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13 pages, 2521 KB

Open AccessArticle

Assessing the Impact on Barrier Function of Black Soldier Fly Larvae Lipids-Based Nanoparticles

by Cíntia Almeida, Margarida Gingado, Carolina Santos, Carla Turiel, Thalita Cândido, Ana Júlio, Catarina Pereira-Leite and Catarina Rosado

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030112 - 5 May 2026

Abstract

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin [...] Read more.

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin health applications, particularly for restoring barrier function. Following previous work on the development of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporating BSFL lipid extract, the present study focused on the mechanistic evaluation of the occlusive, moisturizing and skin reinforcement potential of these nanoformulations (NFs), by exploring both in vitro and in vivo models. The compatibility assays showed no adverse effects after patch testing on healthy or atopic individuals, nor alterations on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or redness. In vitro studies confirmed the ability of these NFs to form an occlusive lipid film, hampering moisture loss, with 39% reduction of water loss compared to the control. Efficacy assays in human volunteers revealed a statistically significant improvement in epidermal conditions at treated sites, evidenced by enhanced SC hydration. The plastic occlusion stress test (POST) revealed a trend toward a reduced evaporation half-life, suggesting a modulation of the epidermal water dynamics, although the effect did not reach statistical significance. Overall, BSFL-based lipid nanoparticles emerge as emollient agents with broad potential for incorporation into next-generation cosmetic and pharmaceutical products for the management of AD. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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20 pages, 3934 KB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Development of a Shampoo with Dark Semi-Permanent Dyes for Gradual Gray Hair Coverage

by Erika Paredes-Sulca, Felix Castillo-Morales, Adil Barrientos-Amau, Lucy Quispe-Rodriguez, Alison Zanabria-Santos, Dula Balbin-Inga, Gabriela Solano-Canchaya, Norma Ramos-Cevallos, Américo Castro-Luna and Bertran Santiago-Trujillo

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030106 - 28 Apr 2026

Viewed by 366

Abstract

Canities results from a progressive decline in melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis and is commonly associated with aesthetic concerns that motivate the use of cosmetic products for hair color correction. Shampoo, due to its frequent use, represents a suitable vehicle for the gradual [...] Read more.

Canities results from a progressive decline in melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis and is commonly associated with aesthetic concerns that motivate the use of cosmetic products for hair color correction. Shampoo, due to its frequent use, represents a suitable vehicle for the gradual deposition of pigments on the hair fiber. This study aimed to design and develop a shampoo containing dark synthetic semi-permanent dyes for the gradual coverage of gray hair. Four shampoo formulations were developed and evaluated through in vitro tests using bleached hair tresses to assess color deposition and performance. The selected formulation was subsequently subjected to accelerated stability studies and color sustainability evaluation. The results showed that the formulation maintained organoleptic, physicochemical, microbiological, and functional stability. Color sustainability assays indicated that the gray–black coloration persisted on hair tresses containing approximately 90% canities after eight washing cycles. The formulation incorporating the semi-permanent dyes Basic Blue 124, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51 achieved a gradual gray–black tonal effect. In conclusion, the developed shampoo demonstrated stability and effectiveness for the gradual cosmetic coverage of gray hair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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16 pages, 2599 KB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Antioxidant Stability and Infrared Characterization of a Cosmetic Formulation with Peruvian Bioactive Compounds

by Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco, Luciana De La Fuente-Carmelino, Patricia Lozada and Ana María Muñoz

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020057 - 3 Mar 2026

Viewed by 836

Abstract

This study assessed the structural stability and in vitro antioxidant capacity of a cosmetic formulation incorporating sangre de grado extract (Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.), aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi ( [...] Read more.

This study assessed the structural stability and in vitro antioxidant capacity of a cosmetic formulation incorporating sangre de grado extract (Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.), aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.), sourced from Peruvian biodiversity. Structural characterization was conducted using Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR) on the formulation at the initial time point (ASC T0) and after six months under accelerated stability conditions (ASC T6). Characteristic absorption bands corresponding to carbonyl, ether, and hydroxyl functional groups were observed, confirming the structural integrity of the lipid–polymeric components within the emulsifying system. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS assays, with IC₅₀ values comparable to those of a commercially available cream. In the DPPH assay, ASC T6 exhibited IC₅₀ of 5744.8571 μg/mL, comparable to a commercial formulation (5641.1585 μg/mL). In the ABTS assay, ASC T0 demonstrated antioxidant activity statistically equivalent (p > 0.05) to that of the commercial cream, with IC₅₀ values of 410.2358 and 420.2202 μg/mL, respectively. In conclusion, the preservation of antioxidant activity is attributed to the structural integrity of the formulated system, which stabilized and retained synergistic interactions of the antioxidants. Future studies should explore the incorporation of additional antioxidants and include in vivo instrumental assessments of stability and efficacy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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12 pages, 1025 KB

Open AccessArticle

Dermal Absorption and Quantitative Analysis of Amaranth, a Cosmetic Colorant, in Rat Skin Using an In Vitro Franz Diffusion Model

by Jung Dae Lee, Hyang Yeon Kim, Gi-Wook Hwang and Kyu-Bong Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020050 - 25 Feb 2026

Viewed by 670

Abstract

Amaranth (R2) is used as a color additive in cosmetics. In Korea, R2 is permitted only as a cosmetic colorant and is prohibited in products intended for infants and children under 13 years of age; in Europe, it is regulated solely as a [...] Read more.

Amaranth (R2) is used as a color additive in cosmetics. In Korea, R2 is permitted only as a cosmetic colorant and is prohibited in products intended for infants and children under 13 years of age; in Europe, it is regulated solely as a cosmetic colorant rather than a hair dye ingredient. Despite its regulatory relevance, dermal absorption data for R2 are lacking. In this study, percutaneous absorption of R2 was evaluated using the Franz diffusion method with excised rat dorsal skin. Quantitative analysis of R2 was developed and validated using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in accordance with Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety guidelines, demonstrating acceptable linearity (r² = 0.9996–0.9999), accuracy (95.5–104.4%), and precision (0.3–5.8%). Two formulations (skin lotion and cream), each containing 1% R2, were applied at 113 mg/cm² for 24 h. Dermal absorption was assessed by analyzing receptor fluid, skin wash, stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis. Total dermal absorption of R2 was 3.4 ± 2.7% for the lotion and 0% for the cream, corresponding to in vitro skin permeabilities of 34.5 ± 27.0 μg/cm² and 0 μg/cm², respectively. Total recovery ranged from 80.3 ± 8.2% to 91.4 ± 19.4%. These results provide essential data for cosmetic risk assessment of R2. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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11 pages, 1526 KB

Open AccessArticle

Therapeutic Potential of Ozonized Glycerin in Skin Inflammation and Repair

by John Ivarsson, Anna Guiotto, Giulia Trinchera, Alessandra Pecorelli, Gotaro Shiota and Giuseppe Valacchi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010042 - 12 Feb 2026

Viewed by 2316

Abstract

Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread [...] Read more.

Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread use in cosmetics, enhancing the functional capacities of glycerin provides a promising method to improve the effectiveness of numerous cosmetics. Ozonized glycerin has emerged as a novel technology able to enhance glycerin’s effectiveness with reported anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiviral effects. This approach leverages ozone stabilization in glycerin for improved stability and prolonged release to the skin. Clinical application of ozonized glycerin has exhibited lightening of aging spots through promoting skin turnover. The objective of this study was to evaluate the enhanced properties of glycerin when ozonized in terms of skin repair and inflammation. Through topical pretreatment of epidermal 3D wound healing models (13 days) and ex vivo human skin biopsies (4 days), ozonized glycerin was able to improve wound closure, enhance skin barrier and extracellular matrix protein expression, and reduce inflammation. Notably, ozonized glycerin enhanced wound closure by 6.8% compared to glycerin, as well as significantly protecting against LPS-induced elastin degradation (67.7% difference from LPS). These data provide evidence for the use of ozonized glycerin as a new technology to prevent and diminish skin inflammation and improve wound repair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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Review

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12 pages, 965 KB

Open AccessReview

Poly-L-lactic Acid (Sculptra^®): A Regenerative Aesthetic Treatment

by Sabrina G. Fabi, Alessandra Haddad, Luiz Avelar, Michael Somenek, Katie Beleznay, Steven Dayan, Kathryn Taylor-Barnes, Jeff Huang, Alan D. Widgerow, Matthew Meckfessel and Daniel Bråsäter

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030103 - 27 Apr 2026

Viewed by 729

Abstract

Regenerative medicine aims to restore the structure and function for improved tissue health; reduced tissue health can arise from causes such as aging, which results in the ongoing degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin. Replacement of a single biological component [...] Read more.

Regenerative medicine aims to restore the structure and function for improved tissue health; reduced tissue health can arise from causes such as aging, which results in the ongoing degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin. Replacement of a single biological component is not sufficient for an esthetic treatment to be described as regenerative; it is the relative amounts, ratios, types and organization of stimulated components that are important in a treatment’s regenerative potential. Regenerative aesthetics aims to recapture the youthful structure and function of tissue by exploiting the body’s own systems. Poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA-SCA; Sculptra^®), an injectable, biodegradable, non-permanent biostimulator, induces a combination of mechanotransductional/mechanical stimulation and foreign body reaction response and promotes ECM remodeling via the production of collagen through the upregulation of cytokines interleukin-1b and CXCL6, elastin, proteoglycans and multiadhesive glycoproteins. In addition, PLLA-SCA stimulates adipocyte rejuvenation/adipogenesis and increases the thickness of the dermis and adipose layers. Hence, PLLA-SCA stimulates endogenous pathways, and the array of biostimulatory effects should not be considered individually but as interlinked with the overall goal of improvement in skin health. These effects manifest clinically as long-term improvements in the mechanical properties of the skin, the restoration of volume and elasticity, improvements in skin quality and thickness, and dermal remodeling. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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22 pages, 1113 KB

Open AccessReview

Neurocosmetics and the Skin–Brain Axis from a Psychological and Psychiatric Standpoint

by Giuseppe Marano, Oksana Di Giacomi, Marco Lanzetta, Camilla Scialpi, Antonio Sottile, Gianandrea Traversi, Osvaldo Mazza, Claudia d’Abate, Eleonora Gaetani and Marianna Mazza

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030102 - 24 Apr 2026

Viewed by 375

Abstract

The skin–brain axis constitutes a complex, bidirectional network integrating cutaneous sensory, immune, and neuroendocrine systems with central neural circuits involved in emotion regulation, stress responsivity, and social cognition. Advances in psychodermatology and cosmetic science have progressively extended this framework to the emerging field [...] Read more.

The skin–brain axis constitutes a complex, bidirectional network integrating cutaneous sensory, immune, and neuroendocrine systems with central neural circuits involved in emotion regulation, stress responsivity, and social cognition. Advances in psychodermatology and cosmetic science have progressively extended this framework to the emerging field of neurocosmetics, which explores how topical formulations, sensorial properties, and cutaneous neuromodulators may influence psychological well-being, affective states, and perceived stress. The aim of this narrative review is to synthesize current evidence on the biological foundations of the skin–brain axis and to critically examine the implications of these mechanisms for neurocosmetic interventions from a psychological and psychiatric perspective. It describes the biological substrates underlying skin–brain communication, including the cutaneous hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis, neuropeptides, neurotrophins, transient receptor potential channels, and endocannabinoid signaling, and examines how these pathways are targeted by neurocosmetic interventions. Particular attention is devoted to neuroactive compounds, such as peptides, cannabinoids, botanicals, and aromatherapeutic molecules, as well as to sensorial strategies involving texture, temperature, and olfactory cues, which may modulate mood, anxiety, and self-perception through peripheral mechanisms. From a psychological and psychiatric perspective, the review discusses the intersection between stress-related skin conditions, body image disturbances, and emotional dysregulation, highlighting how cosmetic practices may influence subjective well-being beyond purely aesthetic outcomes. Methodological limitations of the existing literature, including the heterogeneity of study designs and outcome measures, as well as ethical considerations related to mood- and stress-related claims in cosmetic products, are critically examined. Finally, future research directions are outlined, and a translational framework is proposed to integrate dermatology, neuroscience, and mental health within next-generation cosmetic science. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

14 pages, 1339 KB

Open AccessReview

A Reappraisal of Poly-l-Lactic Acid in Facial and Body Aesthetic Indications

by Delia Colombo and Sabrina Gronchi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020054 - 27 Feb 2026

Viewed by 1480

Abstract

Poly-l-Lactic acid (PLLA) is a synthetic, absorbable injectable implant widely used in both facial and body cosmetic applications. Originally approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating facial lipoatrophy in Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) patients, PLLA is now also [...] Read more.

Poly-l-Lactic acid (PLLA) is a synthetic, absorbable injectable implant widely used in both facial and body cosmetic applications. Originally approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating facial lipoatrophy in Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) patients, PLLA is now also indicated for correcting facial wrinkles, and its use has been more recently evaluated to enhance body areas such as the cheeks, hands, neck, thighs, and gluteal region. This narrative review specifically examines PLLA’s versatility in rejuvenating not only the face but also a variety of body regions, reflecting its growing popularity as a minimally invasive, natural-looking solution for diverse patient groups including men and millennials. PLLA works by restoring lost volume and gradually stimulating collagen production, which improves skin quality and contour over time. The product’s effectiveness and safety are supported by clinical research, with most patients reporting satisfaction. Although differences in PLLA formulations may influence outcomes, direct comparative studies are still lacking. This article provides an updated overview of PLLA’s physicochemical properties, mechanism of action, and clinical uses for both face and body, aiming to encourage its broader integration into cosmetic practice. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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