Cosmetics

Products with biologically active ingredients have emerged as a powerful category within the skincare and anti-aging sectors. Bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, they offer therapeutic benefits supported by scientific evidence while maintaining the esthetic appeal of traditional skincare. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of cosmeceuticals with a particular focus on their anti-aging potential. This review highlights recent advances in cosmeceutical actives. Next-generation retinoids such as hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinyl retinoate show comparable efficacy to tretinoin with improved tolerability, though current studies are small and short-term. Peptides, including signal, carrier, and neurotransmission-inhibiting peptides, offer multifunctional effects on extracellular matrix remodeling and wrinkle reduction, with supportive but modest clinical evidence enhanced by nanocarrier delivery. Antioxidants, particularly vitamin C and coenzyme Q10, are supported by controlled trials showing improvements in photoprotection, mitochondrial function, and wrinkle depth, though data are limited by sample size and follow-up. Botanical polyphenols are gaining prominence: nanoparticle-encapsulated epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) enhances anti-photoaging activity in preclinical studies; oral microencapsulated curcumin has shown visible benefits in nutricosmetic trials; and bakuchiol, a retinol-like meroterpene, demonstrated comparable efficacy to retinol with superior tolerability. Advances in delivery systems—including nanoemulsions, phospholipid complexes, and encapsulation technologies—improve stability, bioavailability, and skin penetration. In conclusion, retinoids, vitamin C, and AHAs/BHAs remain the most evidence-based actives, whereas newer bioactives and advanced formulations appear promising but require larger, long-term randomized trials to establish their role in dermatologic practice. Full article

The integration of nanotechnology with green chemistry presents sustainable strategies for developing multifunctional cosmeceutical formulations. In this study, iron oxide nanoparticles (IONPs) were successfully synthesized using antioxidant-rich green tea extract via an eco-friendly method. The nanoparticles were incorporated into a novel Pickering emulsion comprising coconut oil and green tea extract, targeting UV protection and antimicrobial performance. The green-synthesized IONPs displayed strong UV absorption properties, achieving an SPF of 6.20 at 1.0 M concentration, outperforming standard TiO₂ nanoparticles (SPF 3.98). The optimized Pickering emulsion formulation showed stability and skin-friendly pH. Antimicrobial studies revealed significant inhibition of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, with over 97% microbial reduction observed within 2 h of exposure. This dual-functional system, combining UV protection and antimicrobial effects, demonstrates the potential of green nanomaterials for developing safe, effective, and sustainable skincare formulations. The study provides new insight into the application of iron-based green nanotechnology in surfactant-free emulsions, supporting further innovation in the field of natural photoprotective cosmeceuticals. Full article

Background: Hormonal fluctuations significantly influence skin physiology, affecting collagen production, sebum regulation, pigmentation, and tissue repair. Hormonal therapies are increasingly used in cosmetic dermatology to address age-related and hormone-dependent skin changes. Methods: This narrative review synthesizes the current literature on the mechanisms, clinical applications, and future directions of hormonal therapies in dermatologic aesthetics. Studies were selected through a comprehensive search on PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science. Results: Estrogens, androgens, progesterone, and other hormones act on skin through specific receptors, modulating fibroblast, sebocyte, and melanocyte activity. Clinical applications include hormone-based strategies for anti-aging, acne, melasma, alopecia, and postmenopausal atrophy. Both systemic (e.g., HRT) and topical (e.g., clascoterone, phytoestrogens) approaches are discussed. Safety concerns, including systemic absorption and off-label use, require careful evaluation. Emerging technologies such as SERMs, nanocarriers, and regenerative combinations suggest promising future avenues. Conclusions: Hormonal therapies offer a biologically rational and increasingly evidence-based tool in cosmetic dermatology. Responsible integration into clinical practice depends on personalized approaches, ethical prescribing, and further research on long-term safety and efficacy. Full article

This review concentrates on the bioactive potential of two significant agri-food by-products: coffee by-products (coffee pulp and husk, spent coffee grounds, and silverskin) and olive by-products (olive mill wastewater, pomace, stones, and leaves). These residues are produced in substantial quantities, and despite their considerable application potential, they remain predominantly underutilized, thereby contributing to environmental burdens and economic losses. Their richness in bioactive compounds is unequivocal. Specifically, coffee by-products are abundant in caffeine and chlorogenic acids, whereas olive by-products serve as excellent sources of oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, and tyrosol. Such compounds possess health-promoting properties and are promising active ingredients for cosmetic formulations, owing to their antioxidant, anti-aging, UV protective, antimicrobial, emollient, and moisturizing effects. This review not only compiles the bioactive compounds present in these by-products and explores their potential applications but also examines the extraction methods employed for their recovery. Both conventional techniques (solvent extraction) and green extraction technologies (ultrasound-assisted extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, and supercritical fluid extraction) are discussed. These innovative and environmentally friendly approaches enhance extraction efficiency and are aligned with sustainability objectives. In this context, the importance of incorporating natural ingredients into cosmetic products is emphasized, both to meet regulatory and environmental standards and to satisfy the increasing consumer demand for safer, more effective, and environmentally sustainable formulations. Full article

Human skin microbiome plays a fundamental role in maintaining skin health, immunity, and appearance. While current microbiome-friendly cosmetics emphasize the use of probiotics and prebiotics, recent advances in bioengineering are paving the way for a new generation of personalized and sustainable skincare solutions. This evolution is increasingly necessary given the limitations of conventional dermatological treatments in addressing individual variability. Emerging technologies such as artificial intelligence (AI), synthetic biology, and high-throughput microbiome sequencing now enable precise skin analysis and the development of tailored, more effective cosmetic formulations. This review critically examines these technological breakthroughs, including genetic modification of microbial strains, engineered delivery systems, and quorum sensing modulation, with a focus on their cosmetic and therapeutic applications. These innovations not only facilitate product customization but also reduce environmental impact by minimizing resource use, synthetic chemicals, and testing burdens aligning with sustainability goals. Several structured tables synthesize the latest findings on microbial targets, bioengineered ingredients, delivery platforms, and mechanistic pathways, providing a practical reference for researchers and product developers. Additionally, this review addresses key regulatory and safety considerations, particularly those associated with genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in cosmetic products. It highlights the need for region-specific clinical trials, toxicity assessments, and microbial safety screening to ensure consumer protection. While current frameworks offer a foundation, further ethical and environmental guidelines may be necessary as synthetic biology advances. Thus, AI-integrated synthetic biology and microbiome transplantation emerge as transformative pathways for advancing sustainable, personalized skincare innovation. Full article

Background: Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) has gained attention as an anti-aging compound due to its ability to replenish NAD⁺ levels, which typically decline with age and stress. While improvements in skin conditions have been reported, clinical studies on human hair remain lacking. In this study, we evaluated the effects of NMN supplementation on hair conditions in middle-aged women and explored its association with quality-of-life (QOL) factors such as fatigue. Methods: Torula yeast-fermented NMN was evaluated in this clinical trial. A single-arm, pre-post intervention study was conducted involving 15 healthy Japanese women aged between 40 and 50 years who orally consumed NMN for 12 weeks. Hair growth cycles and hair shaft diameters were assessed using TrichoScan (TrichoGrabV3B) analysis and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Hair metabolites and hormone levels were also measured. Subjective indices, including fatigue and hair texture, were evaluated using a visual analog scale (VAS) questionnaire. Results: Following NMN supplementation, anagen hair elongation density (hairs/cm²) significantly increased from 55.9 to 87.7 (p = 0.03). Hair diameter (µm) also significantly increased from 75.3 to 78.8 (p < 0.01), with improvements in hair cuticle condition. Metabolomic analyses revealed significant changes in amino acids and energy metabolism-related compounds. No marked changes were observed in hair hormone concentrations. The VAS questionnaire indicated improvements in subjective hair characteristics such as elasticity, gloss, and volume, as well as reductions in fatigue and perceived hair loss, suggesting enhanced QOL. Conclusions: Oral supplementation with NMN may be a beneficial strategy for promoting hair growth and improvement in hair cuticle condition in middle-aged women, thus potentially enhancing overall hair care and quality of life. Full article

Moisturizers are key components of skincare products, and reliable test methods are essential for evaluating their barrier-repairing and hydrating efficacy. However, the viscous and waxy nature of many cosmetic moisturizers limits the applicability of conventional cell-based in vitro assays. In this study, we developed a novel in vitro dry skin model using epidermal sheets from minipig and human cadaver skin—models widely accepted in skin absorption research. To simulate dry skin conditions, various stimuli were applied, including the lipid-extracting solvent tert-butyl methyl ether (MTBE; 100%), 50/50 MTBE/Acetone solution (M/A), the irritant surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS; 1%), ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation (30 mJ/cm²), and tape stripping. Skin barrier disruption and stratum corneum damage were evaluated by assessing epidermal lipid integrity, histological alterations, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and FITC-dextran permeation. All treatments induced significant dry skin conditions, as evidenced by disrupted lipid architecture, histological damage, and increased TEWL and FITC-dextran flux. Among them, M/A applied for 5 min produced the most consistent and reproducible changes across parameters. This protocol also yielded comparable results in human cadaver skin, supporting its applicability for evaluating the skin barrier-protective effects of cosmetic ingredients. Full article

Recent advancements in cosmetic science and personal care represent a fundamental shift from conventional esthetics toward integrative solutions that support both physical health and emotional well-being. This review highlights the latest innovations in ingredients and technologies across skincare, hair care, and dental care, emphasizing their role in enhancing physiological resilience, modulating immune responses, and promoting emotional balance. A key focus is the development of multifunctional personal care products that bridge the gap between external esthetics and internal physiological benefits, reflecting the growing intersection of cosmetic and health sciences. Additionally, this review examines the therapeutic potential of aromatherapy and phytoncides in enhancing mood, reinforcing the critical role of mental well-being in overall health. As the personal care industry continues to evolve, the convergence of chemistry and medical disciplines relevant to cosmetic science—including those focused on skin, hair, oral health, sensory perception, mental well-being, and longevity—is driving a new era of holistic, evidence-based self-care that enhances both esthetic appearance and overall health. Full article

Background: Cutaneous aging is a multifactorial process, increasingly understood through the lens of cellular senescence, a state of stable cell cycle arrest accompanied by a pro-inflammatory secretory phenotype that disrupts tissue homeostasis. Recent research has highlighted the accumulation of senescent dermal fibroblasts as a key contributor to age-related skin changes, including loss of elasticity, collagen degradation, and impaired regeneration. Objective: This review explores the emerging hypothesis that energy-based devices (EBDs), particularly lasers, may act as senotherapeutic tools by targeting cellular senescence pathways in aging skin. We examine the molecular and histological effects of laser therapy in relation to known biomarkers of senescence and evaluate their potential role in regenerative dermatology. Methods: We conducted a review of published studies on fractional lasers, red-light therapies, and other EBDs, focusing on their impact on fibroblast activity, extracellular matrix remodeling, and senescence-associated markers such as p16^INK4a, p21^Cip1, telomerase, and SASP-related cytokines. Comparative analysis with pharmacologic senotherapeutics was also performed. Results: Preclinical and clinical data suggest that specific EBDs can modulate dermal aging at the molecular level by enhancing mitochondrial activity, increasing type III collagen synthesis, reducing senescence-related gene expression, and promoting fibroblast turnover. In contrast to systemic senolytics, lasers provide localized and titratable interventions with a favorable safety profile. Conclusions: Energy-based devices, particularly fractional lasers and red-light systems, hold promise as non-invasive senotherapeutic interventions in dermatology. By modulating senescence-associated pathways, EBDs may offer not only cosmetic improvement but also biological rejuvenation. Further mechanistic studies and biomarker-based trials are warranted to validate this paradigm and refine treatment protocols for longevity-oriented skin therapies. Full article

Microalgae and cyanobacteria produce extracellular polysaccharides that are exuded and released into the medium, typically referred to as exopolysaccharides (EPSs). Microalgae-derived EPSs have garnered attention in the last decade, as they may exhibit specific bioactivities and therefore hold promise for biofunctional applications in the biomedical, food, agricultural, and cosmetic fields. In cosmetic formulations, EPSs can be included both to improve techno-functional and sensorial properties and as active ingredients, showing great potential in the preparation of cosmetic products aimed at hydration and anti-aging. This review surveys the literature on the potential of EPS microalgae in skin care and cosmeceutical formulations to reveal a material that is sometimes discarded during the microalgae cultivation process and that can be recovered for cosmetic use. The conclusions of this review highlight that EPSs from microalgae and cyanobacteria exhibit different physicochemical and biological functionalities, making them attractive for potential exploitation as commercial sources of new polysaccharides. Full article

Laser-assisted exosome delivery (LAED) combines ablative fractional lasers with immediate topical application of exosomes. Here, we introduce the LAED concept and report two uncontrolled feasibility observations: a 62-year-old man with atrophic acne scars and a 68-year-old woman with diffuse dyschromia underwent fractional CO₂ laser treatment followed by topical exosomes. Both cases showed early, encouraging signals of clinical improvement and shorter downtime, with good tolerability. An exploratory day-7 patient self-evaluation using a 5-point Likert scale for speed/comfort of recovery yielded 5/5 in both cases. Given the two-case, non-comparative design, causality cannot be inferred, and efficacy remains hypothesis-generating. These preliminary findings motivate controlled trials with standardized objective and patient-reported measures and longer follow-up to determine whether LAED truly enhances the cosmetic benefits of fractional laser treatment. Full article

European legislation defines cosmetics as substances or mixtures designed to contact external body parts for cleaning, protection, fragrance, maintenance, or appearance modification. Cosmetic regulation has become increasingly important in recent years, as the number of consumers continues to grow. One of the major challenges of the cosmetic industry is effectively communicating to consumers the critical need to avoid using expired products for several safety reasons, with microbial contamination being among the most significant concerns. A key research priority involves understanding how bacterial and fungal populations commonly proliferate within cosmetic formulations. Regulatory standards strictly prohibit specific microorganisms in finished cosmetic products, as specified in EMA guidelines, making microbiological assessment an essential component of product evaluation. This review examines the prevalence, risks, and control measures associated with microbial contamination in cosmetic products. Special attention is given to the most isolated microorganisms, factors contributing to contamination, and current preservation strategies in the cosmetic industry. Full article

Cnidium officinale (CO) and Angelica gigas (AG) are traditional herbal medicines known for their bioactive compound ferulic acid (FA), which exerts skin-whitening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and UV-protective effects. However, conventional extraction yields are limited and often require solvent-intensive processes. In this study, an eco-friendly hot-melt extrusion (HME) process was applied to enhance the FA content and extractability from CO and AG. Process optimization significantly improved particle morphology and reduced size, as confirmed by Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and field emission-scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM) analysis. Quantitative High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis showed increased FA content in HME-treated extracts, which corresponded to enhanced biological efficacy. The HME extracts exhibited no cytotoxicity up to 500 µg/mL in B16F10 melanocytes and significantly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis. In HaCaT keratinocytes, the HME group promoted superior wound closure at 24 and 48 h, indicating accelerated skin regeneration. These findings support HME as a sustainable and effective strategy for developing natural ingredient-based cosmetic formulations targeting hyperpigmentation and skin repair. Full article

Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based formulation designed to enhance silicon bioavailability. The research comprises two key components: an in vitro assessment of calcium silicate dissolution and ion release, and a 28-day, single-arm, clinical evaluation of its effects on nail thickness and strength. Ion release studies demonstrated stable dissolution with significant silicon and calcium release. In the clinical study, the mean nail thickness score increased from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.09 ± 0.53, corresponding to a 39% mean improvement and nail strength scores improved from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.45 ± 0.67, reflecting a 64% average increase over 28 days of application (p < 0.001). The findings support the potential of targeted silicon delivery systems in cosmetic applications, offering an alternative to traditional oral supplementation. Full article

Cosmeceutical systems represent next-generation topical platforms designed to deliver bioactive molecules with therapeutic potential directly to the skin. This study evaluated four anti-wrinkle formulations (three creams and one emulgel) in terms of their stability, sensory characteristics, acceptability, and skin tolerance. The products incorporated a unique combination of active ingredients, including N-acetylcysteine, arginine HCl, Blainvillea camellia flower extract, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid. For the cream formulations (EG01–EG03), different emulsifiers were employed, while EG04 was developed as an emulgel. Stability testing revealed that only three out of four formulations remained physically stable, with EG04 showing phase separation. Sensory analysis assessed parameters such as spreading, absorption, shininess, stickiness, greasiness, and smoothness, with results illustrated using a radar plot. EG01 and EG03 displayed similar sensory profiles, differing mainly in shininess and greasiness, while both exhibited high smoothness. In vivo testing was conducted on female human volunteers aged 50–65 years (Fitzpatrick skin types II–IV) to evaluate tolerance and acceptability. Only EG01 and EG03, formulated with methyl glucose sesquistearate and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, respectively, demonstrated both superior sensory performance and 100% acceptability and tolerance in clinical assessment. Full article

Background: Skin cancer represents one of the most prevalent malignancies worldwide, with melanoma accounting for approximately 75% of skin cancer-related deaths despite comprising fewer than 5% of cases. Early detection dramatically improves survival rates from 14% to over 99%, highlighting the urgent need for accurate and accessible diagnostic tools. While deep learning has shown promise in dermatological diagnosis, existing approaches lack clinical explainability and deployable interfaces that bridge the gap between research innovation and practical healthcare applications. Methods: This study implemented a comprehensive multimodal deep learning framework using the HAM10000 dataset (10,015 dermatoscopic images across seven diagnostic categories). Three CNN architectures (DenseNet-121, EfficientNet-B3, ResNet-50) were systematically compared, integrating patient metadata, including age, sex, and anatomical location, with dermatoscopic image analysis. The first implementation of XRAI (eXplanation with Region-based Attribution for Images) explainability for skin lesion classification was developed, providing spatially coherent explanations aligned with clinical reasoning patterns. A deployable web-based clinical interface was created, featuring real-time inference, comprehensive safety protocols, risk stratification, and evidence-based cosmetic recommendations for benign conditions. Results: EfficientNet-B3 achieved superior performance with 89.09% test accuracy and 90.08% validation accuracy, significantly outperforming DenseNet-121 (82.83%) and ResNet-50 (78.78%). Test-time augmentation improved performance by 1.00 percentage point to 90.09%. The model demonstrated excellent performance for critical malignant conditions: melanoma (81.6% confidence), basal cell carcinoma (82.1% confidence), and actinic keratoses (88% confidence). XRAI analysis revealed clinically meaningful attention patterns focusing on irregular pigmentation for melanoma, ulcerated borders for basal cell carcinoma, and surface irregularities for precancerous lesions. Error analysis showed that misclassifications occurred primarily in visually ambiguous cases with high correlation (0.855–0.968) between model attention and ideal features. The web application successfully validated real-time diagnostic capabilities with appropriate emergency protocols for malignant conditions and comprehensive cosmetic guidance for benign lesions. Conclusions: This research successfully developed the first clinically deployable skin lesion classification system combining diagnostic accuracy with explainable AI and practical patient guidance. The integration of XRAI explainability provides essential transparency for clinical acceptance, while the web-based deployment democratizes access to advanced dermatological AI capabilities. Comprehensive validation establishes readiness for controlled clinical trials and potential integration into healthcare workflows, particularly benefiting underserved regions with limited specialist availability. This work bridges the critical gap between research-grade AI models and practical clinical utility, establishing a foundation for responsible AI integration in dermatological practice. Full article

Background: Dark-base hair fibers with Curl Pattern (CP) types 2 and 3 from Asian and European populations, respectively, are very similar, although each presents different behaviors regarding water diffusion and cosmetic treatments, including in relation to dyeing. This study aims to identify the key drivers of water diffusion in hair, particularly the role of lipids in the diffusion processes. Methods: Virgin, externally delipidized, and internally delipidized CP2 and CP3 hair strands were subjected to Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) and ATR-FTIR investigations. In addition, external and internal lipid extracts were quantified and analyzed via thin-layer chromatography–flame ionization detection (TLC/FID). Results: The results obtained indicate that CP2 hairs present lower water regain at all humidity steps and a different diffusion behavior depending on the humidity. Lower diffusion was obtained at low humidity and higher diffusion at high humidity. TLC/FID analyses indicate that CP2 fibers present a significantly higher amount of external lipids (1.4% vs. 0.4%) and internal lipids (3.2% vs. 2.6%) as compared with the CP3 fibers. Conclusions: The higher amount of internal lipids is mainly due to the greater amount of polar lipids (ceramides). Lipid extraction tends to modify the water content, leading to a more hydrated and less permeable lipid-depleted fiber. The similar water properties of the two types of lipid fiber support the fundamental role of lipids, even when present in small quantities, in the differentiation of hair types. This study highlights a potential link between the lipid composition of CP3 and CP2 hair fibers and their differences in behaviors regarding water diffusion, which could also explain varying responses to cosmetic treatments. Full article

The potent sensitizer PPD is considered a key sensitizer in hair dye contact allergy. Modification of its molecular structure to 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine (ME-PPD) reduces its skin sensitizing potency. We investigated the usage, behavior, and tolerance profile of ME-PPD-containing professional hair color products in a specifically tailored proactive market surveillance program in hairdresser salons across 5 countries. Hairdressers completed record cards for their clients, which were evaluated at the end of the program. 497 individuals received in total 2461 hair color treatments with ME-PPD-containing hair color. Feedback on compatibility was provided for 194 individuals: 6 individuals reported intolerance reactions, which were assessed as likely allergic contact dermatitis (2), likely irritation (2), or were unassessable (2); none of these reactions were severe or serious. Mild discomfort was reported by 46 individuals, while 142 individuals explicitly reported good tolerance to the ME-PPD-containing hair color. A total of 27 individuals applied ME-PPD-containing hair color more than 15 times (long-term tolerability). The study confirms good tolerability of ME-PPD-containing hair color. This is consistent with the primary prevention benefit of ME-PPD in terms of significantly reduced risk of skin sensitization induction and the reduced severity of elicitation reactions for all hair dye users. Full article

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) have gained attention in the cosmetics industry for their role in intercellular communication and tissue regeneration. They transfer bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, promoting skin repair, rejuvenation, and anti-aging effects. Human mesenchymal stem cell-derived EVs are particularly valued for their ability to enhance collagen production, reduce inflammation, and improve skin texture and hydration. However, their use is prohibited by regulatory agencies. Plant- and bacterial-derived EVs are being explored to meet the demand for innovative cosmetics. Despite their potential, challenges such as regulatory approval, high production costs, and product stability need to be addressed to fully realize the benefits of EV-based cosmetics. This paper examines the mechanisms, benefits, market trends, and prospects of EV-based skincare products, highlighting their transformative impact on the cosmetic industry. Full article