Cosmetics

The pursuit of fine chemicals from natural sources is advancing rapidly, driven by a growing demand for safe, sustainable, and high-performance ingredients in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Emerging extraction and biotransformation technologies, including enzyme-assisted procedures, precision fermentation, and green solvent systems, are enabling the selective recovery of complex molecules with enhanced purity and stability. Simultaneously, AI-guided approaches to the discovery of bioactive compounds are accelerating the identification of multifunctional molecules exhibiting, for example, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or microbiome-modulating activities. These developments not only expand the chemical diversity accessible to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors but also promote the adoption of circular bioeconomy frameworks. Together, they define a new generation of natural fine chemicals with strong potential for targeted therapeutic and cosmetic applications. Accordingly, this commentary focuses on emerging trends and key technological advances in the use of renewable, natural sources for the production of fine chemicals relevant to cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It further highlights the critical roles of biotechnology, green chemistry, and digital innovation in shaping a more sustainable future for cosmetic and pharmaceutical chemistry.

Achieving optimal skin penetration with bioactive cosmetic ingredients, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), presents ongoing challenges. This study introduces a novel elastosome-based EGF delivery system co-loading dexpanthenol, which achieves superior skin penetration and multifunctional cosmetic efficacy compared with a conventional liposome formulation. The EGF FLEXIR-SOME formulation was characterized to determine its physicochemical properties measured for comparison against a conventional liposome control. Efficacy and safety were confirmed through in vitro and in vivo evaluations, including clinical trials of the formulation and primary skin irritation tests. The formulated EGF FLEXIR-SOME particles exhibited an average diameter of 124.8 nm and a zeta potential of −57.53 mV, demonstrating enhanced stability and skin penetration relative to the control. The results of clinical trials confirmed significant efficacy in anti-aging, moisture, skin barrier improvement, and hyperpigmentation reduction. Additionally, primary skin irritation tests classified the product as a non-irritant. In conclusion, an elastosome-based EGF formulation significantly enhances skin penetration and bioavailability. The formulation effectively improves skin elasticity, hydration, and barrier function while simultaneously reducing visible signs of aging and pigmentation. This study successfully developed an innovative formulation utilizing elastosome technology, maximizing the transdermal efficiency and stability of EGF, thereby offering a novel strategy for functional cosmeceutical development.

Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AD-MSCs) secrete various growth factors that activate skin cells. This study investigated the effects of crude extracts and isolated compounds, hitorin A and hitorin B, from Chloranthus quadrifolius on AD-MSCs. The crude extract and hitorins A and B obtained from C. quadrifolius promoted cell proliferation. Furthermore, they suppressed the accumulation of excessive lipid droplets and reduced the expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ, CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein alpha, and adiponectin. The extract and hitorins A and B increased the expression of stemness marker genes, including SRY-box transcription factor 2, homeobox protein NANOG, and octamer-binding transcription factor 4. For anti-aging effects, the crude extract and hitorins A and B significantly inhibited senescence-associated-β-galactosidase activity and the gene expression of p16, p21, and p53 under hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress. Additionally, they suppressed the production of intracellular reactive oxygen species and the gene expression of interleukin-6 and interleukin-8. These findings indicate that crude extracts and hitorins A and B derived from C. quadrifolius suppress excessive adipogenic differentiation, promote cell proliferation while enhancing stem cell characteristics, and reduce oxidative stress-induced cellular aging through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. These results suggest that they are effective cosmetic ingredients for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging.