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Cosmetics, Volume 12, Issue 5 (October 2025) – 22 articles

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15 pages, 5237 KB  
Review
Laser-Assisted Exosome Delivery (LAED) with Fractional CO2 Laser: A Pilot Two-Case Report and Narrative Review
by Alessandro Clementi, Fortunato Cassalia, Giovanni Cannarozzo, Luca Guarino, Elena Zappia, Luigi Bennardo, Roberto Mazzetto, Andrea Danese, Caterina Longo and Steven Paul Nisticò
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 199; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050199 - 12 Sep 2025
Abstract
Laser-assisted exosome delivery (LAED) combines ablative fractional lasers with immediate topical application of exosomes. Here, we introduce the LAED concept and report two uncontrolled feasibility observations: a 62-year-old man with atrophic acne scars and a 68-year-old woman with diffuse dyschromia underwent fractional CO [...] Read more.
Laser-assisted exosome delivery (LAED) combines ablative fractional lasers with immediate topical application of exosomes. Here, we introduce the LAED concept and report two uncontrolled feasibility observations: a 62-year-old man with atrophic acne scars and a 68-year-old woman with diffuse dyschromia underwent fractional CO2 laser treatment followed by topical exosomes. Both cases showed early, encouraging signals of clinical improvement and shorter downtime, with good tolerability. An exploratory day-7 patient self-evaluation using a 5-point Likert scale for speed/comfort of recovery yielded 5/5 in both cases. Given the two-case, non-comparative design, causality cannot be inferred, and efficacy remains hypothesis-generating. These preliminary findings motivate controlled trials with standardized objective and patient-reported measures and longer follow-up to determine whether LAED truly enhances the cosmetic benefits of fractional laser treatment. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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19 pages, 1180 KB  
Review
Microbial Contamination in Cosmetic Products
by Jéssica Duarte da Silva, Francisco A. M. Silva and Célia Fortuna Rodrigues
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 198; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050198 - 10 Sep 2025
Abstract
European legislation defines cosmetics as substances or mixtures designed to contact external body parts for cleaning, protection, fragrance, maintenance, or appearance modification. Cosmetic regulation has become increasingly important in recent years, as the number of consumers continues to grow. One of the major [...] Read more.
European legislation defines cosmetics as substances or mixtures designed to contact external body parts for cleaning, protection, fragrance, maintenance, or appearance modification. Cosmetic regulation has become increasingly important in recent years, as the number of consumers continues to grow. One of the major challenges of the cosmetic industry is effectively communicating to consumers the critical need to avoid using expired products for several safety reasons, with microbial contamination being among the most significant concerns. A key research priority involves understanding how bacterial and fungal populations commonly proliferate within cosmetic formulations. Regulatory standards strictly prohibit specific microorganisms in finished cosmetic products, as specified in EMA guidelines, making microbiological assessment an essential component of product evaluation. This review examines the prevalence, risks, and control measures associated with microbial contamination in cosmetic products. Special attention is given to the most isolated microorganisms, factors contributing to contamination, and current preservation strategies in the cosmetic industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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16 pages, 3086 KB  
Article
Eco-Friendly Enhancement of Ferulic Acid-Rich Extracts from Cnidium officinale and Angelica gigas via Hot-Melt Extrusion for Skin Brightening and Regeneration
by Yoo-Na Jeon, Han-Sol You, So-Hee Jang and Jong-Suep Baek
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 197; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050197 - 10 Sep 2025
Viewed by 79
Abstract
Cnidium officinale (CO) and Angelica gigas (AG) are traditional herbal medicines known for their bioactive compound ferulic acid (FA), which exerts skin-whitening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and UV-protective effects. However, conventional extraction yields are limited and often require solvent-intensive processes. In this study, an eco-friendly [...] Read more.
Cnidium officinale (CO) and Angelica gigas (AG) are traditional herbal medicines known for their bioactive compound ferulic acid (FA), which exerts skin-whitening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and UV-protective effects. However, conventional extraction yields are limited and often require solvent-intensive processes. In this study, an eco-friendly hot-melt extrusion (HME) process was applied to enhance the FA content and extractability from CO and AG. Process optimization significantly improved particle morphology and reduced size, as confirmed by Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and field emission-scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM) analysis. Quantitative High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis showed increased FA content in HME-treated extracts, which corresponded to enhanced biological efficacy. The HME extracts exhibited no cytotoxicity up to 500 µg/mL in B16F10 melanocytes and significantly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis. In HaCaT keratinocytes, the HME group promoted superior wound closure at 24 and 48 h, indicating accelerated skin regeneration. These findings support HME as a sustainable and effective strategy for developing natural ingredient-based cosmetic formulations targeting hyperpigmentation and skin repair. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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14 pages, 665 KB  
Article
Topical Delivery of Calcium Silicate for Nail Health: A Clinical and Experimental Evaluation
by Viktoria Engqvist and Håkan Engqvist
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050196 - 9 Sep 2025
Viewed by 154
Abstract
Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based [...] Read more.
Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based formulation designed to enhance silicon bioavailability. The research comprises two key components: an in vitro assessment of calcium silicate dissolution and ion release, and a 28-day, single-arm, clinical evaluation of its effects on nail thickness and strength. Ion release studies demonstrated stable dissolution with significant silicon and calcium release. In the clinical study, the mean nail thickness score increased from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.09 ± 0.53, corresponding to a 39% mean improvement and nail strength scores improved from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.45 ± 0.67, reflecting a 64% average increase over 28 days of application (p < 0.001). The findings support the potential of targeted silicon delivery systems in cosmetic applications, offering an alternative to traditional oral supplementation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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24 pages, 2778 KB  
Article
Multi-Active Cosmeceutical Formulations: Stability, Sensory Performance, and Skin Tolerability
by Magdalena Bîrsan, Ecaterina Gore, Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu, Robert-Alexandru Vlad, Paula Antonoaea, Cezara Pintea, Andrada Pintea, Cornelia-Titiana Cotoi, Alin-Viorel Focșa and Adriana Ciurba
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 195; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050195 - 8 Sep 2025
Viewed by 131
Abstract
Cosmeceutical systems represent next-generation topical platforms designed to deliver bioactive molecules with therapeutic potential directly to the skin. This study evaluated four anti-wrinkle formulations (three creams and one emulgel) in terms of their stability, sensory characteristics, acceptability, and skin tolerance. The products incorporated [...] Read more.
Cosmeceutical systems represent next-generation topical platforms designed to deliver bioactive molecules with therapeutic potential directly to the skin. This study evaluated four anti-wrinkle formulations (three creams and one emulgel) in terms of their stability, sensory characteristics, acceptability, and skin tolerance. The products incorporated a unique combination of active ingredients, including N-acetylcysteine, arginine HCl, Blainvillea camellia flower extract, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid. For the cream formulations (EG01–EG03), different emulsifiers were employed, while EG04 was developed as an emulgel. Stability testing revealed that only three out of four formulations remained physically stable, with EG04 showing phase separation. Sensory analysis assessed parameters such as spreading, absorption, shininess, stickiness, greasiness, and smoothness, with results illustrated using a radar plot. EG01 and EG03 displayed similar sensory profiles, differing mainly in shininess and greasiness, while both exhibited high smoothness. In vivo testing was conducted on female human volunteers aged 50–65 years (Fitzpatrick skin types II–IV) to evaluate tolerance and acceptability. Only EG01 and EG03, formulated with methyl glucose sesquistearate and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, respectively, demonstrated both superior sensory performance and 100% acceptability and tolerance in clinical assessment. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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38 pages, 15014 KB  
Article
Web-Based Multimodal Deep Learning Platform with XRAI Explainability for Real-Time Skin Lesion Classification and Clinical Decision Support
by Serra Aksoy, Pinar Demircioglu and Ismail Bogrekci
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 194; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050194 - 8 Sep 2025
Viewed by 223
Abstract
Background: Skin cancer represents one of the most prevalent malignancies worldwide, with melanoma accounting for approximately 75% of skin cancer-related deaths despite comprising fewer than 5% of cases. Early detection dramatically improves survival rates from 14% to over 99%, highlighting the urgent need [...] Read more.
Background: Skin cancer represents one of the most prevalent malignancies worldwide, with melanoma accounting for approximately 75% of skin cancer-related deaths despite comprising fewer than 5% of cases. Early detection dramatically improves survival rates from 14% to over 99%, highlighting the urgent need for accurate and accessible diagnostic tools. While deep learning has shown promise in dermatological diagnosis, existing approaches lack clinical explainability and deployable interfaces that bridge the gap between research innovation and practical healthcare applications. Methods: This study implemented a comprehensive multimodal deep learning framework using the HAM10000 dataset (10,015 dermatoscopic images across seven diagnostic categories). Three CNN architectures (DenseNet-121, EfficientNet-B3, ResNet-50) were systematically compared, integrating patient metadata, including age, sex, and anatomical location, with dermatoscopic image analysis. The first implementation of XRAI (eXplanation with Region-based Attribution for Images) explainability for skin lesion classification was developed, providing spatially coherent explanations aligned with clinical reasoning patterns. A deployable web-based clinical interface was created, featuring real-time inference, comprehensive safety protocols, risk stratification, and evidence-based cosmetic recommendations for benign conditions. Results: EfficientNet-B3 achieved superior performance with 89.09% test accuracy and 90.08% validation accuracy, significantly outperforming DenseNet-121 (82.83%) and ResNet-50 (78.78%). Test-time augmentation improved performance by 1.00 percentage point to 90.09%. The model demonstrated excellent performance for critical malignant conditions: melanoma (81.6% confidence), basal cell carcinoma (82.1% confidence), and actinic keratoses (88% confidence). XRAI analysis revealed clinically meaningful attention patterns focusing on irregular pigmentation for melanoma, ulcerated borders for basal cell carcinoma, and surface irregularities for precancerous lesions. Error analysis showed that misclassifications occurred primarily in visually ambiguous cases with high correlation (0.855–0.968) between model attention and ideal features. The web application successfully validated real-time diagnostic capabilities with appropriate emergency protocols for malignant conditions and comprehensive cosmetic guidance for benign lesions. Conclusions: This research successfully developed the first clinically deployable skin lesion classification system combining diagnostic accuracy with explainable AI and practical patient guidance. The integration of XRAI explainability provides essential transparency for clinical acceptance, while the web-based deployment democratizes access to advanced dermatological AI capabilities. Comprehensive validation establishes readiness for controlled clinical trials and potential integration into healthcare workflows, particularly benefiting underserved regions with limited specialist availability. This work bridges the critical gap between research-grade AI models and practical clinical utility, establishing a foundation for responsible AI integration in dermatological practice. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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16 pages, 1299 KB  
Article
Role of Lipids in Water Permeation of Different Curl Pattern Hair Types
by Luisa Coderch, Laura Sabatier, Isabelle Pasini, Cristina Alonso, Meritxell Martí and Nawel Baghdadli
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 193; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050193 - 4 Sep 2025
Viewed by 367
Abstract
Background: Dark-base hair fibers with Curl Pattern (CP) types 2 and 3 from Asian and European populations, respectively, are very similar, although each presents different behaviors regarding water diffusion and cosmetic treatments, including in relation to dyeing. This study aims to identify the [...] Read more.
Background: Dark-base hair fibers with Curl Pattern (CP) types 2 and 3 from Asian and European populations, respectively, are very similar, although each presents different behaviors regarding water diffusion and cosmetic treatments, including in relation to dyeing. This study aims to identify the key drivers of water diffusion in hair, particularly the role of lipids in the diffusion processes. Methods: Virgin, externally delipidized, and internally delipidized CP2 and CP3 hair strands were subjected to Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) and ATR-FTIR investigations. In addition, external and internal lipid extracts were quantified and analyzed via thin-layer chromatography–flame ionization detection (TLC/FID). Results: The results obtained indicate that CP2 hairs present lower water regain at all humidity steps and a different diffusion behavior depending on the humidity. Lower diffusion was obtained at low humidity and higher diffusion at high humidity. TLC/FID analyses indicate that CP2 fibers present a significantly higher amount of external lipids (1.4% vs. 0.4%) and internal lipids (3.2% vs. 2.6%) as compared with the CP3 fibers. Conclusions: The higher amount of internal lipids is mainly due to the greater amount of polar lipids (ceramides). Lipid extraction tends to modify the water content, leading to a more hydrated and less permeable lipid-depleted fiber. The similar water properties of the two types of lipid fiber support the fundamental role of lipids, even when present in small quantities, in the differentiation of hair types. This study highlights a potential link between the lipid composition of CP3 and CP2 hair fibers and their differences in behaviors regarding water diffusion, which could also explain varying responses to cosmetic treatments. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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12 pages, 972 KB  
Article
Usage and Behavioral Data of Consumers Using Hair Dye Products Containing 2-Methoxymethyl-P-Phenylenediamine
by Monika Kock, Carsten Goebel, Lidia Mihailescu, Maike Seib, Agnieszka Malesa, Anthony A. Gaspari and Brunhilde Blömeke
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 192; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050192 - 2 Sep 2025
Viewed by 470
Abstract
The potent sensitizer PPD is considered a key sensitizer in hair dye contact allergy. Modification of its molecular structure to 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine (ME-PPD) reduces its skin sensitizing potency. We investigated the usage, behavior, and tolerance profile of ME-PPD-containing professional hair color products in a [...] Read more.
The potent sensitizer PPD is considered a key sensitizer in hair dye contact allergy. Modification of its molecular structure to 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine (ME-PPD) reduces its skin sensitizing potency. We investigated the usage, behavior, and tolerance profile of ME-PPD-containing professional hair color products in a specifically tailored proactive market surveillance program in hairdresser salons across 5 countries. Hairdressers completed record cards for their clients, which were evaluated at the end of the program. 497 individuals received in total 2461 hair color treatments with ME-PPD-containing hair color. Feedback on compatibility was provided for 194 individuals: 6 individuals reported intolerance reactions, which were assessed as likely allergic contact dermatitis (2), likely irritation (2), or were unassessable (2); none of these reactions were severe or serious. Mild discomfort was reported by 46 individuals, while 142 individuals explicitly reported good tolerance to the ME-PPD-containing hair color. A total of 27 individuals applied ME-PPD-containing hair color more than 15 times (long-term tolerability). The study confirms good tolerability of ME-PPD-containing hair color. This is consistent with the primary prevention benefit of ME-PPD in terms of significantly reduced risk of skin sensitization induction and the reduced severity of elicitation reactions for all hair dye users. Full article
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25 pages, 615 KB  
Review
The Transformative Impact of Extracellular Vesicles on the Cosmetics Industry: A Comprehensive Review
by Valéria Dal Col, Fábio Fernandes Ribas and Rodrigo Pinheiro Araldi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 191; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050191 - 2 Sep 2025
Viewed by 1092
Abstract
Extracellular vesicles (EVs) have gained attention in the cosmetics industry for their role in intercellular communication and tissue regeneration. They transfer bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, promoting skin repair, rejuvenation, and anti-aging effects. Human mesenchymal stem cell-derived EVs are [...] Read more.
Extracellular vesicles (EVs) have gained attention in the cosmetics industry for their role in intercellular communication and tissue regeneration. They transfer bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids, promoting skin repair, rejuvenation, and anti-aging effects. Human mesenchymal stem cell-derived EVs are particularly valued for their ability to enhance collagen production, reduce inflammation, and improve skin texture and hydration. However, their use is prohibited by regulatory agencies. Plant- and bacterial-derived EVs are being explored to meet the demand for innovative cosmetics. Despite their potential, challenges such as regulatory approval, high production costs, and product stability need to be addressed to fully realize the benefits of EV-based cosmetics. This paper examines the mechanisms, benefits, market trends, and prospects of EV-based skincare products, highlighting their transformative impact on the cosmetic industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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21 pages, 3818 KB  
Article
26-SNP Panel Aids Guiding Androgenetic Alopecia Therapy and Provides Insight into Mechanisms of Action
by Hannah Gaboardi, Valentina Russo, Laura Vila-Vecilla, Vishal Patel and Gustavo Torres De Souza
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 190; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050190 - 2 Sep 2025
Viewed by 765
Abstract
Inter-individual variability in response to androgenetic alopecia (AGA) therapies remains a therapeutic challenge. This study evaluated the clinical and mechanistic utility of a 26-SNP pharmacogenetic panel in guiding treatment decisions. By using a database containing data from 252 individuals stratified by genotype, overall [...] Read more.
Inter-individual variability in response to androgenetic alopecia (AGA) therapies remains a therapeutic challenge. This study evaluated the clinical and mechanistic utility of a 26-SNP pharmacogenetic panel in guiding treatment decisions. By using a database containing data from 252 individuals stratified by genotype, overall response rates were high (85.6–91.0%), exceeding published benchmarks for minoxidil, finasteride, and dutasteride. SNP association analysis identified rs1042028 in SULT1A1 as a robust predictor of poor response across all three drugs (minoxidil: p = 2.4 × 10−8, OR = 0.09; dutasteride: p = 0.023, OR = 0.21; finasteride: p = 0.025, OR = 0.11). For dutasteride, the TT genotype of rs39848 in SRD5A1 was also associated with reduced efficacy (p = 0.018, OR = 0.02). SNP–SNP interaction analysis revealed significant epistatic effects between genes involved in prostaglandin signalling and oxidative stress response, including PTGFR × MUC1 (p = 5.38 × 10−6) and GPR44 × FUT2 (p = 9.4 × 10−5). Network enrichment analyses further supported drug-specific mechanistic clusters. Importantly, no statistically significant differences in response were observed between pharmacogenetically guided treatment groups (p > 0.1), suggesting successful genotype-based alignment. Together, these findings demonstrate that SNP-informed therapy can enhance efficacy, clarify drug mechanisms, and provide a foundation for precision treatment in AGA. Full article
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20 pages, 1185 KB  
Communication
Anti-Aging Potential of Bioactive Peptides Derived from Casein Hydrolyzed with Kiwi Actinidin: Integration of In Silico and In Vitro Study
by Nicolas Caicedo, Lady L. Gamboa, Yhors Ciro, Constain H. Salamanca and Jose Oñate-Garzón
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050189 - 1 Sep 2025
Viewed by 620
Abstract
Background: Skin aging is mainly associated with oxidative stress and enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin by protease activity. Peptides have antioxidant capacity and inhibitory effects on protease enzymes. Objective: The purpose of this study was to obtain peptides with in vitro anti-aging [...] Read more.
Background: Skin aging is mainly associated with oxidative stress and enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin by protease activity. Peptides have antioxidant capacity and inhibitory effects on protease enzymes. Objective: The purpose of this study was to obtain peptides with in vitro anti-aging activity from the enzymatic hydrolysis of bovine casein with actinidin, a protease extracted from the green kiwi fruit (Actinidia deliciosa) Methodology: The enzyme actinidin was extracted from the pulp of the kiwi fruit, purified by ion exchange chromatography and characterized by polyacrylamide electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE). Subsequently, the extracted enzyme was used to hydrolyze commercial bovine casein at 37 °C for 30 min, precipitating the peptide fraction with trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and centrifuged. To determine the anti-aging potential of the peptides in vitro, antioxidant activity was evaluated using the ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) radical. Additionally, the inhibitory capacity of the peptides against collagenase and elastase enzymes was also studied. To complement the in vitro results, the enzymatic hydrolysis of casein with actinidin was simulated. The binding energy (ΔG) of each of the hydrolysates with the collagenase and elastase enzymes was calculated using molecular docking to predict the peptide sequences with the highest probability of interaction. Results: Actinidin was extracted and purified exhibiting a molecular weight close to 27 kDa. The enzyme hydrolyzed the substrate by 91.6%, and the resulting hydrolysates showed moderate in vitro anti-aging activity: antioxidant (17.5%), anticollagenase (18.55%), and antielastase (28.6%). In silico results revealed 66 peptide sequences of which 30.3% consisted of 4–8 amino acids, a suitable size to facilitate interaction with structural targets. The sequences with the highest affinity were FALPQYLK and VIPYVRYL for collagenase and elastase, respectively. Conclusions: Despite the modest inhibition values, the use of a fruit-derived enzyme and a food-grade substrate is in line with current trends in sustainable and natural cosmetics. These findings highlight the great potential for laying the groundwork for future research into actinidin-derived peptides as multifunctional and eco-conscious ingredients for the development of next-generation anti-aging formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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22 pages, 1661 KB  
Article
Effects of Oral Fish Collagen and l-Cystine on Skin Ageing in Mature Women and Skin Imperfections in Young Women: Findings from Two Randomised, Three-Arm, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Studies
by Fabrice Perin, Christelle Bruno-Bonnet, Jean-Philippe Soulard, Mouna Rahabi, Joël Duperray, Kunkanit Suntipraron and Kunyanatt Chalothorn
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 188; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050188 - 28 Aug 2025
Viewed by 817
Abstract
Collagen is an essential ingredient in dietary supplements for its anti-ageing benefits, and l-cystine-based supplementation has garnered interest for its ability to improve skin condition. Our study aimed to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation combining l-cystine and fish collagen peptides [...] Read more.
Collagen is an essential ingredient in dietary supplements for its anti-ageing benefits, and l-cystine-based supplementation has garnered interest for its ability to improve skin condition. Our study aimed to evaluate the effects of oral supplementation combining l-cystine and fish collagen peptides at two different dosages on mature (55–65 years) and young (18–30 years) skin types. Two randomised, three-arm, double-blind, placebo-controlled trials were conducted. A total of 198 Asian women were allocated into equal groups (5.5 or 11 g of active supplement or placebo daily for 12 weeks). In the Young panel, global aesthetic improvement, cutaneous pigmentation homogeneity, texture, redness, acne scars, and UV sensitivity were investigated. In the Mature panel, complexion radiance, crow’s feet, cutaneous thickness, moisturising, pigmentation homogeneity, texture, and skin colour were investigated. In mature women, the most notable improvements after 12 weeks were hydration, cutaneous thickness, and wrinkles. In younger women, improvements in cutaneous texture, reduced skin redness, and increased UV photoprotection were the most notable effects. Oral administration of the dietary supplement containing l-cystine and collagen peptides was perfectly well tolerated. In addition to the already known benefits for mature skin, this supplementation could also benefit younger people with skin imperfections. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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18 pages, 4382 KB  
Review
Cydonia oblonga: A Comprehensive Overview of Applications in Dermatology and Cosmetics
by Ana Adamovic, Marina Tomovic, Marijana Andjic, Jovana Dimitrijevic, Miona Glisic and Miljan Adamovic
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 187; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050187 - 28 Aug 2025
Viewed by 536
Abstract
This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the botany, phytochemical composition, and dermatological effects of Cydonia oblonga (CO), with a particular focus on its therapeutic mechanisms across various skin conditions. Among the different parts of the plant, the fruit and peel [...] Read more.
This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the botany, phytochemical composition, and dermatological effects of Cydonia oblonga (CO), with a particular focus on its therapeutic mechanisms across various skin conditions. Among the different parts of the plant, the fruit and peel are especially rich in bioactive compounds, primarily polyphenols such as phenolic acids, anthocyanins, and flavonoids, which are known for their potent antioxidant activity. These constituents contribute significantly to the fruit and peel’s health-promoting properties. To date, multiple extracts derived from various CO parts have been studied in both in vitro and in vivo models. Reported dermatological effects include antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, UV-protective, moisturizing, and anti-aging effects, as well as beneficial outcomes in conditions such as wound healing, erythema, and hyperpigmentation. As a result, formulations containing CO-derived compounds have been developed for use in both diseased and healthy skin care. However, only a limited number of these effects have been validated in human clinical studies. Given the promising results from preclinical research, future directions should prioritize in vivo investigations in human subjects to determine optimal concentrations and delivery systems for targeting specific skin disorders. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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16 pages, 2970 KB  
Article
A 28-Day Pilot Study of the Effects on Facial Skin Hydration, Elasticity, and Texture of a Centella asiatica Extracellular Vesicle-Based Skin Care Formulation
by Tsong-Min Chang, Chung-Chin Wu, Huey-Chun Huang, Ji-Ying Lu, Ching-Hua Chuang, Pei-Lun Kao, Wei-Hsuan Tang, Luke Tzu-Chi Liu, Wei-Yin Qiu, Ivona Percec, Charles Chen and Tsun-Yung Kuo
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 186; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050186 - 28 Aug 2025
Viewed by 1347
Abstract
Extracellular vesicles (EVs) from the traditional medicinal herb Centella asiatica (Cica) represent a novel category of botanical actives with potential dermatological benefits, yet their clinical effects in cosmetic applications remain unexplored. This pilot study assessed the effects of a skincare serum formulation with [...] Read more.
Extracellular vesicles (EVs) from the traditional medicinal herb Centella asiatica (Cica) represent a novel category of botanical actives with potential dermatological benefits, yet their clinical effects in cosmetic applications remain unexplored. This pilot study assessed the effects of a skincare serum formulation with Cica EVs as the main active ingredient on facial skin quality in healthy participants. Twenty healthy participants (4 males and 16 females; average age 36.5) were enrolled and asked to apply the formulation twice daily for 28 days. Parameters, including skin hydration, elasticity, melanin content, wrinkles, redness, and pore size, were evaluated using instrumental probes and an imaging system. Facial skin quality assessments were conducted before use and at 7, 14, 21, and 28 days of product application. After 28 days of test product treatment, significant improvements were observed in measured parameters. A post-hoc placebo group of 10 participants received an identical serum without the EVs and underwent the same assessments. The EV-treated group showed statistically significant improvements in all skin parameters (p < 0.001), whereas the placebo group showed no significant changes. These findings have shown the use of a Cica EV-based skincare product in improving skin quality. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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30 pages, 6589 KB  
Article
Characterization of Commercial Eye Shadows with Emphasis on Heavy Metal Exposure Risks to Human Health
by Rosa L. Alvarez-Gonzales, Elizabeth E. Yufra-Illanes, José A. Villanueva-Salas, Celia Choquenaira-Quispe, Angélica Corzo-Salas-De-Valdivia, Federico M. Malpartida-Quispe and Elvis G. Gonzales-Condori
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 185; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050185 - 27 Aug 2025
Viewed by 666
Abstract
Eye shadows are cosmetic products widely used to enhance appearance. However, the use of raw materials contaminated with heavy metals poses potential health hazards. This study characterized 12 commercial eye shadow samples and quantified concentrations of Al, Ba, B, Cu, Cr, Fe, Mn, [...] Read more.
Eye shadows are cosmetic products widely used to enhance appearance. However, the use of raw materials contaminated with heavy metals poses potential health hazards. This study characterized 12 commercial eye shadow samples and quantified concentrations of Al, Ba, B, Cu, Cr, Fe, Mn, Ni, Pb, V, and Zn using inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). Additional characterization using UV-vis, ATR-FTIR, and SEM-EDS techniques provided insights into the composition and potential sources of contamination. Multivariate analysis revealed differences in metal concentrations across brands. Health risk assessments, including margin of safety (MoS), hazard quotient (HQ), hazard index (HI), lifetime cancer risk (LCR), and lifetime cancer risk based on the long-term relevant daily systemic exposure dose (LCR′), indicated that one product may pose significant health risks. Specifically, sample M4 showed an HI of 2.67 × 101, exceeding acceptable limits. These findings highlight the need for stricter regulation and continuous monitoring of heavy metals in cosmetics to safeguard consumer health. Full article
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24 pages, 2317 KB  
Article
Improved Tactile Receptivity and Skin Beauty Benefits Through Topical Treatment with a Hyacinthus orientalis Bulb Extract Shown to Activate Oxytocin Receptor Signaling
by Fabien Havas, Shlomo Krispin, Moshe Cohen and Joan Attia-Vigneau
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 184; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050184 - 26 Aug 2025
Viewed by 637
Abstract
The neuropeptide oxytocin (OXT) is involved in social bonding, reproduction, and childbirth. Its activity is mediated by the oxytocin receptor (OXTR), also expressed in the skin. OXT alleviates dermal fibroblast senescence, and OXT levels correlate with visible skin aging. OXT inhibits nociceptive signaling [...] Read more.
The neuropeptide oxytocin (OXT) is involved in social bonding, reproduction, and childbirth. Its activity is mediated by the oxytocin receptor (OXTR), also expressed in the skin. OXT alleviates dermal fibroblast senescence, and OXT levels correlate with visible skin aging. OXT inhibits nociceptive signaling and promotes neuronal plasticity. Here, we demonstrate OXT-like benefits of OXTR activation for skin touch sensoriality and nociception, as well as visible skin health and beauty indicators, using an aqueous extract of Hyacinthus orientalis bulbs. OXTR activation was evaluated in a Chinese hamster ovary (CHO) cell model. Nociception and innervation benefits were investigated in keratinocyte/sensory neuron coculture models. A placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated gentle touch receptivity, nociception, skin tone, elasticity, and wrinkling. The extract activated OXTR and enhanced dermal fibroblast proliferation in vitro. In the keratinocyte-neuron coculture, the HO extract lowered nociceptive CGRP release below that of the unstimulated and OXT controls and promoted neuronal survival and dendricity. An organ-on-a-chip coculture showed decreased electrical activity and increased neuronal peripherin. Clinically, we observed selective left-side frontal alpha-wave activation, indicating pleasant sensation, reduced nociception, enhanced skin glow, improved elasticity, and reduced wrinkling. This extract thus shows high value for holistic wellbeing solutions, enhancing the skin’s receptivity to pleasant sensations and promoting well-aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
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25 pages, 4568 KB  
Review
Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration
by Vladimir Y. Zaitsev, Yulia M. Alexandrovskaya, Alexander A. Sovetsky, Ekaterina M. Kasianenko, Alexander L. Matveyev, Dmitry V. Shabanov and Maxim E. Darvin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 183; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183 - 26 Aug 2025
Viewed by 717
Abstract
Non-invasive, in vivo assessment of target substances penetration into the skin remains a significant challenge in dermatology and cosmetology. While various optical methods have been employed for this purpose, each has inherent limitations. Here, we present a novel non-invasive imaging approach using optical [...] Read more.
Non-invasive, in vivo assessment of target substances penetration into the skin remains a significant challenge in dermatology and cosmetology. While various optical methods have been employed for this purpose, each has inherent limitations. Here, we present a novel non-invasive imaging approach using optical coherence elastography (OCE) to simultaneously determine the penetration depth of topically applied osmotically active substances in biological objects and associated water content changes with high sensitivity. Most substances are osmotically active and generate osmotic pressure proportional to their concentration, inducing deformations in biological objects. These osmotic strains can be visualized similarly to mechanical or thermal strains. Using OCE, we evaluated penetration and dehydration depth profiles in polyacrylamide gel phantoms, ex vivo cartilage, and porcine ear skin samples treated with aqueous glycerol solutions of varying concentrations. Additionally, the penetration and effect of jojoba oil were assessed in treated skin samples. The results are consistent with those obtained by other established methods, confirming the reliability and applicability of OCE. This technique offers unique capabilities not achievable with other optical methods, making it a valuable complementary tool for non-invasive studies. It holds significant promise for advancing both research and clinical applications in dermatology and cosmetology, including its potential translation to in vivo assessments. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
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28 pages, 2736 KB  
Review
Jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) Peel Extracts in Dermocosmetics: A Systematic Review Highlighting Antioxidant and Photoprotective Research Gaps
by Jovane Santana Silva, Clayton Pereira de Sá, Márcio Gonçalves dos Santos, Catarina Rosado, Fábia Rafaella Silva Alves, André Rolim Baby and Yohandra Reyes Torres
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 182; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050182 - 26 Aug 2025
Viewed by 818
Abstract
This paper presents a literature review on the potential of jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) peel extracts for application in multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations, particularly as natural antioxidants and photoprotective agents. Utilizing the Methodi Ordinatio methodology, of a total of 1226, 90 scientific articles [...] Read more.
This paper presents a literature review on the potential of jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) peel extracts for application in multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations, particularly as natural antioxidants and photoprotective agents. Utilizing the Methodi Ordinatio methodology, of a total of 1226, 90 scientific articles were selected from six major databases and analyzed through bibliometric mapping (VOSviewer) and qualitative data processing (MAXQDA). The results highlight research concentration in three key areas: (1) extraction methodologies for bioactive compounds, (2) identification and quantification techniques, and (3) biological activities (antioxidant and photoprotective effects). The most frequent compounds reported were anthocyanins (cyanidin-3-glucoside and delphinidin-3-glucoside), quercetin-derived flavonoids (rutin and myricetin), and phenolic acids (ellagic, gallic, and ferulic acids), which exhibit synergistic effects with conventional UV filters. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using ethanol and emerging green solvents, like glycerol and deep eutectic solvents (DESs), was identified as an effective, sustainable alternative. Despite increasing evidence supporting the dermocosmetic potential of jaboticaba peel, studies remain scarce, with only one identified investigation using it in a topical formulation. This review provides a structured scientific foundation to encourage research aimed at developing multifunctional, eco-friendly, plant-based cosmetics aligned with the principles of the circular economy. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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15 pages, 1809 KB  
Article
Effects of ε-Viniferin and ε-Viniferin-Enriched Extract from Vitis labruscana B. ‘Campbell Early’ Cell Cultures on Wound Healing and Epidermal Barrier Restoration in Human Skin Cells
by Daeun Kim, Jimin Lim, Kyuri Lee, Gisol Kim, Jaeho Pyee, Minkyoung You and Jaesung Hwang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050181 - 25 Aug 2025
Viewed by 834
Abstract
Skin wound healing and barrier restoration are complex, tightly regulated processes critical for maintaining skin integrity, particularly in aged or compromised skin. This study investigated the wound healing efficacy and epidermal barrier-restoring effects of ε-Viniferin, a bioactive resveratrol dimer, and Vino Chocolate™, a [...] Read more.
Skin wound healing and barrier restoration are complex, tightly regulated processes critical for maintaining skin integrity, particularly in aged or compromised skin. This study investigated the wound healing efficacy and epidermal barrier-restoring effects of ε-Viniferin, a bioactive resveratrol dimer, and Vino Chocolate™, a grape flower-derived extract from Vitis labruscana ‘Campbell Early’ cell cultures enriched with ε-Viniferin. An HPLC analysis confirmed a high concentration of ε-Viniferin (547.58 ppm) in the cell culture-derived extract. In vitro assays conducted on HaCaT keratinocytes and HDFn fibroblasts demonstrated that the treatment with ε-Viniferin and Vino Chocolate™ significantly enhanced fibroblast migration. ELISA analyses showed that both treatments induced a dose-dependent increase in pro-collagen type I (COL1A1), with ε-Viniferin at 1 ppm demonstrating superior efficacy compared to TGF-β1. Additionally, these compounds notably suppressed the expression of matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1 and MMP-3, displaying effects comparable to or greater than retinoic acid. The Western blot analysis further revealed an increased filaggrin expression in keratinocytes, suggesting an improved epidermal barrier function. Collectively, these results indicate that ε-Viniferin and Vino Chocolate™ effectively promote extracellular matrix remodeling, modulate inflammatory responses, and enhance epidermal barrier integrity. These findings highlight their potential as multifunctional bioactive agents for cosmeceutical applications and emphasize the advantages of plant cell culture technology as a sustainable, innovative platform for advanced skincare ingredient development. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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24 pages, 1271 KB  
Article
Unlocking Pomegranate’s Potential: Ultrasonication-Enriched Oil in Nanobeads for Innovative Cosmetic Hydrogels
by Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Iness Bettaieb Rebey, Rym Essid, Majdi Hammami, Hamza Gadhoumi, Raghda Yazidi, Emna Chaabani, Saber Khammessi, Salma Nait Mohamed, Walid Yeddes and Moufida Saidani-Tounsi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 180; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050180 - 25 Aug 2025
Viewed by 845
Abstract
Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), is renowned for its bioactive compounds, offering significant potential in cosmetic applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. This study presents a sustainably sourced cosmetic ingredient developed by enriching pomegranate seed oil with peel powder using [...] Read more.
Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), is renowned for its bioactive compounds, offering significant potential in cosmetic applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. This study presents a sustainably sourced cosmetic ingredient developed by enriching pomegranate seed oil with peel powder using optimized ultrasonication, followed by encapsulation in alginate nanobeads and integration into a minimalist hydrogel formulation. A Box–Behnken experimental design was employed to optimize ultrasonication parameters (15 min, 90% power, 202 mg/mL powder-to-oil ratio), yielding an enriched PSO with significantly enhanced total phenolic content (TPC: 69.23 ± 1.66 mg GAE/g), total flavonoid content (TFC: 61.09 ± 1.66 mg QE/g), and robust DPPH antioxidant activity (78.63 ± 3.81%). The enriched oil exhibited enhanced oxidative stability (peroxide value: 5.75 ± 0.30 meq O2/kg vs. 50.95 ± 0.07 meq O2/kg for neutral oil), improved fatty acid profile, and significant anti-inflammatory (IC50 = 897.25 µg/mL for NO inhibition) and antibacterial activities. Alginate nanobeads (432.46 ± 12.59 nm, zeta potential: −30.74 ± 3.20 mV) ensured bioactivity preservation, while the hydrogel maintained physicochemical and microbial stability over 60 days under accelerated conditions (40 ± 2 °C, 75 ± 5% RH). This multifunctional formulation, integrating sustainable extraction, advanced encapsulation, and a minimalist delivery system, represents a highly promising natural ingredient for anti-aging and antioxidant cosmetic applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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24 pages, 1034 KB  
Review
Neurocosmetics and Aromatherapy Through Neurocutaneous Receptors and Their Functional Implications in Cosmetics
by María Judith Sánchez-Peña, Odessa Magallón-Chávez and Juan Antonio Rivas-Loaiza
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 179; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050179 - 25 Aug 2025
Viewed by 1291
Abstract
There is little scientific evidence for many of the medical benefits attributed to aromatherapy and neurocosmetics; however, they have been shown to be useful in the management of symptoms such as pain, nausea, general well-being, anxiety, depression, stress, and insomnia through various mechanisms, [...] Read more.
There is little scientific evidence for many of the medical benefits attributed to aromatherapy and neurocosmetics; however, they have been shown to be useful in the management of symptoms such as pain, nausea, general well-being, anxiety, depression, stress, and insomnia through various mechanisms, including the olfactory pathway and activation of TRPV and CBD receptors. This review therefore aims to compile the most relevant literature on active ingredients proven effective in neurocosmetics and aromatherapy, as well as the mechanisms responsible for their function, in order to highlight how they can be synergistically integrated into a new generation of multifunctional formulations forming the basis of neuro-functional skin care. Full article
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11 pages, 986 KB  
Article
Effect of SMART DNA Therapy Retix.C Application on Skin Microbiome
by Dorota Sobolewska-Sztychny, Karolina Wódz and Aleksandra Lesiak
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 178; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050178 - 22 Aug 2025
Viewed by 632
Abstract
Background: The skin microbiome plays a key role in maintaining skin health, and its composition can be influenced by cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate the effects of SMART DNA Therapy treatment on facial skin microbiome composition, with specific focus on changes [...] Read more.
Background: The skin microbiome plays a key role in maintaining skin health, and its composition can be influenced by cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate the effects of SMART DNA Therapy treatment on facial skin microbiome composition, with specific focus on changes in commensal and pathogenic bacterial populations following multi-component anti-aging intervention. Methods: This clinical study included 10 Caucasian female participants aged 28–50 years (Clinical trial registration number: 0406/2023). Each participant received three Retix.C SMART DNA THERAPY treatments at 14-day intervals over 6 weeks. The protocol included three phases: chemical peeling with ferulic acid, peptide microinjections for DNA repair, and home-care products with antioxidants. Bacterial samples were collected from forehead and cheek skin before treatment and 2 weeks after the final treatment. Samples were analyzed using bacterial culture and PCR methods. Results: After treatment, the skin microbiome showed beneficial changes with increased numbers of helpful bacteria and elimination of harmful bacteria: complete removal of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus was observed, Staphylococcus epidermidis and other beneficial bacteria increased on both forehead and cheek areas. Overall bacterial diversity decreased, and participants exhibited more similar microbiome patterns after treatment. Conclusions: SMART DNA Therapy treatment successfully modified the skin microbiome by increasing protective bacteria and eliminating pathogenic species. The treatment may support skin health through microbiome modulation and the potential antioxidant effects of its active ingredients, although these were not directly assessed in this study. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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