Cosmetics, Volume 12, Issue 3 (June 2025) – 43 articles

The first part of the study shows that four commercial sun protection SPF 50 products provide statistically significant (all p < 0.021) protection by reducing the amount of UV-induced mitochondrial (mtDNA) damage in human dermal fibroblast skin cells (i.e., 320% protection). mtDNA damage has been shown to be an effective and reliable biomarker of skin damage and plays a key role in the ageing process. The second part of the study investigates a sub-set, namely two of the four commercial sun protection products. Both products significantly protect (both p < 0.014) against the longer wavelength blue light induced decrease in a different biomarker, namely the viability of human dermal fibroblast skin cells. Full article

Facial aging is a multifactorial and stratified biological process characterized by progressive morphological and biochemical alterations affecting both cutaneous (Layer I) and subcutaneous (Layer II) tissues. These age-related changes manifest clinically as volume depletion, tissue ptosis, and a decline in overall skin quality. In response to these phenomena, thread lifting techniques have evolved significantly—from simple mechanical suspension methods to sophisticated bioactive platforms. Contemporary threads now incorporate biocompatible polymers and hyaluronic acid (HA), aiming not only to reposition soft tissues but also to promote dermal regeneration. This review provides a comprehensive classification and critical assessment of thread lifting materials, focusing on their chemical composition, mechanical performance, degradation kinetics, and biostimulatory potential. Particular emphasis has been given to the surface integration of HA into monofilament threads, especially with the emergence of advanced delivery systems such as NAMICA, which facilitate sustained HA release. Advanced thread materials, especially those fabricated from poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) [P(LA/CL)], demonstrate both tensile support and regenerative efficacy. Emerging HA-covered threads exhibit synergistic bioactivity, stimulating skin remodeling. NAMICA technology represents an advancement in the field, in which HA is encapsulated within biodegradable polymer fibers to enable gradual release and enhanced dermal integration. Nonetheless, well-designed human studies are still needed to substantiate its therapeutic efficacy. Consequently, the paradigm of thread lifting is shifting from purely mechanical interventions toward biologically active systems that promote comprehensive ECM regeneration. The integration of HA into resorbable threads, especially when combined with sustained-release technologies, represents a meaningful innovation in aesthetic dermatology, meriting further preclinical and clinical evaluation. Full article

Garlic is a spice widely used worldwide, but ingestion of garlic can cause unpleasant breath odor that can be offensive in interpersonal interactions. Among several sulfur-containing components of garlic, allyl methyl sulfide is considered the primary causative agent of unpleasant garlic breath and body odor. We discovered that hop cone powder exhibits potent deodorizing activity against allyl methyl sulfide. Oxidation products of the hop bitter acids humulinone and hulupone were detected in a partially purified sample of hop cone powder. Oxidation products of the α-acids cohumulinone and n-humulinone showed approximately 10- and 15-fold stronger deodorizing activity than the parent α-acids, respectively. The deodorizing activity of oxidation products of β-acids was comparable to that of n-humulinone. It is presumed that the oxidation products of hop powder play an important role in the strong deodorizing activity of hop cone powder against allyl methyl sulfide. Full article

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high content of carotenoids, phenolics, and antioxidants, which are known for their anti-aging, photoprotective, and skin-rejuvenating properties. Despite the growing interest in rosehip oil, limited studies have investigated its efficacy on human skin using advanced imaging technologies. This study aims to fill this gap by evaluating the efficacy of cold-pressed Rosa canina seed oil on facial skin characteristics, specifically wrinkles, ultraviolet (UV) spot reduction, and erythema mitigation, using imaging technologies (the VISIA analysis system). Seed oil pressed from R. canina collected from the Băișoara area of Cluj County has been selected for this study due to its high carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents. The oil has also been analyzed for the content of individual carotenoids (i.e., lutein, lycopene, β Carotene, and zeaxanthin) using HPLC-DAD (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography—Diode Array Detector), along with lutein and zeaxanthin esters and diesters. After the preliminary screening of multiple Rosa species for carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents, the R. canina sample with the highest therapeutic potential was selected. A cohort of 27 volunteers (aged 30–65) underwent a five-week treatment protocol, wherein three drops of the selected rosehip oil were topically applied to the face daily. The VISIA imaging was conducted before and after the treatment to evaluate changes in skin parameters, including the wrinkle depth, UV-induced spots, porphyrins, and texture. Regarding the bioactivities, rosehip oil showed a significant total carotenoids content (28.398 μg/mL), with the highest levels in the case of the β-carotene (4.49 μg/mL), lutein (4.33 μg/mL), and zexanthin (10.88 μg/mL) contents. Results indicated a significant reduction in mean wrinkle scores across several age groups, with notable improvements in individuals with deeper baseline wrinkles. UV spots also showed visible declines, suggesting ideal photoprotective and anti-pigmentary effects attributable to the oil’s high vitamin A and carotenoid content. Porphyrin levels, often correlated with bacterial activity, decreased in most subjects, hinting at an additional antimicrobial or microbiome-modulatory property. However, skin responses varied, possibly due to individual differences in skin sensitivity, environmental factors, or compliance with sun protection. Overall, the topical application of R. canina oil appeared to improve the facial skin quality, reduce the appearance of age-related markers, and support skin health. These findings reinforce the potential use of rosehip oil in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further long-term, large-scale studies are warranted to refine dosing regimens, investigate mechanisms of action, and explore synergistic effects with other bioactive compounds. Full article

The growing demand for natural anti-aging ingredients necessitates scientific validation of traditional cosmetic materials. Multani Mitti (MM), a clay widely used in South Asian traditional skincare, lacks comprehensive chemical and biological characterization. This study employed a multi-analytical approach to investigate MM’s anti-aging potential through chemical analysis, enzyme inhibition studies, and in silico evaluations. Five commercial MM samples were pooled and analyzed using instrumental neutron activation analysis (INAA) and Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS). INAA revealed silicon as the predominant inorganic constituent (169.3742 mg/g), while GC-MS identified 13 bioactive compounds, with Beta-sitosterol (15.45% area), Docosanamide (12.36% area), and Cyclohexasiloxane (9.80% area) being the most abundant. MM demonstrated significant enzyme inhibition against key aging-related enzymes, with notably strong effects on hyaluronidase (IC₅₀: 18 μg/mL) and tyrosinase (IC₅₀: 27 μg/mL), outperforming standard inhibitors. The antioxidant activity showed moderate effectiveness (IC₅₀: 31.938 μg/mL) compared to ascorbic acid (IC₅₀: 8.5 μg/mL). Molecular docking studies of identified compounds against hyaluronidase (PDB: 1FCV) and tyrosinase (PDB: 3NQ1) revealed Beta-sitosterol and Benzyl-piperazine-carboxamide as the most promising candidates, showing strong binding affinities (−8.5 and −8.6 kcal/mol, respectively) and favorable ADMET profiles. This comprehensive characterization provides the first scientific evidence supporting MM’s traditional use in skincare and identifies specific compounds that may contribute to its anti-aging properties, warranting further investigation for modern cosmetic applications. Full article

Chamomile essential oils (EOs) are widely used in cosmetics for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Bulgaria, with its long-standing tradition in EO production, provides an ideal setting to examine the influence of species and cultivation practices on oil quality. This study compares the chemical composition and biological activity of EOs from German chamomile (Matricaria recutita L.) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile L.), sourced from two major Bulgarian producers—Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. and Kateko Ltd. (Plovdiv, Bulgaria). Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) profiling revealed species- and producer-dependent differences. German chamomile EOs were rich in β-farnesene, chamazulene, and bisabolol oxides, whereas Roman chamomile EOs were dominated by isobutyl angelate and related esters. Antioxidant activity, assessed via the ABTS assay, was higher in German chamomile EOs, especially from Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. The oils also showed photoprotective potential, with SPF values of 26–27 for German and 9–16 for Roman chamomile. Anti-inflammatory activity, evaluated by inhibition of albumin denaturation, was highest in Roman chamomile oils and comparable to that of prednisolone, while German chamomile also showed strong effects. Antimicrobial activity was generally low, with moderate effects observed only against Penicillium chrysogenum and Aspergillus flavus. These findings support the targeted use of chamomile EOs in cosmetics—German chamomile for antioxidant-rich, UV-protective, and microbiome-supportive care, and Roman chamomile for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and fragrance-enhancing applications. Full article

Salak peel extract has various biological properties befitting cosmeceutical applications; however, their practical uses are still limited due to their low water solubility and stability. Encapsulation technology was employed to alleviate these issues. In this work, we presented a simple method to prepare ethosome-encapsulated salak peel extract using green solvents (ethanol and water). For this purpose, we used 95% ethanol to extract salak peel and explored its activities. Results showed that, in addition to anti-oxidant, the extract also showed anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, and anti-bacterial (against S. aureus) activities. These activities indicate its potential uses in cosmeceutical applications. We further encapsulated the extract in ethosomes using a stirrer and green solvents for the preparation methods. The yielded ethosomes exhibited a size range of 120 to 205 nm, polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.15 to 0.25, and zeta potential of −35 to −60 mV depending on the amount of L-α-phosphatidylcholine used. The highest encapsulation efficiency was approximately 30%. The antiradical capacity and anti-inflammatory activities of salak peel extract were also found to be maintained after the encapsulation process. An in vitro biocompatibility study of the extract after encapsulation was also performed. The results not only indicated good biocompatibility, but also the potential skin-rejuvenating ability of salak peel ethosomes. A stability study was also performed, and the results suggested that these ethosomes were stable at different conditions. With further investigation, salak peel ethosomes, as presented here, can be suitable for cosmeceutical applications. Full article

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiations represents a significant risk factor and may lead to various skin disorders, premature aging, and an increased susceptibility to skin cancers. Recently, probiotics have emerged as promising candidates for fortifying the skin’s natural defences through their diverse mechanisms. The aim of the present work was exploring the potential of five heat-treated probiotics (Skinbac^TM, Probiotical Research S.r.l., Novara, Italy), as protective agents against UVA and UVB damages on human keratinocyte line (HaCaT) and human skin 3D model (Phenion^® Full-Thickness Skin Model, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Dusseldorf, Germany). The protective role toward artificially induced oxidative stress was evaluated by determining the residual viability after UV exposure and analyzing gene expression of markers involved in apoptosis (Tumor protein 53), inflammation/immunosuppression (Interleukin 6), oxidative stress (oxidative stress response enzyme heme oxygenase 1), investigated using quantitative real-time PCR. Additionally, we examined the protective effects of these strains, testing them on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) irradiated with UVC, specifically, evaluating the expression of tight junction proteins, including claudin 1, claudin 4, and occludin, by ELISA. The tested heat-treated probiotics effectively protected from UVA, UVB, and UVC damage on all end points analyzed, revealing their capacity to enhance barrier protection in cases of damage and their potential for innovative skincare strategies centered around probiotic-based formulations for enhanced protection against UV-induced skin damage. Full article

Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled design was applied to assess changes in pH following application of soap formulations. pH levels were measured in vivo using non-invasive instrumentation at baseline and 2, 15 and 30 min post-application in 41 adult volunteers. The results demonstrated a significant increase in skin pH immediately after exposure to both types of natural soap, with elevated values persisting for up to 30 min. These changes were associated with potential disruption of the skin’s acid mantle and reduced buffering capacity. The findings highlight the importance of pH considerations in the formulation and routine use of natural cleansers. Although natural soaps are often perceived as gentle alternatives, their alkalinity may transiently disturb the skin’s acid–base homeostasis, potentially leading to increased transepidermal water loss and barrier impairment. This study supports the need for reformulation strategies and consumer awareness regarding the physicochemical impact of cleansing agents on skin health. Full article

This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The innovative formulation of the cream includes ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide AP, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, and bacillus ferment, targeting the enhancement of skin hydration, barrier function, and structural integrity. In SLS-stimulated 3D skin models and clinical settings, the cream significantly improved the expression of key barrier proteins such as filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), while reducing inflammatory markers like IL-1α, TNF-α, and PGE2. Notably, the cream facilitated a significant increase in epidermal thickness and improved the dermal–epidermal junction index (DEJI), as observed through TPM, indicating profound skin repair and enhanced barrier functionality. Clinical trials further demonstrated the cream’s reparative effects, significantly reducing symptoms in participants with sensitive skin and post-intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment scenarios. This study highlights the utility of TPM as a groundbreaking tool in cosmetic dermatology, offering real-time analysis of the effects of skincare products on skin structure and function. Full article

This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate^® 80 with Beautyderm^® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along with the effect of increasing concentrations of the Sunhancer™ Eco SPF Booster, was thoroughly evaluated. Spectrophotometric methods were used to determine SPF, while texture analysis and rheological measurements assessed physical characteristics. Stability was evaluated using a centrifuge stress test, and sensory analysis was conducted on the top-performing formulation. The results indicated that the choice of emulsifier and booster concentration significantly influenced SPF values and stability. The influence of booster concentration on textural properties was most significant in formulations containing Beautyderm^®. Centrifuge testing revealed phase separation in certain formulations. Notably, the formulations that exhibited the greatest stability were those in which Beautyderm^® was combined with either Polysorbate^® or Span^®. Following the stability test results, the cream formulation containing Beautyderm^® and Polysorbate^® as emulsifiers was further evaluated through sensory analysis. Independent assessors determined that the sensory attributes of the cream did not undergo significant changes even when zinc oxide was added at a concentration of 1% (w/w) to the formulation. These findings underscore the importance of carefully selecting emulsifiers and boosters to achieve high sun protection efficacy, stability, and desirable sensory properties in sunscreen formulations. Full article

Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced using UV, IR, SDS, LPS, and RA, followed by treatment with the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin. The results demonstrated significant reductions in inflammatory cytokines, indicating potent anti-inflammatory properties. Based on these promising results, clinical trials were conducted to assess the effects of the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract on skin barrier function using various irritants, including IR, UV, SDS, Retinol, and tape stripping. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and erythema were performed to evaluate the extract’s protective effects. The results indicated that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract effectively mitigated skin barrier damage and reduced erythema, confirming its potential as a skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory agent. This study suggests that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract, rich in bioactive compounds such as geraniin, can be utilized in the development of cosmetic products aimed at reducing skin inflammation and protecting against environmental irritants. Full article

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care products. We set up a chromatographic method to simultaneously assess the occurrence of nine endocrine disruptors and to verify the compliance with mandatory regulations concerning the potential fraudulent additions of preservatives. A total of twenty-six haircare products were collected and analyzed. The limits of detection ranged from 0.052 μg mL⁻¹ to 1.744 μg mL⁻¹, while the limits of quantification ranged from 0.175 μg mL⁻¹ to 5.815 μg mL⁻¹, respectively. Analyte recovery was between 66% and 87%, demonstrating the accuracy of the method in these target formulations. Even if the recovered quantity of parabens did not exceed the legal limits, the analysis detected bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in 2 real samples and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) in all 26 samples, with concentrations ranging from 151.01 μg/100 g to 1042.58 μg/100 g. Although the European Union regulates the quantity of potentially harmful compounds in consumer goods, repeated use of certain products, such as haircare formulations, could result in chronic exposure to several endocrine disruptors. Full article

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise microbial identification by targeting specific RNA or DNA sequences with fluorescent probes. In this study, a novel DNA-FISH probe was developed for the detection of Candida albicans in cosmetic formulations. The probe’s specificity was assessed in silico and experimentally using flow cytometry (flow-FISH) on C. albicans and non-target microorganisms, including Pichia kudriavzevii, commonly known as Candida krusei, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Wickerhamomyces anomalus, Escherichia coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. The probe exhibited 98.9% hybridization efficiency with C. albicans, yielding a fluorescence intensity (FI) of 25,000 (a.u.), while non-target yeasts demonstrated minimal hybridization (4.7%, 2.3%, and 1.9% for C. krusei, S. cerevisiae, and W. anomalus, respectively) and bacteria showed negligible FI. Additionally, the probe’s applicability was evaluated in a tonic formulation, where C. albicans’ hybridization efficiency was slightly reduced to 88.4%, suggesting that formulation components may influence probe performance. Nevertheless, the probe maintained high specificity and efficiency without formamide, a toxic reagent commonly used in FISH. These findings highlight the potential of FISH probes for rapid, accurate, and safe microbial detection, offering a valuable tool for microbiological quality control in the cosmetics industry. Full article

2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44 ± 8 years), who applied 0.01% or 0.05% AOH lotion to each half of their face twice daily. Skin assessments were conducted before and after application at 4, 8, and 12 weeks by measuring stratum corneum water content using a Corneometer and evaluating wrinkles through image analysis of replicas. Application of the lotion enhanced stratum corneum water content. Use of 0.01% AOH reduced the wrinkle area percentage and maximum wrinkle depth at 8 and 12 weeks post-application, respectively. The 0.05% lotion showed a significant reduction in the wrinkle area percentage and mean maximum wrinkle depth at 12 weeks and a significant decrease in maximum wrinkle depth at 4 weeks. A between-group comparison revealed that the 0.05% AOH lotion significantly reduced mean maximum wrinkle depth compared to the 0.01% AOH lotion at 8 and 12 weeks, indicating a concentration-dependent effect of AOH. Overall, AOH improves wrinkles in a concentration-dependent manner, confirming its efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle improvement. Full article

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus L., Vaccinium myrtillus, Cistus ladanifer and Thymus x citriodorus) as bioactive ingredients. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method. Cellular biocompatibility was evaluated in fibroblasts (L929) and macrophages (RAW 264.7). Skin-repairing and anti-senescence properties were evaluated in L929 cells through the scratch-wound method and β-galactosidase assay. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) was quantified using a commercial kit, and lipopolysaccharide-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) were quantified using a fluorescent probe (H₂DCFDA) in RAW 264.7. The results highlighted the beneficial impact of extracts combined with NMWs. An increase in antioxidant capacity of up to 90% was observed in mixtures comprising Ficus carica L., compared with NMWs alone. In contrast, mixtures with Cistus ladanifer showed promising anti-aging potential, with a 40% decrease in senescent cells and a 33% ROS reduction. Rubus idaeus L. extract produced an increase in cell migration capacity (up to 50%), depending on the NMW. This study highlights the potential synergism of natural ingredients with plant extracts for anti-aging. Full article

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream^® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. The SPF values of P1 and P2 obtained by in vitro tests were 25.21 and 12.10, respectively. They also exhibited pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, which could contribute to better spreadability and form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The comparison of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market. Full article

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study examined skin biopsy samples from three Caucasian male subjects with different levels of UV exposure, aiming to evaluate the effectiveness of two-photon microscopy (2PM) and Second Harmonic Generation (SHG) in visualizing and quantifying structural changes associated with skin aging. The samples were analyzed using 2PM to assess the structure and density of collagen and elastin fibers within the ECM. Integrated optical density (IOD) and the SHG-to-Autofluorescence Aging Index of the Dermis (SAAID) were used for quantitative analysis. Results: This study revealed a significant decrease in collagen density and increased disorganization in the ECM with age. Photo-exposed skin showed a more pronounced degradation of collagen and a higher increase in elastin content compared to non-photo-exposed skin. The average IOD for collagen was notably lower in elderly subjects compared to younger subjects, with a marked decrease in chronically photo-exposed skin. Discussion: The SAAID values indicated a substantial impact of photoaging, with lower scores in photo-exposed elderly skin compared to non-exposed skin. Conclusions: In conclusion, 2PM and SHG microscopy were effective in visualizing and quantifying age- and UV-induced skin remodeling, providing valuable insights into the distinct mechanisms driving intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Full article

It is with great pride and pleasure that we present this Special Issue, “Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics”, marking a significant milestone–a decade of Cosmetics serving as a vibrant platform for disseminating cutting-edge research in cosmetic science [...] Full article

Waste products from agricultural crops can become valuable if their benefits are discovered. Mangosteen, known as the “queen of fruits”, has a pericarp extract that has been reported to possess various biological activities, including antioxidation, anti-inflammation, antimicrobial activity, and UVB protection (in vitro and in vivo). In this work, we revealed that mangosteen pericarp extract (MPE) exhibits photoprotective properties in primary human dermal fibroblasts (PHDFs) exposed to ultraviolet A (UVA). The α-mangostin content, a major compound in MPE, was determined to be 60.9 ± 1.2% using HPLC. In an in vitro, cell-based assay, we first assessed the cytotoxicity of MPE on PHDFs using the MTT assay. The highest concentration of MPE that showed no cytotoxicity was 50.0 µg/mL. For antioxidative effects, MPE reduced intracellular ROS levels induced by H₂O₂, compared to H₂O₂-treated PHDFs. To assess the photoprotective effect of MPE, cells were pretreated with MPE for 24 h before exposure to UVA at an intensity of 5 J/cm². Our data demonstrated that MPE pretreatment reduced the accumulation of senescent cells compared to UVA-induced senescent cells (7.1 ± 2.4% vs. 12.0 ± 0.2%, respectively). In addition, we examined key aging-related markers, including matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and collagen type I. The expression level of MMP-1 levels was 23,873.4 ± 5498.1 pg/mL in MPE-treated, UVA-induced PHDFs, compared to 38,929.1 ± 6971.4 pg/mL in untreated UVA-induced PHDFs. Meanwhile, procollagen type I in MPE-pretreated PHDFs was 56,443.3 ± 3623.8 pg/mL, compared to 37,137.4 ± 4614.8 pg/mL in UVA-induced PHDFs. These experimental results highlight the photoprotective properties of Garcinia mangostana peel extract, which contains α-mangostin as a major compound, and suggest its potential as an active ingredient in cosmeceuticals for protecting against UVA-induced aging. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to report the photoprotective effects of MPE on UVA-induced senescent cells. Full article

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, peptides have gained popularity in the cosmetic field, providing solutions for anti-aging, whitening, moisturizing, and skin repair. Moreover, innovations such as artificial intelligence-assisted peptide design, efficient delivery systems, and the integration of multifunctional ingredients have significantly contributed to the industry’s rapid evolution. This review explores the historical milestones of peptides in medicine and cosmetics, delves into cutting-edge synthesis technologies, and dissects the molecular mechanisms behind their cosmetic properties. Research in medicinal peptides has promoted the development of cosmetic peptides. Despite their potential, challenges such as stability, bioavailability, and cost-effective production remain barriers to widespread adoption. Future studies should focus on enhancing peptide stability, developing synergistic formulations, and conducting large-scale clinical trials to validate long-term efficacy. With continuous innovation, peptides are poised to redefine the cosmetic industry, bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and skincare for safer and more effective solutions. Full article

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current global prevalence is approximately 9.4%, reflecting its continued relevance as a public health concern. While early epidemiological studies were predominantly conducted in the United States and United Kingdom, recent data from diverse geographic regions highlight the need for updated, globally representative research. The Global Burden of Disease (GBD) initiative has recognized acne as a condition with a substantial impact on disability-adjusted life years (DALYs), underscoring its contribution to both physical and psychological morbidity. This review aims to synthesize current epidemiological findings, identify high-risk populations, and explore intrinsic and extrinsic factors influencing disease distribution and progression. A deeper understanding of acne’s epidemiology is essential to inform prevention strategies and improve outcomes in dermatological care. Full article

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects of prebiotics and functional actives on M. luteus Q24 were evaluated, identifying oil-based actives, including vitamin E and pomegranate seed oil, that significantly boosted bacterial growth compared to oatmeal, the sole effective prebiotic tested. Subsequently, a pilot cosmetic trial assessed two M. luteus Q24-enriched balms on healthy adults utilising a cutting-edge AI (Artificial Intelligence) driven skin analyser device. Balm B significantly reduced keratin levels, wrinkles, and pore size, and increased hydration, while Balm A effectively reduced spots and keratin. After 4 days of application, Balm A showed mean percentage reductions of 80% in pores, 20% in spots, 60% in wrinkles, and 100% in keratin scores, while Balm B exhibited mean percentage reductions of 100% in pores, 50% in spots, 67% in wrinkles, and 80% in keratin, with a 100% increase in hydration score. Both balms demonstrated compatibility and efficacy, highlighting the potential of M. luteus Q24 in improving skin parameters. These findings suggest that balms optimise the benefits of skin-specific probiotics for microbiome-friendly skincare. Future research with larger, placebo-controlled trials is needed to substantiate these preliminary findings. Full article

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending on skin type, age, fitness level, and environmental exposures. Recent advances in artificial intelligence (AI) offer new opportunities for tailoring exercise programs to meet individual skin health needs. Wearable sensors and smart fitness devices provide real-time data on physiological responses (e.g., heart rate, sweat rate, and oxidative stress) and environmental parameters (e.g., UV exposure and pollution levels). AI algorithms process this data to create dynamic, adaptive exercise routines designed to maximize skin benefits while minimizing potential harm (e.g., exercise-induced oxidative stress in sensitive skin types). This review synthesizes the current evidence on the skin benefits of exercise while exploring the emerging role of AI-driven personalized physical activity as a novel tool in cosmetic dermatology. Integrating AI into fitness planning, personalized, non-invasive skincare strategies may complement traditional topical and procedural approaches, representing a step forward in precision dermatology. Full article

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have been used in traditional medicine, which has been scientifically proved. The differential in this study was the use of leaves to obtain the ethanolic extract and its fractions and with incorporation in microemulsions that can increase the activity, promoting greater availability of active components in therapeutic targets. Candida glabrata has been very prominent in nosocomial infections and our results were very promising, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration of 4.88 μg/mL for the extract and about a 4-fold decrease with its microemulsion reaching 1.22 μg/mL; for the dermatophytic fungus Trichophyton rubrum, this decreased 2-fold, from 156.25 μg/mL to 78.12 μg/mL. The antioxidant activity was also studied, showing the best results for the extract at 25.6 μg/mL and lastly, the samples were not toxic when the Galleria mellonella model was used. Thus, the results demonstrate the activity of the extract, and that the incorporation was able to increase the antifungal activity in a safe, non-toxic manner, making it possible to provide a therapeutic option for these fluconazole-resistant microorganisms. Full article

This study aims to compare nanoemulsions and conventional emulsions as delivery systems for plant oils. For this reason, the formulation approach was evaluated, followed by an assessment of physicochemical properties and stability. Six different compositions of emulsions and their respective nanoemulsions were prepared using combinations of solid lipids (beeswax or cocoa butter) with liquid lipids (olive, almond, or apricot oil). Their physicochemical characteristics and their colloidal stability over time were assessed using Dynamic Light Scattering or Static Light Scattering. The performance of samples on the skin was assessed by measuring their occlusion effect (F), while their hydrating effect was assessed on healthy volunteers. The nanoemulsions exhibited improved stability compared to the corresponding conventional emulsions of the same composition. However, all samples (emulsions or nanoemulsions) exhibited a satisfactory occlusive effect (F > 10), mainly at 6 h. In addition, all samples caused increased skin hydration by 10–20% one hour post-application. Nanoemulsions containing plant-origin oils showed better physicochemical stability compared to their corresponding emulsions. The in vivo assessment revealed no skin irritation caused by the samples. Nevertheless, subjective evaluations by volunteers unveil a preference for conventional emulsions, which were perceived as providing a more favorable skin texture, regardless of their composition. Full article

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard^®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles. Full article

Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased collagen (+87.53%) and elastin (+61.29%) production and secretion (+66.29% and +69.74%, respectively) and decreased the Matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and MMP-2 secretion in aged human dermal fibroblasts, vs. aging condition. At the clinical level, Chrono Control Penta was demonstrated to be already active after 2 weeks, promoting a 9.3% reduction in pigmentation after 6 weeks of use, showing its efficacy in promoting skin complexion. Furthermore, it exhibited significant moisturizing (13.05%), anti-wrinkle (11.55%), and purifying effects (12.45%), as well as firming effects (6.35%), after 6 weeks. The peptide was also well tolerated, with no adverse effects reported in clinical patch tests. This timely study presents novel research on a plant derived peptide, Chrono Control Penta, a significantly contribution to the burgeoning cosmetic peptide market. Our rigorous findings make it a new powerful ingredient, offering a comprehensive solution for skin health, and establishing a strong foundation for future research and application. Full article

Lawsonia inermis L. is renowned for its hair dyeing properties, with henna quality and safety often regulated by restrictions on the lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) content. In henna leaves, lawsone exists as glycosylated precursors, hennosides A, B, and C. Aqueous maceration revealed the sensitivity of enzymatic lawsone release, while ethanol extraction inhibited β-glucosidase activity, enabling controlled hennoside extraction. Hennoside A was isolated via RP-column chromatography and characterized using ESI-TOF, ¹H-/¹³C-NMR, COSY, NOESY, HSQC, and HMBC. The purified compound proved suitable as an HPLC reference standard. The acidic hydrolysis of hennoside-rich extracts highlighted the limitations of lawsone-based analysis, underscoring glycosylated precursors as more reliable quality markers. Lawsone quantification via enzymatic or acid catalysis demonstrated varying accuracy in quality control. A hennoside-based approach ensures consistency by estimating the maximum releasable lawsone without inducing its formation, providing a more robust metric for a henna quality assessment. Full article