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Cosmetics

Cosmetics is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI. 

Quartile Ranking JCR - Q1 (Dermatology)

All Articles (1,351)

Ceramides are central to stratum corneum barrier organization and hydration. Beyond topical replenishment, ceramide-stimulating strategies increasingly aim to enhance endogenous ceramide biosynthesis, processing, and homeostatic remodeling in coordination with keratinocyte differentiation. In this review, we summarize the three major metabolic routes that shape epidermal ceramide output—de novo synthesis, salvage, and sphingomyelin hydrolysis—and organize representative bioactive ingredients by their primary molecular targets rather than by origin. Specifically, we map ingredients to tractable regulatory nodes, including transcriptional “liposensors” (PPAR/LXR), the induction of biosynthetic/elongation and processing enzymes (e.g., SPT, CerS3, ELOVL4), the provision of structural substrates and precursors (e.g., linoleate-rich lipids and glycosylceramides), salvage-pathway sphingoid bases that can reshape ceramide subclass output, and metabolic sensing/stress-response pathways centered on AMPK–mTOR–SIRT1/autophagy. Across these mechanisms, agents spanning botanical and fermented extracts, vitamins, sphingoid intermediates, lipid precursors, and pathway modulators (including autophagy-focused probes) have been reported to increase ceramide abundance and, in some contexts, favor barrier-relevant ultra-long-chain species and ω-O-acylceramides that support lamellar organization and the corneocyte lipid envelope. Translational and clinical studies in dry, sensitive, and aged skin generally associate such interventions with improved barrier function and reduced dryness. Aligning ingredient selection with defined biosynthetic and processing checkpoints—and verifying outcomes with lipidomics alongside clinical endpoints—may accelerate the development of evidence-based, ceramide-stimulating cosmetics.

1 January 2026

Overview of Major Ceramide Metabolic Pathways and Regulation Mechanisms. This schematic illustrates ceramide as the central metabolic hub, outlining its primary biosynthesis (De novo, SM hydrolysis, salvage) and catabolism pathways, along with key enzymatic inhibitors and biological factors that modulate its homeostasis based on refs. [13,14]. ER, endoplasmic reticulum; SPT, Serine Palmitoyltransferase; KDSR, 3-Ketodihydrosphingosine Reductase; CerS, Ceramide Synthase; DES1, Dihydroceramide Desaturase 1; SMS, Sphingomyelin Synthase; SMase, Sphingomyelinase; CerK, Ceramide Kinase; CerS, Ceramide Synthase; GCS, Glucosylceramide Synthase; D-PPMP, D-threo-1-phenyl-2-decanoylamino-3-morpholino-1-propanol; CDase, Ceramidase; NOE, N-oleoylethanolamine; DMAP, 4-(Dimethylamino)-pyridine; SphK, Sphingosine Kinase; S1P, Sphingosine-1-phosphate; SPL: Sphingosine-1-phosphate Lyase; TNF-α, Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha; IFN-γ, Interferon-gamma. Arrows indicate the direction of metabolic conversion; bar-headed lines indicate inhibition.

Post-oncologic skin is subject to multiple structural and functional impairments following chemotherapy and radiotherapy, including delayed epidermal turnover, compromised barrier integrity, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These changes can lead to persistent dryness, heightened reactivity, impaired regeneration, and reduced patient quality of life. In this context, topical dermocosmetic strategies are essential not only for improving comfort and hydration, but also for supporting key cellular pathways involved in mitochondrial protection and oxidative stress reduction. Despite the promise of natural antioxidant actives, their cutaneous efficacy is often limited by poor stability, low bioavailability, and insufficient penetration of the stratum corneum. The use of nanocarriers promotes deeper skin penetration, protects oxidation-prone antioxidant compounds, and enables a controlled and prolonged release profile. This review summarizes the current evidence (2020–2025) on skin delivery systems designed to enhance the efficacy, stability, and skin penetration of antioxidants. Knowledge gaps and future directions are outlined, highlighting how rationally engineered delivery systems for mitochondria-targeted actives could contribute to safer, more effective strategies for post-oncologic skin regeneration.

29 December 2025

Mitochondrial oxidative stress as a driver of skin dysfunction. Overproduction of mitochondrial reactive oxygen species leads to redox imbalance, reduced ATP synthesis, and mtDNA damage, resulting in impaired cellular metabolism and mitochondrial integrity. These changes contribute to barrier disruption, inflammation, reduced regenerative capacity, and hair loss at the tissue level [own work].

Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not been systematically characterized. This study aimed to investigate the effect of increasing walnut leaf extract concentration on the rheological profile, mechanical integrity during application, and sensory performance of oil-in-water creams. Methods: Four emulsion formulations (F1–F4) containing 0%, 1%, 3%, and 5% walnut leaf extract were prepared using Olivem 1000 and Olivem 300 as emulsifiers. Rheological measurements included amplitude sweep, flow curve, frequency sweep, and thixotropy tests to assess viscoelasticity, flow behavior, and recovery. A sensory evaluation was conducted by trained panelists to correlate rheological parameters with perceived product attributes. Results: All formulations exhibited pseudoplastic, shear-thinning behavior in well-structured cosmetic emulsions during application. The addition of walnut extract significantly modified rheological responses: at 1% concentration, an increase in storage modulus (G′) and shear-thinning ratio (η0/η∞) indicated structural reinforcement and improved spreadability, whereas higher concentrations (3–5%) led to structural softening and faster thixotropic recovery. The frequency sweep revealed a concentration-dependent shift from elastic- to viscous-dominant behavior. Sensory analysis confirmed these trends, with higher extract levels reducing stickiness and greasiness while enhancing absorption. Conclusions: Walnut leaf extract shows a concentration-dependent influence on the rheological behavior of the emulsions, strengthening the network structure at low levels while promoting softening and faster structural recovery at higher concentrations. The strong correlation between rheological and sensory parameters underscores the potential of walnut extract as a multifunctional ingredient for designing well-structured, non-greasy, and consumer-preferred cosmetic creams.

26 December 2025

Flow curves (viscosity vs. shear rate) for emulsion creams F1–F4.

Introduction: Artificial intelligence (AI) has developed into an increasingly important tool in dermatology. While new technologies integrated within laser devices are emerging, there is a lack of data on the applicability of publicly available AI models. Methods: The prospective study used an online questionnaire where participants evaluated diagnosis and treatment for 25 dermatological cases shown as pictures. The same questions were given to AI models: ChatGPT-4o, Claude Sonnet 4, Gemini 2.5 Flash, and Grok-3. Results: Dermatologists outperformed AI in diagnostic accuracy (suspected primary diagnosis-SD 75.6%) in pooled dermatologists vs. pooled AI (SD 57.0%), with laser specialists achieving the highest accuracy (SD 82.0%) and residents the lowest (SD 66.0%). There was a high heterogeneity across AI models. Gemini approached dermatologist performance (SD 72.0%), while Claude showed a low accuracy (SD 40.0%). While AI models reached near 100% accuracy in some classic/common diagnoses (e.g., acne, rosacea, spider angioma, infantile hemangioma), their accuracy dropped to near 0% on rare or context-dependent cases (e.g., blue rubber bleb nevus syndrome, angiosarcoma, hirsutism, cutaneous siderosis). Inter-rater agreement was high among laser experts in terms of diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice. Agreement between residents and AI models was highest for diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice, while it was lowest between experts and AI models. Conclusions: Before AI-based tools can be integrated into daily practice, particularly regarding diagnosis and appropriate laser treatment recommendations, specific supervised medical training of the AI model is necessary, as open-source platforms currently lack the ability to contextualize presented data.

26 December 2025

Diagnostic accuracy for each group of evaluators in detail.

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The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics - Volume II
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Cosmetics - ISSN 2079-9284