The study investigates cross-shore outer sand bar dynamics in an open-coast non-tidal beach at the Bulgarian Black Sea due to wave climate. On seasonal to short-term (1–2 years) time scale, monthly field measurements of the outer bar profiles were re...
Barrier reefs dissipate most incoming wind-generated waves and, as a consequence, regulate the morphodynamics of its inbounded shorelines. The coastal protective capacity of reefs may nevertheless be compromised by climate change effects, such as ree...
For coastal engineering studies and the efficient design of ports and harbors, reliable information concerning wave conditions in nearshore and coastal sites is needed. In the absence of long-term wave data at the site of interest, this becomes possi...
Wave dynamics contribute significantly to coastal hazards and were thus investigated at Vougot Beach by simulating both historical and projected future waves considering climate change impacts. The historical period included a major storm event. This...
Nearshore nourishments are constructed for shoreline protection from waves, to provide sediment nourishment to the beach profile, and to beneficially use dredged sediment from navigation channel maintenance. However, it is poorly understood how place...
The Arctic is greatly affected by climate change. Increasing air temperatures drive permafrost thaw and an increase in coastal erosion and river discharge. This results in a greater input of sediment and organic matter into nearshore waters, impactin...
Future nearshore wave energy converter (WEC) arrays will influence coastal wave and sediment dynamics, yet there are limited numerical methodologies to quantify their possible impacts. A novel coupled WEC-Wave numerical method was developed to quanti...
This paper presents the estimation of the wave energy potential around the Aegadian islands (Italy), carried out on the basis of high resolution wave hindcast. This reanalysis was developed employing Weather Research and Forecast (WRF) and WAVEWATCH...
Nearshore marine systems provide multiple economic and ecological services to human communities. Several studies addressing the climate change stressors and the inappropriate use of the sea indicate a decline of coastal areas. An extensive monitoring...
The aim of the present work is to assess the wind and wave climate in the Black Sea while considering various data sources. A special attention is given to the areas with higher navigation traffic. Thus, the results are analyzed for the sites located...
This paper assesses the impact of a farm of wave energy converters on a nearby offshore aquaculture installation and on the nearshore dynamics. The coastal area targeted is Aguçadoura, located in the north of Portugal, where the world’s...
This study aims to investigate the hydrodynamic-morphological interactions on a microtidal intermediate-dissipative beach under low to moderate wave energy conditions using field measurements during two climatic seasons. The separate contributions of...
In the presented work, design conditions for breakwaters were derived from offshore climate reanalysis data (ERA5), which were downscaled to the nearshore by two numerical approaches, i.e., SwanOne and Delft3D, for different average and extreme wave...
This study aimed to evaluate how tidal modulation influences breaking waves on a macrotidal beach along the Amazonian coast under varying climatic conditions. The study utilized medium-term data (2006–2018) from national and international insti...
This study quantifies the climate change (CC)-driven variations in wave characteristics and the resulting variations in potential longshore sediment transport rate along the ~2000 km mainland coast of Vietnam. Wind fields derived from global circulat...
The most relevant patterns of the wave energy propagation in the western side of the Black Sea were assessed in the present work. The emphasis was put on the western side because this is also the most energetic part of the Black Sea. The assessments...
Recently, the coastal zone in Vietnam has experienced more intensive sea attacks due to severe typhoons, climate change, and humsection an activities. Sea level rise has been recorded all along the coast. Moreover, sand exploitation and engineering m...
Hindcasted wind and wave data, available on a coarse resolution global grid (Copernicus ERA5 dataset), are downscaled by means of the numerical model SWAN (simulating waves in the nearshore) to produce time series of wave conditions at a high resolut...
The wave energy resources in the Indian Ocean can be considered as a potential alternative to fossil fuels. However, the wave energy resources are subject to short-term fluctuations and long-term changes due to climate change. Hence, considering sust...
Wave-generated power has potential as a valuable coastal resource, but the wave climate needs to be mapped for feasibility before wave energy converters are installed. Numerical models are used for wave resource assessments to quantify the amount of...
In process-based numerical models, reducing the amount of input parameters, known as input reduction (IR), is often required to reduce the computational effort of these models and to enable long-term, ensemble predictions. Currently, a comprehensive...
This study investigates the impacts of global climate change on the future wave power potential, taking Sri Lanka as a case study from the northern Indian Ocean. The geographical location of Sri Lanka, which receives long-distance swell waves generat...
Various models have recently been developed to describe Arctic coastal erosion. Current process-based models simulate multiple physical processes and combine them interactively to resemble the unique mechanism of Arctic coastal erosion. One limitatio...
Climate wave data, derived from significant wave height (SWH) altimetry, provide accurate information towards nearshore and coastal areas. Their use is crucial to enhance our capabilities of observing, understanding, and forecasting storm waves, even...
Modelling investigations into the local changes in the shoreline resulting from enhanced atmospheric greenhouse gas concentrations and global climate change are important for supporting the planning of coastal mitigation measures. Analysis of Global...
The objective of this paper was to characterize swell conditions in the coastal zone of the South Shetland Islands, where our preliminary analyses evaluated potential locations for the Colombian scientific station. The Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWA...
Long-term observations of nearshore bar behaviour are a vital component of coastal monitoring, management, and prediction. Optical satellite remote sensing enables the possibility of such observations over large spatial areas, but its full potential...
The characterization of future wave-storms and their relationship to large-scale climate can provide useful information for environmental or urban planning at coastal areas. A hybrid methodology (process-based and statistical) was used to characteriz...
In the present work, the impact of climate change on coastal flooding is investigated through a set of interoperable models developed by the authors, following a modular modelling approach and adapting the modelling sequence to two separate objective...
In the present work the Black Sea wave climate is assessed using a total of 38 years of data (1979–2016). As a first step, the long-term variations of the main wave parameters were evaluated using data provided by the European Center for Medium-Range...
The Alburquerque Cay Islands belong to a group of western Caribbean atolls, with a barrier reef of coral that is more than 8 km in diameter. An understanding of the reef ocean dynamics and its direct relationship to the functioning of the ecosystem i...
Beach erosion and shoreline dynamics are strongly affected by alterations in nearshore wave intensity and energy, especially in the context of global climate change. However, existing works do not thoroughly study the evolution of the sandy coasts of...
The entrance in the Sulina channel in the Black Sea is the target area of this study. This represents the southern gate of the seventh Pan-European transport corridor, and it is usually subjected to high navigation traffic. The main objective of the...
This work presents the results of the numerical study implemented for the natural area of Lido di Spina, a touristic site along the Italian coast of the North Adriatic Sea, close to the mouth of River Reno. High-resolution simulations of nearshore dy...
Industry-specific tools for analyzing and optimizing the design of wave energy converters (WECs) and associated power systems are essential to advancing marine renewable energy. This study aims to quantify the influence of phase information on the de...
This paper constructs an optimal configuration assessment, in terms of the financial returns, of the Overtopping BReakwater for wave Energy Conversion (OBREC). This technology represents a hybrid wave energy harvester, totally embedded in traditional...
In June 2016, an unusual East Coast Low storm affected some 2000 km of the eastern seaboard of Australia bringing heavy rain, strong winds and powerful wave conditions. While wave heights offshore of Sydney were not exceptional, nearshore wave condit...
The objective of the present work is to perform an evaluation of the performance provided by various technologies for wave energy conversion in the Portuguese continental coastal environment. The wave climate in the target area is first analyzed usin...
Joint time series of wave height, period and direction are essential input data to computational models which are used to simulate diachronic beach evolution in coastal engineering. However, it is often impractical to collect a large amount of the re...
Measurements of significant wave height from satellite altimeter missions are finding increasing application in investigations of wave climate, sea state variability and trends, in particular as the means to mitigate the general sparsity of in situ m...
A detailed climatology of ocean wind waves in the South Atlantic Ocean, based on ERA-5 reanalysis and in a higher-resolution wave hindcast (ERA-5H), both developed by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts, is presented. The higher re...
High-resolution, reliable global atmospheric and oceanic numerical models can represent a key factor in designing a coastal intervention. At the present, two main centers have the capabilities to produce them: the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adm...
The transient acceleration of ocean currents, or internal waves, is hard to detect, because it does not have climate variability or regular manifestation in the sea. This fluctuation affects not only short-term oceanographic processes but also the hy...
The relationship between lateral erosion of salt marshes and wind waves is studied in Hog Island Bay, Virginia USA, with high-resolution field measurements and aerial photographs. Marsh retreat is compared to wave climate calculated in the bay using...
In this study, the numerical wave model Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN), which resolves nearshore wave processes, and a hydrodynamic model, the Finite-Volume Community Ocean Model (FVCOM), were coupled to simulate waves and currents during Typhoon...
This research was carried out in the framework of the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) program of the French National Centre of Space Studies (CNES). In the context of global climate change, increases in frequency and intensity of extreme ev...
Two-dimensional models of large spatial domain including Cua Lo and Cua Hoi estuaries in Nghe An province, Vietnam, were established, calibrated, and verified with the observed data of tidal level, wave height, wave period, wave direction, and suspen...
Here, accessibility to near-shore and offshore marine sites is evaluated based on wave and ice conditions. High-resolution third-generation wave model results are used to examine the operation and maintenance conditions for renewable energy sources w...
As climate change is of global concern, the electric generation through fossil fuel is progressively shifted to renewable energies. Among the renewables, the most common solar and wind, the wave energy stands for its high-power density. Studies about...
Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) on a structured grid over the Louisiana shelf in the northern Gulf of Mexico is used to evaluate the performance of three different classes of formulations for quantifying wind input and whitecapping dissipation. The...
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