Cosmetics

25 pages, 9543 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Systematic Evaluation and Identification of Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Aging Ginseng Peptides for Skincare Applications

by Ze Xia, Wei Liu, Fanmo Zeng, Sining Kang, Junxiang Li, Wenfei Xu, Pingxiang Tang, Xinyi Zheng, Dandan Li, Xuebin Yang, Qing Sheng and Xuhui Li

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020085 - 21 Apr 2025

Viewed by 309

Abstract

This study explores the potential of ginseng-derived peptides (GPs) as multifunctional bioactive agents for skincare. Unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, we identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. In vitro [...] Read more.

This study explores the potential of ginseng-derived peptides (GPs) as multifunctional bioactive agents for skincare. Unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, we identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. In vitro assays revealed that ginseng peptide extract (GPE) reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α, IL-1β) in RAW264.7 macrophages while enhancing collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts (HSFs). Validation using 3D epidermal and dermal models further confirmed GPE’s ability to mitigate UV-induced damage, restore skin barrier proteins (filaggrin, loricrin), and increase collagen content. In addition, we screened 19 candidate peptides from ginseng extract using machine learning and prioritized their interaction with skin aging and inflammation-related targets. Three peptides (QEGIYPNNDLYRPK, VDCPTDDATDDYRLK, and ADEVVHHPLDKSSEVE) demonstrated significant collagen-promoting, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects in cellular models. These findings highlight the efficacy of computational approaches in identifying natural bioactive ingredients, positioning ginseng peptides as promising candidates for innovative cosmeceutical formulations targeting inflammaging and skin rejuvenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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10 pages, 1099 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Effects of Shampoo Containing Plantago asiatica L. on Hair Thickness, Density, and Shedding: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

by Jiyeon Lee, Ah-Reum Jung, Jun-Hwan Jang, Jun-Tae Bae and Wanil Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020084 - 17 Apr 2025

Viewed by 306

Abstract

This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated the efficacy of a shampoo containing Plantago asiatica L. on hair health in adults aged 20–60. Following a 4-week wash-out period, participants used either the test shampoo or a placebo for 12 weeks. Hair measurements using [...] Read more.

This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated the efficacy of a shampoo containing Plantago asiatica L. on hair health in adults aged 20–60. Following a 4-week wash-out period, participants used either the test shampoo or a placebo for 12 weeks. Hair measurements using phototrichograms and hair count tests were conducted at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, and 12. The test group demonstrated progressive improvements in hair strand thickness (0.009 mm, 0.017 mm, and 0.020 mm at weeks 4, 8, and 12, respectively) and hair density (0.9 hairs/cm² at weeks 4 and 8, 1.1 hairs/cm² at week 12). Additionally, a significant reduction in hair shedding was observed compared to the placebo group. These findings suggest that shampoo containing Plantago asiatica L. effectively improves hair thickness and density while reducing hair loss, offering a natural solution for hair care concerns. Full article

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17 pages, 6585 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Investigation of the Anti-Aging Effects of Composite Nanocarriers Based on Autophagy Regulation and Oxidative Stress Inhibition

by Min Liu, Lei Ye, Lingling Jiang, Xi Wang, Cui Sun, Jiuyan Zheng and Wei Liu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020083 - 17 Apr 2025

Viewed by 235

Abstract

Focusing on the anti-aging mechanism and efficient utilization of anti-aging active ingredients in the skin is an excellent strategy to mitigate aging. In this study, ribose/collagen/decarboxylated carnitine hydrochloride/palmitoyl tripeptide-1 composite nanocarriers (RCDP NCs) were synthesized using transdermal drug delivery nanotechnology. The drug delivery [...] Read more.

Focusing on the anti-aging mechanism and efficient utilization of anti-aging active ingredients in the skin is an excellent strategy to mitigate aging. In this study, ribose/collagen/decarboxylated carnitine hydrochloride/palmitoyl tripeptide-1 composite nanocarriers (RCDP NCs) were synthesized using transdermal drug delivery nanotechnology. The drug delivery of composite nanocarriers and the anti-aging mechanism of RCDP NCs were studied through transdermal behavior, cell uptake, cell proliferation, antioxidant enzyme activity, lipid oxidation product expression, β—galactosidase content, autophagy vesicle number, autophagy-related protein expression, and other indicators. The results showed that the composite nanocarriers on the skin could reach a dermal depth of 460.0 μm (4 h). The uptake of RCDP NCs by keratinocytes and fibroblasts increased by 47.37% and 89.11% (4 h), respectively. RCDP NCs promoted cell proliferation, enhanced the activities of the main antioxidant enzymes, and reduced the production of the lipid oxidation product malondialdehyde (MDA). Sequestosome-1 protein (p62) decreased, whereas both the ratio of microtubule-associated protein light chain 3 II/microtubule-associated protein light chain 3 I (LC3II/LC3I) and the number of autophagosomes increased, indicating that RCDP NCs promoted autophagy. The drug delivery nanotechnology in this study achieved better transdermal application of active ingredients, which could mitigate skin aging faster and more effectively. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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15 pages, 2115 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Hair Detangling Evaluation Method Using Section Detangling Rate

by Sang-Hun Song and Seong Kil Son

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020082 - 16 Apr 2025

Viewed by 317

Abstract

This study was conducted to objectively evaluate the degree of detangling needed to develop the effectiveness of cosmetic hair ingredients to prevent hair tangles. To evaluate the degree of hair tangling, the frictional force applied when combing the hair was measured. The tooth [...] Read more.

This study was conducted to objectively evaluate the degree of detangling needed to develop the effectiveness of cosmetic hair ingredients to prevent hair tangles. To evaluate the degree of hair tangling, the frictional force applied when combing the hair was measured. The tooth spacing of the comb used in the evaluation was examined, and it was confirmed that the 4 mm interval comb was suitable as there was a large difference in combability between different treatments and the deviation was small. To create samples to standardize hair tangles, spinning 25 cm or more of wet hair on a spinner for 5 min was found to be best for observing differences between treatments. In the case of hair shorter than 25 cm, tangles did not occur even when spun using a tool, but a suitable sample for evaluating tangles was obtained by rubbing the hair by hand about 15 times. When testing combability, the distance the comb moves until it reaches 9.8 N is considered to be proportional to the detangling efficacy, and the degree of tangling is evaluated based on the section detangling rate, which is the distance the comb travels to reach 9.8 N divided by the total tress length. As a result of evaluating the contact angle of tangled hair using an atomic force microscope (AFM) and a scanning electron microscope (SEM), it was found that the contact angle of the cuticle surface for the tangled part was larger than that of the straight part and the cuticle was damaged. After immersing tangled hair in rice bran extract containing six OH groups, the contact angle changed from 103° to 95°, which is the level of the straight part, and an increase in the section detangling rate of the hair was observed. As a result, it was suggested that the detangling efficacy could be evaluated by applying this evaluation method using the section detangling rate. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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14 pages, 579 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential of Essential Oil from Siparuna guianensis A. DC. (Siparunaceae) as an Antimicrobial Adjuvant in Topical Formulations

by Érica Luiz dos Santos, Juliana Mendes Franco Siqueira, Genilson da Silva de Jesus, Ana Camila Micheletti and Nídia Cristiane Yoshida

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020081 - 15 Apr 2025

Viewed by 252

Abstract

Essential oils have enormous versatility as sources of natural fragrances and as active agents in the cosmetic industry. Therefore, the chemical composition and antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of the essential oil from the fresh leaves of Siparuna guianensis A. DC. for cosmetic purposes [...] Read more.

Essential oils have enormous versatility as sources of natural fragrances and as active agents in the cosmetic industry. Therefore, the chemical composition and antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of the essential oil from the fresh leaves of Siparuna guianensis A. DC. for cosmetic purposes were analyzed. The GC/MS technique was used to analyze the essential oil and the major constituents found were the sesquiterpenes bicyclogermacrene (32.52%), germacrene D (21.60%), and germacrene B (6.84%) and the monoterpene myrcene (3.66%). The antioxidant activity of the essential oil was evaluated using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical sequestering method and the assay based on the oxidation of 2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS). The antioxidant potential of the essential oil was not evidenced in both tests. In vitro tests showed that the studied essential oil, when combined with the antibiotic ampicillin, demonstrated a synergistic effect against clinically resistant Staphylococcus aureus and XDR S. epidermidis strains and an additive effect against S. pseudointermedius and MDR S. epidermidis. On the other hand, the combination of essential oil with gentamicin resulted in synergism when tested against S. epidermidis and an additive effect when evaluated against XDR S. epidermidis. Topical products formulated on the basis of these results exhibited activity against resistant S. epidermidis, demonstrating that the essential oil can act as a valuable ingredient to restore the efficacy of antibiotics against multidrug-resistant bacteria, in addition to improving the olfactory characteristics of the final product. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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17 pages, 11922 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessing Skin Photoprotection in the Infrared Range: The Reflectance Profiles of Cold-Pressed Plant Oils

by Elżbieta Mickoś, Monika Michalak, Magdalena Hartman-Petrycka, Anna Banyś, Paula Babczyńska, Robert Koprowski and Sławomir Wilczyński

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020080 - 14 Apr 2025

Viewed by 322

Abstract

The harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin are known and scientifically proven, with recent studies indicating that not only ultraviolet (UV) radiation but also infrared (IR) radiation contributes to skin photoaging and increases the risk of carcinogenesis. Infrared radiation is also [...] Read more.

The harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin are known and scientifically proven, with recent studies indicating that not only ultraviolet (UV) radiation but also infrared (IR) radiation contributes to skin photoaging and increases the risk of carcinogenesis. Infrared radiation is also responsible for the degradation of protective carotenoids in the skin, the disruption of calcium homeostasis, and the activation of apoptosis pathways. The biological mechanisms underlying these effects include an increased level of reactive oxygen species and increased expression of metalloproteinases in the skin. The aim of this study was to evaluate the photoprotective properties of 10 cold-pressed plant oils in the infrared spectral range from 1000 nm to 2500 nm by assessing their impact on the directional–hemispherical reflectance (DHR) of human skin after their topical application. This study was conducted in vivo on the skin of 12 volunteers, with non-invasive DHR measurements taken before and directly after the application of the oil and 30 min later. Additionally, the correlation between the oil’s compounds (chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, lycopene, and β-carotene) and antioxidant activity, expressed as the DPPH free radical scavenging capacity, was analyzed in relation to the differences in the skin’s DHR observed. An interesting result was obtained in the context of protecting the skin against IR radiation. A statistically significant increase in the skin’s reflectance after the penetration of the oil (p < 0.05) was observed in the 1700–2500 nm range for the chokeberry, fig, pomegranate, and perilla oils, suggesting their potential as photoprotective agents against IR. These findings indicate that chokeberry, fig, pomegranate, and perilla oils may serve as ingredients in cosmetic formulations designed for broad-spectrum skin photoprotection, complementing traditional UV filters with additional protection against infrared radiation. However, further research is needed to confirm these findings in a larger population. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 1258 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Oral Intake of Specific Bovine-Derived Bioactive Collagen Peptides Has a Stimulatory Effect on Dermal Matrix Synthesis and Improves Various Clinical Skin Parameters

by Ehrhardt Proksch, Denise Zdzieblik and Steffen Oesser

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020079 - 14 Apr 2025

Viewed by 811

Abstract

Collagen products are widely marketed for skin improvement. This study evaluated the efficacy of VERISOL B in relation to key skin aging parameters. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 66 women (aged 35–55) were randomized to receive either 2.5 g of bovine-derived bioactive collagen [...] Read more.

Collagen products are widely marketed for skin improvement. This study evaluated the efficacy of VERISOL B in relation to key skin aging parameters. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 66 women (aged 35–55) were randomized to receive either 2.5 g of bovine-derived bioactive collagen peptides (SCPs) (n = 33) or a placebo (n = 33) daily for 8 weeks. Their eye wrinkle volume, skin elasticity, and hydration were objectively measured at baseline (X₀), 4 weeks (X₄), and 8 weeks (X₈). Additionally, the SCPs’ impact on type I collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan biosynthesis was assessed in human dermal fibroblasts. The SCP supplementation significantly (p < 0.05) reduced their eye wrinkle volume and improved their skin elasticity and hydration within 4 weeks. After 8 weeks of treatment, the positive effects were even more pronounced for all of the clinical parameters measured (p < 0.05). The fibroblast experiments confirmed the SCPs’ stimulatory impact on dermal metabolism (p < 0.05). In conclusion, oral SCP supplementation effectively reduced wrinkles and enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, likely by promoting extracellular matrix biosynthesis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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28 pages, 12955 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Functional Performance and Safety Evaluation of Optimized Plant-Based Dye Mixtures for Intense Hair Coloration

by Kodpaka Lueadnakrob, Saranya Juntrapirom, Thitiphorn Rongthong, Watchara Kanjanakawinkul and Wantida Chaiyana

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020078 - 14 Apr 2025

Viewed by 469

Abstract

This study aimed to develop a sustainable and safe alternative to chemical hair dyes by exploring the functional performance and safety evaluation of herbal mixtures. Natural dyes were extracted from Lawsonia inermis leaves, Clitoria ternatea flowers, and Indigofera tinctoria leaves using an eco-friendly [...] Read more.

This study aimed to develop a sustainable and safe alternative to chemical hair dyes by exploring the functional performance and safety evaluation of herbal mixtures. Natural dyes were extracted from Lawsonia inermis leaves, Clitoria ternatea flowers, and Indigofera tinctoria leaves using an eco-friendly extraction method with deionized water and ultrasonication. The ratios of these natural dyes were optimized using statistical tools, specifically Minitab, to determine the most effective formulation. The safety profiles and dyeing performance of individual dyes and their combinations were evaluated with a focus on color intensity, stability, and resistance to washing and light exposure. The optimal herbal mixture, with a ratio of 2:2:1:1 (L. inermis/C. ternatea/I. tinctoria/water), demonstrated the highest absorbance and lowest lightness, indicating the darkest color profile. When applied for 30 min, this herbal combination yielded a long-lasting and intense dark color. Further testing using the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test confirmed the favorable safety profile, and examination under a scanning electron microscope showed no damage to the hair cuticle, indicating that the herbal formulation is safer than chemical hair dyes. Therefore, this herbal mixture showed promise as an alternative to synthetic dyes, and further formulation development was suggested. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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24 pages, 774 KiB

Open AccessReview

New Perspectives on Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide as Inorganic UV Filters: Advances, Safety, Challenges, and Environmental Considerations

by Stephany Mayumi Araki and André Rolim Baby

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020077 - 11 Apr 2025

Viewed by 713

Abstract

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a primary risk factor for various skin disorders, including erythema, sunburn, and skin cancer. Sunscreens containing UV filters, categorized as organic or inorganic, are widely utilized to mitigate these effects. Among inorganic UV filters, titanium dioxide (TiO [...] Read more.

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a primary risk factor for various skin disorders, including erythema, sunburn, and skin cancer. Sunscreens containing UV filters, categorized as organic or inorganic, are widely utilized to mitigate these effects. Among inorganic UV filters, titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) are prominently used due to their favorable safety and achievable broad-spectrum protection profiles. This review focuses on the properties, safety, and efficacy of TiO₂ and ZnO in sunscreens, emphasizing their mechanisms of action, photostability, and impacts on human health and the environment. Key factors influencing their performance include particle size, surface coatings, and formulation pH. Despite recognized advantages, concerns about toxicity—particularly related to nanoparticle penetration and reactive oxygen species generation—highlight the need for robust safety assessments. Additionally, the environmental impacts of inorganic UV filters, including bioaccumulation and effects on aquatic ecosystems, warrant consideration. Advances in nanoparticle synthesis, bioactive compound integration, and environmentally friendly formulations offer pathways to enhance sunscreen efficacy and safety, providing opportunities for innovation in photoprotection. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 1265 KiB

Open AccessReview

On the Key Role of Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Emulsion-Based Cosmetics

by Matteo Franceschini, Fabio Pizzetti and Filippo Rossi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020076 - 11 Apr 2025

Viewed by 1429

Abstract

Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the [...] Read more.

Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the use of stabilizers that ensure a long lifetime under different conditions. In this framework a key role is related to rheology modifiers, which include all those raw ingredients added to achieve, among others, desirable inflow characteristics that would not be possible to gain in their absence. In this review, strong attention was dedicated to different polymers and formulation strategies to understand the key role of these ingredients, widely used in emulsion-based cosmetics formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 5515 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Human Induced Pluripotent Stem Cells-Derived Reconstructed Epidermal Skin Model as an Alternative Model for Skin Irritation

by Tong Xie, Wu Qiao, Tinghan Jia and Ken Kaku

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020075 - 10 Apr 2025

Viewed by 288

Abstract

The limited availability of primary normal human epidermal keratinocyte (NHEK) has hampered the large-scale implementation of skin models in biomedical, toxicological, and pharmaceutical research. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to establish an induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC)-derived epidermal skin model that is [...] Read more.

The limited availability of primary normal human epidermal keratinocyte (NHEK) has hampered the large-scale implementation of skin models in biomedical, toxicological, and pharmaceutical research. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to establish an induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC)-derived epidermal skin model that is not limited by donor type and cell lifespan, and evaluate whether it is equivalent to the primary NHEK-derived reconstructed epidermal skin model (RHE) for skin irritation testing. The results show that high expression of OCT4, SOX2, KLF4, c-MYC, and SSEA-4, TRA-1-60, TRA-1-81 indicated that iPSCs were successfully generated from human fibroblasts in vitro. The expression levels of ectoderm or KC marker genes CGB, IVL, KRT10, KRT14, TP63, and TBP were close to those of NHEKs. This result confirms that iPSCs were successfully differentiated into iPSC-KCs. The expression levels of iPSC-derived-RHE in FLG (60), AQP3 (151), CLDN1 (30.6), IVL (209), KRT5 (39.3), KRT10 (39.2), TSLP (99), IL-6 (53.1), IL-8 (79.4), and TNF-a (91.5) were significantly higher than those in RHE. These results indicate that iPSC-derived RHE has extremely strong vitality and renewal capacity. Meanwhile, there was no significant difference between iPSC-derived RHE and SkinEthic in predicting skin irritation, which means that our iPSC-derived RHE performed well in the test. iPSC-derived RHE can replace other skin models for skin irritation testing related to cosmetics. This technology has the potential to generate an unlimited number of genetically identical skin models and improve the reproducibility of experiments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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27 pages, 1232 KiB

Open AccessReview

Physicochemical Properties and Composition of Peristomal Skin Care Products: A Narrative Review

by Agnieszka Kulawik-Pióro, Małgorzata Miastkowska, Katarzyna Bialik-Wąs, Piotr Zelga and Anna Piotrowska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020074 - 9 Apr 2025

Viewed by 426

Abstract

People who have gone through stoma surgery face different problems and difficulties every day, although most of these issues improve significantly with time. The quality of life of ostomy patients has been proven to be strictly related to self-care ability. So, it is [...] Read more.

People who have gone through stoma surgery face different problems and difficulties every day, although most of these issues improve significantly with time. The quality of life of ostomy patients has been proven to be strictly related to self-care ability. So, it is essential for patients to properly maintain the ostomy site, including proper daily self-care and regeneration of the skin around the stoma, to avoid stoma-related complications. This review was undertaken using the PRISMA (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analysis) guidelines. The main aim of the literature review was to analyse and present the characteristics of medical products used in ostomy care currently existing on the market. The intervention and management of stoma problems with appliances and accessories are also summarised. This literature review is limited to a critical analysis of the scientific and professional literature and informational materials developed by manufacturers of stoma accessories. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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6 pages, 186 KiB

Open AccessConference Report

Artificial Intelligence Beauty Revolution—State of the Art and New Trends from the SCC78 Annual Meeting

by Angela R. Eppler and Hang Ma

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 73; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020073 - 9 Apr 2025

Viewed by 438

Abstract

The 78th Annual Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Scientific Meeting showcased the pivotal role of artificial intelligence (AI) in transforming the beauty and personal care industry. The session “AI Beauty Revolution” highlighted cutting-edge advancements, including AI-driven ingredient discovery, personalized product development, and sustainable [...] Read more.

The 78th Annual Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Scientific Meeting showcased the pivotal role of artificial intelligence (AI) in transforming the beauty and personal care industry. The session “AI Beauty Revolution” highlighted cutting-edge advancements, including AI-driven ingredient discovery, personalized product development, and sustainable practices. Key presentations explored applications such as computational tools for product benchmarking, precision prebiotics for microbiome modulation, and physics-based modeling combined with machine learning for antioxidant screening. The discussions emphasized the importance of combining AI insights with experimental validation to ensure accuracy and reliability while fostering innovation. As AI continues to drive personalization, efficiency, and sustainability in cosmetics, collaborative efforts across disciplines will remain crucial for realizing its full potential. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)

12 pages, 4292 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Photoprotective Effect and Potential Mechanisms of Gardeniae Fructus Extract in UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

by Kaile Zong, Xiang Li, Fangni Zhou, Junzi Dong, Qing Huang and Jianxin Wu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 72; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020072 - 9 Apr 2025

Viewed by 325

Abstract

Gardeniae Fructus (GF), the desiccative mature fruitage of Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis (G. jasminoides), is a traditional herbal medicine in China with potential value against skin photodamage. However, the phytochemical basis and mechanisms underlying GF’s anti-photodamage effects remain unclear. In this [...] Read more.

Gardeniae Fructus (GF), the desiccative mature fruitage of Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis (G. jasminoides), is a traditional herbal medicine in China with potential value against skin photodamage. However, the phytochemical basis and mechanisms underlying GF’s anti-photodamage effects remain unclear. In this study, the chemical components in GF extract (GFE) were analyzed using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS), and iridoids were identified as the main components. The antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and barrier-repair effects of GFE in UVB-induced photodamage were assessed through in vitro experiments. Additionally, the potential mechanisms of GFE against skin photodamage were predicted using proteomics and network pharmacology. The results showed that GFE significantly increased the levels of total superoxide dismutase (T-SOD), catalase (CAT), and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) induced by UVB, while decreasing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and malondialdehyde (MDA) contents. GFE also inhibited the secretion of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and interleukin-1β (IL-1β). Additionally, GFE upregulated the expression of filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and involucrin (IVL) in 3D epidermal skin models. Proteomic analysis and network pharmacology indicated that the iridoid components identified in GFE ameliorated UVB-induced damage probably by regulating cell cycle-related proteins and signaling pathways, though this requires further experimental confirmation. Overall, the results provide essential evidence to support the development of GFE as a skincare active ingredient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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16 pages, 3013 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Characterization of 3D Senescent Models Mimicking Skin Aging

by Loïc Pentecouteau, Céline Laperdrix, Emeline Rouxel, Annick Folligné, Pierre-Yves Morvan and Romuald Vallée

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020071 - 9 Apr 2025

Viewed by 343

Abstract

Aging, marked by a decline in cellular function and increased risk of diseases, involves the accumulation of senescent cells. This study aims to develop and characterize 3D senescent skin models to understand cellular senescence mechanisms’ implications in cutaneous aging. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes [...] Read more.

Aging, marked by a decline in cellular function and increased risk of diseases, involves the accumulation of senescent cells. This study aims to develop and characterize 3D senescent skin models to understand cellular senescence mechanisms’ implications in cutaneous aging. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were cultured from early to late passages (p2 to p7) to induce replicative senescence or sourced from both young and aged donors to reconstruct 3D models. Histological analyses assessed tissue morphology and integrity, while permeability assays evaluated epidermal barrier function. Analyses using immunostaining, RT-PCR, Affymetrix™ GeneChip™ Microarrays identified key markers of cellular senescence, epidermal homeostasis, and other related processes. Results showed that NHEKs at p5 and beyond, and those from aged donors, exhibited significant morphological disruptions, decreased expression of differentiation-associated genes, and impaired barrier function. Increased p16ink4a-positive cells indicated enhanced senescence. Transcriptome analysis revealed significant changes in keratinocyte differentiation, cell–cell interaction, cell cycle regulation, extracellular matrix homeostasis, and inflammation. These findings underscore the relevance of addressing cellular senescence for enhancing skin health and promoting skin longevity. These 3D senescent skin models, validated by consistent results from both passage-induced senescence and aged donor keratinocytes, are valuable for understanding skin aging and developing anti-aging treatments, positioning them as essential tools in the pursuit of skin longevity-focused innovations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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10 pages, 1704 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Jatrorrhizine Isolated from Phellodendron amurense Improves Collagen Homeostasis in CCD-986sk Human Dermal Fibroblast Cells

by Junhyo Cho

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 70; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020070 - 9 Apr 2025

Viewed by 268

Abstract

Jatrorrhizine is one of the major bioactive compounds found in Phellodendron amurense. Previous studies have reported various health benefits of jatrorrhizine, but little is known about its effect on skin health. In this study, jatrorrhizine isolated from Phellodendron amurense was used to [...] Read more.

Jatrorrhizine is one of the major bioactive compounds found in Phellodendron amurense. Previous studies have reported various health benefits of jatrorrhizine, but little is known about its effect on skin health. In this study, jatrorrhizine isolated from Phellodendron amurense was used to determine the impact on collagen homeostasis in CCD-986sk human dermal fibroblast cells. Jatrorrhizine did not show toxicity of up to 10 μM in CCD-986sk cells. Jatrorrhizine induced procollagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis by increasing the gene expression of collagen type I alpha 2, TIMP metallopeptidase inhibitor 1, transforming growth factor beta 1, and hyaluronan synthase 2. In addition, jatrorrhizine treatment inhibited the gene expression of matrix metallopeptidase 1 and matrix metallopeptidase 9 by increasing tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinase. Our results suggest that jatrorrhizine has the potential for application in therapeutic and cosmetic products to improve collagen homeostasis and prevent wrinkle formation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 1503 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Anti-Acne and Reduction of Hyperpigmentation Effects of Products Containing Retinol, Niacinamide, Ceramides, and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate in Chinese Women

by Zheng Kuai, Wenna Wang, Jiahong Yang, Xiaofeng He, Yi Yi, Hequn Wang, Yijie Zheng and Yunfei Ai

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020069 - 8 Apr 2025

Viewed by 730

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a dermatological condition characterized by the hyperkeratinization of sebaceous follicles, which can further lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Considering the intricate pathophysiology of acne, it is essential to develop novel topical therapies that are capable of targeting multiple underlying mechanisms of [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a dermatological condition characterized by the hyperkeratinization of sebaceous follicles, which can further lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Considering the intricate pathophysiology of acne, it is essential to develop novel topical therapies that are capable of targeting multiple underlying mechanisms of acne. The objective of this study was to study the effect of products containing retinol, niacinamide, ceramides, and dipotassium glycyrriszinate on acne-related markers. A total of 43 women with acne skin (including sensitive skin) were enrolled. To evaluate the effect of test products on acne-related indicators following 4 weeks of use, this study combined clinical assessments of skin condition (acne lesion counts), instrumental assessments (skin gloss), and photo tracking using VISIA-CR and Primos CR systems, which encompass metrics such as a*, ITA°, skin area (%) covered by sebum spots, and the presence of sebum spots. Adverse reactions were also assessed. After 4 weeks of treatment, significant reductions were observed in both the inflammatory acne lesion count and non-inflammatory acne lesion count, while there was also a significant decrease in skin redness a* and skin area (%) covered by sebum spots and a significant increase in skin brightness ITA° and gloss. No adverse events occurred during the entire testing process. In summary, the daily application of products containing retinol, niacinamide, and ceramides not only improves acne-related symptoms but also alleviates post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne, which suggests that such products have the potential to meet the dual needs of brightening and acne care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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27 pages, 11077 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate on UV-Induced Skin Ageing and Therapeutic Enhancement

by Yuan Wang, Xin Nie, Jiangming Zhong, Jing Wang, Lanyue Zhang and Peng Shu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 68; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020068 - 7 Apr 2025

Viewed by 428

Abstract

Skin photoageing remains a topic of considerable concern. Retinol (RT) and retinyl palmitate (RP) have shown preliminary therapeutic efficacy; nevertheless, the high irritation associated with RT and the relatively modest efficacy of RP have constrained their broader application. Consequently, this study explored the [...] Read more.

Skin photoageing remains a topic of considerable concern. Retinol (RT) and retinyl palmitate (RP) have shown preliminary therapeutic efficacy; nevertheless, the high irritation associated with RT and the relatively modest efficacy of RP have constrained their broader application. Consequently, this study explored the effects and biosafety of RT and RP in repairing UV-induced skin ageing through a series of in vitro cell experiments, in vitro hemolysis assays, UV-irradiated mouse models, and molecular simulation techniques. The findings revealed that the interaction between RT and RP achieved complementary and enhanced therapeutic outcomes. Specifically, this combination improved the biosafety profile of retinoid formulations, accelerated cell migration rates, and facilitated the activation of the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α (PPARα) pathway. Moreover, the action of RT and RP further mitigated epidermal hyperplasia, mast cell infiltration, and the expression levels of interleukin-1β (IL-1β), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and tumour necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), while stimulating the synthesis of type I collagen. Metabolomics and transcriptomics analyses indicated that RT and RP exerted complementary effects through metabolic pathways, significantly elevating the overall therapeutic efficacy. Network pharmacology and molecular docking studies unveiled that the structural similarity between RT and RP was one of the contributors to their enhancement. In conclusion, this study demonstrated that the combined application of RT and RP exhibited marked effects. Through their mutual action, they not only potentiated each other’s therapeutic effects but also achieved complementary and optimised therapeutic outcomes, thereby substantially enhancing the overall efficacy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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Graphical abstract

17 pages, 1604 KiB

Open AccessReview

Research Progress on the Exacerbation of Lipid Metabolism by Malassezia and Its Impact on the Skin Barrier Function

by Yating Cheng, Jianhang Cong, Jiahui Xu, Lifeng Tang, Ziyan Zhou, Xiaobin Yang, Yunfeng Hu, Yifang Li, Rongrong He and Qi Xiang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 67; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020067 - 3 Apr 2025

Viewed by 583

Abstract

The study of the fungal communities of the skin constitutes a pivotal component of skin microbiome research. Within these communities, the genus Malassezia stands out as a major constituent, representing 50% to 80% of the total fungal colonization on the skin of healthy [...] Read more.

The study of the fungal communities of the skin constitutes a pivotal component of skin microbiome research. Within these communities, the genus Malassezia stands out as a major constituent, representing 50% to 80% of the total fungal colonization on the skin of healthy individuals. The excessive growth or metabolic irregularities of this genus are intimately connected with the onset of various skin disorders that are intrinsically linked to its lipid-dependent nature. Cutaneous lipid metabolism is indispensable for maintaining the skin barrier function and skin health. Malassezia possesses the ability to encode multiple lipase genes, and the secretion of these lipases plays a pivotal role in the survival strategies of the fungi. This review explores recent advances in the ecological niche of Malassezia in skin microecological homeostasis, its mechanism of disrupting skin lipids through catabolic metabolites, and the relationship between this disruption of the skin lipid barrier and skin diseases. This review offers a reference for future research on the mechanisms by which Malassezia affects lipid metabolism and provides a theoretical foundation for the development of innovative therapeutic approaches for dermatological conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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13 pages, 1874 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Sebum Control and Safety for Daily Use of a Cosmetic Elastomer Formulated with Vegetable Oils from Peruvian Biodiversity

by Patricia Lozada, Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco, Ana María Muñoz and Jorge Rojas

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020066 - 2 Apr 2025

Viewed by 480

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation [...] Read more.

This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation index and the Sebumeter^® SM 815 from Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Cologne, Germany. Sebum control efficacy was determined in three groups of volunteers seated in a room at a temperature of 26 ± 1 °C. The forehead area was divided into two sections: one received the cosmetic elastomer while the other area received no product. The elastomer significantly reduced sebum levels in all three groups at 2, 4, and 5 h (p < 0.05) compared to the untreated area, and the third group exhibited higher sebum reductions, with 43.48%, 52.43%, and 43.95%, respectively. In conclusion, the dermatologically tested and safe cosmetic product contains a balanced combination of active ingredients that effectively control sebum levels, resulting in visibly oil-free skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 2542 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Characterisation of Personal Hygiene Gels Containing a Gypsophila Trichotoma Extract and Xanthium Strumarium Essential Oil

by Aleksandar Shkondrov, Denitsa Momekova, Maya Margaritova Zaharieva, Hristo Najdenski, Ekaterina Kozuharova and Ilina Krasteva

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020065 - 31 Mar 2025

Viewed by 240

Abstract

The aim was to develop a series of handwashing gels containing a standardised extract of the aerial part of Gypsophila trichotoma as well as an essential oil from Xanthium strumarium fruits. The saponins present in the extract are a suitable alternative to synthetic [...] Read more.

The aim was to develop a series of handwashing gels containing a standardised extract of the aerial part of Gypsophila trichotoma as well as an essential oil from Xanthium strumarium fruits. The saponins present in the extract are a suitable alternative to synthetic sulphate surfactants and have better skin tolerance, and with the addition of essential oil, a higher antibacterial activity of the gels thus developed is achieved. The elaborated gels were characterised by good spreadability and a pH close to the physiological for healthy skin (pH 5.5), which is a prerequisite for improved skin tolerability. The dynamic rheological studies showed that the extract fraction increase was not associated with gel viscosity change, and it was only a function of the gelling agent concentration. The gels’ foam-forming ability increased with the increasing extract concentrations. The comparative evaluation of the antibacterial activity of elaborated gels vs. plain gel based on coco glucoside against a panel of selected pathogens demonstrated that the newly developed formulations have superior antibacterial effects. Based on the good technological characteristics and the results of antimicrobial testing of the washing gels thus developed, it can be concluded that they are promising candidates as personal hygiene products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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17 pages, 8388 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Culture Medium-Based and Topical Anti-Pollution Treatments on PM-Induced Skin Damage Using a Human Ex Vivo Model

by Kanyakorn Namchantra, Ratjika Wongwanakul and Wannita Klinngam

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020064 - 31 Mar 2025

Viewed by 286

Abstract

Particulate matter (PM) is a significant pollutant that induces oxidative stress, inflammation, and structural skin damage, contributing to premature aging and reduced skin integrity. In this study, PM was applied topically to human ex vivo skin tissues to simulate real-world exposure, while test [...] Read more.

Particulate matter (PM) is a significant pollutant that induces oxidative stress, inflammation, and structural skin damage, contributing to premature aging and reduced skin integrity. In this study, PM was applied topically to human ex vivo skin tissues to simulate real-world exposure, while test compounds were delivered using the culture medium to mimic systemic absorption or applied topically for direct surface treatment. Culture medium-based treatments included indomethacin, L-ascorbic acid, and rapamycin, whereas topical treatment involved retinol and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). PM exposure increased hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), interleukin 6 (IL-6), matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and prostaglandin E₂ (PGE-2), while decreasing collagen type I and hyaluronic acid (HYA). Culture medium-based treatments improved collagen and reduced MMP-1 and COX-2 expression, with L-ascorbic acid and rapamycin lowering PGE-2, and indomethacin and rapamycin restoring HYA. L-ascorbic acid uniquely reduced IL-6. Topical treatments, including retinol and EGCG, effectively reduced H₂O₂ and MMP-1 and restored collagen type I. While both agents exhibited antioxidant activity, retinol further reduced IL-6, emphasizing its anti-inflammatory role. These results highlight the complementary protective effects of systemic-like and topical treatments in mitigating PM-induced skin damage. Future research should optimize protocols and validate efficacy under real-world conditions to enhance skin protection in polluted environments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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29 pages, 1199 KiB

Open AccessReview

Exhaustive Analytical Profiling of Phytocompounds in Botanical Active Ingredients: Fighting the Global Prevalence of Adulterated Botanical Ingredients for Cosmetics

by Jean-Marie Botto, Loïc Loffredo, Gopinathan K. Menon, Pierre Champy and Francis Hadji-Minaglou

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020063 - 31 Mar 2025

Viewed by 1785

Abstract

Traditional herbal medicine, ethnopharmacology, and evidence-based phytotherapy inspire the development of botanical active ingredients for cosmetics. Ensuring their authenticity and quality is essential in guaranteeing the safety and efficacy of cosmetic formulations. However, the industry faces challenges related to adulteration and inconsistent verification [...] Read more.

Traditional herbal medicine, ethnopharmacology, and evidence-based phytotherapy inspire the development of botanical active ingredients for cosmetics. Ensuring their authenticity and quality is essential in guaranteeing the safety and efficacy of cosmetic formulations. However, the industry faces challenges related to adulteration and inconsistent verification practices. Adulteration can occur at both the crude raw material stage and during processing, involving misidentification, contamination, or the addition of unauthorized substances. This review emphasizes the need for robust authentication methods, including botanical identification, genetic testing, and phytochemical/metabolomic profiling. Analytical tools such as UV/VIS spectroscopy, HPTLC, GC-MS, HPLC/UHPLC, and isotope analysis provide complementary data for detecting and addressing adulteration. Adulteration jeopardizes product safety, efficacy, regulatory compliance, and consumer trust, while dilutions or substitutions erode the intended health benefits. A standardized, comprehensive approach across the supply chain—from raw material sourcing to extract manufacturing—is critical for maintaining the integrity of botanical ingredients. Cosmetovigilance and nutrivigilance are crucial aspects of ensuring product safety and compliance. This review presents a novel perspective by highlighting that, while the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries have long recognized the risks of botanical adulteration, awareness in the cosmetics industry remains limited. It further integrates recent advancements in metabolomic profiling, global regulatory challenges, and the economic implications of botanical adulteration in cosmetics. Future developments in AI-driven authentication technologies may represent a promising solution for addressing evolving challenges in product safety and traceability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unveiling the Biological Properties of Rosa rubiginosa L. Leaf Extract as a Bio-Functional Ingredient Based on 2D Cell-Based Models and In Vitro Assessments

by Sophia Letsiou, Aliki Tsakni, Dionysis Antonopoulos, Alexandros Tsoupras and Dimitra Houhoula

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020062 - 31 Mar 2025

Viewed by 346

Abstract

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as [...] Read more.

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as a bio-functional agent in cosmeceuticals or nutraceuticals. The Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract demonstrated strong scavenging activity and high phenolic content protection while also preventing DNA breakage. At the molecular level, ATP determination revealed that the Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf confers cell viability even under oxidative stress. Gene expression analysis uncovered its protective effects on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory response under oxidative stress induced by UVA irradiation. These findings suggest that Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract provides significant in vitro biological properties in cell-based models, offering new insights into its potential benefits and underscoring its bio-functional role. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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12 pages, 1818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Cell Phototoxicity and Photoprotection Study of Agro-Derived Lignin and Nanocellulose

by Juliana Varella Cruz, Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Julia Salles Gava, Washington Luiz Esteves Magalhães, Danielle Palma de Oliveira, Daniela Morais Leme, Montserrat Mitjans and Maria Pilar Vinardell

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020061 - 28 Mar 2025

Viewed by 330

Abstract

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy [...] Read more.

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy and safety parameters, such as their photoprotection mechanisms and phototoxicity, need to be investigated. Therefore, two kraft lignin fractions, LE and R1, along with a kraft-bleached pulp CNF, were evaluated for their phototoxicity and photoprotection mechanisms, both using the HaCaT cell line (immortalized human keratinocytes) as the in vitro model. Phototoxicity assessment involved exposing cells to UVA radiation (4 J/cm²), with the subsequent comparison of cell viability between irradiated and non-irradiated samples. ROS quantification was performed using a 2′,7′-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCF-DA) probe, with fluorescence intensity measurements, and was then used to evaluate the photoprotection effect. The results demonstrated that both LE and R1 exhibited concentration-dependent increases in phototoxicity, whereas CNF showed no phototoxic effects under the conditions tested. For photoprotection, LE, R1, and CNF reduced UV-induced ROS production, a result which could be associated with antioxidant properties in the case of the lignin fractions. These findings suggest that both lignin fractions and CNF hold promise for use in renewable and sustainable cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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1 pages, 111 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Cosmetics: Three New Journal Sections Established

by Enzo Berardesca

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020060 - 28 Mar 2025

Viewed by 209

Abstract

The journal Cosmetics is a platform dedicated to the science and technology of cosmetics [...] Full article

17 pages, 4807 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Recombinant Type XVII Collagen Inhibits EGFR/MAPK/AP-1 and Activates TGF-β/Smad Signaling to Enhance Collagen Secretion and Reduce Photoaging

by Ying He, Shiyu Yin, Ru Xu, Yan Zhao, Yuhang Du, Zhiguang Duan and Daidi Fan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020059 - 27 Mar 2025

Viewed by 419

Abstract

Studies have consistently shown that long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation triggers skin photoaging, which is evident as reduced elasticity, a loss of firmness, and signs of aging. There is an urgent need to investigate photoaging mechanisms to devise protective strategies against UVA. The [...] Read more.

Studies have consistently shown that long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation triggers skin photoaging, which is evident as reduced elasticity, a loss of firmness, and signs of aging. There is an urgent need to investigate photoaging mechanisms to devise protective strategies against UVA. The present study aimed to explore the effects of recombinant type XVII collagen on UVA-induced skin aging and uncover its molecular mechanisms, thereby laying a solid theoretical foundation for precise treatments and prevention. We therefore modeled photoaging damage in HaCaT cells and evaluated collagen-related protein and gene expression levels via western blot analysis and real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction analysis. Immunofluorescent staining was also used to assess collagen secretion and basement membrane protein expression. Recombinant type XVII collagen significantly boosted type IV and type XVII collagen, laminin alpha 5, and integrin β1 production, thus counteracting UVA-induced collagen decline. The polymerase chain reaction analysis revealed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) downregulation and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP) upregulation. Modulating the transforming growth factor (TGF)-β/Smad and epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR)/mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) pathways suppressed photoaging. Together, our findings suggest that recombinant type XVII collagen ameliorates UVA-induced damage by reversing MMP and TIMP gene expression, thereby preventing collagen degradation and enhancing basement membrane secretion. These results offer a theoretical basis for potent anti-photoaging products, thus paving the way for innovative solutions against UVA-induced skin aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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21 pages, 3547 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel, Multifunctional, Natural-Based Emollient: An Exhaustive Characterization of Sharofeel DS

by Francesco Puzzo, Melania Di Liberto, Gabriele Valente, Roberta Maria Donadelli, Giangiacomo Beretta and Fabrizio Gelmini

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020058 - 27 Mar 2025

Viewed by 318

Abstract

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone [...] Read more.

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone emollients). The new entity was synthesized from naturally derived reactants and designed to be utilized in different cosmetic applications, such as skin care, hair care, and makeup. Methods: The emollient was characterized on the basis of its physical properties (Ultraviolet/Infrared (UV/IR) analysis, density, dynamic viscosity, refractive index, surface tension, and contact angle), calorimetric properties by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential scanning calorimetry analysis (DSC), viscoelastic properties as is and in emulsion, and toxicity tests. According to the results obtained, DS demonstrated density (0.881 g/mL) and viscosity (86 cPs) values comparable to fatty alcohol emollients, with a refractive index (1.457) comparable to fatty alcohol and ester-based emollients and a surface tension (22.53 mN/m ± 0.11 mN/m) similar to the ester-based ones. It proved stable below 308 °C and capable of reducing the loss of internal water from hair strands (−7.5% w/w). Lastly, the toxicity tests proved that DS is safe for topical skincare, haircare, and makeup applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 3796 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring Skin Longevity Pathways: Rosa hybrid Extract-Mediated AMP-Activated Protein Kinase Activation, Antioxidant, and Autophagic Mechanisms in Human Keratinocytes

by Olivier Gouin, Andrea Cavagnino, Gayané Azadiguian, Sibylle Jäger, Gilles Comte, Mohammed Bendahmane, Lionel Breton, Martin A. Baraibar and Annie F. Black

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020057 - 25 Mar 2025

Viewed by 344

Abstract

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with [...] Read more.

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with RE exhibited a significant increase in NRF2 (NF-E2-related factor 2; ≈2–4% of induction) and LAMP2A (Lysosome-Associated Membrane Protein 2A; ≈6–12% of induction) levels. The presence of RE significantly mitigated the increase in carbonylation levels (≈34–37% of protection) and the number of labeled P16^INK4A cells (≈60–72% of protection), associated with proliferation arrest, both induced by exposure to BAP (Benzo[a]pyrene) coupled with UV-A (Ultraviolet A) irradiation. The beneficial effects mediated by RE were inhibited by Compound C, a specific AMPK inhibitor (AMP-activated protein kinase). The involvement of the AMPK pathway in mediating the beneficial effects of RE has been confirmed by assessing its activation through the evaluation of its phosphorylation state which was significantly elevated in the presence of RE compared to the stress condition. In conclusion, the activation of the AMPK pathway enhances antioxidant defenses and promotes autophagy. This dual action, mediated by RE, helps protect skin cells from oxidative damage and senescence while maintaining proteostasis, skin integrity, and cellular proliferation under pollution-induced stress (BAP + UV-A). These findings highlight the potential in mitigating age-related skin changes through the modulation of longevity pathways. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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22 pages, 1270 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessment of Sustainability Indicators for Cosmetic Product Packaging in the DACH Region

by Michelle Klein, Anna Oleynikova, Charlotte Neumair, Manfred Tacker and Silvia Apprich

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 56; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020056 - 24 Mar 2025

Viewed by 313

Abstract

The rapid expansion of the cosmetic products market, growing consumer eco-consciousness, and stricter packaging regulations, such as the PPWR, present significant challenges for the cosmetic industry. To assess the sustainability of cosmetic packaging, a benchmarking study was conducted across various product categories available [...] Read more.

The rapid expansion of the cosmetic products market, growing consumer eco-consciousness, and stricter packaging regulations, such as the PPWR, present significant challenges for the cosmetic industry. To assess the sustainability of cosmetic packaging, a benchmarking study was conducted across various product categories available in the DACH region (Germany, Austria, and Switzerland) using a set of selected indicators. The findings highlight an urgent need for action to ensure compliance with future PPWR requirements. While glass and aluminum packaging demonstrated high recyclability, plastic tubes often failed to meet the 70% recyclability target due to incompatible material combinations. Key barriers to recyclability included material incompatibility, metallization, and excessive colorization. Additionally, the use of recycled content in plastic and paper-based packaging was generally low, with only a few samples containing secondary materials. Other critical issues included packaging efficiency, the widespread use of secondary packaging, and use of uncertified renewable materials. Addressing these challenges will require industry-wide efforts to enhance material compatibility, increase recycled content, and optimize packaging design for greater sustainability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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