Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: JCR - Q1 (Dermatology) / CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 22.5 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 3.9 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the first half of 2025).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.2 (2024);
5-Year Impact Factor:
3.9 (2024)
Latest Articles
In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Sensitisation: Challenges and Future Directions
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 173; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040173 - 12 Aug 2025
Abstract
Allergic contact dermatitis is one of the most common adverse events associated with cosmetic use. Accordingly, assessment of skin sensitisation hazard is required for safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The transition to the use of alternative methods for testing has made skin sensitisation
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Allergic contact dermatitis is one of the most common adverse events associated with cosmetic use. Accordingly, assessment of skin sensitisation hazard is required for safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The transition to the use of alternative methods for testing has made skin sensitisation an intense field in the past decades. The first alternative methods have been in place for almost a decade, but none as stand-alone replacement for the reference murine Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA). While strategies to combine data from several methods are being evaluated and refined, individual methods face technical limitations. These include issues related to their applicability to highly lipophilic substances and the lack of reliable potency estimation, which remain important obstacles to their widespread adoption as replacement for animal methods. The unique characteristics of in vitro skin models represented an attractive alternative, potentially overcoming these limitations and offering a more physiologically relevant environment for the assessment of the response in keratinocytes and dendritic cells. In this review, we recapitulate how reconstructed human skin models have been used as platforms for skin sensitisation testing, including the latest approaches using organ-on-a-chip and microfluidic technologies, aimed to develop next-generation organotypic skin models with increased complexity and monitoring capabilities.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Function Assessment: Applications in Cosmetics and Dermocosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Enzymes DNA Repair in Skin Photoprotection: Strategies Counteracting Skin Cancer Development and Photoaging Strategies
by
Ewelina Musielak and Violetta Krajka-Kuźniak
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 172; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040172 - 12 Aug 2025
Abstract
Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a major contributor to skin aging and carcinogenesis, primarily through the induction of DNA damage. While conventional sunscreens provide passive protection by blocking UVR, active photoprotection using DNA repair enzymes offers a strategy to reverse UV-induced DNA lesions at
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Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a major contributor to skin aging and carcinogenesis, primarily through the induction of DNA damage. While conventional sunscreens provide passive protection by blocking UVR, active photoprotection using DNA repair enzymes offers a strategy to reverse UV-induced DNA lesions at the molecular level. Enzymes such as photolyase, T4 endonuclease V, and 8-oxoguanine glycosylase address distinct types of DNA damage through light-dependent and -independent mechanisms, complementing the skin’s endogenous repair systems. Advances in nanocarrier technologies and encapsulation methods have improved the stability and delivery of these enzymes in topical formulations. Emerging evidence from clinical studies indicates their potential in reducing actinic keratoses, pigmentation disorders, and photoaging signs, although challenges in regulatory approval, long-term efficacy validation, and formulation optimization remain. This review provides a comprehensive synthesis of the mechanistic, clinical, and formulation aspects of enzyme-based photoprotection, outlines regulatory and ethical considerations, and highlights future directions, including CRISPR-based repair and personalized photoprotection strategies, establishing enzyme-assisted sunscreens as a next-generation approach to comprehensive skin care.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessReview
Microplastics in Cosmetics: Emerging Risks for Skin Health and the Environment
by
Ju Hee Han and Hei Sung Kim
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 171; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040171 - 12 Aug 2025
Abstract
Microplastics, increasingly recognized as environmental pollutants, have raised concerns regarding their potential effects on human health. In cosmetics and personal care products, microplastics may pose a risk through skin absorption. This review explores the presence of microplastics in cosmetics, their potential exposure pathways,
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Microplastics, increasingly recognized as environmental pollutants, have raised concerns regarding their potential effects on human health. In cosmetics and personal care products, microplastics may pose a risk through skin absorption. This review explores the presence of microplastics in cosmetics, their potential exposure pathways, and their dermatological implications. Evidence suggests that microplastics can penetrate the skin barrier, induce oxidative stress, promote inflammation, and contribute to premature aging. Despite growing regulatory efforts, global inconsistencies hinder comprehensive policy implementation. Rising environmental and health concerns have also fueled interest in sustainable alternatives such as biodegradable polymers and eco-friendly packaging. Further research is necessary to clarify long-term health effects and guide regulatory strategies.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
Comparative Effects of Microwave and Ultrasonic Pretreatments on the Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, and Moisturizing Activities of Yellow Silkworm Cocoon Extracts (Bombyx mori L., var. Nang Lai)
by
Sarocha Chareegun, Suvimol Somwongin, Jirasit Inthorn, Saranya Juntrapirom, Watchara Kanjanakawinkul and Wantida Chaiyana
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 170; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040170 - 11 Aug 2025
Abstract
Background: Silkworm cocoons are rich in bioactive compounds beneficial for cosmetic applications. This study presented a novel approach by comparing microwave and ultrasonic pretreatments to enhance silk protein extraction efficiency. The aim was to evaluate the effects of pretreatment methods and extraction solvents
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Background: Silkworm cocoons are rich in bioactive compounds beneficial for cosmetic applications. This study presented a novel approach by comparing microwave and ultrasonic pretreatments to enhance silk protein extraction efficiency. The aim was to evaluate the effects of pretreatment methods and extraction solvents on the bioactive components, physicochemical properties, and biological activities of silkworm cocoon extracts for cosmetic applications. Methods: Cocoons of Bombyx mori (Nang Lai) were pretreated using conventional soaking (12 h), microwave (3 min), or ultrasonication (30 min), and then subjected to aqueous or enzymatic extraction. The extracts were analyzed for protein, phenolic, and flavonoid content. Structural and thermal properties were characterized using infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, differential scanning calorimetry, and thermogravimetric analysis. Antioxidant and anti-aging properties were assessed by measuring the inhibition of nitric oxide, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH•), and collagenase. Skin moisturizing effects and irritation potential were tested. Results: Silkworm cocoons pretreated with microwave (ALM) and ultrasonication (ALS), followed by enzymatic extraction, had the highest yields (21.6 ± 0.5% and 21.7 ± 0.4%, respectively). Despite their slightly lower protein contents, these extracts showed elevated phenolic and flavonoid content. ALM and ALS demonstrated strong antioxidant activities, with DPPH• scavenging of 65.9 ± 0.2% and 65.2 ± 0.3%, collagenase inhibition of 60.3 ± 0.8% and 59.7 ± 1.7%, and nitric oxide inhibition of 13.5 ± 0.4% and 12.9 ± 0.2%, respectively. Skin moisturizing effects increased by 63.6 ± 2.1% for ALM and 61.2 ± 1.5% for ALS, compared to 1.3 ± 0.6% in the control. All extracts were found to be non-irritating for topical application, indicating their safety for skincare formulations. Conclusions: Microwave and ultrasonication pretreatments, in combination with enzymatic extraction, provide an effective, time-efficient, and sustainable method for producing silkworm cocoon extracts with promising cosmetic applications.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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Open AccessArticle
Pomegranate Peels: A Promising Source of Biologically Active Compounds with Potential Application in Cosmetic Products
by
Yulian Tumbarski, Ivan Ivanov, Radka Vrancheva, Nadezhda Mazova and Krastena Nikolova
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 169; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040169 - 11 Aug 2025
Abstract
As a rich source of biologically active compounds, pomegranate peel is a valuable by-product with applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors. The present study aimed to investigate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, photoprotective activity and application in a cosmetic
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As a rich source of biologically active compounds, pomegranate peel is a valuable by-product with applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors. The present study aimed to investigate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, photoprotective activity and application in a cosmetic emulsion of extracts obtained from pomegranate peel by different solvents. The analysis of phenolic compounds was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC); the total phenolic content (TPC) and the total flavonoid content (TFC) were evaluated using standard spectrophotometric methods; the antioxidant activity was assessed by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical-scavenging, ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and 2,2′-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays; antimicrobial screening was performed against twenty test microorganisms; the ultraviolet (UV) protection effect of extracts and cosmetic emulsion was assessed spectrophotometrically in the wavelength range of 290–320 nm. HPLC analysis revealed fourteen phenolic compounds, including four phenolic acids (ellagic, gallic, p-coumaric, and ferulic), two tannins (pedunculagin and punicalagin), six flavonoids (myricetin, hesperidin, quercetin, luteolin, kaempferol, and apigenin), and two quercetin glycosides (rutin and hyperoside). The four pomegranate peel extracts demonstrated high TPC, TFC and antioxidant potential (DMSO > 70% ethanolic > methanolic > aqueous), and significant antimicrobial activity. The four extracts showed a remarkable UV protection effect. When applied in a cosmetic emulsion, the ethanolic extract showed sun protection factor (SPF) values from 13.59 (0.5 mg/g) to 50.65 (5 mg/g). Based on the results obtained, we can conclude that pomegranate peel is a promising source of bioactive compounds, which can be successfully utilized by integration into various pharmaceutical and value-added skin health products.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessReview
Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia and the Role of Cosmeceuticals in Its Pathogenesis
by
Kristijan Harak, Lucija Tomić Krsnik, Marija Vukojević, Branka Marinović and Zrinka Bukvić Mokos
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 168; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040168 - 9 Aug 2025
Abstract
Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a primary lymphocytic cicatricial alopecia characterized by progressive frontotemporal hairline recession, frequently accompanied by eyebrow and body hair loss. Once considered rare, FFA is now recognized as the most common form of scarring alopecia, predominantly affecting postmenopausal women.
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Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a primary lymphocytic cicatricial alopecia characterized by progressive frontotemporal hairline recession, frequently accompanied by eyebrow and body hair loss. Once considered rare, FFA is now recognized as the most common form of scarring alopecia, predominantly affecting postmenopausal women. Although its pathogenesis remains unclear, hormonal, genetic, autoimmune, and environmental factors have been implicated. Among environmental contributors, the potential role of cosmeceuticals has received increasing attention, with particular emphasis on sunscreen and facial moisturizers. Patch testing has identified sensitization to allergens frequently found in these products. However, due to numerous limitations in the existing studies, the association between cosmeceuticals and FFA remains controversial. As the prevalence of FFA continues to rise alongside widespread cosmetic product use, understanding their potential role in disease pathogenesis is essential. Current findings highlight the need for further investigation into environmental triggers.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessReview
Unraveling the Gut–Skin Axis: The Role of Microbiota in Skin Health and Disease
by
Camelia Munteanu, Sabina Turti and Sorin Marian Marza
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 167; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040167 - 8 Aug 2025
Abstract
The complex interrelationship between the gut microbiota and the skin, commonly known as the “gut–skin axis” has become a crucial field of study for comprehending skin health and illness. Systemic immunity, inflammation, and metabolism are all modulated by this two-way communication mechanism, which
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The complex interrelationship between the gut microbiota and the skin, commonly known as the “gut–skin axis” has become a crucial field of study for comprehending skin health and illness. Systemic immunity, inflammation, and metabolism are all modulated by this two-way communication mechanism, which ultimately affects skin homeostasis. Numerous dermatological disorders, such as rosacea, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and acne vulgaris, have been linked to dysbiosis in the gut microbiota. On the other hand, the composition of the gut microbiome may be impacted by skin disorders. Highlighting the important microbial metabolites and immunological processes involved in this interaction, this abstract examines the current understanding of the gut–skin axis. It also talks about the possible therapeutic benefits of using probiotics, synbiotics, and prebiotics to target the gut microbiota to treat and prevent skin conditions. Gaining insight into this intricate interaction opens up exciting possibilities for creating innovative, all-encompassing dermatological treatment strategies.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Evaluating the Effect of Fresh and Aged Antioxidant Formulations in Skin Protection Against UV Damage
by
John Ivarsson, Patricia Brieva, Hina Choudhary and Giuseppe Valacchi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 166; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040166 - 7 Aug 2025
Abstract
Introduction: Extrinsic skin damage is often a result of oxidative stress caused by exposure to environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, ozone (O3), and various pollutants. As a result, topical antioxidants have been evaluated for their effectiveness in mitigating or
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Introduction: Extrinsic skin damage is often a result of oxidative stress caused by exposure to environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, ozone (O3), and various pollutants. As a result, topical antioxidants have been evaluated for their effectiveness in mitigating or reversing skin damage caused by environmental factors. Topical antioxidants containing a combination of l-ascorbic acid, tocopherol, and ferulic acid have significantly improved markers of skin health after exposure to environment-induced skin damage. However, research suggests that l-ascorbic acid and tocopherol tend to be relatively unstable, possibly affecting their efficacy against outdoor stressor damage. It has been shown that ferulic acid significantly improves the stability of both l-ascorbic acid and tocopherol, but its long-term stabilization effects on these antioxidants are relatively unknown. Material and Methods: This study evaluated the time-dependent effectiveness of a topical antioxidant mix containing 15% l-ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid (AOX) on UV-induced skin damage. Skin biopsies (12 mm, n = 60) were placed in a 6-well plate with medium and incubated at 37 °C and 5% CO2 overnight. The day after, skin samples were pretreated with 10 µL of differently aged AOX (0-, 6-, 12-, and 36-month-old) and then exposed to different doses of UV light (100, 200, 400 mJ/cm2) daily over four days. AOX formulations were stored in a cool, dry, and dark place at approximately 20–22 °C during the whole study. This study evaluated 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE) and 8-hydroxy-2′-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) as oxidative damage and skin DNA damage markers, Collagen1 and Filaggrin as skin structure, and IL-8 and Nrf2 as inflammatory and defensive response. Results: UV exposure significantly increased oxidative and inflammatory markers in human skin explants affecting also filaggrin and collagen levels. However, pre-treatment with the antioxidant formulation, particularly in its younger formulations (0-, 6-, and 12-month-old), significantly reduced the damaging effect of UV. Additionally, all antioxidant formulations effectively mitigated UV-induced damage across all doses. Conclusions: Our results indicate that pre-treatment with this formulation consistently reduces UV-induced oxidative damage and DNA damage in human skin explants, regardless of the formulation age and the discoloration state. Although effective, the protective capacity of aged formulations may be reduced only when extreme UV exposure is tested, a condition that is unlikely to occur under typical environmental conditions. These results support ferulic acid as a stabilization agent for topical antioxidant mixtures.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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Open AccessArticle
Metagenomic Analysis of the Skin Microbiota of Brazilian Women: How to Develop Anti-Aging Cosmetics Based on This Knowledge?
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Raquel Allen Garcia Barbeto Siqueira, Ana Luiza Viana Pequeno, Yasmin Rosa Santos, Romualdo Morandi-Filho, Alexandra Lan, Edileia Bagatin, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Newton Andreo-Filho and Patricia Santos Lopes
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 165; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040165 - 5 Aug 2025
Abstract
Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of
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Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of new tools to analyze skin microbiota is crucial for formulating cosmetic products that promote a healthy microbiome. Skin samples were analyzed using the Illumina platform. Biometrology assessments were applied. The results showed pH variations were more pronounced in the older age group, along with higher transepidermal water loss values. Metagenomic analysis showed a predominance of Actinobacteria (83%), followed by Proteobacteria (7%), Firmicutes (9%) and Bacteroidetes (1%). In the older group (36–45 years old), an increase in Actinobacteria (87%) was observed and a decrease in Proteobacteria (6%). Moreover, the results differ from the international literature, since an increase in proteobacteria (13.9%) and a decrease in actinobacteria (46.7%) were observe in aged skin. The most abundant genus identified was Propionibacterium (84%), being the dominant species. Interestingly, previous studies have suggested a decline in Cutibacterium abundance with aging; although there is no significant difference, it is possible to observe an increasing trend in this genus in older skin. These studies can clarify many points about the skin microbiota of Brazilian women, and these findings could lead to the development of new cosmetics based on knowledge of the skin microbiome.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Investigating the Behavior of a Natural Emulsifier in One-Pot and Standard Cosmetic Emulsions
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Mauro Battaiotto, Paolo Sonzini, Simone Conti, Miryam Chiara Malacarne and Enrico Caruso
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 164; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040164 - 5 Aug 2025
Abstract
The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form
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The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form emulsions, which are among the main cosmetic formulations. An important aspect in this regard is the evaluation of emulsions’ stability over time and emulsions’ production methodology. In this paper, a comparison is made between two emulsion production technologies, the Standard and the “One-Pot” methods, through the characterization of the raw material ABWAX® Revomul, a multifunctional wax for cosmetic use which consists of a low-melting structuring wax of vegetal origin (Rhus wax) and a natural emulsifier (Polyglyceril-3 Stearate). First, we evaluated the affinity between the wax raw materials and emollients of different chemical nature; then, we analyzed the impact of the production method on the emulsions to identify similarities and differences. ABWAX® Revomul demonstrated a high level of effectiveness in regard to stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. This study suggests that from an industrial point of view, the application of the two procedures allows products with different characteristics to be obtained, consequently allowing a specific method to be chosen to obtain the desired product.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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Open AccessArticle
Peony Root Extract Controls AGE–RAGE Interaction, Suppresses AGE Formation, and Reduces Skin Dullness
by
Kyoko Kanai, Kazal Boron Biswas, Asuka Hirasawa, Misaki Futamura, Kiyotaka Tanaka and Kotaro Sakamoto
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 163; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040163 - 4 Aug 2025
Abstract
Skin dullness contributes to a fatigued and aged appearance, often exceeding one’s biological age. It is a common dermatological concern influenced by aging and poor lifestyle habits, regardless of ethnicity or age. This study aimed to examine advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and
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Skin dullness contributes to a fatigued and aged appearance, often exceeding one’s biological age. It is a common dermatological concern influenced by aging and poor lifestyle habits, regardless of ethnicity or age. This study aimed to examine advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and their receptor (receptor for AGEs [RAGE]) as contributing factors to skin dullness. AGEs themselves have a yellowish hue, contributing to “yellow dullness.” Additionally, AGE–RAGE signaling promotes melanin production in melanocytes and impairs keratinocyte differentiation as a result of inflammation. Therefore, regulating the AGE–RAGE interaction may help reduce skin dullness. Through screening various natural ingredients, we found that peony root extract (PRE) inhibits AGE formation and blocks AGE–RAGE binding. Furthermore, the presence of PRE leads to the suppression of AGE-induced melanin production in melanocytes and the restoration of impaired keratinocyte differentiation in glycated basement membrane components. In a human clinical study, topical application of a 1% PRE-containing lotion for 2 weeks significantly reduced melanin content, with a trend toward decreased AGE accumulation and visible spots on the cheeks. These findings support the potential of PRE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that comprehensively addresses skin dullness by modulating the AGE–RAGE interaction.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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Open AccessCorrection
Correction: Wang et al. Effects of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate on UV-Induced Skin Ageing and Therapeutic Enhancement. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 68
by
Yuan Wang, Xin Nie, Jiangming Zhong, Jing Wang, Lanyue Zhang and Peng Shu
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 162; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040162 - 4 Aug 2025
Abstract
In the publication [...]
Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
Open AccessReview
Lip Photoprotection Patents (2014–2024): Key Trends and Emerging Technologies
by
Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Ana Sofia Guerrero Casas, Leonardo Castellanos, Mairim Russo Serafini and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 161; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040161 - 29 Jul 2025
Abstract
The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific
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The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific sun protection products remains underexplored. This study aims to analyze technological trends and innovations in lip photoprotection by reviewing patents published between 2014 and 2024. A comprehensive patent search using the IPC code A61Q19 and the keywords “lip” and “sunscreen” identified 17 relevant patents across China, the United States, and Japan. The patents were examined for active ingredients, formulation strategies, and use of botanical or sustainable excipients. The findings revealed that patented formulations predominantly rely on well-established UV filters such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, often combined with antioxidants like ferulic acid and rutin for enhanced efficacy. Lipid-based excipients were widely used to improve texture, hydration, and product stability. Although many formulations exhibit a conservative ingredient profile, the strategic combination of UV filters with natural antioxidants and moisturizing lipids demonstrates a multifunctional approach aimed at enhancing both protection and user experience.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Exploring the Antioxidant and Preservative Potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth Essential Oil in Pure and Encapsulated Forms for Cosmetic Applications
by
M. Fernanda Lopes, Sandra M. Gomes, Wanderley P. Oliveira and Lúcia Santos
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 160; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040160 - 28 Jul 2025
Abstract
The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study
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The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study aimed to evaluate the preservative and antioxidant potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth essential oil, in pure and encapsulated in β-cyclodextrin form, for cosmetic applications. The EO exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with low IC50 values in DPPH and ABTS assays, and demonstrated antimicrobial efficacy, particularly against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. Six cosmetic cream formulations were developed and tested for physicochemical and microbiological stability. Formulations with pure EO maintained high antioxidant performance and remained free of bacterial and fungal contamination over time, outperforming the commercial preservatives. In contrast, formulations with encapsulated EO exhibited delayed antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, indicating gradual release. Overall, Lippia origanoides EO proved to be an effective natural alternative to synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This approach aligns with the current trend of eco-friendly formulations, offering a sustainable solution by incorporating plant-derived bioactives into cosmetic products.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Blackberry (Rubus spp. Xavante Cultivar) Oil-Loaded PCL Nanocapsules: Sustainable Bioactive for In Vitro Collagen-Boosting Skincare
by
Daniela F. Maluf, Brenda A. Lopes, Mariana D. Miranda, Luana C. Teixeira, Ana P. Horacio, Amanda Jansen, Madeline S. Correa, Guilherme dos Anjos Camargo, Jessica Mendes Nadal, Jane Manfron, Patrícia M. Döll-Boscardin and Paulo Vitor Farago
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 159; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040159 - 25 Jul 2025
Abstract
Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO2 extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was
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Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO2 extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was characterized by Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and incorporated into PCL nanocapsules (NCBSO) using the preformed polymer deposition method. Physicochemical properties, stability (at 4 °C, room temperature, and 37 °C for 90 days), cytotoxicity, and collagen production were assessed in human fibroblasts. Additionally, a predictive in silico analysis using PASS Online, Molinspiration, and SEA platforms was performed to identify the bioactivities of major BSO compounds related to collagen synthesis, antioxidant potential, and anti-aging effects. Results: NCBSO showed a nanometric size of ~267 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), negative zeta potential (−28 mV), and spherical morphology confirmed by FE-SEM. The dispersion remained stable across all tested temperatures, preserving pH and colloidal properties. In particular, BSO and NCBSO at 100 µg.mL−1 significantly enhanced in vitro collagen production by 170% and 200%, respectively, compared to untreated cells (p < 0.01). Superior bioactivity was observed for NCBSO. The in silico results support the role of key compounds in promoting collagen biosynthesis and protecting skin structure. No cytotoxic effects were achieved. Conclusions: The nanoencapsulation of BSO into PCL nanocapsules ensured formulation stability and potentiated collagen production. These findings support the potential of NCBSO as a promising candidate for future development as a collagen-boosting cosmeceutical.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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Open AccessArticle
Dynamic vs. Static Light Scattering: Evaluating the Tandem Use of Dynamic Light Scattering and Optical Microscopy as an Attractive Alternative for Oleosomes Size Characterization
by
Idit Yuli, Lotan Ben Yakov, Ariel Gliksberg and Paul Salama
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 158; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040158 - 25 Jul 2025
Abstract
Accurate characterization of oleosome particle size distribution is needed for understanding their functionality in various applications. Traditionally, high-cost methods such as static laser diffraction and confocal or electron microscopy have been used. The current study presents a cost-effective alternative by combining optical microscopy
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Accurate characterization of oleosome particle size distribution is needed for understanding their functionality in various applications. Traditionally, high-cost methods such as static laser diffraction and confocal or electron microscopy have been used. The current study presents a cost-effective alternative by combining optical microscopy (OM) with image analysis and dynamic light scattering (DLS) to evaluate particle size distribution in safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oleosomes. Monodisperse and polydisperse standards (2 µm and 1–10 µm, respectively) were selected to validate instrument performance. The use of a smaller cuvette with a shorter path length in DLS extended its detection capabilities by minimizing multiple scattering and thermal effects. DLS and OM produced relatively consistent results, accurate particles’ diameters and distribution widths that agreed well with the standards. In contrast, static light scattering (SLS) showed strong sensitivity to the weighting method used (by number vs. by volume). In the case of polydisperse standard, volume-weighted SLS overestimated the particle size and yielded a broader distribution with a span of 2.2 compared to a span value of 0.8 as reported by the supplier. These findings highlight the importance of method selection and demonstrate the potential of combining DLS and OM as a practical and reliable approach for oleosome characterization.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
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Open AccessReview
Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetic Formulation: Predictive Modeling for Safety, Tolerability, and Regulatory Perspectives
by
Antonio Di Guardo, Federica Trovato, Carmen Cantisani, Annunziata Dattola, Steven P. Nisticò, Giovanni Pellacani and Alessia Paganelli
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 157; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040157 - 24 Jul 2025
Abstract
Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers,
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Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, and prebiotics. These technologies are employed to forecast critical properties such as texture, stability, and shelf-life, optimizing both product performance and user experience. The integration of computational toxicology and ML algorithms also allows for early prediction of skin sensitization risks, including the likelihood of adverse events such as allergic contact dermatitis. Furthermore, AI models can support efficacy assessment, bridging formulation science with dermatological outcomes. The article also addresses the ethical, regulatory, and safety challenges associated with AI in cosmetic science, underlining the need for transparency, accountability, and harmonized standards. The potential of AI to reshape dermocosmetic innovation is vast, but it must be approached with robust oversight and a commitment to user well-being.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Recombinant Type XVII Collagen Promotes Hair Growth by Activating the Wnt/β-Catenin and SHH/GLI Signaling Pathways
by
Yuyao Zhang, Shiyu Yin, Ru Xu, Jiayu Xiao, Rui Yi, Jiahui Mao, Zhiguang Duan and Daidi Fan
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040156 - 23 Jul 2025
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(1) Background: As society progresses, increasing numbers of individuals are experiencing hair loss, which can be attributed to factors such as unhealthy diets, insufficient sleep, stress, and hormonal imbalances. Currently available pharmacological treatments for hair loss often cause undesirable side effects, highlighting the
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(1) Background: As society progresses, increasing numbers of individuals are experiencing hair loss, which can be attributed to factors such as unhealthy diets, insufficient sleep, stress, and hormonal imbalances. Currently available pharmacological treatments for hair loss often cause undesirable side effects, highlighting the urgent need to explore safer and more effective agents to promote hair restoration. This study investigated the role of recombinant human type XVII collagen derived from the α1 chain (rhCOL17A1) in facilitating hair growth and restoration. (2) Methods: We analyzed the impact of rhCOL17A1 on the mRNA expression of several growth factors, as well as Bcl-2 and Bax, at the cellular level. Moreover, the effects of rhCOL17A1 on the expression of key proteins in the Wnt/β-catenin and Sonic Hedgehog (SHH)/GLI signaling pathways were examined by Western blotting (WB). At the organismal level, we established a model in C57BL/6 mice through chronic subcutaneous administration of 5% testosterone propionate. We subsequently assessed the effect of rhCOL17A1 on hair regrowth via histological analysis using hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining and immunofluorescence staining. (3) Results: rhCOL17A1 contributes to the resistance of hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) to apoptosis. rhCOL17A1 activates the Wnt/β-catenin and SHH/GLI signaling pathways, and increases the expression of type XVII collagen (COLXVII), thereby creating a favorable environment for hair growth. Furthermore, rhCOL17A1 exerts a significant growth-promoting effect at the animal level. (4) Conclusions: rhCOL17 promotes hair growth by activating the Wnt/β-catenin and SHH/GLI signaling pathways and upregulating COLXVII expression.
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Open AccessArticle
Prospective Evaluation of a Thermogenic Topical Cream-Gel Containing Caffeine, Genistein, and Botanical Extracts for the Treatment of Moderate to Severe Cellulite
by
Vittoria Giulia Bianchi, Matteo Riccardo Di Nicola, Anna Cerullo, Giovanni Paolino and Santo Raffaele Mercuri
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040155 - 21 Jul 2025
Abstract
Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a
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Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a high demand for effective, non-invasive, and well-tolerated treatment options. This single-centre, in vivo, prospective study evaluated the efficacy of a non-pharmacological, thermogenic topical cream-gel combined with manual massage in women with symmetrical grade II or III cellulite (Nürnberger–Müller scale). A total of 56 female participants (aged 18–55 years) were enrolled and instructed to apply the product twice daily for eight weeks to the thighs and buttocks. Efficacy was assessed using instrumental skin profilometry (ANTERA® 3D CS imaging system), dermatological clinical grading, and patient self-assessment questionnaires. Quantitative analysis showed a mean reduction of 23.5% in skin indentation volume (p < 0.01) and a mean decrease of 1.1 points on the cellulite severity scale by week 8. Patient-reported outcomes revealed 85.7% satisfaction with visible results and 91% satisfaction with product texture and ease of application. Dermatological evaluation confirmed no clinically significant adverse reactions, and only 3.5% of participants reported mild and transient skin sensitivity. These findings suggest that this topical cream-gel formulation, when used in conjunction with manual massage, represents a well-tolerated and non-invasive option for the cosmetic improvement of moderate to severe cellulite.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
Ethnic Differences in Women’s Perception of Simulated Facial Aging over a 15-Year Horizon: A GAN-Based Model Approach
by
Frederic Flament, Panagiotis-Alexandros Bokaris, Julien Despois, Frederic Woodland, Adrien Chretien, Paul Tartrat and Guive Balooch
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040154 - 21 Jul 2025
Abstract
This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based
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This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based algorithm then aged the photographs by 10 (T10) and 15 (T15) years. A total of 246 women from China, France, and Thailand compared these images in pairs (T0 vs. T0 + 10 or T0 + 15) and provided feedback on their overall impressions, realism, and psychological acceptance via a questionnaire. Besides lower face ptosis (p < 0.01), the simulated images revealed that regardless of ethnicity, there were no significant differences in grading. Irrespective of ethnic background, 62–78% of overall panelists found the projections realistic and liked them, while 85–96% of panelists (Chinese and French) were willing to test them. A total of 47% of Thai panelists were reluctant to try, while 4–14% found it scary. This indicated some degree of cultural influence. This study confirms women’s acceptance of future facial appearance with some degree of cultural divergence. It also highlights a valid methodology to explore skin aging for a more realistic and personalized cosmetic improvement and innovation.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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