Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: JCR - Q2 (Dermatology) / CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 21.5 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 4.7 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the first half of 2024).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.4 (2023)
Latest Articles
Design, Development, and In Vivo Testing of the Hydrating Effect and pH Maintenance a Cosmetic Formulation Incorporating Oils and an Extract from Peruvian Biodiversity
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040129 - 26 Jul 2024
Abstract
Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing
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Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Apigenin and Phloretin Combination for Skin Aging and Hyperpigmentation Regulation
by
Alfredo Martínez-Gutiérrez, Javier Sendros, Teresa Noya and Mari Carmen González
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 128; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040128 - 26 Jul 2024
Abstract
Melasma is a pathology with multifactorial causes that results in hyperpigmentation of sun-exposed areas, particularly facial skin. New treatments targeting the different factors regulating this condition need to be effective with and have limited adverse effects. Here, we describe a novel combination of
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Melasma is a pathology with multifactorial causes that results in hyperpigmentation of sun-exposed areas, particularly facial skin. New treatments targeting the different factors regulating this condition need to be effective with and have limited adverse effects. Here, we describe a novel combination of two natural compounds (apigenin and phloretin) that has synergistic effects regulating melanogenesis in vitro. Both compounds inhibit Wnt-stimulated melanogenesis and induce autophagy in melanocytes. Apigenin induces DKK1, a Wnt pathway inhibitor, and reduces VEGF, a melanogenesis and proangiogenic factor, in fibroblasts. Moreover, apigenin induces miR-675, a melanogenesis inhibitor miRNA that is reduced in melasma skin in melanocytes. Both compounds showed senomorphic effects by regulating extracellular-matrix-related genes in senescent fibroblasts. Topical application of the compounds also showed significant melanin reduction in a reconstructed human epidermis after 7 days. Thus, the combination of apigenin and phloretin shows promising results as an effective topical treatment of skin hyperpigmentation conditions.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Unwanted Skin Reactions to Acrylates: An Update
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Liborija Lugović-Mihić, Eva Filija, Vanja Varga, Lana Premuž, Ena Parać, Renata Tomašević, Ema Barac and Bruno Špiljak
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 127; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040127 - 25 Jul 2024
Abstract
Acrylates and methacrylates, though common in a wide variety of products, especially in the dental industry, can cause adverse skin reactions. These compounds, including 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and bisphenol A-glycidyl methacrylate, are strong contact irritants or allergens. Found in dental prostheses,
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Acrylates and methacrylates, though common in a wide variety of products, especially in the dental industry, can cause adverse skin reactions. These compounds, including 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and bisphenol A-glycidyl methacrylate, are strong contact irritants or allergens. Found in dental prostheses, composite resins, dentin bonding materials, and glass ionomers, they pose a higher risk of exposure for dental personnel. Clinically, acrylate allergies manifest as facial rashes, eczema with cracked skin on fingers (pulpitis), nail dystrophy, and periungual dermatitis. Recently, however, the highest frequency of allergic reactions to acrylates has been observed in the beauty industry due to increased use in artificial nails, eyelashes, and hair extensions. This has led to greater sensitization. Acrylates are also used in medical applications such as bone cement for orthopedic endoprostheses, soft contact lenses, hearing aids, histological preparations, and wound dressings, which can also cause allergic reactions. For example, acrylates in surgical glue can cause severe dermatitis, and diabetic medical devices are also potential sources of allergic contact dermatitis. Given the extensive use and prolonged skin contact of products containing acrylates and methacrylates, this review aims to present current knowledge from the literature on reactions to these compounds across different industries.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Harnessing the Potential of Helinus integrifolius in Cosmeceutical Research: Toward Sustainable Natural Cosmetics
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Hlalanathi Y. Gwanya, Afika-Amazizi N. Mbuyiswa, Ompelege J. Phokwe, Nomagugu Gxaba and Madira C. Manganyi
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 126; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040126 - 24 Jul 2024
Abstract
The growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic formulations has driven scientists to explore a wide range of botanical resources. Helinus integrifolius, a lesser-known botanical entity, has recently emerged as a formidable contender in this field. This review explores the
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The growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic formulations has driven scientists to explore a wide range of botanical resources. Helinus integrifolius, a lesser-known botanical entity, has recently emerged as a formidable contender in this field. This review explores the possibility of incorporating Helinus integrifolius in the cosmetics industry, synthesizing data from the literature on pharmacological, botanical, and cosmetic research. Additionally, this highlights the versatility and multipurpose nature of this botanical resource in cosmetic applications. Furthermore, concerns regarding the safety of contemporary cosmetic products, formulation compatibility, and regulatory aspects are addressed to accelerate its integration into cosmetic products. Ultimately, this review highlights the untapped potential of Helinus integrifolius as a treasured resource for the cosmetics industry, emphasizing its ability to meet the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly, effective, and naturally inspired cosmetic solutions. Through thorough exploration and analysis, this paper aims to stimulate further research and development initiatives aimed at harnessing the cosmetic capabilities of Helinus integrifolius, thus contributing to the advancement of innovation in natural cosmetics.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
The Frequency Ranking of Occurrence of Individual Ingredients in Hair Care Cosmetics Available on the Polish Market
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Justyna Żwawiak, Joanna Walentkowska, Lucjusz Zaprutko and Anna Pawełczyk
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 125; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040125 - 22 Jul 2024
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The Polish market of cosmetics is highly rich in different types of hair care preparations. A great number of Polish and foreign cosmetic companies and brands mean that finding care products ideal for a given person should be trouble-free. Unfortunately, a wide selection
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The Polish market of cosmetics is highly rich in different types of hair care preparations. A great number of Polish and foreign cosmetic companies and brands mean that finding care products ideal for a given person should be trouble-free. Unfortunately, a wide selection is both an advantage and a problem when a customer is doubtful about how a given cosmetic can work and what an individual’s hair really needs. Reading the composition of cosmetics, the potential user can recognize the needs of their skin or hair, which affects taking more conscious care and choosing the right cosmetics with more attention. This article assesses which ingredients and types of ingredients are present in the largest number of preparations and in the highest positions in the composition. This is a comparison of ingredients present in the largest amounts between four groups of hair cosmetics: care products with washing properties (shampoos), care products without washing properties (conditioners), preparations that are aqueous solutions (water cosmetics), and preparations that are not aqueous solutions (waterless cosmetics). It was revealed that the vast majority of all high-ranking ingredients are substances responsible for the functionality of hair cosmetics: surfactants, rheology regulators, substances responsible for foaming properties, emulsifiers, and solvents. The huge number of substances that can be used in hair products imposes the fact that the ingredients of the highest rank will be substances with many applications and, at the same time, are those that form the base of the cosmetic.
Full article
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Open AccessArticle
In Vitro Toxicity Evaluation of Some Plant Extracts and Their Potential Application in Xerosis cutis
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Adelina Ghica, Mariana Luiza Tănase, Cristina Mariana Niculițe, Anca Tocilă, Liliana Popescu, Emanuela Alice Luță, Octavian Tudorel Olaru, Violeta Popovici, Teodora Dalila Balaci, Ligia Elena Duțu, Rica Boscencu and Cerasela Elena Gîrd
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 124; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040124 - 21 Jul 2024
Abstract
Xerosis cutis represents one of the most common dermatological diagnoses, which, when untreated, can be the trigger for open wounds, infections, and other skin diseases. Plant extracts are a valuable option for long-term treatments for xerosis due to their phytocompounds, especially polyphenols, flavonoids,
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Xerosis cutis represents one of the most common dermatological diagnoses, which, when untreated, can be the trigger for open wounds, infections, and other skin diseases. Plant extracts are a valuable option for long-term treatments for xerosis due to their phytocompounds, especially polyphenols, flavonoids, triterpenes, and polysaccharides, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, moisturizing, and reparatory effects. Active substances have different mechanisms; therefore, evaluating the effects on the cells can be a key indicator, providing valuable information in terms of both cytotoxicity and efficacy. The in vitro and in vivo toxicity tests performed for Betulae extractum, Liquiritiae extractum, and Avenae extractum highlighted potential toxic effects at higher concentrations in a dose-dependent relationship, but at lower levels they can be considered safe (12.5 µg/mL for birch and licorice extracts, 50 µg/mL for oat extract). Concerning the re-epithelialization process, the results revealed that all three dry extracts effectively stimulate skin cell migration, highlighting a potential anti-inflammatory effect by increasing the cell migration rate in conditions of induced inflammation associated with oxidative stress. Among the tested concentrations with a potential contribution to wound healing, the following standout: are birch bark extract 3 μg/mL, licorice root extract 7.5 µg/mL, and oat herb (harvested before flowering) extract 7.5 µg/mL.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Effects of Lipid Phase Content on the Technological and Sensory Properties of O/W Emulsions Containing Bemotrizinol-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers
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Debora Santonocito, Carmelo Puglia and Lucia Montenegro
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 123; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040123 - 19 Jul 2024
Abstract
Different lipid phase ratios (12, 14, and 16% w/w) were assessed for their ability to affect the technological and sensory properties of O/W emulsions in which bemotrizinol (BMTZ), a broad-spectrum sunscreen agent, was incorporated free or loaded into nanostructured lipid
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Different lipid phase ratios (12, 14, and 16% w/w) were assessed for their ability to affect the technological and sensory properties of O/W emulsions in which bemotrizinol (BMTZ), a broad-spectrum sunscreen agent, was incorporated free or loaded into nanostructured lipid nanocarriers (NLC) to reduce its release from the vehicle and, hence, its skin permeation. The following technological properties were evaluated in vitro: spreadability, viscosity, pH, occlusion factor, BMTZ release, and sun protection factor (SPF). Sensory attributes were assessed by panelists in three different phases: before/during pick-up, rub-in, and after application. Raising the lipid phase ratio led to an increase in viscosity (from 8017 ± 143 cPs to 16,444 ± 770 cPs) and to a corresponding decrease in spreadability (from 9.35 ± 0.21 cm to 7.50 ± 0.10 cm), while the incorporation of BMTZ-loaded NLC determined a decrease in the occlusion factor (from 47.75 ± 1.16 to 25.91 ± 1.57) and an increase in SPF (from 6% for formulations containing 12% lipid phase to 15% for formulations containing 16% lipid phase). No BMTZ release was observed from all emulsions. Sensory attributes were mainly affected by the lipid phase ratio. These results suggest that the lipid phase ratio and BMTZ incorporation into NLC could contribute to determining the technological and sensory properties of O/W emulsions.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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Open AccessArticle
Cosmetic Efficacy of the Topical Probiotic Micrococcus luteus Q24 in Healthy Human Adults
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Isabella J. McLoughlin, Abigail L. Voss, John D. F. Hale and Rohit Jain
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 122; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040122 - 18 Jul 2024
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Probiotics in cosmetics represent a new and burgeoning area of research, attracting attention from cosmetic manufacturers and customers looking for natural or additional alternatives in their skincare regimens. Probiotics not only promote beneficial microbiomes to improve skin health but can also modulate the
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Probiotics in cosmetics represent a new and burgeoning area of research, attracting attention from cosmetic manufacturers and customers looking for natural or additional alternatives in their skincare regimens. Probiotics not only promote beneficial microbiomes to improve skin health but can also modulate the visual, topographical, and mechanical attributes to improve skin quality. This study was conducted in healthy adults to determine the effect of direct skin application of a topical serum formulation containing the live probiotic Micrococcus luteus Q24 on several key cosmetic skin quality parameters and its beneficial impact on the modulation of the skin microbiome. Quantitative changes in various skin parameters were measured using a skin analyser device and skin swabs were analysed using whole-genome sequencing to monitor microbial diversity and levels of probiotic colonization. Compared to the baseline, significant reductions in the pores, spots, wrinkles, and impurities scores, and an increase of 101% in the hydration score were observed. Additionally, 45–80% of participants showed a decrease in pores, spots, wrinkles, and impurities and 90% of participants showed an increase in hydration after 25 days of probiotic serum application. The WGS analysis of the skin swab samples showed a significant increase in the relative abundance of M. luteus Q24. The results from this study indicate that topical application of a serum containing the probiotic M. luteus Q24 offers the benefit of improving skin health quality.
Full article
![](https://pub.mdpi-res.com/cosmetics/cosmetics-11-00122/article_deploy/html/images/cosmetics-11-00122-g001-550.jpg?1721282162)
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Open AccessReview
Regenerative Cosmetics: Skin Tissue Engineering for Anti-Aging, Repair, and Hair Restoration
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Paula Pleguezuelos-Beltrán, Sara Herráiz-Gil, Daniel Martínez-Moreno, Iria Medraño-Fernandez, Carlos León and Sara Guerrero-Aspizua
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 121; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040121 - 15 Jul 2024
Abstract
The quest for youthful, healthy skin and full, vibrant hair has long been a driving force in the dermocosmetics field. However, traditional approaches often struggle to address the underlying causes of aging, damage, and hair loss. Regenerative cosmetics powered by skin tissue engineering
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The quest for youthful, healthy skin and full, vibrant hair has long been a driving force in the dermocosmetics field. However, traditional approaches often struggle to address the underlying causes of aging, damage, and hair loss. Regenerative cosmetics powered by skin tissue engineering offer a transformative alternative. This review explores the emerging field of using engineered skin tissues for cosmetic purposes, focusing specifically on their potential for anti-aging, repair, and hair restoration applications. We discuss how these technologies aim to rejuvenate aging skin by promoting collagen production, reducing wrinkles, and improving overall skin function. Additionally, the use of engineered skin for wound healing and scar reduction is examined, highlighting their potential to improve the appearance and functionality of damaged skin. Finally, we advance the exciting prospects of utilizing skin tissue engineering techniques to regenerate hair follicles, potentially offering solutions for hair loss and promoting denser hair growth.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Optimization of Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Formulation for Cosmetic Application Using Design of Experiments, PART II: Physical Characterization and In Vitro Skin Permeation for Sesamol Skin Delivery
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Margot Cassayre, Auriane Oline, Caroline Orneto, Emmanuel Wafo, Lydia Abou, Alexandre Altié, Magalie Claeys-Bruno, Christophe Sauzet and Philippe Piccerelle
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040120 - 15 Jul 2024
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Our research focuses on evaluating the preliminary stability of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) in order to identify an optimal formulation for studying the skin penetration of SLNs loaded with sesamol, with a view to developing potential cosmetic applications. For this study, SLNs were
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Our research focuses on evaluating the preliminary stability of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) in order to identify an optimal formulation for studying the skin penetration of SLNs loaded with sesamol, with a view to developing potential cosmetic applications. For this study, SLNs were prepared with varying lipid and surfactant compositions and produced through homogenization and ultrasonication. The particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential (ZP), and encapsulation efficiency (EE) were analyzed for the different formulations. We identified OP2Se as the optimal formulation for skin penetration assessment due to its stable PS, PDI, ZP, and EE over time, with a Turbiscan Stability Index (TSI) below 1 after a month, indicating favorable stability conditions. The in vitro skin permeation study compared sesamol-loaded SLNs with a control sesamol hydrogel, revealing controlled release characteristics ideal for localized skin effects without significant bloodstream penetration, attributed to the SLNs’ 200 nm particle size. Further exploration could enhance skin retention and targeting, potentially extending penetration studies and reducing particle size to improve accumulation in hair follicles. Exploring SLN applications beyond sesamol, such as incorporating mineral filters for suncare, offers promising avenues, underscoring SLNs’ versatility in cosmetic formulations and skincare applications.
Full article
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Graphical abstract
Open AccessArticle
The Effect of an Oral Probiotic Mixture on Clinical Evolution and the Gut and Skin Microbiome in Patients with Alopecia Areata: A Randomized Clinical Trial
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María R. Navarro-Belmonte, Ángel Aguado-García, Pedro Sánchez-Pellicer, Eva Núñez-Delegido, Laura Navarro-Moratalla, María Martínez-Villaescusa, Alejandro García-Navarro and Vicente Navarro-López
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040119 - 13 Jul 2024
Abstract
(1) Background: Given the autoimmune nature of Alopecia Areata (AA) and the immunomodulatory properties of probiotics, this trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a probiotic mixture, consisting of Lactobacillus rhamnosus and Bifidobacterium longum strains, as an adjuvant treatment in a group
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(1) Background: Given the autoimmune nature of Alopecia Areata (AA) and the immunomodulatory properties of probiotics, this trial was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a probiotic mixture, consisting of Lactobacillus rhamnosus and Bifidobacterium longum strains, as an adjuvant treatment in a group of AA patients. (2) Method: This study was a 24-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Twenty-six patients with AA were included in this study, and their clinical progression, along with changes in gut and skin microbiota, were analyzed. (3) Results: A higher proportion of AA patients treated with the probiotic formula showed improvement compared to the placebo group, based on both the reduction in the number of AA plaques (56% vs. 30%) and the affected scalp surface area (45% vs. 20%). For “activity”, “inactivity”, and “regrowth”, an improvement in 55%, 67%, and 55% of patients was, respectively, observed in the probiotic group, compared to 50%, 40%, and 30% in the placebo group. No changes were observed in the gut microbiota during the intervention period. Regarding skin microbiota, changes were detected in the probiotic group, with reductions in characteristic genera during the study. (4) Conclusions: To our knowledge, this is the first clinical trial assessing the efficacy of a probiotic product in patients with AA. This probiotic mixture in a routine clinical practice setting appears to improve the course of patients. In addition, the skin microbiota of scalp lesions was modified using the probiotic treatment.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessReview
Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives
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Trang Thi Minh Nguyen, Eun-Ji Yi, Xiangji Jin, Qiwen Zheng, Se-Jig Park, Gyeong-Seon Yi, Su-Jin Yang and Tae-Hoo Yi
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040118 - 11 Jul 2024
Abstract
Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein
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Dynamic wrinkle reduction continues to challenge aesthetic dermatology, predominantly addressed through Botulinumtoxin (Botox) injections. Despite Botox’s robust efficacy with up to an 80% reduction in wrinkle visibility within just one week, its invasive administration and specific mechanism of soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) complex inhibition prompt the exploration of safer, non-invasive alternatives. This review critically assesses recent innovations in non-invasive effects, with a focus on peptides and botanical extracts that exhibit a diverse array of mechanisms including SNARE complex inhibition, modulation of calcium and sodium channels, and interactions with acetylcholine receptors, contributing to their effectiveness in muscle relaxation on dynamic wrinkle approaches. Noteworthy peptides such as Argireline and SYN-Ake replicate the neuromodulatory effects of Botox, achieving up to a 52% reduction in wrinkles within four weeks without injections. Moreover, botanical extracts meet the rising demand for clean beauty solutions by enhancing skin elasticity and health through gentle yet potent mechanisms. However, the main concern with peptides is their low absorption rate, with only six clinical validations regarding Botox-like peptide anti-wrinkle efficacy available. These advancements not only deepen our understanding of cosmetic dermatology but also significantly influence market dynamics and consumer behavior, underscoring their pivotal role in redefining the future landscape of anti-aging effects.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Preliminary Experience with a Cleansing Mousse and a Non-Steroidal Emulsion for the Prevention and Treatment of Acute Radiation Dermatitis in Breast Cancer Patients Undergoing Adjuvant Radiotherapy
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Anna Viola, Emanuele Martorana, Valentina Zagardo and Gianluca Ferini
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040117 - 11 Jul 2024
Abstract
Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which
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Background: Radiation dermatitis (RD) is the most frequent side effect in patients undergoing adjuvant radiotherapy (RT) for breast cancer. Despite the skin-sparing benefits of new RT techniques, most patients develop RD. There is currently no standard treatment to prevent and soothe RD, which is generally managed with emollients, moisturizers, or corticosteroids. We conducted a prospective observational study to evaluate the rate and grade of RD with the application of a cleansing mousse and a non-steroidal emulsion during the adjuvant RT program in patients with breast cancer submitted to surgery. Materials and Methods: A cleansing mousse containing vegetable glycerin (12%), phytoextract of chamomile (0.5%), yarrow phytoextract (0.5%), sweet almond (0.1%), Oenothera oil (0.1%), and rice protein hydrolyzate (0.1%), and an emulsion containing micronized zinc oxide (3.7%), rapeseed phytosterols (1.7%), aloe (0.5%), 18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid (0.5%), alpha bisabolol (0.5%), and zanthalene (0.5%) were offered to breast cancer patients undergoing adjuvant RT to prevent the onset of RD and mitigate its severity. These specific ingredients were selected for their well-known anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties. Skin toxicities were recorded photographically and graded according to the RTOG scoring system. Results: From March 2023 to July 2023, a total of 24 patients with a median age of 59 years (range 42–75) were enrolled. Halfway through the RT treatment, 20 patients (83.3%) had G0 skin toxicity, three (12.5%) G1, one (4.2%) G2. None showed G3–G4 toxicity. At the end of RT, seven patients (29.2%) exhibited G0 skin toxicity, 14 (58.3%) G1, two (8.3%) G2, one (4.2%) G3. No patient developed G4 toxicity. Fifteen days after the end of RT, 13 patients (54.2%) had G0 skin toxicity, 10 (41.1%) G1, one (4.2%) G2, with none showing G3–G4 toxicity. Conclusions: Our data suggest that the tested topicals might be an effective option for preventing and alleviating RD. Further prospective randomized studies are needed to confirm our findings.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Plant Essential Oil Nanoemulgel as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient: A Review
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Xing Fui Yap, Seow Hoon Saw, Vuanghao Lim and Chin Xuan Tan
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040116 - 10 Jul 2024
Abstract
Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their
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Essential oils (EOs) are concentrated, hydrophobic volatile compounds derived from different parts of plants. They are recognized for their diverse and versatile functional properties. Approximately 90% of EOs are administered via topical or transdermal routes. However, EOs are susceptible to oxidation, and their high volatility often poses a challenge to the transdermal delivery of their bioactive constituents. Additionally, the direct application of pure EOs on the skin may result in irritating effects. Hence, various novel carrier systems have been explored for the topical application of EOs. Among these, nanoemulgel has received particular attention from the cosmeceutical industry. It is a hybrid technology combining nanoemulsion and a gelling phase, which can enhance the bioadhesivity of EOs, at the same time minimizing their irritating effects. This review summarizes the methods of EO extraction, steps and factors influencing the preparation of EO nanoemulgel, and characterization parameters for nanoemulgel studies. The potential cosmeceutical applications of EO nanoemulgels as an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and penetration enhancer are also compiled and discussed.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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Open AccessReview
A Spotlight on the Potential of Microscopic Motile Algae as Novel Sources for Modern Cosmetic Products
by
Maya Stoyneva-Gärtner, Blagoy Uzunov and Georg Gärtner
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040115 - 9 Jul 2024
Abstract
The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of
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The recognition and use of algae in the very trend-driven cosmetic industry is progressively increasing. Up to now, the main focus was on large seaweeds and a limited number of microalgae. However, motile microalgae, flagellates, remain underscored in this aspect, although some of them are utilized commercially. Flagellates from different taxonomic groups occupy various habitats and contain bioactive high-value multifunctional compounds, some of which are novel. Moreover, they may simultaneously produce different substances, which together with the development of downstream processing technologies, makes them a promising source for modern biotechnology. The present review covers data on 411 strains, 251 species from 110 genera from 6 phyla, and is oriented generally towards less explored flagellates. It demonstrates their great potential as bearers of interesting novel compounds that can be beneficially applied in modern cosmetics. Safety aspects of both sources and products are also discussed. Considering the gaps in the knowledge, the necessity to expand the research on both well-known and yet unexplored microalgae is shown, encouraging the development of upstreaming processes, including phycoprospecting. Last but not least, this paper outlines the role of living culture collections and of using good taxonomic expertise before running the biochemical tests, cultivation, and bioengineering experiments.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessReview
Itch-Relieving Cosmetics
by
Ju Hee Han and Hei Sung Kim
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040114 - 9 Jul 2024
Abstract
This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to
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This review aims to explore the evolving role of cosmetics in alleviating itch, transcending their traditional aesthetic function. With a focus on formulations enriched with natural oils and other bioactive components, we examine the efficacy and safety of various cosmetic ingredients designed to control itch. Highlighted are ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal, postbiotics, menthol, peppermint, cryosim-1, capsaicin, asivatrep, polidocanol, pramoxine hydrocholoride, and palmitoylethanolamide, which are recognized to reduce itch. Special attention is also given to phytochemicals that can modulate the Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription signaling pathway and carry the potential as an itch-relieving cosmetic ingredient. This review encompasses clinical studies that verify the itch relieving effect of these cosmetic ingredients. By integrating current scientific evidence, we aim to shed light on the potential of anti-itch cosmetics as an adjunct to standard itch treatment, thereby broadening our understanding of their role in dermatological care.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
Open AccessReview
Strategic Approaches in Formulation Development for Atopic Dermatitis
by
Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, Khanh Phan, Ayyah Abdoh, Newton Andreo-Filho, Patricia Santos Lopes, Yousuf Mohammed and Vania Rodrigues Leite-Silva
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040113 - 9 Jul 2024
Abstract
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed
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Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic skin disease, significantly impacting patients’ quality of life. One of the most effective management approaches for AD involves addressing the defective skin barrier by urging AD patients to regularly use suitable moisturizers. Therapeutic moisturizers designed for AD are precisely formulated with ingredients targeting critical and often early symptoms of AD (e.g., itch, inflammation, damaged skin barrier). Dermo-cosmetic products, which are rich in moisturizing and emollient agents contributing to recovery as well as strengthening the skin barrier, have proven to be excellent adjuncts in AD treatment. There are various galenic forms of dermo-cosmetics, such as lotions, gels, creams, foams, and sprays, requiring a rationale in choosing ingredients for the product formulation and development. In addition, the role of moisturizer and emollient therapy to address skin dryness linked to dermatological conditions is hugely dependent on varying chemistry and morphology in the deeper regions of the skin. There are also limits to the efficacy of treatments, corticosteroid side effects, and product sensory appeal, which may decrease patient acceptance and compliance. The objective of this review is thus to offer a comprehensive overview of the critical aspects involved in the development of cosmetic vehicles, as well as a detailed examination of the primary ingredients used in formulations for AD.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
High-Tech Sustainable Beauty: Exploring Nanotechnology for the Development of Cosmetics Using Plant and Animal By-Products
by
Gabriela Braga Barros Nhani, Leonardo Delello Di Filippo, Geanne Aparecida de Paula, Vitoria Ribeiro Mantovanelli, Patricia Pereira da Fonseca, Felipe Mota Tashiro, Diana Coêlho Monteiro, Bruno Fonseca-Santos, Jonatas L. Duarte and Marlus Chorilli
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040112 - 6 Jul 2024
Abstract
In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious living, the cosmetic industry is actively adopting nanotechnology to transform plant and animal by-products into high-value beauty products. This comprehensive review explores the innovative and sustainable approaches for extracting and utilizing bioactive compounds from these by-products.
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In a world increasingly focused on eco-conscious living, the cosmetic industry is actively adopting nanotechnology to transform plant and animal by-products into high-value beauty products. This comprehensive review explores the innovative and sustainable approaches for extracting and utilizing bioactive compounds from these by-products. The application of nanocarrier systems is highlighted for their role in enhancing the delivery efficacy and safety of these ingredients in skincare and beauty products. Consumer demand and environmental concerns drive the shift towards natural and sustainable cosmetic products. Traditional cosmetic production often involves significant ecological impacts, prompting the industry to seek greener alternatives. This review addresses the critical need for sustainable beauty solutions that align with global sustainability goals, particularly those outlined in the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. The review provides valuable insights into current trends and future directions in sustainable cosmetics by focusing on nanotechnology and by-products. The review uniquely integrates nanotechnology with sustainability practices in the cosmetic industry. It details the benefits of using nanocarriers to improve the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of bioactive compounds derived from natural waste. This intersection of high-tech methodologies and sustainability offers a novel perspective on cosmetic innovation. Future research should focus on overcoming the technical, regulatory, and economic challenges of scaling up nanotechnology applications. Investigations should include the development of transparent supply chains, standardization methods for characterizing nanoparticles, and comprehensive lifecycle assessments to ensure environmental safety. Additionally, fostering collaboration between scientific research, industry practices, and consumer education is vital for advancing sustainable practices. This review contributes to the broader discourse on sustainable beauty by presenting a clear pathway for integrating these innovative approaches. It ensures that future cosmetic products meet consumer expectations for efficacy and safety and promote environmental stewardship and a circular economy, ultimately benefiting both the skin and the planet.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)
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Open AccessArticle
Antioxidative Potentials of Eleutherine bulbosa Bulb and Its Utilization in Topical Cosmetic Emulsion
by
Nattakan Panyachariwat, Ampa Jimtaisong and Nisakorn Saewan
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040111 - 6 Jul 2024
Abstract
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The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in
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The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in cosmetic formulation, were employed as green and sustainable extraction solvents. EtOH and PG displayed better candidacy to extract active components from E. bulbosa bulbs than using water, and the mixture of EtOH and PG (EtOH/PG) resulted in the extract with higher bioactive compounds and biological activities compared with using EtOH or PG. The total phenolic content of the EtOH/PG extract was 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL which was about an 18–23% increase from when using single EtOH or PG (70.91 ± 2.30, 74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL). UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis showed that the E. bulbosa bulb extracted in EtOH/PG was composed of naphthalenes, naphthoquinones, anthraquinones, myricetin, quercetin, epicatechin, catechin, epigallocatechin, and their derivatives. The ethanolic crude extract exhibited anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity with the IC50 of 7.76 ± 0.35 and 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL, respectively, and was non-cytotoxic to human dermal fibroblast cells at 0.0001–1 mg/mL. The emulsion cream containing 2%(w/w) E. bulbosa bulb concentrated extract was found cosmetically stable after a one-month stability test under 4 °C, ambient temperature (30–35 °C), 45 °C, fluorescent light, and daylight. However, exposure to sunlight during daytime caused changes in the emulsion’s color with ΔE* of 3.85 ± 0.08, and at 45 °C caused the 12% decrease in DPPH activity of emulsion. The finding of this work heightens the antioxidative and safety potentials of the E. bulbosa bulb in cosmetic preparations.
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Open AccessReview
Cosmetic Packaging: European Regulatory Aspects and Sustainability
by
Silvia Morel, Giulia Mura, Marina Gallarate and Simona Sapino
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040110 - 30 Jun 2024
Abstract
This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and
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This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of various aspects related to cosmetic product packaging, highlighting both advancements and challenges in the field. Initially, it offers a general description of the main materials used in cosmetic containers, including plastic, glass, paper, and aluminum. This is followed by an analysis of the existing EU legislative frameworks that govern cosmetic packaging, encompassing chemical, food, and waste regulations. The paper also discusses recent EU regulatory proposals and guidelines from trade associations aimed at enhancing the sustainability of cosmetic packaging materials. Additionally, the role of recycled and bio-based packaging materials in promoting environmental sustainability is analyzed. Overall, this review aims to provide insights for experts in the field on how to balance safety, functionality, and environmental responsibility in cosmetic packaging.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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