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Cosmetics, Volume 12, Issue 3 (June 2025) – 6 articles

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15 pages, 2033 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Anti-Aging Properties of the Glycopeptide- and Glycoprotein-Enriched Fraction from a Cosmetic Variation of the Longevity Medicine, Gongjin-Dan

by Gwang Jin Lee, Jiwon Park, Hyeon Jun Jeon, Tae Heon Kim, Hyejin Lee, Seongsu Kang, Seung Jin Hwang, Nam Seo Son and Nae-Gyu Kang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030091 (registering DOI) - 1 May 2025

Abstract

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the oriental medicine Gongjin-dan (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, deer antler, and musk), which has been used as a restorative drug for longevity. Enzyme-based extraction and chemical purification were used to obtain a mixed fraction (GEF) enriched in glycopeptides and glycoproteins from the five herbal materials. The chemical characteristics of GEF, including the carbohydrate groups attached to the peptides and proteins, the total carbohydrate and protein contents, and the composition of monosaccharides and amino acids were determined. The chemical characteristics that were significantly different from those of the extract, generally prepared in the same ratio, were the abundance of glycopeptides and glycoproteins and the high proportions of conditionally essential amino acids (51.0%) and acidic/basic amino acids (67.7%). These are necessary components for strengthening the skin layers against aging. The in vitro skin anti-aging properties of GEF on human fibroblasts (HS68), keratinocytes (HaCaT), and adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADMSCs) were evaluated. It was found that MMP-1 gene expression was inhibited (18–28%) and fibrillin-1 protein (23–37%) was restored contrary to the effect of UV irradiation. COL1A1 and COL4A1 gene expression (25–35%), HAS2 gene expression (22–213%), and adipogenesis (15%) were facilitated. These results demonstrate the potential of GEF as a raw material for skin anti-aging and reinforce the scientific evidence supporting a traditional medicine with a long history. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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23 pages, 6860 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetic Potential of Haberlea rhodopensis Extracts and Extracellular Vesicles in Human Fibroblast Cells

by Milena Georgieva, Bela Vasileva, Penyo Ivanov, Kamelia Hristova-Panusheva, Tsvetelina Paunova-Krasteva, Ivan Lesov, Zlatina Gospodinova, Natalia Krasteva, George Miloshev and Vasil Georgiev

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030090 (registering DOI) - 1 May 2025

Abstract

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological and functional changes. This study investigates the impact of Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts, native and enriched with EVs, on key cellular processes, including morphology, mitochondrial dynamics, lysosomal activity, gene expression, and genotoxicity in human dermal fibroblasts. The extracellular vesicles were identified in terms of shape, size, and morphology using dynamic light scattering, negative staining and observation under a transmission electron microscope. A comprehensive in vitro analysis was conducted utilizing light microscopy to assess cellular morphology and lysosomal mass, fluorescence microscopy for actin cytoskeletal organization, mitochondrial integrity, and nuclear morphology, and gene expression profiling for markers associated with collagen synthesis (COL1A1, COL3A1), senescence (CDKN1A), and oxidative stress response (NFE2L2). Additionally, cell cycle progression was evaluated, and genotoxicity was assessed using the neutral comet assay. Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and EVs were found to preserve fibroblast morphology, enhance mitochondrial mass, and upregulate collagen-related gene expression. These effects were concentration-dependent. The extracts exhibited biocompatibility with minimal genotoxic effects, indicating their potential as safe bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation. The findings suggest that Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and their enrichment with extracellular vesicles hold promise for cosmetic and dermatological applications, particularly in enhancing collagen production, preserving cellular integrity, and mitigating age-related alterations in skin fibroblasts. Further studies are warranted to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms and optimize formulation strategies for clinical translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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15 pages, 3082 KiB

Open AccessArticle

New Test Methods for Extractables in No-Wipe Topcoat Gel Polish: Extraction and Quantitation of Uncured Monomers After UV Curing

by Laurisa London-Dawodu, Xuejun J. Yin and Sunan Yuvavanich

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030089 (registering DOI) - 1 May 2025

Abstract

Background: Nail gels are decorative fingernail coatings based on (meth)acrylates that are photopolymerized on the nail surface. After polymerization, these coatings typically retain an uncured layer of monomers at the air interface due to oxygen inhibition, which may pose a risk of skin sensitization unless removed. No-wipe topcoats are formulated to address this issue by curing fully; however, no standard test method exists to verify a complete cure. This study presents a method to quantify residual uncured traces of several common nail gel monomers extracted from polymerized commercial no-wipe nail gels. Method: Commercially available no-wipe nail gels were formed into films of controlled thickness and polymerized using a standard UV-curing nail lamp. Solvent extraction was employed to eliminate residual uncured monomers, namely diethylene glycol dimethacrylate (DEGDMA), isobornyl acrylate (IBOA), and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA). These monomers were quantified utilizing GC-FID and HPLC techniques. Method validation was conducted with samples of known monomer identity and concentration, thereby establishing specificity, linearity, precision, and detection limits. Results: Validated test protocols were established for the analysis of residual uncured traces of three commonly used monomers in nail gel coatings. In all instances, levels of monomer residue in a cured gel coating were found to range from 56 µg/g to 800 µg/g. Tests conducted on commercial products indicated that levels of these monomers fell within the expected normal ranges for such products. Conclusions: Through the utilization of two chromatographic techniques, three analytical methods were established for the simultaneous determination of ingredient concentrations and residual monomer quantities in unreacted bulk formula and cured UV-gel film. These methods and the resultant data facilitate the evaluation of curing completeness, which is essential for product development and safety assessments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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16 pages, 4386 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of the Antioxidant Activity of Three Formulations of Hair Cosmetic Products Containing the Essential Oil of Clinopodium bolivianum (Benth.) Kuntze “inca muña”

by Raymí Celeste Obispo-Huamani, James Calva, Luis Miguel V. Félix-Veliz, Haydee Chávez, Josefa Bertha Pari-Olarte, Javier Hernán Chavez-Espinoza, Johnny Aldo Tinco-Jayo, Edwin Carlos Enciso-Roca and Oscar Herrera-Calderon

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030088 (registering DOI) - 28 Apr 2025

Viewed by 263

Abstract

Clinopodium bolivianum (Benth.) Kuntze, commonly known as muña, inca muña or koa, has traditionally been used for its medicinal properties in digestive disorders. Some studies have revealed its antioxidant potential and antibacterial activity. This study determined the volatile components, evaluated the antioxidant capacity of C. bolivianum essential oil and its incorporation into three hair cosmetic formulations: shampoo, combing cream, and capillary lotion. Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC–MS) confirmed pulegone as the main component, accounting for 66.85% of the essential oil. The antioxidant activity was assessed using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays, with Trolox (6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid) as a reference compound. The essential oil exhibited significant radical scavenging activity, with IC₅₀ values of 1344.0 ± 12.23 µg/mL for DPPH and 40.125 ± 1.25 µg/mL for ABTS. Among the formulated cosmetic products, the combing cream containing 0.5% of the essential oil demonstrated the highest antioxidant activity, with IC₅₀ values of 0.72 µg/mL (DPPH) and 0.068 µg/mL (ABTS). In contrast, the shampoo and capillary lotion showed lower antioxidant potential. The stability evaluation confirmed that all formulations maintained their physicochemical properties under accelerated conditions. These findings highlight the potential application of C. bolivianum essential oil as a natural antioxidant in cosmetic formulations, contributing to its protective and functional properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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17 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

Berry Fruit Extracts as Topical Cosmeceuticals for Skin Health Applications: A Systematic Review

by Filipe Silveira Azevedo, Allan Rodrigues Pires, Mary Ann Lila, Giuseppe Valacchi, Roberta Targino Hoskin, Mariaurea Matias Sarandy, Rômulo Dias Novaes and Reggiani Vilela Goncalves

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030087 - 23 Apr 2025

Viewed by 378

Abstract

Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which has been linked to their health-relevant properties. To gather information on the potential of berries for treating skin inflammatory diseases, this systematic review was conducted following PRISMA guidelines (PROSPERO registration number CRD 42024549567), based on studies from PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Embase. It focused on preclinical murine model studies, with bias and methodological quality assessed using SYRCLE’s RoB tool. Studies showed evidence that berries have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties due to compounds like anthocyanins, cyanidins, polyphenols, and catechins. Berry exposure reduced oxidative stress markers, such as malondialdehyde, carbonylated proteins, nitric oxide, 8-OHdG, and pyrimidine dimers. This stress reduction was associated with NF-κB and COX-2 pathway downregulation, lower IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α, and MAPK, and increased IL-10. Morphological outcomes included increased collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans and reduced metalloproteinases. Bias analysis revealed a low risk, suggesting reliable studies. Berry treatments improved wound healing and extracellular matrix (ECM) production, supporting their potential in pharmaceutical topical formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 3620 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Kv1.3 Ion Channels Mediate Electrical Stimulation-Induced Collagen Expression in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

by Catherine Obiajulu, Diem Nguyen, Kim Hoang Ngan Bui, Timothy Tran, Annamarie Vu, Cortney Ngo, Ian A. Slowinski, Kazuyuki Miyazawa and Katarzyna Slowinska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030086 - 23 Apr 2025

Viewed by 320

Abstract

Electrical stimulation of the skin has proven effective in pain management and antibacterial treatment, particularly in wound healing and counteracting the aging processes. The latter processes rely on epidermal cell migration, increased fibroblast proliferation, and upregulation of extracellular matrix protein expression. While an electrical field stimulates these processes, it is unclear how the electrical signal results in transcriptional control. Here, we postulate that the activation of voltage-gated channels, specifically voltage-gated potassium channels Kv1.3, is implicated in initiating the downstream signaling pathways that lead to increased collagen expression. We postulate that Kv1.3 and possibly calcium-activated potassium channel activity leads to the engagement of store-operated calcium channels and modulates the intracellular calcium ions distribution. In turn, changes in intracellular calcium concentration can activate calcium-generated transcriptional effectors. The Kv1.3 channel, identified via fluorescence imaging with ShK toxin (peptide), shows high-level expression in the human dermal fibroblast cell membrane. We also performed proliferation, collagen expression, and calcium imaging studies for variable electrical fields to help understand the link between the electrical stimulation, Kv1.3 channels, intracellular calcium concentration, and protein expression. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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