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Cosmetics, Volume 12, Issue 6 (December 2025) – 3 articles

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20 pages, 2786 KB  
Article
Persicaria tinctoria Extract Mitigates UV-Associated DNA Damage and Inflammation, While Boosting Vitamin D3 and Melanin in Human Skin
by Morgane de Tollenaere, Catherine Zanchetta, Anaïs Durduret, Jessy Martinez, Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 237; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060237 (registering DOI) - 23 Oct 2025
Abstract
Benefit/risk management of skin exposure to sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) rays, is mainly driven by photoaging, cancer incidence, and the requirement for vitamin D3 synthesis. Antioxidant phytocompounds are considered to be a valuable source of molecules to protect skin from UV-induced damage, but [...] Read more.
Benefit/risk management of skin exposure to sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) rays, is mainly driven by photoaging, cancer incidence, and the requirement for vitamin D3 synthesis. Antioxidant phytocompounds are considered to be a valuable source of molecules to protect skin from UV-induced damage, but their impact on other UV-related metabolic pathways is rarely described. In this study, an indigoid-rich Persicaria tinctoria extract (PTE) was evaluated on three consequences of UV exposure: DNA damage and inflammation, vitamin D3 content, and melanogenesis. A moderate UV exposure was applied on skin models, corresponding to approximately 1 h exposure in the spring in western Europe. UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation were measured through the quantification of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and cytokines. Response to heat stress was quantified through the release of prostaglandin. Then, the impact of PTE on vitamin D3 and melanin synthesis was observed. PTE decreased by −56% in the number of cells presenting CPDs. PTE decreased the production of pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-6 (−59%) and stimulated the release of the protective cytokine IL-1Ra (+49%). It decreased PGE2 release by −27%. In skin explants, PTE boosted the vitamin D3 concentration (+345%). Several genes involved in melanogenesis were up-regulated by PTE (MC1R × 2.46, MITF × 1.69, TYR × 2.06, MLPH × 1.53). It promoted melanin content by +126% and by +86% when associated with SPF 30. The extract decreased the amount of protective eumelanin, leading to visible skin tanning of reconstructed human epidermis (L*-15%, ITA −125%). As a new finding, PTE minimized DNA damage and inflammation caused by a daily dose of UV, and surprisingly, promoted vitamin D3 and eumelanin synthesis, suggesting that it represents an opportunity to reconcile skin protection and the physiological need for sunlight. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
15 pages, 624 KB  
Review
Evaluation, Symptoms, Influencing Factors, and Prospects of Sensitive Scalp: A Literature Review
by Xiaoxi Yan, Qian Jiao, Congfen He, Yan Jia, Huaming He and Cheng Zhou
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 236; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060236 - 22 Oct 2025
Abstract
Sensitive scalp (SSC) is a common but often overlooked dermatological state, characterized by subjective symptoms such as pruritus, tingling, tightness, pain, or burning sensations. Primary SSC typically occurs in the absence of visible clinical inflammation. Numerous studies have suggested that the onset of [...] Read more.
Sensitive scalp (SSC) is a common but often overlooked dermatological state, characterized by subjective symptoms such as pruritus, tingling, tightness, pain, or burning sensations. Primary SSC typically occurs in the absence of visible clinical inflammation. Numerous studies have suggested that the onset of SSC may be influenced by a variety of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including physical (ultraviolet radiation, changes in temperature and humidity), chemical (cosmetic ingredients, environmental pollutants), and psychological factors (emotional stress). This article provides a narrative review of the current research on SSC, drawing on literature published between 1963 and 2024 in PubMed, Elsevier, and Web of Science databases. We summarize its hallmark symptoms, available evaluation methods, potential mechanisms, and contributing factors and propose corresponding scalp care recommendations. This review aims to offer theoretical insights into the pathogenesis of SSC and to support the development of effective protective strategies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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17 pages, 2884 KB  
Article
Efficacy and Safety of a Novel Anhydrous 0.1% Retinal-Based Concentrate with Hydrophilic Actives for Photoaged Skin: A Six-Week Prospective Study
by Ulf Åkerström, Chloé Gaudicheau, Blandine Locret and Johanna Maria Gillbro
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 235; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060235 - 22 Oct 2025
Abstract
Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and [...] Read more.
Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation—while offering improved tolerability compared to prescription-based retinoids like all-trans retinoic acid. However, their instability in formulations and limited bioavailability when applied topically remain major challenges. Objective: This exploratory study aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of a novel mix-activated anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate formulated also with hydrophilic active ingredients—N-acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide, ascorbic acid, and alpha-glucan oligosaccharide—in improving signs of skin aging over six weeks. Methods: A prospective, single-center study was conducted with 27 healthy adults (24 female and 3 male, aged 40–69 years, 21 with skin phototype III and 6 with phototype II) exhibiting visible signs of photoaging. Participants applied the retinal concentrate once daily, mixed in a 1:2 ratio with a moisturizer before application. Objective skin parameters, including pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, texture, volume, and pore visibility, were assessed using the Antera 3D imaging system at baseline and after six weeks. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed at week six. Statistical significance was determined using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (p < 0.05) and was corrected for multiple analyses. Results: Significant improvements were observed across all parameters: pigmentation (−12%, p < 0.0001), fine lines (−14%, p < 0.0001), wrinkle depth (−5%, p = 0.0045), skin texture (+12%, p < 0.0001), volume irregularities (−15%, p < 0.0001), and pore visibility (−24%, p < 0.0001). No significant change in redness was detected (p = 0.6664), indicating a good tolerability to the test product. Self-assessments reflected high user satisfaction: 81% reported improved skin appearance, 43% noted reduced need for makeup use, and 40% observed visible improvements already within two weeks. Conclusions: The anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate with hydrophilic actives significantly improved clinical signs of photoaging without causing irritation. The innovative mix-activated formulation stabilizes sensitive ingredients and enhances their efficacy, offering a novel, active, and well-tolerated approach to anti-aging skincare. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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