Cosmetics

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial design to achieve suitable mechanical strength and rapid dissolution. The optimized mask, containing liposomal KA (1% w/v) and licochalcone A (0.025% w/v), was evaluated for antioxidant activity, ex vivo skin deposition, and short-term efficacy (Approval from the Institutional Review Board of Silpakorn University, Thailand; Ethics Approval No. REC 67.1001-146-7726/COA 68.0320-013 Date of registration: 20 March 2025). The optimized liposomes exhibited a mean particle size of 66–72 nm, entrapment efficiency above 65%, and a zeta potential of −12.5 mV (licochalcone A) and −1.67 mV (KA). Liposomal licochalcone A and KA showed potent antioxidant activity compared to their native forms. The optimized film dissolved within approximately 15 min on moist skin and showed favorable handling properties. Ex vivo studies revealed significantly higher skin deposition of both KA and licochalcone A from the liposomal mask compared with free and liposomal dispersions (p < 0.05). In a 7-day clinical evaluation, the mask significantly improved skin hydration and reduced melanin index (p < 0.05). No irritation or adverse reactions were observed, and user satisfaction was high. This liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach to enhancing skin brightness and hydration, supporting its potential as a sustainable cosmeceutical innovation.

Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine has been associated with a gradual shift toward approaches that aim to restore follicular function and architecture. Stem cell-derived conditioned media and exosomes have shown the ability to activate Wnt/β-catenin signaling, enhance angiogenesis, modulate inflammation, and promote dermal papilla cell survival, resulting in improved hair density and shaft thickness with favorable safety profiles. Autologous cell-based therapies, including adipose-derived stem cells and dermal sheath cup cells, have demonstrated the potential to rescue miniaturized follicles, although durability and standardization remain challenges. Adjunctive interventions such as microneedling and platelet-rich plasma (PRP) further augment follicular regeneration by inducing controlled micro-injury and releasing growth and neurotrophic factors. In parallel, machine learning-based diagnostic tools and deep hair phenotyping offer improved severity scoring, treatment monitoring, and personalized therapeutic planning, while robotic Follicular Unit Excision (FUE) platforms enhance surgical precision and graft preservation. Advances in tissue engineering and 3D follicle organoid culture suggest progress toward producing transplantable follicle units, though large-scale clinical translation is still in early development. Collectively, these emerging biological and technological strategies indicate movement beyond symptomatic management toward more targeted, multimodal approaches. Future progress will depend on standardized protocols, regulatory clarity, and long-term clinical trials to define which regenerative approaches can reliably achieve sustainable follicle renewal in routine cosmetic dermatology practice.

This study evaluated the thermal properties, crystallinity, particle size, morphology, and in vivo local inflammation and persistence of two poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) injectable implants, Sculptra^® (PLLA-SCA) and GANA V^® (PLLA-GA). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA underwent differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray powder diffraction to evaluate their thermal properties and degree of crystallinity. X-ray powder diffraction spectra displayed a sharper, more intense peak for PLLA-GA than PLLA-SCA, with smaller peaks on either side of the main peak of PLLA-GA but not PLLA-SCA. Differential scanning calorimetry thermograms indicated three thermal events for both PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA. For PLLA-SCA, the first two events occurred between 65 °C and 90 °C, and the third event occurred at 165 °C. For PLLA-GA all three events occurred between 156 °C and 169 °C. Heating samples to 120 °C and cooling to room temperature prior to differential scanning calorimetry resulted in no thermal events being observed between 65–90 °C with either product, while three events were observed with PLLA-GA and one event with PLLA-SCA between 156 °C and 169 °C. The median volume distribution diameter was 46.4 µm for PLLA-SCA and 31.7 µm for PLLA-GA. Scanning electron microscopy showed PLLA-GA particles were irregular in shape, had no sharp edges and had a wrinkled and crimped surface, while PLLA-SCA particles displayed plate-like shapes and had smoother surfaces. In vivo inflammatory reactivity scores indicated a slight reaction for PLLA-SCA at all time points (3.7 ± 1.1, 6.1 ± 1.6, 5.7 ± 1.2 and 6.2 ± 1.2 at 2, 12, 26 and 52 weeks, respectively), while for PLLA-GA, a moderate reaction was observed at 12 and 26 weeks (2.9 ± 1.5, 10.1 ± 1.0, 9.4 ± 0.7 and 7.1 ± 1.3 at 2, 12, 26 and 52 weeks, respectively). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA had similar persistence scores at 2, 12 and 26 weeks, while at 52 weeks the score was markedly higher for PLLA-SCA versus PLLA-GA (1.9 ± 0.2 versus 0.7 ± 0.2). In conclusion, PLLA-SCA is more amorphous than PLLA-GA. The single melting point of PLLA-SCA contrasts with the broader spectrum of melting points for PLLA-GA suggests a more homogenous formulation of PLLA-SCA. This, and its less crystalline structure, result in the slower degradation rate and more sustained biological response of PLLA-SCA compared with PLLA-GA. The physiochemical properties of PLLAs affect the biological response in clinical practice and should be taken into consideration when selecting a PLLA treatment for aesthetic use.