer but as a dynamic biostimulatory material. We examine how CaHA’s morphology and rheological properties govern its biological behavior. Human histological studies provide evidence that CaHA is associated with fibroblast activity and temporal extracellular-matrix remodeling, particularly changes in type III and type I collagen expression. Changes in elastin- and angiogenesis-related markers have also been reported, whereas the mechanotransduction and immune-regulatory pathways proposed to underlie these responses remain supported predominantly by in vitro, ex vivo, and preclinical evidence and have not been fully validated in human facial tissue. Finally, we translate these material-driven interactions into advanced clinical strategies, including rheologically programmed dilution, layer-specific vectoring, and synergistic therapies. By bridging intricate aging biology with material-guided regeneration, this review provides a robust conceptual framework for individualized and precise rejuvenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advances and Integrated Strategies in Healthy Skin Aging)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

Journal Description

Cosmetics

Latest Articles

Journal Menu

Journal Browser

Highly Accessed Articles

Latest Books

E-Mail Alert

News

Topics

Conferences

Special Issues

Topical Collections

Further Information

Guidelines

MDPI Initiatives

Follow MDPI