Cosmetics

23 pages, 1410 KB

Open AccessReview

Overview of Hydrogels and the Use of Hyaluronic Acid-Based Hydrogels in Pharmaceutical Transdermal Delivery Systems and Topical Cosmetic Skin Applications

by Fatimah Rashid, Paul Carter and Stephen Childs

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 265; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060265 - 20 Nov 2025

Abstract

Hydrogels have gained significant attention as effective vehicles for transdermal applications offering significant advantages in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Their unique polymeric network structure enables efficient encapsulation and controlled release of active ingredients, making them ideal for therapeutic drug delivery systems (TDDs) and [...] Read more.

Hydrogels have gained significant attention as effective vehicles for transdermal applications offering significant advantages in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Their unique polymeric network structure enables efficient encapsulation and controlled release of active ingredients, making them ideal for therapeutic drug delivery systems (TDDs) and topical skincare formulations. In pharmaceutical approaches, hydrogels facilitate the transdermal transport of therapeutic agents into systemic circulation, improving bioavailability and patient compliance. In cosmetics, they enhance skin hydration and support the delivery of bioactive compounds, contributing to improved product performance and user satisfaction. Among various hydrogel-forming polymers, Hyaluronic Acid (HA) stands out as the most often used polymer in this field due to its biocompatibility, moisture-retention properties, and ability to penetrate the skin. This review explores the dual role of HA-based hydrogels in pharmaceutical and cosmetic application, detailing their structural characteristics, preparation methods, and mechanisms of active ingredient loading and release. Furthermore, the review presents the details on hydrogels and how they are used as TDDs. Special attention is given to hyaluronic acid (HA) in this field, and this review discusses the properties, preparation methods, and applications of HA-based hydrogels as a delivery system, including methods of loading the actives and the releasing of these actives from them. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 1534 KB

Open AccessReview

Injectable Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA-SCA™) as a Versatile Treatment in Current Aesthetic Medicine: Expert Recommendations Based on Italian Clinical Experience

by Alessandro Innocenti, Tommaso Battistella, Carlo Di Gregorio, Massimiliano Leporati, Massimo Luni and Leonardo Rossati

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 264; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060264 - 18 Nov 2025

Abstract

Increasing experience in the use of PLLA-SCA™ suggests that a brief overview of recent studies and a standardization of treatment protocols based on new clinical data should be beneficial. The aim of this article is to provide guidance on the use of PLLA-SCA™ [...] Read more.

Increasing experience in the use of PLLA-SCA™ suggests that a brief overview of recent studies and a standardization of treatment protocols based on new clinical data should be beneficial. The aim of this article is to provide guidance on the use of PLLA-SCA™ based on data from the literature and the experience of five plastic surgeons and one aesthetic physician, with a focus on Italian patients. To this effect, the authors convened online to discuss various aspects related to PLLA-SCA™ treatment of both the face and non-facial body areas. For each topic, the authors developed recommendations, addressing patient selection, product preparation and injection protocols. Suggestions regarding the combination of PLLA-SCA™ with other aesthetic treatments and the prevention of adverse events were also included. The authors suggest using dilution volumes of 8 mL of sterile water for injection (SWFI) plus 1 mL lidocaine for the face and 17 mL SWFI plus 1 mL lidocaine for body areas and immediate use after product reconstitution. By adhering to the latest instructions about product reconstitution, the occurrence of complications is minimized. In the Authors’ experience, PLLA-SCA™ can be used safely and effectively for cosmetic enhancement of multiple body areas. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 357 KB

Open AccessReview

Aquaporins in the Skin: Molecular Regulators of Hydration and Potential Targets for Cosmetic Applications

by Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 263; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060263 - 17 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin hydration is fundamental for maintaining epidermal barrier integrity and overall skin homeostasis. Beyond traditional moisturizing agents, recent research has highlighted the role of aquaporins (AQPs), transmembrane water channels, in regulating epidermal hydration, barrier function, and cellular signalling. Among them, aquaporin-3 (AQP3), predominantly [...] Read more.

Skin hydration is fundamental for maintaining epidermal barrier integrity and overall skin homeostasis. Beyond traditional moisturizing agents, recent research has highlighted the role of aquaporins (AQPs), transmembrane water channels, in regulating epidermal hydration, barrier function, and cellular signalling. Among them, aquaporin-3 (AQP3), predominantly expressed in keratinocytes, has attracted particular attention due to its involvement in water and glycerol transport. Dysregulation of AQP expression has been associated with impaired barrier function, inflammatory skin disorders, and ageing. Growing evidence suggests that specific cosmetic ingredients and bioactive compounds, including glycerol, glyceryl glucoside, isosorbide dicaprylate, urea, retinoids, bakuchiol, peptides, plant extracts, and bacterial ferments, can modulate AQP3 expression, thereby improving skin hydration and resilience. Despite promising in vitro data, clinical evidence remains limited, mainly due to methodological and ethical constraints associated with assessing aquaporin expression in vivo. Nonetheless, aquaporins represent promising molecular targets for innovative cosmetic strategies aimed at enhancing hydration, promoting regeneration, and counteracting photoageing. Furthermore, AQP modulation may improve dermal delivery of active substances, providing new perspectives for advanced skincare formulation design. While the available evidence supports their cosmetic potential, emerging discussions on the safety of long-term AQP upregulation highlight the need for continued research and careful evaluation of such ingredients. Future studies should focus on elucidating the molecular mechanisms underlying AQP regulation and validating these findings in human clinical models. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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Graphical abstract

26 pages, 523 KB

Open AccessReview

Ingredients of Trichological Shampoos with Alleged Beneficial Effects on Hair—What Is Really Known About Their Efficacy? A Scoping Review of an Area with More Unknowns than Knowns

by Radoslaw Spiewak and Ewelina Szendzielorz

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 262; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060262 - 17 Nov 2025

Abstract

Numerous ingredients in trichological shampoos are advertised as “active against hair loss”; however, the body of evidence behind such claims seems very limited or, in many cases, nonexistent. The aim of this study was to compile an inventory of substances advertised by shampoo [...] Read more.

Numerous ingredients in trichological shampoos are advertised as “active against hair loss”; however, the body of evidence behind such claims seems very limited or, in many cases, nonexistent. The aim of this study was to compile an inventory of substances advertised by shampoo manufacturers as “active” against hair loss and systematically review available evidence from clinical trials that would corroborate such claims. We screened declared compositions of trichological shampoos for ingredients advertised as active against hair loss or promoting hair growth. The second step was a systematic review of clinical trials of these substances used topically in the treatment of hair loss. A query in PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science followed PRISMA and PICO guidelines with the strength of evidence assessed according to GRADE guidelines. We identified 43 trichological shampoos in which 112 individual ingredients were advertised as “active”. Of these, 36 ingredients were indicated as “active” in at least two shampoos and were subject to further study. In the search for evidence, 103,639 articles were screened for relevant information. Ultimately, we identified 29 clinical trials that tested 16 of the 36 ingredients for efficacy against hair loss. Only four ingredients were tested individually: adenosine (four trials; highest strength of evidence: moderate), caffeine (four trials; moderate), placental protein (two trials; low), and melatonin (one trial; moderate). Another 12 ingredients of interest were only tested as parts of complex preparations: Achillea millefolium extract, arginine, biotin, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, Panax ginseng, panthenol, piroctone olamine, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Rosmarinus officinalis, Serenoa serrulata, and Urtica dioica. Such a study design made it impossible to attribute the observed effects to any specific ingredient. No clinical trials of efficacy could be found for the remaining 20 (55.6%) substances repeatedly cited as “active”. At the present stage, scientific evidence for efficacy against hair loss is available only for caffeine, adenosine, placental proteins, and melatonin, but the overall strength of evidence is low. Moreover, a substantial majority of topical ingredients promoted as “active against hair loss” were never actually tested in clinical trials to verify such claims. While unsubstantiated claims of supposed beneficial properties often refer to alleged scientific evidence, there are major gaps to be filled in the field of non-prescription treatments for hair loss. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 653 KB

Open AccessArticle

Optimized Extraction of Passiflora ligularis Pectins: Characterization and Application in Moisturizing Cosmetic Products

by Maria Camila Restrepo-Zapata, Paola Andrea Chacón-Pabón, Estefanía Montoya-Henao, Deysi Tatiana Muñoz-Castiblanco and Juan Camilo Mejía-Giraldo

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 261; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060261 - 17 Nov 2025

Abstract

Passiflora ligularis (granadilla), widely cultivated in Colombia, contains secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, phenols, and pectins. Owing to their strong water-retention capacity, pectins are promising candidates for moisturizing cosmetic formulations. This study optimized pectin extraction from fruit peel and mesocarp using aqueous reflux [...] Read more.

Passiflora ligularis (granadilla), widely cultivated in Colombia, contains secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, phenols, and pectins. Owing to their strong water-retention capacity, pectins are promising candidates for moisturizing cosmetic formulations. This study optimized pectin extraction from fruit peel and mesocarp using aqueous reflux at 90 °C and acid extraction with citric or hydrochloric acid (0.25 N and 0.125 N) at 40–60 °C. The effects of solvent, method (reflux or microwave-assisted), time (15–25 min), and temperature (50–60 °C) were investigated. Extracted pectins were dried, lyophilized, and incorporated into eight gel-type cosmetic formulations subjected to seven-day preliminary stability testing (physicochemical and organoleptic evaluation). Optimal extraction was achieved with citric acid under microwave irradiation at 60 °C for 15 min, yielding 45.23%. The pectin exhibited low moisture (0.13%), acidity (0.42%), methoxyl content (9.05%), and degree of esterification (57.6%), along with high swelling capacity (12.46 mL/g) and water-retention capacity (12.26%). The resulting gel formulation was homogeneous and stable. In vitro assays confirmed significant moisturizing activity. These findings highlight P. ligularis pectins as sustainable biopolymers with potential as natural gelling and moisturizing agents in cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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12 pages, 1880 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of New Anti-Wrinkle Peptide Using Cheminformatics-Assisted Peptidomimetic Design

by Soyoon Baek, Sekyoo Jeong, Seokjeong Yoon, Yeonjae Kim, Sungwoo Kim, Hwa-Jee Chung, Hyun-Jung Kim, In Ki Hong and Gaewon Nam

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 260; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060260 - 15 Nov 2025

Abstract

Peptides are recognized as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in cosmetic science, as they offer diverse beneficial effects such as skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, and skin barrier enhancement. In this study, we applied a cheminformatics-assisted peptidomimetic design platform to design novel peptides targeting heat shock protein [...] Read more.

Peptides are recognized as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in cosmetic science, as they offer diverse beneficial effects such as skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, and skin barrier enhancement. In this study, we applied a cheminformatics-assisted peptidomimetic design platform to design novel peptides targeting heat shock protein 47 (Hsp47), a collagen-specific molecular chaperone that is downregulated during skin aging. Using molecular fingerprint similarity-based peptide design and protein–peptide docking simulations, five candidate peptides were screened, among which ICP-1225 (TY) emerged as a potent stimulator of Hsp47 and collagen (COL1A1 and COL3A1) expression in dermal fibroblasts. To improve stability and skin penetration, fatty acid-conjugated derivatives of ICP-1225 were synthesized, and acetyl-TY (ICP-1236) demonstrated the most consistent upregulation of Hsp47 and collagen in vitro. Restoration of Hsp47 protein expression and dermal collagen levels in UVB-damaged ex vivo human skin explants was also observed. These findings highlight the potential of cheminformatics-assisted peptide design in the development of next-generation cosmetic actives. ICP-1236 represents a promising anti-wrinkle candidate through the modulation of Hsp47 and collagen pathways, warranting further clinical evaluation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 668 KB

Open AccessArticle

Pharmacological Potential of Agave sisalana Plant Residue: Antioxidant and Antifungal Activities

by Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa, Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso, Ryan Peixoto Gonçalves, Wellington Ricardo Pereira Martins, Fernando Augusto Araújo Donangelo Oliveira, Eduardo Bergamaschi Coelho, Giacomo Odorizzi Barbosa, Natalia Alves Zoppe, Kássia Aiko Asano Miyashiro, Julia Pereira Gomes, Beatriz de Castro Silva, Debora Barros Barbosa, Valdecir Farias Ximenes, Pedro de Oliva Neto and Lucinéia dos Santos

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 259; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060259 - 15 Nov 2025

Abstract

Sisal (Agave sisalana) is a plant widely cultivated in Brazil for fiber extraction, generating large volumes of underutilized residues with pharmacological potential. In this study, an aqueous extract and its alcoholic fraction were obtained from the plant’s residual mucilage, aiming to [...] Read more.

Sisal (Agave sisalana) is a plant widely cultivated in Brazil for fiber extraction, generating large volumes of underutilized residues with pharmacological potential. In this study, an aqueous extract and its alcoholic fraction were obtained from the plant’s residual mucilage, aiming to investigate their antifungal activity, antioxidant capacity, and cellular safety. Phytochemical screening revealed high levels of phenols, flavonoids, and saponins, particularly in the aqueous fraction. The extracts were evaluated for antioxidant activity using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and for antifungal activity against the yeasts Candida albicans and Malassezia pachydermatis, as determined by the Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC). The aqueous extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity and inhibited 99% of C. albicans and M. pachydermatis growth at concentrations of 87 μg/mL and 1400 μg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, it showed low cytotoxicity in NIH/3T3 fibroblasts. These findings indicate that sisal residue contains promising bioactive compounds with relevant pharmacological properties, reinforcing its potential as a sustainable source for the development of antifungal and antioxidant phytotherapeutics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 1926 KB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Whitening Effect and Molecular Mechanism of Phenyllactic Acid (PLA) Derived from Limosilactobacillus reuteri Culture Broth

by Ki-Min Kim, Seo-Yeon Shin, Nu-Ri Song, Jae-Hee Byun, Seon-Ju Kim, Sun Oh Kim and Kyung-Mok Park

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 258; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060258 - 14 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin hyperpigmentation is primarily regulated by melanogenesis, in which tyrosinase and related enzymes play pivotal roles. Probiotics have recently been attracting attention as a cosmetic ingredient due to their skin-friendly and eco-friendly properties. In particular, microbial metabolites, known as postbiotics, are gaining attention [...] Read more.

Skin hyperpigmentation is primarily regulated by melanogenesis, in which tyrosinase and related enzymes play pivotal roles. Probiotics have recently been attracting attention as a cosmetic ingredient due to their skin-friendly and eco-friendly properties. In particular, microbial metabolites, known as postbiotics, are gaining attention for their superior safety, stability, and efficacy compared with probiotics. In this study, we investigated the whitening effect and molecular mechanisms of phenyllactic acid (PLA), a metabolite derived from Limosilactobacillus reuteri (L. reuteri) culture broth. In B16F10 melanoma cells, the effects of PLA were evaluated by measuring melanin content, cellular tyrosinase activity, enzyme kinetics, and the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins. PLA significantly inhibited melanin production and cellular tyrosinase activity in α-MSH–stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells without inducing cytotoxicity. PLA downregulated tyrosinase-related proteins such as TRP-1 and TRP-2, and competitively inhibited tyrosinase. The inhibition constants (Ki) for L-tyrosine and L-DOPA were 12.63 mM and 0.68 mM, respectively. These findings suggest that PLA, a postbiotic derived from lactic acid bacteria, may serve as a safe and effective whitening ingredient, providing a scientific basis for the development of functional skin-whitening cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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25 pages, 8624 KB

Open AccessArticle

Spider Silk-Inspired SVX Biopolymer: A Novel Haircare Technology for Superior Color Retention, Heat Protection, and Hydration

by Konstantin Press, Ella Sklan, Miriam Gubelbank, Ali Abu Znaid and Shlomzion Shen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 257; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060257 - 14 Nov 2025

Abstract

This study presents a novel application of SVX, a recombinant spider silk-inspired biopolymer, for advanced haircare formulations, designed to protect bleached and color-treated hair. Two SVX-based treatments—a multifunctional leave-on serum and a post-color booster—were developed to address key challenges: color fading, heat damage, [...] Read more.

This study presents a novel application of SVX, a recombinant spider silk-inspired biopolymer, for advanced haircare formulations, designed to protect bleached and color-treated hair. Two SVX-based treatments—a multifunctional leave-on serum and a post-color booster—were developed to address key challenges: color fading, heat damage, and moisture loss. Under simulated oxidative, thermal, and environmental stress conditions, SVX formulations demonstrated significantly improved performance compared to benchmark products. SVX-treated hair exhibited a substantial reduction in color change (ΔE reduced from 5.2 ± 1.1 to 2.1 ± 0.6), retained mechanical strength after intense heat exposure (>90% tensile strength vs. 64% in controls), and showed a marked increase in hydration (>84% moisture retention vs. 56% in untreated hair). The booster treatment further enhanced cuticle sealing and post-color recovery without altering dye intensity. SVX forms a protective, proteinaceous network on the hair surface, reinforcing the fiber structure and maintaining moisture. Its sustainable, biodegradable, and vegan profile supports its use in next-generation cosmetic innovations. These results position SVX as a powerful, multifunctional ingredient for high-performance and eco-conscious haircare applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 2660 KB

Open AccessArticle

POLEVAN^®—A Multifunctional Natural Hair Ingredient, as Determined by In-Vitro and Human Studies

by Eli Budman, Camelia Goren, Yuval Sagiv and Alain Khaiat

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 256; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060256 - 12 Nov 2025

Abstract

Natural shampoos are increasingly designed to provide multifunctional benefits beyond cleansing, including hair conditioning, scalp protection, and reduced irritation potential. POLEVAN^®, a proprietary levan-based polysaccharide produced enzymatically from sugar, offers a combination of oligo- and polysaccharide fractions with potential cosmetic applications. [...] Read more.

Natural shampoos are increasingly designed to provide multifunctional benefits beyond cleansing, including hair conditioning, scalp protection, and reduced irritation potential. POLEVAN^®, a proprietary levan-based polysaccharide produced enzymatically from sugar, offers a combination of oligo- and polysaccharide fractions with potential cosmetic applications. This study evaluated POLEVAN^® in shampoo formulations for three targeted effects: improving hair glossiness, enhancing scalp moisturization, and boosting foam while enabling reduced surfactant levels. Glossiness was assessed ex vivo using damaged hair tresses. Moisturization was assessed in a randomized clinical trial, comparing the test formulation with hyaluronic acid (HA), employing corneometer readings and Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements. The study was subject-blinded, and all outcomes were determined solely through quantitative, device-based measurements, minimizing observer bias. Foaming performance was tested using the Shaking Cylinder Method. Shampoos containing 2% POLEVAN^® significantly increased hair glossiness by 24% (p = 0.0375) versus a non-significant increase without POLEVAN^®. Moisturization studies showed no significant difference between POLEVAN^® and HA in maintaining hydration or preventing TEWL over 4 weeks. Foam analysis demonstrated that addition of POLEVAN^® allowed up to 50% reduction in surfactant content without compromising foam generation or stability. These results highlight POLEVAN^® as a multifunctional natural ingredient capable of improving sensory and performance attributes of shampoos while supporting gentler formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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26 pages, 2469 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of a Multifunctional Phytocosmetic Nanoemulsion Containing Achillea millefolium: A Sustainable Approach

by Thais Silva Christiani, Luciana Pereira Rangel, Andressa Souto Ramalho Soares, Anne Caroline Candido Gomes, Ariely Costa dos Santos, Mariana Sato S. B. Monteiro, Naomi Kato Simas and Eduardo Ricci-Junior

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 255; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060255 - 11 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin aging, including photoaging, is primarily triggered by chronic exposure to solar radiation, which induces free radical formation, cellular deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage, and structural skin alterations. Achillea millefolium L. (Asteraceae) is rich in phenolic compounds and alkamides, substances known for their antioxidant [...] Read more.

Skin aging, including photoaging, is primarily triggered by chronic exposure to solar radiation, which induces free radical formation, cellular deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage, and structural skin alterations. Achillea millefolium L. (Asteraceae) is rich in phenolic compounds and alkamides, substances known for their antioxidant activity. This study aimed to develop and characterize a photoprotective phytocosmetic nanoemulsion containing crude root extract of A. millefolium. The extract exhibited a total phenolic content of 3.067 ± 1.911 µg GAE/mL, potent antioxidant activity (EC₅₀ = 69.11 ± 8.899 µg/mL), moderate tyrosinase inhibition (19 ± 1.8%), and no cytotoxicity in keratinocytes. The extract was incorporated into nanoemulsions at concentrations of 0.1%, 0.5%, and 1%. The resulting droplets showed mean diameters of 217 to 230 nm, with a significant increase in the polydispersity index (PDI) after extract addition (p < 0.05). Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) confirmed the spherical morphology of the droplets. The in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) was 14 ± 0.9 in the control formulation and increased to 15 ± 2.0 (0.1%), 22 ± 5.2 (0.5%), and 17 ± 1.0 (1%), suggesting a synergistic effect between the extract and chemical filters. All formulations demonstrated UVA/UVB ratio > 0.6, a pH near to 5, occlusive properties, and good spreadability. The results indicate that A. millefolium extract holds potential for safe photoprotective formulations, offering a valuable antioxidant and depigmenting activity in addition to enhancing the SPF. This position is an innovative alternative to phytocosmetic development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advances in the Development of Sustainable Cosmetic Products With Nanotechnology)

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Graphical abstract

17 pages, 819 KB

Open AccessReview

A Decade of Autologous Micrografting Technology in Hair Restoration: A Review of Clinical Evidence and the Evolving Landscape of Regenerative Treatments

by Vera Wang, Antonella Tosti, Antoniya Ivanova, Marta Huertas and Colombina Vincenzi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 254; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060254 - 11 Nov 2025

Abstract

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent, multifactorial hair disorder affecting a substantial portion of both males and females, with significant psychosocial consequences. Over the past decade, regenerative medicine has reshaped AGA treatment, offering biologically driven alternatives to conventional pharmacological and surgical therapies. Among [...] Read more.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent, multifactorial hair disorder affecting a substantial portion of both males and females, with significant psychosocial consequences. Over the past decade, regenerative medicine has reshaped AGA treatment, offering biologically driven alternatives to conventional pharmacological and surgical therapies. Among these, Autologous Micrografting Technology (AMT) (Regenera Activa^® by Rigenera^® Technology, Barcelona, Spain) emerged 10 years ago as a notable innovation leveraging the body’s intrinsic regenerative potential through micrografts derived from a healthy scalp tissue. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the pathophysiology of AGA—including genetic, hormonal, and inflammatory contributors—and evaluates the clinical efficacy, safety, and mechanistic basis of AMT in comparison with other regenerative strategies such as platelet-rich plasma, adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells, and exosome-based treatments. Clinical studies demonstrate that AMT yields significant short-term improvements in hair density and thickness with favorable safety outcomes. Moreover, advancements in device technology and treatment protocols have enhanced consistency and reproducibility. As multimodal and personalized approaches gain traction in hair restoration, AMT is a minimally invasive point-of-care procedure within the evolving regenerative landscape. Future studies are warranted to optimize treatment algorithms, extend follow-up data, better define patient selection criteria for maximizing outcomes with AMT, and expand the indication of autologous micrografting technology. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2670 KB

Open AccessArticle

Centella asiatica L. Urb. Extracellular Vesicle and Growth Factor Essence for Hair and Scalp Health: A 56-Day Exploratory Randomized Trial

by Tsong-Min Chang, Chung-Chin Wu, Huey-Chun Huang, Ji-Ying Lu, Ching-Hua Chuang, Pei-Lun Kao, Wei-Hsuan Tang, Wang-Ju Hsieh, Luke Tzu-Chi Liu, Wei-Yin Qiu, Ivona Percec, Charles Chen and Tsun-Yung Kuo

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 253; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060253 - 10 Nov 2025

Abstract

Hair loss and scalp dysfunction are prevalent concerns with limited non-medicinal long-term solutions. Growth factors and plant-derived extracellular vesicle (EV) represent promising regenerative approaches. In this exploratory randomized controlled trial, 60 healthy adults (18–60 years) were randomly assigned into five groups: (A) placebo; [...] Read more.

Hair loss and scalp dysfunction are prevalent concerns with limited non-medicinal long-term solutions. Growth factors and plant-derived extracellular vesicle (EV) represent promising regenerative approaches. In this exploratory randomized controlled trial, 60 healthy adults (18–60 years) were randomly assigned into five groups: (A) placebo; (B) base formula with 0.1% caffeine and panthenol; (C) base + recombinant Fc-fusion long-acting insulin-like growth factor-1 (rIGF-1) and fibroblast growth factor-7 (rFGF-7); (D) base + Centella asiatica (C. asiatica) EV; and (E) base + rIGF-1, rFGF-7, and C. asiatica EV. Participants applied their assigned product once daily for 56 days. Scalp and hair parameters, including sebum content, hair length, thickness, density, and hair loss, were assessed at baseline and Days 14, 28, 42, and 56. The combination of C. asiatica EV with rIGF-1 and rFGF-7 (Group E) showed the greatest improvements across all endpoints, including significant increases in hair thickness, density, and length, and a reduction in sebum content and hair loss by Day 56 compared with placebo. The results support further study of topical use of C. asiatica-derived EV with recombinant long-acting growth factors as a novel, naturally derived, cosmetic intervention for scalp and hair care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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52 pages, 989 KB

Open AccessReview

Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles in Cosmetics: Building a Framework for Safety, Efficacy, and Quality

by Letizia Ferroni and Barbara Zavan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 252; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060252 - 10 Nov 2025

Abstract

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, [...] Read more.

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, consumer safety, and scientific credibility. Here, a comprehensive set of minimal characterization guidelines for PDEVs is proposed to include physical and chemical profiling, molecular marker identification, cargo analysis, and stability assessment under storage and formulation conditions. Functional validation through cellular uptake assays, activity tests, and advanced in vitro or ex vivo models that replicate realistic skin exposure scenarios is pivotal. Requirements for transparent labelling, reproducible sourcing, batch-to-batch consistency, and biological activity substantiation to support claims related to skin regeneration, anti-aging, and microbiome modulation are also required. By establishing a harmonized baseline for quality and efficacy evaluation, these guidelines aim to elevate the scientific standards and promote the safe, ethical, and effective use of PDEV-based ingredients in cosmetic and biomedical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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13 pages, 2264 KB

Open AccessArticle

Fractional CO₂ Laser 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine Drug Delivery for Melasma and Facial Hyperpigmentation: A Real-Observational World Experience

by Annunziata Dattola, Emanuele Amore, Simone Amato, Steven Paul Nisticò and Giovanni Pellacani

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 251; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060251 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Melasma and facial hyperpigmentation are common dermatologic conditions that significantly impact patients’ quality of life. New approaches such as laser-assisted delivery of topical agents have been proposed to enhance treatment outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the comparative effectiveness of fractional CO₂ laser-assisted [...] Read more.

Background: Melasma and facial hyperpigmentation are common dermatologic conditions that significantly impact patients’ quality of life. New approaches such as laser-assisted delivery of topical agents have been proposed to enhance treatment outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the comparative effectiveness of fractional CO₂ laser-assisted delivery of 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) versus topical 2-MNG alone in a real-world clinical setting. Methods: Fourteen female patients with mild-to-moderate melasma or hyperpigmentation were enrolled, and eleven completed the 16-week study. Participants were allocated to either the laser +2-MNG group (n = 6) or topical 2-MNG only group (n = 5). Assessments were performed at baseline and every four weeks using VISIA CR^® imaging (visible, UV, and brown spots), Modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), and Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI). Results: Both groups showed significant improvement in visible spots, brown spots, mMASI, and DLQI scores. The laser group showed earlier improvement, with significant changes starting at week 8, while the control group reached significance at week 12. No significant change in UV spot scores was observed. Conclusion: Both approaches were effective in reducing clinically visible pigmentation and improving quality of life. Fractional CO₂ laser-assisted delivery offered a faster onset of efficacy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2377 KB

Open AccessArticle

Multifunctional Effects of N-Carbamylglutamate on Skin-Related Cells: Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Activities

by Sa Rang Choi, Nu Ri Song, Seo Yeon Shin, Ki Min Kim, Jae Hee Byun, Seon Ju Kim, Dai Hyun Jung, Su Jung Kim and Kyung Mok Park

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 250; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060250 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore [...] Read more.

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore its suitability as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, this study examines the protective role of NCG in counteracting UV-stimulated oxidative and inflammatory responses in skin cells. NCG significantly reduced UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), indicating strong antioxidant properties. It also inhibited matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity, preserving collagen integrity and reducing wrinkle formation. In addition, NCG suppressed nitric oxide (NO) production and downregulated key inflammatory mediators—including cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin-6 (IL-6)—highlighting its anti-inflammatory potential. Furthermore, NCG reduced melanin production and the expression of melanogenesis-related factors such as the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. These findings support the role of NCG as a promising multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and skin-brightening properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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23 pages, 4391 KB

Open AccessArticle

Rice Germ Oil and Ferulic Acid Effects on Hair

by Marisanna Centini, Giulia Signori, Fabrizio Francescon, Fumi Tsuno, Tomoki Oguro and Cecilia Anselmi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 249; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060249 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Hair can be significantly damaged following exposure to environmental agents and physical and chemical treatments. The aim of this study concerned the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy of a hair mask containing two rice derivatives: rice germ oil GX-N and ferulic [...] Read more.

Hair can be significantly damaged following exposure to environmental agents and physical and chemical treatments. The aim of this study concerned the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy of a hair mask containing two rice derivatives: rice germ oil GX-N and ferulic acid. This evaluation was performed on hair damaged by bleaching, UV irradiation, and heat treatment by applying the following techniques: FT-IR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy), a stress–strain test, polarized light microscopy analysis, and protein loss determination. The application of the masks highlighted an improvement in the characteristics of the hair. Rice germ oil GX-N showed very interesting and protective properties in all the treatments; however, the inclusion of a low concentration of ferulic acid did not provide additional benefits. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 2286 KB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Characterization of Cosmetic Creams Based on Natural Oils from the Rosaceae Family

by Katya Hutova, Velichka Andonova, Natalina Panova, Ivan Ivanov, Krastena Nikolova and Viliana Gugleva

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 248; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060248 - 6 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Creams are one of the most used cosmetic formulations due to their hydrating and restoring properties, pleasant texture, and the possibility to deliver hydrophobic and hydrophilic active ingredients. The study aims to develop and characterize cosmetic creams based on natural-sourced ingredients—different vegetable [...] Read more.

Background: Creams are one of the most used cosmetic formulations due to their hydrating and restoring properties, pleasant texture, and the possibility to deliver hydrophobic and hydrophilic active ingredients. The study aims to develop and characterize cosmetic creams based on natural-sourced ingredients—different vegetable oils from the Rosacea family: (1) Chaenomelis japonica seed oil, (2) Rosa canina seed oil, (3) Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, alone and in combination (4), along with silk protein (sericin) and astaxanthin. Methods: The creams were prepared by the hot homogenization method and were characterized in terms of rheological properties, spreadability, and antioxidant activity. Results: Two suitable formulations were selected as feasible for cosmetic application—the model containing Chaenomelis japonica seed oil exhibiting the highest antioxidant activity (47% higher vs. the model based on rosehip oil by FRAP method) and the highest spreadability values among the tested formulations (ranging between 61.57 and 69.34 mm). The second selected optimal formulation is the model based on a combination of oils characterized by the most suitable consistency and high antioxidant activity. Conclusions: The differences in their rheological behavior suggest as feasible application of Japanese quince oil cream its use as a daycare antioxidant cream, whereas the mixed oils-based cream model may potentially serve as a night cream for restorative and antioxidant care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 369 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy of Needle and Microneedle Mesotherapy in Reducing Signs of Skin Aging—A Split-Face Comparative Study

by Agnieszka Surgiel-Gemza, Beata Mysiak and Julita Zdrada-Nowak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 247; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060247 - 6 Nov 2025

Abstract

Introduction: Major manifestations of facial skin aging include the loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles, and various pigmentary changes. Mesotherapy—both needle and microneedle-based—is a commonly chosen procedure that effectively revitalizes and stimulates the skin. The aim of this study was [...] Read more.

Introduction: Major manifestations of facial skin aging include the loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles, and various pigmentary changes. Mesotherapy—both needle and microneedle-based—is a commonly chosen procedure that effectively revitalizes and stimulates the skin. The aim of this study was to compare the effectiveness of both techniques in reducing the signs of skin aging using a product containing fragmented hyaluronic acid and an amino acid complex. Materials and Methods: The study included 20 female participants aged 35–60 years who underwent a series of four treatment sessions in a split-face design. One side of the face was treated with needle mesotherapy, while the other side received microneedle mesotherapy. In each session, 5 mL of a preparation containing fragmented hyaluronic acid, glutathione, stabilized vitamin C, and an amino acid complex was administered. Skin parameters (hydration, pH, sebum level, erythema, and pigmentation), photographic documentation, participants’ subjective evaluations, and pain scores were assessed. Results: Both techniques led to significant improvements in skin condition. Microneedle mesotherapy was more effective in enhancing hydration, regulating sebum and pH, and was better tolerated in terms of pain. Needle mesotherapy demonstrated greater efficacy in reducing pigmentation. Patient satisfaction was high in both groups. Conclusions: Both needle and microneedle mesotherapy are effective treatments for aging skin, although their mechanisms of action differ. The choice of technique should be tailored to the individual needs of the skin and the expectations of the patient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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