Cosmetics

20 pages, 760 KB

Open AccessReview

Genetic Insights into Acne, Androgenetic Alopecia, and Alopecia Areata: Implications for Mechanisms and Precision Dermatology

by Gustavo Torres de Souza

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 228; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050228 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Chronic dermatological conditions such as acne vulgaris, androgenetic alopecia (AGA), and alopecia areata (AA) affect hundreds of millions worldwide and contribute substantially to quality-of-life impairment. Despite the availability of systemic retinoids, anti-androgens, and JAK inhibitors, therapeutic responses remain heterogeneous and relapse is common, [...] Read more.

Chronic dermatological conditions such as acne vulgaris, androgenetic alopecia (AGA), and alopecia areata (AA) affect hundreds of millions worldwide and contribute substantially to quality-of-life impairment. Despite the availability of systemic retinoids, anti-androgens, and JAK inhibitors, therapeutic responses remain heterogeneous and relapse is common, underscoring the need for biologically grounded stratification. Over the past decade, large genome-wide association studies and functional analyses have clarified disease-specific and cross-cutting mechanisms. In AA, multiple independent HLA class II signals and immune-regulatory loci such as BCL2L11 and LRRC32 establish antigen presentation and interferon-γ/JAK–STAT signalling as central drivers, consistent with clinical responses to JAK inhibition. AGA is driven by variation at the androgen receptor and 5-α-reductase genes alongside WNT/TGF-β regulators (WNT10A, LGR4, RSPO2, DKK2), explaining follicular miniaturisation and enabling polygenic risk prediction. Acne genetics highlight an immune–morphogenesis–lipid triad, with loci in TGFB2, WNT10A, LGR6, FASN, and FADS2 linking follicle repair, innate sensing, and sebocyte lipid metabolism. Barrier modulators such as FLG and OVOL1, first described in atopic dermatitis, further shape inflammatory thresholds across acne and related phenotypes. Together, these findings position genetics not as an abstract catalogue of risk alleles but as a map of tractable biological pathways. They provide the substrate for patient-stratified interventions ranging from JAK inhibitors in AA, to endocrine versus morphogenesis-targeted strategies in AGA, to lipid- and barrier-directed therapies in acne, while also informing cosmetic practices focused on barrier repair, sebaceous balance, and follicle health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

39 pages, 3509 KB

Open AccessReview

Fatty Amines in Detergents and Cosmetics: Current State and Biocircular Perspectives

by Maria-Beatrice Coltelli, Annabel Serpico, Rosa Domenech, Mar Tronch, Carolina Galli, Paolo Sonzini, Clara Escrivà-Cerdán, Sergio Mastroianni, Andrea Lazzeri, Domenico Licursi and Anna Maria Raspolli Galletti

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 227; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050227 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Fatty amines are nitrogen-containing organic compounds synthesized from fatty acids, olefins, or alcohols, typically derived from natural oils or petrochemical sources. These molecules generally feature long hydrophobic alkyl chains ranging from C8 to C22 and can be positively charged on the nitrogen atom, [...] Read more.

Fatty amines are nitrogen-containing organic compounds synthesized from fatty acids, olefins, or alcohols, typically derived from natural oils or petrochemical sources. These molecules generally feature long hydrophobic alkyl chains ranging from C8 to C22 and can be positively charged on the nitrogen atom, which confer pronounced cationic surface activity. This property makes them highly effective as emulsifiers, conditioning agents, antistatic agents, and surfactants, particularly in industrial formulations and personal care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and creams. Historically, the production of fatty amines has relied heavily on petrochemical feedstocks, contributing significantly to greenhouse gas emissions, particularly CO₂. In response to growing environmental concerns, there is an increasing shift toward renewable and sustainable raw materials, aligning with the principles of the circular economy. The cosmetics and detergent industries are at the forefront of this transition, actively integrating bio-based ingredients to minimize ecological impact. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the sources, synthetic pathways, and applications of fatty amines. It highlights their functional roles in detergents and cosmetic formulations and explores scientific and technological strategies aimed at enhancing sustainability across the fatty amine supply chain. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

22 pages, 4274 KB

Open AccessArticle

Enhanced Bioavailability and Stability of Curcumin in Cosmeceuticals: Exploiting Droplet Microfluidics for Nanoemulsion Development

by Nikolaos D. Bikiaris, Afroditi Kapourani, Ioannis Pantazos and Panagiotis Barmpalexis

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 226; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050226 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Curcumin (Cur), a natural polyphenolic compound with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, faces significant challenges in cosmeceutical applications due to its poor aqueous solubility and low bioavailability. Nanotechnology offers a promising approach to overcome these limitations and enhance the functionality of cosmetic formulations. [...] Read more.

Curcumin (Cur), a natural polyphenolic compound with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, faces significant challenges in cosmeceutical applications due to its poor aqueous solubility and low bioavailability. Nanotechnology offers a promising approach to overcome these limitations and enhance the functionality of cosmetic formulations. In this work, Cur-loaded nanoemulsions (NEs) were developed using a droplet microfluidics technique to enhance Cur’s stability, bioavailability, and permeability for advanced cosmeceuticals. Various oils were screened for Cur solubility, with coconut oil demonstrating the highest capacity. Optimal oil-to-water flow ratios were determined to produce monodisperse NEs with controlled droplet sizes. Characterization via dynamic light scattering (DLS) revealed stable NEs with Z-potential values exceeding −30 mV at both room temperature and +4 °C for up to 21 days, indicating strong colloidal stability. Antioxidant activity was evaluated through DPPH assays, while in vitro permeability studies of the drug-loaded NEs after incorporation into suitable hydrogels, using Strat-M^® membranes mimicking human skin, demonstrated significantly enhanced penetration of the encapsulated Cur. In sum, this work highlights the potential of droplet microfluidics as a scalable and precise method for producing high-performance Cur NEs tailored for cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

24 pages, 1358 KB

Open AccessReview

Valorization of Date Seed Waste for Sustainable Dermocosmetic Sunscreens: Phytochemical Insights and Formulation Advances

by Nassima Siroukane, Abdelhakim Kheniche and Lynda Souiki

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 225; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050225 - 15 Oct 2025

Abstract

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in [...] Read more.

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in vitro, ex vivo, and preclinical studies underscore their potential as bioactive agents in sunscreen formulations, supporting both skin barrier integrity and oxidative stress mitigation, although clinical validation is still required. This review consolidates current knowledge on the phytochemical profile and biological efficacy of date seed derivatives, with emphasis on their integration into advanced delivery systems such as nanocarriers, Pickering emulsions, and cyclodextrin complexes to enhance photostability, skin permeability, and esthetic acceptability. Safety aspects, including allergenicity, phototoxicity, and regulatory gaps, are critically examined alongside environmental and ethical advantages, including biodegradability and vegan suitability. The findings advocate for the inclusion of Phoenix dactylifera L. seed actives in next-generation dermocosmetic sunscreens that align with circular bioeconomy principles, consumer demand for “reef-safe” products, and evolving international regulations. Further clinical validation is encouraged to fully translate these botanically derived agents into effective and ethically sound sun care innovations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

15 pages, 3000 KB

Open AccessArticle

Jellybush Honey Extract: A Solution for Enhanced Wound Healing and Scar Reduction Across Diverse Skin Phototypes

by Julie Leignadier, Marty Shortt, Florence Turgeon, Philippe Daigle and Joan Attia

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 224; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050224 - 14 Oct 2025

Abstract

Wound healing dysregulation often results in visible scarring with significant psychological impact, particularly affecting individuals with darker skin phototypes. This study investigates the efficacy of an aqueous extract of Australian Jellybush honey (Leptospermum polygalifolium) in improving scar appearance across diverse skin [...] Read more.

Wound healing dysregulation often results in visible scarring with significant psychological impact, particularly affecting individuals with darker skin phototypes. This study investigates the efficacy of an aqueous extract of Australian Jellybush honey (Leptospermum polygalifolium) in improving scar appearance across diverse skin tones. Our research demonstrated the extract reduced IL-8 production by 42%, decreased reactive oxygen species by 14.6%, and increased pro-collagen I synthesis by 28%. Ex vivo experiments revealed a 44% increase in neo-epidermal tongue length after 10 days while gene expression analysis showed coordinated wound healing through timed modulation of key markers such as filaggrin, matrix metalloproteases, keratins. In a double-blind clinical study involving 21 volunteers (phototypes II–VI) with acne scars, 8-week application of 2% Jellybush honey extract improved skin homogeneity by 15%, reduced scar surface area by 3% and decreased atrophic and hypertrophic scars dimensions by 9% and 16%, respectively, versus placebo. These improvements were consistent across all phototypes, including V-VI. Jellybush honey extract offers a promising approach for scar management through balanced modulation of wound healing pathways across all skin phototypes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

22 pages, 29108 KB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Aging Efficacy of a Multi-Peptides–Silybin Complex: Mechanistic Insights and a 56-Day Clinical Evaluation

by Hong Zhang, Huiping Hu, Chenlan Xu, Lina Wang, Ying Ye, Jiefang Huang, Yuyan Chen, Feng Liao, Yanan Li and Peiwen Sun

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 223; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050223 - 10 Oct 2025

Abstract

Peptides are widely used in cosmetic formulations to stimulate extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis, while silybin (a flavonolignan from Silybum marianum) offers retinol-like benefits through antioxidant and photoprotective activity. This study evaluated a novel anti-aging cream combining seven bioactive peptides with silybin to [...] Read more.

Peptides are widely used in cosmetic formulations to stimulate extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis, while silybin (a flavonolignan from Silybum marianum) offers retinol-like benefits through antioxidant and photoprotective activity. This study evaluated a novel anti-aging cream combining seven bioactive peptides with silybin to assess synergistic effects on ECM regeneration and clinical skin rejuvenation. In vitro assays in human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes revealed that the formulation rapidly upregulated gene and protein expression of collagen types I, III, IV, and XVII and lysyl oxidase (LOX) within 4–16 h. Ex-vivo, ultraviolet (UV)-damaged skin explants treated with the peptide–silybin complex showed enhanced recovery of collagen, elastic fibers, and LOX versus untreated controls. A 56-day clinical study (n = 31) demonstrated significant improvements in wrinkle area and volume, elasticity (+12.5%), firmness (+20.7%), and dermal density (+78%, all p < 0.001). No adverse effects were reported, and over 80% of participants noted improved skin texture and firmness. These findings highlight a novel synergy between peptides and silybin, with rapid ECM activation and clinical efficacy. To our knowledge, this is the first evidence of a cosmetic peptide formulation significantly upregulating LOX expression, suggesting a new mechanism for strengthening dermal architecture and improving skin resilience. Future studies should elucidate the mechanisms underlying these effects and assess whether other botanicals confer complementary benefits when combined with peptide blends. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

23 pages, 24756 KB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Effectiveness, Duration and Anti-Aging Properties of Sofiderm^® Hyaluronic Acid Filler: An Analysis Based on VisiaCR5 Data

by Giordano Vespasiani, Simone Michelini, Federica Trovato, Laura Nesticò, Giuseppina Ricci, Stefania Guida and Giovanni Pellacani

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 222; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050222 - 10 Oct 2025

Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers and botulinum toxin remain among the most frequently requested non-surgical esthetic procedures, due to their favorable safety profile and ability to restore volume and improve skin quality. However, variability in product performance and the lack of objective measurement tools [...] Read more.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers and botulinum toxin remain among the most frequently requested non-surgical esthetic procedures, due to their favorable safety profile and ability to restore volume and improve skin quality. However, variability in product performance and the lack of objective measurement tools remain challenges in clinical practice. This prospective, single-arm, non-randomized pilot study aimed to assess the esthetic efficacy, tolerability, and duration of effect of Sofiderm^® HA fillers in Caucasian patients with signs of facial aging, and to explore the correlation between subjective visual grading and instrumental imaging outcomes. Five patients with Griffiths photoaging scores ranging from 4 to 8 were treated with different Sofiderm^® formulations. Standardized evaluations were performed at baseline, 2 months, and 9 months using VISIA-CR and PRIMOS 3D optical profilometry. All subjects experienced measurable improvements, with an average 2-point reduction in Griffiths scores at 2 months, maintained at 9 months in most cases. Objective imaging data confirmed enhancements in volume, texture, and surface regularity. No serious adverse events occurred. These findings suggest that Sofiderm^® fillers may offer sustained esthetic benefits with a favorable safety profile and demonstrate how integrated digital imaging can enhance treatment evaluation in esthetic dermatology. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

14 pages, 841 KB

Open AccessReview

Cosmetic Considerations of Semaglutide

by Alaina Baggett, Carissa Saadi, Robert Saadi and Vijay Patel

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 221; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050221 - 9 Oct 2025

Abstract

Semaglutide-induced facial changes, or “Ozempic face” popularized by media, have gained increasing recognition since the widespread and growing use of Ozempic (semaglutide) for weight loss. It refers to facial volume depletion and soft tissue laxity following rapid weight loss associated with this medication. [...] Read more.

Semaglutide-induced facial changes, or “Ozempic face” popularized by media, have gained increasing recognition since the widespread and growing use of Ozempic (semaglutide) for weight loss. It refers to facial volume depletion and soft tissue laxity following rapid weight loss associated with this medication. Semaglutide use can also cause gastrointestinal side effects, volume loss, and decrease skin quality not only in the face but globally. As the use of Ozempic becomes increasingly popular, more patients are presenting to cosmetic clinics for these undesirable esthetic changes. While cosmetic changes following rapid weight loss is not new, such as those following bariatric interventions, the accessibility and ease of GLP-1, Glucose-like protein-1, makes this a growing concern among the community. It is important for clinicians to recognize these potential effects, counsel patients appropriately, and give options for treatment. This emerging esthetic concern highlights the need for further investigation into underlying causes, risk factors, and potential interventions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

19 pages, 1013 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Effectiveness of Micro-Needle Mesotherapy with Seboregulatory Ampoule in the Treatment of Oily Skin

by Agnieszka Ciozda, Ewelina Firlej and Joanna Bartosińska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 220; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050220 - 8 Oct 2025

Abstract

Background: Contemporary dermatology and cosmetology continue to explore effective strategies for normalizing the function of oily skin, where excessive sebum production and impairment of the hydrolipid barrier pose considerable therapeutic challenges. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effects [...] Read more.

Background: Contemporary dermatology and cosmetology continue to explore effective strategies for normalizing the function of oily skin, where excessive sebum production and impairment of the hydrolipid barrier pose considerable therapeutic challenges. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effects of a series of microneedling mesotherapy treatments with a sebum-regulating ampoule on selected biophysical parameters of the skin in individuals with oily skin. Methods: The study included 19 female volunteers aged 18–42 years, who underwent six treatment sessions at three-week intervals. Skin parameters were assessed at baseline, after three sessions, and after six sessions using the MPA system (Courage & Khazaka) equipped with the following probes: Corneometer (hydration), Sebumeter (sebum secretion), pH meter (surface pH), Glossymeter (skin shininess), and Tewameter (transepidermal water loss). Results: After six sessions, hydration significantly increased both in the T-zone (from 43.9 ± 8.0 to 54.0 ± 5.4 AU; +23%) and on the cheeks (from 35.9 ± 8.3 to 55.6 ± 4.8 AU; +55%) (p < 0.001). Sebum secretion decreased markedly, with values in the T-zone falling from 192.2 ± 30.6 to 127.7 ± 27.2 AU (−34%) and on the cheeks from 185.0 ± 36.2 to 114.8 ± 30.1 AU (−38%) (p < 0.001). Skin surface pH showed minor but significant modulation within the physiological range (T-zone: 6.33 ± 0.64 → 6.01 ± 0.17; cheeks: 6.14 ± 0.50 → 6.03 ± 0.17; p = 0.021). TEWL demonstrated a nonsignificant change (T-zone: 17.46 ± 11.31 → 19.09 ± 3.54 g/m²/h; cheeks: 20.89 ± 5.36 → 18.37 ± 2.95 g/m²/h; p > 0.05), while skin gloss remained stable (T-zone: 5.46 ± 1.25 → 5.60 ± 1.16 GU; cheeks: 5.29 ± 1.76 → 4.87 ± 1.20 GU; p > 0.05). Conclusions: Microneedling mesotherapy combined with a sebum-regulating ampoule significantly improved skin hydration and reduced sebum secretion, accompanied by stabilization of skin surface pH. Although changes in TEWL and gloss were not statistically significant, the overall results indicate improved skin condition and balance. Despite the absence of a control group, these findings support the potential of this combined approach as an adjunctive therapy for oily skin. Further controlled studies with larger cohorts are warranted to confirm its efficacy and long-term effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

15 pages, 1023 KB

Open AccessArticle

Clay-Based Cosmetic Formulations: Mineralogical Properties and Short-Term Effects on Sebum Regulation and Skin Biomechanics

by Fernanda Daud Sarruf, Michele Georges Issa, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco, Catarina Rosado and André Rolim Baby

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 219; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050219 - 4 Oct 2025

Abstract

The growing demand for dermocosmetics with ingredients of natural origin reflects the pivotal role of cutaneous health and appearance in consumer self-esteem. Under this context, clays have attracted attention for their potential applications in dermatological care. Our research work aimed to increase knowledge [...] Read more.

The growing demand for dermocosmetics with ingredients of natural origin reflects the pivotal role of cutaneous health and appearance in consumer self-esteem. Under this context, clays have attracted attention for their potential applications in dermatological care. Our research work aimed to increase knowledge on the short-term impact of cosmetic formulations containing a blend of red, green, and black clays, assessing their effects on sebum regulation and in cutaneous biomechanical behavior (firmness/elasticity). Unlike daily skincare products, clay masks are used infrequently and for short durations; thus, an in vivo assessment was conducted after a 2-h application to reflect typical consumer use. The mineralogical and physicochemical properties of the different clays were characterized. Mineralogical analysis revealed distinct compositions among the clays: black clay exhibited a simpler mineral profile, lower density, and smaller particle size; green clay contained expandable smectite and was the densest; and red clay displayed the largest average particle size and highest iron content. Thermal analysis identified two major transitions: dehydration and kaolinite dehydroxylation. In vivo studies conducted in participants showed a significant reduction in skin oiliness across all clay-based formulations compared to baseline, control, and placebo following a 2-h application, and the rebound sebum production was dependent on clay concentration. Cutometry measurements did not reveal statistically significant improvements in skin firmness or elasticity compared to the control and placebo. The findings suggested that while clay-based formulations effectively reduced skin oiliness in the short term, their impact on sebum regulation and on skin biomechanical properties was limited after such a short product application period. Additional studies are warranted to elucidate the distinct effects of each clay, assess their behavior in different formulation bases, and evaluate their efficacy after repeated use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

14 pages, 1785 KB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation of Topical Antioxidant Creams with Hydroxycitrate or Aglianico Del Vulture Red Wine Extract for the In Vitro Prevention of Blue Light-Induced Oxidative Stress

by Ilaria Pappalardo, Immacolata Faraone, Anna Santarsiero, Alessandra Miraglia, Paolo Convertini and Antonio Vassallo

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 218; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050218 - 3 Oct 2025

Abstract

This study presents the formulation of two natural antioxidant creams based on an oil-in-water emulsion system, incorporating either hydroxycitrate (HCA) from Garcinia cambogia (Gaertn.) or red wine powder (RWP) derived from Aglianico del Vulture red wine (Vitis vinifera L.). HCA, a derivative [...] Read more.

This study presents the formulation of two natural antioxidant creams based on an oil-in-water emulsion system, incorporating either hydroxycitrate (HCA) from Garcinia cambogia (Gaertn.) or red wine powder (RWP) derived from Aglianico del Vulture red wine (Vitis vinifera L.). HCA, a derivative of citric acid, and RWP, rich in polyphenolic compounds, were chosen for their bioactive properties. The creams underwent a series of in vitro tests to assess their stability, cytocompatibility, and antioxidant properties. Cellular assays using HaCaT keratinocytes showed that both formulations were effective in reducing blue light-induced oxidative damage. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

23 pages, 2159 KB

Open AccessArticle

Single-Locus, Interaction, and Functional Pathway Analyses of Acne Severity in a 60-SNP Panel

by Valentina Russo, Laura Vila-Vecilla, Albert Sanchez Guerrero, Laura Gascón Madrigal, Caroline Brandão Chiovatto and Gustavo Torres de Souza

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 217; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050217 - 2 Oct 2025

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a multifactorial disease with high heritability, but the genetic determinants of severity remain incompletely defined. This study evaluated 650 individuals genotyped with a 60-single-nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) panel covering immune, lipid, endocrine, and barrier pathways. Acne severity was graded as 1 [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a multifactorial disease with high heritability, but the genetic determinants of severity remain incompletely defined. This study evaluated 650 individuals genotyped with a 60-single-nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) panel covering immune, lipid, endocrine, and barrier pathways. Acne severity was graded as 1 (n = 193), 2–3 (n = 383), or 4 (n = 74). Single-SNP analysis highlighted associations in loci such as LHCGR (rs13405728), TGF-β2 (rs1159268), FST (rs38055), WNT10A (rs74333950), PIK3R1 (rs10515088), and THADA (rs13429458) and barrier-related variants (FLG, FLG-AS1). Epistasis analysis of 44 quality-controlled SNPs revealed 190 significant interactions (false discovery rate, FDR ≤ 0.10), with TLR4 as the main hub (degree = 22), bridging immune (IL10, TNF), lipid (PNPLA3, APOE), and barrier (FLG-AS1, OVOL1) genes. Polygenic risk scoring (PRS) showed a monotonic increase across severity grades, with Grade 4 displaying higher median scores (0.319) compared to Grade 1 (−0.129) and Grades 2–3 (0.034). Discrimination was modest but consistent (AUC: 0.661 for Grade 4 vs. 1; 0.662 vs. 2–3; 0.679 vs. all others). These results support a framework where microbial sensing, lipid metabolism, and barrier function converge to drive severe acne, underscoring the potential of genetic profiling for risk stratification and precision therapy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

17 pages, 312 KB

Open AccessReview

The Science and Evolutionary Perspective of Beautiful Skin

by Fernando Valenzuela, Daniza Bilicic, Dan Hartmann and Catalina Retamal

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 216; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050216 - 2 Oct 2025

Abstract

Quality skin has long been a symbol of health and attractiveness, reflecting both genetic and environmental influences. Multiple elements contribute to beautiful skin. This complex topic influences modern dermatological practices and skincare approaches. This article reviews and explores the characteristics that define beautiful [...] Read more.

Quality skin has long been a symbol of health and attractiveness, reflecting both genetic and environmental influences. Multiple elements contribute to beautiful skin. This complex topic influences modern dermatological practices and skincare approaches. This article reviews and explores the characteristics that define beautiful skin, integrating physical attributes with the scientific foundations that underpin them. It also delves into the evolutionary significance of skin appearance and the impact of visible skin conditions on social and psychological well-being. Additionally, it reviews advances in dermatological treatments and preventive measures aimed at achieving beautiful skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

11 pages, 640 KB

Open AccessArticle

Exposure Intensity Index (EII): A New Tool to Assess the Pollution Exposure Level of the Skin

by Paola Perugini, Camilla Grignani and Mariella Bleve

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 215; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050215 - 25 Sep 2025

Abstract

Air pollution is known to affect skin health, but tools to objectively measure individual exposure based on skin responses are limited. This study introduces the Exposure Intensity Index (EII), a novel tool that correlates lifestyle-related pollution exposure with skin parameters. A panel of [...] Read more.

Air pollution is known to affect skin health, but tools to objectively measure individual exposure based on skin responses are limited. This study introduces the Exposure Intensity Index (EII), a novel tool that correlates lifestyle-related pollution exposure with skin parameters. A panel of 250 women residing in Lombardy completed a detailed questionnaire on socio-demographic features and daily habits, from which an exposure score was derived. Non-invasive bioengineering techniques were used to assess skin parameters, focusing on inflammation-related signs. A positive correlation emerged between exposure scores and variations in specific skin parameters, suggesting a link between daily pollution exposure and skin alterations. The EII emerges as a preliminary exploratory approach to estimate environmental impact on the skin through its correlation with biophysical parameters. It may offer future value for subject selection in in vivo testing of antipollution cosmetic claims. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

16 pages, 290 KB

Open AccessReview

Dermoscopy of Facial Dermatoses: An Updated Review

by Nika Filipović Mioč, Paola Negovetić, Klara Gaćina and Marija Buljan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 214; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050214 - 25 Sep 2025

Abstract

Dermoscopy is an essential, non-invasive diagnostic tool that has transformed the evaluation of pigmented skin lesions and is nowadays also increasingly recognized for its utility in general dermatology. Originally developed for the early detection of melanoma, dermoscopy now aids in diagnosing a wide [...] Read more.

Dermoscopy is an essential, non-invasive diagnostic tool that has transformed the evaluation of pigmented skin lesions and is nowadays also increasingly recognized for its utility in general dermatology. Originally developed for the early detection of melanoma, dermoscopy now aids in diagnosing a wide range of non-neoplastic skin disorders—including inflammatory, infectious, and infiltrative conditions—by revealing morphological features invisible to the naked eye. Among these, facial dermatoses represent a diagnostically challenging group of disorders with overlapping clinical presentations. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the latest literature on dermoscopy in general dermatology, with a specific focus on facial dermatoses. Relevant information for this article was obtained through a comprehensive PubMed search using disease names along with the terms ‘dermoscopy’ and ‘dermatoscopy’. Despite its growing relevance, this field remains underexplored, largely due to the lack of standardized dermoscopic criteria and inconsistent terminology, which pose challenges to broader clinical implementation. Nonetheless, current evidence highlights the promising role played by dermoscopy as an adjunctive diagnostic method, particularly when used by experienced clinicians in combination with detailed patient history and clinical examination. Dermoscopy of facial dermatoses has the potential to significantly improve diagnostic precision in everyday practice. With continued research, greater standardization, and wider clinician training, dermoscopy is well-positioned to become as integral to the diagnosis of inflammatory and infectious dermatoses as it is to skin cancer detection. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

13 pages, 1497 KB

Open AccessArticle

Photoprotective Effect of Hydroxychloroquine on Human Keratinocytes

by Luis Alfonso Pérez González, María Antonia Martínez Pascual, Elena Toledano Macías, Rosa Cristina Jara Laguna, Montserrat Fernández Guarino, Stefano Bacci, Jorge Naharro Rodriguez and María Luisa Hernández Bule

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 213; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050213 - 22 Sep 2025

Abstract

Hydroxychloroquine (HCQ), an antimalarial commonly used in autoimmune and dermatological conditions, may exert photoprotective effects, though its role against high-energy visible light (HEVL) remains underexplored. This study evaluated HCQ’s impact on cell viability and oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCat cells) exposed to [...] Read more.

Hydroxychloroquine (HCQ), an antimalarial commonly used in autoimmune and dermatological conditions, may exert photoprotective effects, though its role against high-energy visible light (HEVL) remains underexplored. This study evaluated HCQ’s impact on cell viability and oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCat cells) exposed to HEVL blue light. Cells were treated with HCQ (1, 2.5, or 5 µM) and irradiated with blue light doses (4.5–72 J/cm²). Assays assessed cell viability (XTT), reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, and the expression of oxidative stress-related enzymes: superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GPX), and catalase (CAT). Results showed that low blue light doses triggered endogenous protective responses, which HCQ enhanced, potentially via SOD activation. However, higher irradiation levels caused extensive cellular damage that overwhelmed HCQ’s protective capacity. These findings suggest HCQ may confer in vitro photoprotection against sublethal HEVL exposure by modulating oxidative stress responses, although this effect diminishes beyond a certain damage threshold. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

12 pages, 1947 KB

Open AccessArticle

Exploratory Evaluation of a Hyper-Diluted Calcium Hydroxyapatite–Hyaluronic Acid Combination for Facial Rejuvenation: A Pilot Study

by Luca Ambrosio, Alessandra Cecchini, Giovanni Pellacani and Claudio Conforti

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 212; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050212 - 22 Sep 2025

Abstract

Facial aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors causing soft tissue volume loss, skin laxity, and wrinkles; minimally invasive fillers combining calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and hyaluronic acid (HA) may mitigate these changes. This pilot study explored the feasibility, safety, and preliminary efficacy of [...] Read more.

Facial aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors causing soft tissue volume loss, skin laxity, and wrinkles; minimally invasive fillers combining calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and hyaluronic acid (HA) may mitigate these changes. This pilot study explored the feasibility, safety, and preliminary efficacy of a hyper-diluted 1:1 CaHA-HA combination in nine patients (30–65 years) with mild-to-moderate facial volume loss and laxity. Injections were delivered to affected areas using blunt-tip cannulas and fine needles. Clinical outcomes were measured with the Merz Aesthetic Scale (MAS), Wrinkle Severity Rating Scale (WSRS), and Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), while adverse events and patient satisfaction were recorded. MAS showed notable improvements in upper cheek fullness, lower cheek fullness, and jawline contour (+0.94, +0.94, and +0.89, respectively), and WSRS nasolabial fold severity decreased from 3.28 ± 0.18 to 2.50 ± 0.00 (p < 0.0001) with large effect sizes (Cohen’s d > 5.0). All patients rated themselves “very improved” on GAIS; no adverse events were reported, and satisfaction was high. These preliminary findings suggest that hyper-diluted CaHA–HA may be a safe and promising minimally invasive approach for facial rejuvenation, although confirmation in larger, controlled studies with longer follow-up is required. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

30 pages, 4182 KB

Open AccessReview

Advances in Extraction Technologies of Silybum marianum L. and Its Role in Protecting Against Skin Damage

by Oumayma Iraqi, Mariam Jalal, Issam El Mouzazi, Mourad Jbene, Youness Taboz and Amar Habsaoui

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 211; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050211 - 21 Sep 2025

Abstract

Silybum marianum L., commonly known as milk thistle, is traditionally recognized for its hepatoprotective properties. This is primarily due to silymarin, a mixture of flavonolignans with strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Although many studies have reported on its biological activities, critical syntheses that [...] Read more.

Silybum marianum L., commonly known as milk thistle, is traditionally recognized for its hepatoprotective properties. This is primarily due to silymarin, a mixture of flavonolignans with strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Although many studies have reported on its biological activities, critical syntheses that compare extraction technologies and highlight its protective roles beyond liver health remain limited. Despite the abundant literature, the protective effects of milk thistle against skin damage remain largely unexplored. To address this gap, we performed a comprehensive literature search across PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar. Our research covered publications up to February 2025 and used predefined keywords, including extraction methods for the release of silymarin, in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies relevant to its protective effects against skin damage. The evidence indicates that silymarin exerts protective effects on the skin, including the prevention of photoaging, the management of acne, the promotion of wound healing, and the defense against UV-induced damage, through the activation of Nrf2 and the preservation of the extracellular matrix. These results highlight the promising dermatological benefits of silymarin, as well as the need for further clinical studies and the optimization of environmentally sustainable extraction techniques for large-scale production. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

16 pages, 2391 KB

Open AccessArticle

Extracts from Dark Tea with Dual Effects of Anti-Melanogenesis and Prevention of Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

by Xiaoxiao Duo, Jingting Wang, Chunxia Wu, Jianming Deng, Yuancheng Huang, Min Yu, Kinka Ri, Guangli Wang and Jing Wang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 210; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050210 - 18 Sep 2025

Abstract

(1) Background: The pursuit of ingredients that possess both anti-melanogenesis and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) prevention effects has become a new research frontier in cosmetics, though there is little work on plant extract-derived ingredients in this direction. (2) Methods: The study involved evaluating the [...] Read more.

(1) Background: The pursuit of ingredients that possess both anti-melanogenesis and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) prevention effects has become a new research frontier in cosmetics, though there is little work on plant extract-derived ingredients in this direction. (2) Methods: The study involved evaluating the impact of dark tea extract on melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16 cells. Meanwhile, Ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated assays were conducted on HaCaT cells to assess the secretion of inflammatory factors (IL-1α and IL-1β) and paracrine melanogenic factors (α-MSH, bFGF, and ET-1). Additionally, we performed quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) tests to determine whether the signaling pathways of anti-melanogenesis and PIH punctuation are incorrect. (3) Results: The results showed that dark tea extract significantly inhibited melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16 cells. In HaCaT cells, the extract reduced the secretion of the aforementioned inflammatory and paracrine melanogenic factors, thereby inhibiting PIH. Moreover, the RT-PCR and the Western Blot results indicated that the dark tea extract could inhibit the melanogenesis signaling pathway of α-MSH/MC1R/MITF and their downstream multiple targets of TYRP-1, TYRP-2, and TYR in B16 cells, while it exerted a PIH inhibition effect by downregulating the p38 MAPK/Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway. (4) Conclusions: This study suggests that dark tea extract can not only suppress melanogenesis through multiple targets but also can inhibit UVB-induced PIH, hinting at its skin-brightening efficacy as an agent for the restoration of pigmentation disorders. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)

► Show Figures

Figure 1

Journal Description

Cosmetics

Latest Articles

Journal Menu

Journal Browser

Highly Accessed Articles

Latest Books

E-Mail Alert

News

Topics

Conferences

Special Issues

Topical Collections

Further Information

Guidelines

MDPI Initiatives

Follow MDPI