Cosmetics

Cosmetic ingredients based on more or less refined biological matter (plants, fungi, bacteria, etc.) are gaining popularity. Advances in green chemistry and biotechnology are supporting this general trend further. Following numerous bans on the use of newly generated animal testing data in cosmetic safety assessments, and the worldwide demand for “cruelty-free” products, many alternative methods have been developed to assess the toxicity of ingredients. Whilst great strides have been, and continue to be, made, the area of systemic toxicity is one where international harmonisation and regulatory acceptance is still evolving. A strategy for the fractional assessment of biological matter is suggested to make approaches, such as threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) methodology, fit for purpose. Within this strategy, analytical data are used to generate compound classes which are quantified and assessed separately. Whilst this strategy opens new windows for assessing the safety of complex mixtures with a lack of toxicological data, it also raises awareness of the increasing complexity of cosmetic formulations and the general problem of additivity/synergy being rarely addressed. Extremely complex mixtures are and will be a growing challenge for safety assessors. Full article

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-UVB of three kinds of fermented fruit peel extracts by pectinase enzyme, including pomegranate, pomelo, and banana peel. The antioxidant was evaluated by the DPPH (2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) free radical scavenging method. Antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus was assessed by disk diffusion assay, and the photoprotective activity was measured using a photospectrometric method. The results revealed that pomegranate peel extract at 3000 IU/g peel exhibited potent free radical scavenging property against DPPH, with the smallest IC₅₀ value at 0.18%, which was better than that of pomelo peel extract at 55.79%. Furthermore, the results suggested that the pomegranate peel extract also exhibited antibacterial activity against E. coli better than pomelo peel extract, but none of the three samples shows the antibacterial capacity against S. aureus. Moreover, 10% pomegranate peel extract also expressed the strongest anti-UVB activity, with an SPF value of 36.582. The research demonstrates pomegranate peel’s bioactivity potential for further experiments. Full article

Hyperpigmentation affects people globally with negative psychological impacts. Piper betle L. leaf (PBL) extract has many benefits including skin lightening which may reduce hyperpigmentation. The objective of this study was to develop an effective skin-lightening cream containing PBL with ideal characteristics. A formulation of base cream and PBL cream was prepared and characterized by centrifugation, particle size and zeta potential analysis, rheological profile studies and physical properties’ observation. In vivo studies on 30 human subjects tested the effects of base and PBL cream on skin-lightening, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and elasticity through weekly tests 4 weeks in duration. Base and PBL creams had a non-Newtonian property with acceptable color, odor, texture, zeta potential, particle size and showed no phase separation. The in vivo study indicated a significant reduction in melanin content and an improvement in skin tone for PBL cream but not in base cream. TEWL and elasticity also showed significant reduction for both formulations, indicating a healthier skin barrier and supple skin with consistent use, although hydration fluctuated with no significant changes. The developed PBL cream showed significant results in the reduction in melanin content and improving skin tone, which shows the formulation can confer skin-lightening effect. Full article

The use of calendula for its lenitive properties’ dates to the XII century. This plant contains several bioactive compounds, including terpenoids, terpenes, carotenoids, flavonoids and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Calendula flower extract is used in soothing cosmetics, such as after-sun, sensitive skin and eye contour products. The anti-inflammatory properties of this ingredient were demonstrated in an animal model, but the mechanism of action is poorly understood. Therefore, our work explored the effect of a calendula flower extract on NO production, a pro-inflammatory radical produced by nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and highly released by innate immune cells in inflammatory-related pathologies. NO production was evoked by the Toll-like receptor 4 agonist lipopolysaccharide (LPS) in macrophages, using concentrations that did not compromise cells viability. This ingredient exhibited a dose-dependent NO inhibition, reaching 50% at 147 μL/mL without cytotoxicity. Together with previous literature, these results provide experimental evidence on the anti-inflammatory properties of calendula flower extract, as well as its usefulness in cosmetics with soothing properties and adjunctive skin care in the treatment of the diseases associated with dysregulation of the NO signaling cascade. Full article

Cannabidiol is a phytocannabinoid with proven pharmacological properties that is also used in the cosmetic industry for its sebostatic and antioxidant activities, being considered a new anti-aging ally. An analytical method is proposed for the determination of CBD in cosmetic products by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry, after leaching the CBD from the cosmetic matrix with ethanol. Low instrumental limits of detection (0.22 ng mL⁻¹) and quantification (0.74 ng mL⁻¹) allow the determination of CBD at trace levels without needing preconcentration, whereas the wide linearity of the method allows the determination of CBD in more concentrated samples without high dilution. The method was successfully applied to the analysis of six cosmetic products and a raw material. The proposed method is suitable for the quality control of cosmetic products containing CBD, being able to quickly and easily determine this compound, ensuring that its concentration in the finished product is the desired one. Full article

The orbicularis oculi muscle is the sphincter muscle of the eyelids that blinks and closes the eyes. In this review, our aim was threefold: (1) to introduce the performance characteristics of blinking activity in young and older adults, (2) to discuss the influence of aging on the orbicularis oculi muscle in healthy adults, and (3) to provide information about the effect of facial exercise training on the orbicularis oculi muscle. To achieve the purpose of this review, a search using two electronic databases (PubMed and Scopus) and a search engine (Google Scholar) was conducted. The amplitude and peak velocity of spontaneously blinking behavior, which is an index of muscle function of the orbicularis oculi, appear to be affected by aging. The muscle thickness of the orbicularis oculi tends to be low in older adults, but there are issues that need to be examined further, such as differences in sex and measurement positions. There was no study on the effect of exercise training; however, the results of a highly trained man indicate that the orbicularis oculi muscles might elicit muscle hypertrophy through non-traditional resistance exercise. Full article

Fungal pathologies caused by the genus Candida have increased in recent years due to the involvement of immunosuppressed people and the advance of resistance mechanisms acquired by these microorganisms. Liposomes are nanovesicles with lipid bilayers in which they store compounds. α-Bisabolol is a sesquiterpene with proven biological activities, and in this work it was tested alone in liposomes and in association with Fluconazole in vitro to evaluate the antifungal potential, Fluconazole optimization, and virulence inhibitory effect in vitro. Antifungal assays were performed against standard strains of Candida albicans, Candida tropicalis, and Candida krusei by microdilution to identify the IC₅₀ values and to obtain the cell viability. The Minimum Fungicidal Concentration (MFC) was performed by subculturing on the solid medium, and at their subinhibitory concentration (Matrix Concentration (MC): 16,384 µg/mL) (MC/16), the compounds, both isolated and liposomal, were associated with fluconazole in order to verify the inhibitory effect of this junction. Tests to ascertain changes in morphology were performed in microculture chambers according to MC concentrations. Liposomes were characterized from the vesicle size, polydispersity index, average Zeta potential, and scanning electron microscopy. The IC₅₀ value of the liposomal bisabolol associated with fluconazole (FCZ) was 2.5 µg/mL against all strains tested, revealing a potentiating effect. Liposomal bisabolol was able to potentiate the effect of fluconazole against the CA and CT strains by reducing its concentration and completely inhibiting fungal growth. α-Bisabolol in liposomal form inhibited the morphological transition in all strains tested at a concentration of MC/8. The liposomes were homogeneous, with vesicles with diameters of 203.8 nm for the liposomal bisabolol and a surface charge potential of −34.2 mV, conferring stability to the nanosystem. Through scanning microscopy, the spherical shapes of the vesicles were observed. Full article

A stable water-based suspension containing chitin nanofibrils (CN), chitin nanofibrils complexed with nanolignin and the latter containing Vitamin E was prepared starting from CN nanosuspension and nanostructured powders. The water-based coating was deposited by a spray technique on three different renewable and biodegradable films consisting of biodegradable polyesters and starch to prepare possible beauty mask prototypes. After drying, the films were extracted with water to control their potential release on the wet skin and different amounts of released materials were obtained. The results were discussed considering the composition and morphology of the adopted substrates and their interactions with the coating. The eco-compatibility of these films is related to the absence of preservatives and their easy biodegradability in several environmental conditions, decreasing their burden on solid waste management with respect to fossil-based versions. Full article

Periorbital hyperpigmentation (POH) is a frequent concern among both young and adult patients. The etiology is multifactorial with a genetic background. Prevalence is higher in darker skin types. It has been estimated as high as 30% in a recent Indian study. Females are often more disappointed by POH than males. Treatment has to consider underlying pathologies and patients’ needs. We present our treatment algorithm for POH. In this study, 74 patients with POH, 64 females (86.5%) and 10 males (13.3%), were treated. Of these, 39 patients (53%) had a family history of POH. The age range of patients was 18−57 years (average: 36.1 years). In case of tear trough deformity, soft tissue augmentation was used by injection of hyaluronic acid gel, calcium hydroxylapatite, or autologous fat. Blepharoplasty with partial fat pad resection or repositioning via arcus marginalis release was used to correct severe orbital fat herniation and excess of the lower lid skin. Melanin hyperpigmentation of the skin was improved by sessions of Q-switched 1064 and 532 nm neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) laser. Small vessels (capillaries and veins) were targeted by a 1064 nm long-pulsed Nd-YAG laser. Sessions of intense pulsed light (IPL) or CO₂ fractional laser were employed to improve skin texture and fine lines. Topical hyaluronic acid-based formulations may be used as adjuvant self-treatment by patients. For pigmented and mixed-type POH, ultraviolet light protection is recommended as a maintenance treatment. By the use of various technologies, treatment can be individually tailored. Full article

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common type of baldness and its incidence has increased over the past few years with an earlier age of onset being widely reported all over the world. Although it is reported more often in men, it affects women as well. With the growing cosmetic concern of patients, emphasis has shifted from the more traditional treatment options such as finasteride and minoxidil to surgical options such as hair transplantation. This review briefly highlights all of the treatment options available for AGA so far. A special focus is on current data available on hair transplantation surgeries and the various methods, merits and demerits and limitations of surgery. The literature research considered published journal articles (scientific reviews) from 1990 to date. Studies were identified by searching electronic databases (MEDLINE and PubMed) and the reference lists of respective articles. Only articles available in English were considered for this review. Full article

In this study, bioactive composite systems based on natural polymers (chitosan and lignin) were prepared in this study. The structural, mechanical, and morphological properties of chitosan-based materials containing various amounts of lignin filler were investigated. The infra-red IR spectroscopy data confirmed the formation of chemical bonds between the components of the obtained composites. The mechanical properties of film samples were studied in air and in physiological solution. It was demonstrated that the breaking elongation values of the obtained film samples in the wet state were higher (150–160%) than the corresponding (average) value of a pure chitosan film (100%). The scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy data demonstrated that the introduction of lignin had caused significant changes in the surface morphology of films. The appearance of a strongly pronounced texture and porosity facilitated cell proliferation on the surface of composites, i.e., the bioactivity of film samples was enhanced with an increasing lignin content in the chitosan matrix. Full article

Skin is being increasingly exposed to artificial blue light due to the extensive use of electronic devices, which can induce cell oxidative stress, causing signs of early photo aging. The Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new standardized cosmetic ingredient obtained by an in vitro plant cell culture with a high content of rosmarinic acid. In this study, we examine the activity of the Melissa officinalis phytocomplex to protect skin against blue light and infrared damages, evaluating the ROS (Radical Oxygen Species) level in keratinocyte cell line from human skin (HaCaT) and Nrf2 (Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), elastin, and MMP1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase 1) immunostaining in living human skin explants ex vivo. This phytocomplex demonstrates antioxidant activity by reducing ROS production and thus the oxidant damage of the skin caused by UV and blue light exposure. In addition, it inhibits blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity, IR-induced elastin alteration, and IR-induced MMP-1 release. This Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new innovative active ingredient for cosmetic products that is able to protect skin against light and screen exposure damages and oxidative stress. Full article

In this study, in order to explore the anti-melanogenic effect of PFE (Paederia foetida L. extract) and suggest its availability, B16F10 cells, which are murine melanoma cells, were stimulated with alpha-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) to conduct an in vitro experiment. Treatment with PFE in B16F10 cells with activated melanogenesis due to stimulants showed that PFE significantly inhibits melanin content as well as intracellular tyrosinase activity within a range that does not cause cytotoxicity. In addition, Western blot assay demonstrated that PFE strongly inhibited the protein expression of not only tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, -2, and tyrosinase, but also microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Moreover, mechanism studies have shown that PFE processing inhibited the activation of melanin production by regulating the phosphorylation of each mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) family in the MAPK signaling pathway. To test the biocompatibility of PFE on human skin, a primary skin irritation test was performed. The results revealed that PFE did not have any side effects on human skin. These findings suggest that PFE holds great potential as a skin whitening agent and in the prevention of hyperpigmentation disorders. Full article

Background: PlantCrystals are a new concept to produce plant-based formulations. Their principle is based on the diminution of parts of or whole plants. In this study, the effect of a surfactant on stinging nettle leaf PlantCrystals was investigated. Secondly, the contents of bulk material and the PlantCrystals formulation were compared. In addition, for the very first time, the skin penetration of PlantCrystals was investigated. Methods: Stinging nettle leaves were milled with high-pressure homogenization. Sizes were analyzed via light microscopy and static light scattering. To investigate the effect of the milling, the flavonoid and total carotenoid content were determined, and the antioxidant capacity of the formulation was measured via total polyphenol content and DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) assay. Finally, the impact on skin penetration was investigated. Results: Size analysis showed a stabilizing effect of the surfactant, and the chemical analysis revealed higher flavonoid and polyphenol contents for PlantCrystals. The penetration of the formulation into the stratum corneum was shown to be promising; PlantCrystals possessed a visually perceived higher fluorescence and homogeneity compared to the bulk material. Conclusion: The concept of PlantCrystals improved the availability of valuable constituents and the penetration efficacy. The utilization of the natural chlorophyll fluorescence for skin penetration analysis of plant-based formulations proved itself highly effective. Full article

According to previous research studies, consumers worldwide are searching for new natural-oriented hair products that are both skin and environmentally friendly. Worldwide waste and air pollution, with the consequent environmental disasters, represent the greatest risk to human health and economy, further increased by the COVID-19 pandemic. Among others, non-biodegradable molecules are present in hair products (fossil-based additives, surfactants, etc.) and macromolecules (plastics). Plastics waste is considered the most serious problem, representing a forecast amount of 460 million tons per year by 2030, 12% of which is reused or recycled. Most plastics consumed, therefore, go to landfills and incineration, also if their recycling is considered an important driver of industrial profitability. Thus, the use of biopolymers represents an interesting alternative to produce biodegradable goods and tissues. After an introduction to the worldwide waste problem and the hair structure, the present review proposes the possibility to make biodegradable tissues that, realized by chitin nanofibrils and nano-lignin as natural polymers, may be used to produce an innovative and smart cosmetic hairline. Chitin-derived compounds are considered interesting polymers to produce non-woven tissues able to repair the hair damages provoked by the aggressiveness of both the environment and some aggressive cosmetic treatments, such as setting, bleaching, permanent waving, and oxidative coloring. The possible activity, that positively charged polymers such as chitin could have, has been speculated, interfering with the constitution and organization of the hair fibrils’ structure, which is negatively charged. The possibility of selecting biopolymers for their packaging is also discussed. Moreover, the use of these biopolymers, obtained from forestry-agro-food waste, may be of help to safeguard the further consumption of natural raw materials, necessary for future generations, also maintaining the earth’s biodiversity. Full article

As Muslims bound to Islamic teachings, the attitude of young millennials preferring non-halal international cosmetics is trivial. Despite the acceptance of halal food, literature on the acceptance of halal cosmetics remains scarce. The intention to purchase halal cosmetics is crucial for the sustainability of halal cosmetics manufacturers. The authors used the theory of planned behavior to identify factors influencing the purchase intention of halal cosmetics among Muslim millennials. Since cosmetics are not exclusively used by females, as males are starting to use them in their daily lives, gender was incorporated into the framework to assess its moderating effect on the relationship. Furthermore, brand image was included in the theory of planned behavior. Data were collected from three universities in Malaysia. A total of 501 responses were analyzed with smart partial least squares to run a multigroup analysis. The analysis revealed that subjective norms have a stronger effect on females, and perceived behavioral control has a greater effect on males. Although attitude and brand image have a positive effect on the intention to purchase halal cosmetics, gender has no effect. The findings are essential for halal cosmetics manufacturers to craft a marketing strategy aimed at Muslim millennials in Malaysia. Full article

Three studies were conducted with three new dexpanthenol-containing emollients containing increasing lipid contents (Emollients 1–3) to assess their performances in healthy adults with dry skin. All three studies (N = 42 each) followed virtually the same design. A single skin application of the study product was performed followed by once-daily usage. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin biomechanical properties, and lipid content of the stratum corneum (SC) were regularly assessed over the 28-day study period; a subset (N = 22) underwent a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge prior to product application. All three emollients were well tolerated and showed good performances with only minor differences in instrumental measurements. After single and prolonged once-daily applications of Emollients 1–3 to dry skin and dry SLS-damaged skin, skin hydration significantly increased from baseline (BL) (by 38.1–72.4% in unchallenged skin, p < 0.001 for all three). This was paralleled by significant increases in skin elasticity parameters. Usage of Emollients 1 and 3 caused increases from BL in SC cholesterol (by 9.8–12.5%, p < 0.05 for both) and SC free fatty acid levels (by 3.7–26.3%, p < 0.05 for both) at the end of the study. No sustained effects on TEWL were recorded. Our findings support the once-daily use of all three emollients in adults with dry skin. Full article

Mercury is a common ingredient found in skin lightening soaps, creams, and makeup-cleansing products. It may cause skin rashes, skin discolouration, and scarring, as well as a reduction in the skin’s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections. By looking at this scenario, developing a sensor that involved a simple procedure and fasts for real-time detection without affecting mercury sensitivity is urgently needed. For that reason, a fast and sensitive electrochemical method was developed to determine mercury in cosmetic products with the composition of polyaniline/multi-walled carbon nanotubes/gold nanoparticles/indium tin oxide sheet using methylene blue as a redox indicator. The significantly enhanced electrochemical performance was observed using cyclic voltammetry (CV) and differential pulse voltammetry (DPV). In order to detect mercury qualitatively and quantitatively, deposition potential and deposition time were respectively optimised to be 0.10 V and 70 s. The modified sensor was revealed a wide detection range of mercury from 0.01 to 10.00 ppm with a limit of detection of 0.08 ppm. The modified sensor towards mercury with a correlation coefficient (r²) was of 0.9948. Multiple cycling, reproducibility, and consistency of different modified sensors were investigated to verify the modified sensor’s performance. The developed sensing platform was highly selective toward mercury among the pool of possible interferents, and the stability of the developed sensor was ensured for at least 21 days after 10 repeated uses. The proposed method is a fast and simple procedure technique for analysing the mercury levels in cosmetic products. Full article

Nitric oxide (NO) plays multiple roles in both normal and abnormal skin processes. Its deranging disbalance is involved in the pathogenesis of multiple dermatologic diseases such as acne vulgaris, pointing towards beneficial therapeutic directions. A novel NO-producing gel-formulation was tested beneficial in the treatment of acne vulgaris in an open-label pilot study using clinical evaluation scores. It showed a decrease of comedones and inflammatory pustulae and reduced the Global Acne Grading System score by 50% within eight weeks. In addition, we demonstrate a potential use as cosmetic agent where NO therapy leads to an increase of skin integrity and a reduction of skin ageing processes. Full article