Cosmetics

21 pages, 4801 KiB

Open AccessArticle

AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA): Smart Technology for Robust Skin Color Classification and Segmentation

by Abderrachid Hamrani, Daniela Leizaola, Nikhil Kumar Reddy Vedere, Robert S. Kirsner, Kacie Kaile, Alexander Lee Trinidad and Anuradha Godavarty

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 218; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060218 - 10 Dec 2024

Abstract

Traditional methods for skin color classification, such as visual assessments and conventional image classification, face limitations in accuracy and consistency under varying conditions. To address this, we developed AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA), an unsupervised learning system designed to enhance dermatological diagnostics. AIDA applies [...] Read more.

Traditional methods for skin color classification, such as visual assessments and conventional image classification, face limitations in accuracy and consistency under varying conditions. To address this, we developed AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA), an unsupervised learning system designed to enhance dermatological diagnostics. AIDA applies clustering techniques to classify skin tones without relying on labeled data, evaluating over twelve models, including K-means, density-based, hierarchical, and fuzzy logic algorithms. The model’s key feature is its ability to mimic the process clinicians traditionally perform by visually matching the skin with the Fitzpatrick Skin Type (FST) palette scale but with enhanced precision and accuracy using Euclidean distance-based clustering techniques. AIDA demonstrated superior performance, achieving a 97% accuracy rate compared to 87% for a supervised convolutional neural network (CNN). The system also segments skin images into clusters based on color similarity, providing detailed spatial mapping aligned with dermatological standards. This segmentation reduces the uncertainty related to lighting conditions and other environmental factors, enhancing precision and consistency in skin color classification. This approach offers significant improvements in personalized dermatological care by reducing reliance on labeled data, improving diagnostic accuracy, and paving the way for future applications in diverse dermatological and cosmetic contexts. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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24 pages, 1729 KiB

Open AccessReview

Research Progress on Evaluating the Effectiveness and Safety of Transdermal Absorption of Cosmetics

by Meixuan Wang, Lu Zhang, Linxin Zheng, Jiayuan Shi, Hongxin Gao, Congfen He and Liya Song

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 217; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060217 - 9 Dec 2024

Abstract

This review systematically summarizes research progress in the evaluation of the effectiveness and safety of the transdermal absorption of cosmetics, focusing on the classification, applicability, and relevant regulations of different evaluation methods. Transdermal absorption refers to the process in which active ingredients enter [...] Read more.

This review systematically summarizes research progress in the evaluation of the effectiveness and safety of the transdermal absorption of cosmetics, focusing on the classification, applicability, and relevant regulations of different evaluation methods. Transdermal absorption refers to the process in which active ingredients enter the epidermis, dermis, and other parts of the skin through the skin barrier and exert their effects. The article first classifies the in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of transdermal absorption. It also provides a detailed overview of the regulations and standards for in vitro transdermal absorption, compares the standards of different institutions, and highlights the diffusion cell method, developed by scientists at Procter & Gamble, which is the mainstream method for in vitro testing. In addition, the paper summarizes the utilization of modern testing techniques such as high-throughput screening technology, mass spectrometry imaging, Raman spectroscopy, and confocal microscopy in the study of transdermal absorption and introduces the working principles of various instruments and their specific application cases in transdermal absorption studies. Full article

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19 pages, 1609 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation of Biological Sunscreen from Calendula arvensis Capitula Extracts: Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Surface Tension, and UVB Protection Properties Assessed

by Najlae El-Otmani, Ikrame Zeouk and Ahmed Zahidi

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 216; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060216 - 9 Dec 2024

Abstract

Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H [...] Read more.

Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H₂O, and H₂O) were explored in order to identify the most effective extract for use in a sunscreen formulation. Each extract was analyzed for its phenolic content, as well as antioxidant activities (assessed through DPPH, CAT, and FRAP assays). Enzyme inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase highlighted the low IC₅₀ values of the hydroethanolic extract. Furthermore, the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) against UVB radiation was measured using ultraviolet spectrophotometry. A phytochemical analysis showed phenolic levels between 8 and 27 mg GAE/g, flavonoid concentrations of 7–13 mg QE/g, and tannin levels of 1.15–1.68 mg/mL, alongside moderate antioxidant activity. The ethanol maceration extract reduced the interfacial tension to 2.15 mN/m in 600 s, outperforming the conventional emulsifier polysorbate 20. The sonicated hydroethanolic extract demonstrated remarkable SPF efficacy (SPF = 193.65 ± 0.02), far exceeding that of the standard zinc oxide (SPF = 11.88 ± 0.03). The proposed formulations meet the COSMOS standards, suggesting their potential for certification as biological products. Further clinical and in vivo studies are necessary to confirm their safety and commercial viability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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11 pages, 2136 KiB

Open AccessArticle

1,2-Dihydroxy-9H-Xanthen-9-One, a Multifunctional Nature-Inspired Active Ingredient

by Ana Jesus, Sara F. Vieira, Gonçalo Brites, Mylène Carrascal, Helena Ferreira, Nuno M. Neves, Honorina Cidade, Madalena Pinto, Emília Sousa, Isabel F. Almeida and Maria T. Cruz

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 215; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060215 - 8 Dec 2024

Abstract

Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have [...] Read more.

Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have demonstrated biologically notable properties. In particular, 1,2-dihydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one (1,2-DHX) has inhibitory activity against skin enzymes, and metal-chelating and radical-scavenging activities. Therefore, 1,2-DHX is an attractive molecule for cosmetic purposes. With this goal in mind, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic potentials of 1,2-DHX were investigated. 1,2-DHX demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting the synthesis of specific pro-inflammatory mediators, including interleukin-6 (IL-6) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), in human macrophages. This xanthone did not elicit sensitization reactions and did inhibit allergic reactions triggered by a strong skin allergen, suggesting its potential as an anti-allergic compound. 1,2-DHX also revealed mitochondrial antioxidant activity by mitigating rotenone-induced oxidative stress in macrophages by up to 40%. Overall, 1,2-DHX displayed a safety profile and noteworthy biological activities, highlighting its multifunctional profile as an active cosmetic ingredient with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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20 pages, 3488 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Potential of Tecoma stans (Linn.) Flower Extract as a Natural Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Agent for Skin Care Products

by Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Pimchanok Charoongchit and Ranit Charoenjittichai

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 214; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060214 - 8 Dec 2024

Abstract

Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its [...] Read more.

Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its inhibitory effect on skin degradation enzymes (collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase assay), have not been reported. This study aims to explore the effects of different solvent extractions on the total phenolic and total flavonoid contents, antioxidant and anti-aging activities, and cytotoxicity. The most suitable extract was selected for incorporation into an anti-aging product. T. stans flowers were extracted using hexane, ethyl acetate, absolute ethanol, and deionized water through maceration. The aqueous extract yielded the highest extraction efficiency (40.73%), followed by absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane. The phytochemical screening results revealed that all T. stans flower extracts contained phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, and alkaloids. Among the various solvents tested for T. stans flower extraction, absolute ethanol demonstrated the highest total phenolic content (24.10 ± 2.07 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g extract), followed by deionized water (20.83 ± 1.28 mg GAE/g extract). The highest total flavonoid content was observed in the ethyl acetate extract (205.11 ± 7.83 mg catechin equivalents (CE)/g extract), with ethanol showing a significantly lower concentration (140.67 ± 1.92 mg CE/g extract). In terms of antioxidant activity, the aqueous extract exhibited the most potent effects, with IC₅₀ values of 0.600 ± 0.005 mg/mL for the DPPH^• assay and 0.207 ± 0.001 mg/mL for the ABTS^•+ assay. For anti-aging assays, the absolute ethanolic extract demonstrated the highest enzyme inhibition activity at 1 mg/mL, with collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition rates of 89.49% ± 2.96%, 94.61% ± 2.33%, and 82.56% ± 2.27%, respectively. Moreover, at a concentration of 50 µg/mL, the absolute ethanolic extract exhibited lower cytotoxicity, with human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell viability of 78% ± 8.47%, which was significantly higher than that of the other extracts. An anti-aging gel containing 0.05% w/w of the ethanolic T. stans extract demonstrated physical and physicochemical stability during three months of storage at ambient temperatures, 4 °C, 45 °C, as well as after six cycles of heating/cooling tests. These findings suggest that the ethanolic extract of T. stans flower has potential as a safe and effective anti-aging agent for cosmeceutical products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 3630 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of the Effects of Age, Sex, and Dexpanthenol-Containing Skin Care on the Facial and Body Skin Microbiome

by Zainab Qaizar, Raffaella de Salvo, Gregor Bieri, Katrin Unbereit, Shannon Montgomery and Erwan Peltier

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 213; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060213 - 6 Dec 2024

Abstract

Given the pivotal role played by the microbiome in skin health, it is important to understand how its composition varies with age, sex, and body site and regular use of topical products. Four studies were carried out to determine the effects of long-term [...] Read more.

Given the pivotal role played by the microbiome in skin health, it is important to understand how its composition varies with age, sex, and body site and regular use of topical products. Four studies were carried out to determine the effects of long-term (4-week) use of different dexpanthenol-containing topical products on the skin microbiome of a varied population with cosmetically dry skin. The skin microbiome composition was assessed before and after product usage. No significant changes in microbiome richness or diversity were found for the individual test products; however, a meta-analysis of the combined dataset did show changes in microbiome composition as a function of the subject’s sex, age, and body site. The work presented here demonstrates how the use of carefully formulated topical products on skin, when used in a way that is representative of real-life usage conditions, can respect the microbial diversity present on skin across a widely varied study population. Full article

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13 pages, 1190 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Analysis with Mechanical Measurements

by Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Renato Grimaldi, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 212; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060212 - 5 Dec 2024

Abstract

The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its [...] Read more.

The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, renowned for their strengthening properties, were evaluated regarding (I) their ability to penetrate both virgin and bleached textured hair using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) time-of-flight (TOF) analysis, and (II) their effects by way of tensile and fatigue tests. The MALDI–TOF results revealed groups of oil molecules in the cortical region of the bleached textured hair. The tensile test results, in turn, showed that the oil treatments were unable to alter the mechanical properties of the hair. Conversely, the fatigue test showed an increase in resistance in the virgin hair, most likely attributed to a lubrication effect in the outermost portions of the cortex and cuticles. In the bleached hair, a reduction in resistance was noted following the treatment with the oils. Comparative analysis with a previous study on straight hair by our group suggests that external molecules diffuse more homogeneously in straight hair than in textured hair. The unique cortical structure of textured hair creates two areas with distinct diffusion zones, resulting in the irregular distribution of external materials and different effects compared to straight hair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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3 pages, 163 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics

by Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 211; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060211 - 4 Dec 2024

Abstract

With the growing demand for products that are gentle on the skin and manufactured by eco-friendly means, the field of cosmetics is witnessing a remarkable shift toward natural ingredients [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

27 pages, 3129 KiB

Open AccessReview

Essential Oils as Dermocosmetic Agents, Their Mechanism of Action and Nanolipidic Formulations for Maximized Skincare

by Shamama Javed, Bharti Mangla, Ahmad Salawi, Muhammad H. Sultan, Yosif Almoshari and Waquar Ahsan

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 210; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060210 - 2 Dec 2024

Abstract

Essential oils (EOs) are known for their diverse bioactivities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, skin-barrier repairing and anticancer, and therefore, hold profound potential to be used in cosmetic and skincare products. Owing to these properties, EOs have long been utilized to address [...] Read more.

Essential oils (EOs) are known for their diverse bioactivities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, skin-barrier repairing and anticancer, and therefore, hold profound potential to be used in cosmetic and skincare products. Owing to these properties, EOs have long been utilized to address a range of dermatological issues, from acne and inflammation to aging and dryness. However, problems associated with EOs beset their practical applications, which include high volatility, oxidation, hydrophobic nature, low bioavailability, skin irritation, chemical transformation and poor stability in air and light. A prospective of nanolipidic formulations, including the nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) system for improved skin delivery of these EOs highlights the possibility of their use in topical applications, which offer several advantages such as improved bioavailability and stability, lower toxicity and higher drug content. These nanoformulations protect the EOs from environmental degradation and improve their penetration into deeper skin layers, leading to prolonged therapeutic benefits. The delivery of bioactive agents using a conventional topical preparation exhibits low penetration, frequent applications, poor adherence and prolonged therapy duration, whereas the novel delivery system exhibits improved stability of the drug, enhanced skin penetration, enhanced retention and better therapeutic efficacy. This review provides a comprehensive compendium of information on EOs, which are widely used in skincare, along with their nanolipidic formulations for maximized skincare uses. The mechanism of action of EOs as skin bioactive agents, challenges associated with their use, advances in nanolipidic formulations and their market value as cosmetic skincare products are also explored. Full article

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22 pages, 1203 KiB

Open AccessReview

Aberrances of the Wound Healing Process: A Review

by Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino, Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez and Stefano Bacci

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 209; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060209 - 28 Nov 2024

Abstract

Wound healing is a complex biological process that can lead to chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars when disrupted. Chronic wounds result from a prolonged inflammatory phase and impaired re-epithelialization. Keloids are characterized by excessive collagen deposition beyond the original wound boundaries, driven [...] Read more.

Wound healing is a complex biological process that can lead to chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars when disrupted. Chronic wounds result from a prolonged inflammatory phase and impaired re-epithelialization. Keloids are characterized by excessive collagen deposition beyond the original wound boundaries, driven by persistent inflammation and fibroblast hyperactivity. Hypertrophic scars, on the other hand, are confined to the wound edges and are caused by an imbalance in collagen synthesis and degradation, typically resolving over time. The therapeutic approach to wound healing impairment involves a range of strategies, including non-invasive (which focus on supporting the natural healing process), minimally invasive, and aggressive interventions (such as surgical approach, often reserved for severe or refractory cases). Emerging therapies, including stem cell treatments and botulinum toxin injections, offer new hope for improving outcomes in patients with wound healing impairments. This review highlights the distinct mechanisms underlying chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars and discusses their respective therapeutic approaches, focusing on both established and emerging therapies. Understanding these mechanisms is crucial for optimizing treatment strategies and improving patient outcomes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 511 KiB

Open AccessReview

Seborrheic Dermatitis: From Microbiome and Skin Barrier Involvement to Emerging Approaches in Dermocosmetic Treatment

by Giulia Galizia, Anna Belloni Fortina and Alessandra Semenzato

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 208; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060208 - 28 Nov 2024

Abstract

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that primarily affects sebaceous-rich areas such as the scalp, face, and upper trunk. While the precise etiology remains multifactorial, the role of the skin microbiome, particularly the proliferation of Malassezia species, and alterations in [...] Read more.

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that primarily affects sebaceous-rich areas such as the scalp, face, and upper trunk. While the precise etiology remains multifactorial, the role of the skin microbiome, particularly the proliferation of Malassezia species, and alterations in the skin barrier function are critical in its pathogenesis. Disruption of the skin barrier, characterized by increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced production of epidermal lipids, creates a favorable environment for microbial overgrowth and inflammation. Recent insights highlight the interplay between the impaired barrier function, immune responses, and the skin microbiome in perpetuating the disease. Additionally, novel dermocosmetic approaches are emerging that target these underlying mechanisms, offering promising therapeutic avenues. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the involvement of skin microbiome and barrier dysfunction in seborrheic dermatitis and discusses the potential of advanced dermocosmetic treatments aimed at restoring skin homeostasis and preventing disease recurrence. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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12 pages, 258 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical and Psychological Aspects of Piercing: A Cross-Sectional Study with Special Attention to Body Dysmorphic Disorder Symptoms, Appearance Anxiety, Body Image Perception and Self-Esteem

by Justyna Putek and Jacek C. Szepietowski

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 207; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060207 - 28 Nov 2024

Abstract

The aim of this study was to measure the level of self-esteem among individuals with piercings, evaluate body image perception, and screen the study group for body dysmorphic disorder symptoms. Two hundred and six individuals from Poland completed the Appearance Anxiety Inventory (AAI), [...] Read more.

The aim of this study was to measure the level of self-esteem among individuals with piercings, evaluate body image perception, and screen the study group for body dysmorphic disorder symptoms. Two hundred and six individuals from Poland completed the Appearance Anxiety Inventory (AAI), Body Dysmorphic Disorder Questionnaire-Dermatology Version (BDDQ-DV), Functionality Appreciation Scale (FAS), and Rosenberg Self Esteem Scale (RSES). Differences between groups were determined using a two-sample t-test, post-hoc chi-square test with Bonferroni’s adjustment, the Kruskal–Wallis test, and the Mann–Whitney test. One hundred ninety-six (95.1%) respondents were females, and 10 (4.9%) were males, aged from 15 to 48 years (mean age ± SD = 23.1 ± 6.4 years). Of the respondents, 25.7% screened positive for BDD symptoms according to the AAI and 29.1% screened positive according to the BDDQ-DV. According to the FAS, significantly lower body image was presented by individuals with psychiatric treatment (3.8 ± 0.9 vs. 4.1 ± 0.7, p < 0.05) and by respondents who screened positive for BDD symptoms. Significantly lower self-esteem was reported in individuals with psychiatric comorbidities, psychiatric treatment, and in the BDD-groups according to the RSES (AAI: 24.0 ± 5.6 vs. 30.9 ± 6.0; p < 0.001; BDDQ-DV: 24.0 ± 5.8 vs. 31.3 ± 3.7; p < 0.001). In conclusion, individuals with piercings should be regarded as a group with an increased risk for BDD symptoms. Full article

8 pages, 219 KiB

Open AccessReview

Emerging and Pioneering AI Technologies in Aesthetic Dermatology: Sketching a Path Toward Personalized, Predictive, and Proactive Care

by Diala Haykal

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 206; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060206 - 26 Nov 2024

Abstract

Objectives: Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming aesthetic dermatology, introducing new opportunities for personalized, predictive, and adaptive approaches in skin diagnostics, treatment planning, and patient management. This review examines AI’s evolving role in enhancing diagnostic precision, individualizing treatments, and supporting dynamic patient care, with [...] Read more.

Objectives: Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming aesthetic dermatology, introducing new opportunities for personalized, predictive, and adaptive approaches in skin diagnostics, treatment planning, and patient management. This review examines AI’s evolving role in enhancing diagnostic precision, individualizing treatments, and supporting dynamic patient care, with a focus on practical implementation in clinical settings. Results: This piece highlights how AI-based imaging and predictive tools enable more precise diagnostics and tailored treatment protocols, leading to improved patient outcomes and satisfaction. Some of the key benefits of AI in aesthetic dermatology include the ability to detect subtle skin changes, simulate treatment outcomes, and adjust interventions in real time. However, this manuscript also addresses significant challenges that practitioners face, such as technical constraints, data privacy concerns, algorithmic biases, and financial barriers, which impact the accessibility and efficacy of AI across diverse patient populations. Conclusions: While AI holds significant potential to enhance aesthetic dermatology, its responsible integration requires addressing these challenges through clinician training, ethical guidelines, and robust data security measures. Effective use of AI will depend on collaboration between technology developers, clinicians, and regulatory bodies. Perspectives: Looking forward, the development of diverse, inclusive datasets and transparent, patient-centered AI models will be essential to ensure that AI’s benefits reach all patients equitably and safely. By prioritizing these factors, AI-driven technologies would become a reliable, accessible, and transformative element of aesthetic dermatology practice. Full article

13 pages, 3861 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Research on the Correlation Between Skin Elasticity Evaluation Parameters and Age

by Dandan Chen, Shipeng Yin, Xuelian Lu, Haokun Fu, Hongqi Gao and Suning Zhang

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060205 - 26 Nov 2024

Abstract

This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to [...] Read more.

This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to 70. Key Results: The findings indicate that relaxation phase parameters, particularly biological elasticity (R7), exhibited the strongest negative correlation with age (r = −0.62), signifying a notable decline in biological elasticity as women age. In contrast, maximum deformation during the first cycle (R0) and the total area under the upper curve after 10 cycles of deformation (F4) also showed significant negative correlations with age (r = −0.47, r = −0.48), suggesting that younger skin typically presents higher values. These correlations raise questions regarding practical applications, as the presence of moisturizers and emollients may alter the stratum corneum’s properties, thus impacting these measurements. Additionally, the ratio of delayed deformation to instantaneous deformation (R6) demonstrated a positive correlation with age (r = 0.49), indicating its potential as a marker for skin aging. Conclusions: This study highlights the critical role of relaxation phase parameters in accurately reflecting skin elasticity changes associated with aging. The results offer valuable insights for evaluating cosmetic efficacy, reinforcing the need for a nuanced understanding of how various parameters interact. These findings contribute to the ongoing development of more effective anti-aging treatments and products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods)

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14 pages, 5483 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential of Deer Placenta Extract in Hair Cell Regeneration and Its Nanoniosome-Microspicule Gel as a Transfollicular Delivery System

by Worranan Rangsimawong, Sureewan Duangjit, Phaijit Sritananuwat, Tanasait Ngawhirunpat and Praneet Opanasopit

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 204; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060204 - 26 Nov 2024

Abstract

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to [...] Read more.

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to develop a nanoniosome (NS) and microspicule (MS) formulation as a promising transfollicular delivery system. Methods: The bioactivity of DPE was assessed in human follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells, including cells damaged by chemotherapy. The NS-MS formulation was designed to deliver biomacromolecules from DPE into skin and hair follicles. Results: DPE at 2000 µg/mL exhibited no cytotoxicity and significantly enhanced proliferation in both normal and cisplatin-treated HFDP cells. The DPE-loaded NSs displayed nanovesicles with a uniform size distribution and a negative surface charge. When incorporated into the MS gel, NS-MS demonstrated a synergistic effect, significantly enhancing the transdermal and transfollicular delivery of macromolecular protein into the skin layers and hair follicles. Conclusions: DPE promoted hair cell proliferation and facilitated the recovery of hair cells damaged by chemotherapy, especially when formulated into the NS-MS system, which effectively delivered bioactive macromolecules to the target site. This suggests its potential role in promoting hair regrowth. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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21 pages, 11452 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Retinol and Hydroxyasiaticoside Synergistically Relieve Histamine-Induced Atopic Dermatitis Activity by Repressing TRPV1, L1R1, and CD130 Targets

by Qin Liu, Peng Shu, Qingle Song, Zhenhai Huang, Jiyu Weng, Lanyue Zhang, Yuan Wang and Qingqing Liu

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 203; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060203 - 25 Nov 2024

Abstract

Background: Retinol, an important bioactive substance with multiple physiological functions such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase activity, alleviating oxidative stress, regulating gene expression, and promoting epidermal cell proliferation, has a significant effect on skin damage recovery. Hydroxyasiaticoside, a triterpenoid saponin derived [...] Read more.

Background: Retinol, an important bioactive substance with multiple physiological functions such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase activity, alleviating oxidative stress, regulating gene expression, and promoting epidermal cell proliferation, has a significant effect on skin damage recovery. Hydroxyasiaticoside, a triterpenoid saponin derived from Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., is closely related to the secretion of collagen types I and III, and possesses multiple biological activities, including moisturizing, antioxidants, anti-apoptosis, neuroprotection, anti-inflammation, and the promotion of wound healing. It plays a particularly prominent role in reducing oxidative stress in wounds and inducing vasodilatation. Objective: The aim of this study was to investigate the therapeutic efficacy of retinol combined with hydroxyasiaticoside in histamine-induced atopic dermatitis. Materials and Methods: The experiment was carried out using three different concentrations of a retinol and hydroxyasiaticoside mixed solution: low, medium, and high concentrations. After inducing atopic dermatitis in mice through histamine administration, these solutions were applied to the skin surface of the mice, and a comparative analysis was conducted with both the control group and the model group. The effect of combination therapy on atopic dermatitis was evaluated through histopathology, immunohistochemistry, and transcriptomic analysis. Results: The combination of retinol and hydroxyasiaticoside significantly attenuated histamine-induced scratching behaviors, alleviated the phenomenon of epidermal hyperplasia, and effectively reduced the proliferation, infiltration, and degranulation of mast cells. In addition, the combination inhibited the expression of relevant pro-inflammatory cytokines. Quantitative RNA-seq analysis revealed that the gene expression patterns were similar in different concentration groups. However, the medium dose group may be able to regulate skin inflammation by regulating upstream genes to inhibit autophagy-related pathways. Further GO analysis revealed that the low-dose group mainly affected metabolism-related genes, the medium-dose group affected more genes related to body systems, and the high-dose group was dominated by genes related to human diseases. Full article

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21 pages, 2216 KiB

Open AccessReview

Peloids in Skin Care and Cosmeceuticals

by M. Lourdes Mourelle, Carmen P. Gómez and José L. Legido

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 202; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060202 - 22 Nov 2024

Abstract

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place [...] Read more.

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place where the thermal water emerges or on the shores of the sea or salt lake, or they are prepared ad hoc from high-quality materials, such as clays or peat. Peloids are also used as cosmeceuticals in skin care to treat different skin disorders and/or conditions, such as psoriasis, eczema, and other scaly disorders, sensitive skin, and acne. This review reports all available scientific data concerning the effects and specific activities of peloids in skin care and cosmeceuticals, providing a better understanding of the clinical and cosmetic benefits. Finally, the safety and regulation of peloids are also discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 1262 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Optimizing Antioxidant and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activities of Mixed Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa Extracts for Cosmetic Application

by Natthanan Phupaisan, Chadarat Ampasavate, Surapol Natakankitkul and Kanokwan Kiattisin

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 201; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060201 - 21 Nov 2024

Abstract

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the [...] Read more.

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts to maximize their combined antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase activities. A two-level full factorial design was used to identify the optimal concentration ratios of the mixed extracts. The results indicated that all extracts influenced antioxidant activity, with the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 0.5:6:2 mg/mL, respectively. In addition, all factors affected hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition, with the optimal proportions for C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 10:10:5 mg/mL to achieve the best inhibition. In a photostability study on individual extracts, mixed extracts, and mixed extracts combined with sodium metabisulfite and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, it was observed that preparing the mixed extracts and adding an antioxidant and a sunscreen agent helped reduce the photodegradation of phenolic compounds in the mixed extracts. Consequently, the stabilized mixed extracts could serve as raw materials in cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Active Substances and Bioavailability in Cosmetics)

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22 pages, 11783 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Willaertia Lysate: A Hydrobiome-Biosourced Ingredient with Multi-Site Antioxidative and Antiaging Properties

by Morgan Dos Santos, Julie Rorteau, Kilian Laho, Hanan Osman-Ponchet, Manon Barthe, Benjamin Quelard, Antoine Carlino, Adeline Saha and Sandrine Troussieux

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 200; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060200 - 21 Nov 2024

Abstract

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight [...] Read more.

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight the signs of aging, a comprehensive program was implemented in this study to evaluate the efficacy of an innovative ingredient, Willaertia lysate, through a multi-scale approach encompassing cellular and advanced 3D skin models. The results show that Willaertia lysate, initially sourced from French Alps thermal spring waters, is able to (i) promote cell migration; (ii) improve the quality and abundance of the extracellular matrix in aged skins and in young skins exposed to UV radiation to a similar level to that in unexposed young skins; (iii) decrease tyrosinase activity and melanin content; and (iv) reduce oxidative stress after UV exposure by decreasing exposome markers such as protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation expression. This complete set of coherent results demonstrates the global protective efficacy of Willaertia lysate against the effects of photoaging. This study is the first to report the use of a protozoan lysate as a natural and biosourced postbiotic active ingredient in the fields of cosmetics and dermocosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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