Cosmetics

An increasing number of people seek treatment for aging-related conditions. Plant-derived nutraceuticals are currently of great interest in the setting of dermo-cosmetic studies for their preventive role in photoaging. We conducted an in vitro study on the possible preventive properties against photoaging of a commercially available product (Venerinase^®). A mixture of Rhodiola rosea, Tribulus terrestris, Moringa oleifera, Undaria pinnatifida, folic acid and vitamin B12 (Venerinase^®) was tested for its potential anti-aging effects on the skin in vitro. Conventional histology, immunofluorescence and real time PCR were employed in the research protocol. The tested product was proven to prevent UV-induced morphological changes both in keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Moreover, senescence-related and proinflammatory pathways commonly triggered by UV exposure were demonstrated to be inhibited by Venerinase^® pretreatment. Our results support the potential clinical benefits of oral supplements for the treatment and/or prevention of cutaneous photodamage. Full article

According to recent trends, people are more interested in cosmetic products based on natural raw materials, known to be safe for humans, including extracts obtained from selected plants, rich in active ingredients, such as proteins, vitamins, micro- and macro-elements, phospholipids, antioxidants, and natural preservatives. An example of such raw materials is Tremella fuciformis extract, which is a natural alternative to hyaluronic acid. It retains water deep in the skin cells and stimulates the skin to fight free radicals, which are responsible for the premature aging of the skin. The aim of this study was to optimize the composition of cosmetic formulations based on natural substitutes for the synthetic substances, as well as their characterization, which included the determination of the physicochemical and skin care properties. Formulations containing Tremella fuciformis extract had the effect of reducing TEWL by 12.4%, compared to a formulation that did not contain this active ingredient, and allowed adequate hydration of the epidermis, which was confirmed by apparatus methods. Additionally, dermatological tests were also conducted for the formulations obtained, which showed that no erythema or swelling/irritation was observed in any of the test volunteers 48 and 72 h after the application of the product. Full article

Microbial communities growing around hot springs (bioglea), of which cyanobacteria are the main components, contribute to beneficial properties of thermal muds and often enter cosmetic treatment products. Bioglea is obtainable via alternative approaches to harvesting from nature: direct cultivation of whole communities and isolation and cultivation of the isolated strains. Cultivation represents a step towards industrial production, guaranteeing higher availability, quality and safety. In this work, the biochemical composition of natural and cultivated bioglea collected in different hot springs and of cyanobacterial strains isolated thereof was analysed. Lipophilic and hydrophilic extracts were tested for antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities and toxicity against Artemia salina. Higher antimicrobial activity was found in lipophilic than hydrophilic bioglea extracts and the opposite in isolates’ extracts. Thermal water extracts also showed some activity. No toxicity was observed. Bioglea radical scavenging activity positively correlated with carotenoids (lipophilic extracts) and phycobiliproteins (hydrophilic extracts). No correlation was observed for isolated strains. Cultivation at the 10 L scale of Chroococcidiopsis BIOG3 evidenced bioactivity changes with the growth phase and life cycle stage. From activity comparison, communities showed higher potential over single strains cultivation; however, further investigations should elucidate isolates’ full potential also by combining them into synthetic communities to simplify production and standardisation. Full article

The objective of this study was to analyze the in vitro stability and toxicity of liposomes containing guarana in skin cell lines. The liposomes were produced by the reverse phase evaporation method containing 1 mg/mL guarana. The stability of the liposomes was evaluated by physical-chemical parameters for up to 90 days using three different storage conditions. The cytotoxicity of guarana (GL), liposomes (B-Lip), and guarana-loaded liposomes (G-Lip) was evaluated on spontaneously immortalized human keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), murine Swiss albino fibroblasts (3T3), and human fibroblasts (1BR.3.G). The evaluation was performed using cellular viability analysis. The techniques used were 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) and neutral red capturing (NRU), and the analyses were conducted after 24, 48, and 72 h of exposure of these cells to the different treatments. The G-Lip exhibited physical-chemical stability for 60 days when the samples were stored in a refrigerator. The GL, B-Lip, and G-Lip demonstrated low cytotoxicity in the three different cell cultures tested since a small reduction in cell viability was only observed at the highest concentrations. In addition, greater cell damage was observed for B-Lip; however, guarana protected the cells from this damage. Thus, G-Lip structures can be considered promising systems for topical applications. Full article

The present work seeks to understand the use of cosmetic creams and the perception of natural and eco-friendly products by women and to explore the impacts of their personal characteristics. The study was designed using two approaches: (i) an investigation into the role of personal characteristics on the frequency of use and amount spent on cosmetic creams; and (ii) an understanding of the perception of natural and eco-friendly cosmetic creams by the use of check-all-that-apply (CATA) questions. Results showed that scholarity has a strong influence on the use of cosmetic creams; women with a postgraduate education reported higher frequency of use and spending on cosmetic creams and showed an awareness of natural and eco-friendly cosmetics. The subject of natural and eco-friendly cosmetic creams is not something that most of the women that participated were aware of, and the CATA technique proved to be a valuable tool to discover this. Full article

The skin microbiome is an essential barrier for preventing the invasion of pathogens and regulating the immune responses. When this barrier is disrupted, several dermatoses, including acne vulgaris, may arise. Most people will experience acne starting at the onset of puberty and continuing into adolescence; a significant percentage of those individuals continue to suffer from it into adulthood. Although common, this dermatosis usually has an enormous impact on the self-esteem and quality of life of individuals who suffer from it. An increase in consumer literacy regarding skincare leads buyers to seek out innovative products containing ingredients with proven benefits for their concerns. Probiotics have proven to be an alternative to the use of antibiotics, often associated with undesirable effects, in the treatment and prevention of dermatological disorders such as acne. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the pathophysiology, risk factors, symptoms, conventional treatment recommendations and main studies emphasizing innovative topical products for acne-prone skin based on probiotics. In addition, the potential advantages, and limitations/challenges associated with the implementation and manufacturing of these innovative skin products are also highlighted. Full article

In the current work, Oil in Water (O/W) and Water in Oil (W/O) emulsions containing Vitamins A, C and E in 0.5, 1 and 2% wt concentrations were prepared. The pH and viscosity stability over storage, as well as the sunscreen and antioxidant properties of the obtained emulsions, were investigated. The results obtained showed that vitamins slightly increased the pH of the blank emulsions; however, their pH values were within the acceptable values (pH = 4–6). Nevertheless, all emulsions presented excellent pH stability during storage for up to 90 days. Similar results were observed by rheological measurements as the prepared emulsions did not exhibit viscosity instabilities deriving during storage. Moreover, emulsions containing Vitamin A exhibited higher UV protection than the other emulsions, as the W/O emulsion containing 2% wt Vitamin A presented the highest SPF value at 22.6. Full article

In the present study, selected cosmeceutical properties of aqueous extracts from the microalgae strain Trachydiscus minutus were assessed and compared with those obtained using three widely used Chlorella strains (C. vulgaris, C. sorokiniana, and C. minutissima). Among all extracts, T. minutus extracts showed the highest total antioxidant capacity (TAC) and inhibitory potency towards elastase, suggesting potential activity in controlling skin aging. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory activity and UVA protection of T. minutus extract were evaluated employing normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The results showed that the T. minutus extract was able to significantly inhibit the transcription of selected marker genes involved in inflammation [interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFα)]. In addition, treatment of NHDF and HaCaT cells with T. minutus extract ameliorate the UVA-induced cell damage by decreasing the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Extracts from T. minutus were formulated into a skin care cream and an aqueous gel. Both formulas exhibited excellent compatibility and stability. Comprehensively, all these results suggest that T. minutus extract displays promising cosmeceutical properties by providing antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities, and therefore has potential for cosmeceutical use. Full article

This study, for the first time, evaluated the safety and efficacy of a new natural-based topical gel containing a spirulina extract. This photoconverter gel generates fluorescent light energy (FLE) via a red LED light device, which is proven to be effective for age control of facial skin. This was a one-centre, observational, uncontrolled pilot trial. Eight healthy female subjects aged 35 to 65 years old, with Fitzpatrick skin types II–V were recruited. The duration of the study was five treatment sessions of one treatment every seven days, with a final follow-up at one month after the last treatment session. The images and the related data were acquired with the SONY^® Mod. DSCRX10M3, the Canfield VISIA Facial Imaging System^®, and QUANTIFICARE 3D^® analysis. Patient compliance was excellent (100%) and the treatment was described as warm and pleasant by the patients. After 30 days, VISIA parameters such as wrinkles, texture, red areas, and Trueskin Age^® had improved. The safety and efficacy of the FLE treatment assessed in this trial were achieved for overall rejuvenation of facial skin, focusing on wrinkles evaluated via the specific VISIA algorithms. Full article

Anemarrhena asphodeloides Bunge (A. asphodeloides Bunge) root extract contains nyasol as its main ingredient. Nyasol was extracted and prepared as a cosmetic raw material in 95% ethanol. To identify nyasol as a marker compound qualitative analysis was performed using ultra-performance liquid chromatographyi coupled with electrospray ionization–tandem mass spectrometry. Below a nyasol content of 12 μg/mL, the root extract exhibited negligible cytotoxicity. In this concentration range, melanin production in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells decreased as the concentration of nyasol increased, indicating a skin-whitening effect. In addition, an antiwrinkling effect was confirmed by evaluating the inhibition of MMP-1 protein expression in TNF-α-treated HaCaT cells by either A. asphodeloides Bunge root extract (>0.31 μg/mL) or nyasol (>0.25 μg/mL). High-performance liquid chromatography-coupled with a photodiode detector array was used to show that our extract contained 5.06 ± 0.01% nyasol. Furthermore, when this analysis method was applied for the quality control of a cream product containing 2 wt.% of A. asphodeloides Bunge root extract, the measured content of nyasol (0.1%) was over 90% of the nominal quantity. Therefore, the product was deemed to be within the required quality standards. Full article

Glutathione (GSH) is present in almost all human cells and has a beneficial effect on human skin brightness. Cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly) and γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys) are GSH synthesis components. In this study, we defined glutathione (GSH), cysteinylglycine (Cys-Gly), and γ-glutamylcysteine (γ-Glu-Cys) as cysteine peptide and performed a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study to investigate the effects of orally administered cysteine peptide on human skin brightness using a CM-26d portable spectrophotometer in healthy males and females aged between 20 and 65 years old. Eligible participants were randomly allocated into three groups (cysteine peptide 45 mg: n = 16, 90 mg: n = 15, and placebo: n = 16). Each subject ingested six tablets every day for 12 weeks, and skin brightness was measured at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. As a result, the 45 mg group exhibited arm brightening in a time-dependent manner, and a significant difference was observed compared to the placebo at week 12 (p = 0.028). Moreover, no serious adverse events and changes related to 270 mg study food were observed in the safety trial. Here, we suggest that cysteine peptide is a promising and safe compound for human skin brightness. Full article

There has been interest in the history of cosmetics for the last several decades. In part, this renewed curiosity is probably due to the revolutionizing natural movement in the cosmetic industry. In this article, we provide an overview of the historical aspects of the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics, which mostly come from botanical and mineral sources. We begin with an introduction to the art and science of cosmetics in the ancient world, which includes accounts of Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Greek, and Roman cosmetics as well as Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurvedic Medicine. These dermatological and cosmetic practices, which were advanced for the time, paved the way for the current revolution of natural ingredients in cosmetic products. Without providing a comprehensive historical account, we surveyed selected cultures during different periods of time to provide some perspective of our current understanding of natural ingredients in cosmetics. Attention is also given to the rich contributions of body art by tribal societies to our knowledge base, especially in the areas of dyes and pigments. Finally, we offer some perspective of natural ingredient cosmetics in the Information Age. Full article

Cosmetic skincare products often consist of residual chemical ingredients which are by-products of the manufacturing process that may cause side effects such as skin irritation or allergic dermatitis; investigating the safety of these products to protect the consumer is an important part in the quality control of formulations intended for skin application. Acrylates are a type of polymer widely used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications as copolymers, emulsifiers, and cross-linkers. Due to the acrylates being strong skin irritants and sensitizers, it is essential to quantify the levels of residual acrylate monomers in the formulation; these levels must be within the accepted value to be safe. Our previously reported novel hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogel films were formulated using pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (PT) as the crosslinker. Therefore, it was crucial to analyze the residual PT in these hydrogel films. Gas chromatography (GC) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy were used as analytical methods to detect the residual PT monomers in the HA hydrogel samples. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was conducted to investigate structural changes due to the PT monomers leaching out from the HA hydrogel films. The results from the GC method validation (linearity R² > 0.99, RSD for intra-day precision = 1.78%, inter-day precision = 2.52%, %recovery = 101.73%, %RSD = 1.59% for robustness, LOD, LOQ values 0.000032% m/m, 0.00013% m/m for sensitivity) revealed its suitability for such studies. NMR analysis results agreed with the GC results confirming the correct quantification of the extracted residual acrylate monomer. The maximum safe concentration of PT crosslinker in the formulation was determined to be 2.55% m/m. Full article

The global demand for herbal cosmetics is vastly increasing due to their health benefits and relative safety. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are used in cosmetic preparations due to their skin-whitening, antisensitizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this work is to computationally evaluate the bioactive constituents of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) that possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and dermatocosmetic activities, and elucidate the dynamics of their molecular targets. The used methods are skin permeability prediction, target prediction, molecular docking, and molecular dynamic simulation (MDS). The results show that, at a skin permeation cut-off value of −6.0 cm/s, nine phytoconstituents of licorice (furfuraldehyde, glucoliquiritin apioside, glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritin, licopyranocoumarin, licuraside, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and liquiritin apioside) were workable. Molecular target prediction results indicate probability for tyrosinase, 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (HSD11B1), monoamine oxidase B, steroid 5-alpha-reductase 1, and cyclo-oxygenase-1. On the basis of molecular docking, glucoliquiritin apioside and glycyrrhizin had the best antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and dermatocosmetic activities. MDS results show that the complexes had good stability, and MMGBSA results indicate that the complexes had satisfactory binding energy. Overall, this study demonstrates that licorice extracts are potential antioxidants that could enhance histological dermal and epidermal properties, and reduce the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers. Full article

Resveratrol is a polyphenolic phytoalexin, whose main natural sources are red grapes, red wine, berries, and peanuts. When applied to the skin, resveratrol evidences a good penetrating capacity and low degradation compared to the oral route, allowing for a longer and improved topical effect. This bioactive molecule has been gaining interest in dermo-pharmacy and cosmetics for the prevention and treatment of skin alterations. Its inherent meritorious biomedical potentials, including anti-aging, photoprotective, estrogen-like, skin-whitening, anti-acne, wound healing, anti-scarring, antimicrobial, and anti-skin cancer properties are the most evident. However, resveratrol evidences stability hurdles, becoming an unstable molecule when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Several technological strategies have been developed to improve its stability, efficacy, and safety. We have described the main topical properties of resveratrol, and the involved mechanisms of action, and a great focus was placed on the technological strategies for the efficient application of resveratrol in dermatological and cosmetic formulations, including nanotechnology. Full article

Microplastics have been widely used in cosmetics and, among other things, very often as an abrasive component in peelings. This type of additive is not the main cause of environmental microplastic contamination, but it can pose a significant threat to the environment and to people. Manufacturers are increasingly taking the decision to withdraw microplastics from cosmetics, replacing them with alternatives, and this is also happening because of legal requirements. The European Chemicals Agency, in 2019, presented a proposal to limit the use of polymer plastics in cosmetic products due to the fact that they may be a potential source of primary microplastics. The final form of the EU regulation is planned for the years 2023–2024. The aim of this study was to analyze the compositions of widely available rinse-off abrasive cosmetics from Polish manufacturers and to identify the most common natural raw materials replacing microplastics. Fifty randomly selected rinse-off products were analyzed for abrasive ingredients in INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) formulations. Among the tested cosmetics, 13 contained microplastics and 49 contained natural abrasive particles, and polyethylene did not appear in any product. The most common vegetable raw material substitute for microplastics was sugar, and sodium chloride was the most common mineral substitute. Compared to previous years, there has been an improvement in the Polish cosmetics market, where manufacturers are increasingly opting for plant-based substitutes for microplastics, but relevant legal regulation is still needed. Full article

The skin is the human body’s largest organ and serves as a crucial boundary between the body and the external environment. As a natural process, skin aging cannot be avoided, and it causes changes in the skin’s strength, structure, elasticity, and integrity. Many approaches have been developed over the years to study the skin, including in vivo and in vitro methods. Nevertheless, animal assays have ethical issues and a lack of reproducibility. Hence, in vitro skin models have been increasingly developed and used. For the assessment of the potential of the anti-aging activity of compounds of different origins, the most commonly used in vitro assays are the ones evaluating antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, antiglycation, or moisturizing activity, and the induction of skin cell proliferation/anti-senescence effects or the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase production. The purpose of this review is to summarize the most commonly used in vitro models for the evaluation of skin aging and cometic products’ anti-aging efficacy, providing a useful guide for researchers in the field. Overall, these assays provide important data on the safety and efficacy of anti-aging compounds, and a foundation for research on and the eventual introduction of formulations into the cosmetics market. Full article

Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles that are released by cells, and their potential has been explored for use in cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases. The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate gene expression, and induce cell differentiation, which can have a positive impact on skin health. In terms of cosmetics, exosomes have been used to reduce wrinkles, improve skin texture and hydration, and enhance skin elasticity, as well as to reduce inflammation and damage caused by UV radiation. Furthermore, exosomes have been used to promote tissue regeneration in skin wounds and to treat dermatological diseases such as systemic lupus erythematosus, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, systemic sclerosis, pigment regulation, vitiligo, and hair growth. In this review, the therapeutic value of exosomes in the field of cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases, has been elaborated. The existing literature demonstrated that with further research, exosomes may become a viable therapeutic option for many skin conditions. Full article