Cosmetics

24 pages, 1319 KiB

Open AccessReview

Peptides in Cosmetics: From Pharmaceutical Breakthroughs to Skincare Innovations

by Yuxiang Tang, Tong Nie, Lu Zhang, Xiaohui Liu and Haiteng Deng

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030107 - 23 May 2025

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, [...] Read more.

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, peptides have gained popularity in the cosmetic field, providing solutions for anti-aging, whitening, moisturizing, and skin repair. Moreover, innovations such as artificial intelligence-assisted peptide design, efficient delivery systems, and the integration of multifunctional ingredients have significantly contributed to the industry’s rapid evolution. This review explores the historical milestones of peptides in medicine and cosmetics, delves into cutting-edge synthesis technologies, and dissects the molecular mechanisms behind their cosmetic properties. Research in medicinal peptides has promoted the development of cosmetic peptides. Despite their potential, challenges such as stability, bioavailability, and cost-effective production remain barriers to widespread adoption. Future studies should focus on enhancing peptide stability, developing synergistic formulations, and conducting large-scale clinical trials to validate long-term efficacy. With continuous innovation, peptides are poised to redefine the cosmetic industry, bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and skincare for safer and more effective solutions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

17 pages, 650 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Epidemiology of Acne in the Current Era: Trends and Clinical Implications

by Dumitrița Lenuța Guguluș, Dan Vâță, Ioana Adriana Popescu, Adriana Ionela Pătrașcu, Ioana Alina Halip, Mădălina Mocanu and Laura Gheucă Solovăstru

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030106 - 22 May 2025

Abstract

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current [...] Read more.

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current global prevalence is approximately 9.4%, reflecting its continued relevance as a public health concern. While early epidemiological studies were predominantly conducted in the United States and United Kingdom, recent data from diverse geographic regions highlight the need for updated, globally representative research. The Global Burden of Disease (GBD) initiative has recognized acne as a condition with a substantial impact on disability-adjusted life years (DALYs), underscoring its contribution to both physical and psychological morbidity. This review aims to synthesize current epidemiological findings, identify high-risk populations, and explore intrinsic and extrinsic factors influencing disease distribution and progression. A deeper understanding of acne’s epidemiology is essential to inform prevention strategies and improve outcomes in dermatological care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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13 pages, 981 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating the Cosmetic Efficacy of Topical Micrococcus luteus Q24 Probiotic Balm: A Pilot Study in Healthy Adults

by Abigail L. Voss, Stephanie A. Mattison, Sonali S. Sali, John D. F. Hale and Rohit Jain

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030105 - 22 May 2025

Abstract

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects of prebiotics and functional actives on M. luteus Q24 were evaluated, identifying oil-based actives, including vitamin E and pomegranate seed oil, that significantly boosted bacterial growth compared to oatmeal, the sole effective prebiotic tested. Subsequently, a pilot cosmetic trial assessed two M. luteus Q24-enriched balms on healthy adults utilising a cutting-edge AI (Artificial Intelligence) driven skin analyser device. Balm B significantly reduced keratin levels, wrinkles, and pore size, and increased hydration, while Balm A effectively reduced spots and keratin. After 4 days of application, Balm A showed mean percentage reductions of 80% in pores, 20% in spots, 60% in wrinkles, and 100% in keratin scores, while Balm B exhibited mean percentage reductions of 100% in pores, 50% in spots, 67% in wrinkles, and 80% in keratin, with a 100% increase in hydration score. Both balms demonstrated compatibility and efficacy, highlighting the potential of M. luteus Q24 in improving skin parameters. These findings suggest that balms optimise the benefits of skin-specific probiotics for microbiome-friendly skincare. Future research with larger, placebo-controlled trials is needed to substantiate these preliminary findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 507 KiB

Open AccessReview

Optimizing Skin Quality via AI-Enhanced Physical Activity

by Niki Tertipi, Eleni Sfyri, Vasiliki Sofia Grech, Vasiliki Kefala and Efstathios Rallis

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030104 - 20 May 2025

Abstract

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending [...] Read more.

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending on skin type, age, fitness level, and environmental exposures. Recent advances in artificial intelligence (AI) offer new opportunities for tailoring exercise programs to meet individual skin health needs. Wearable sensors and smart fitness devices provide real-time data on physiological responses (e.g., heart rate, sweat rate, and oxidative stress) and environmental parameters (e.g., UV exposure and pollution levels). AI algorithms process this data to create dynamic, adaptive exercise routines designed to maximize skin benefits while minimizing potential harm (e.g., exercise-induced oxidative stress in sensitive skin types). This review synthesizes the current evidence on the skin benefits of exercise while exploring the emerging role of AI-driven personalized physical activity as a novel tool in cosmetic dermatology. Integrating AI into fitness planning, personalized, non-invasive skincare strategies may complement traditional topical and procedural approaches, representing a step forward in precision dermatology. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 657 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Microemulsions Loaded with Plinia cauliflora Extract and Fractions for Topical Application Against Cutaneous Mycosis

by Rodrigo Sorrechia, Camila Cristina Baccetti Medeiros, João Vitor Carvalho Constantini, Rafaela Regina Fantatto, Bárbara Regina Kapp, Nathália Ferreira Fregonezi, Ana Melero, Ana Marisa Fusco-Almeida, Marlus Chorilli and Rosemeire Cristina Linhari Rodrigues Pietro

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030103 - 15 May 2025

Abstract

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have [...] Read more.

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have been used in traditional medicine, which has been scientifically proved. The differential in this study was the use of leaves to obtain the ethanolic extract and its fractions and with incorporation in microemulsions that can increase the activity, promoting greater availability of active components in therapeutic targets. Candida glabrata has been very prominent in nosocomial infections and our results were very promising, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration of 4.88 μg/mL for the extract and about a 4-fold decrease with its microemulsion reaching 1.22 μg/mL; for the dermatophytic fungus Trichophyton rubrum, this decreased 2-fold, from 156.25 μg/mL to 78.12 μg/mL. The antioxidant activity was also studied, showing the best results for the extract at 25.6 μg/mL and lastly, the samples were not toxic when the Galleria mellonella model was used. Thus, the results demonstrate the activity of the extract, and that the incorporation was able to increase the antifungal activity in a safe, non-toxic manner, making it possible to provide a therapeutic option for these fluconazole-resistant microorganisms. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 8527 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Study Between Nanoemulsions and Conventional Emulsions as Carriers of Plant Oils: Formulation Approach, Physicochemical Properties, and In Vitro and In Vivo Assessments for Skin Care Application

by Angeliki Liakopoulou, Sophia Letsiou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis and Sophia Hatziantoniou

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030102 - 15 May 2025

Abstract

This study aims to compare nanoemulsions and conventional emulsions as delivery systems for plant oils. For this reason, the formulation approach was evaluated, followed by an assessment of physicochemical properties and stability. Six different compositions of emulsions and their respective nanoemulsions were prepared [...] Read more.

This study aims to compare nanoemulsions and conventional emulsions as delivery systems for plant oils. For this reason, the formulation approach was evaluated, followed by an assessment of physicochemical properties and stability. Six different compositions of emulsions and their respective nanoemulsions were prepared using combinations of solid lipids (beeswax or cocoa butter) with liquid lipids (olive, almond, or apricot oil). Their physicochemical characteristics and their colloidal stability over time were assessed using Dynamic Light Scattering or Static Light Scattering. The performance of samples on the skin was assessed by measuring their occlusion effect (F), while their hydrating effect was assessed on healthy volunteers. The nanoemulsions exhibited improved stability compared to the corresponding conventional emulsions of the same composition. However, all samples (emulsions or nanoemulsions) exhibited a satisfactory occlusive effect (F > 10), mainly at 6 h. In addition, all samples caused increased skin hydration by 10–20% one hour post-application. Nanoemulsions containing plant-origin oils showed better physicochemical stability compared to their corresponding emulsions. The in vivo assessment revealed no skin irritation caused by the samples. Nevertheless, subjective evaluations by volunteers unveil a preference for conventional emulsions, which were perceived as providing a more favorable skin texture, regardless of their composition. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Function Assessment: Applications in Cosmetics and Dermocosmetics)

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16 pages, 2073 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Marine Algae Extract-Loaded Nanoemulsions: A Spectrophotometric Approach to Broad-Spectrum Photoprotection

by Julian Tello Quiroz, Ingrid Andrea Rodriguez Martinez, Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Leonardo Castellanos and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030101 - 15 May 2025

Abstract

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids [...] Read more.

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard^®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics: Nanotechnology and Sustainability in Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 2252 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Molecular and Human In Vivo Study of an Innovative Plant-Derived Multifunctional Peptide Signaling the Collagen and Elastin Pathways and Melanin Production

by Carlotta Bollati, Melissa Fanzaga, Lorenza d’Adduzio and Carmen Lammi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 100; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030100 - 15 May 2025

Abstract

Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased [...] Read more.

Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased collagen (+87.53%) and elastin (+61.29%) production and secretion (+66.29% and +69.74%, respectively) and decreased the Matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and MMP-2 secretion in aged human dermal fibroblasts, vs. aging condition. At the clinical level, Chrono Control Penta was demonstrated to be already active after 2 weeks, promoting a 9.3% reduction in pigmentation after 6 weeks of use, showing its efficacy in promoting skin complexion. Furthermore, it exhibited significant moisturizing (13.05%), anti-wrinkle (11.55%), and purifying effects (12.45%), as well as firming effects (6.35%), after 6 weeks. The peptide was also well tolerated, with no adverse effects reported in clinical patch tests. This timely study presents novel research on a plant derived peptide, Chrono Control Penta, a significantly contribution to the burgeoning cosmetic peptide market. Our rigorous findings make it a new powerful ingredient, offering a comprehensive solution for skin health, and establishing a strong foundation for future research and application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 2994 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel and Reliable Analysis Method Utilizing Hennosides to Improve the Quality Assessment of Lawsonia inermis L. Material Used in Cosmetic Formulations

by Nele Dallmann, Volkmar Vill and Fabian Straske

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 99; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030099 - 14 May 2025

Abstract

Lawsonia inermis L. is renowned for its hair dyeing properties, with henna quality and safety often regulated by restrictions on the lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) content. In henna leaves, lawsone exists as glycosylated precursors, hennosides A, B, and C. Aqueous maceration revealed the sensitivity of [...] Read more.

Lawsonia inermis L. is renowned for its hair dyeing properties, with henna quality and safety often regulated by restrictions on the lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) content. In henna leaves, lawsone exists as glycosylated precursors, hennosides A, B, and C. Aqueous maceration revealed the sensitivity of enzymatic lawsone release, while ethanol extraction inhibited β-glucosidase activity, enabling controlled hennoside extraction. Hennoside A was isolated via RP-column chromatography and characterized using ESI-TOF, ¹H-/¹³C-NMR, COSY, NOESY, HSQC, and HMBC. The purified compound proved suitable as an HPLC reference standard. The acidic hydrolysis of hennoside-rich extracts highlighted the limitations of lawsone-based analysis, underscoring glycosylated precursors as more reliable quality markers. Lawsone quantification via enzymatic or acid catalysis demonstrated varying accuracy in quality control. A hennoside-based approach ensures consistency by estimating the maximum releasable lawsone without inducing its formation, providing a more robust metric for a henna quality assessment. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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16 pages, 5324 KiB

Open AccessArticle

RNA Sequencing Reveals Effects of a New Complex Bath Additive on Cultured Cells

by Norihiro Otani, Kieu D. M. Nguyen, Jiawei Wan, Yasuharu Kanki and Takehito Sugasawa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 98; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030098 - 13 May 2025

Abstract

In recent years, bath additives developed to enhance the physiological benefits of bathing have become a popular part of self-care routines. However, there has been little investigation of the biological effects of these additives, especially in terms of their impact on gene expression. [...] Read more.

In recent years, bath additives developed to enhance the physiological benefits of bathing have become a popular part of self-care routines. However, there has been little investigation of the biological effects of these additives, especially in terms of their impact on gene expression. To bridge this research gap, this study was implemented to reveal the effects of a newly developed complex bath additive, Karada Totonou ProBath (KTPB), on gene expression, using RNA sequencing (RNA-seq). Two human skin-derived cell lines (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) were treated with KTPB at a final concentration of 100 μg/mL, and RNA extracted between 15 and 240 min after treatment was subjected to RNA-seq analysis. The results showed that KTPB induced significant changes in the expression of over 80 genes in both cell lines. In particular, the expression levels of genes encoding Early Growth Response Protein 1 and Hyaluronic Acid Synthases increased over time following the treatment. Enrichment analysis showed the upregulation of pathways associated with cell activation in both cell types, with no evidence of KTPB-related cytotoxicity. The findings suggest that KTPB activates the metabolism of skin cells through hormesis without inducing toxicity. Our results provide new insights promoting future research in this field. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)

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8 pages, 1112 KiB

Open AccessCase Report

Successful Treatment of Hair Loss and Restoration of Natural Hair Color in Patient with Alopecia Areata Due to Psychological Disorder Using Exosomes: Case Report with 6-Month Follow-Up

by Emanuel Barbosa Bento, Cláudia Matos and Howard Lopes Ribeiro Junior

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030097 - 12 May 2025

Abstract

Alopecia areata (AA) is an autoimmune disorder causing non-scarring hair loss, which is often triggered by psychological stress. Conventional treatments, such as corticosteroids and immunotherapy, show variable efficacy and can cause side effects like hair discoloration. Exosome therapy, utilizing extracellular vesicles, presents a [...] Read more.

Alopecia areata (AA) is an autoimmune disorder causing non-scarring hair loss, which is often triggered by psychological stress. Conventional treatments, such as corticosteroids and immunotherapy, show variable efficacy and can cause side effects like hair discoloration. Exosome therapy, utilizing extracellular vesicles, presents a promising alternative, though its use in stress-related AA remains underexplored. A 39-year-old male with unifocal AA on the right parietal scalp developed hair loss following emotional distress after his fiancée’s death. Methotrexate and prednisolone were ineffective, prompting a bioregenerative approach using rose stem cell-derived exosomes (RSCEs) combined with thulium laser therapy. Six monthly sessions of RSCEs (20 mg/vial, 10 billion exosomes) were administered, with laser pre-treatment enhancing absorption. Within one month, vellus hair regrowth appeared, progressing to an increased density and pigmentation at three months. By six months, complete regrowth and natural pigmentation were achieved, with reduced inflammation confirmed by trichoscopy. The therapy was well-tolerated, with no adverse effects. This case highlights RSCE therapy as a promising treatment for stress-induced AA, achieving significant regrowth without corticosteroid-related side effects. Further studies are needed to validate its efficacy and refine protocols for broader clinical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovative Vesicular Systems and Natural Extracts for Targeted Drug Delivery, Cosmetics, and Skin Therapeutics)

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47 pages, 653 KiB

Open AccessReview

Frontiers in Topical Photoprotection

by Margaret Sullivan, Constancio Gonzalez Obezo, Zachary Lipsky, Abhishek Panchal and Jaide Jensen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030096 - 10 May 2025

Abstract

This review synthesizes the latest research and developments to take into consideration for creating advanced sun protection products that meet evolving consumer demands. It examines the multifaceted effects of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, blue light, and infrared) on the skin, detailing cellular damage [...] Read more.

This review synthesizes the latest research and developments to take into consideration for creating advanced sun protection products that meet evolving consumer demands. It examines the multifaceted effects of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, blue light, and infrared) on the skin, detailing cellular damage mechanisms, including DNA and RNA damage, and oxidative stress. It covers advancements in sunscreen formulation science, delivery systems, and UV filters. It delves into testing methodology advancements addressing in vivo limitations, new regulatory guidelines, and the integration of artificial intelligence from new UV filter development to consumer facing apps. Finally, it highlights biotechnology’s potential to deliver novel sustainable UV filters. By providing a holistic perspective on these interdisciplinary advancements, this review serves as background reading, informing future sunscreen development and fostering a comprehensive approach to photoprotection that address current and emerging challenges. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)

12 pages, 2608 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Examination of Fungal and Root Extracts Inspired by Traditional Medicine for Potential Periorbital Eye Infrastructure Treatments

by James V. Gruber, Nicole Terpak, Sebastien Massard, Xiang Chen, John Craffey and Robert Holtz

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030095 - 8 May 2025

Abstract

An early indicator of aging may appear around the eyes and the surrounding eye infrastructure. With aging, there come diminishing changes in vascular microcirculation and the accumulation of hemoglobin by-products that gather in the fatty pads beneath the eyes as dark circles, akin [...] Read more.

An early indicator of aging may appear around the eyes and the surrounding eye infrastructure. With aging, there come diminishing changes in vascular microcirculation and the accumulation of hemoglobin by-products that gather in the fatty pads beneath the eyes as dark circles, akin to skin bruising. In addition, the extracellular matrix that surrounds the eye is exposed to external threats like UV radiation, weather and pollution, as well as lifestyle choices that create fatigue. This causes the eyes to express wrinkles well before they begin to appear on the rest of the face, particularly in the corners of the eyes called the crow’s feet region. Consumers spend considerable amounts of resources combatting these effects. If consumers could treat some of the sources of these problems, in advance of the inevitable influences of aging, a kind of prejuvenation of the eye infrastructure, then perhaps the inevitable outcomes of aging apparent around the eyes could be slowed. This paper examines the development and in vitro testing of two unique botanical extracts, one based on a traditional medicine mushroom called Phellinus linteus (Huang Sang) and the other based on a traditional medicine root from the plant Angelica polymorpha sinensis (Dong Quai). When combined, these two extracts create a blend called ANGEL-EYE EFX^® [INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Phellinus Linteus Extract (and) Angelica polymorpha sinensis Root Extract]. There are several key biomolecules of interest present in this blend, including hispolon, dihydrozingerone, and arginine, as demonstrated using advanced liquid chromatography/mass spectral analyses. The individual extracts were also broadly examined using human genomic microarray assays and then more specifically for their ability to influence several important skin proteins associated with undereye skin aging, including CYGB (Human Cytoglobin), OXSR1 (Oxidative Stress Response Kinase-1), LCE3B (Late Cornified Envelope-3B), EGFR (Epidermal Growth Factor Receptor), VEGFA (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor-1), and NINJ1 (Ninjurin-1). It was found that the treatment of Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) with increasing concentrations of the active blend between 0.05 and 2.0% showed statistically significant increases in all the proteins noted except VEGFA, which showed a statistically significant decrease in protein expression with the treatment of the Angelica polymorpha sinensis extract at 1.0%. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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18 pages, 1832 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Personalized Beauty: How Clinical Insights Shape Tailored Aesthetic Treatments

by Sara Campanella and Lorenzo Palma

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030094 - 7 May 2025

Abstract

Aesthetic procedures have advanced significantly, transcending mere vanity to become practical tools for enhancing well-being. The diversity of available aesthetic treatments and products can make it challenging for both professionals and consumers. Consequently, the field of aesthetics has begun to incorporate AI techniques. [...] Read more.

Aesthetic procedures have advanced significantly, transcending mere vanity to become practical tools for enhancing well-being. The diversity of available aesthetic treatments and products can make it challenging for both professionals and consumers. Consequently, the field of aesthetics has begun to incorporate AI techniques. The scope of this article is to evaluate the effects of various cosmetic procedures using the T•modella 5.0 machine and assess their effectiveness. We gathered data from 11 aesthetic centres and 36 subjects with different body constitutions (normal, overweight and obese). This is a prospective, multicenter, interventional study designed to assess the impact of the procedures on the participants. Clustering methods were used to analyse the results, identify trends and evaluate the efficacy. Additionally, we developed a novel algorithm that tailors cosmetic treatment regimens according to the unique physiological characteristics of each patient. The initial weight of patients has been found to influence the efficacy of treatments. Significant improvements have been observed in obese individuals, with reductions of 6% in hip circumference, 8% in waist circumference, and a decrease in fat mass. In contrast, overweight and normal-weight individuals exhibited less consistent outcomes, with results influenced by external factors such as stress, physical exercise, and medication. By utilising clustering techniques, we were able to move beyond traditional weight-based analyses. Based on these findings, we developed a recommendation system that can be integrated into treatment devices to optimise both clinical and aesthetic results. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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14 pages, 2355 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Porosity and Resistance of Textured Hair: Assessing Chemical and Physical Damage Under Consumer-Relevant Conditions

by Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Carolina Botelho Lourenço and Gislaine Ricci Leonardi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030093 - 6 May 2025

Abstract

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, [...] Read more.

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, blow-drying while combing, and styling with a hot flat iron, simulating a consumer routine spanning one to six months. Porosity-related properties were evaluated using swelling test, fluorescence, atomic force, and scanning electron microscopies, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry, and tensile testing. Both chemical and physical processes induced significant changes in the hair’s water permeability, surface topography, and appearance, alongside a reduction in mechanical and thermal properties, indicating substantial structural alterations compared to virgin hair. Increased porosity compared to virgin hair possibly reduced the heat conductivity of bleached hair, leading to less pronounced effects of heat exposure. These findings underscore the damaging potential of routine practices for textured hair and emphasize the need for targeted cosmetic solutions to protect and repair these fibers as part of consumers’ hair care regimens. Full article

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22 pages, 3465 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Biological Activities and Cytotoxicity of Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr Extracts and Investigation of Its Novel Natural Active Ingredient-Loaded Nanoemulsion and Stability Assessment

by Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Ranit Charoenjittichai, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Pimchanok Charoongchit and Eakkaluk Wongwad

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030092 - 2 May 2025

Abstract

Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr. (Acanthaceae family) has traditionally been used as a natural food colorant and in the treatment of various diseases. However, its biological activities—particularly its anti-glycation and anti-lipid peroxidation properties—as well as the development of novel nanoemulsions incorporating crude P. bivalvis [...] Read more.

Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr. (Acanthaceae family) has traditionally been used as a natural food colorant and in the treatment of various diseases. However, its biological activities—particularly its anti-glycation and anti-lipid peroxidation properties—as well as the development of novel nanoemulsions incorporating crude P. bivalvis leaf extracts for cosmetic applications, have not yet been reported. The aim of this study was to explore the potential of P. bivalvis leaf crude extracts as an active ingredient in nanocosmetics. Various solvents, including deionized water, 95% ethanol, and 1% HCl in 50% ethanol were used to macerate the plant material. These crude extracts were subsequently screened for their phytochemical constituents, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, as well as antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-lipid peroxidative activities, and fibroblasts cytotoxicity. In addition, a nanoemulsion containing P. bivalvis crude extracts was formulated using high-speed homogenization. The formulation was characterized in terms of pH, viscosity, particle size, polydispersity index, and entrapment efficiency. Furthermore, its stability was evaluated under accelerated conditions and at different storage temperatures (room temperature, 4 °C, and 45 °C). The results indicated that P. bivalvis extracts obtained using deionized water and 95% ethanol contained various phytochemical constituents, along with higher contents of total phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant, anti-glycation, and anti-lipid peroxidative activities, as well as the lowest fibroblast cytotoxicity, compared to extracts obtained with 1% HCl in 50% ethanol. The nanoemulsions loaded with P. bivalvis ethanolic extracts exhibited a reddish-orange color, whereas those containing P. bivalvis water extracts exhibited a reddish-purple coloration, depending on its pH value. These nanoemulsions demonstrated greater stability at low temperatures, with particle sizes within the nanoscale range and a narrow polydispersity index. These findings suggest that P. bivalvis extracts obtained from deionized water and 95% ethanol are potential active ingredients that were successfully incorporated into nanoemulsion-based cosmetics formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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15 pages, 2033 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Anti-Aging Properties of the Glycopeptide- and Glycoprotein-Enriched Fraction from a Cosmetic Variation of the Longevity Medicine, Gongjin-Dan

by Gwang Jin Lee, Jiwon Park, Hyeon Jun Jeon, Tae Heon Kim, Hyejin Lee, Seongsu Kang, Seung Jin Hwang, Nam Seo Son and Nae-Gyu Kang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030091 - 1 May 2025

Abstract

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the [...] Read more.

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the oriental medicine Gongjin-dan (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, deer antler, and musk), which has been used as a restorative drug for longevity. Enzyme-based extraction and chemical purification were used to obtain a mixed fraction (GEF) enriched in glycopeptides and glycoproteins from the five herbal materials. The chemical characteristics of GEF, including the carbohydrate groups attached to the peptides and proteins, the total carbohydrate and protein contents, and the composition of monosaccharides and amino acids were determined. The chemical characteristics that were significantly different from those of the extract, generally prepared in the same ratio, were the abundance of glycopeptides and glycoproteins and the high proportions of conditionally essential amino acids (51.0%) and acidic/basic amino acids (67.7%). These are necessary components for strengthening the skin layers against aging. The in vitro skin anti-aging properties of GEF on human fibroblasts (HS68), keratinocytes (HaCaT), and adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADMSCs) were evaluated. It was found that MMP-1 gene expression was inhibited (18–28%) and fibrillin-1 protein (23–37%) was restored contrary to the effect of UV irradiation. COL1A1 and COL4A1 gene expression (25–35%), HAS2 gene expression (22–213%), and adipogenesis (15%) were facilitated. These results demonstrate the potential of GEF as a raw material for skin anti-aging and reinforce the scientific evidence supporting a traditional medicine with a long history. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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23 pages, 6860 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetic Potential of Haberlea rhodopensis Extracts and Extracellular Vesicles in Human Fibroblast Cells

by Milena Georgieva, Bela Vasileva, Penyo Ivanov, Kamelia Hristova-Panusheva, Tsvetelina Paunova-Krasteva, Ivan Lesov, Zlatina Gospodinova, Natalia Krasteva, George Miloshev and Vasil Georgiev

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030090 - 1 May 2025

Abstract

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological [...] Read more.

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological and functional changes. This study investigates the impact of Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts, native and enriched with EVs, on key cellular processes, including morphology, mitochondrial dynamics, lysosomal activity, gene expression, and genotoxicity in human dermal fibroblasts. The extracellular vesicles were identified in terms of shape, size, and morphology using dynamic light scattering, negative staining and observation under a transmission electron microscope. A comprehensive in vitro analysis was conducted utilizing light microscopy to assess cellular morphology and lysosomal mass, fluorescence microscopy for actin cytoskeletal organization, mitochondrial integrity, and nuclear morphology, and gene expression profiling for markers associated with collagen synthesis (COL1A1, COL3A1), senescence (CDKN1A), and oxidative stress response (NFE2L2). Additionally, cell cycle progression was evaluated, and genotoxicity was assessed using the neutral comet assay. Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and EVs were found to preserve fibroblast morphology, enhance mitochondrial mass, and upregulate collagen-related gene expression. These effects were concentration-dependent. The extracts exhibited biocompatibility with minimal genotoxic effects, indicating their potential as safe bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation. The findings suggest that Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and their enrichment with extracellular vesicles hold promise for cosmetic and dermatological applications, particularly in enhancing collagen production, preserving cellular integrity, and mitigating age-related alterations in skin fibroblasts. Further studies are warranted to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms and optimize formulation strategies for clinical translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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15 pages, 3082 KiB

Open AccessArticle

New Test Methods for Extractables in No-Wipe Topcoat Gel Polish: Extraction and Quantitation of Uncured Monomers After UV Curing

by Laurisa London-Dawodu, Xuejun J. Yin and Sunan Yuvavanich

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030089 - 1 May 2025

Abstract

Background: Nail gels are decorative fingernail coatings based on (meth)acrylates that are photopolymerized on the nail surface. After polymerization, these coatings typically retain an uncured layer of monomers at the air interface due to oxygen inhibition, which may pose a risk of skin [...] Read more.

Background: Nail gels are decorative fingernail coatings based on (meth)acrylates that are photopolymerized on the nail surface. After polymerization, these coatings typically retain an uncured layer of monomers at the air interface due to oxygen inhibition, which may pose a risk of skin sensitization unless removed. No-wipe topcoats are formulated to address this issue by curing fully; however, no standard test method exists to verify a complete cure. This study presents a method to quantify residual uncured traces of several common nail gel monomers extracted from polymerized commercial no-wipe nail gels. Method: Commercially available no-wipe nail gels were formed into films of controlled thickness and polymerized using a standard UV-curing nail lamp. Solvent extraction was employed to eliminate residual uncured monomers, namely diethylene glycol dimethacrylate (DEGDMA), isobornyl acrylate (IBOA), and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA). These monomers were quantified utilizing GC-FID and HPLC techniques. Method validation was conducted with samples of known monomer identity and concentration, thereby establishing specificity, linearity, precision, and detection limits. Results: Validated test protocols were established for the analysis of residual uncured traces of three commonly used monomers in nail gel coatings. In all instances, levels of monomer residue in a cured gel coating were found to range from 56 µg/g to 800 µg/g. Tests conducted on commercial products indicated that levels of these monomers fell within the expected normal ranges for such products. Conclusions: Through the utilization of two chromatographic techniques, three analytical methods were established for the simultaneous determination of ingredient concentrations and residual monomer quantities in unreacted bulk formula and cured UV-gel film. These methods and the resultant data facilitate the evaluation of curing completeness, which is essential for product development and safety assessments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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