Cosmetics — Open Access Journal

The main goal of this work was the use of the powerful solid-phase microextraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (SPME-GC-MS) technique to unequivocally identify microbial volatile organic compounds (MVOCs) derived from the enzymatic activity produced during metabolic processes using analytical profile index (API) biochemical tests. Three bacteria were selected for this study: Escherichia coli, Proteus mirabilis, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. They were inoculated and incubated to both API components and real cosmetics, as well as to a mixture of them. Specific MVOCs were successfully identified as biomarkers for each one of the studied microorganisms: Indole and 2-nitrophenol as Escherichia coli markers, 2-undecanone and phenylethyl alcohol as Proteus mirabilis-specific markers, and 1-undecene and 2′-aminoacetophenone as Pseudomonas aeruginosa ones. In addition, a high number of MVOCs were identified as general markers of bacterial presence. The results revealed that the MVOCs’ formation is highly subtract dependent. Therefore, the ultimate and most challenging objective is to establish a relationship between the identified MVOCs and the original compound present in the substrate. This work establishes the design and development of this original approach, and its practical application to the control of microbial contamination in real cosmetic samples. Full article

This letter is intended to clarify the clinical effectiveness of neuropeptide substance P (SP) in reducing age-related skin wrinkling. This is the first clinical study to evaluate the efficacy of the topical application of SP on wrinkle reduction. For the clinical study, we tested the efficacy of a stable SP formulation known as SP-based hydrogel against skin aging in study participants. We found that this SP-based hydrogel reduced skin aging based on changes observed in several cutaneous parameters. Full article

Inonotus obliquus, which is parasitic on birch and other trees, is a fungus in the family Hymenochaetaceae. In this study, we investigated whether Inonotus obliquus extracts used in traditional medicine were decreased in the expression of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) in the normal human dermal fibroblasts. As shown in our results, extracts of Inonotus obliquus decreased MMP1 expression in oxidative stress-exposed normal human dermal fibroblasts. Additionally, Inonotus obliquus extracts decreased AP-1 transcriptional activity and phospho-JNK in oxidative stress-exposed normal human dermal fibroblasts. Oxidative stress mediated the elevation of MMP1 mRNA expression and was well regulated by the JNK-AP-1 axis. Therefore, the results suggest that Inonotus obliquus extracts decreased MMP1 mRNA expression by regulating JNK-AP-1 axis. Additionally, Inonotus obliquus extracts have the potential to reduce collagen destruction and the formation of wrinkles and to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Full article

In the pre-formulation stages of cosmetic products, in vitro permeability tests correspond to an important alternative for making better decisions regarding the stability, performance and biocompatibility of these products. Moreover, these tests allow us to establish whether a cosmetic ingredient can penetrate the different layers of the skin, which is essential in these products. This study was focused on the extraction, characterization and preservation of rabbit ear membranes and their subsequent performance comparison against two synthetic membranes (cellulose and Strat-M^TM). For this, the rabbit ear stratum corneum was isolated and characterized histologically, using the Hematoxylin and Eosin (HE) staining protocol along with light microscopy and image analysis. Then, the Frank diffusion cell (FC) model was employed to evaluate and compare the permeability of the model compound Naproxen sodium (NPX) between the three membrane systems. The results show that NPX permeability is strongly affected by the type of membrane, and the implementation of rabbit ear membranes shows high reproducibility, demonstrating that this model could be implemented during pre-formulation studies of cosmetic products. Full article

The skin microbiome is in a very close mutualistic relationship with skin cells, influencing their physiology and immunology and participating in many dermatological conditions. Today, there is much interest in cosmetic ingredients that may promote a healthy microbiome, especially postbiotics, mainly derived from fermented products. In the present work, we studied the effects on skin microbiota of new patented natural oils obtained by unique fermentation technology in vivo. Three fermented oils were evaluated: F-Shiunko (FS), F-Artemisia^® (FA) and F-Glycyrrhiza^® (FG). The active components were included as single active component or in combination (FSAG) in an emulsion system. A total of 20 healthy women were recruited, and skin microbiota from cheek were analyzed by mean of swab sampling at T0 and T1 (after 4 weeks of a one-day treatment). 16S sequencing revealed that the treatment with fermented oils improved microbiome composition and alpha-diversity. It was shown that higher biodiversity reflects in a healthier microbial ecosystem since microbial diversity decreases in the presence of a disease or due to aging. The treatment also resulted in a more “beneficial” and “younger” microbial community since a significant decrease in Proteobacteria and the increase in Staphylococcus were reported after the treatment with fermented oils. Full article

Biotechnology uses microorganisms and/or enzymes to obtain specific products through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques. Examples of these products are active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, and some enzymes, which are used in skin anti-aging products. In addition, certain growth factors, algae, stem cells, and peptides have been included in cosmetics and aesthetic medicines. Thus, biotechnology, cosmetics and aesthetic medicines are now closely linked, through the production of high-quality active ingredients, which are more effective and safer. This work describes the most used active ingredients that are produced from biotechnological processes. Although there are a vast number of active ingredients, the number of biotechnological active ingredients reported in the literature is not significantly high. Full article

The reliability of the challenge test depends, among other parameters, on the spatial distribution of microorganisms in the matrix. The present study aims to quickly identify factors that are susceptible to impair a uniform distribution of inoculated bacteria in cosmetic matrices in this context. We used mosaic confocal laser scanning microscopy (M-CLSM) to obtain rapid assessment of the impact of the composition and viscosity of cosmetic matrices on S. aureus spatial distribution. Several models of cosmetic matrices were formulated with different concentrations of two thickeners and were inoculated with three S. aureus strains having different levels of hydrophobicity. The spatial distribution of S. aureus in each matrix was evaluated according to the frequency distribution of the fluorescence values of at least 1350 CLSM images. We showed that, whatever the thickener used, an increasingly concentration of thickener results in increasingly bacterial clustered distribution. Moreover, higher bacterial hydrophobicity also resulted in a more clustered spatial distribution. In conclusion, CLSM-based method allows a rapid characterization of bacterial spatial distribution in complex emulsified systems. Both matrix viscosity and bacterial surface hydrophobicity affect the bacterial spatial distribution which can have an impact on the reliability of bacterial enumeration during challenge test. Full article

Candida albicans is an opportunistic pathogen that often causes skin infections such as oral thrush, nail fungus, athlete’s foot, and diaper rash. Under particular conditions, C. albicans alters the natural balance of the host microbiota, and as a result, the skin or its accessory structures lose their function and appearance. Conventional antimycotic drugs are highly toxic to host tissues, and long-lasting drug administration induces the arising of resistant strains that make the antimycotic therapy ineffective. Among new antimicrobial approaches to combine with traditional drugs, light-based techniques are very promising. In this study, a panel of dyes was considered for photodynamic therapy (PDT) applications to control the growth of the model strain C. albicans ATCC 14053. The chosen photosensitizers (PSs) belong to the family of synthetic porphyrins, and in particular, they are diaryl-porphyrins. Among these, two monocationic PSs were shown to be particularly efficient in killing C. albicans upon irradiation with light at 410 nm, in a light-dose-dependent manner. The elicited photo-oxidative stress induced the loss of the internal cellular architecture and death. The photodynamic treatment was also successful in inhibiting the biofilm formation of clinical C. albicans strains. In conclusion, this study supports the great potential of diaryl-porphyrins in antimicrobial PDT to control the growth of yeasts on body tissues easily reachable by light sources, such as skin and oral cavity. Full article

Increasing evidence suggests that environmental stress, such as UV radiation, generates reactive oxygen and nitrogen species in skin cells, leading to histochemical changes including skin disorders and aging, hyper pigmentation, and increased formation of wrinkles. Besides the defensive system in skin composed of vitamins and intrinsic antioxidant enzymes, topical and skin conditioning products have been used commonly to eradicate or eliminate these skin ailments. Among various ingredients providing nourishing and moisturizing effect in skin, antioxidants have been reported to be a key ingredient to counteract skin aging processes and skin disorders. Derived from a patented extraction process, a polyphenol rich sugarcane concentrate (Officinol™) becomes the focus of this study due to its rich content of polyphenols known to be strong antioxidants. In this work, we carried out a series of cell-based in vitro studies to examine the use of Officinol™ in anti-aging and skin care functions. Our studies show that Officinol™ activated telomerase, a major biomarker that have been reported to be associated with slowed cellular aging process. When skin cells were under environmental stress such as UV radiation, Officinol™ inhibited MMP-1, an interstitial collagenase in skin cells, and deterred the breakdown of collagen that provides supple texture in skin. Officinol™ also inhibited cellular expression of melanin pigmentation and tyrosinase activity, two major biomarkers causing skin pigmentation and aging spots, and inhibited elastase, an enzyme that facilities the reduction of skin elasticity. At the end of the investigation, we carried out a 10-person, pilot study to examine the effect of Officinol™ on skin lightening and fine line and wrinkle reduction in human skin. The combination of the in vitro and the human pre-study indicates that Officinol™ could provide significant preventative and protective functions including antioxidant, anti-aging, wrinkle reduction, and skin brightening for human skin suffering from aging and other stress. These findings are to be confirmed with a larger scale clinical study at a later stage. Full article

Retinol is a compound used in many skin care formulations to act against skin conditions like acne, wrinkles, psoriasis, and ichthyosis. While retinol is used as an active ingredient, its efficacy is limited by an extreme sensitivity to light and temperature. Retinol can also generate toxicity at high concentrations. Microencapsulation is an alternative method to help overcome these issues. In this study, we develop a new encapsulation of retinol by solvent evaporation using a cationic polymer. We show that our particles have a narrow size distribution (350 nm), can encapsulate retinol with high efficiency, and protect it from oxidation for at least eight weeks. Finally, to demonstrate that the release of retinol from the particles can be controlled, we performed a kinetic study and showed that the particle releases the drug during 18 h. Full article

Composite chitosan fibers filled with chitin nanofibrils (CNF) were obtained by the wet spinning method. The paper discusses the mechanical properties of such type fibers and their hemocompatibility, as well as the possibility of optimizing these properties by adding chitin nanofibrils. It was shown that low CNF concentration (about 0.5%) leads to an increase in fiber tensile strength due to the additional orientation of chitosan macromolecules. At the same time, with an increase in the content of CNF, the stability of the mechanical properties of composite fibers in a humid medium increases. All chitosan fibers, except 0.5% CNF, showed good hemocompatibility, even on prolonged contact with human blood. The addition of chitin nanofibers leads to decrease in hemoglobin molecules sorption due to the decline in optical density at wavelengths of 414 nm and 540 nm. Nevertheless, the hemolysis of fibers was comparable or even lesser that carbon hemosorbent, which is actively used in clinical practice. Full article

With the increasing demand for natural and safe products in cosmetics, algae with their diverse and valuable bioactive compounds are gaining vital importance. Until now, cosmetics have focused mainly on the use of freshwater and marine algae. However, algae are not restricted to aquatic habitats. They are found in essentially every type of aeroterrestrial and extreme environment on the Earth. There, they have to cope with harsh ecological conditions and have developed special strategies to thrive in these inimical habitats. Although not thoroughly studied, their adaptations include protective biochemical compounds which can find their application or are already used in the field of cosmetics. With proper cultivation techniques, algae from these habitats can provide novel sources of high-value functional products for the cosmetics industry, which have the advantage of being obtained in eco-friendly and cost-effective processes. However, it has to be considered that a few aeroterrestrial and extremophilic algae can be toxin producers, and in order to ensure conformity to the safe quality standards, all new ingredients must be properly tested. The aim of the present review is to unveil the hidden and underestimated potential of the enigmatic algae of aeroterrestrial and extreme habitats for the rapidly developing modern cosmetic industries. Full article

Most of the currently used products for repairing and conditioning hair rely on the deposition of complex formulations, based on mixtures involving macromolecules and surfactants, onto the surface of hair fibers. This leads to the partial covering of the damaged areas appearing in the outermost region of capillary fibers, which enables the decrease of the friction between fibers, improving their manageability and hydration. The optimization of shampoo and conditioner formulations necessitates a careful examination of the different physicochemical parameters related to the conditioning mechanism, e.g., the thickness of the deposits, its water content, topography or frictional properties. This review discusses different physicochemical aspects which impact the understanding of the most fundamental bases of the conditioning process. Full article

The rate of head louse infestations is increasing. Most of the neurotoxic treatments are not reliably ovicidal and are faced with genetic resistance. The treatments based on a mechanical mode of action show no sufficient efficacy, transferring the chances of a cure on a tedious combing or leaving the hair fatty. This double-blinded, randomized, controlled, superiority trial evaluates the efficacy and safety of a novel mixture made of semi-crystalline polymers and plant extracts. Forty-five participants received a single application of either 1% Permethrin lotion or the novel lotion, applied for 15 minutes. Untreated and treated nits were collected and placed in an incubator during 10 days. The worst case intent-to-treat analysis found the novel lotion significantly more effective than 1% Permethrin, with 21/22 (95.5%) participants cured and 9/23 (39.1%), respectively (p < 0.0001). Rate of viable nymphs was 0.5 (2.1) for the new lotion and 40.8 (20.4) for the 1% Permethrin. The new lotion cures head louse infestations, offering an effective alternative treatment, with a high efficacy for inhibiting the hatching of eggs. Its physical actions on lice and their eggs should not be affected by resistance to neurotoxic insecticides. Full article

The cosmetics industry has boomed in recent years as one of the markets that holds enormous growth potential. Among several industrial sectors, the cosmetics industry has considered nanotechnology-based principles and implemented in product management practices. Out of 1000 registered products available on the global market, up to 13% were referred to as products for cosmetic use. A large number of nanoscale materials with unique physicochemical properties are currently being used in the cosmetics formulations or recommended for future use as nano-systems or novel nanocarriers to encapsulate active ingredients for their efficient delivery through the skin barriers. These nano-systems have demonstrated potential in targeted-oriented drug delivery and offered remarkable features such as better stability, site-specificity, excellent encapsulation efficiency, prolonged action, enhanced skin penetration, and high drug-loading capability. Nevertheless, nanotoxicology research has raised concerns over the excessive use of nanomaterials/nanoparticles in cosmetics, as nanoparticles might enter the skin resulting in health problems. This review provides insights on the characteristic physicochemical features and the potential use of various nanostructured materials, including liposomes, noisome, nanoemulsions, nanoparticles, carbon nanomaterials (graphene, fullerenes), carbon nanotubes, dendrimers, and nanospheres in cosmeceuticals. Moreover, the regulatory aspects of nanomaterials in cosmetics, along with concluding remarks and outlook in this field, were also vetted. Full article

Background: There is some evidence showing significant correlations between acute chewing gum and orofacial function, and between acute chewing gum and cognitive function; however, as far as we are aware, little is known about the chronic effects of chewing gum training on cognitive and orofacial functions in healthy adults. Objectives: To evaluate the chronic effects of chewing gum training on orofacial and cognitive functions in healthy adults. Method: Searches of the electronic databases PubMed, Scopus, BVS, CENTRAL, Scopus, and Google Scholar were conducted from inception to 14 January 2020. The inclusion criteria used were: clinical trial or randomized controlled trial lasting a minimum of four weeks, chewing gum intervention in at least one arm of the study, presence of a non-exercise control group, study population consisting of healthy adults, study outcomes consisting of orofacial function and/or cognitive function. Results: Starting from 5973 sources, a total of six articles met the inclusion criteria, and they were subjected to a systematic review. The main findings were that chewing gum training improved some variables related to orofacial function. No clear effect of chewing gum training on cognitive function was found. Conclusions: Chronic chewing gum training has an unclear positive effect on specific variables related to orofacial and cognitive function in healthy adults. Full article

Novel nanotechnologies represent the most attractive and innovative tools to date exploited by cosmetic companies to improve the effectiveness of their formulations. In this context, nanoliposomes have had a great impact in topical preparations and dermocosmetics, allowing the transcutaneous penetration and absorption of several active ingredients and improving the stability of sensitive molecules. Despite the recent boom of this class of delivery systems, their industrial production is still limited by the lack of easily scalable production techniques. In this work, nanoliposomes for the topical administration of vitamin D3, K2, E, and curcumin, molecules with high antioxidant and skin curative properties but unstable and poorly absorbable, were produced through a novel simil-microfluidic technique. The developed high-yield semi continuous method is proposed as an alternative to face the problems linked with low productive conventional methods in order to produce antioxidant formulations with improved features. The novel technique has allowed to obtain a massive production of stable antioxidant vesicles of an 84–145 nm size range, negatively charged, and characterized by high loads and encapsulation efficiencies. The obtained products as well as the developed high-performance technology make the achieved formulations very interesting for potential topical applications in the cosmetics/cosmeceutical field. Full article

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a multifactorial and age-related condition characterized by substantial hair loss affecting both men and women. Conventional treatments include the use of topical minoxidil (MNX) formulations to stimulate hair growth and restore hair condition. However, those treatments are associated with limited performance and a lack of tolerability and compliance due to the emergence of adverse effects. Considering that the development of nanotechnology-based formulations as hair loss therapeutic strategies has been clearly growing, topical MNX delivery by means of these innovative formulations is known to enhance MNX skin permeation and depot formation into hair follicles, allowing for MNX-controlled release, increased MNX skin bioavailability and enhanced therapeutic efficacy with minimal adverse effects. This review highlights the potential of nanotechnology-based MNX delivery formulations for improved hair loss therapeutics, including a thorough assessment of their in vitro and in vivo performances, as well as regulatory and nanosafety considerations. Full article

Restrictive regulations concerning the toxicity of certain compounds and the use and disposal of solvents present in the liquid epoxy protection system have been analyzed in this work to evaluate powder coatings as an alternative in the protection of aerosol aluminum cans, which are employed in cosmetics and pharmaceutical product packaging. In this paper, the chemical resistance of polyester and mixed epoxy-polyester powder coatings is assessed, considering different aggressive environments employed in healthcare commercial products. The samples’ performances are also compared with the currently used liquid organic coatings. The pack test has been used to evaluate the protective system behavior in contact with both the liquid and the gaseous part of the cosmetic product. However, the visual observation, required by the test, enabled the highlight of only very evident degradation phenomena. The chemical resistance of the powder coatings has proved to be appropriate only for less aggressive environment, where the critical compounds are propellants, propane, butane and isobutane. When exposed to other environments containing alcohol, water and dimethyl ether, most samples have been susceptible to layer degradation phenomena. Polyester layers lose their corrosion protection properties. Epoxy systems, instead, result more performant than polyester resins, but they particularly suffer from the contact with dimethyl ether. Full article