Cosmetics

17 pages, 1310 KiB

Open AccessReview

Lip Photoprotection Patents (2014–2024): Key Trends and Emerging Technologies

by Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Ana Sofia Guerrero Casas, Leonardo Castellanos, Mairim Russo Serafini and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 161; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040161 - 29 Jul 2025

Viewed by 287

Abstract

The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific [...] Read more.

The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific sun protection products remains underexplored. This study aims to analyze technological trends and innovations in lip photoprotection by reviewing patents published between 2014 and 2024. A comprehensive patent search using the IPC code A61Q19 and the keywords “lip” and “sunscreen” identified 17 relevant patents across China, the United States, and Japan. The patents were examined for active ingredients, formulation strategies, and use of botanical or sustainable excipients. The findings revealed that patented formulations predominantly rely on well-established UV filters such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, often combined with antioxidants like ferulic acid and rutin for enhanced efficacy. Lipid-based excipients were widely used to improve texture, hydration, and product stability. Although many formulations exhibit a conservative ingredient profile, the strategic combination of UV filters with natural antioxidants and moisturizing lipids demonstrates a multifunctional approach aimed at enhancing both protection and user experience. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 949 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring the Antioxidant and Preservative Potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth Essential Oil in Pure and Encapsulated Forms for Cosmetic Applications

by M. Fernanda Lopes, Sandra M. Gomes, Wanderley P. Oliveira and Lúcia Santos

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 160; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040160 - 28 Jul 2025

Viewed by 353

Abstract

The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study [...] Read more.

The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study aimed to evaluate the preservative and antioxidant potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth essential oil, in pure and encapsulated in β-cyclodextrin form, for cosmetic applications. The EO exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with low IC₅₀ values in DPPH and ABTS assays, and demonstrated antimicrobial efficacy, particularly against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. Six cosmetic cream formulations were developed and tested for physicochemical and microbiological stability. Formulations with pure EO maintained high antioxidant performance and remained free of bacterial and fungal contamination over time, outperforming the commercial preservatives. In contrast, formulations with encapsulated EO exhibited delayed antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, indicating gradual release. Overall, Lippia origanoides EO proved to be an effective natural alternative to synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This approach aligns with the current trend of eco-friendly formulations, offering a sustainable solution by incorporating plant-derived bioactives into cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 1425 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Blackberry (Rubus spp. Xavante Cultivar) Oil-Loaded PCL Nanocapsules: Sustainable Bioactive for In Vitro Collagen-Boosting Skincare

by Daniela F. Maluf, Brenda A. Lopes, Mariana D. Miranda, Luana C. Teixeira, Ana P. Horacio, Amanda Jansen, Madeline S. Correa, Guilherme dos Anjos Camargo, Jessica Mendes Nadal, Jane Manfron, Patrícia M. Döll-Boscardin and Paulo Vitor Farago

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 159; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040159 - 25 Jul 2025

Viewed by 343

Abstract

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was [...] Read more.

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was characterized by Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and incorporated into PCL nanocapsules (NCBSO) using the preformed polymer deposition method. Physicochemical properties, stability (at 4 °C, room temperature, and 37 °C for 90 days), cytotoxicity, and collagen production were assessed in human fibroblasts. Additionally, a predictive in silico analysis using PASS Online, Molinspiration, and SEA platforms was performed to identify the bioactivities of major BSO compounds related to collagen synthesis, antioxidant potential, and anti-aging effects. Results: NCBSO showed a nanometric size of ~267 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), negative zeta potential (−28 mV), and spherical morphology confirmed by FE-SEM. The dispersion remained stable across all tested temperatures, preserving pH and colloidal properties. In particular, BSO and NCBSO at 100 µg.mL⁻¹ significantly enhanced in vitro collagen production by 170% and 200%, respectively, compared to untreated cells (p < 0.01). Superior bioactivity was observed for NCBSO. The in silico results support the role of key compounds in promoting collagen biosynthesis and protecting skin structure. No cytotoxic effects were achieved. Conclusions: The nanoencapsulation of BSO into PCL nanocapsules ensured formulation stability and potentiated collagen production. These findings support the potential of NCBSO as a promising candidate for future development as a collagen-boosting cosmeceutical. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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13 pages, 1520 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Dynamic vs. Static Light Scattering: Evaluating the Tandem Use of Dynamic Light Scattering and Optical Microscopy as an Attractive Alternative for Oleosomes Size Characterization

by Idit Yuli, Lotan Ben Yakov, Ariel Gliksberg and Paul Salama

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 158; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040158 - 25 Jul 2025

Viewed by 277

Abstract

Accurate characterization of oleosome particle size distribution is needed for understanding their functionality in various applications. Traditionally, high-cost methods such as static laser diffraction and confocal or electron microscopy have been used. The current study presents a cost-effective alternative by combining optical microscopy [...] Read more.

Accurate characterization of oleosome particle size distribution is needed for understanding their functionality in various applications. Traditionally, high-cost methods such as static laser diffraction and confocal or electron microscopy have been used. The current study presents a cost-effective alternative by combining optical microscopy (OM) with image analysis and dynamic light scattering (DLS) to evaluate particle size distribution in safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oleosomes. Monodisperse and polydisperse standards (2 µm and 1–10 µm, respectively) were selected to validate instrument performance. The use of a smaller cuvette with a shorter path length in DLS extended its detection capabilities by minimizing multiple scattering and thermal effects. DLS and OM produced relatively consistent results, accurate particles’ diameters and distribution widths that agreed well with the standards. In contrast, static light scattering (SLS) showed strong sensitivity to the weighting method used (by number vs. by volume). In the case of polydisperse standard, volume-weighted SLS overestimated the particle size and yielded a broader distribution with a span of 2.2 compared to a span value of 0.8 as reported by the supplier. These findings highlight the importance of method selection and demonstrate the potential of combining DLS and OM as a practical and reliable approach for oleosome characterization. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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20 pages, 954 KiB

Open AccessReview

Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetic Formulation: Predictive Modeling for Safety, Tolerability, and Regulatory Perspectives

by Antonio Di Guardo, Federica Trovato, Carmen Cantisani, Annunziata Dattola, Steven P. Nisticò, Giovanni Pellacani and Alessia Paganelli

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 157; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040157 - 24 Jul 2025

Viewed by 558

Abstract

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, [...] Read more.

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, and prebiotics. These technologies are employed to forecast critical properties such as texture, stability, and shelf-life, optimizing both product performance and user experience. The integration of computational toxicology and ML algorithms also allows for early prediction of skin sensitization risks, including the likelihood of adverse events such as allergic contact dermatitis. Furthermore, AI models can support efficacy assessment, bridging formulation science with dermatological outcomes. The article also addresses the ethical, regulatory, and safety challenges associated with AI in cosmetic science, underlining the need for transparency, accountability, and harmonized standards. The potential of AI to reshape dermocosmetic innovation is vast, but it must be approached with robust oversight and a commitment to user well-being. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 8559 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Recombinant Type XVII Collagen Promotes Hair Growth by Activating the Wnt/β-Catenin and SHH/GLI Signaling Pathways

by Yuyao Zhang, Shiyu Yin, Ru Xu, Jiayu Xiao, Rui Yi, Jiahui Mao, Zhiguang Duan and Daidi Fan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040156 - 23 Jul 2025

Viewed by 524

Abstract

(1) Background: As society progresses, increasing numbers of individuals are experiencing hair loss, which can be attributed to factors such as unhealthy diets, insufficient sleep, stress, and hormonal imbalances. Currently available pharmacological treatments for hair loss often cause undesirable side effects, highlighting the [...] Read more.

(1) Background: As society progresses, increasing numbers of individuals are experiencing hair loss, which can be attributed to factors such as unhealthy diets, insufficient sleep, stress, and hormonal imbalances. Currently available pharmacological treatments for hair loss often cause undesirable side effects, highlighting the urgent need to explore safer and more effective agents to promote hair restoration. This study investigated the role of recombinant human type XVII collagen derived from the α1 chain (rhCOL17A1) in facilitating hair growth and restoration. (2) Methods: We analyzed the impact of rhCOL17A1 on the mRNA expression of several growth factors, as well as Bcl-2 and Bax, at the cellular level. Moreover, the effects of rhCOL17A1 on the expression of key proteins in the Wnt/β-catenin and Sonic Hedgehog (SHH)/GLI signaling pathways were examined by Western blotting (WB). At the organismal level, we established a model in C57BL/6 mice through chronic subcutaneous administration of 5% testosterone propionate. We subsequently assessed the effect of rhCOL17A1 on hair regrowth via histological analysis using hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining and immunofluorescence staining. (3) Results: rhCOL17A1 contributes to the resistance of hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) to apoptosis. rhCOL17A1 activates the Wnt/β-catenin and SHH/GLI signaling pathways, and increases the expression of type XVII collagen (COLXVII), thereby creating a favorable environment for hair growth. Furthermore, rhCOL17A1 exerts a significant growth-promoting effect at the animal level. (4) Conclusions: rhCOL17 promotes hair growth by activating the Wnt/β-catenin and SHH/GLI signaling pathways and upregulating COLXVII expression. Full article

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15 pages, 1669 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Prospective Evaluation of a Thermogenic Topical Cream-Gel Containing Caffeine, Genistein, and Botanical Extracts for the Treatment of Moderate to Severe Cellulite

by Vittoria Giulia Bianchi, Matteo Riccardo Di Nicola, Anna Cerullo, Giovanni Paolino and Santo Raffaele Mercuri

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040155 - 21 Jul 2025

Viewed by 641

Abstract

Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a [...] Read more.

Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a high demand for effective, non-invasive, and well-tolerated treatment options. This single-centre, in vivo, prospective study evaluated the efficacy of a non-pharmacological, thermogenic topical cream-gel combined with manual massage in women with symmetrical grade II or III cellulite (Nürnberger–Müller scale). A total of 56 female participants (aged 18–55 years) were enrolled and instructed to apply the product twice daily for eight weeks to the thighs and buttocks. Efficacy was assessed using instrumental skin profilometry (ANTERA^® 3D CS imaging system), dermatological clinical grading, and patient self-assessment questionnaires. Quantitative analysis showed a mean reduction of 23.5% in skin indentation volume (p < 0.01) and a mean decrease of 1.1 points on the cellulite severity scale by week 8. Patient-reported outcomes revealed 85.7% satisfaction with visible results and 91% satisfaction with product texture and ease of application. Dermatological evaluation confirmed no clinically significant adverse reactions, and only 3.5% of participants reported mild and transient skin sensitivity. These findings suggest that this topical cream-gel formulation, when used in conjunction with manual massage, represents a well-tolerated and non-invasive option for the cosmetic improvement of moderate to severe cellulite. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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13 pages, 1925 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Ethnic Differences in Women’s Perception of Simulated Facial Aging over a 15-Year Horizon: A GAN-Based Model Approach

by Frederic Flament, Panagiotis-Alexandros Bokaris, Julien Despois, Frederic Woodland, Adrien Chretien, Paul Tartrat and Guive Balooch

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040154 - 21 Jul 2025

Viewed by 521

Abstract

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based [...] Read more.

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based algorithm then aged the photographs by 10 (T10) and 15 (T15) years. A total of 246 women from China, France, and Thailand compared these images in pairs (T0 vs. T0 + 10 or T0 + 15) and provided feedback on their overall impressions, realism, and psychological acceptance via a questionnaire. Besides lower face ptosis (p < 0.01), the simulated images revealed that regardless of ethnicity, there were no significant differences in grading. Irrespective of ethnic background, 62–78% of overall panelists found the projections realistic and liked them, while 85–96% of panelists (Chinese and French) were willing to test them. A total of 47% of Thai panelists were reluctant to try, while 4–14% found it scary. This indicated some degree of cultural influence. This study confirms women’s acceptance of future facial appearance with some degree of cultural divergence. It also highlights a valid methodology to explore skin aging for a more realistic and personalized cosmetic improvement and innovation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 3907 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Validation of Plant-Derived Materials for Skin Application

by Euihyun Kim, Hyo Hyun Seo, Dong Sun Shin, Jihyeok Song, Seon Kyu Yun, Jeong Hun Lee and Sang Hyun Moh

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 153; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040153 - 21 Jul 2025

Viewed by 479

Abstract

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with vegan and ethical standards. Unlike compounds such as polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), which is derived from the testis or seminal fluid of Salmonidae species and raises concerns regarding its origin, sustainability, and consumer acceptability, PDMs provide a cleaner, ethically preferable profile. In this study, we evaluated 50 PDM candidates using in vitro cell viability, wound healing, and immunocytochemistry assays, along with primary skin irritation tests in human participants. None of the samples showed harmful effects. Notably, sample Nos. 38 and 42 demonstrated significant wound-healing capacity and upregulated filaggrin expression without causing notable irritation in clinical testing. These findings support the biological activity and safety of specific PDMs as functional cosmetic ingredients. This study presents scientifically validated evidence for plant-based alternatives to animal-derived materials and offers a new milestone in the shift toward sustainable and ethical cosmetic development. By bridging the gap between consumer demand and scientific rigor, this study provides a robust platform for future innovations in vegan cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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21 pages, 7139 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Study of a Topical and Oral Combination Therapy Containing Oleanolic Acid, Apigenin, and Biotinyl Tripeptide-1 in Patients with Androgenetic Alopecia: A Prospective, Open-Label Trial

by Vlad-Mihai Voiculescu and Mihai Lupu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 152; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040152 - 16 Jul 2025

Viewed by 842

Abstract

Background: Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent condition characterized by progressive follicular miniaturization. Minoxidil topical treatment and finasteride oral treatment are the golden standard, but they are limited by local and systemic adverse effects. Combination therapies targeting both follicular stimulation and nutritional support [...] Read more.

Background: Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent condition characterized by progressive follicular miniaturization. Minoxidil topical treatment and finasteride oral treatment are the golden standard, but they are limited by local and systemic adverse effects. Combination therapies targeting both follicular stimulation and nutritional support may enhance clinical outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of a combined topical and oral therapy compared to topical monotherapy in patients with AGA using trichoscopic and clinical parameters. Methods: In this open-label, prospective trial, 48 patients were assigned to receive either a topical spray alone (Group A) or in combination with oral capsules (Group B) for 3 months. Trichoscopic parameters were assessed at baseline and post-treatment. Paired and independent t-tests, along with Cohen’s d effect sizes, were used to evaluate intra- and inter-group changes. Results: Both groups demonstrated improvements in hair density, thickness, and anagen/telogen ratio. Group B exhibited significantly greater increases in total hair count and anagen conversion (p < 0.05). The effect sizes ranged from small to large, with the most pronounced changes observed in anagen/telogen ratio (Cohen’s d = 0.841) in males. Conclusions: The combination of topical and oral treatment led to greater trichologic improvements than topical therapy alone. While extrapolated projections at 6 and 12 months suggest continued benefit, future studies with longer duration and placebo controls are required to validate these findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2229 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking the Skin Health-Promoting Ingredients of Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica Thunberg) Flower-Loaded Polyglycerol Fatty Acid Ester-Based Low-Energy Nanoemulsions

by Nara Yaowiwat, Pingtawan Bunmark, Siripat Chaichit, Worrapan Poomanee and Karnkamol Trisopon

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040151 - 15 Jul 2025

Viewed by 721

Abstract

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes [...] Read more.

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes associated with anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, the low-energy nanoemulsions based on optimally formulated polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFEs), developed through D-optimality, were designed for the incorporation of HSF extract. The result revealed that HSF is a rich source of diverse phenolic and flavonoid compounds that contribute to its remarkable antioxidant capacity. Molecular docking analysis indicates that its compounds exhibit anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities, particularly through collagenase, hyaluronidase, and TNF-α inhibition. Furthermore, D-optimality revealed that HSF-loaded nanoemulsions can be fabricated by a surfactant to oil ratio (SOR) of 2:1 with a ratio of low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) surfactant to high HLB surfactant (LHR) of 1:2. Polyglyceryl-6 laurate as a high HLB surfactant produced the optimal nanoemulsion with small particle size and possessed an encapsulation efficiency (EE) of 74.32 ± 0.19%. This is the first report to combine D-optimal design-based nanoemulsion development with a multi-level analysis of HSF, including phytochemical profiling, antioxidant evaluation, and in silico molecular docking. These findings highlight that HSF-loaded polyglycerol fatty acid ester-based nanoemulsions could be a skin health-promoting ingredient and effective alternative for a variety of skincare applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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23 pages, 1290 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking Nature’s Anti-Aging Secrets: The Potential of Natural Mineral Waters Combined with Plant Extracts in Cosmetics

by Ana Rita Gama, Carolina P. Gomes, Cátia Caetano, Ana Sofia Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Lillian Barros, Paula Plasencia, Juliana Garcia, Daniela Correia, Maria José Alves, José Martinez-de-Oliveira, Ana Palmeira-de-Oliveira and Rita Palmeira-de-Oliveira

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 150; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040150 - 14 Jul 2025

Viewed by 817

Abstract

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, [...] Read more.

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, two day creams, and two night creams) with innovative and non-irritating profiles. The rational design was guided by market analysis and ingredient properties. Prototype formulations were created with two core mixtures: (1) natural mineral water from Termas de Unhais da Serra and Thymus × citriodorus hydrolat and (2) natural mineral water from Termas de Chaves and aqueous Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry) extract. The products were evaluated for stability (4 °C and 40 °C, 4 weeks), safety (according to EC Regulation No. 1223/2009), including in vitro testing for skin irritation potential (epiderm model; OECD TG 439). The market study highlighted a gap in anti-aging products combining natural extracts and thermal waters. All prototypes showed desirable textures and remained stable under test conditions. No irritating effects were observed. The results support the development of effective anti-aging cosmetics rooted in natural resources. These innovative products can meet the market demand for natural and sustainable skincare solutions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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22 pages, 1267 KiB

Open AccessReview

Beauty’s Blind Spot: Unmasking the Ocular Side Effects and Concerns of Eye Cosmetics

by Kasra Cheraqpour

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 149; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040149 - 14 Jul 2025

Viewed by 713

Abstract

Nowadays, a significant portion of the population uses eye cosmetics, a trend that is not limited to women, as men increasingly adopt stylish makeup techniques. Eye cosmetics, often termed eye makeup, include a diverse array of products such as eyelash enhancers (mascara, false [...] Read more.

Nowadays, a significant portion of the population uses eye cosmetics, a trend that is not limited to women, as men increasingly adopt stylish makeup techniques. Eye cosmetics, often termed eye makeup, include a diverse array of products such as eyelash enhancers (mascara, false eyelashes, growth serums, and dyes), eyelid products (eyeliner, kohl, eye contour cream, and eyeshadow), and eye makeup removers. There is a persistent interest among dermatologists in the influence of eye cosmetics on the skin surrounding the eye. The formulation of these cosmetics typically consists of various ingredients, some of which may present potential health risks to users. The application of eye cosmetics is linked to a range of adverse effects on the ocular surface, which may manifest as mechanical injury, tear film instability, toxicity, inflammation, and infections. Therefore, the use of cosmetics in this sensitive area is of paramount importance, necessitating a cooperative approach among eyecare professionals, dermatologists, and beauty experts. Despite the widespread use of eye makeup, its possible ocular side effects have not been sufficiently addressed. This report aims to elucidate how the use of eye cosmetics represents a lifestyle challenge that may exacerbate or initiate ocular surface and adnexal disorders. Full article

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12 pages, 1563 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Effectiveness and Safety of 1470 nm Non-Ablative Laser Therapy for the Treatment of Striae Distensae: A Pilot Study

by Paweł Kubik, Stefano Bighetti, Luca Bettolini, Wojciech Gruszczyński, Bartłomiej Łukasik, Stefania Guida, Giorgio Stabile, Giovanni Paolino, Elisa María Murillo Herrera, Andrea Carugno, Mario Valenti, Cristina Zane, Vincenzo Maione, Edoardo D’Este and Nicola Zerbinati

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040148 - 11 Jul 2025

Viewed by 649

Abstract

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common aesthetic concern with limited effective treatment options. This prospective, single-center, open-label study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy in improving skin texture and reducing SD dimensions. Twenty [...] Read more.

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common aesthetic concern with limited effective treatment options. This prospective, single-center, open-label study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy in improving skin texture and reducing SD dimensions. Twenty healthy female volunteers (aged 19–56) with SD of varying stages underwent three laser sessions at three-week intervals. Treatments were delivered using energy densities of 28–35 mJ per point with spot spacing of 0.8–1.2 mm, uniformly delivered over the affected SD lesions. Assessments were performed at baseline, Day 14, Day 35, Day 56–70, and Day 118–132. SD depth and width were measured using high-frequency ultrasound; aesthetic improvement was assessed using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), alongside clinical and photographic evaluations. A statistically significant, progressive reduction in SD size was observed: mean depth decreased from 0.34 mm (SD = 0.16) to 0.18 mm (SD = 0.15), and width decreased from 6.58 mm (SD = 2.65) to 4.40 mm (SD = 2.52) by Day 118–132 (p < 0.01 for both). Most participants reported improvement on GAIS at each follow-up. No severe adverse events occurred; only mild, transient erythema and edema were noted. In conclusion, 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy showed significant efficacy and a favorable safety profile in SD treatment, offering a promising non-invasive option based on fractional thermal stimulation and selective dermal absorption. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)

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18 pages, 907 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating Coffee and Rosemary Extracts as Sustainable Alternatives to Synthetic Preservatives

by Luiza Aparecida Luna Silvério, Érica Mendes dos Santos, Josélia Cristina de Oliveira Moreira, Ana Lucia Tasca Gois Ruiz, Karina Cogo-Müller, Janaína Artem Ataide, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 147; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040147 - 11 Jul 2025

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 595

Abstract

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural [...] Read more.

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural preservatives for emulsions. Antimicrobial activity was assessed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans, along with cytotoxicity tests on human keratinocytes and antioxidant activity. The most effective extracts were incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion for evaluation. C. arabica extracts showed the best results among coffee samples, with 43.53 mg GAE/g (gallic acid equivalents) and 2.32 mg QE/g of total phenolics (quercetin equivalents) and flavonoids, and minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) of 12.5 mg/mL against Escherichia coli, and 25 mg/mL against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Rosemary extract showed 158.01 ± 23.67 mg GAE/g and 1.95 ± 0.05 mg QE/g, with MICs of 2.5 mg/mL against E. coli, 1.25 mg/mL against P. aeruginosa, 0.3 mg/mL against S. aureus, and 0.08 mg/mL against Candida albicans. However, rosemary extracts displayed complete inhibition of keratinocyte growth at 20 µg/mL. A combination of both extracts had synergistic effects against S. aureus and P. aeruginosa. The emulsion met microbial safety standards in the challenge test for bacteria but not yeast. The results suggest that rosemary extracts enhance the potential of coffee by-product as a preservative system, and as a multifunctional excipient system in cosmetics, offering preservation and antioxidant protection. However, further strategies, such as adding other ingredients or adjusting the formulation pH, are required to ensure yeast inhibition. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2264 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Stability, Bioactivity, and Skin Penetration of Prunus Leaf Extracts in Cream Formulations: A Clinical Study on Skin Irritation

by Lapatrada Mungmai, Eakkaluk Wongwad, Patcharawan Tanamatayarat, Tammanoon Rungsang, Pattavet Vivattanaseth, Nattapol Aunsri and Weeraya Preedalikit

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 146; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040146 - 10 Jul 2025

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 544

Abstract

Prunus leaf extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, and they are known for their antioxidant potential. This study compares the bioactivity and stability of leaf extracts from Prunus domestica L. (EL), Prunus salicina Lindl. (JL), and Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. [...] Read more.

Prunus leaf extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, and they are known for their antioxidant potential. This study compares the bioactivity and stability of leaf extracts from Prunus domestica L. (EL), Prunus salicina Lindl. (JL), and Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. (CL) and evaluates the dermal safety of a cream containing the extract with the most favorable in vitro properties for potential cosmetic use. Ethanolic extracts were assessed for total phenolic and condensed tannin contents, as well as antioxidants, using DPPH assay and lipid peroxidation inhibitory activities. The CL extract exhibited moderate total phenolic content, the highest condensed tannin content, and strong antioxidant (IC₅₀ = 22.1 ± 3.1 µg/mL) and anti-lipid peroxidation (62.3 ± 1.0%) activities. Based on these results, CL was incorporated into a cream formulation (CCL), which was then evaluated for physicochemical properties, antioxidant retention, and in vitro skin permeation using Franz diffusion cells. The formulation remained physically stable under ambient conditions and retained antioxidant activity above 74.5% under thermal cycling conditions. Rutin from the CCL formulation was retained within the Strat-M™ membrane (4.0 ± 1.1%), which was 5.7-fold higher than that of the control (0.7 ± 0.6%) over 8 h; however, it was not detected in the receptor chamber under these in vitro conditions. A semi-open patch test conducted on 26 healthy volunteers under double-blind conditions revealed no signs of irritation, confirming the formulation’s dermal safety. Overall, the findings support the feasibility of using P. cerasifera extract as a stable antioxidant component in topical skincare formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 315 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Prediction of Shampoo Formulation Phase Stability Using Large Language Models

by Erwan Bigan and Stéphane Dufour

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 145; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040145 - 10 Jul 2025

Viewed by 478

Abstract

Predictive formulation can help reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic product. The performance of Large Language Models from the open source Llama family is compared with that of conventional machine learning to predict the phase stability of shampoo [...] Read more.

Predictive formulation can help reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic product. The performance of Large Language Models from the open source Llama family is compared with that of conventional machine learning to predict the phase stability of shampoo formulations using a recently published dataset. The predictive strength is assessed for various train dataset sizes (obtained by stratified sampling of the full dataset) and for various Large Language Model sizes (3, 8, and 70B parameters). The predictive strength is found to increase on increasing the model size, and the Large-Language-Model-based approach outperforms conventional machine learning when the train dataset is small, delivering Area Under the Receiver Operating Curve above 0.7 with as few as 20 train samples. This work illustrates the potential of Large Language Models to further reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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29 pages, 1189 KiB

Open AccessReview

Decoding Skin Aging: A Review of Mechanisms, Markers, and Modern Therapies

by Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez, Stefano Bacci, Maria Luisa Hernandez-Bule, Alfonso Perez-Gonzalez and Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 144; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040144 - 10 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1596

Abstract

Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, [...] Read more.

Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, manifesting as wrinkles, pigmentation disorders, thinning, and reduced elasticity. This review provides an integrative overview of the biological, molecular, and clinical dimensions of skin aging, emphasizing the interplay between inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, and senescence-associated signaling pathways. We examine histopathological hallmarks and molecular markers and discuss the influence of genetic and ethnic variations on aging phenotypes. Current therapeutic strategies are explored, ranging from topical agents (e.g., retinoids, antioxidants, niacinamide) to procedural interventions such as lasers, intense pulsed light, photodynamic therapy, microneedling, and injectable biostimulators. Special attention is given to emerging approaches such as microneedle delivery systems, with mention of exosome-based therapies. The review underscores the importance of personalized anti-aging regimens based on biological age, phototype, and lifestyle factors. As the field advances, integrating mechanistic insights with individualized treatment selection will be key to optimizing skin rejuvenation and preserving long-term dermal health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 2749 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Adhesive Peptide Derived from Mussel Protein Alleviates LL37-Induced Rosacea Through Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Angiogenic Mechanisms

by Tae Yoon Kim, Jin Hyeop Kim, Yeon-Jun Lee, Min Ji Song, Ha Hui Park and Ji Hyung Chung

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 143; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040143 - 4 Jul 2025

Viewed by 561

Abstract

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage [...] Read more.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage of being relatively safe and exhibiting high target specificity, which can reduce the risk of adverse effects. Considering these points, this study aimed to explore the adhesive peptide AdhPep3 (AYDPGYK) as a potential therapeutic candidate for rosacea. AdhPep3 was designed based on protein sequences with cell junction properties and has the potential to enhance skin barrier-related protein expression by improving cell–cell adhesion and increasing adhesion-related protein levels. In LL-37-stimulated HaCaT cells, AdhPep3 effectively alleviated skin inflammation and inhibited the Toll-like receptor–nuclear factor kappa B (TLR2–NFκB) signaling pathway. Additionally, in LL-37-stimulated human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs), it reduced cell migration and the expression of angiogenesis-related proteins. Since AdhPep3 demonstrated anti-inflammatory and anti-angiogenic effects at the in vitro level, it may serve as a potential therapeutic agent for rosacea. Moreover, by increasing the expression of skin barrier and tight junction-related proteins, AdhPep3 shows potential for development as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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24 pages, 886 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Potential of Olive Mill Wastewater: A Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Source of Natural Ingredients

by Adriana Albini, Paola Corradino, Danilo Morelli, Francesca Albini and Douglas Noonan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040142 - 3 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1605

Abstract

Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. [...] Read more.

Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. Key polyphenols such as hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein, and tyrosol exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and photoprotective effects. These compounds mitigate oxidative stress, prevent collagen degradation, modulate NF-κB and MAPK signaling, and promote cellular repair and regeneration. Skin health is increasingly recognized as crucial to overall well-being, driving interest in cosmeceuticals that combine cosmetic benefits with dermatological activity. This review examines the cosmeceutical and dermatological potential of OMWW, highlighting its incorporation into innovative topical formulations like oil-in-water nanoemulsions, liposomes, and microneedles that enhance skin penetration and bioavailability. Additionally, OMWW fractions have shown selective antiproliferative effects on melanoma cells, suggesting potential for skin cancer prevention. Valorization of OMWW through biorefinery processes aligns with circular-economy principles, converting agro-industrial waste into sustainable cosmeceutical ingredients. This approach not only meets consumer demand for natural, effective products, but also reduces the ecological footprint of olive oil production, offering a scalable, eco-friendly strategy for next-generation dermatological applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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22 pages, 1280 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Optimization of a Quercetin-Loaded Chitosan Lactate Nanoparticle Hydrogel with Antioxidant and Antibacterial Properties for Topical Skin Applications

by Raghda Yazidi, Majdi Hammami, Hamza Ghadhoumi, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Sawssen Selmi, Kamel Zayani, Karima Horchani-Naifer, Iness Bettaieb Rebey and Moufida Saidani Tounsi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 141; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040141 - 3 Jul 2025

Viewed by 836

Abstract

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its [...] Read more.

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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26 pages, 857 KiB

Open AccessReview

Officinal Plants as New Frontiers of Cosmetic Ingredients

by Annabella Vitalone, Lucia D’Andrea, Antonella Di Sotto, Alessandra Caruso and Rita Parente

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 140; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040140 - 3 Jul 2025

Viewed by 831

Abstract

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores [...] Read more.

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Profile and Efficacy of Biosea^® Revive Serum for Hair Growth Through In Vitro Assessment and Clinical Evaluation

by Chi-Ju Wu, Chun-Yin Yang, Pamela Berilyn So, Hui-Yu Hu, Shang-Hsuan Yang, Hsiang-Ming Hsueh, Tzu-Hui Wu and Feng-Lin Yen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040139 - 1 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1104

Abstract

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl [...] Read more.

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl tripeptide-1 and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract as the main ingredients, as a natural intervention for hair growth. Results from the in vitro study demonstrates that BRS not only increased human hair dermal papilla cell (HHDPC) cell proliferation, but also reduced reactive oxygen species generation and 5α-reductase expression when compared to the control group, with BRS showing similar effect to the positive control, minoxidil. In addition, a 90-day clinical trial with 40 participants (KMUHIRB-F(I)-20230125; approval date: 18 August 2023) was conducted to assess the effectiveness and safety of BRS. The results revealed that BRS can improve hair density and quality in both men and women participants, with a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in women (p < 0.05). Moreover, there were no adverse effects on blood parameters or scalp irritation reported after BRS treatment. In conclusion, we suggest that BRS offers a safe and effective solution for improving hair follicle health and is suitable for long-term use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 2664 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Engineering a Polyacrylamide/Polydopamine Adhesive Hydrogel Patch for Sustained Transdermal Vitamin E Delivery

by Yejin Kim, Juhyeon Kim, Dongmin Yu, Taeho Kim, Jonghyun Park, Juyeon Lee, Sohyeon Yu, Dongseong Seo, Byoungsoo Kim, Simseok A. Yuk, Daekyung Sung and Hyungjun Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040138 - 1 Jul 2025

Viewed by 639

Abstract

A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel [...] Read more.

A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel using a polyacrylamide (PAM)/polydopamine (PDA) dual-network structure. The matrix combines the mechanical toughness of PAM with the strong adhesive properties of PDA, derived from mussel foot proteins, enabling firm tissue attachment and robust performance under physiological conditions. To demonstrate its applicability, the hydrogel was integrated with poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanoparticles encapsulating the hydrophobic antioxidant vitamin E as a model compound. The resulting PAM/PDA@VitE hydrogel system exhibited improved swelling behavior, high water retention, and prolonged release of α-tocopherol. These results suggest that the PAM/PDA hydrogel platform is a versatile vehicle not only for vitamin E, but also for the transdermal delivery of various cosmetic and therapeutic agents. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")

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18 pages, 1525 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Importance of Cosmetics in Oncological Patients. Survey of Tolerance of Routine Cosmetic Care in Oncological Patients

by María-Elena Fernández-Martín, Jose V. Tarazona, Natalia Hernández-Cano and Ander Mayor Ibarguren

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040137 - 27 Jun 2025

Viewed by 640

Abstract

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also [...] Read more.

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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21 pages, 2393 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Digital Tools in Action: 3D Printing for Personalized Skincare in the Era of Beauty Tech

by Sara Bom, Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro and Joana Marto

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 136; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040136 - 25 Jun 2025

Viewed by 579

Abstract

3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to [...] Read more.

3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to the personalization of under-eye 3D-printed skincare patches and assesses consumer acceptability through emotional sensing, providing a comparative analysis against a non-3D-printed market option. The results indicate that increasing the patches’ internal porosity enhances water retention in the stratum corneum (53.0 vs. 45.4% µm). Additionally, patches were personalized to address individual skin needs/conditions (design and bioactive composition) and consumer preferences (color and fragrance). The affective analysis indicated a high level of consumer acceptance for the 3D-printed option, as evidenced by the higher valence (14.5 vs. 1.1 action units) and arousal (4.2 vs. 2.7 peaks/minute) scores. These findings highlight the potential of 3DP for personalized skincare, demonstrating how structural modifications can modulate hydration. Furthermore, the biometric-preference digital approach employed offers unparalleled versatility, enabling rapid customization to meet the unique requirements of different skin types. By embracing this advancement, a new era of personalized skincare emerges, where cutting-edge science powers solutions for enhanced skin health and consumer satisfaction. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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16 pages, 1441 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of a Centella asiatica (CICA)-Derived Extracellular Vesicle Formulation for Anti-Aging Skincare

by Hannah S. Park and Sehyun Shin

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040135 - 25 Jun 2025

Viewed by 1395

Abstract

Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study [...] Read more.

Centella asiatica (CICA)-derived exosomes have emerged as bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation due to their regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the safety and efficacy of a topical ampoule containing CICA-derived extracellular vesicles (EVs) in healthy Korean adults. This human application study was conducted over a 15-day period, during which the test formulation was topically applied to the skin following a controlled regimen. A 24-h patch test with 30 participants confirmed non-irritation (irritation index: 0.00). In a separate two-week trial (n = 20; mean age 50.7 years), 3D imaging and ultrasound assessed five-dimensional pore improvement (area, density, volume, filling, texture), wrinkle depth reduction in five facial regions, dermal hydration at 0.5, 1.5, and 2.5 mm depths, and skin density. Significant reductions were observed in mean pore area (−17.9%) and pore density (−26.9%), with a 9.0% decrease in surface roughness. Wrinkle depths decreased by 7.8–18.8% across the forehead, glabella, crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and neck. Hydration increased by 7.9% at 0.5 mm, and dermal density improved by 12.7% (p < 0.05). These findings highlight the excellent skin compatibility and multifaceted cosmetic benefits of the formulation containing CICA-derived exosomes and other active ingredients, underscoring its potential as a safe, effective, and innovative anti-aging cosmetic agent. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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25 pages, 3946 KiB

Open AccessReview

Application Possibilities of Sustainable Nanostructured Silica-Based Materials in Cosmetics

by Veronica Latini, Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik and Agata Wawrzyńczak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 134; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040134 - 25 Jun 2025

Viewed by 780

Abstract

Nanostructured silica-based materials, including mesoporous silica nanoparticles (SiNPs), show a wide range of applications in various areas, such as food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This is mainly due to their unique properties, namely biocompatibility, stability, adjustable pore size, a highly developed specific surface [...] Read more.

Nanostructured silica-based materials, including mesoporous silica nanoparticles (SiNPs), show a wide range of applications in various areas, such as food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This is mainly due to their unique properties, namely biocompatibility, stability, adjustable pore size, a highly developed specific surface area, and simplicity in surface modification. Currently, special emphasis is placed on obtaining nanostructured silica-based materials using so-called green methods, which not only reduce toxic by-products, but also enable the use of raw materials from plants, agricultural and industrial waste, as well as bacteria or fungi. This trend is particularly evident in the cosmetic industry, which is striving to reduce the adverse environmental and social impacts of cosmetic production. Therefore, this article presents a review of the literature from the last ten years, which describes issues related to the possibilities of replacing synthetic silica-based ingredients in cosmetic products with their more environmentally friendly counterparts. Special emphasis has been placed on the application possibilities of sustainable nanostructured silica-based materials and their potential toxicity in topical formulations. The possibilities of obtaining nanostructured silica-based materials through green synthesis and using natural silica precursors have been briefly presented, as well as the options for modifying the surface of these materials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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11 pages, 244 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessment of Systemic Safety of Althaea rosea Flower Extract for Use in Cosmetics: Threshold of Toxicological Concern and History of Safe Consumption Approaches

by Sangwon Gil and Kyung-Min Lim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 133; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040133 - 24 Jun 2025

Viewed by 511

Abstract

Althaea rosea flower extract (ARFE) is widely used as a food and cosmetic ingredient. However, the systemic safety of ARFE for use in cosmetics has not been confirmed, yet. Here, we adopted the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) and history of safe food [...] Read more.

Althaea rosea flower extract (ARFE) is widely used as a food and cosmetic ingredient. However, the systemic safety of ARFE for use in cosmetics has not been confirmed, yet. Here, we adopted the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) and history of safe food consumption approaches to evaluate the systemic safety of ARFE as a cosmetic ingredient. A systematic literature review identified 48 chemical constituents in ARFE, 92.6% of which are common food components. Through a literature review, 48 chemical constituents of ARFE were identified. To exclude the potential genotoxicity issues, in silico predictions of an in vitro AMES test and additional literature reviews were performed, demonstrating that all the chemical constituents of ARFE have no genotoxicity issues. To evaluate the systemic toxicity of ARFE, a comparison with the dietary intake of ARFE was performed. The daily dietary intake of ARFE through tea products was estimated to be 66.67 mg/kg/day. Since exposure to ARFE through cosmetic use ranges from 0.0045 to 5.380 mg/kg/day, which is far lower than dietary intake, it is unlikely to pose any additional health risk. The TTC approach along with in silico predictions of dermal absorption also revealed that systemic exposure doses (SEDs) of all the chemical constituents are below TTC thresholds, further supporting its systemic safety for use in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

21 pages, 394 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

The Role of African Medicinal Plants in Dermatological Treatments: A Systematic Review of Antimicrobial, Wound-Healing and Melanogenesis Inhibition

by Lubna M. S. Elmahaishi, Farzana Fisher, Ahmed Hussein and Charlene W. J. Africa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 132; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040132 - 24 Jun 2025

Viewed by 604

Abstract

Background: Medicinal plants are widely used across the globe as complementary and alternative therapies for managing various health conditions. The use of medicinal plants is a fundamental component of the African traditional healthcare system and most diverse therapeutic practices. Africa harbors a variety [...] Read more.

Background: Medicinal plants are widely used across the globe as complementary and alternative therapies for managing various health conditions. The use of medicinal plants is a fundamental component of the African traditional healthcare system and most diverse therapeutic practices. Africa harbors a variety of plant species, many of which are estimated to be endemic, making it a rich source of medicinal plants with potential relevance to human health. Aim of the study: The study aimed to review and highlight the information in the literature related to the antimicrobial activity, wound-healing activity, and melanogenesis inhibition of African medicinal plants. Methods: Following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA 2020) guidelines, a literature search was conducted on ScienceDirect, Google Scholar, Medline Ebscohost, and PubMed, which were searched for articles published between 2018 and 2024. Due to high heterogeneity and variability in study designs, data were synthesized using a narrative approach. Result: A total of 37 studies were included. Emilia coccinea, Entada africana, Trichilia dregeana, Physalis angulata, and Prunus africana demonstrated strong wound-healing activity (100%) at concentrations between 5 and 10%. For melanogenesis inhibition, Ormocarpum trichocarpum (IC₅₀ = 2.95 µg/mL), Limonium cercinense (IC₅₀ = 3 µg/mL), and L. boitardii (IC₅₀ = 5 µg/mL) showed the most potent effects. The strongest antimicrobial effects were reported for Harpagophytum procumbens (MIC = 10 µg/mL) against Staphylococcus aureus and S. epidermidis and Pistacia atlantica (MIC = 78.1 µg/mL) against Listeria monocytogenes and Candida albicans (MIC = 39 µg/mL). Conclusions: This study highlights the broad therapeutic potential of African medicinal plant extracts in addressing various health conditions, including skin infections, wound management, and skin pigmentation. While several extracts demonstrated strong bioactivity, inconsistent reporting of statistical data limited quantitative synthesis. Future studies should adopt standardized methodologies and report complete statistical outcomes to enable robust meta-analyses and support clinical translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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