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Cosmetics
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Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics
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Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284). This special issue belongs to the section "Cosmetic Formulations".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 30 September 2026 | Viewed by 13617

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Vincenzo Nobile

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
R&D Department, Complife Italia S.r.l., 27028 San Martino Siccomario, Italy
Interests: dermo-cosmetic treatment; alopecia; antiaging efficacy; utraceutical; sunscreen

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Safeguarding the skin from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a central focus of contemporary dermatology and cosmetic science. Photoprotection strategies rely on sunscreens as frontline products designed to shield the skin from harmful UV rays but also on products or approaches (e.g. food supplements, antioxidants, boosters etc.) to complement their use and provide comprehensive defense against UVR.

The global regulatory framework for sunscreen is fragmented. This fragmentation poses challenges for product innovation and consumer trust. Recently, two new ISO standards methods were introduced to assess the sun protection and the UVA protection factor of emulsions and single-phase formulations. While these standards aim to enhance the precision, ethics, and reliability of sunscreen testing, they also contribute to further fragmentation. Furthermore, since the efficacy of modern sunscreens does not rely only on UV filters, the results of testing in real laboratory settings are essential to understanding their accuracy, reliability, and relevance and to support future sunscreen evaluation and safeguarding consumer health by setting new standards.

Similarly, photoprotection strategies that focus not only on shielding against UV radiation but also on enhancing the skin’s resistance to UV exposure and promoting the repair of UV-induced damage show significant promise. However, further studies are necessary to validate their true efficacy and differentiate substantiated benefits from mere marketing claims.

Dr. Vincenzo Nobile
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 250 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for assessment.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • innovative ingredients & formulations for photoprotection
  • advanced methods for sunscreen efficacy testing
  • challenges & emerging trends in sunscreen development
  • evaluation techniques for photoprotection performance
  • phototoxicity & photoallergy: risks and prevention
  • sunscreen safety: toxicology, regulation & compliance
  • clinical research on bioactives with photoprotective properties
  • in vivo & in vitro testing of sunscreen performance
  • dispersion, homogeneity and stability of UV filters in sunscreen formulations
  • environmental impact of sunscreen ingredients
  • epigenetic mechanisms in photoprotection: regulation, adaptation, and skin defense
  • regulatory challenges & global standards
  • oral photoprotection
  • consumer perception & behavioral trends in sunscreen application/use
  • consumer awareness on sun damage
  • photoprotection and skin microbiome

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

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12 pages, 1132 KB  
Article
Analysis of UV Filters in Sunscreen Products on the Lithuanian Pharmacy Market
by Ula Levanaityte, Giedre Kasparaviciene, Nijole Savickiene and Jurga Bernatoniene
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030101 - 22 Apr 2026
Viewed by 367
Abstract
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a recognized human carcinogen, and topical sunscreens remain the primary strategy for photoprotection. As community pharmacies represent trusted sources of skincare products, evaluating the composition of sunscreens distributed through this channel is particularly relevant. This cross-sectional market analysis investigated [...] Read more.
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a recognized human carcinogen, and topical sunscreens remain the primary strategy for photoprotection. As community pharmacies represent trusted sources of skincare products, evaluating the composition of sunscreens distributed through this channel is particularly relevant. This cross-sectional market analysis investigated UV filters used in sunscreen products available in Lithuanian community pharmacies in November–December 2025. Products were identified through online pharmacy catalogs and assessed for labeled Sun Protection Factor (SPF), number and type of UV filters, and filter combinations in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. A total of 467 products from 98 brands were included, and 26 distinct UV filters were identified. Triazine derivatives predominated, particularly bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (64.67%) and ethylhexyl triazone (58.03%). Most products (61.67%) were labeled SPF ≥ 50 and contained multiple UV filters (mean 4.29 ± 1.66), with significantly more filters in SPF ≥ 50 formulations (p < 0.001). These results indicate that sunscreen products available in Lithuanian pharmacies are dominated by high-SPF formulations and selective multi-filter systems, providing region-specific insights relevant to regulatory oversight and consumer exposure assessment. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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22 pages, 2824 KB  
Article
Synergistic Effects of Hydroxyapatite Derived from Fish Bone and Tinosorb® S on the UV Protection Performance of Sunscreen
by Pornsatit Sookchoo, Soottawat Benjakul, Thummanoon Prodpran, Thanaporn Amnuaikit and Supranee Lao-ubol
Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020071 - 16 Mar 2026
Viewed by 1041
Abstract
Sunscreens are essential for photoprotection, but conventional inorganic UV filters raise concerns regarding marine toxicity. This study investigated hydroxyapatite (HAp) derived from skipjack, tongol, and salmon bone waste as a potential synergistic booster for Tinosorb® S (TS). HAp powders were prepared via [...] Read more.
Sunscreens are essential for photoprotection, but conventional inorganic UV filters raise concerns regarding marine toxicity. This study investigated hydroxyapatite (HAp) derived from skipjack, tongol, and salmon bone waste as a potential synergistic booster for Tinosorb® S (TS). HAp powders were prepared via alkaline treatment and calcination at 900 °C. XRD and XRF results confirmed highly crystalline HAp as the dominant phase. While 10% HAp alone provided negligible UV protection, a pronounced synergistic effect was observed in 1:1 hybrid formulations (5% HAp:5% TS), significantly enhancing Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet A Protection Factor (UVAPF). Notably, particle-size refinement of salmon-derived HAp (SM–HAp) yielded an SPF of approximately 35, comparable to a commercial HAp counterpart. This improvement was suggested to be associated with enhanced dispersion, film uniformity, and particle–matrix interactions, which might contribute to achieving PA++++ protection. All formulations complied with microbiological and heavy metal safety standards. These results indicated that fish bone-derived HAp could potentially serve as a viable and sustainable functional additive derived from marine biowaste for the development of high-performance hybrid sunscreens, promoting biomaterial valorization in the cosmetic industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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15 pages, 1629 KB  
Article
Photoprotective Effects of Oral Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) Seed Oil Supplementation Against UV-Induced Skin Damage: Evidence from Two Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trials
by Vincenzo Nobile, Stéphanie Dudonné, Catherine Kern, Gloria Roveda, Silvana Giardina and Christine Garcia
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 285; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060285 - 12 Dec 2025
Viewed by 1965
Abstract
Skin is constantly exposed to UV radiation. While topical sunscreens are the main preventative measure, oral photoprotective agents are emerging as promising systemic adjuncts, offering uniform, continuous protection. This study presents the results of two clinical trials designed to evaluate the efficacy of [...] Read more.
Skin is constantly exposed to UV radiation. While topical sunscreens are the main preventative measure, oral photoprotective agents are emerging as promising systemic adjuncts, offering uniform, continuous protection. This study presents the results of two clinical trials designed to evaluate the efficacy of supplementation with a standardized coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) seed oil (CSO) in mitigating UV-induced skin damage, in comparison with a placebo. The first trial investigated the effects of CSO supplementation on women with reactive skin, assessing UVA+B-induced skin erythema and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) release. The second trial included women of all skin types and, in addition to the outcomes mentioned above, examined UVA-induced lipoperoxidation. Measurements were taken before and after 56 days of supplementation. CSO supplementation led to a significant reduction in UV-induced skin erythema and associated TNF-α levels in both cohorts, with decreases of 11.8% and 24.1% in the reactive skin group and 18.1% and 18.7% in the cohort with all skin types, respectively. In women of all skin types, UV-induced skin lipoperoxidation was reduced by 31.9% at 4 h and by 69.9% at 24 h post-exposure. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study reporting the photoprotective efficacy of CSO. This finding is attributed to CSO’s high petroselinic acid content and its known anti-inflammatory properties. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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15 pages, 1199 KB  
Article
The Influence of Titanium Dioxide Particle Size on the Photo-Protective Properties of Pharmaceutical Preparations and Their Effectiveness Assessment Using Hyperspectral Imaging Methods
by Anna Stolecka-Warzecha, Elżbieta Mickoś, Daria Śniecińska, Dominika Malewicz-Skrabania, Adam Wilczyński and Sławomir Wilczyński
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 242; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060242 - 3 Nov 2025
Viewed by 1194
Abstract
Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO2-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. [...] Read more.
Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO2-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of TiO2 particle size on the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations using hyperspectral imaging (HIS). Methods: This study analyses directional reflectance of skin covered with preparations containing TiO2 particles < 5 µm and <100 nm across the spectral range 400–1002 nm. Results: Preparations with TiO2 < 5 µm showed higher reflectance in both the 400–633 nm and 900–1002 nm ranges, while no significant protective enhancement was observed in the 636–897 nm range. Conclusions: Larger TiO2 particles provided more significant photoprotection across a broader wavelength spectrum, highlighting the importance of particle size selection in modern sunscreen formulations. This experimental in vitro study evaluated the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations containing titanium dioxide particles of different sizes. The measurements were performed using hyperspectral imaging in the 400–1000 nm range, covering ultraviolet and visible light. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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Review

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17 pages, 1310 KB  
Review
Lip Photoprotection Patents (2014–2024): Key Trends and Emerging Technologies
by Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Ana Sofia Guerrero Casas, Leonardo Castellanos, Mairim Russo Serafini and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 161; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040161 - 29 Jul 2025
Viewed by 6680
Abstract
The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific [...] Read more.
The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific sun protection products remains underexplored. This study aims to analyze technological trends and innovations in lip photoprotection by reviewing patents published between 2014 and 2024. A comprehensive patent search using the IPC code A61Q19 and the keywords “lip” and “sunscreen” identified 17 relevant patents across China, the United States, and Japan. The patents were examined for active ingredients, formulation strategies, and use of botanical or sustainable excipients. The findings revealed that patented formulations predominantly rely on well-established UV filters such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, often combined with antioxidants like ferulic acid and rutin for enhanced efficacy. Lipid-based excipients were widely used to improve texture, hydration, and product stability. Although many formulations exhibit a conservative ingredient profile, the strategic combination of UV filters with natural antioxidants and moisturizing lipids demonstrates a multifunctional approach aimed at enhancing both protection and user experience. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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