Cosmetics

Research

20 pages, 2481 KB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Photoaging Effects of Kaempferia galanga Extract: From Cell-Based Studies to Microemulsion Development

by Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Jinnipha Pajoubpong, Piyachat Kasemkiatsakul, Ngamrayu Ngamdokmai, Mayuree Poonasri, Somnathtai Yammen and Boonyadist Vongsak

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 99; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020099 - 21 Apr 2026

Viewed by 1082

Abstract

Ozone layer depletion exacerbates UV-induced skin damage, including oxidative stress and DNA lesions, thereby increasing the risk of photoaging and malignant transformation. Natural extracts have gained increasing attention as a photoprotective ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Kaempferia galanga, a species in the Zingiberaceae [...] Read more.

Ozone layer depletion exacerbates UV-induced skin damage, including oxidative stress and DNA lesions, thereby increasing the risk of photoaging and malignant transformation. Natural extracts have gained increasing attention as a photoprotective ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Kaempferia galanga, a species in the Zingiberaceae family traditionally used for skin-related treatment and listed in the CosIng database, exhibits multiple biologically relevant properties; however, its anti-photoaging and anti-photo-senescence effects in human dermal fibroblasts remain unexplored. This study investigated the in vitro photoprotective effects of K. galanga extract against UVB-induced photoaging and cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts. The ethanolic extract of K. galanga rhizomes (EKGRs) contained ethyl p-methoxycinnamate (EPMC) as a major constituent (33.7 ± 3.7% (w/w) of the crude extract), identified by HPLC-UV. Additionally, EKGR exhibited significant protective effects in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts. EKGR showed no cytotoxicity at concentrations up to 50.0 µg/mL, as determined by the MTT assay. EKGR pretreatment significantly reduced UVB-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts compared with UVB-exposed cells (22.2 ± 2.7% vs. 36.7 ± 8.0%). Furthermore, pretreatment with EKGR prior to UVB exposure resulted in a significant increase in pro-collagen type I production (37,075.1 ± 7532.2 pg/mL) and a concomitant decrease in MMP-1 secretion (25,754.1 ± 4042.0 pg/mL) relative to UVB-exposed cells (26,845.8 ± 1454.6 and 39,910.8 ± 6035.1 pg/mL, respectively). To demonstrate formulation feasibility, EKGR was incorporated into an oil-in-water microemulsion, which exhibited concentration-dependent SPF enhancement. Collectively, these findings demonstrate the photoprotective efficacy of EPMC-rich EKGR and highlight its potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient for mitigating UVB-induced photo-senescence and skin aging, with an additional SPF boosting effect. To our knowledge, this study provides the first evidence of EKGR-mediated protection against UVB-induced cellular senescence in human dermal fibroblasts. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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14 pages, 2023 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of 20% Ferulic Acid Facial Peels on Skin Barrier Function and Elasticity: A Pilot Instrumental Study

by Marta Wacewicz-Muczyńska, Bogumiła Redlarska, Julia Lendzioszek and Agnieszka Dylewska

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020083 - 1 Apr 2026

Viewed by 1402

Abstract

Ferulic acid, a derivative of hydroxycinnamic acid, is a potent antioxidant used in dermatology for its ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species and stabilize vitamins C and E. Its multidirectional action includes photoprotection, anti-inflammatory effects, and inhibition of melanogenesis. The study aimed to [...] Read more.

Ferulic acid, a derivative of hydroxycinnamic acid, is a potent antioxidant used in dermatology for its ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species and stabilize vitamins C and E. Its multidirectional action includes photoprotection, anti-inflammatory effects, and inhibition of melanogenesis. The study aimed to quantitatively evaluate the impact of 20% ferulic acid peels on skin barrier function, sebum level, pH, and biomechanical properties (elasticity). A group of 18 subjects underwent a series of three treatments. Objective skin parameters were measured. Assessments were conducted at baseline and 14 days post-treatment. A statistically significant increase in stratum corneum hydration was observed on the cheek. Barrier function improved significantly, with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) decreasing in both analyzed areas. Biomechanical analysis revealed a statistically significant improvement in elasticity (R2 parameter) on the cheek and forehead (p < 0.05). Ferulic acid has the potential to improve epidermal hydration and support the skin’s permeability barrier, as evidenced by reduced TEWL. The stability of skin pH suggests high tolerability, confirming ferulic acid as an effective therapeutic agent for mature and sensitive skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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23 pages, 3686 KB

Open AccessArticle

Liquid Extract from the Bark of Magnolia officinalis Rejuvenates Skin Aging Through Mitochondrial ROS Reduction

by Yun Haeng Lee, Eun Young Jeong, Ye Hyang Kim, Sekyung Oh, Jee Hee Yoon, Ji Ho Park, Yoo Jin Lee, Duyeol Kim, Byeonghyeon So, Minseon Kim, So Yeon Kim, Hyung Wook Kwon, Youngjoo Byun, Song Seok Shin and Joon Tae Park

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010022 - 15 Jan 2026

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2081 | Correction

Abstract

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves [...] Read more.

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves senescence-related phenotypes in vitro. However, its effects on human skin aging have not been investigated. In this study, we conducted both in vitro and clinical trials using an M. officinalis liquid extract, which can be directly applied to cosmetic formulations. The M. officinalis liquid extract restored mitochondrial function and reduced mitochondria-enriched ROS production. Furthermore, M. officinalis liquid extract activated mitophagy, which removes defective mitochondria, a major source of ROS production. In clinical trials, the M. officinalis liquid extract reduced the mean depth of neck wrinkles by 12.73% and the maximum depth by 17.44%. It also reduced the mean roughness (Ra), root mean square roughness (Rq), and maximum depth of roughness (Rmax) by 12.73%, 10.16%, and 10.81%, respectively. Furthermore, the key to the skin-improving effects of M. officinalis liquid extract lies in its ability to increase skin elasticity by 3.76% and brighten skin tone by 0.76%. In conclusion, this study identified a novel mechanism by which M. officinalis liquid extract rejuvenates skin aging. M. officinalis can be utilized as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin aging and therapeutic candidate for the development of anti-aging treatments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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Review

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36 pages, 4005 KB

Open AccessReview

Biopolymeric Delivery Systems Enriched with Melaleuca alternifolia, Mentha piperita, and Polyhydroxy Acids for Acne Management: A Narrative Review

by Mireya Suárez-Pérez, Octavio Dublán-García, Ana Gabriela Morachis-Valdez, Karinne Saucedo-Vence, Manuel Reinhart Kirchmayr, Francisco Antonio López-Medina, Guadalupe López-García, Ángel Santillán-Álvarez, Gerardo Heredia-García, Daniel Díaz-Bandera and Roxana Valdés-Ramos

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 145; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030145 - 3 Jun 2026

Viewed by 521

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit involving follicular hyperkeratinization, altered sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, microbiome imbalance, and immune activation. Although antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and keratolytic agents remain central to clinical management, their long-term use may be [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit involving follicular hyperkeratinization, altered sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, microbiome imbalance, and immune activation. Although antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and keratolytic agents remain central to clinical management, their long-term use may be limited by irritation, recurrence, adherence issues, and increasing antimicrobial resistance. This narrative review critically evaluates the dermatological relevance of Melaleuca alternifolia tea tree essential oil (TTEO), Mentha piperita peppermint essential oil (PPEO), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), as well as their incorporation into biopolymeric delivery systems for acne-oriented topical applications. Following SANRA principles, evidence from clinical, preclinical, ex vivo, and in vitro studies was synthesized, with emphasis on antimicrobial activity, inflammatory modulation, keratolytic and barrier-supportive effects, formulation stability, and release behavior. TTEO shows the strongest clinical support among the reviewed natural bioactives, including reductions in lesion counts and acne severity when applied as conventional or nanoemulsion-based formulations. PPEO is mainly supported by experimental evidence, particularly antimicrobial activity against acne-associated microorganisms, anti-inflammatory potential, and menthol-related neurocutaneous effects, whereas acne-specific clinical validation remains limited. PHAs, particularly gluconolactone, are better supported for barrier improvement, hydration, tolerability, and seboregulation than for direct acne lesion reduction. Hydrogels, electrospun nanofibers, polymeric films, nanoencapsulation systems, and controlled-release platforms may improve local retention, protect volatile or irritation-prone compounds, and modulate active release at the skin surface. However, most biopolymeric platforms still rely on early-stage or indirect dermatological evidence. Overall, biopolymeric delivery systems offer a rational formulation strategy to improve the stability, tolerability, and localized action of selected acne-relevant bioactives, but their clinical translation requires standardized composition, reproducible fabrication, skin-relevant release assays, safety assessment, and controlled human studies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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63 pages, 2900 KB

Open AccessReview

Bioactive Compounds for Topical and Minimally Invasive Cellulite Treatment and Skin Rejuvenation

by Aura Rusu, Raluca-Daniela Mazilu, Blanka Székely-Szentmiklósi, Octavia-Laura Oancea, Corneliu Tanase, Ioana-Andreea Lungu and Gabriel Hancu

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 35; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010035 - 6 Feb 2026

Viewed by 6625

Abstract

Cellulite, a multifactorial condition affecting approximately 98% of women, is characterised by dermal and subcutaneous architectural changes that compromise skin texture and elasticity. Its progression is closely linked to hormonal, vascular, and inflammatory factors, as well as ageing-related extracellular matrix degradation. This review [...] Read more.

Cellulite, a multifactorial condition affecting approximately 98% of women, is characterised by dermal and subcutaneous architectural changes that compromise skin texture and elasticity. Its progression is closely linked to hormonal, vascular, and inflammatory factors, as well as ageing-related extracellular matrix degradation. This review critically evaluates bioactive compounds incorporated into topical and minimally invasive formulations for the management of cellulite and skin rejuvenation. A comprehensive literature search was conducted across major scientific databases and cosmetic ingredient repositories, focusing on active ingredients with demonstrated efficacy in enhancing skin structure. Key compounds include capsaicin, forskolin, L-carnitine, caffeine, retinol, and extracts from plants such as Centella asiatica, which act via lipolysis, improved circulation, and antioxidant effects. Minimally invasive agents, such as deoxycholic acid and poly-L-lactic acid, complement these strategies by inducing adipocytolysis and neocollagenesis, thereby improving skin firmness and contour. Evidence indicates that multi-active formulations combining lipolytic agents with antioxidants and collagen-stimulating molecules yield synergistic benefits, reducing adipose protrusion and improving skin firmness. However, heterogeneity in study design and the lack of standardised evaluation methods limit firm conclusions. Further studies should validate efficacy and optimise delivery. Integrated topical and injectable therapies represent a promising, multifunctional approach to addressing cellulite and age-related skin changes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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52 pages, 989 KB

Open AccessReview

Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles in Cosmetics: Building a Framework for Safety, Efficacy, and Quality

by Letizia Ferroni and Barbara Zavan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 252; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060252 - 10 Nov 2025

Cited by 13 | Viewed by 7623

Abstract

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, [...] Read more.

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, consumer safety, and scientific credibility. Here, a comprehensive set of minimal characterization guidelines for PDEVs is proposed to include physical and chemical profiling, molecular marker identification, cargo analysis, and stability assessment under storage and formulation conditions. Functional validation through cellular uptake assays, activity tests, and advanced in vitro or ex vivo models that replicate realistic skin exposure scenarios is pivotal. Requirements for transparent labelling, reproducible sourcing, batch-to-batch consistency, and biological activity substantiation to support claims related to skin regeneration, anti-aging, and microbiome modulation are also required. By establishing a harmonized baseline for quality and efficacy evaluation, these guidelines aim to elevate the scientific standards and promote the safe, ethical, and effective use of PDEV-based ingredients in cosmetic and biomedical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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30 pages, 4182 KB

Open AccessReview

Advances in Extraction Technologies of Silybum marianum L. and Its Role in Protecting Against Skin Damage

by Oumayma Iraqi, Mariam Jalal, Issam El Mouzazi, Mourad Jbene, Youness Taboz and Amar Habsaoui

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 211; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050211 - 21 Sep 2025

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 4718

Abstract

Silybum marianum L., commonly known as milk thistle, is traditionally recognized for its hepatoprotective properties. This is primarily due to silymarin, a mixture of flavonolignans with strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Although many studies have reported on its biological activities, critical syntheses that [...] Read more.

Silybum marianum L., commonly known as milk thistle, is traditionally recognized for its hepatoprotective properties. This is primarily due to silymarin, a mixture of flavonolignans with strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Although many studies have reported on its biological activities, critical syntheses that compare extraction technologies and highlight its protective roles beyond liver health remain limited. Despite the abundant literature, the protective effects of milk thistle against skin damage remain largely unexplored. To address this gap, we performed a comprehensive literature search across PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar. Our research covered publications up to February 2025 and used predefined keywords, including extraction methods for the release of silymarin, in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies relevant to its protective effects against skin damage. The evidence indicates that silymarin exerts protective effects on the skin, including the prevention of photoaging, the management of acne, the promotion of wound healing, and the defense against UV-induced damage, through the activation of Nrf2 and the preservation of the extracellular matrix. These results highlight the promising dermatological benefits of silymarin, as well as the need for further clinical studies and the optimization of environmentally sustainable extraction techniques for large-scale production. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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Other

Jump to: Research, Review

2 pages, 137 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Lee et al. Liquid Extract from the Bark of Magnolia officinalis Rejuvenates Skin Aging Through Mitochondrial ROS Reduction. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 22

by Yun Haeng Lee, Eun Young Jeong, Ye Hyang Kim, Sekyung Oh, Jee Hee Yoon, Ji Ho Park, Yoo Jin Lee, Duyeol Kim, Byeonghyeon So, Minseon Kim, So Yeon Kim, Hyung Wook Kwon, Youngjoo Byun, Song Seok Shin and Joon Tae Park

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 161; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040161 - 23 Jun 2026

Viewed by 177

Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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