Cosmetics

12 pages, 841 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Evaluating Skin Acid–Base Balance After Application of Cold-Processed and Hot-Processed Natural Soaps: A Double-Blind pH Monitoring Study

by Julita Zdrada-Nowak, Sandra Aniołkowska and Małgorzata Deska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030120 - 11 Jun 2025

Abstract

Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled [...] Read more.

Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled design was applied to assess changes in pH following application of soap formulations. pH levels were measured in vivo using non-invasive instrumentation at baseline and 2, 15 and 30 min post-application in 41 adult volunteers. The results demonstrated a significant increase in skin pH immediately after exposure to both types of natural soap, with elevated values persisting for up to 30 min. These changes were associated with potential disruption of the skin’s acid mantle and reduced buffering capacity. The findings highlight the importance of pH considerations in the formulation and routine use of natural cleansers. Although natural soaps are often perceived as gentle alternatives, their alkalinity may transiently disturb the skin’s acid–base homeostasis, potentially leading to increased transepidermal water loss and barrier impairment. This study supports the need for reformulation strategies and consumer awareness regarding the physicochemical impact of cleansing agents on skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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15 pages, 18796 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Study of the Repair Action and Mechanisms of a Moisturizing Cream on an SLS-Damaged Skin Model Using Two-Photon Microscopy

by Yixin Shen, Ying Ye, Lina Wang, Huiping Hu, Caixia Wang, Yuxuan Wu, Dingqiao Lin, Jiaqi Shen, Hong Zhang, Yanan Li and Peiwen Sun

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030119 - 10 Jun 2025

Abstract

This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The [...] Read more.

This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The innovative formulation of the cream includes ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide AP, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, and bacillus ferment, targeting the enhancement of skin hydration, barrier function, and structural integrity. In SLS-stimulated 3D skin models and clinical settings, the cream significantly improved the expression of key barrier proteins such as filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), while reducing inflammatory markers like IL-1α, TNF-α, and PGE2. Notably, the cream facilitated a significant increase in epidermal thickness and improved the dermal–epidermal junction index (DEJI), as observed through TPM, indicating profound skin repair and enhanced barrier functionality. Clinical trials further demonstrated the cream’s reparative effects, significantly reducing symptoms in participants with sensitive skin and post-intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment scenarios. This study highlights the utility of TPM as a groundbreaking tool in cosmetic dermatology, offering real-time analysis of the effects of skincare products on skin structure and function. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 2388 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Role of Emulsifiers and SPF Booster in Sunscreen Performance: Assessing SPF, Rheological Behavior, Texture, and Stability

by Miroslava Špaglová, Paula Čermáková, Patrícia Jackuliaková and Juraj Piešťanský

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030118 - 5 Jun 2025

Viewed by 299

Abstract

This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate^® 80 with Beautyderm^® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along [...] Read more.

This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate^® 80 with Beautyderm^® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along with the effect of increasing concentrations of the Sunhancer™ Eco SPF Booster, was thoroughly evaluated. Spectrophotometric methods were used to determine SPF, while texture analysis and rheological measurements assessed physical characteristics. Stability was evaluated using a centrifuge stress test, and sensory analysis was conducted on the top-performing formulation. The results indicated that the choice of emulsifier and booster concentration significantly influenced SPF values and stability. The influence of booster concentration on textural properties was most significant in formulations containing Beautyderm^®. Centrifuge testing revealed phase separation in certain formulations. Notably, the formulations that exhibited the greatest stability were those in which Beautyderm^® was combined with either Polysorbate^® or Span^®. Following the stability test results, the cream formulation containing Beautyderm^® and Polysorbate^® as emulsifiers was further evaluated through sensory analysis. Independent assessors determined that the sensory attributes of the cream did not undergo significant changes even when zinc oxide was added at a concentration of 1% (w/w) to the formulation. These findings underscore the importance of carefully selecting emulsifiers and boosters to achieve high sun protection efficacy, stability, and desirable sensory properties in sunscreen formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 2336 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Nephelium lappaceum Peel Extract and Geraniin on External Skin Stimulation

by Eun-Jeong Lee, Soo-Mi Ahn, Youn-Hee Nam, Myo-Deok Kim, Chan-Song Jo, Bin-Na Hong, Youn-Ki Cho and Jae-Sung Hwang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030117 - 4 Jun 2025

Viewed by 269

Abstract

Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced [...] Read more.

Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced using UV, IR, SDS, LPS, and RA, followed by treatment with the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin. The results demonstrated significant reductions in inflammatory cytokines, indicating potent anti-inflammatory properties. Based on these promising results, clinical trials were conducted to assess the effects of the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract on skin barrier function using various irritants, including IR, UV, SDS, Retinol, and tape stripping. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and erythema were performed to evaluate the extract’s protective effects. The results indicated that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract effectively mitigated skin barrier damage and reduced erythema, confirming its potential as a skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory agent. This study suggests that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract, rich in bioactive compounds such as geraniin, can be utilized in the development of cosmetic products aimed at reducing skin inflammation and protecting against environmental irritants. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 375 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Analytical Framework for the Selective Extraction and Determination of Nine Multiclass Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals from Haircare Products

by Ilaria Neri, Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Giacomo Russo, Teresa Di Serio, Lucia Grumetto and Sonia Laneri

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030116 - 3 Jun 2025

Viewed by 300

Abstract

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care [...] Read more.

Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care products. We set up a chromatographic method to simultaneously assess the occurrence of nine endocrine disruptors and to verify the compliance with mandatory regulations concerning the potential fraudulent additions of preservatives. A total of twenty-six haircare products were collected and analyzed. The limits of detection ranged from 0.052 μg mL⁻¹ to 1.744 μg mL⁻¹, while the limits of quantification ranged from 0.175 μg mL⁻¹ to 5.815 μg mL⁻¹, respectively. Analyte recovery was between 66% and 87%, demonstrating the accuracy of the method in these target formulations. Even if the recovered quantity of parabens did not exceed the legal limits, the analysis detected bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in 2 real samples and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) in all 26 samples, with concentrations ranging from 151.01 μg/100 g to 1042.58 μg/100 g. Although the European Union regulates the quantity of potentially harmful compounds in consumer goods, repeated use of certain products, such as haircare formulations, could result in chronic exposure to several endocrine disruptors. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 1014 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Design of a Novel DNA-FISH Probe for the Rapid Identification of Candida albicans in Cosmetic Products

by Patrícia Branco, Margarida Nunes, Paula Pereira and Elisabete Muchagato Mauricio

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030115 - 3 Jun 2025

Viewed by 294

Abstract

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise [...] Read more.

Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise microbial identification by targeting specific RNA or DNA sequences with fluorescent probes. In this study, a novel DNA-FISH probe was developed for the detection of Candida albicans in cosmetic formulations. The probe’s specificity was assessed in silico and experimentally using flow cytometry (flow-FISH) on C. albicans and non-target microorganisms, including Pichia kudriavzevii, commonly known as Candida krusei, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Wickerhamomyces anomalus, Escherichia coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. The probe exhibited 98.9% hybridization efficiency with C. albicans, yielding a fluorescence intensity (FI) of 25,000 (a.u.), while non-target yeasts demonstrated minimal hybridization (4.7%, 2.3%, and 1.9% for C. krusei, S. cerevisiae, and W. anomalus, respectively) and bacteria showed negligible FI. Additionally, the probe’s applicability was evaluated in a tonic formulation, where C. albicans’ hybridization efficiency was slightly reduced to 88.4%, suggesting that formulation components may influence probe performance. Nevertheless, the probe maintained high specificity and efficiency without formamide, a toxic reagent commonly used in FISH. These findings highlight the potential of FISH probes for rapid, accurate, and safe microbial detection, offering a valuable tool for microbiological quality control in the cosmetics industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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10 pages, 1067 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Improvement in Wrinkles by a Fairy Chemical, 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine

by Hisae Aoshima, Rinta Ibuki and Hirokazu Kawagishi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030114 - 3 Jun 2025

Viewed by 254

Abstract

2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44 [...] Read more.

2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44 ± 8 years), who applied 0.01% or 0.05% AOH lotion to each half of their face twice daily. Skin assessments were conducted before and after application at 4, 8, and 12 weeks by measuring stratum corneum water content using a Corneometer and evaluating wrinkles through image analysis of replicas. Application of the lotion enhanced stratum corneum water content. Use of 0.01% AOH reduced the wrinkle area percentage and maximum wrinkle depth at 8 and 12 weeks post-application, respectively. The 0.05% lotion showed a significant reduction in the wrinkle area percentage and mean maximum wrinkle depth at 12 weeks and a significant decrease in maximum wrinkle depth at 4 weeks. A between-group comparison revealed that the 0.05% AOH lotion significantly reduced mean maximum wrinkle depth compared to the 0.01% AOH lotion at 8 and 12 weeks, indicating a concentration-dependent effect of AOH. Overall, AOH improves wrinkles in a concentration-dependent manner, confirming its efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle improvement. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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19 pages, 2591 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Mineral Water–Plant Extract Combinations as Potential Anti-Aging Ingredients: An In Vitro Evaluation

by Carolina P. Gomes, Ana S. Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Tayse F. F. da Silveira, Rita Palmeira de Oliveira, Maria José Alves, Paula Plasencia and Ana Palmeira de Oliveira

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030113 - 28 May 2025

Viewed by 565

Abstract

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus [...] Read more.

Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus L., Vaccinium myrtillus, Cistus ladanifer and Thymus x citriodorus) as bioactive ingredients. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method. Cellular biocompatibility was evaluated in fibroblasts (L929) and macrophages (RAW 264.7). Skin-repairing and anti-senescence properties were evaluated in L929 cells through the scratch-wound method and β-galactosidase assay. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) was quantified using a commercial kit, and lipopolysaccharide-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) were quantified using a fluorescent probe (H₂DCFDA) in RAW 264.7. The results highlighted the beneficial impact of extracts combined with NMWs. An increase in antioxidant capacity of up to 90% was observed in mixtures comprising Ficus carica L., compared with NMWs alone. In contrast, mixtures with Cistus ladanifer showed promising anti-aging potential, with a 40% decrease in senescent cells and a 33% ROS reduction. Rubus idaeus L. extract produced an increase in cell migration capacity (up to 50%), depending on the NMW. This study highlights the potential synergism of natural ingredients with plant extracts for anti-aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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16 pages, 1793 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles, and Rheology of Two Photoprotective Formulations with Natural Extracts: A Commercial Product Versus a Vegan Test Formulation

by Karine Campos Nunes, Bruna Lendzion Alves, Rafaela Said dos Santos, Lennon Alonso de Araújo, Rosângela Bergamasco, Marcos Luciano Bruschi, Tânia Ueda-Nakamura, Sueli de Oliveira Silva Lautenschlager and Celso Vataru Nakamura

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030112 - 27 May 2025

Viewed by 456

Abstract

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, [...] Read more.

Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream^® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. The SPF values of P1 and P2 obtained by in vitro tests were 25.21 and 12.10, respectively. They also exhibited pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, which could contribute to better spreadability and form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The comparison of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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12 pages, 1339 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Two-Photon Microscopy for the Investigation of Morphological and Quantitative Changes in Skin Chrono- and Photo-Aging

by Stefano Bighetti, Chiara Rovati, Luca Bettolini, Mariachiara Arisi, Mariateresa Rossi, Cosetta Ravelli, Sara Rovaris, Marina Venturini, Stefania Mitola and Piergiacomo Calzavara-Pinton

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030111 - 26 May 2025

Viewed by 352

Abstract

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study [...] Read more.

Introduction: Skin aging is influenced both by intrinsic factors and environmental exposures, such as UV radiation, which accelerate structural changes within the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Understanding these changes is crucial for developing effective anti-aging treatments. Materials and Methods: This pilot cross-sectional study examined skin biopsy samples from three Caucasian male subjects with different levels of UV exposure, aiming to evaluate the effectiveness of two-photon microscopy (2PM) and Second Harmonic Generation (SHG) in visualizing and quantifying structural changes associated with skin aging. The samples were analyzed using 2PM to assess the structure and density of collagen and elastin fibers within the ECM. Integrated optical density (IOD) and the SHG-to-Autofluorescence Aging Index of the Dermis (SAAID) were used for quantitative analysis. Results: This study revealed a significant decrease in collagen density and increased disorganization in the ECM with age. Photo-exposed skin showed a more pronounced degradation of collagen and a higher increase in elastin content compared to non-photo-exposed skin. The average IOD for collagen was notably lower in elderly subjects compared to younger subjects, with a marked decrease in chronically photo-exposed skin. Discussion: The SAAID values indicated a substantial impact of photoaging, with lower scores in photo-exposed elderly skin compared to non-exposed skin. Conclusions: In conclusion, 2PM and SHG microscopy were effective in visualizing and quantifying age- and UV-induced skin remodeling, providing valuable insights into the distinct mechanisms driving intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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2 pages, 510 KiB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Miranda et al. Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Potential of Brassica oleracea Accelerates Third-Degree Burn Healing in Rats. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 27

by Lyvia Lopes Miranda, Mariáurea Matias Sarandy, Luciana Schulthais Altoé, Daniel Silva Sena Bastos, Fabiana Cristina Silveira Alves Melo, Rômulo Dias Novaes, Debora Araújo Esposito and Reggiani Vilela Gonçalves

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030110 - 26 May 2025

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Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Anti-oxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Natural Compounds - 2nd Edition)

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2 pages, 144 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

A Decade of Innovation: Celebrating 10 Years of Cosmetics

by Enzo Berardesca

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030109 - 26 May 2025

Viewed by 385

Abstract

It is with great pride and pleasure that we present this Special Issue, “Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics”, marking a significant milestone–a decade of Cosmetics serving as a vibrant platform for disseminating cutting-edge research in [...] Read more.

It is with great pride and pleasure that we present this Special Issue, “Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics”, marking a significant milestone–a decade of Cosmetics serving as a vibrant platform for disseminating cutting-edge research in cosmetic science [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)

15 pages, 2846 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Senescence and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Mangosteen Pericarp Extract on UVA-Induced Fibroblasts

by Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Piyachat Kasemkiatsakul, Tanikan Sangnim, Somnathtai Yammen, Jinnipha Pajoubpong and Boonyadist Vongsak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 108; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030108 - 23 May 2025

Viewed by 451

Abstract

Waste products from agricultural crops can become valuable if their benefits are discovered. Mangosteen, known as the “queen of fruits”, has a pericarp extract that has been reported to possess various biological activities, including antioxidation, anti-inflammation, antimicrobial activity, and UVB protection (in vitro [...] Read more.

Waste products from agricultural crops can become valuable if their benefits are discovered. Mangosteen, known as the “queen of fruits”, has a pericarp extract that has been reported to possess various biological activities, including antioxidation, anti-inflammation, antimicrobial activity, and UVB protection (in vitro and in vivo). In this work, we revealed that mangosteen pericarp extract (MPE) exhibits photoprotective properties in primary human dermal fibroblasts (PHDFs) exposed to ultraviolet A (UVA). The α-mangostin content, a major compound in MPE, was determined to be 60.9 ± 1.2% using HPLC. In an in vitro, cell-based assay, we first assessed the cytotoxicity of MPE on PHDFs using the MTT assay. The highest concentration of MPE that showed no cytotoxicity was 50.0 µg/mL. For antioxidative effects, MPE reduced intracellular ROS levels induced by H₂O₂, compared to H₂O₂-treated PHDFs. To assess the photoprotective effect of MPE, cells were pretreated with MPE for 24 h before exposure to UVA at an intensity of 5 J/cm². Our data demonstrated that MPE pretreatment reduced the accumulation of senescent cells compared to UVA-induced senescent cells (7.1 ± 2.4% vs. 12.0 ± 0.2%, respectively). In addition, we examined key aging-related markers, including matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and collagen type I. The expression level of MMP-1 levels was 23,873.4 ± 5498.1 pg/mL in MPE-treated, UVA-induced PHDFs, compared to 38,929.1 ± 6971.4 pg/mL in untreated UVA-induced PHDFs. Meanwhile, procollagen type I in MPE-pretreated PHDFs was 56,443.3 ± 3623.8 pg/mL, compared to 37,137.4 ± 4614.8 pg/mL in UVA-induced PHDFs. These experimental results highlight the photoprotective properties of Garcinia mangostana peel extract, which contains α-mangostin as a major compound, and suggest its potential as an active ingredient in cosmeceuticals for protecting against UVA-induced aging. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to report the photoprotective effects of MPE on UVA-induced senescent cells. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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24 pages, 2102 KiB

Open AccessReview

Peptides in Cosmetics: From Pharmaceutical Breakthroughs to Skincare Innovations

by Yuxiang Tang, Tong Nie, Lu Zhang, Xiaohui Liu and Haiteng Deng

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030107 - 23 May 2025

Viewed by 1375

Abstract

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, [...] Read more.

Peptides are molecules composed of two or more amino acids linked by peptide bonds, and they play essential biological roles. In recent decades, peptides have become pivotal bioactive ingredients in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics due to their unique features. Originally developed for therapeutic purposes, peptides have gained popularity in the cosmetic field, providing solutions for anti-aging, whitening, moisturizing, and skin repair. Moreover, innovations such as artificial intelligence-assisted peptide design, efficient delivery systems, and the integration of multifunctional ingredients have significantly contributed to the industry’s rapid evolution. This review explores the historical milestones of peptides in medicine and cosmetics, delves into cutting-edge synthesis technologies, and dissects the molecular mechanisms behind their cosmetic properties. Research in medicinal peptides has promoted the development of cosmetic peptides. Despite their potential, challenges such as stability, bioavailability, and cost-effective production remain barriers to widespread adoption. Future studies should focus on enhancing peptide stability, developing synergistic formulations, and conducting large-scale clinical trials to validate long-term efficacy. With continuous innovation, peptides are poised to redefine the cosmetic industry, bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and skincare for safer and more effective solutions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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17 pages, 650 KiB

Open AccessReview

The Epidemiology of Acne in the Current Era: Trends and Clinical Implications

by Dumitrița Lenuța Guguluș, Dan Vâță, Ioana Adriana Popescu, Adriana Ionela Pătrașcu, Ioana Alina Halip, Mădălina Mocanu and Laura Gheucă Solovăstru

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 106; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030106 - 22 May 2025

Viewed by 803

Abstract

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current [...] Read more.

Acne is an inflammatory dermatosis of the pilosebaceous unit that remains highly prevalent worldwide. In recent decades, the epidemiological profile of acne has evolved, with a rising incidence observed not only among adolescents but also in adult populations, particularly adult women. The current global prevalence is approximately 9.4%, reflecting its continued relevance as a public health concern. While early epidemiological studies were predominantly conducted in the United States and United Kingdom, recent data from diverse geographic regions highlight the need for updated, globally representative research. The Global Burden of Disease (GBD) initiative has recognized acne as a condition with a substantial impact on disability-adjusted life years (DALYs), underscoring its contribution to both physical and psychological morbidity. This review aims to synthesize current epidemiological findings, identify high-risk populations, and explore intrinsic and extrinsic factors influencing disease distribution and progression. A deeper understanding of acne’s epidemiology is essential to inform prevention strategies and improve outcomes in dermatological care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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13 pages, 981 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating the Cosmetic Efficacy of Topical Micrococcus luteus Q24 Probiotic Balm: A Pilot Study in Healthy Adults

by Abigail L. Voss, Stephanie A. Mattison, Sonali S. Sali, John D. F. Hale and Rohit Jain

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 105; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030105 - 22 May 2025

Viewed by 617

Abstract

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome is a focus for innovative skincare. This study investigated topical semi-solid balm formulations of Micrococcus luteus Q24, a live skin-native probiotic, to enhance skin quality parameters such as hydration, pores, pigmentation, wrinkles and dryness. Firstly, the compatibility and growth-promoting effects of prebiotics and functional actives on M. luteus Q24 were evaluated, identifying oil-based actives, including vitamin E and pomegranate seed oil, that significantly boosted bacterial growth compared to oatmeal, the sole effective prebiotic tested. Subsequently, a pilot cosmetic trial assessed two M. luteus Q24-enriched balms on healthy adults utilising a cutting-edge AI (Artificial Intelligence) driven skin analyser device. Balm B significantly reduced keratin levels, wrinkles, and pore size, and increased hydration, while Balm A effectively reduced spots and keratin. After 4 days of application, Balm A showed mean percentage reductions of 80% in pores, 20% in spots, 60% in wrinkles, and 100% in keratin scores, while Balm B exhibited mean percentage reductions of 100% in pores, 50% in spots, 67% in wrinkles, and 80% in keratin, with a 100% increase in hydration score. Both balms demonstrated compatibility and efficacy, highlighting the potential of M. luteus Q24 in improving skin parameters. These findings suggest that balms optimise the benefits of skin-specific probiotics for microbiome-friendly skincare. Future research with larger, placebo-controlled trials is needed to substantiate these preliminary findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 507 KiB

Open AccessReview

Optimizing Skin Quality via AI-Enhanced Physical Activity

by Niki Tertipi, Eleni Sfyri, Vasiliki Sofia Grech, Vasiliki Kefala and Efstathios Rallis

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030104 - 20 May 2025

Viewed by 1075

Abstract

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending [...] Read more.

Genetic predisposition, environmental factors, lifestyle choices, and physical activity influence skin quality. Regular exercise has well-documented benefits for skin physiology, including enhanced microcirculation, improved collagen synthesis, oxidative stress reduction, and modulation of inflammatory pathways. However, individual responses to physical activity vary significantly, depending on skin type, age, fitness level, and environmental exposures. Recent advances in artificial intelligence (AI) offer new opportunities for tailoring exercise programs to meet individual skin health needs. Wearable sensors and smart fitness devices provide real-time data on physiological responses (e.g., heart rate, sweat rate, and oxidative stress) and environmental parameters (e.g., UV exposure and pollution levels). AI algorithms process this data to create dynamic, adaptive exercise routines designed to maximize skin benefits while minimizing potential harm (e.g., exercise-induced oxidative stress in sensitive skin types). This review synthesizes the current evidence on the skin benefits of exercise while exploring the emerging role of AI-driven personalized physical activity as a novel tool in cosmetic dermatology. Integrating AI into fitness planning, personalized, non-invasive skincare strategies may complement traditional topical and procedural approaches, representing a step forward in precision dermatology. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 657 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Microemulsions Loaded with Plinia cauliflora Extract and Fractions for Topical Application Against Cutaneous Mycosis

by Rodrigo Sorrechia, Camila Cristina Baccetti Medeiros, João Vitor Carvalho Constantini, Rafaela Regina Fantatto, Bárbara Regina Kapp, Nathália Ferreira Fregonezi, Ana Melero, Ana Marisa Fusco-Almeida, Marlus Chorilli and Rosemeire Cristina Linhari Rodrigues Pietro

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030103 - 15 May 2025

Viewed by 466

Abstract

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have [...] Read more.

Fungal infections, including skin ones, due to resistant strains combined with the gap in discovering new antifungal compounds have presented great medical importance; thus, we evaluated the antifungal properties of Plinia cauliflora, a Brazilian plant known as jabuticabeira, as its fruits have been used in traditional medicine, which has been scientifically proved. The differential in this study was the use of leaves to obtain the ethanolic extract and its fractions and with incorporation in microemulsions that can increase the activity, promoting greater availability of active components in therapeutic targets. Candida glabrata has been very prominent in nosocomial infections and our results were very promising, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration of 4.88 μg/mL for the extract and about a 4-fold decrease with its microemulsion reaching 1.22 μg/mL; for the dermatophytic fungus Trichophyton rubrum, this decreased 2-fold, from 156.25 μg/mL to 78.12 μg/mL. The antioxidant activity was also studied, showing the best results for the extract at 25.6 μg/mL and lastly, the samples were not toxic when the Galleria mellonella model was used. Thus, the results demonstrate the activity of the extract, and that the incorporation was able to increase the antifungal activity in a safe, non-toxic manner, making it possible to provide a therapeutic option for these fluconazole-resistant microorganisms. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 8527 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Study Between Nanoemulsions and Conventional Emulsions as Carriers of Plant Oils: Formulation Approach, Physicochemical Properties, and In Vitro and In Vivo Assessments for Skin Care Application

by Angeliki Liakopoulou, Sophia Letsiou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis and Sophia Hatziantoniou

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 102; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030102 - 15 May 2025

Viewed by 578

Abstract

This study aims to compare nanoemulsions and conventional emulsions as delivery systems for plant oils. For this reason, the formulation approach was evaluated, followed by an assessment of physicochemical properties and stability. Six different compositions of emulsions and their respective nanoemulsions were prepared [...] Read more.

This study aims to compare nanoemulsions and conventional emulsions as delivery systems for plant oils. For this reason, the formulation approach was evaluated, followed by an assessment of physicochemical properties and stability. Six different compositions of emulsions and their respective nanoemulsions were prepared using combinations of solid lipids (beeswax or cocoa butter) with liquid lipids (olive, almond, or apricot oil). Their physicochemical characteristics and their colloidal stability over time were assessed using Dynamic Light Scattering or Static Light Scattering. The performance of samples on the skin was assessed by measuring their occlusion effect (F), while their hydrating effect was assessed on healthy volunteers. The nanoemulsions exhibited improved stability compared to the corresponding conventional emulsions of the same composition. However, all samples (emulsions or nanoemulsions) exhibited a satisfactory occlusive effect (F > 10), mainly at 6 h. In addition, all samples caused increased skin hydration by 10–20% one hour post-application. Nanoemulsions containing plant-origin oils showed better physicochemical stability compared to their corresponding emulsions. The in vivo assessment revealed no skin irritation caused by the samples. Nevertheless, subjective evaluations by volunteers unveil a preference for conventional emulsions, which were perceived as providing a more favorable skin texture, regardless of their composition. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Function Assessment: Applications in Cosmetics and Dermocosmetics)

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16 pages, 2073 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Marine Algae Extract-Loaded Nanoemulsions: A Spectrophotometric Approach to Broad-Spectrum Photoprotection

by Julian Tello Quiroz, Ingrid Andrea Rodriguez Martinez, Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Leonardo Castellanos and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030101 - 15 May 2025

Viewed by 523

Abstract

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids [...] Read more.

The depletion of the ozone layer and climate change have increased exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, driving the search for natural photoprotective agents. Marine macroalgae, particularly Gracilaria sp. (Rhodophyta) and Sargassum polyceratium (Ochrophyta), are rich in UV-absorbing bioactives, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and fucoxanthin, offering natural alternatives to synthetic sunscreens. This study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion incorporating both algal extracts, with MAAs and fucoxanthin strategically distributed in the aqueous and oil phases, respectively, to enhance synergistic broad-spectrum UV protection. MAAs were quantified in Gracilaria sp. using UHPLC-DAD, revealing 8.03 mg/g dry weight, primarily composed of shinorine and porphyra-334. Fucoxanthin was identified in S. polyceratium at 0.98 mg/g dry weight. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) was employed to optimize the nanoemulsion, targeting minimal droplet size and optimal ζ potential. The resulting formulation achieved a droplet size less than 100 nm and a ζ potential less than −25.0 mV. In vitro spectrophotometric analysis demonstrated significant photoprotective potential. The nanoemulsion containing only 375 ppm of algal extracts exhibited a UVA ratio of 1.25 and a critical wavelength of 379 nm, meeting the criteria for broad-spectrum protection and outperforming the commercial natural filter Helioguard^®365. These results confirm the efficacy of combining red and brown algae extracts in a nanoemulsion platform to deliver sustainable, low-dose photoprotection. This work presents, for the first time, the incorporation of red and brown algae extracts into a single nanoemulsion system, representing a novel strategy to maximize the combined photoprotective potential of MAAs and fucoxanthin. Ultimately, this investigation contributes to the growing field of marine-derived sunscreens and supports the advancement of “blue beauty” innovations aligned with eco-conscious formulation principles. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics: Nanotechnology and Sustainability in Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 2252 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Molecular and Human In Vivo Study of an Innovative Plant-Derived Multifunctional Peptide Signaling the Collagen and Elastin Pathways and Melanin Production

by Carlotta Bollati, Melissa Fanzaga, Lorenza d’Adduzio and Carmen Lammi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 100; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030100 - 15 May 2025

Viewed by 522

Abstract

Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased [...] Read more.

Chrono Control Penta is a novel plant derived multifunctional bioactive peptide, which offer a tailored targeted approach to skin health by addressing both pigmentation and aging. Chrono Control Penta inhibits tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ value of 202.8 µM. Additionally, it significantly increased collagen (+87.53%) and elastin (+61.29%) production and secretion (+66.29% and +69.74%, respectively) and decreased the Matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and MMP-2 secretion in aged human dermal fibroblasts, vs. aging condition. At the clinical level, Chrono Control Penta was demonstrated to be already active after 2 weeks, promoting a 9.3% reduction in pigmentation after 6 weeks of use, showing its efficacy in promoting skin complexion. Furthermore, it exhibited significant moisturizing (13.05%), anti-wrinkle (11.55%), and purifying effects (12.45%), as well as firming effects (6.35%), after 6 weeks. The peptide was also well tolerated, with no adverse effects reported in clinical patch tests. This timely study presents novel research on a plant derived peptide, Chrono Control Penta, a significantly contribution to the burgeoning cosmetic peptide market. Our rigorous findings make it a new powerful ingredient, offering a comprehensive solution for skin health, and establishing a strong foundation for future research and application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 2994 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel and Reliable Analysis Method Utilizing Hennosides to Improve the Quality Assessment of Lawsonia inermis L. Material Used in Cosmetic Formulations

by Nele Dallmann, Volkmar Vill and Fabian Straske

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 99; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030099 - 14 May 2025

Viewed by 556

Abstract

Lawsonia inermis L. is renowned for its hair dyeing properties, with henna quality and safety often regulated by restrictions on the lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) content. In henna leaves, lawsone exists as glycosylated precursors, hennosides A, B, and C. Aqueous maceration revealed the sensitivity of [...] Read more.

Lawsonia inermis L. is renowned for its hair dyeing properties, with henna quality and safety often regulated by restrictions on the lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) content. In henna leaves, lawsone exists as glycosylated precursors, hennosides A, B, and C. Aqueous maceration revealed the sensitivity of enzymatic lawsone release, while ethanol extraction inhibited β-glucosidase activity, enabling controlled hennoside extraction. Hennoside A was isolated via RP-column chromatography and characterized using ESI-TOF, ¹H-/¹³C-NMR, COSY, NOESY, HSQC, and HMBC. The purified compound proved suitable as an HPLC reference standard. The acidic hydrolysis of hennoside-rich extracts highlighted the limitations of lawsone-based analysis, underscoring glycosylated precursors as more reliable quality markers. Lawsone quantification via enzymatic or acid catalysis demonstrated varying accuracy in quality control. A hennoside-based approach ensures consistency by estimating the maximum releasable lawsone without inducing its formation, providing a more robust metric for a henna quality assessment. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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16 pages, 5324 KiB

Open AccessArticle

RNA Sequencing Reveals Effects of a New Complex Bath Additive on Cultured Cells

by Norihiro Otani, Kieu D. M. Nguyen, Jiawei Wan, Yasuharu Kanki and Takehito Sugasawa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 98; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030098 - 13 May 2025

Viewed by 1354

Abstract

In recent years, bath additives developed to enhance the physiological benefits of bathing have become a popular part of self-care routines. However, there has been little investigation of the biological effects of these additives, especially in terms of their impact on gene expression. [...] Read more.

In recent years, bath additives developed to enhance the physiological benefits of bathing have become a popular part of self-care routines. However, there has been little investigation of the biological effects of these additives, especially in terms of their impact on gene expression. To bridge this research gap, this study was implemented to reveal the effects of a newly developed complex bath additive, Karada Totonou ProBath (KTPB), on gene expression, using RNA sequencing (RNA-seq). Two human skin-derived cell lines (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) were treated with KTPB at a final concentration of 100 μg/mL, and RNA extracted between 15 and 240 min after treatment was subjected to RNA-seq analysis. The results showed that KTPB induced significant changes in the expression of over 80 genes in both cell lines. In particular, the expression levels of genes encoding Early Growth Response Protein 1 and Hyaluronic Acid Synthases increased over time following the treatment. Enrichment analysis showed the upregulation of pathways associated with cell activation in both cell types, with no evidence of KTPB-related cytotoxicity. The findings suggest that KTPB activates the metabolism of skin cells through hormesis without inducing toxicity. Our results provide new insights promoting future research in this field. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)

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8 pages, 1112 KiB

Open AccessCase Report

Successful Treatment of Hair Loss and Restoration of Natural Hair Color in Patient with Alopecia Areata Due to Psychological Disorder Using Exosomes: Case Report with 6-Month Follow-Up

by Emanuel Barbosa Bento, Cláudia Matos and Howard Lopes Ribeiro Junior

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030097 - 12 May 2025

Viewed by 810

Abstract

Alopecia areata (AA) is an autoimmune disorder causing non-scarring hair loss, which is often triggered by psychological stress. Conventional treatments, such as corticosteroids and immunotherapy, show variable efficacy and can cause side effects like hair discoloration. Exosome therapy, utilizing extracellular vesicles, presents a [...] Read more.

Alopecia areata (AA) is an autoimmune disorder causing non-scarring hair loss, which is often triggered by psychological stress. Conventional treatments, such as corticosteroids and immunotherapy, show variable efficacy and can cause side effects like hair discoloration. Exosome therapy, utilizing extracellular vesicles, presents a promising alternative, though its use in stress-related AA remains underexplored. A 39-year-old male with unifocal AA on the right parietal scalp developed hair loss following emotional distress after his fiancée’s death. Methotrexate and prednisolone were ineffective, prompting a bioregenerative approach using rose stem cell-derived exosomes (RSCEs) combined with thulium laser therapy. Six monthly sessions of RSCEs (20 mg/vial, 10 billion exosomes) were administered, with laser pre-treatment enhancing absorption. Within one month, vellus hair regrowth appeared, progressing to an increased density and pigmentation at three months. By six months, complete regrowth and natural pigmentation were achieved, with reduced inflammation confirmed by trichoscopy. The therapy was well-tolerated, with no adverse effects. This case highlights RSCE therapy as a promising treatment for stress-induced AA, achieving significant regrowth without corticosteroid-related side effects. Further studies are needed to validate its efficacy and refine protocols for broader clinical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovative Vesicular Systems and Natural Extracts for Targeted Drug Delivery, Cosmetics, and Skin Therapeutics)

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47 pages, 653 KiB

Open AccessReview

Frontiers in Topical Photoprotection

by Margaret Sullivan, Constancio Gonzalez Obezo, Zachary Lipsky, Abhishek Panchal and Jaide Jensen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030096 - 10 May 2025

Viewed by 1049

Abstract

This review synthesizes the latest research and developments to take into consideration for creating advanced sun protection products that meet evolving consumer demands. It examines the multifaceted effects of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, blue light, and infrared) on the skin, detailing cellular damage [...] Read more.

This review synthesizes the latest research and developments to take into consideration for creating advanced sun protection products that meet evolving consumer demands. It examines the multifaceted effects of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, blue light, and infrared) on the skin, detailing cellular damage mechanisms, including DNA and RNA damage, and oxidative stress. It covers advancements in sunscreen formulation science, delivery systems, and UV filters. It delves into testing methodology advancements addressing in vivo limitations, new regulatory guidelines, and the integration of artificial intelligence from new UV filter development to consumer facing apps. Finally, it highlights biotechnology’s potential to deliver novel sustainable UV filters. By providing a holistic perspective on these interdisciplinary advancements, this review serves as background reading, informing future sunscreen development and fostering a comprehensive approach to photoprotection that address current and emerging challenges. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)

12 pages, 2608 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Examination of Fungal and Root Extracts Inspired by Traditional Medicine for Potential Periorbital Eye Infrastructure Treatments

by James V. Gruber, Nicole Terpak, Sebastien Massard, Xiang Chen, John Craffey and Robert Holtz

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030095 - 8 May 2025

Viewed by 441

Abstract

An early indicator of aging may appear around the eyes and the surrounding eye infrastructure. With aging, there come diminishing changes in vascular microcirculation and the accumulation of hemoglobin by-products that gather in the fatty pads beneath the eyes as dark circles, akin [...] Read more.

An early indicator of aging may appear around the eyes and the surrounding eye infrastructure. With aging, there come diminishing changes in vascular microcirculation and the accumulation of hemoglobin by-products that gather in the fatty pads beneath the eyes as dark circles, akin to skin bruising. In addition, the extracellular matrix that surrounds the eye is exposed to external threats like UV radiation, weather and pollution, as well as lifestyle choices that create fatigue. This causes the eyes to express wrinkles well before they begin to appear on the rest of the face, particularly in the corners of the eyes called the crow’s feet region. Consumers spend considerable amounts of resources combatting these effects. If consumers could treat some of the sources of these problems, in advance of the inevitable influences of aging, a kind of prejuvenation of the eye infrastructure, then perhaps the inevitable outcomes of aging apparent around the eyes could be slowed. This paper examines the development and in vitro testing of two unique botanical extracts, one based on a traditional medicine mushroom called Phellinus linteus (Huang Sang) and the other based on a traditional medicine root from the plant Angelica polymorpha sinensis (Dong Quai). When combined, these two extracts create a blend called ANGEL-EYE EFX^® [INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Phellinus Linteus Extract (and) Angelica polymorpha sinensis Root Extract]. There are several key biomolecules of interest present in this blend, including hispolon, dihydrozingerone, and arginine, as demonstrated using advanced liquid chromatography/mass spectral analyses. The individual extracts were also broadly examined using human genomic microarray assays and then more specifically for their ability to influence several important skin proteins associated with undereye skin aging, including CYGB (Human Cytoglobin), OXSR1 (Oxidative Stress Response Kinase-1), LCE3B (Late Cornified Envelope-3B), EGFR (Epidermal Growth Factor Receptor), VEGFA (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor-1), and NINJ1 (Ninjurin-1). It was found that the treatment of Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) with increasing concentrations of the active blend between 0.05 and 2.0% showed statistically significant increases in all the proteins noted except VEGFA, which showed a statistically significant decrease in protein expression with the treatment of the Angelica polymorpha sinensis extract at 1.0%. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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18 pages, 1832 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Personalized Beauty: How Clinical Insights Shape Tailored Aesthetic Treatments

by Sara Campanella and Lorenzo Palma

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030094 - 7 May 2025

Viewed by 591

Abstract

Aesthetic procedures have advanced significantly, transcending mere vanity to become practical tools for enhancing well-being. The diversity of available aesthetic treatments and products can make it challenging for both professionals and consumers. Consequently, the field of aesthetics has begun to incorporate AI techniques. [...] Read more.

Aesthetic procedures have advanced significantly, transcending mere vanity to become practical tools for enhancing well-being. The diversity of available aesthetic treatments and products can make it challenging for both professionals and consumers. Consequently, the field of aesthetics has begun to incorporate AI techniques. The scope of this article is to evaluate the effects of various cosmetic procedures using the T•modella 5.0 machine and assess their effectiveness. We gathered data from 11 aesthetic centres and 36 subjects with different body constitutions (normal, overweight and obese). This is a prospective, multicenter, interventional study designed to assess the impact of the procedures on the participants. Clustering methods were used to analyse the results, identify trends and evaluate the efficacy. Additionally, we developed a novel algorithm that tailors cosmetic treatment regimens according to the unique physiological characteristics of each patient. The initial weight of patients has been found to influence the efficacy of treatments. Significant improvements have been observed in obese individuals, with reductions of 6% in hip circumference, 8% in waist circumference, and a decrease in fat mass. In contrast, overweight and normal-weight individuals exhibited less consistent outcomes, with results influenced by external factors such as stress, physical exercise, and medication. By utilising clustering techniques, we were able to move beyond traditional weight-based analyses. Based on these findings, we developed a recommendation system that can be integrated into treatment devices to optimise both clinical and aesthetic results. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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14 pages, 2355 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Porosity and Resistance of Textured Hair: Assessing Chemical and Physical Damage Under Consumer-Relevant Conditions

by Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Carolina Botelho Lourenço and Gislaine Ricci Leonardi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030093 - 6 May 2025

Viewed by 677

Abstract

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, [...] Read more.

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, blow-drying while combing, and styling with a hot flat iron, simulating a consumer routine spanning one to six months. Porosity-related properties were evaluated using swelling test, fluorescence, atomic force, and scanning electron microscopies, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry, and tensile testing. Both chemical and physical processes induced significant changes in the hair’s water permeability, surface topography, and appearance, alongside a reduction in mechanical and thermal properties, indicating substantial structural alterations compared to virgin hair. Increased porosity compared to virgin hair possibly reduced the heat conductivity of bleached hair, leading to less pronounced effects of heat exposure. These findings underscore the damaging potential of routine practices for textured hair and emphasize the need for targeted cosmetic solutions to protect and repair these fibers as part of consumers’ hair care regimens. Full article

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22 pages, 3465 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Biological Activities and Cytotoxicity of Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr Extracts and Investigation of Its Novel Natural Active Ingredient-Loaded Nanoemulsion and Stability Assessment

by Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Ranit Charoenjittichai, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Pimchanok Charoongchit and Eakkaluk Wongwad

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030092 - 2 May 2025

Viewed by 543

Abstract

Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr. (Acanthaceae family) has traditionally been used as a natural food colorant and in the treatment of various diseases. However, its biological activities—particularly its anti-glycation and anti-lipid peroxidation properties—as well as the development of novel nanoemulsions incorporating crude P. bivalvis [...] Read more.

Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr. (Acanthaceae family) has traditionally been used as a natural food colorant and in the treatment of various diseases. However, its biological activities—particularly its anti-glycation and anti-lipid peroxidation properties—as well as the development of novel nanoemulsions incorporating crude P. bivalvis leaf extracts for cosmetic applications, have not yet been reported. The aim of this study was to explore the potential of P. bivalvis leaf crude extracts as an active ingredient in nanocosmetics. Various solvents, including deionized water, 95% ethanol, and 1% HCl in 50% ethanol were used to macerate the plant material. These crude extracts were subsequently screened for their phytochemical constituents, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, as well as antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-lipid peroxidative activities, and fibroblasts cytotoxicity. In addition, a nanoemulsion containing P. bivalvis crude extracts was formulated using high-speed homogenization. The formulation was characterized in terms of pH, viscosity, particle size, polydispersity index, and entrapment efficiency. Furthermore, its stability was evaluated under accelerated conditions and at different storage temperatures (room temperature, 4 °C, and 45 °C). The results indicated that P. bivalvis extracts obtained using deionized water and 95% ethanol contained various phytochemical constituents, along with higher contents of total phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant, anti-glycation, and anti-lipid peroxidative activities, as well as the lowest fibroblast cytotoxicity, compared to extracts obtained with 1% HCl in 50% ethanol. The nanoemulsions loaded with P. bivalvis ethanolic extracts exhibited a reddish-orange color, whereas those containing P. bivalvis water extracts exhibited a reddish-purple coloration, depending on its pH value. These nanoemulsions demonstrated greater stability at low temperatures, with particle sizes within the nanoscale range and a narrow polydispersity index. These findings suggest that P. bivalvis extracts obtained from deionized water and 95% ethanol are potential active ingredients that were successfully incorporated into nanoemulsion-based cosmetics formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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15 pages, 2033 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Anti-Aging Properties of the Glycopeptide- and Glycoprotein-Enriched Fraction from a Cosmetic Variation of the Longevity Medicine, Gongjin-Dan

by Gwang Jin Lee, Jiwon Park, Hyeon Jun Jeon, Tae Heon Kim, Hyejin Lee, Seongsu Kang, Seung Jin Hwang, Nam Seo Son and Nae-Gyu Kang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030091 - 1 May 2025

Viewed by 561

Abstract

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the [...] Read more.

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the oriental medicine Gongjin-dan (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, deer antler, and musk), which has been used as a restorative drug for longevity. Enzyme-based extraction and chemical purification were used to obtain a mixed fraction (GEF) enriched in glycopeptides and glycoproteins from the five herbal materials. The chemical characteristics of GEF, including the carbohydrate groups attached to the peptides and proteins, the total carbohydrate and protein contents, and the composition of monosaccharides and amino acids were determined. The chemical characteristics that were significantly different from those of the extract, generally prepared in the same ratio, were the abundance of glycopeptides and glycoproteins and the high proportions of conditionally essential amino acids (51.0%) and acidic/basic amino acids (67.7%). These are necessary components for strengthening the skin layers against aging. The in vitro skin anti-aging properties of GEF on human fibroblasts (HS68), keratinocytes (HaCaT), and adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADMSCs) were evaluated. It was found that MMP-1 gene expression was inhibited (18–28%) and fibrillin-1 protein (23–37%) was restored contrary to the effect of UV irradiation. COL1A1 and COL4A1 gene expression (25–35%), HAS2 gene expression (22–213%), and adipogenesis (15%) were facilitated. These results demonstrate the potential of GEF as a raw material for skin anti-aging and reinforce the scientific evidence supporting a traditional medicine with a long history. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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