Cosmetics

23 pages, 1324 KB

Open AccessArticle

Dissolvable Face Mask with Liposomal Licorice Extract and Kojic Acid: An Innovative Approach for Skin Brightening

by Theerada Taesotikul, Supusson Pengnam, Thapakorn Charoenying, Boonnada Pamornpathomkul, Prin Chaksmithanont, Prasopchai Patrojanasophon and Chaiyakarn Pornpitchanarong

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 21; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010021 - 14 Jan 2026

Abstract

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial [...] Read more.

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial design to achieve suitable mechanical strength and rapid dissolution. The optimized mask, containing liposomal KA (1% w/v) and licochalcone A (0.025% w/v), was evaluated for antioxidant activity, ex vivo skin deposition, and short-term efficacy (Approval from the Institutional Review Board of Silpakorn University, Thailand; Ethics Approval No. REC 67.1001-146-7726/COA 68.0320-013 Date of registration: 20 March 2025). The optimized liposomes exhibited a mean particle size of 66–72 nm, entrapment efficiency above 65%, and a zeta potential of −12.5 mV (licochalcone A) and −1.67 mV (KA). Liposomal licochalcone A and KA showed potent antioxidant activity compared to their native forms. The optimized film dissolved within approximately 15 min on moist skin and showed favorable handling properties. Ex vivo studies revealed significantly higher skin deposition of both KA and licochalcone A from the liposomal mask compared with free and liposomal dispersions (p < 0.05). In a 7-day clinical evaluation, the mask significantly improved skin hydration and reduced melanin index (p < 0.05). No irritation or adverse reactions were observed, and user satisfaction was high. This liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach to enhancing skin brightness and hydration, supporting its potential as a sustainable cosmeceutical innovation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 1576 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Safety of a Cannabinoid-Based Topical Cream in Atopic-Prone Skin: A Prospective Clinical Study

by Maite Bilbatua, Ander Pino, Josune Torrecilla, Leire Arana-Pascual, Saioa Mateos, José María Alonso, María Moneo-Sánchez and Raúl Pérez

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010020 - 14 Jan 2026

Abstract

Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder. Revodiol Calming Cream^® (RCC) is a novel dermocosmetic product containing cannabidiol (CBD) and Annona cherimola fruit extract, designed for the management of atopic-prone and sensitive skin. Objective: Clinically assess the efficacy and [...] Read more.

Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder. Revodiol Calming Cream^® (RCC) is a novel dermocosmetic product containing cannabidiol (CBD) and Annona cherimola fruit extract, designed for the management of atopic-prone and sensitive skin. Objective: Clinically assess the efficacy and safety of RCC in the management of atopic-prone and/or sensitive skin. Materials and methods: A prospective study included 20 adults and 22 children with mild-to-moderate atopic-prone skin. RCC was applied daily, for 56 days. Clinical evaluation included the SCORAD index, pruritus and dryness scales; and a Visual Analog Scale (VAS). Biometric assessments (Mexameter^®, Tewameter^®, Visioscan^®, Corneofix^®) were performed. Subjective satisfaction and quality of life (DLQI) were also recorded. Results: RCC was well tolerated, with no significant adverse events. After 56 days, SCORAD scores decreased by 55% in adults and 60% in children. Pruritus and dryness were significantly reduced, and VAS scores indicated a 65% decrease in discomfort. Biometric assessments demonstrated improvements in erythema, skin barrier function, topography, and desquamation. Subjective satisfaction reached 75% in both populations, and DLQI improved by 23%. Conclusions: The synergistic combination of CBD, Annona cherimola extract, and natural humectants offers a safe and effective daily dermocosmetic care for both adults and children. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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31 pages, 1515 KB

Open AccessReview

Regenerative Strategies for Androgenetic Alopecia: Evidence, Mechanisms, and Translational Pathways

by Rimma Laufer Britva and Amos Gilhar

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 19; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010019 - 14 Jan 2026

Abstract

Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine [...] Read more.

Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine has been associated with a gradual shift toward approaches that aim to restore follicular function and architecture. Stem cell-derived conditioned media and exosomes have shown the ability to activate Wnt/β-catenin signaling, enhance angiogenesis, modulate inflammation, and promote dermal papilla cell survival, resulting in improved hair density and shaft thickness with favorable safety profiles. Autologous cell-based therapies, including adipose-derived stem cells and dermal sheath cup cells, have demonstrated the potential to rescue miniaturized follicles, although durability and standardization remain challenges. Adjunctive interventions such as microneedling and platelet-rich plasma (PRP) further augment follicular regeneration by inducing controlled micro-injury and releasing growth and neurotrophic factors. In parallel, machine learning-based diagnostic tools and deep hair phenotyping offer improved severity scoring, treatment monitoring, and personalized therapeutic planning, while robotic Follicular Unit Excision (FUE) platforms enhance surgical precision and graft preservation. Advances in tissue engineering and 3D follicle organoid culture suggest progress toward producing transplantable follicle units, though large-scale clinical translation is still in early development. Collectively, these emerging biological and technological strategies indicate movement beyond symptomatic management toward more targeted, multimodal approaches. Future progress will depend on standardized protocols, regulatory clarity, and long-term clinical trials to define which regenerative approaches can reliably achieve sustainable follicle renewal in routine cosmetic dermatology practice. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 6337 KB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical Properties of Two Poly-L-Lactic Acid Injectable Implants: Potential Impact on Their Biological Properties

by Luiz Avelar, Alessandra Haddad, Sabrina G. Fabi, Michael Somenek, Katie Beleznay, Shino Bay Aguilera, Kathryn Taylor-Barnes, Cheri Mao, Åke Öhrlund, Björn Lundgren, Lian Leng, Edwige Nicodeme, Peter Morgan and Daniel Bråsäter

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 18; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010018 - 13 Jan 2026

Abstract

This study evaluated the thermal properties, crystallinity, particle size, morphology, and in vivo local inflammation and persistence of two poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) injectable implants, Sculptra^® (PLLA-SCA) and GANA V^® (PLLA-GA). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA underwent differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray powder diffraction [...] Read more.

This study evaluated the thermal properties, crystallinity, particle size, morphology, and in vivo local inflammation and persistence of two poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) injectable implants, Sculptra^® (PLLA-SCA) and GANA V^® (PLLA-GA). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA underwent differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray powder diffraction to evaluate their thermal properties and degree of crystallinity. X-ray powder diffraction spectra displayed a sharper, more intense peak for PLLA-GA than PLLA-SCA, with smaller peaks on either side of the main peak of PLLA-GA but not PLLA-SCA. Differential scanning calorimetry thermograms indicated three thermal events for both PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA. For PLLA-SCA, the first two events occurred between 65 °C and 90 °C, and the third event occurred at 165 °C. For PLLA-GA all three events occurred between 156 °C and 169 °C. Heating samples to 120 °C and cooling to room temperature prior to differential scanning calorimetry resulted in no thermal events being observed between 65–90 °C with either product, while three events were observed with PLLA-GA and one event with PLLA-SCA between 156 °C and 169 °C. The median volume distribution diameter was 46.4 µm for PLLA-SCA and 31.7 µm for PLLA-GA. Scanning electron microscopy showed PLLA-GA particles were irregular in shape, had no sharp edges and had a wrinkled and crimped surface, while PLLA-SCA particles displayed plate-like shapes and had smoother surfaces. In vivo inflammatory reactivity scores indicated a slight reaction for PLLA-SCA at all time points (3.7 ± 1.1, 6.1 ± 1.6, 5.7 ± 1.2 and 6.2 ± 1.2 at 2, 12, 26 and 52 weeks, respectively), while for PLLA-GA, a moderate reaction was observed at 12 and 26 weeks (2.9 ± 1.5, 10.1 ± 1.0, 9.4 ± 0.7 and 7.1 ± 1.3 at 2, 12, 26 and 52 weeks, respectively). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA had similar persistence scores at 2, 12 and 26 weeks, while at 52 weeks the score was markedly higher for PLLA-SCA versus PLLA-GA (1.9 ± 0.2 versus 0.7 ± 0.2). In conclusion, PLLA-SCA is more amorphous than PLLA-GA. The single melting point of PLLA-SCA contrasts with the broader spectrum of melting points for PLLA-GA suggests a more homogenous formulation of PLLA-SCA. This, and its less crystalline structure, result in the slower degradation rate and more sustained biological response of PLLA-SCA compared with PLLA-GA. The physiochemical properties of PLLAs affect the biological response in clinical practice and should be taken into consideration when selecting a PLLA treatment for aesthetic use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 1619 KB

Open AccessArticle

Synergistic Effects of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Lauryl Dimethylamine Oxide Blends on Foam Properties and Skin Irritation Reduction

by Elena Herrero, Cristina Calabuig, Francisco Ríos and Manuela Lechuga

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 17; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010017 - 13 Jan 2026

Abstract

Surfactants are commonly employed in cleaning, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical formulations due to their ability to lower surface tension and facilitate the formation of emulsions, foams, and dispersions. Recent research highlights the advantages of synergistic interactions between anionic and nonionic surfactants to improve overall [...] Read more.

Surfactants are commonly employed in cleaning, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical formulations due to their ability to lower surface tension and facilitate the formation of emulsions, foams, and dispersions. Recent research highlights the advantages of synergistic interactions between anionic and nonionic surfactants to improve overall performance. In this study, the physicochemical properties and performance of binary mixtures of the anionic surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and the amphoteric surfactant lauryl dimethyl amine oxide (LDAO) at varying ratios (100% SLS, 90:10, 80:20, 70:30, 60:40, and 50:50) were investigated. Key parameters analysed included critical micelle concentration (CMC), surface tension (γ), foam volume, and potential irritability, assessed via the Zein test. The results revealed a clear synergistic effect between SLS and LDAO: all mixtures showed reduced CMC and minimum surface tension compared to the individual surfactants, while exhibiting enhanced foam volume and stability. Regarding irritability, increasing LDAO content consistently led to decreased protein denaturation, indicating lower irritancy levels. Furthermore, the results obtained in the Zein test confirmed that mixtures induced less protein denaturation than the sum of their individual surfactant components, with formulations ranging from moderately to non-irritating. The results obtained indicate that the more stable mixed micelle systems (SLS + LDAO) might improve the performance of cleaning formulations (γ, CMC, foam) while reducing the irritability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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16 pages, 2466 KB

Open AccessArticle

Regenerative and Dermal Wound Healing Activities of Bioactive Octapeptide

by Shan Lakmal Edirisinghe, Chamilani Nikapitiya and Mahanama De Zoysa

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 16; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010016 - 13 Jan 2026

Abstract

Cosmeceutical peptides (CPs), which modulate various biological activities, including skin regeneration and wound healing, have emerged as promising agents in skincare. In this study, we investigated the regenerative and wound healing potential of a short peptide, CP-02 (sequence CDARSDAR), using human dermal fibroblast [...] Read more.

Cosmeceutical peptides (CPs), which modulate various biological activities, including skin regeneration and wound healing, have emerged as promising agents in skincare. In this study, we investigated the regenerative and wound healing potential of a short peptide, CP-02 (sequence CDARSDAR), using human dermal fibroblast cells (HDFs) in vitro and a zebrafish model in vivo. In HDFs, CP-02 treatment at concentrations of 50, 100, and 200 µg/mL significantly accelerated wound closure in a dose-dependent manner (p < 0.05) and upregulated the mRNA expression of CCND1, MYC, FGF2, EFG, and IL-8 at 12 h post-treatment. In amputated zebrafish larvae, exposure to CP-02 (5 µg/mL) for 72 h significantly increased fin regeneration, with a fin area of 3.5 mm² and fin-fold length of 0.2 mm, compared with those in controls (2 mm² and 0.07 mm, respectively). Intramuscular administration of CP-02 significantly improved the healing rates in wounded adult zebrafish to 58% and 76% on 12 and 16 days post wounding (dpw), respectively, compared with the vehicle (35% and 44%, respectively). Histological analysis (H&E staining) revealed reduced inflammatory cell infiltration, complete granulation, and re-epithelialization in the CP-02-treated tissues at 12 dpw. Furthermore, mRNA expression levels of tnf-α, il-1β, tgfb1, mmp9, mmp13, and timp2b were elevated in the CP-02 group at 4 dpw, whereas those of pro-fibrotic mediators, including acta2, ctgfb, cdh1, and col9a3 reduced in muscle tissue on 12 dpw. Collectively these findings demonstrate that CP-02 promotes effective, scar-reducing regeneration and wound healing, highlighting its strong potential as a therapeutic peptide for future skincare and cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 4664 KB

Open AccessArticle

Unveiling the Potential of Plant-Derived Exosome-like Extracellular Vesicles from Phalaenopsis aphrodite as Skin-Conditioning Ingredients in Cosmetic Applications

by Kai-An Chuang, Kuei-Chang Li, Hsin-Jan Yao, Pei-Yin Tsai, I Huang Lu, Chu Hung Lin, Hira Umbreen, Chi-Chien Lin and I-Hong Pan

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 15; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010015 - 12 Jan 2026

Abstract

Plant-derived exosome-like extracellular vesicles (PELVs) have recently emerged as novel bioactive materials. Although members of the Orchidaceae family have been reported to possess various biological activities and are widely used as cosmetic ingredients, no studies to date have investigated exosome-like extracellular vesicles derived [...] Read more.

Plant-derived exosome-like extracellular vesicles (PELVs) have recently emerged as novel bioactive materials. Although members of the Orchidaceae family have been reported to possess various biological activities and are widely used as cosmetic ingredients, no studies to date have investigated exosome-like extracellular vesicles derived from Phalaenopsis species. In the present study, we report for the first time a novel exosome-like extracellular vesicles preparation isolated from Phalaenopsis aphrodite (called Exorigin^® OR) and characterize its physical and biological properties. The purified vesicles exhibited a spherical shape surrounded by a bilayered membrane with an average particle size of approximately 98 nm and expressed a CD9 marker. Fluorescent labeling with BODIPY TR indicated that Exorigin^® OR can be internalized by cells. In in vitro assays, Exorigin^® OR alleviated hydrogen peroxide-induced damage in keratinocytes and inhibited melanin production in melanocytes, possibly associated with the downregulation of Tyrp1 expression as shown by qPCR analysis. Moreover, reconstructed human epidermis and cornea-like epithelium models demonstrated that Exorigin^® OR is non-irritant. Collectively, these findings suggest that Exorigin^® OR represent a promising and safe bioactive ingredient for promoting skin health in cosmeceutical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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16 pages, 2884 KB

Open AccessArticle

Performance of Platycladus orientalis Leaves Yeast Fermented Solution on Human Dermal Papilla Cells

by Kuan Chang, Lingjuan Liu, Xianqi Chen, Jinhua Li, Timson Chen, Zhizhen Li, Ya Chen, Ling Ma and Jing Wang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 14; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010014 - 12 Jan 2026

Abstract

Platycladus orientalis exhibits significant potential as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hair growth-promoting ingredient, while the low bioavailability of raw Platycladus orientalis leaves extracts limits their further application. In this study, yeast fermentation was employed to prepare Platycladus orientalis Leaves Yeast Fermented Solution (PYFS). [...] Read more.

Platycladus orientalis exhibits significant potential as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hair growth-promoting ingredient, while the low bioavailability of raw Platycladus orientalis leaves extracts limits their further application. In this study, yeast fermentation was employed to prepare Platycladus orientalis Leaves Yeast Fermented Solution (PYFS). Its performance on human dermal papilla cells (HDPCs) was systematically investigated. The optimal fermentation strain was screened using the methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium (MTT) assay, and Saccharomycopsis fibuligera CICC33226 (SF) was identified as the most suitable strain for fermentation. The effects of PYFS on the cell cycle distribution, growth factors, inflammatory factors of HDPCs, as well as its hair growth-promoting mechanism, were investigated. Experiments revealed that after fermentation, the proportion of cells in the G0/G1 phase decreased by 11.09%, while the proportion of cells in the S phase increased by 35.44%. Additionally, the level of the growth factor VEGF increased by 42.34%, while the level of the inflammatory factor TGF-β1 decreased by 23.81%. Moreover, the fermentation process correlates with altered mRNA expression of Wnt/β-catenin pathway-related genes by upregulating the mRNA expression levels of β-catenin, DVL1, and LEF1, and downregulating the mRNA expression level of DKK-1. Finally, non-targeted metabolomics technology was used to analyze the metabolite changes after fermentation. The most significant differential metabolites mainly include flavonoids, amino acids and their derivatives, and organic acids and their derivatives. This study utilized microbial fermentation technology to prepare the yeast fermentation solution, selected the optimal fermentation strain, and demonstrated that its fermentation product significantly promotes HDPC metabolic activity, supports hair follicle health by regulating the balance of growth factors, alters expression patterns of Wnt/β-catenin pathway-related genes, and substantially alters the metabolite composition of Platycladus orientalis leaves extract through fermentation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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16 pages, 606 KB

Open AccessArticle

Identifying Unique Patient Groups in Melasma Using Clustering: A Retrospective Observational Study with Machine Learning Implications for Targeted Therapies

by Michael Paulse and Nomakhosi Mpofana

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 13; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010013 - 12 Jan 2026

Abstract

Melasma management is challenged by heterogeneity in patient presentation, particularly among individuals with darker skin tones. This study applied k-means clustering, an unsupervised machine learning algorithm that partitions data into k distinct clusters based on feature similarity, to identify patient subgroups that could [...] Read more.

Melasma management is challenged by heterogeneity in patient presentation, particularly among individuals with darker skin tones. This study applied k-means clustering, an unsupervised machine learning algorithm that partitions data into k distinct clusters based on feature similarity, to identify patient subgroups that could provide a hypothesis-generating framework for future precision strategies. We analysed clinical and demographic data from 150 South African women with melasma using k-means clustering. The optimal number of clusters was determined using the Elbow Method and Bayesian Information Criterion (BIC), with t-distributed stochastic neighbour embedding (t-SNE) visualization for assessment. The k-Means algorithm identified seven exploratory patient clusters explaining 52.6% of the data variability (R² = 0.526), with model evaluation metrics including BIC = 951.630 indicating optimal model fit and a Silhouette Score of 0.200 suggesting limited separation between clusters consistent with overlapping clinical phenotypes, while the Calinski-Harabasz index of 26.422 confirmed relatively well-defined clusters that were characterized by distinct profiles including “The Moderately Sun Exposed Young Women”, “Elderly Women with Long-Term Melasma”, and “Younger Women with Severe Melasma”, with key differentiators being age distribution and menopausal status, melasma severity and duration patterns, sun exposure behaviours, and quality of life impact profiles that collectively define the unique clinical characteristics of each subgroup. This study demonstrates how machine learning can identify clinically relevant patient subgroups in melasma. Aligning interventions with the characteristics of specific clusters can potentially improve treatment efficacy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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9 pages, 220 KB

Open AccessCommentary

Shaping the Future of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry—Trends in Obtaining Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources

by Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik and Agata Wawrzyńczak

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 12; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010012 - 9 Jan 2026

Abstract

The pursuit of fine chemicals from natural sources is advancing rapidly, driven by a growing demand for safe, sustainable, and high-performance ingredients in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Emerging extraction and biotransformation technologies, including enzyme-assisted procedures, precision fermentation, and green solvent systems, are enabling [...] Read more.

The pursuit of fine chemicals from natural sources is advancing rapidly, driven by a growing demand for safe, sustainable, and high-performance ingredients in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Emerging extraction and biotransformation technologies, including enzyme-assisted procedures, precision fermentation, and green solvent systems, are enabling the selective recovery of complex molecules with enhanced purity and stability. Simultaneously, AI-guided approaches to the discovery of bioactive compounds are accelerating the identification of multifunctional molecules exhibiting, for example, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or microbiome-modulating activities. These developments not only expand the chemical diversity accessible to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors but also promote the adoption of circular bioeconomy frameworks. Together, they define a new generation of natural fine chemicals with strong potential for targeted therapeutic and cosmetic applications. Accordingly, this commentary focuses on emerging trends and key technological advances in the use of renewable, natural sources for the production of fine chemicals relevant to cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It further highlights the critical roles of biotechnology, green chemistry, and digital innovation in shaping a more sustainable future for cosmetic and pharmaceutical chemistry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

18 pages, 777 KB

Open AccessArticle

Ecofriendly Biosurfactant-Containing Solid Shampoo Formulation for Pets

by Ana Paula B. Cavalcanti, Gleice P. de Araújo, Fabíola Carolina G. de Almeida, Káren Gercyane O. Bezerra, Maria da Glória C. da Silva, Alessandra Sarubbo, Rita de Cássia F. Soares da Silva and Leonie A. Sarubbo

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 11; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010011 - 8 Jan 2026

Abstract

The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively [...] Read more.

The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively natural ingredients and a microbial biosurfactant produced by Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 as a surface-active component. The biosurfactant was combined with renewable anionic and nonionic surfactants, conditioning agents, natural oils and butters, and minimal water content to obtain a compact, solid formulation. The shampoo was produced through a controlled multi-phase process and subsequently characterized by physicochemical, microbiological, toxicological, and performance analyses. The formulation exhibited stable pH values suitable for pet skin, low moisture content, absence of free alkalinity, high solid content, and satisfactory foaming capacity. Cleaning efficiency tests demonstrated effective removal of artificial sebum from pet fur while preserving softness and shine. Microbiological assays confirmed the absence of bacterial and fungal contamination, and toxicological evaluations revealed no cytotoxicity and low eye irritation potential. In addition, the shampoo showed 100% biodegradability and maintained physicochemical and organoleptic stability over six months of storage. Overall, the results demonstrate that the developed solid shampoo represents an innovative, safe, and biodegradable alternative that reduces water consumption and plastic packaging, contributing to sustainable development in the pet cosmetics sector. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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25 pages, 2585 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of an Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) Loaded Elastosome Formulation for Enhanced Skin Penetration and Anti-Aging Effects

by Seul Gi Heo, Won Kyu Hong, Eun Mi Kim, Min Soo Kim, Si Young Song, Su Mi Choi, Jun Hyeong Park, Ji Hye Kim and Gwang Seong Choi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 10; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010010 - 7 Jan 2026

Abstract

Achieving optimal skin penetration with bioactive cosmetic ingredients, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), presents ongoing challenges. This study introduces a novel elastosome-based EGF delivery system co-loading dexpanthenol, which achieves superior skin penetration and multifunctional cosmetic efficacy compared with a conventional liposome formulation. [...] Read more.

Achieving optimal skin penetration with bioactive cosmetic ingredients, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), presents ongoing challenges. This study introduces a novel elastosome-based EGF delivery system co-loading dexpanthenol, which achieves superior skin penetration and multifunctional cosmetic efficacy compared with a conventional liposome formulation. The EGF FLEXIR-SOME formulation was characterized to determine its physicochemical properties measured for comparison against a conventional liposome control. Efficacy and safety were confirmed through in vitro and in vivo evaluations, including clinical trials of the formulation and primary skin irritation tests. The formulated EGF FLEXIR-SOME particles exhibited an average diameter of 124.8 nm and a zeta potential of −57.53 mV, demonstrating enhanced stability and skin penetration relative to the control. The results of clinical trials confirmed significant efficacy in anti-aging, moisture, skin barrier improvement, and hyperpigmentation reduction. Additionally, primary skin irritation tests classified the product as a non-irritant. In conclusion, an elastosome-based EGF formulation significantly enhances skin penetration and bioavailability. The formulation effectively improves skin elasticity, hydration, and barrier function while simultaneously reducing visible signs of aging and pigmentation. This study successfully developed an innovative formulation utilizing elastosome technology, maximizing the transdermal efficiency and stability of EGF, thereby offering a novel strategy for functional cosmeceutical development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)

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14 pages, 2480 KB

Open AccessArticle

Biological Activities of the Extract and Hitorins A and B from Chloranthus quadrifolius in Human Adipose-Derived Mesenchymal Stem Cells

by Kento Kunihiro, Sang-Yong Kim, Katsura Sano and Mareshige Kojoma

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 9; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010009 - 6 Jan 2026

Abstract

Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AD-MSCs) secrete various growth factors that activate skin cells. This study investigated the effects of crude extracts and isolated compounds, hitorin A and hitorin B, from Chloranthus quadrifolius on AD-MSCs. The crude extract and hitorins A and B obtained [...] Read more.

Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AD-MSCs) secrete various growth factors that activate skin cells. This study investigated the effects of crude extracts and isolated compounds, hitorin A and hitorin B, from Chloranthus quadrifolius on AD-MSCs. The crude extract and hitorins A and B obtained from C. quadrifolius promoted cell proliferation. Furthermore, they suppressed the accumulation of excessive lipid droplets and reduced the expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ, CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein alpha, and adiponectin. The extract and hitorins A and B increased the expression of stemness marker genes, including SRY-box transcription factor 2, homeobox protein NANOG, and octamer-binding transcription factor 4. For anti-aging effects, the crude extract and hitorins A and B significantly inhibited senescence-associated-β-galactosidase activity and the gene expression of p16, p21, and p53 under hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress. Additionally, they suppressed the production of intracellular reactive oxygen species and the gene expression of interleukin-6 and interleukin-8. These findings indicate that crude extracts and hitorins A and B derived from C. quadrifolius suppress excessive adipogenic differentiation, promote cell proliferation while enhancing stem cell characteristics, and reduce oxidative stress-induced cellular aging through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. These results suggest that they are effective cosmetic ingredients for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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17 pages, 1104 KB

Open AccessReview

Multi-Target Strategies for Enhancing Ceramide Production: A Review of Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Science

by Jihye Maeng, Sekyoo Jeong, Hyunjung Kim and Gaewon Nam

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 8; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010008 - 1 Jan 2026

Abstract

Ceramides are central to stratum corneum barrier organization and hydration. Beyond topical replenishment, ceramide-stimulating strategies increasingly aim to enhance endogenous ceramide biosynthesis, processing, and homeostatic remodeling in coordination with keratinocyte differentiation. In this review, we summarize the three major metabolic routes that shape [...] Read more.

Ceramides are central to stratum corneum barrier organization and hydration. Beyond topical replenishment, ceramide-stimulating strategies increasingly aim to enhance endogenous ceramide biosynthesis, processing, and homeostatic remodeling in coordination with keratinocyte differentiation. In this review, we summarize the three major metabolic routes that shape epidermal ceramide output—de novo synthesis, salvage, and sphingomyelin hydrolysis—and organize representative bioactive ingredients by their primary molecular targets rather than by origin. Specifically, we map ingredients to tractable regulatory nodes, including transcriptional “liposensors” (PPAR/LXR), the induction of biosynthetic/elongation and processing enzymes (e.g., SPT, CerS3, ELOVL4), the provision of structural substrates and precursors (e.g., linoleate-rich lipids and glycosylceramides), salvage-pathway sphingoid bases that can reshape ceramide subclass output, and metabolic sensing/stress-response pathways centered on AMPK–mTOR–SIRT1/autophagy. Across these mechanisms, agents spanning botanical and fermented extracts, vitamins, sphingoid intermediates, lipid precursors, and pathway modulators (including autophagy-focused probes) have been reported to increase ceramide abundance and, in some contexts, favor barrier-relevant ultra-long-chain species and ω-O-acylceramides that support lamellar organization and the corneocyte lipid envelope. Translational and clinical studies in dry, sensitive, and aged skin generally associate such interventions with improved barrier function and reduced dryness. Aligning ingredient selection with defined biosynthetic and processing checkpoints—and verifying outcomes with lipidomics alongside clinical endpoints—may accelerate the development of evidence-based, ceramide-stimulating cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)

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26 pages, 1734 KB

Open AccessReview

Systems for Mitochondria-Protective Cosmetic Actives: Opportunities in Post-Oncologic Skin Regeneration

by Agata Burzyńska, Agata Wawrzyńczak and Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 7; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010007 - 29 Dec 2025

Abstract

Post-oncologic skin is subject to multiple structural and functional impairments following chemotherapy and radiotherapy, including delayed epidermal turnover, compromised barrier integrity, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These changes can lead to persistent dryness, heightened reactivity, impaired regeneration, and reduced patient quality of life. In this [...] Read more.

Post-oncologic skin is subject to multiple structural and functional impairments following chemotherapy and radiotherapy, including delayed epidermal turnover, compromised barrier integrity, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These changes can lead to persistent dryness, heightened reactivity, impaired regeneration, and reduced patient quality of life. In this context, topical dermocosmetic strategies are essential not only for improving comfort and hydration, but also for supporting key cellular pathways involved in mitochondrial protection and oxidative stress reduction. Despite the promise of natural antioxidant actives, their cutaneous efficacy is often limited by poor stability, low bioavailability, and insufficient penetration of the stratum corneum. The use of nanocarriers promotes deeper skin penetration, protects oxidation-prone antioxidant compounds, and enables a controlled and prolonged release profile. This review summarizes the current evidence (2020–2025) on skin delivery systems designed to enhance the efficacy, stability, and skin penetration of antioxidants. Knowledge gaps and future directions are outlined, highlighting how rationally engineered delivery systems for mitochondria-targeted actives could contribute to safer, more effective strategies for post-oncologic skin regeneration. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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22 pages, 1336 KB

Open AccessArticle

Concentration-Dependent Rheological and Sensory Effects of Walnut Leaf Extract in Cosmetic Emulsion Creams

by Miljan Adamovic, Ana Adamovic, Ana Barjaktarevic, Marina Kostic, Olivera Kostic, Danijela Pecarski, Marijana Andjic, Jovana Dimitrijevic, Jelena Zivkovic and Marina Tomovic

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 6; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010006 - 26 Dec 2025

Abstract

Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not been systematically characterized. This study aimed to investigate the effect of increasing walnut leaf extract concentration on the rheological profile, mechanical integrity during application, and sensory performance of oil-in-water creams. Methods: Four emulsion formulations (F1–F4) containing 0%, 1%, 3%, and 5% walnut leaf extract were prepared using Olivem 1000 and Olivem 300 as emulsifiers. Rheological measurements included amplitude sweep, flow curve, frequency sweep, and thixotropy tests to assess viscoelasticity, flow behavior, and recovery. A sensory evaluation was conducted by trained panelists to correlate rheological parameters with perceived product attributes. Results: All formulations exhibited pseudoplastic, shear-thinning behavior in well-structured cosmetic emulsions during application. The addition of walnut extract significantly modified rheological responses: at 1% concentration, an increase in storage modulus (G′) and shear-thinning ratio (η₀/η∞) indicated structural reinforcement and improved spreadability, whereas higher concentrations (3–5%) led to structural softening and faster thixotropic recovery. The frequency sweep revealed a concentration-dependent shift from elastic- to viscous-dominant behavior. Sensory analysis confirmed these trends, with higher extract levels reducing stickiness and greasiness while enhancing absorption. Conclusions: Walnut leaf extract shows a concentration-dependent influence on the rheological behavior of the emulsions, strengthening the network structure at low levels while promoting softening and faster structural recovery at higher concentrations. The strong correlation between rheological and sensory parameters underscores the potential of walnut extract as a multifunctional ingredient for designing well-structured, non-greasy, and consumer-preferred cosmetic creams. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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11 pages, 681 KB

Open AccessArticle

Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetic Dermatology with Regard to Laser Treatments: A Comparative Analysis of AI and Dermatologists’ Decision-Making

by Alexandra Junge, Ali Mokhtari, Simone Cazzaniga, Ashraf Badawi, Flurin Brand, Simone Böll, Laurence Feldmeyer, Cindy Franklin, Hans-Joachim Laubach, Mathias Lehmann, Zora Martignoni, Sammy Murday, Dominik Obrist, Antonia Reimer-Taschenbrecker, Basil Signer, Roberta Vasconcelos-Berg, Charlotte Vogel, Nikhil Yawalkar, Kristine Heidemeyer and Seyed Morteza Seyed Jafari

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 5; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010005 - 26 Dec 2025

Abstract

Introduction: Artificial intelligence (AI) has developed into an increasingly important tool in dermatology. While new technologies integrated within laser devices are emerging, there is a lack of data on the applicability of publicly available AI models. Methods: The prospective study used an online [...] Read more.

Introduction: Artificial intelligence (AI) has developed into an increasingly important tool in dermatology. While new technologies integrated within laser devices are emerging, there is a lack of data on the applicability of publicly available AI models. Methods: The prospective study used an online questionnaire where participants evaluated diagnosis and treatment for 25 dermatological cases shown as pictures. The same questions were given to AI models: ChatGPT-4o, Claude Sonnet 4, Gemini 2.5 Flash, and Grok-3. Results: Dermatologists outperformed AI in diagnostic accuracy (suspected primary diagnosis-SD 75.6%) in pooled dermatologists vs. pooled AI (SD 57.0%), with laser specialists achieving the highest accuracy (SD 82.0%) and residents the lowest (SD 66.0%). There was a high heterogeneity across AI models. Gemini approached dermatologist performance (SD 72.0%), while Claude showed a low accuracy (SD 40.0%). While AI models reached near 100% accuracy in some classic/common diagnoses (e.g., acne, rosacea, spider angioma, infantile hemangioma), their accuracy dropped to near 0% on rare or context-dependent cases (e.g., blue rubber bleb nevus syndrome, angiosarcoma, hirsutism, cutaneous siderosis). Inter-rater agreement was high among laser experts in terms of diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice. Agreement between residents and AI models was highest for diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice, while it was lowest between experts and AI models. Conclusions: Before AI-based tools can be integrated into daily practice, particularly regarding diagnosis and appropriate laser treatment recommendations, specific supervised medical training of the AI model is necessary, as open-source platforms currently lack the ability to contextualize presented data. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 1585 KB

Open AccessArticle

Systemic Lipid Dysregulation in Low-Hydration Skin: A Multi-Dimensional Analysis

by Yumei Fan, Zheng Wang and Peixue Ling

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 4; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010004 - 25 Dec 2025

Abstract

Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic [...] Read more.

Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic differences between individuals with high and low hydration levels. We enrolled 60 healthy Chinese women (aged 30–55), divided into a low-hydration (LH, n = 11) group and a high-hydration (HH, n = 19) group based on Corneometer measurements. An integrated methodology was employed, including confocal Raman spectroscopy, multiphoton laser tomography, biophysical instruments, and untargeted lipidomics. Our results demonstrated a positive correlation between skin hydration and SC thickness, ceramides, and lactate levels. However, no significant correlation was identified in relation to wrinkles, color, or elasticity. The lipidomic analysis revealed eighty-three significantly upregulated lipids (VIP > 1.0, p < 0.05) in LH skin, among which ten lipids, including nine ceramides, exhibited strong negative correlations with hydration (|r| > 0.8, p < 0.05). These lipids were predominantly associated with sphingolipid and triacylglycerol metabolic pathways. Together, our findings suggest that low-hydration skin is characterized by systemic lipidomic dysregulation, rather than a deficiency of individual lipids. These findings represent novel insights into the mechanisms underlying skin hydration and identify potential therapeutic targets for addressing skin dryness and aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 3032 KB

Open AccessArticle

Protective and Restorative Effects of a Bio-Based Crosslinking Complex on Chemically Damaged Hair

by Flavio B. Camargo Junior, Alessandra M. Goshiyama, Gessica F. D. Oliveira, Marcos R. Rossan, Cleverson R. Princival, Edson Katekawa, Wagner Magalhães, Rafaela de Almeida Zito, Letícia Kakuda and Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 3; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010003 - 24 Dec 2025

Abstract

This study addresses the growing consumer demand for effective and sustainable hair care solutions by evaluating a novel bioactive crosslink repair complex designed to restore chemically damaged hair. The complex comprises itaconic acid, arginine, D-panthenol, and polysaccharides from linseed and chia, which work [...] Read more.

This study addresses the growing consumer demand for effective and sustainable hair care solutions by evaluating a novel bioactive crosslink repair complex designed to restore chemically damaged hair. The complex comprises itaconic acid, arginine, D-panthenol, and polysaccharides from linseed and chia, which work synergistically to promote fiber crosslinking, protein restructuring, and cuticle barrier restoration. The complex was incorporated into two formulations: a bleaching mixture as a protective agent and a leave-in conditioner as a repair treatment for chemically damaged hair. The protective efficacy was assessed through tensile strength measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, combability tests, shine evaluation, and scanning electron microscopy. The repair potential was evaluated using differential scanning calorimetry and tensile strength analysis. Results demonstrated that incorporating the complex into the bleaching mixture significantly enhanced break stress, denaturation enthalpy, shine, and combability, while maintaining improved cuticle alignment. The hair repair evaluation showed that post-treatment application of the complex successfully restored hair tensile strength and denaturation. These findings confirm the dual functionality of Bioactive Crosslink Repair Complex as both a protective and reparative agent, highlighting synergistic mechanisms in preventing and reversing chemical damage to hair fibers. This bioactive approach offers a promising alternative for hair care formulations targeting chemically treated hair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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