Next Issue
Volume 13, August
Previous Issue
Volume 13, April
 
 
Search for Articles:
Title / Keyword
Author / Affiliation / Email
Journal
Article Type
 
 
Advanced Search
 
Section
Special Issue
Volume
Issue
Number
Page
 
6.0
4.1
Journals
Cosmetics
Volume 13
Issue 3
share announcement

Cosmetics, Volume 13, Issue 3 (June 2026) – 61 articles

Cover Story (view full-size image): This review explores neurocosmetics as an emerging field at the intersection of dermatology, neuroscience, and mental health. Framed through the skin–brain axis, it examines how cutaneous sensory, immune, and neuroendocrine pathways may link topical formulations, texture, temperature, and olfactory cues to perceived stress, comfort, body image, and emotional well-being. While neurocosmetic strategies may support self-perception and quality of life, the article emphasizes that these effects are indirect, context-dependent, and should not be confused with treatment of psychiatric disorders. It also calls for rigorous, ethically grounded research combining dermatological endpoints, validated psychological measures, biological markers, and careful control of expectancy effects. View this paper
  • Issues are regarded as officially published after their release is announced to the table of contents alert mailing list.
  • You may sign up for e-mail alerts to receive table of contents of newly released issues.
  • PDF is the official format for papers published in both, html and pdf forms. To view the papers in pdf format, click on the "PDF Full-text" link, and use the free Adobe Reader to open them.
Order results
Result details
Section
Show export options expand_more Show export options expand_less
Select all
Export citation of selected articles as:
13 pages, 1304 KB  
Article
Anti-Particulate Adhesion Efficacy of a Cosmetic Product: A Controlled In Vivo Study Using a Patented Exposure Chamber
by Youngrin Kwag, Huijeong Jeong, Yoori Kang, Min Sook Jung, Wonkyu Hong and Hongseok Kim
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 160; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030160 - 19 Jun 2026
Viewed by 386
Abstract
This study validated a controlled in vivo test protocol using a patented particulate exposure chamber (Korean Patent No. 10-2020-0068941) to evaluate the anti-particulate adhesion efficacy of a cosmetic sunscreen formulation (SPF 50+, PA++++). The primary aim was methodological—to demonstrate that the chamber system [...] Read more.
This study validated a controlled in vivo test protocol using a patented particulate exposure chamber (Korean Patent No. 10-2020-0068941) to evaluate the anti-particulate adhesion efficacy of a cosmetic sunscreen formulation (SPF 50+, PA++++). The primary aim was methodological—to demonstrate that the chamber system can reliably detect differences in carbon black adhesion under standardised conditions. A split-site paired design was applied to 22 healthy adult females (mean age 60.3 ± 5.2 years; range 46–68 years). Carbon black particles (≤10 μm) were dispersed via a precision dual-stage pneumatic nozzle within a sealed chamber (22 ± 2 °C; 50 ± 5% RH). Between-group comparison was assessed by the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (primary) and the generalised estimating equation (GEE) model (complementary between-group comparison per institutional SOP). The treated site showed a 55.0% reduction in carbon black adhesion (treated: 4243 ± 2225 pixels; control: 9430 ± 4769 pixels, SE = 4.82, 95% CI: −64.4 to −45.6, Wald Z = −11.41, p < 0.001; Cohen’s d = 2.43). The Wilcoxon test confirmed the result independently (Z = −4.11, p < 0.001). All 22 subjects (100%) showed consistent reduction directionality (individual rates: 22.6–74.2%; mean 51.8%; median 52.3%). Bootstrap resampling (n = 10,000), outlier-exclusion, and exact sign test sensitivity analyses all confirmed robustness. These findings represent proof-of-concept methodological validation applied to a single product under accelerated exposure conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Non-Invasive Diagnostics: New Advance in Cosmetology and Aesthetic Medicine)
►▼ Show Figures

Graphical abstract

15 pages, 1450 KB  
Article
Comparative Effect of Soft, Hard and Chlorinated Water on Atopic Skin and Clinical Benefits of a Dermocosmetic Routine
by Sandrine Bergera Virassamnaik, Helena Polena, Noëlle Remoué, Benoît Cadars, Elodie Prestat-Marquis and Elodie Valin
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 159; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030159 - 19 Jun 2026
Viewed by 526
Abstract
Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether [...] Read more.
Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether a dermocosmetic routine mitigates these effects. Methods: In a 3-day, open-label, intra-individual study, 66 adults with atopic skin underwent repeated forearm immersions (five cycles/day) in soft, hard, or chlorinated water. One forearm received a cleansing-oil and moisturising-balm routine after each cycle; the contralateral forearm served as untreated control. TEWL, hydration, and global discomfort were assessed. In a 21-day real-life study, adults with AD regularly exposed to hard domestic or swimming-pool water used the routine daily. Discomfort and quality of life were recorded. Results: Water immersion induced modest, inconsistent TEWL changes, increased hydration and slightly reduced discomfort, without differences between water types. The routine reduced TEWL, increased hydration, and decreased discomfort for all water types. In real life, it produced immediate and sustained improvements in discomfort and quality of life. Conclusions: Under controlled exposure, soft, hard, and chlorinated water exert comparable, limited effects on atopic skin. The dermocosmetic routine consistently improves barrier-related parameters and comfort, independently of water type. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

21 pages, 2409 KB  
Article
Cosmetic Anti-Aging Potential of the Traditional Thai Longevity Formula Mai-Kae-Den-Klong: Mechanistic Insights from Enzyme-Based Bioassays and In Silico Analysis
by Theeraphan Chumroenphat, Nattapong Wongchum, Surapon Saensouk, Kusawadee Plekratoke, Panupong Mahalapbutr, Khin Soe Win, Saran Chaweerak, Subramani Paranthaman Balasubramani and Ananya Dechakhamphu
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 158; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030158 - 18 Jun 2026
Viewed by 538
Abstract
Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a [...] Read more.
Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a traditional Thai longevity herbal formula composed of Albizia procera (Roxb.) Benth., Cyperus rotundus L., Diospyros rhodocalyx Kurz, Piper nigrum L., Streblus asper Lour., and Tinospora crispa (L.) Hook.f. & Thomson, has historically been used to promote vitality and healthy aging; however, its potential application as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient remains scientifically unexplored. Therefore, this study investigated the anti-aging potential of MKDK extract using integrated enzyme-based bioassays and in silico approaches. Phytochemical profiling of the ethanolic extract was performed using LC-MS analysis, revealing diverse bioactive constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic glycosides, alkaloids, and terpenoids, with (−)-epicatechin, procyanidin B1, and piperine identified as major metabolites. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays, while inhibitory activities against tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were assessed to determine skin anti-aging potential. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with IC50 values of 17.23 ± 2.11 µg/mL for DPPH and 11.87 ± 1.77 µg/mL for ABTS assays. In addition, the extract demonstrated inhibitory effects against tyrosinase (IC50 = 41.25 ± 1.56 µg/mL), elastase (IC50 = 49.51 ± 3.69 µg/mL), collagenase (IC50 = 61.54 ± 2.88 µg/mL), and hyaluronidase (IC50 = 63.74 ± 6.32 µg/mL), suggesting multifunctional anti-aging properties associated with skin brightening and extracellular matrix preservation. Network pharmacology analysis predicted multiple aging-related signaling pathways, particularly the FoxO signaling pathway, which is associated with oxidative stress regulation and longevity. Molecular docking analysis further demonstrated favorable binding affinities of procyanidin B1, epicatechin, and piperine toward skin-aging-related enzymes, supporting their potential contribution to the observed bioactivities. Overall, these findings suggest that MKDK possesses promising cosmeceutical potential as a natural multifunctional anti-aging ingredient and provides scientific support for the application of traditional Thai herbal formulations in cosmetic and skin health products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Graphical abstract

17 pages, 7596 KB  
Review
From Collagen Colour to Collagen Biology: An Integrated Framework for Dermal Remodelling Assessment
by Francesco Marchetti, Matteo Basso, Giuseppe Colombo, Dissapong Panithaporn and Maurizio Cavallini
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 157; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030157 - 18 Jun 2026
Viewed by 628
Abstract
Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological [...] Read more.
Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological endpoint. Picrosirius red (PSR) staining under polarised light remains the most frequently used method for visualising collagen architecture; however, its birefringence colour patterns are often misinterpreted as proxies for collagen subtype shifts, particularly between types I and III. This conceptual review examines the methodological basis of such interpretations. We summarise the biological roles of major dermal collagens and compare current histochemical, immunohistochemical, ultrastructural and molecular methods for collagen assessment. We propose an interpretative framework that separates architectural collagen remodelling from molecular collagen synthesis and addresses the temporal dissociation between early fibre reorganisation and later subtype-specific expression as a plausible explanation for between-study discrepancies. Practical guidance is provided to support responsible interpretation and reporting of PSR-based collagen analyses. PSR is best regarded as a complementary tool for assessing collagen architecture rather than a definitive method for collagen subtype identification. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

16 pages, 18858 KB  
Article
Direct Contact with CaHA Microspheres Drives ECM Stimulation In Vitro
by Yoana Dimitrova, Cleiton Kunzler, Kristina Riegel, Daniela Schäfer, Christina Wollenburg, Thomas Hengl and Christian Hartmann
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030156 - 18 Jun 2026
Viewed by 992
Abstract
Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression [...] Read more.
Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression of extracellular matrix (ECM) components. To this end, human dermal fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of CaHA microspheres. Cell migration, cell–microsphere interaction, and CaHA dose-dependent effects on the expression of ECM proteins were examined using microscopy, mRNA and protein expression analysis. Our results indicated that fibroblasts established direct and close contact to CaHA microspheres. This interaction was associated with a time- and dose-dependent increase in ECM protein expression, including collagen-1, emilin-1, elastin, fibulin-5, fibronectin, and the proteoglycans—lumican and versican. These observations indicate that direct contact between fibroblasts and CaHA microspheres promotes ECM protein expression, suggesting a role for this interaction in supporting skin regeneration and counteracting age-related changes, potentially augmented in vivo by immunomodulatory effects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

18 pages, 2022 KB  
Review
Donor Site Preservation and Long-Term Management in Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE): A Structured Clinical Framework for Surgical Planning and Complication Prevention
by Abdulaziz Balwi and Tamer Koldas
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030155 - 16 Jun 2026
Viewed by 541
Abstract
Background: Follicular unit extraction (FUE) has become the dominant donor site harvesting technique in modern hair transplantation due to its ability to avoid linear scar formation and its procedural flexibility. However, the donor site is a limited non-regenerative source. Excessive or poorly planned [...] Read more.
Background: Follicular unit extraction (FUE) has become the dominant donor site harvesting technique in modern hair transplantation due to its ability to avoid linear scar formation and its procedural flexibility. However, the donor site is a limited non-regenerative source. Excessive or poorly planned extraction can lead to visible thinning, hypopigmented scarring, and reduced reserve for future procedures. Objective: This study aimed to synthesize current evidence on donor biology, preoperative assessment, extraction strategy, and complication prevention in FUE, and to propose a reproducible clinical framework for donor preservation. Methods: A structured narrative review was conducted using PubMed/MEDLINE, Scopus, and Google Scholar to identify English-language publications related to donor site biology, donor evaluation, extraction density thresholds, complication prevention, repeat session planning, and emerging FUE technologies. Priority was given to recent reviews, clinical trials, consensus statements, and practice-oriented surgical literature. Articles were selected not for formal meta-analytic pooling, but because of their relevance to donor conservation and long-term donor management. Results: The literature reviewed consistently identifies excessive local extraction density, harvesting beyond conservative limits, donor miniaturization, and inadequate reassessment before repeated procedures as the primary drivers of donor morbidity. Evidence from reviews, clinical trials, and expert guidelines supports conservative extraction thresholds, widespread spatial distribution, individualized donor mapping, and phased long-term planning as key strategies for preserving donor aesthetics and reserve. Conclusions: Donor preservation is central to ethical and sustainable FUE surgery. Integration of biologically informed assessment, disciplined extraction control, and mandatory reassessment protocols can reduce morbidity while preserving long-term graft flexibility in patients with progressive androgenetic alopecia. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

27 pages, 2865 KB  
Article
Wild Olea europaea Leaves as an Alternative Source of Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Compounds to Cultivated Olive Tree Leaves for Cosmetic Ingredients
by Elise Le Roux, Mateja Senicar, Emmanuelle Villedieu-Percheron, Cyril Colas, Mialy Randriantsoa, Michel Pobeda and Emilie Destandau
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030154 - 15 Jun 2026
Viewed by 372
Abstract
This study assessed the potential of Oleaster leaves as a valuable cosmetic ingredient by comparing aqueous and hydroalcoholic ultrasound-assisted extracts of Oleaster leaves to those of the Olive tree. The hydroalcoholic Oleaster leaf extract showed a higher content in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, [...] Read more.
This study assessed the potential of Oleaster leaves as a valuable cosmetic ingredient by comparing aqueous and hydroalcoholic ultrasound-assisted extracts of Oleaster leaves to those of the Olive tree. The hydroalcoholic Oleaster leaf extract showed a higher content in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, with an oleuropein and verbascoside content of 58 mg/g of dry leaves and 3.2 mg/g of dry leaves, respectively. To refine the comparison of their molecular composition, the extracts were analyzed using UHPLC-HRMS/MS. About twenty compounds, including secoiridoids, flavonoids and triterpenic acid derivatives, were annotated in both extracts, demonstrating their similarity. DPPH, CUPRAC and enzymatic SOD assays showed a good antioxidant activity with high inhibition (60–90%) for both Oleaster and Olive tree leaf extracts. The hydroalcoholic extracts at 62.5 µg/mL also exhibited 60–80% of protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in H2O2-stressed HaCaT cells, confirming this antioxidant capacity without demonstrating a severe cytotoxicity, which remained below 40%. The anti-inflammatory potential of the extracts was also demonstrated using COX-2 inhibition, which was around 70%, and by measuring the concentration of IL-8 in HaCaT cells under pro-inflammatory conditions, which decreased in the presence of extracts at a concentration of 50 pg/mL, similar to that observed for the positive control. Thus, the hydroalcoholic ultrasound extract of Oleaster leaves demonstrated its high potential to develop sustainable and active cosmetic ingredients. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

17 pages, 5572 KB  
Article
Supramolecular Adenosine–Ectoine Complex for Enhanced Skin Delivery and Anti-Aging Efficacy
by Jiahuan Hu, Yumei Fan, Zirui He, Chunhua Wei, Yu Xie, Shuo Shan, Jinhua Li and Yuan Yuan
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 153; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030153 - 15 Jun 2026
Viewed by 834
Abstract
Skin aging is a central focus of skin health. Supramolecular chemistry has emerged as a powerful strategy for enhancing the performance of cosmetic active ingredients. Adenosine is a promising anti-aging ingredient in skincare products, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor water [...] Read more.
Skin aging is a central focus of skin health. Supramolecular chemistry has emerged as a powerful strategy for enhancing the performance of cosmetic active ingredients. Adenosine is a promising anti-aging ingredient in skincare products, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor water solubility and low skin penetration. This study developed a supramolecular complex combining adenosine with ectoine through cocrystallization. The supramolecular assembly was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and density functional theory (DFT) calculations revealed extensive hydrogen-bonding networks between the components. The optimal supramolecular composition (1:1.5 molar ratio) achieved a 5.5-fold increase in water solubility. The supramolecular organization enhanced skin permeability by 3.1-fold in ex vivo porcine skin models. In fibroblast cell models, the supramolecular system exhibited superior antioxidant activity with 30.3% greater reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and restored cellular adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels by 2.1-fold under H2O2-induced oxidative stress compared to individual components. These findings demonstrate that the adenosine–ectoine supramolecular complex represents an innovative multifunctional ingredient for basic anti-aging cosmetics, offering enhanced delivery, improved safety, and superior biological efficacy through supramolecular engineering. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

19 pages, 3911 KB  
Article
Oral N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Promotes Spot Brightening and Enhances Hydration and Elasticity: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial
by Zicun Lin, Min Xiao, Na Li, Libin Tu, Hao Shi, Menghui Li, Lixia Yuan and Xiangyu Li
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 152; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030152 - 12 Jun 2026
Viewed by 631
Abstract
Background: N-Acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac), the predominant form of sialic acid, exhibits potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycation properties in preclinical studies, suggesting potential dermatological benefits. However, robust clinical evidence supporting the efficacy of oral Neu5Ac supplementation on human skin conditions remains lacking. Methods: A [...] Read more.
Background: N-Acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac), the predominant form of sialic acid, exhibits potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycation properties in preclinical studies, suggesting potential dermatological benefits. However, robust clinical evidence supporting the efficacy of oral Neu5Ac supplementation on human skin conditions remains lacking. Methods: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial was conducted with 55 Chinese women (40–65 years) who received 120 mg/day Neu5Ac (n = 27) or a matching placebo (n = 28) for 84 days. Skin pigmentation, hydration, biomechanical properties, and dermis echogenicity were evaluated at baseline, D28, D56, and D84 using standardized clinical and instrumental assessments. Results: Both clinical (Pantone color card) and instrumental (photographic) assessments showed that oral Neu5Ac supplementation significantly improved skin lightness on both pigmentary spots and surrounding normal skin compared with placebo at day 84. In addition, stratum corneum hydration and skin biologic extensibility were significantly increased in the Neu5Ac group. Dermal echogenicity showed numerical improvement but did not reach statistical significance. Self-assessment indicated that 100% of the Neu5Ac participants reported improvements in skin whiteness, radiance, elasticity, firmness, and hydration, with mean satisfaction scores of 9.1/10 versus 7.9/10 for placebo. Conclusions: Daily oral supplementation with 120 mg Neu5Ac for 84 days significantly promoted localized spot brightening, enhanced skin hydration, and improved skin elasticity, providing the first clinical evidence supporting Neu5Ac as a safe and effective oral cosmetic ingredient for skin anti-aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

24 pages, 2266 KB  
Review
Hurdles in Melasma Management: An AI-Assisted Review of Placebo- and Hydroquinone-Controlled Clinical Studies (2014–2024)
by Alexandra M. Maldonado López and Ivan Domicio da Silva Souza
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030151 - 12 Jun 2026
Viewed by 930
Abstract
Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation disorder that significantly impacts quality of life. Given the persistent challenges in melasma management, there is a need to evaluate therapies that may offer long-term treatment. This descriptive review analyzes interventional clinical studies involving melasma patients and placebo [...] Read more.
Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation disorder that significantly impacts quality of life. Given the persistent challenges in melasma management, there is a need to evaluate therapies that may offer long-term treatment. This descriptive review analyzes interventional clinical studies involving melasma patients and placebo or hydroquinone (HQ) comparators published between 2014 and 2024. Two human authors screened studies and extracted data, with artificial intelligence used as a human-supervised support tool for screening assistance, data extraction, and discussion synthesis. Study limitations were evaluated descriptively. Treatments were grouped into five categories: HQ-based Standard Treatments, Isolated Molecules as Depigmenting Therapies, Botanical and Antioxidant-Based Therapies, Regenerative and Microenvironment-Modulating Therapies, and Procedure-Assisted and Combination Treatments. HQ remained a key benchmark, although recurrence and tolerability limitations were frequently observed. Several non-HQ or adjunctive approaches demonstrated benefit when administered orally, topically, intradermally, or via iontophoresis. Botanical antioxidants, synbiotics, epidermal growth factor, and platelet-rich plasma also showed promising efficacy. Nevertheless, the evidence base was constrained by small sample sizes, heterogeneous comparators, inconsistent endpoints, mixed objective and subjective assessments, and variable follow-up durations, which prevented meta-analysis. Research on melasma treatment is growing worldwide, with several promising non-HQ and adjunctive strategies emerging. However, standardization of outcomes, comparator selection, and longer follow-up periods is needed to clarify efficacy, tolerability, and relapse prevention throughout diverse skin tones. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

13 pages, 1987 KB  
Article
Development of a Novel VDR-Activating Peptide as a Functional Cosmetic Ingredient for Skin Barrier Health and Photoprotection
by Min-Seo Kim and Jang-Hee Hahn
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 150; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030150 - 11 Jun 2026
Viewed by 436
Abstract
The vitamin D receptor (VDR) plays a pivotal role in maintaining epidermal barrier homeostasis and regulating cutaneous inflammatory responses. However, the cosmetic application of vitamin D and its active metabolites is limited by photoinstability, formulation challenges, and regulatory considerations. In this study, we [...] Read more.
The vitamin D receptor (VDR) plays a pivotal role in maintaining epidermal barrier homeostasis and regulating cutaneous inflammatory responses. However, the cosmetic application of vitamin D and its active metabolites is limited by photoinstability, formulation challenges, and regulatory considerations. In this study, we evaluated a synthetic VDR-activating peptide (VDR-Pep) as a potential functional cosmetic ingredient capable of modulating VDR-associated signaling pathways in human keratinocytes. In situ proximity ligation assays (PLAs) demonstrated that VDR-Pep enhanced the heterodimerization of VDR and retinoid X receptor (RXR), indicating activation of canonical VDR signaling. Treatment with VDR-Pep significantly increased the expression of S100A3 and key terminal differentiation markers, including filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin, in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, VDR-Pep stimulated intracellular calcium mobilization at levels comparable to or exceeding those induced by 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3. Under UVB-induced stress conditions, the peptide attenuated the expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 (IL-6) and enhanced NRF2-associated transcriptional engagement, as evidenced by increased interaction between NRF2 and RNA polymerase II. Collectively, these findings suggest that VDR-Pep supports epidermal homeostasis through coordinated modulation of VDR/RXR signaling, calcium-mediated differentiation, barrier-related protein expression, inflammatory responses, and antioxidant-associated pathways. The results indicate that VDR-targeting peptides may represent a promising non-hormonal strategy for cosmetic formulations aimed at reinforcing skin barrier function and improving resilience to environmental stress. Future studies should focus on validating these effects in in vivo human skin models, assessing long-term safety and efficacy, and optimizing formulation stability for practical cosmetic applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

17 pages, 3063 KB  
Article
Kraft Nanolignin as a Multifunctional Bio-Based Ingredient in Cosmetic O/W Emulsions: Stability, Sunscreen and Antioxidant Performance
by Nikolaos Bikiaris, Nikoleta Kioleoglou and Nikolaos Nikolaidis
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 149; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030149 - 10 Jun 2026
Viewed by 572
Abstract
In the present work, oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions containing nanolignin (NL) at 0.35, 1, and 2% w/w were developed using a single multifunctional nanoadditive concept, whereby NL simultaneously acts as an antioxidant, rheology modifier, and color/sunscreen booster. Nanolignin was characterized by [...] Read more.
In the present work, oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions containing nanolignin (NL) at 0.35, 1, and 2% w/w were developed using a single multifunctional nanoadditive concept, whereby NL simultaneously acts as an antioxidant, rheology modifier, and color/sunscreen booster. Nanolignin was characterized by FTIR, DLS, and SEM, confirming its chemical structure and nanoscale particle size. The emulsions were evaluated in terms of pH and viscosity stability, rheological behavior, colorimetric CIELAB parameters, DPPH radical scavenging activity, and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). Incorporation of NL led to a slight pH decrease relative to the blank formulation, while maintaining values within the acceptable cosmetic range (pH 4–6), and yielded emulsions with excellent pH and viscosity stability over 28 days of storage. Increasing the NL concentration modified the rheological profile and viscosity, as well as the L*, a*, and b* color coordinates, enabling tunable visual appearance and texture. All formulations exhibited high antioxidant capacity; notably, the NL_1% emulsion displayed higher radical scavenging activity than the NL_2% system, underscoring a non-linear structure–property relationship. SPF values ranged between 14.09 ± 0.875 and 22.29 ± 1.719, demonstrating that nanolignin can enhance photoprotective performance. Overall, this study highlights the potential of nanolignin as a single multifunctional nanoadditive for designing stable, antioxidant, and photoprotective cosmetic O/W emulsions with adjustable rheology and color. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

14 pages, 473 KB  
Review
Squalene from Silphium perfoliatum: A Novel Source with Long-Term Stability and Applicability in Topical Formulations
by Arielle Springer, Claudia Gras and Willi Moor
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030148 - 9 Jun 2026
Viewed by 671
Abstract
Background: Squalene is a key sebum lipid that plays an important role in skin barrier function, suppleness, and antioxidant protection. Age-related or disease-associated reductions in squalene levels—for example, in atopic dermatitis—reduce skin resilience and increase susceptibility to environmental stressors. However, its oxidation [...] Read more.
Background: Squalene is a key sebum lipid that plays an important role in skin barrier function, suppleness, and antioxidant protection. Age-related or disease-associated reductions in squalene levels—for example, in atopic dermatitis—reduce skin resilience and increase susceptibility to environmental stressors. However, its oxidation products can have inflammatory, comedogenic, and pro-aging effects on the skin, which is why adequate stabilization is essential when used in topical formulations. Objective: Therefore, identifying sustainable sources of stable squalene with beneficial skin-care properties is of considerable interest. Methods: This review employed an application-focused literature search and comparative analysis of established and new squalene sources, evaluating chemical composition, manufacturing processes, stability, and biological effects following topical applications based on predefined analytical criteria across peer-reviewed studies. Results: Silphium oil appears to be a promising novel source of highly concentrated, sustainable, and stable squalene with potential skin-conditioning properties at concentrations typically used in cosmetic products (2.1–12.6%) while preliminary formulation tests indicate emulsifiability even at concentrations up to 15%. It contains over 3% squalene, a fatty acid profile with over 66% PUFA, and negligible levels of oxidation byproducts (hexanal < 3 ppm) even after years of storage in various types of packaging. Although independent validation and broader comparative studies are limited, these results reveal new possibilities for the use of previously underutilized plant sources in skin care applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

30 pages, 2184 KB  
Article
Evaluation of Indigenous Clays, Ibomvu and Umcako, as Cosmetic Raw Materials: A Physicochemical, Mineralogical, and Toxicological Assessment
by Nonhlanhla Mhlongo, S’busiso Nkosi, Nokukhanya Thembane and Julian Mthombeni
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 147; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030147 - 8 Jun 2026
Viewed by 374
Abstract
Indigenous clays are widely used for facial skincare in South Africa, yet their suitability for cosmetic incorporation remains poorly characterised, particularly with respect to elemental safety. This study assessed two traditionally applied clays for acne-prone skin (Umcako and Ibomvu) using a multi-analytical workflow [...] Read more.
Indigenous clays are widely used for facial skincare in South Africa, yet their suitability for cosmetic incorporation remains poorly characterised, particularly with respect to elemental safety. This study assessed two traditionally applied clays for acne-prone skin (Umcako and Ibomvu) using a multi-analytical workflow encompassing colorimetry, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), pH measurement, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) estimation, X-ray fluorescence (XRF), and inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) of clay leachates. XRD showed both materials to be kaolinite-dominated, with higher kaolinite content in Umcako (92.5 wt%) than in Ibomvu (77.3 wt%); SEM revealed characteristic overlapping pseudo-hexagonal platelets, and FT-IR did not indicate prominent organic functional groups under the conditions tested. The clays were mildly acidic (pH 4.23–4.48), aligning with physiological skin pH, but exhibited low photoprotective performance when assessed alone (SPF ≈ 2.5–2.6). Elemental screening identified nutritionally relevant trace minerals but also detected regulated or sensitising metals, with Ibomvu showing elevated bulk Pb (53 ± 12 ppm), Ni (126 ± 71 ppm) and Zn (72 ± 26 ppm), while Umcako contained elevated bulk Cr (460 ± 140 ppm) and Pb (18 ± 6 ppm). Overall, although Umcako and Ibomvu display physicochemical properties compatible with clay-based cosmetic products, their heavy metal burden, together with the potential for dermal exposure highlighted by leachate analysis, indicates that purification, batch-to-batch monitoring and regulatory risk assessment are essential before safe cosmetic use. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

13 pages, 10883 KB  
Communication
An Open-Label Pilot Study Exploring Skin Quality Changes and Safety of a Day-and-Night Facial Serum Combination Containing L-Ascorbic Acid, Proteoglycans, Hyaluronic Acid, Vigna aconitifolia Extract, and Melatonin
by Rungsima Wanitphakdeedecha, Noldtawat Viriyaskultorn, Stephanie De Leon, Thrit Hutachoke, Thanyaporn Leesanguankul, Panyapat Buranaporn and Teerapat Wannawittayapa
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 146; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030146 - 5 Jun 2026
Viewed by 625
Abstract
Background: A novel day–night facial serum regimen combining antioxidants, hydration-enhancing agents, and bioactive compounds has been developed to address skin aging. Objective: The aim is to explore changes in skin aging parameters and assess the safety and tolerability of a day-and-night [...] Read more.
Background: A novel day–night facial serum regimen combining antioxidants, hydration-enhancing agents, and bioactive compounds has been developed to address skin aging. Objective: The aim is to explore changes in skin aging parameters and assess the safety and tolerability of a day-and-night facial serum combination. Methods: In this single-arm, non-randomized, prospective, open-label study, 30 participants aged 35–55 years applied a day facial serum (DFS) and a night facial serum (NFS) for 8 weeks. Objective assessments included skin texture and depression (Antera 3D®), elasticity and firmness (Cutometer®), hydration (Corneometer®), TEWL (Tewameter®), melanin index (Mexameter®), and brightness (Colorimeter®). Evaluations were performed at baseline, at 1 month and 2 months after treatment start, and at 1 month post-treatment. Results: Thirty participants (Fitzpatrick III–IV) completed the study. Significant improvements in skin texture (p = 0.002) and reduction in skin depression (−22.7%, p < 0.001) were observed after 2 months. Skin firmness increased significantly at 1 month (p < 0.001) and remained elevated post-treatment (p = 0.008). The melanin index decreased at 1 month (p = 0.048), while hydration declined after discontinuation (p = 0.016). TEWL showed a significant overall time effect; however, no Bonferroni-adjusted pairwise comparison versus baseline was significant. No significant changes were observed in elasticity or brightness. Mild transient burning was the most common adverse event. Other reported adverse events included acne, miliaria rubra, oiliness, and mild itching; all were non-serious and did not result in treatment discontinuation. Conclusions: The combined DFS and NFS regimen was well tolerated and was associated with favorable changes in skin texture and firmness. Transient local reactions, particularly mild burning sensation, were commonly reported but did not result in treatment discontinuation. Further controlled studies are warranted to confirm these observations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

36 pages, 4005 KB  
Review
Biopolymeric Delivery Systems Enriched with Melaleuca alternifolia, Mentha piperita, and Polyhydroxy Acids for Acne Management: A Narrative Review
by Mireya Suárez-Pérez, Octavio Dublán-García, Ana Gabriela Morachis-Valdez, Karinne Saucedo-Vence, Manuel Reinhart Kirchmayr, Francisco Antonio López-Medina, Guadalupe López-García, Ángel Santillán-Álvarez, Gerardo Heredia-García, Daniel Díaz-Bandera and Roxana Valdés-Ramos
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 145; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030145 - 3 Jun 2026
Viewed by 773
Abstract
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit involving follicular hyperkeratinization, altered sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, microbiome imbalance, and immune activation. Although antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and keratolytic agents remain central to clinical management, their long-term use may be [...] Read more.
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit involving follicular hyperkeratinization, altered sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, microbiome imbalance, and immune activation. Although antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and keratolytic agents remain central to clinical management, their long-term use may be limited by irritation, recurrence, adherence issues, and increasing antimicrobial resistance. This narrative review critically evaluates the dermatological relevance of Melaleuca alternifolia tea tree essential oil (TTEO), Mentha piperita peppermint essential oil (PPEO), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), as well as their incorporation into biopolymeric delivery systems for acne-oriented topical applications. Following SANRA principles, evidence from clinical, preclinical, ex vivo, and in vitro studies was synthesized, with emphasis on antimicrobial activity, inflammatory modulation, keratolytic and barrier-supportive effects, formulation stability, and release behavior. TTEO shows the strongest clinical support among the reviewed natural bioactives, including reductions in lesion counts and acne severity when applied as conventional or nanoemulsion-based formulations. PPEO is mainly supported by experimental evidence, particularly antimicrobial activity against acne-associated microorganisms, anti-inflammatory potential, and menthol-related neurocutaneous effects, whereas acne-specific clinical validation remains limited. PHAs, particularly gluconolactone, are better supported for barrier improvement, hydration, tolerability, and seboregulation than for direct acne lesion reduction. Hydrogels, electrospun nanofibers, polymeric films, nanoencapsulation systems, and controlled-release platforms may improve local retention, protect volatile or irritation-prone compounds, and modulate active release at the skin surface. However, most biopolymeric platforms still rely on early-stage or indirect dermatological evidence. Overall, biopolymeric delivery systems offer a rational formulation strategy to improve the stability, tolerability, and localized action of selected acne-relevant bioactives, but their clinical translation requires standardized composition, reproducible fabrication, skin-relevant release assays, safety assessment, and controlled human studies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)
►▼ Show Figures

Graphical abstract

9 pages, 1277 KB  
Article
UV-Induced Lipid Peroxidation as a Biomarker of Photodamage in the Stratum Corneum of Black Skin Assayed by the HPLC–TBARS–EVSC Protocol
by Michelle Maria Gonçalves Barão de Aguiar, Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco and André Rolim Baby
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 144; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030144 - 3 Jun 2026
Viewed by 892
Abstract
Brazil is characterized by high levels of solar exposure, which may compromise skin health due to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), particularly among individuals with darker skin tones who often underuse photoprotective measures. Although darker skin has been hypothesized to exhibit greater resistance to UVR, [...] Read more.
Brazil is characterized by high levels of solar exposure, which may compromise skin health due to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), particularly among individuals with darker skin tones who often underuse photoprotective measures. Although darker skin has been hypothesized to exhibit greater resistance to UVR, robust evidence remains limited. This study aimed to investigate the susceptibility of the stratum corneum (SC) of Black individuals to UV-induced lipid peroxidation using the HPLC–TBARS–EVSC protocol. SC samples were collected from the forearms of nine participants by tape stripping and subsequently exposed to an artificial UV radiation source. Lipid peroxidation was quantified through the detection of the malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid (MDA-TBA2) adduct using high-performance liquid chromatography. Following UV exposure, a statistically significant increase in lipid peroxidation was observed, corresponding to an approximate 297% elevation in MDA-TBA2 levels (p < 0.05). These findings demonstrate that the SC of Black skin is susceptible to UV-induced oxidative damage under the tested conditions. The results support the use of phototype-independent biochemical markers to assess photodamage and reinforce the need for effective photoprotection strategies in individuals with darker skin tones. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

16 pages, 1754 KB  
Article
A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study Evaluating the Effects of a Polyphenol-Rich Fruit Extract Combined with Biotin on Wrinkle Morphology, Skin Surface Roughness, and Hair Shedding
by Ralf Jäger, Martin Purpura, Sebastian T. Balcombe, Daniel Molina, Lucía Fernández, David González and Alejandro Pérez-Fernández
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 143; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030143 - 3 Jun 2026
Viewed by 550
Abstract
Polyphenol-rich botanical extracts have emerged as promising nutricosmetic interventions against signs of skin aging. Fruit polyphenols improve skin appearance, while biotin plays a recognized role in keratin synthesis and hair follicle metabolism, yet their combined effects have not been evaluated. This study assessed [...] Read more.
Polyphenol-rich botanical extracts have emerged as promising nutricosmetic interventions against signs of skin aging. Fruit polyphenols improve skin appearance, while biotin plays a recognized role in keratin synthesis and hair follicle metabolism, yet their combined effects have not been evaluated. This study assessed the effects of a red- and blackcurrant polyphenol with biotin supplement (RiboBeauty®) in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Fifty-four women were randomized, and fifty-two were eligible for the efficacy analyses (Placebo, n = 27; Supplement, n = 25). Over 12 weeks, wrinkle morphology and skin roughness were quantified by 3D imaging and hair shedding by a combing test. For skin roughness, mean local peak-to-peak amplitude (Stm) showed significant within-group reductions in the supplement group at D56 (−4.897%; p = 0.0489) and D84 (−6.558%; p = 0.0491), without significant between-group differences. Hair shedding was significantly lower in the Supplement group versus Placebo at D28 (−30.90%; p = 0.0203) and D56 (−41.58%; p = 0.0158), although the treatment × time interaction was not significant. The crow’s feet wrinkle area showed numerically (but non-statistically significant) lower values in the supplement group than in the placebo group at all post-baseline visits. Overall, these findings indicate a favorable efficacy signal, while the limited demonstration of statistically significant placebo superiority across the main skin outcomes warrants cautious interpretation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

13 pages, 2542 KB  
Communication
Scarless Abdominoplasty in the Umbilical Region: Indications and Contraindications
by Valentin I. Sharobaro, Donia Abbasi, Dmitry A. Sidorenkov, Yury V. Ivanov, Mikhail V. Anurov, Zoriy Grigoryan and Ilya Y. Aristov
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030142 - 3 Jun 2026
Viewed by 396
Abstract
Introduction: Standard abdominoplasty inevitably causes scarring in the umbilical region. Given the aesthetic significance of the navel, as the central anatomical landmark of the anterior abdominal wall, techniques that preserve the natural anatomy are warranted. The criteria for patient selection for such operations [...] Read more.
Introduction: Standard abdominoplasty inevitably causes scarring in the umbilical region. Given the aesthetic significance of the navel, as the central anatomical landmark of the anterior abdominal wall, techniques that preserve the natural anatomy are warranted. The criteria for patient selection for such operations remain poorly defined, limiting their clinical application. Objective: The aim of this study was to define the indications and contraindications for scarless abdominoplasty in the umbilical region through a comparative analysis of clinical and subjective outcomes. Materials and Methods: A comparative study was conducted involving 115 patients operated on between 2021 and 2026. The experimental group consisted of 32 patients who underwent abdominoplasty without scarring in the umbilical region, while the control group comprised 83 patients who underwent standard abdominoplasty with umbilical transposition. The technique of scarless abdominoplasty in the umbilical region entailed limited mobilization of the cutaneous–subcutaneous flap, energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction in the supraumbilical region, suturing of rectus abdominis diastasis when clinically indicated, and fixation of the umbilicus in its physiological position without a skin incision around it. Energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction permits skin contraction in the supraumbilical area through a controlled internal thermal effect. The incidence of complications and BODY-Q questionnaire outcomes were evaluated at 3 months, 6 months, and one year. No significant differences in baseline clinical characteristics were observed between the groups. Results: The overall rate of postoperative complications in the experimental group was 18.8% (n = 6), compared to 24.1% (n = 20) in the control group; the difference was not statistically significant (p > 0.05). According to the BODY-Q questionnaire, patients in the experimental group reported significantly higher satisfaction with scar appearance (91.0 ± 3.5 vs. 83.0 ± 5.7; p < 0.001) and the umbilical region. The umbilicus retained its anatomically natural shape and depth. The use of energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction in the supraumbilical area contributed to the contraction of the upper cutaneous–subcutaneous flap, which made it possible to prevent extensive mobilization and the formation of a significant scar around the umbilicus in these patients. Conclusions: Scarless abdominoplasty in the umbilical region is a safe and effective technique in appropriately selected patients. Energy-based ultrasound-assisted liposuction produces an internal thermal effect that enhances the contraction of the cutaneous flap. Indications for this method comprise a moderate amount of excess skin tissue in the supraumbilical region, preserved skin elasticity, a normal or high umbilical position, and rectus abdominis diastasis grade I–II. Contraindications include pronounced excess skin tissue in the supraumbilical region, a low umbilical position, and general somatic contraindications to surgery. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

27 pages, 941 KB  
Systematic Review
The Impact of Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetic Products: A Systematic Review
by Florina Popa, Cristina Stanescu, Ana Maria Zavtoni and Mariana Zavtoni
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 141; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030141 - 2 Jun 2026
Viewed by 1348
Abstract
Nowadays, technology is developing so rapidly that it implicitly drives economic growth by increasing the productivity of artificial products. Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are increasingly recognized as emerging contaminants in cosmetic formulations, raising concerns about their ability to alter hormonal homeostasis through long-term, low-dose [...] Read more.
Nowadays, technology is developing so rapidly that it implicitly drives economic growth by increasing the productivity of artificial products. Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are increasingly recognized as emerging contaminants in cosmetic formulations, raising concerns about their ability to alter hormonal homeostasis through long-term, low-dose exposure. The objective of this systematic review is to synthesize current evidence on the presence, mechanisms of action, and health effects of endocrine-disrupting chemicals commonly found in cosmetic formulations, as well as existing regulatory frameworks and gaps in consumer protection. A systematic search across major scientific databases for studies published between 2000 and March 2026 was conducted in accordance with PRISMA guidelines, yielding 102 eligible studies. The most commonly identified endocrine disruptors were parabens, phthalates, benzophenones, and triclosan. Evidence shows that these compounds can mimic or block endogenous hormones, disrupt estrogenic, androgenic, and thyroid pathways, and contribute to reproductive, metabolic, and developmental disturbances. Several studies reported bioaccumulation in human tissues and measurable internal exposure with higher vulnerability in pregnant women and adolescents. Current evidence supports a biologically plausible and clinically relevant association between exposure to cosmetic-derived endocrine disruptors and adverse health outcomes. Despite regulatory progress, major gaps persist in long-term exposure assessment, mixture toxicity, and cumulative real-world risk. Strengthening surveillance, harmonizing international regulations, and encouraging safer cosmetic formulations remain essential to reducing population exposure. Although regulatory measures have been introduced, comprehensive protocols for the use of endocrine disruptors in cosmetics are still under development; additional targeted research is required to refine health risk assessments and strengthen regulatory frameworks. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

19 pages, 2120 KB  
Article
Pomegranate Peel Extract Microemulsions for Skin Delivery: Insights into Drug Release, Skin Permeation and UV Protection
by Nataša Bubić Pajić, Teodora Trninić, Darija Knežević Ratković, Vesna Antunović, Katarina Šavikin, Jelena Živković and Ranko Škrbić
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 140; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030140 - 1 Jun 2026
Viewed by 712
Abstract
Pomegranate peel, an abundant agro-industrial by-product, represents a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols, particularly punicalagin, which has been associated with antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This study aimed to develop microemulsions (MEs) containing pomegranate peel extract for dermal delivery of punicalagin using biocompatible surfactant [...] Read more.
Pomegranate peel, an abundant agro-industrial by-product, represents a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols, particularly punicalagin, which has been associated with antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This study aimed to develop microemulsions (MEs) containing pomegranate peel extract for dermal delivery of punicalagin using biocompatible surfactant systems. Three MEs differing in surfactant–cosurfactant composition (ME-A, ME-P, and ME-E) were prepared. Each formulation solubilized 1% (w/w) of pomegranate peel extract and was evaluated regarding in vitro release behavior, skin permeation/retention, antioxidant activity, and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). All investigated MEs provided sustained release of punicalagin (≈10–17% of the applied dose in 8 h). ME-A, based on an alkyl polyglucoside surfactant, showed a significantly higher cumulative release of punicalagin (60.4 µg/cm2) compared with ME-E and ME-P. In skin penetration/permeation studies, ME-A also exhibited the highest numerical total delivery of punicalagin (≈48.2 µg/cm2 after 24 h), although differences among formulations were not statistically significant. All formulations demonstrated high antioxidant activity in the DPPH assay and measurable in vitro photoprotective potential, with SPF values ranging from approximately 11 to 14. Overall, pomegranate peel extract-loaded MEs showed potential as dermal delivery systems capable of improving solubilization and modulating skin delivery of punicalagin. The combination of agro-waste-derived bioactives with biocompatible surfactants highlights the potential of these systems as sustainable approaches for skincare formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Graphical abstract

31 pages, 2378 KB  
Review
Extracellular Matrix Remodeling and Dermal Microenvironment Modulation in Regenerative Facial Aesthetics: A Critical Review of Collagen Biostimulators, Fibroblast Senescence, and Cutaneous Aging
by Paola Tatiana Espinosa Cruel, Camila Pascoal Correia dos Santos, Daniela Vieira Buchaim, Silvia Yaoska Caldera González, Geraldo Marco Rosa Junior, Camila Aparecida Ribeiro, Carlos Henrique Bertoni Reis and Rogerio Leone Buchaim
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030139 - 1 Jun 2026
Viewed by 1024
Abstract
Skin aging is a complex biological process characterized by progressive alterations in the dermal microenvironment, including extracellular matrix (ECM) disorganization, fibroblast dysfunction, and changes in the biomechanical properties of the tissue. In this context, biomaterials used in regenerative aesthetic medicine have been widely [...] Read more.
Skin aging is a complex biological process characterized by progressive alterations in the dermal microenvironment, including extracellular matrix (ECM) disorganization, fibroblast dysfunction, and changes in the biomechanical properties of the tissue. In this context, biomaterials used in regenerative aesthetic medicine have been widely employed with the aim of stimulating dermal remodeling processes. This review aimed to analyze the main biomaterials currently used in clinical practice, including calcium hydroxyapatite, poly-L-lactic acid, polycaprolactone, polynucleotides, polydeoxyribonucleotide, and nano-hydroxyapatite, focusing on their biological mechanisms and interactions with the cutaneous microenvironment. The available literature suggests that the effects of these materials are not limited to collagen induction, but also involve modulation of fibroblast activity, extracellular matrix reorganization, and progressive tissue remodeling processes. However, relevant limitations remain in the scientific literature, including methodological heterogeneity among studies and the scarcity of evidence directly clarifying the cellular mechanisms involved. Therefore, advances in this field depend on the integration of experimental research, histological analysis, and well-controlled clinical investigation, as well as a deeper understanding of cellular biology and extracellular matrix dynamics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue The Function of Extracellular Matrix for Skin Health and Beauty)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

17 pages, 1507 KB  
Article
From Facial Measurement to Spatial Mapping: A Privacy-Preserving 3D Mesh Framework for Visualizing Skin Responses in Cosmetic Human Studies
by Youngrin Kwag, Seok Hwan Oh, Hui Jeong, YooRi Kang, Min Sook Jung, Hongseok Kim and Wonkyu Hong
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030138 - 1 Jun 2026
Viewed by 446
Abstract
Conventional cosmetic human studies rely on pre–post mean comparisons, which have limitations in explaining where and how facial skin changes occur. This pilot single-arm study proposed a privacy-preserving three-dimensional (3D) facial mesh mapping framework and demonstrated its application using an illustrative dataset obtained [...] Read more.
Conventional cosmetic human studies rely on pre–post mean comparisons, which have limitations in explaining where and how facial skin changes occur. This pilot single-arm study proposed a privacy-preserving three-dimensional (3D) facial mesh mapping framework and demonstrated its application using an illustrative dataset obtained from participants who used a polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN)-containing cosmetic. Twenty-two participants underwent facial skin assessments before and after product use. Conventional analysis included pre–post comparisons of elasticity-related parameters. Additionally, 3D facial images obtained via stereophotogrammetry were converted into de-identified mesh surfaces, spatially aligned between time points, and visualized using color-coded heatmaps. For each participant, the left facial panel displayed changes in a skin hydration permittivity index, while the right panel displayed changes in the R2 gross elasticity parameter (Ua/Uf). Overall mean values tended to increase after product use; however, the 3D visualization revealed heterogeneous spatial patterns undetectable via mean values. This method improved spatial matching, enabled intuitive regional comparison, and reduced privacy concerns by removing identifiable facial features. The privacy-preserving 3D facial mesh mapping (P3DMM) framework may serve as a complementary tool for cosmetic human studies, enabling the generation of structured, de-identified spatial datasets for future skin response research. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Non-Invasive Diagnostics: New Advance in Cosmetology and Aesthetic Medicine)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

16 pages, 1102 KB  
Article
Sustainable Valorization of Amazonian Byrsonima crassifolia (Murici): Phytochemical Profile and Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities for Cosmetic Applications
by Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso, Fernando Yutaka de Ferreira, Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa, Maria P. M. Marques, Ana Luísa Correia Brandão, Natalia Alves Zoppe, Kássia Aiko Asano-Miyashiro, Guilherme Justiniano-Mizumoto, João Tadeu Ribeiro-Paes, Valdecir Farias Ximenes and Lucinéia dos Santos
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030137 - 29 May 2026
Viewed by 488
Abstract
Considering the rich biodiversity of plant species in the Amazon region and the importance of investigating their medicinal properties as a means of valuing and preserving this biome, this study aimed to evaluate the phytochemical profile, cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of [...] Read more.
Considering the rich biodiversity of plant species in the Amazon region and the importance of investigating their medicinal properties as a means of valuing and preserving this biome, this study aimed to evaluate the phytochemical profile, cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of the hydroalcoholic extract of Byrsonima crassifolia leaves (HEBC). Phytochemical analysis revealed high concentrations of phenols, with emphasis on condensed tannins. In addition, the presence of catechin, a precursor of condensed tannins, was analyzed and characterized by HPLC. The cytotoxic evaluation demonstrated the absence of cytotoxicity of HEBC at concentrations of 100, 200 and 400 µg/mL at all times analyzed. Finally, HEBC exhibited strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities, likely associated with the presence of catechin. Therefore, with the aim of enhancing the value of Byrsonima crassifolia and promoting its sustainable use, HEBC emerges as a promising candidate for the development of a novel phytotherapeutic agent. In future studies, HEBC is intended to be incorporated into specific formulations and subjected to further analyses to confirm its therapeutic efficacy and safety. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic Oxidative Stress and Inflammation, 3rd Edition)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

12 pages, 944 KB  
Article
Ecklonia cava Extract as an Anti-Aging Cosmetic Ingredient Enhancing Skin Hydration, Elasticity, and Density
by Hyeonjung Jung, Da-Hye Gam, Su-In Kwon, Dong-Hyun Kim and Joonseok Cha
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 136; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030136 - 29 May 2026
Viewed by 807
Abstract
The demand for naturally derived ingredients in cosmetics is constantly growing, with marine algae emerging as promising candidates due to their rich antioxidant and protective metabolites. Skin aging, driven by oxidative stress, impaired hydration, and weakening of the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ), manifests as [...] Read more.
The demand for naturally derived ingredients in cosmetics is constantly growing, with marine algae emerging as promising candidates due to their rich antioxidant and protective metabolites. Skin aging, driven by oxidative stress, impaired hydration, and weakening of the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ), manifests as dryness, loss of elasticity, and reduced density. Conventional synthetic antioxidants raise safety concerns, highlighting the need for effective natural alternatives. Ecklonia cava, an edible brown seaweed abundant in phlorotannins, has been reported to possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, yet its effects on key molecular markers of hydration and DEJ integrity remain underexplored. In this study, we standardized an E. cava extract (ECE) and evaluated its antioxidant activity, gene regulatory effects, and clinical efficacy. ECE was standardized by measuring total polyphenols and flavonoids, evaluated by DPPH scavenging assay, and shown to upregulate DEJ-related genes, reinforcing dermal–epidermal cohesion. A randomized clinical trial further confirmed that topical application of ECE improved hydration, elasticity, and density compared with placebo, with benefits evident within weeks. Collectively, these findings establish ECE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient capable of protecting the skin while enhancing structural and functional aspects of skin health, supporting its potential application in anti-aging skincare. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Graphical abstract

22 pages, 1754 KB  
Article
Valorizing Sicilian Grape Pomace for Sustainable Nanocosmetic Applications
by Chiara Leonardi, Claudia Sciacca, Vera Muccilli, Nunzio Cardullo, Debora Santonocito and Carmelo Puglia
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030135 - 29 May 2026
Viewed by 432
Abstract
(1) Background: Grape pomace (GP), a major by-product of winemaking, is a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, although their instability limits cosmetic applications. This study aimed to valorize GP through a green extraction process and improve its [...] Read more.
(1) Background: Grape pomace (GP), a major by-product of winemaking, is a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, although their instability limits cosmetic applications. This study aimed to valorize GP through a green extraction process and improve its incorporation and apparent stability in cosmetic formulations through SLN-based systems. (2) Methods: GP extracts were obtained using an eco-friendly extraction method and encapsulated using a W/O/W double emulsion-solvent evaporation technique; nanoparticles were characterized (size, polydispersity, zeta potential) and incorporated into cosmetic formulations compared with a blank and a formulation containing free extract. (3) Results: GP-SLNs exhibited suitable physicochemical properties and preserved antioxidant activity, as confirmed by DPPH and ORAC assays; SLN incorporation appeared to preliminarily improve the photostability profile of the formulation under UVA irradiation conditions; in vivo tests showed enhanced skin hydration and moderate occlusivity, while stability studies confirmed consistent color, odor, pH, and viscosity over 60 days; microbiological analyses demonstrated safety and concentration-dependent antimicrobial activity. (4) Conclusions: SLN encapsulation preserved GP bioactivity and improved formulation stability and performance, supporting its potential use in multifunctional cosmetic products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

10 pages, 2827 KB  
Communication
Potato Peel Extract Attenuates the Reduction in Type I Collagen in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast Cells Induced by Oxidative Stress
by Mari Suto, Hirofumi Masutomi and Katsuyuki Ishihara
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 134; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030134 - 28 May 2026
Viewed by 688
Abstract
Oxidative stress contributes to skin aging. Potato peels contain various functional components, and potato peel extract (PPE) promotes type I collagen synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). In this study, we investigated the effects of PPE under oxidative stress conditions. NHDFs were [...] Read more.
Oxidative stress contributes to skin aging. Potato peels contain various functional components, and potato peel extract (PPE) promotes type I collagen synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). In this study, we investigated the effects of PPE under oxidative stress conditions. NHDFs were exposed to hydrogen peroxide, followed by treatment with PPE prepared by ethanol extraction of potato peel residues. Exposure to hydrogen peroxide reduced type I collagen secretion in NHDF. However, this reduction was suppressed by the addition of PPE. The expression level of the type I collagen gene, COL1A2, showed a tendency to improve with PPE treatment. The promotion of collagen synthesis by PPE appears to involve the TGFBR2, ERK, and Akt signaling pathways. PPE also reduced the increased production of MMP-1 induced by hydrogen peroxide exposure and suppressed the upregulation of AP-1, a transcription factor upstream of MMP-1. While PPE exhibited antioxidant activity at high concentrations, it did not reduce intracellular ROS levels at the concentrations used for cell treatment. These findings suggest that PPE suppresses the reduction in collagen levels under oxidative stress conditions by promoting type I collagen synthesis and modulating MMP-1/AP-1/TIMP-1-related pathways, suggesting decreased collagen breakdown under oxidative stress conditions. PPE may serve as a potential material for maintaining collagen levels. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

13 pages, 3333 KB  
Article
A Double-Blind Randomized Preliminary Study Comparing the Efficacy and Tolerance of a New Retinoid Combination with the Equivalent Retinol Concentration in the Treatment of Skin Aging
by Maria Teresa Truchuelo-Díez, Ana López-Sánchez, Luisa Haya, Juan José Andrés-Lencina and María Vitale
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 133; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030133 - 26 May 2026
Viewed by 951
Abstract
Background: Retinol has consistently demonstrated efficacy in improving signs of skin aging. However, recent European Union regulations have limited its cosmetic concentration to 0.3%, creating the need for new formulations to be capable of maintaining high efficacy, safety, and tolerance. Material and Methods: [...] Read more.
Background: Retinol has consistently demonstrated efficacy in improving signs of skin aging. However, recent European Union regulations have limited its cosmetic concentration to 0.3%, creating the need for new formulations to be capable of maintaining high efficacy, safety, and tolerance. Material and Methods: This clinical study aimed to evaluate and compare the rejuvenating effects and tolerance of a 0.5% retinol serum with a new equivalent technology, Retinduo®, which previously showed promising preclinical results. A single-center, prospective, randomized, controlled, double-blind, two-arm parallel study was conducted in 40 Caucasian women aged 38–60 years with moderate photoaging (Glogau II). A total of 20 participants applied Retinduo® serum and 20 applied retinol 0.5%, following a progressive application protocol. Clinical and instrumental assessments measured hydration, firmness, elasticity, tone homogeneity, melanin levels, skin roughness, wrinkle parameters, and stratum corneum thickness. Results and Discussion: Both formulations significantly improved hydration, firmness, and elasticity from day 28 onward. Retinduo® showed a significant increase in viscoelasticity (R8) from day 56, while retinol 0.5% did not demonstrate significant changes in this parameter. Melanin reduction was observed with Retinduo® at days 28 and 56 and with retinol 0.5% just at day 28. Although a reduction in melanin was observed with both ingredients, the reduction was more significant with Retinduo® at 56 days. Both treatments reduced the thickness of the stratum corneum; however, with Retinduo®, a significant and more pronounced reduction was achieved after 3 months of treatment (30% (p = 0.0001) vs. 12% (p = 0.033). Retinduo® demonstrated significant wrinkle depth reduction at day 28 and in wrinkle amplitude (width and length of wrinkles) at the end of treatment, while 0.5% retinol showed a positive trend in this parameter. Both products exhibited excellent tolerance. Conclusions: Overall, Retinduo® achieved comparable or slightly superior anti-aging effects while aligning with current European regulatory limits. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies—2nd Edition)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

5 pages, 160 KB  
Editorial
Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry–Volume 2. Green Technologies Shaping the Future of Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals
by Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik and Agata Wawrzyńczak
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 132; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030132 - 25 May 2026
Viewed by 1626
Abstract
The evolution of naturally originated fine chemicals within the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors is currently marked by a strategic shift from petrochemical feedstocks toward a sustainable, bio-based circular economy [...] Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
35 pages, 2667 KB  
Review
The Benefits of Using Exosomes in Professional Cosmetic Products: From Theory to Practice
by Gabrielle Costa, Elisa Silva, Fátima Silva, Ana Casas, Bernardo Bastos, Clévio Nóbrega, Maria Beatriz P. P. Oliveira and Hugo Almeida
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 131; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030131 - 24 May 2026
Viewed by 1656
Abstract
The integration of exosomes into professional cosmetics marks a significant paradigm shift from traditional passive formulations to advanced regenerative esthetics. Rather than being defined solely by their nanometric dimensions or classical association with endosomal biogenesis, these vesicles function as highly targeted intercellular messengers [...] Read more.
The integration of exosomes into professional cosmetics marks a significant paradigm shift from traditional passive formulations to advanced regenerative esthetics. Rather than being defined solely by their nanometric dimensions or classical association with endosomal biogenesis, these vesicles function as highly targeted intercellular messengers capable of delivering complex bioactive payloads to modulate tissue repair and collagen synthesis. While robust preclinical and clinical trials validate their remarkable potential in skin rejuvenation, hair restoration, and hyperpigmentation management, significant translational barriers remain. A critical analysis of the current literature reveals that successful clinical outcomes frequently rely on physical penetration enhancers, such as microneedling or fractional lasers, making it challenging to isolate the autonomous efficacy of topical vesicles from the trauma-induced regenerative response. Furthermore, commercial viability is dictated by stringent regulatory frameworks. In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 strictly prohibits human-derived biologicals, while the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) aggressively monitors the unsubstantiated marketing of cellular therapies. To navigate these biosafety and legal constraints, the aesthetic industry is increasingly pivoting toward non-human and legally compliant alternatives. Consequently, Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles (PDEVs), microbiome-derived exosomes (such as those obtained from bacterial fermentation), and bioengineered synthetic analogues have become the focal point of market innovation. A practical evaluation of the MCCM Medical Cosmetics portfolio illustrates this strategic shift, demonstrating the clinical versatility of botanical sources. To secure the long-term credibility of exosome technology, the industry must overcome current manufacturing heterogeneity by aligning with international standardization frameworks, such as the MISEV2023 guidelines, thereby ensuring reliable delivery systems, batch-to-batch consistency, and uncompromised consumer safety. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the biological mechanisms, clinical efficacy, and translational challenges associated with exosome-based cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
►▼ Show Figures

Figure 1

Show export options expand_more Show export options expand_less
Select all
Export citation of selected articles as:
 
Displaying articles 1-61
Previous Issue
Next Issue
Back to TopTop