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16 pages, 18858 KB

Open AccessArticle

Direct Contact with CaHA Microspheres Drives ECM Stimulation In Vitro

by Yoana Dimitrova, Cleiton Kunzler, Kristina Riegel, Daniela Schäfer, Christina Wollenburg, Thomas Hengl and Christian Hartmann

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030156 - 18 Jun 2026

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Abstract

Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression [...] Read more.

Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression of extracellular matrix (ECM) components. To this end, human dermal fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of CaHA microspheres. Cell migration, cell–microsphere interaction, and CaHA dose-dependent effects on the expression of ECM proteins were examined using microscopy, mRNA and protein expression analysis. Our results indicated that fibroblasts established direct and close contact to CaHA microspheres. This interaction was associated with a time- and dose-dependent increase in ECM protein expression, including collagen-1, emilin-1, elastin, fibulin-5, fibronectin, and the proteoglycans—lumican and versican. These observations indicate that direct contact between fibroblasts and CaHA microspheres promotes ECM protein expression, suggesting a role for this interaction in supporting skin regeneration and counteracting age-related changes, potentially augmented in vivo by immunomodulatory effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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10 pages, 2827 KB

Open AccessCommunication

Potato Peel Extract Attenuates the Reduction in Type I Collagen in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast Cells Induced by Oxidative Stress

by Mari Suto, Hirofumi Masutomi and Katsuyuki Ishihara

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 134; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030134 - 28 May 2026

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Abstract

Oxidative stress contributes to skin aging. Potato peels contain various functional components, and potato peel extract (PPE) promotes type I collagen synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). In this study, we investigated the effects of PPE under oxidative stress conditions. NHDFs were [...] Read more.

Oxidative stress contributes to skin aging. Potato peels contain various functional components, and potato peel extract (PPE) promotes type I collagen synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). In this study, we investigated the effects of PPE under oxidative stress conditions. NHDFs were exposed to hydrogen peroxide, followed by treatment with PPE prepared by ethanol extraction of potato peel residues. Exposure to hydrogen peroxide reduced type I collagen secretion in NHDF. However, this reduction was suppressed by the addition of PPE. The expression level of the type I collagen gene, COL1A2, showed a tendency to improve with PPE treatment. The promotion of collagen synthesis by PPE appears to involve the TGFBR2, ERK, and Akt signaling pathways. PPE also reduced the increased production of MMP-1 induced by hydrogen peroxide exposure and suppressed the upregulation of AP-1, a transcription factor upstream of MMP-1. While PPE exhibited antioxidant activity at high concentrations, it did not reduce intracellular ROS levels at the concentrations used for cell treatment. These findings suggest that PPE suppresses the reduction in collagen levels under oxidative stress conditions by promoting type I collagen synthesis and modulating MMP-1/AP-1/TIMP-1-related pathways, suggesting decreased collagen breakdown under oxidative stress conditions. PPE may serve as a potential material for maintaining collagen levels. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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24 pages, 22474 KB

Open AccessArticle

Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. As a New Raw Material for Natural Hair Coloration: Discovering the Dyeing Potential of Chalcones

by Jule Marie Sauler, Volkmar Vill and Fabian Straske

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 127; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030127 - 20 May 2026

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Abstract

This study presents the development of a natural hair dye based on Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. plant extract with and without subsequent mordanting. The dye molecules behind the color development have been investigated to gain better understanding of the relationship between flavonoid structure and [...] Read more.

This study presents the development of a natural hair dye based on Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. plant extract with and without subsequent mordanting. The dye molecules behind the color development have been investigated to gain better understanding of the relationship between flavonoid structure and color on hair. Yak hair was dyed under different conditions and wash fastness tests were carried out to evaluate the performance of the new hair dye. Analysis of Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. plant extract was performed to assess the chemical constitution of hair dye. Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. extract solely led to yellow colors (as represented within L*a*b* color space: L* = 65.5; a* = 0.7; b* = 46.6), whereas the treatment combined with ferrous lactate led to dark brown colors (L* = 26.4; a* = 2.3; b* = 10.0). Wash fastness demonstrated a very good color stability with a maximum loss in color intensity of ΔE = 12.4 after 24 hair washes. Dyeing experiments using the most abundant flavonoids marein, flavanomarein, okanin, and isookanin gave insight into the responsible flavonoids for color outcome. In combination with ferrous lactate, chalcones led to brown colors and flavanones to gray colors. The chalcone okanin presented itself as the most powerful dye, leading to intense colors in combination with ferrous lactate (ΔE = 56.6), at low dye concentrations of 0.1 mg mL⁻¹. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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24 pages, 7270 KB

Open AccessArticle

Novel Vegan Exosome-like Biomimetic Vesicles for Skin and Hair Follicle Protection and Rejuvenation: Structural and Functional Characterization and Placebo-Controlled Clinical Efficacy Studies

by Noemí García-Delgado, Alexandre Lapeyre and Jordi Ayats

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030120 - 13 May 2026

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Abstract

Exosomes are revolutionizing skincare as natural messengers for cell communication, yet their transition into cosmetics is often limited by the ethical and regulatory hurdles of their animal or human sourcing. This study describes the development and validation of vegan exosome-like biomimetic vesicles (EBVs) [...] Read more.

Exosomes are revolutionizing skincare as natural messengers for cell communication, yet their transition into cosmetics is often limited by the ethical and regulatory hurdles of their animal or human sourcing. This study describes the development and validation of vegan exosome-like biomimetic vesicles (EBVs) generated from the microalgae Chlamydomonas reinhardtii that reproduce the structural and functional logic of mammalian exosomes. Their structural biomimetism was confirmed through physical, lipidomic, and proteomic characterizations, revealing bilamellar vesicles (average diameter ~160 nm) containing 109 membrane lipids and 1369 proteins. Their functional biomimetism was assessed via 3′ mRNA sequencing, which showed that the EBVs induced transcriptional responses in human fibroblasts functionally analogous to human-derived exosomes in matrix-remodeling and anti-aging pathways. In vitro, the EBVs showed a 166.7% higher dermal delivery bias than standard liposomes and accelerated wound healing. Ex vivo, 2% EBVs protected skin explants against UV-A stress, showing 92% protective efficacy for excessive melanin production upon oxidative stress. Furthermore, the EBVs supported hair follicle anagen markers and follicle stem cell metabolism, significantly upregulating SOX9 (p = 0.0022). A 56-day placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−12.2%), elasticity (+4.9%), and radiance (+20.0%). These results position EBVs as a scalable, high-performance alternative for next-generation anti-aging cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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13 pages, 2521 KB

Open AccessArticle

Assessing the Impact on Barrier Function of Black Soldier Fly Larvae Lipids-Based Nanoparticles

by Cíntia Almeida, Margarida Gingado, Carolina Santos, Carla Turiel, Thalita Cândido, Ana Júlio, Catarina Pereira-Leite and Catarina Rosado

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030112 - 5 May 2026

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Abstract

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin [...] Read more.

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin health applications, particularly for restoring barrier function. Following previous work on the development of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporating BSFL lipid extract, the present study focused on the mechanistic evaluation of the occlusive, moisturizing and skin reinforcement potential of these nanoformulations (NFs), by exploring both in vitro and in vivo models. The compatibility assays showed no adverse effects after patch testing on healthy or atopic individuals, nor alterations on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or redness. In vitro studies confirmed the ability of these NFs to form an occlusive lipid film, hampering moisture loss, with 39% reduction of water loss compared to the control. Efficacy assays in human volunteers revealed a statistically significant improvement in epidermal conditions at treated sites, evidenced by enhanced SC hydration. The plastic occlusion stress test (POST) revealed a trend toward a reduced evaporation half-life, suggesting a modulation of the epidermal water dynamics, although the effect did not reach statistical significance. Overall, BSFL-based lipid nanoparticles emerge as emollient agents with broad potential for incorporation into next-generation cosmetic and pharmaceutical products for the management of AD. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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20 pages, 3934 KB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Development of a Shampoo with Dark Semi-Permanent Dyes for Gradual Gray Hair Coverage

by Erika Paredes-Sulca, Felix Castillo-Morales, Adil Barrientos-Amau, Lucy Quispe-Rodriguez, Alison Zanabria-Santos, Dula Balbin-Inga, Gabriela Solano-Canchaya, Norma Ramos-Cevallos, Américo Castro-Luna and Bertran Santiago-Trujillo

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030106 - 28 Apr 2026

Viewed by 1063

Abstract

Canities results from a progressive decline in melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis and is commonly associated with aesthetic concerns that motivate the use of cosmetic products for hair color correction. Shampoo, due to its frequent use, represents a suitable vehicle for the gradual [...] Read more.

Canities results from a progressive decline in melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis and is commonly associated with aesthetic concerns that motivate the use of cosmetic products for hair color correction. Shampoo, due to its frequent use, represents a suitable vehicle for the gradual deposition of pigments on the hair fiber. This study aimed to design and develop a shampoo containing dark synthetic semi-permanent dyes for the gradual coverage of gray hair. Four shampoo formulations were developed and evaluated through in vitro tests using bleached hair tresses to assess color deposition and performance. The selected formulation was subsequently subjected to accelerated stability studies and color sustainability evaluation. The results showed that the formulation maintained organoleptic, physicochemical, microbiological, and functional stability. Color sustainability assays indicated that the gray–black coloration persisted on hair tresses containing approximately 90% canities after eight washing cycles. The formulation incorporating the semi-permanent dyes Basic Blue 124, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, and Basic Red 51 achieved a gradual gray–black tonal effect. In conclusion, the developed shampoo demonstrated stability and effectiveness for the gradual cosmetic coverage of gray hair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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16 pages, 2599 KB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Antioxidant Stability and Infrared Characterization of a Cosmetic Formulation with Peruvian Bioactive Compounds

by Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco, Luciana De La Fuente-Carmelino, Patricia Lozada and Ana María Muñoz

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020057 - 3 Mar 2026

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Abstract

This study assessed the structural stability and in vitro antioxidant capacity of a cosmetic formulation incorporating sangre de grado extract (Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.), aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi ( [...] Read more.

This study assessed the structural stability and in vitro antioxidant capacity of a cosmetic formulation incorporating sangre de grado extract (Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.), aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.), sourced from Peruvian biodiversity. Structural characterization was conducted using Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR) on the formulation at the initial time point (ASC T0) and after six months under accelerated stability conditions (ASC T6). Characteristic absorption bands corresponding to carbonyl, ether, and hydroxyl functional groups were observed, confirming the structural integrity of the lipid–polymeric components within the emulsifying system. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS assays, with IC₅₀ values comparable to those of a commercially available cream. In the DPPH assay, ASC T6 exhibited IC₅₀ of 5744.8571 μg/mL, comparable to a commercial formulation (5641.1585 μg/mL). In the ABTS assay, ASC T0 demonstrated antioxidant activity statistically equivalent (p > 0.05) to that of the commercial cream, with IC₅₀ values of 410.2358 and 420.2202 μg/mL, respectively. In conclusion, the preservation of antioxidant activity is attributed to the structural integrity of the formulated system, which stabilized and retained synergistic interactions of the antioxidants. Future studies should explore the incorporation of additional antioxidants and include in vivo instrumental assessments of stability and efficacy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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12 pages, 1025 KB

Open AccessArticle

Dermal Absorption and Quantitative Analysis of Amaranth, a Cosmetic Colorant, in Rat Skin Using an In Vitro Franz Diffusion Model

by Jung Dae Lee, Hyang Yeon Kim, Gi-Wook Hwang and Kyu-Bong Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020050 - 25 Feb 2026

Viewed by 1052

Abstract

Amaranth (R2) is used as a color additive in cosmetics. In Korea, R2 is permitted only as a cosmetic colorant and is prohibited in products intended for infants and children under 13 years of age; in Europe, it is regulated solely as a [...] Read more.

Amaranth (R2) is used as a color additive in cosmetics. In Korea, R2 is permitted only as a cosmetic colorant and is prohibited in products intended for infants and children under 13 years of age; in Europe, it is regulated solely as a cosmetic colorant rather than a hair dye ingredient. Despite its regulatory relevance, dermal absorption data for R2 are lacking. In this study, percutaneous absorption of R2 was evaluated using the Franz diffusion method with excised rat dorsal skin. Quantitative analysis of R2 was developed and validated using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in accordance with Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety guidelines, demonstrating acceptable linearity (r² = 0.9996–0.9999), accuracy (95.5–104.4%), and precision (0.3–5.8%). Two formulations (skin lotion and cream), each containing 1% R2, were applied at 113 mg/cm² for 24 h. Dermal absorption was assessed by analyzing receptor fluid, skin wash, stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis. Total dermal absorption of R2 was 3.4 ± 2.7% for the lotion and 0% for the cream, corresponding to in vitro skin permeabilities of 34.5 ± 27.0 μg/cm² and 0 μg/cm², respectively. Total recovery ranged from 80.3 ± 8.2% to 91.4 ± 19.4%. These results provide essential data for cosmetic risk assessment of R2. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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11 pages, 1526 KB

Open AccessArticle

Therapeutic Potential of Ozonized Glycerin in Skin Inflammation and Repair

by John Ivarsson, Anna Guiotto, Giulia Trinchera, Alessandra Pecorelli, Gotaro Shiota and Giuseppe Valacchi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010042 - 12 Feb 2026

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Abstract

Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread [...] Read more.

Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread use in cosmetics, enhancing the functional capacities of glycerin provides a promising method to improve the effectiveness of numerous cosmetics. Ozonized glycerin has emerged as a novel technology able to enhance glycerin’s effectiveness with reported anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiviral effects. This approach leverages ozone stabilization in glycerin for improved stability and prolonged release to the skin. Clinical application of ozonized glycerin has exhibited lightening of aging spots through promoting skin turnover. The objective of this study was to evaluate the enhanced properties of glycerin when ozonized in terms of skin repair and inflammation. Through topical pretreatment of epidermal 3D wound healing models (13 days) and ex vivo human skin biopsies (4 days), ozonized glycerin was able to improve wound closure, enhance skin barrier and extracellular matrix protein expression, and reduce inflammation. Notably, ozonized glycerin enhanced wound closure by 6.8% compared to glycerin, as well as significantly protecting against LPS-induced elastin degradation (67.7% difference from LPS). These data provide evidence for the use of ozonized glycerin as a new technology to prevent and diminish skin inflammation and improve wound repair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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Review

Jump to: Research

24 pages, 2266 KB

Open AccessReview

Hurdles in Melasma Management: An AI-Assisted Review of Placebo- and Hydroquinone-Controlled Clinical Studies (2014–2024)

by Alexandra M. Maldonado López and Ivan Domicio da Silva Souza

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030151 - 12 Jun 2026

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Abstract

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation disorder that significantly impacts quality of life. Given the persistent challenges in melasma management, there is a need to evaluate therapies that may offer long-term treatment. This descriptive review analyzes interventional clinical studies involving melasma patients and placebo [...] Read more.

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation disorder that significantly impacts quality of life. Given the persistent challenges in melasma management, there is a need to evaluate therapies that may offer long-term treatment. This descriptive review analyzes interventional clinical studies involving melasma patients and placebo or hydroquinone (HQ) comparators published between 2014 and 2024. Two human authors screened studies and extracted data, with artificial intelligence used as a human-supervised support tool for screening assistance, data extraction, and discussion synthesis. Study limitations were evaluated descriptively. Treatments were grouped into five categories: HQ-based Standard Treatments, Isolated Molecules as Depigmenting Therapies, Botanical and Antioxidant-Based Therapies, Regenerative and Microenvironment-Modulating Therapies, and Procedure-Assisted and Combination Treatments. HQ remained a key benchmark, although recurrence and tolerability limitations were frequently observed. Several non-HQ or adjunctive approaches demonstrated benefit when administered orally, topically, intradermally, or via iontophoresis. Botanical antioxidants, synbiotics, epidermal growth factor, and platelet-rich plasma also showed promising efficacy. Nevertheless, the evidence base was constrained by small sample sizes, heterogeneous comparators, inconsistent endpoints, mixed objective and subjective assessments, and variable follow-up durations, which prevented meta-analysis. Research on melasma treatment is growing worldwide, with several promising non-HQ and adjunctive strategies emerging. However, standardization of outcomes, comparator selection, and longer follow-up periods is needed to clarify efficacy, tolerability, and relapse prevention throughout diverse skin tones. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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12 pages, 965 KB

Open AccessReview

Poly-L-lactic Acid (Sculptra^®): A Regenerative Aesthetic Treatment

by Sabrina G. Fabi, Alessandra Haddad, Luiz Avelar, Michael Somenek, Katie Beleznay, Steven Dayan, Kathryn Taylor-Barnes, Jeff Huang, Alan D. Widgerow, Matthew Meckfessel and Daniel Bråsäter

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030103 - 27 Apr 2026

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Abstract

Regenerative medicine aims to restore the structure and function for improved tissue health; reduced tissue health can arise from causes such as aging, which results in the ongoing degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin. Replacement of a single biological component [...] Read more.

Regenerative medicine aims to restore the structure and function for improved tissue health; reduced tissue health can arise from causes such as aging, which results in the ongoing degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin. Replacement of a single biological component is not sufficient for an esthetic treatment to be described as regenerative; it is the relative amounts, ratios, types and organization of stimulated components that are important in a treatment’s regenerative potential. Regenerative aesthetics aims to recapture the youthful structure and function of tissue by exploiting the body’s own systems. Poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA-SCA; Sculptra^®), an injectable, biodegradable, non-permanent biostimulator, induces a combination of mechanotransductional/mechanical stimulation and foreign body reaction response and promotes ECM remodeling via the production of collagen through the upregulation of cytokines interleukin-1b and CXCL6, elastin, proteoglycans and multiadhesive glycoproteins. In addition, PLLA-SCA stimulates adipocyte rejuvenation/adipogenesis and increases the thickness of the dermis and adipose layers. Hence, PLLA-SCA stimulates endogenous pathways, and the array of biostimulatory effects should not be considered individually but as interlinked with the overall goal of improvement in skin health. These effects manifest clinically as long-term improvements in the mechanical properties of the skin, the restoration of volume and elasticity, improvements in skin quality and thickness, and dermal remodeling. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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20 pages, 6256 KB

Open AccessReview

Neurocosmetics and the Skin–Brain Axis from a Psychological and Psychiatric Standpoint

by Giuseppe Marano, Oksana Di Giacomi, Marco Lanzetta, Camilla Scialpi, Antonio Sottile, Gianandrea Traversi, Osvaldo Mazza, Claudia d’Abate, Eleonora Gaetani and Marianna Mazza

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030102 - 24 Apr 2026

Viewed by 1532

Abstract

The skin–brain axis constitutes a complex, bidirectional network integrating cutaneous sensory, immune, and neuroendocrine systems with central neural circuits involved in emotion regulation, stress responsivity, and social cognition. Advances in psychodermatology and cosmetic science have progressively extended this framework to the emerging field [...] Read more.

The skin–brain axis constitutes a complex, bidirectional network integrating cutaneous sensory, immune, and neuroendocrine systems with central neural circuits involved in emotion regulation, stress responsivity, and social cognition. Advances in psychodermatology and cosmetic science have progressively extended this framework to the emerging field of neurocosmetics, which explores how topical formulations, sensorial properties, and cutaneous neuromodulators may influence psychological well-being, affective states, and perceived stress. The aim of this narrative review is to synthesize current evidence on the biological foundations of the skin–brain axis and to critically examine the implications of these mechanisms for neurocosmetic interventions from a psychological and psychiatric perspective. It describes the biological substrates underlying skin–brain communication, including the cutaneous hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis, neuropeptides, neurotrophins, transient receptor potential channels, and endocannabinoid signaling, and examines how these pathways are targeted by neurocosmetic interventions. Particular attention is devoted to neuroactive compounds, such as peptides, cannabinoids, botanicals, and aromatherapeutic molecules, as well as to sensorial strategies involving texture, temperature, and olfactory cues, which may modulate mood, anxiety, and self-perception through peripheral mechanisms. From a psychological and psychiatric perspective, the review discusses the intersection between stress-related skin conditions, body image disturbances, and emotional dysregulation, highlighting how cosmetic practices may influence subjective well-being beyond purely aesthetic outcomes. Methodological limitations of the existing literature, including the heterogeneity of study designs and outcome measures, as well as ethical considerations related to mood- and stress-related claims in cosmetic products, are critically examined. Finally, future research directions are outlined, and a translational framework is proposed to integrate dermatology, neuroscience, and mental health within next-generation cosmetic science. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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14 pages, 1339 KB

Open AccessReview

A Reappraisal of Poly-l-Lactic Acid in Facial and Body Aesthetic Indications

by Delia Colombo and Sabrina Gronchi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020054 - 27 Feb 2026

Viewed by 2573

Abstract

Poly-l-Lactic acid (PLLA) is a synthetic, absorbable injectable implant widely used in both facial and body cosmetic applications. Originally approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating facial lipoatrophy in Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) patients, PLLA is now also [...] Read more.

Poly-l-Lactic acid (PLLA) is a synthetic, absorbable injectable implant widely used in both facial and body cosmetic applications. Originally approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating facial lipoatrophy in Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV) patients, PLLA is now also indicated for correcting facial wrinkles, and its use has been more recently evaluated to enhance body areas such as the cheeks, hands, neck, thighs, and gluteal region. This narrative review specifically examines PLLA’s versatility in rejuvenating not only the face but also a variety of body regions, reflecting its growing popularity as a minimally invasive, natural-looking solution for diverse patient groups including men and millennials. PLLA works by restoring lost volume and gradually stimulating collagen production, which improves skin quality and contour over time. The product’s effectiveness and safety are supported by clinical research, with most patients reporting satisfaction. Although differences in PLLA formulations may influence outcomes, direct comparative studies are still lacking. This article provides an updated overview of PLLA’s physicochemical properties, mechanism of action, and clinical uses for both face and body, aiming to encourage its broader integration into cosmetic practice. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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