Cosmetics — Open Access Journal

Bacterial cellulose (BC) has become of great interest in recent years, as a delivery system in several areas of application, including food, drugs, and cosmetics, thanks to its exclusive advantages, such as high biocompatibility, water holding capacity, and good gas permeability. The novel approach of the authors has led to a protocol for checking the quality and safety of bacterial cellulose matrices in the manufacture of cosmetic masks. Two non-destructive techniques, near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR) and multiple light scattering (MLS), were used to verify different parameters affecting the quality of BC sheets, allowing cellulose masks to be checked over time. NIR spectroscopy allowed for discovering changes in the water content, depending on filling/packaging procedures, like flat-folding. Multiple light scattering was used to ascertain the stability of solutions in contact with masks. From a clinical standpoint, the cutaneous tolerability of biocellulose masks, and their effect on skin parameters, were evaluated through some specific “in vivo” tests. Also, a safety evaluation during application was conducted through different studies: a short-term one after single application, and a long-term one upon continued use. Full article

Several pathologies are characterized by chronic wounds and often resistant to many of the common therapies, leading to chronic infections that can become even life-threatening for patients. For this reason, the identification of new products able to ameliorate the healing process is still an on-going research. Natural compounds have been used to improve skin conditions due to their dermo-cosmetic and therapeutic activities including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and cell-migratory properties. Among these compounds, it has been recently demonstrated that Verbascoside, a phenyl propanoid glycoside widely used in the cosmetic field, can improve keratinocytes proliferation. Because of its high hydrophilic character, Verbascoside has a limited range of possible topical applications and the synthesis of ES2, a semi-synthetic derivative of Verbascoside was performed to bypass some of the drawback aspects of this molecule. In the present study, the wound healing properties of Verbascoside and ES2 were compared in both keratinocytes “in vitro” wound scratch and in wounded SKH1 mice. The results showed that both compounds were not cytotoxic and ES2 showed an efficient ability to promote the proliferation of human keratinocytes compared to Verbascoside. The findings were also confirmed in vivo but only at early time points (2/3 days). Taken together, these data suggest that the Verbascoside-derivative ES2 could be considered a novel and promising candidate for the topical treatment of wounds. Full article

Although keratin hydrolysates (KH) are added to skin care agents, detailed studies on the moisturising effects of KH are lacking. The aim of this study is to test whether adding KH into an ointment base (OB) heighten hydration of the skin and diminish transepidermal loss of water (TEWL). Formulations containing 2%, 4%, and 6% of KH (based on OB weight) were prepared. Hydration, TEWL and skin pH were measured; intervals of measurements were as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 24 and 48 h. Testing was carried out on 10 men. In terms of hydration, supplementing the OB with 2% KH is optimal, as an 11–19% increase occurs in hydration of stratum corneum (SC). All the formulations with added KH as tested caused TEWL to decline after application. Keratin hydrolysate makes for an excellent occlusive; adding it to OB results in a 30–50% reduction in TEWL after application. KH functions as a humectant as well, as it helps to bind water from the lower layers of the epidermis to the SC. Formulations with additions of 2–6% of KH were stable in structure and did not cause phase separation even after 6 months storage. Full article

Alcohol-based perfumes, e.g., eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne or au fraiche, are the most common type of fragrance products available on the market. There are also alcohol-free fragrance products, mainly in the form of solid or oil perfume. From the consumers’ point of view, such perfumery products are of interest; therefore, looking for new solutions is still interesting. Nanoemulsions are liquid, kinetically stable colloidal dispersions, consisting of an aqueous phase, an oil phase and a surfactant, with or without a co-surfactant. They are transparent, not greasy, easy to spray and spread. Additionally, they show capacity to protect fragrances from oxidation. The development of a water-based perfumes in the form of stable nanoemulsions containing fragrance compositions (in the range of 5–15%), stabilized by nonionic surfactants, allows to create safe products for a wider group of consumers, including children, adolescents and people with sensitive skin. In this article, an application of nanoemulsions as a potential form of perfumery products were described. Full article

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) emanating from human skin contribute to an individual’s body odour. Understanding the modulation of human odour by a fragrance is of significant importance to the cosmetic sector in the design, development and evaluation of new products. The present research describes an in vivo approach for passive headspace sampling of skin volatile emissions in human participants. A wearable headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) method has been employed to investigate baseline endogenous skin volatiles and the subsequent modulation of skin volatile profiles after application of a fragrance to skin. Coupled with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) this method enables characterisation of scent profiles and fragrance longevity in vivo. A total of 51 compounds were identified in participants’ skin, including 19 endogenous and 32 fragrance-derived compounds. The temporal variation in volatile profiles at different times after fragrance application was investigated. Fragrance diffusion from skin varied between participants resulting in diversified scent profiles over time. This non-invasive approach could be employed during cosmetic product development for in vivo evaluation of fragrance profiles and for assessment of the retention of fragrance components in skin to reduce reliance on expert panels during product development. Full article

Endocrine disruption has been gathering increasing attention in the past 25 years as a possible new threat for health and safety. Exposure to endocrine disruptor has been progressively linked with a growing number of increasing disease in the human population. The mechanics through which endocrine disruptors act are not yet completely clear, however a number of pathways have been identified. A key concern is the cumulative and synergic effects that endocrine disruptors could have when mixed in consumer products. We reviewed the available literature to identify known or potential endocrine disruptors, as well as endocrine active substances that could contribute to cumulative effects, in topical consumer products. The number of endocrine actives used daily in consumer products is staggering and even though most if not all are used in concentrations that are considered to be safe, we believe that the possibility of combined effects in mixtures and non-monotonic dose/response is enough to require further precautions. A combined in vitro approach based on existing, validated OECD test methods is suggested to screen consumer products and mixtures for potential interaction with estrogen and androgen hormone receptors, in order to identify products that could have cumulative effects or support their safety concerning direct endocrine disruption capabilities. Full article

Melatonin is a potent mitochondrial, cytoprotective and antioxidant molecule with potentially strong anti-aging properties. Topical melatonin has been shown to improve the clinical signs of skin aging. Melatosphere™ is a new lipid-based delivery system able to improve stability and skin penetration of melatonin when used in topical formulations. No clinical studies, using objective instrumental data, are available so far regarding the positive effect of Melatosphere™ in improving wrinkles in women with mild to moderate skin aging. In an open prospective, evaluator-blinded trial, we evaluate the effects on skin texture of two months of treatment with a Melatosphere™-based cream. Fifteen women aged >45 years with mild to moderate facial skin aging (Glogau score 2–4) participated in the trial, after providing their informed consent. An ANTERA 3D computer-assisted skin analysis evaluation for the assessment of coarse and fine wrinkles of the periorbital area and melanin content was performed at baseline and after two months of treatment. An evaluator-blinded Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) of skin elastosis, roughness, level of dyschromia, skin dryness and the presence of actinic damage was also performed at the same time points using a four-grade score from 0 (no sign) to 3 (severe sign). At baseline, the mean (SD) IGA score was 8.2 (1.0). After two months, the IGA score significantly decreased to 4.2 (1.4) (49% reduction) (p = 0.0007). ANTERA 3D evaluations showed a significant reduction in the coarse and fine wrinkle volume in the target area of −31% and −18%, respectively. Melanin content was reduced significantly by −17%. Topical melatonin carried in Melatosphere™ improves, in the short term, signs of skin aging evaluated clinically and using the ANTERA 3D device in women with mild to moderate skin aging. Full article

Quality, safety, and efficacy concerns added to instability, poor absorption, and the dispersion of actives are common problems while formulating plant-based cosmetics. Furthermore, a correct balance between the stability of the emulsion, the sensory profile, and the high efficacy has to be considered to formulate an effective product. In this paper, we demonstrate that rheology is a methodological tool that can be used while designing a new product. In particular, we developed an O/W emulsion which is easy to spread on irritated skin, and that can soothe the redness and discomfort caused by the exposure to both physical and chemical irritating agents. The green active mixture consists of three natural raw materials: Bosexil^®, Zanthalene^®, and Xilogel^®. Each ingredient has a well-demonstrated efficacy in terms of soothing, anti-itching, and moisturizing properties respectively. Starting from the selection of a new green emulsifying system, through the analysis of the rheological properties, we obtained a stable and easy-to-apply o/w emulsion. The efficacy of the optimized product was assessed in vitro on intact and injured skin using the SkinEthic™ Reconstituted Human Epidermis (RHE) as a biological model. Full article

The increased consumer awareness towards hazards related with sun exposure has given a boost in the cosmetics industry and particularly the sun care market. Human skin is continually being threatened by the UV irradiation present in sunlight and acute UV exposure leads to skin photoaging. Cosmetic and/or dermatological applications include several bioactive compounds that contribute to the regulation of epidermal homeostasis by providing protection against solar radiation and improving the antioxidant activity of epidermis. Plant extracts are sources of active ingredients with intense therapeutic properties, and the topical application or oral intake of these compounds could ameliorate skin condition. Nowadays, there is a growing demand for the application of the bioactive agents contained in agro-industrial byproducts in sun care products, since many of them have shown promising properties as skin photoprotectants. However, well-conducted clinical studies are required to prove their safety and efficacy before they could be regularly used. Environmentally friendly extraction and sustainable techniques are therefore under examination for recovering such compounds from agro-industrial byproducts and converting them into innovative high-value natural ingredients used in cosmetic formulations. Full article

Cosmetics still retain their brilliant effect, but public concern about their toxicity has become a hot issue. Trace amounts of toxic heavy metals can be either intentionally added to cosmetics or present as impurities in the raw materials. We therefore assessed the levels of lead, nickel, copper, zinc and iron in six brands of lipstick and six brands of cosmetic powder that are widely available in local Polish markets. The cosmetics were digested and analyzed for the metals using flame atomic absorption spectrophotometry. Lead and nickel were found in some powders, but none in lipstick samples. This study revealed that the levels of these metals were higher than the specifications reported in the literature data. On the other hand, the copper content was determined at the level of 435 mg/kg in one sample of powder and at 75.92 mg/kg in one lipstick. Iron levels ranged from 0 to 12,168.57 mg/kg depending on the brand of powder or lipstick, and were generally higher in powders. Zinc was detected in the range of 1.73–488.31 mg/kg in all 12 samples. The results lead to the conclusion that constant control of metallic content in lipsticks, powders and other facial cosmetics should be seriously considered. Full article

The hair follicle (HF) is a dynamic “mini-organ” which undergoes bi-continuous cycles of growth, destruction and rest. The molecular mechanisms underlying the HF cycle are complex yet not fully understood. Anyhow, it is clear that the epithelial–mesenchymal interactions, and in particular the cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast (DPF) and the keratinocytes of the outer root sheath (ORSK) play a pivotal role. Aim of this study is the evaluation of the biological activity of anisotropic osmolyte solutions on the HF cycle. As reported in recent studies, dermal papilla cells deeply modify their gene expression profile when cultured as monolayers, but their transcriptional pattern can be partially restored when they are cultured as 3-dimensional spheroids. This draws our attention to the discovery that the spatial distribution of cells in the growth medium is fundamental in order to produce a verisimilar model. Therefore, we used the hanging drop technology to produce a scaffold-free micro-tissue model applied to a DPF-ORSK co-culture in order to create a µHF 3-dimensional model. As a result, this system was capable of evaluating the efficacy of the anisotropic osmolyte solutions on the progressive increase of the follicle turnover and ‘health’. Moreover, an in silico model was used in order to screen the most promising combination of osmolyte molecules. In vivo objective evaluations were finally carried out on volunteers having hair disorders. Full article

Skin aging is a complex process which involves all the layers of the epidermis and dermis. In order to slow skin aging, methods are researched which would strengthen and protect skin stem cells. Science is in search of the right method to stimulate the proliferation of epidermal stem cells. Plant stem cells show outstanding anti-aging properties, as they can, among other activities, stimulate fibroblasts to synthesise collagen, which, in turn, stimulates skin regeneration. One of the most important agents which give anti-aging properties to plant stem cell extracts is kinetin (6-furfuryladenine). This compound belongs to a cytokine group and is considered to be a strong antioxidant which protects protein and nucleic acids from oxidation and glycoxidation processes. It enables cells to remove the excess of free radicals to protect them from oxidative stress. Full article

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy. Full article

Hydroxyapatite nanoparticles (HAP-NP) are incorporated in oral care products such as toothpastes and mouthwashes to treat dental sensitivity or to promote enamel remineralisation. Despite the good performance of HAP-NP in this application, it is important to ensure its safety for consumers. For that reason, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) evaluated the safety of HAP-NP as an oral care ingredient, but the issued opinion was not completely conclusive and the SCCS recommended that additional tests should be performed. Here, we used a commercially available human gingival epithelium (HGE) as a non-animal alternative and MTT cell viability, LDH activity, and IL-1alpha production were evaluated after 3.1% HAP-NP treatment for 10 min, 1 h, and 3 h. Moreover, the absorption of HAP-NP in the gingival tissue was assessed by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis. Finally, the dissolution behaviour of HAP-NP in simulated gastric fluid was also investigated. No deleterious effect was observed for HGE tissues incubated with HAP-NP for all time-points and parameters evaluated. Moreover, a complete dissolution of 3.1% HAP-NP in simulated gastric fluid was observed after 7.5 min at 37 °C. In conclusion, our results evidence the safety of HAP-NP for oral care products with the use of an in vitro replacement alternative for human gingival epithelium and a simulated gastric fluid assay. Full article

Capacitive contact imaging has shown potential in measuring skin properties including hydration, micro relief analysis, as well as solvent penetration measurements. Through calibration, we can also measure the absolute permittivity of the skin, and from absolute permittivity we then work out the absolute water content and absolute solvent content in skin. This paper presents our latest study of capacitive contact imaging for skin characterizations and vivo skin solvent penetration. The results show that with capacitive contact imaging, it is possible not only to assess the skin damaging, but also potentially possible to differentiate different types of skin damages. The results also show that with capacitive contact imaging, it is also possible to measure the solvent penetration through skin and to quantify the solvent concentration within skin. Full article

Bioactive ingredients from natural sources possess well-known positive effects in cosmetic applications. Among them, phenolic acids have emerged with very interesting potential. Caffeic acid (CAF) is one of the most promising active compounds because it possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antitumoral and anti-wrinkle effects. In order to increase its local bioavailability in topical applications, the vehiculation of caffeic acid can lead to a new raw material of cosmetic interest. For this purpose, clay minerals possess excellent properties, such as low or null toxicity and good biocompatibility. Clays are able to host a wide range of active ingredients in the interlayer region, using a green process known as intercalation reaction. The hosting of cosmetic actives into the layered structure of anionic clays allows the preparation of new materials with enhanced stability towards oxidation and photodegradation, better local bioavailability, and easier workability. In this paper, the successful vehiculation of caffeic acid into anionic clay is presented. The obtained hybrid is very promising for the cosmetic market because of its higher bioavailability and prolonged antioxidant activity. Full article

This work discusses the way people have used plants over time (basically since Ancient Egypt) to care for their physical aspect, and also how natural resources (especially plants) are currently used in personal-care products. Many plant species are ancient. This paper also shows examples of plants used for personal care which are investigated with new scientific advances. Full article

The Teslar is a facial massager that emits a weak electric current, where users have reported a beneficial effect on skin elasticity with continued use. Accordingly, we conducted a clinical utility study and a comprehensive gene analysis, with cultured human fibroblasts to investigate the utility and mechanism of this treatment. In this clinical utility study, we found significant improvement in skin elasticity in Teslar treatments, compared to controls after two weeks of treatment. In cell experiments, we found that adenosine triphosphate synthesis and collagen contraction were promoted in fibroblasts cultured in type I collagen gel, following Teslar treatment. We considered that Teslar treatment exerted a structurally regenerative effect on the dermal matrix, based on the results of GeneChip^® Expression Analysis. In particular, we demonstrated that Teslar treatment promotes type I collagen mRNA expression and fibulin-5/DANCE (Developmental arteries and neural crest EGF (epidermal growth factor)-like) mRNA expression and protein levels, which are reduced with aging. We also found increases in LTBP-3 (Latent TGF-β binding protein-3) and CSPG4 (Chondroitin sulfate proteoglycan 4) mRNA expression levels. Based on these results, we considered that Teslar treatment promoted dermal regeneration and recovery of skin elasticity. Full article

(1) Background: Açai berry extract is known for its high content in polyphenols and thus is a promising ingredient for cosmetic antiaging formulations; (2) Methods: In this study, the açai extract was firstly evaluated for its total phenol content (Folin Ciocalteau essay) and antioxidant activity (radical scavenging activity—DPPH; radical cation scavenging capacity—ABTS; ferric reducing antioxidant capacity—FRAP). Next, the açai extract was included in an O/W formulation and again was evaluated for its polyphenol content and antioxidant capacity. The formulation was tested for general characteristics, physicochemical properties and microbial stability. The proliferative effect on human immortalized fibroblasts was evaluated by the MTT essay, while TAC assay served to confirm that fibroblasts are protected from UV irradiation. The irritant potential was verified on 20 volunteers. The study concluded with the assessment of the sensorial characteristics of the cosmetic formulation; (3) Results: The pure açai extract exhibited high polyphenol content and antioxidant activity, and these characteristics were preserved in the O/W formulation as well. The O/W cosmetic formulation proved to be stable under accelerated and normal conditions, and the preservatives were successful in challenging the resistance against microbial contamination. The mean irritant potential was zero in all volunteers, and the cosmetic formulation showed a good sensorial profile; (4) Conclusions: Açai extract is an interesting ingredient for cosmetic antiaging formulations. Full article