Cosmetics

12 pages, 1082 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical and Instrumental Evaluation of the Anti-Aging Effectiveness of a Cream Based on Hyaluronic Acid and a Cream Based on Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin C: A Prospective, Multicenter, 8-Week, Parallel-Group Randomized Study on 91 Subjects

by Corinna Rigoni, Alessandra M. Cantù, Maria Carmela Annunziata, Chiara Bordin, Sandra Farina, Patrizia Forgione, Caterina Foti, Sandra Lorenzi, Francesca Negosanti, Marisa Praticò, Aurora Tedeschi, Federica Tovecci, Lucia Villa, Colombina Vincenzi, Francesca Colombo, Stefano Alfano, Massimo Milani and Elena Rossi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 177; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040177 - 20 Aug 2025

Abstract

Introduction: Skin aging is a multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, resulting in visible changes such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely recognized for its hydrating and structural support properties, [...] Read more.

Introduction: Skin aging is a multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, resulting in visible changes such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely recognized for its hydrating and structural support properties, while Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant and depigmenting effects. This study investigated the anti-aging efficacy of two topical formulations containing Jalubalance^® technology—HA delivered in Opuntia oil—with or without 1% Vitamin C. Background/Objectives: We conducted an 8-week, multicenter, randomized trial involving 91 women aged 30–50 years with mild-to-moderate photoaging. Participants were assigned to apply either HA-only cream (Group A) or a HA + Vitamin C cream (Group B) twice daily. The primary outcome was the percentage of subjects who achieved an improvement of at least one point in the hyperpigmentation score from baseline to week 8. Additionally, the study aimed to evaluate and compare the clinical and instrumental effects of both treatments, with a particular focus on improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, and pigmentation. Results: Both groups showed significant improvements across all measured parameters, including Glogau scores, wrinkle reduction, and skin elasticity. Instrumental analysis confirmed increased hydration and elasticity. Group B showed a significantly greater reduction in hyperpigmentation (−45%) compared to Group A (−31%, p < 0.05). At week 8, a ≥1-point reduction in hyperpigmentation score was observed in 56% of subjects in Group B and 30% in Group A (absolute difference: 26%; 95% CI: 5–43%; p < 0.05), highlighting the added benefit of Vitamin C on this parameter. Participant satisfaction was high, especially for the moisturization and brightening effects of both products. Conclusions: The topical application of Jalubalance-based creams effectively reduced signs of aging. The inclusion of Vitamin C provided enhanced benefits in reducing hyperpigmentation, suggesting its utility in personalized dermatological approaches for patients with pigmentation concerns. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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21 pages, 3050 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetic Upgrade of EGF: Genetically Modified Probiotic-Derived Cell-Free Supernatants Containing Human EGF Protein Exhibit Diverse Biological Activities

by Jun Young Ahn, Seungwoo Kim, Jaewon Ha, Yoon Jin Roh, Yongku Ryu, Myung Jun Chung, Kui Young Park and Byung Chull An

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 176; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040176 - 19 Aug 2025

Viewed by 204

Abstract

Although epidermal growth factor (EGF) has potential wide applications in the cosmetic industry, it still has limitations, such as a costly purification process and low stability in the surrounding environment. To overcome these limitations, we developed genetically modified Pediococcus pentosaceus CBT SL4, which [...] Read more.

Although epidermal growth factor (EGF) has potential wide applications in the cosmetic industry, it still has limitations, such as a costly purification process and low stability in the surrounding environment. To overcome these limitations, we developed genetically modified Pediococcus pentosaceus CBT SL4, which can secrete EGF protein in growth media, thereby producing probiotic-derived PP-EGF culture medium supernatant (PP-EGF-SUP). Even at low EGF concentrations, PP-EGF-SUP exhibited EGF activities, such as cell scratch wound healing, tyrosinase inhibition, and improvements in anti-wrinkle factors, similar to or stronger than those of recombinant human EGF (rhEGF), which was used as a positive control. PP-EGF-SUP exhibited strong additional biological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial activities, even though rhEGF did not have such properties. PP-EGF-SUP could be easily transformed to PP-EGF-SUP dried powder (PP-EGF-DP) using the freeze-drying method, and it could also be well resolved in water up to 20 mg/mL; furthermore, it still maintained its bioactivity after the manufacturing process. To determine melasma improvement efficacy, a human application test was performed using melasma ampoules containing 1% or 5% PP-EGF-DP formulations for four weeks. When comparing the melasma values before and after treatment, it was found that the light melasma value statistically decreased by 3.38% and 3.79% and that the dark melasma value statistically decreased by 1.74% and 2.93% in the test groups applying the 1% and 5% PP-EGF-DP melasma ampoules, respectively. In addition, the melasma area also decreased by 21.21% and 29.1%, while the control group showed no statistical difference. During the study period, no significant adverse skin reactions were observed due to the application of the PP-EGF-DP melasma ampoule. In conclusion, PP-EGF-DP may offer unique advantages in the cosmetic ingredient market, such as safety (as a probiotic derivative), stability (postbiotics protect EGF activity), and diverse bioactivities (activity potentiation and postbiotic-derived biological activities). Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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29 pages, 801 KiB

Open AccessReview

Assessment of Endocrine-Disrupting Properties in Cosmetic Ingredients: Focus on UV Filters and Alternative Testing Methods

by Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Laia Guardia-Escote, Maria Pilar Vinardell, Elisabet Teixidó and Montserrat Mitjans

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 175; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040175 - 16 Aug 2025

Viewed by 288

Abstract

Endocrine-disrupting chemicals are substances capable of interfering with hormonal systems, potentially leading to adverse developmental, reproductive, neurological, and immune effects in both humans and wildlife. Various experimental models are currently available to assess the endocrine-disrupting potential of substances. However, in the context of [...] Read more.

Endocrine-disrupting chemicals are substances capable of interfering with hormonal systems, potentially leading to adverse developmental, reproductive, neurological, and immune effects in both humans and wildlife. Various experimental models are currently available to assess the endocrine-disrupting potential of substances. However, in the context of cosmetic ingredients, the ban on animal testing for safety and efficacy evaluations in Europe and other regions necessitates the use of in vitro or in silico approaches. Concerns have been raised regarding the possible endocrine-disrupting properties of certain cosmetic compounds, prompting the development of a priority substance list that includes several ultraviolet (UV) filters. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the main methodologies employed to evaluate endocrine-disrupting effects, with a particular focus on different endocrine organs. It also compiles and analyzes literature data related to commonly used UV filters such as benzophenones, avobenzone, homosalate, octocrylene, octinoxate, and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor. A major limitation identified is the lack of validated in vitro methods for assessing disruptions in specific endocrine organs, such as the thyroid and pancreas. This gap hinders accurate interpretation of experimental results and highlights the urgent need for further research to clarify the safety profiles of UV filters and other cosmetic ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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13 pages, 1101 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Bioassay-Guided Isolation of Chemical Constituents from Lycopodiastrum casuarinoides and Targeted Evaluation of Their Potential Efficacy in Cosmetics

by Jian-Ye Zhu, Zeng-Yue Ge, Qi-Bin Yang, Cai-Fu Jiang, Lei Wu, Xin-Yuan Jiang and Lin-Fu Liang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 174; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040174 - 16 Aug 2025

Viewed by 227

Abstract

Natural tyrosinase inhibitors are currently a hot research topic due to their potential application in cosmetic and medicinal products. For the plant Lycopodiastrum casuarinoides, the chemical constituents with a tyrosinase inhibitory effect have not been investigated yet. Bioassay-guided isolation was conducted on [...] Read more.

Natural tyrosinase inhibitors are currently a hot research topic due to their potential application in cosmetic and medicinal products. For the plant Lycopodiastrum casuarinoides, the chemical constituents with a tyrosinase inhibitory effect have not been investigated yet. Bioassay-guided isolation was conducted on the aboveground parts, resulting in the isolation of 10 compounds (1–10). Their chemical structures were confirmed by their spectral data and comparison with literature data. It might be worth pointing out that compounds 3–9 were isolated from the genus Lycopodiastrum for the first time. The bioassay revealed that compounds 6 and 7 displayed moderate mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity (IC₅₀ = 1.90 and 2.43 mM, respectively), which was close to the positive control kojic acid (IC₅₀ = 0.17 mM). Moreover, the in silico experiments disclosed that Lys180, His178 and other amino residues played key roles in the binding modes between compounds 6 and 7 and mushroom tyrosinase (PDB: 2Y9X). These findings suggested potential for further investigation on this species as a source of cosmetic ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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37 pages, 989 KiB

Open AccessReview

In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Sensitisation: Challenges and Future Directions

by Ignacio Losada-Fernández, Ane San Martín, Sergio Moreno-Nombela, Leticia Suárez-Cabrera, Leticia Valencia, Paloma Pérez-Aciego and Diego Velasco

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 173; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040173 - 12 Aug 2025

Viewed by 575

Abstract

Allergic contact dermatitis is one of the most common adverse events associated with cosmetic use. Accordingly, assessment of skin sensitisation hazard is required for safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The transition to the use of alternative methods for testing has made skin sensitisation [...] Read more.

Allergic contact dermatitis is one of the most common adverse events associated with cosmetic use. Accordingly, assessment of skin sensitisation hazard is required for safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The transition to the use of alternative methods for testing has made skin sensitisation an intense field in the past decades. The first alternative methods have been in place for almost a decade, but none as stand-alone replacement for the reference murine Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA). While strategies to combine data from several methods are being evaluated and refined, individual methods face technical limitations. These include issues related to their applicability to highly lipophilic substances and the lack of reliable potency estimation, which remain important obstacles to their widespread adoption as replacement for animal methods. The unique characteristics of in vitro skin models represented an attractive alternative, potentially overcoming these limitations and offering a more physiologically relevant environment for the assessment of the response in keratinocytes and dendritic cells. In this review, we recapitulate how reconstructed human skin models have been used as platforms for skin sensitisation testing, including the latest approaches using organ-on-a-chip and microfluidic technologies, aimed to develop next-generation organotypic skin models with increased complexity and monitoring capabilities. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue In Vitro Skin Models for Skin Function Assessment: Applications in Cosmetics and Dermocosmetics)

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17 pages, 1534 KiB

Open AccessReview

Enzymes DNA Repair in Skin Photoprotection: Strategies Counteracting Skin Cancer Development and Photoaging Strategies

by Ewelina Musielak and Violetta Krajka-Kuźniak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 172; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040172 - 12 Aug 2025

Viewed by 630

Abstract

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a major contributor to skin aging and carcinogenesis, primarily through the induction of DNA damage. While conventional sunscreens provide passive protection by blocking UVR, active photoprotection using DNA repair enzymes offers a strategy to reverse UV-induced DNA lesions at [...] Read more.

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a major contributor to skin aging and carcinogenesis, primarily through the induction of DNA damage. While conventional sunscreens provide passive protection by blocking UVR, active photoprotection using DNA repair enzymes offers a strategy to reverse UV-induced DNA lesions at the molecular level. Enzymes such as photolyase, T4 endonuclease V, and 8-oxoguanine glycosylase address distinct types of DNA damage through light-dependent and -independent mechanisms, complementing the skin’s endogenous repair systems. Advances in nanocarrier technologies and encapsulation methods have improved the stability and delivery of these enzymes in topical formulations. Emerging evidence from clinical studies indicates their potential in reducing actinic keratoses, pigmentation disorders, and photoaging signs, although challenges in regulatory approval, long-term efficacy validation, and formulation optimization remain. This review provides a comprehensive synthesis of the mechanistic, clinical, and formulation aspects of enzyme-based photoprotection, outlines regulatory and ethical considerations, and highlights future directions, including CRISPR-based repair and personalized photoprotection strategies, establishing enzyme-assisted sunscreens as a next-generation approach to comprehensive skin care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 973 KiB

Open AccessReview

Microplastics in Cosmetics: Emerging Risks for Skin Health and the Environment

by Ju Hee Han and Hei Sung Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 171; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040171 - 12 Aug 2025

Viewed by 623

Abstract

Microplastics, increasingly recognized as environmental pollutants, have raised concerns regarding their potential effects on human health. In cosmetics and personal care products, microplastics may pose a risk through skin absorption. This review explores the presence of microplastics in cosmetics, their potential exposure pathways, [...] Read more.

Microplastics, increasingly recognized as environmental pollutants, have raised concerns regarding their potential effects on human health. In cosmetics and personal care products, microplastics may pose a risk through skin absorption. This review explores the presence of microplastics in cosmetics, their potential exposure pathways, and their dermatological implications. Evidence suggests that microplastics can penetrate the skin barrier, induce oxidative stress, promote inflammation, and contribute to premature aging. Despite growing regulatory efforts, global inconsistencies hinder comprehensive policy implementation. Rising environmental and health concerns have also fueled interest in sustainable alternatives such as biodegradable polymers and eco-friendly packaging. Further research is necessary to clarify long-term health effects and guide regulatory strategies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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27 pages, 2726 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Effects of Microwave and Ultrasonic Pretreatments on the Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, and Moisturizing Activities of Yellow Silkworm Cocoon Extracts (Bombyx mori L., var. Nang Lai)

by Sarocha Chareegun, Suvimol Somwongin, Jirasit Inthorn, Saranya Juntrapirom, Watchara Kanjanakawinkul and Wantida Chaiyana

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 170; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040170 - 11 Aug 2025

Viewed by 1180

Abstract

Background: Silkworm cocoons are rich in bioactive compounds beneficial for cosmetic applications. This study presented a novel approach by comparing microwave and ultrasonic pretreatments to enhance silk protein extraction efficiency. The aim was to evaluate the effects of pretreatment methods and extraction solvents [...] Read more.

Background: Silkworm cocoons are rich in bioactive compounds beneficial for cosmetic applications. This study presented a novel approach by comparing microwave and ultrasonic pretreatments to enhance silk protein extraction efficiency. The aim was to evaluate the effects of pretreatment methods and extraction solvents on the bioactive components, physicochemical properties, and biological activities of silkworm cocoon extracts for cosmetic applications. Methods: Cocoons of Bombyx mori (Nang Lai) were pretreated using conventional soaking (12 h), microwave (3 min), or ultrasonication (30 min), and then subjected to aqueous or enzymatic extraction. The extracts were analyzed for protein, phenolic, and flavonoid content. Structural and thermal properties were characterized using infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, differential scanning calorimetry, and thermogravimetric analysis. Antioxidant and anti-aging properties were assessed by measuring the inhibition of nitric oxide, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH^•), and collagenase. Skin moisturizing effects and irritation potential were tested. Results: Silkworm cocoons pretreated with microwave (ALM) and ultrasonication (ALS), followed by enzymatic extraction, had the highest yields (21.6 ± 0.5% and 21.7 ± 0.4%, respectively). Despite their slightly lower protein contents, these extracts showed elevated phenolic and flavonoid content. ALM and ALS demonstrated strong antioxidant activities, with DPPH^• scavenging of 65.9 ± 0.2% and 65.2 ± 0.3%, collagenase inhibition of 60.3 ± 0.8% and 59.7 ± 1.7%, and nitric oxide inhibition of 13.5 ± 0.4% and 12.9 ± 0.2%, respectively. Skin moisturizing effects increased by 63.6 ± 2.1% for ALM and 61.2 ± 1.5% for ALS, compared to 1.3 ± 0.6% in the control. All extracts were found to be non-irritating for topical application, indicating their safety for skincare formulations. Conclusions: Microwave and ultrasonication pretreatments, in combination with enzymatic extraction, provide an effective, time-efficient, and sustainable method for producing silkworm cocoon extracts with promising cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 1768 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Pomegranate Peels: A Promising Source of Biologically Active Compounds with Potential Application in Cosmetic Products

by Yulian Tumbarski, Ivan Ivanov, Radka Vrancheva, Nadezhda Mazova and Krastena Nikolova

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 169; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040169 - 11 Aug 2025

Viewed by 502

Abstract

As a rich source of biologically active compounds, pomegranate peel is a valuable by-product with applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors. The present study aimed to investigate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, photoprotective activity and application in a cosmetic [...] Read more.

As a rich source of biologically active compounds, pomegranate peel is a valuable by-product with applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors. The present study aimed to investigate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, photoprotective activity and application in a cosmetic emulsion of extracts obtained from pomegranate peel by different solvents. The analysis of phenolic compounds was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC); the total phenolic content (TPC) and the total flavonoid content (TFC) were evaluated using standard spectrophotometric methods; the antioxidant activity was assessed by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical-scavenging, ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and 2,2′-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays; antimicrobial screening was performed against twenty test microorganisms; the ultraviolet (UV) protection effect of extracts and cosmetic emulsion was assessed spectrophotometrically in the wavelength range of 290–320 nm. HPLC analysis revealed fourteen phenolic compounds, including four phenolic acids (ellagic, gallic, p-coumaric, and ferulic), two tannins (pedunculagin and punicalagin), six flavonoids (myricetin, hesperidin, quercetin, luteolin, kaempferol, and apigenin), and two quercetin glycosides (rutin and hyperoside). The four pomegranate peel extracts demonstrated high TPC, TFC and antioxidant potential (DMSO > 70% ethanolic > methanolic > aqueous), and significant antimicrobial activity. The four extracts showed a remarkable UV protection effect. When applied in a cosmetic emulsion, the ethanolic extract showed sun protection factor (SPF) values from 13.59 (0.5 mg/g) to 50.65 (5 mg/g). Based on the results obtained, we can conclude that pomegranate peel is a promising source of bioactive compounds, which can be successfully utilized by integration into various pharmaceutical and value-added skin health products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 1382 KiB

Open AccessReview

Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia and the Role of Cosmeceuticals in Its Pathogenesis

by Kristijan Harak, Lucija Tomić Krsnik, Marija Vukojević, Branka Marinović and Zrinka Bukvić Mokos

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 168; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040168 - 9 Aug 2025

Viewed by 335

Abstract

Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a primary lymphocytic cicatricial alopecia characterized by progressive frontotemporal hairline recession, frequently accompanied by eyebrow and body hair loss. Once considered rare, FFA is now recognized as the most common form of scarring alopecia, predominantly affecting postmenopausal women. [...] Read more.

Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a primary lymphocytic cicatricial alopecia characterized by progressive frontotemporal hairline recession, frequently accompanied by eyebrow and body hair loss. Once considered rare, FFA is now recognized as the most common form of scarring alopecia, predominantly affecting postmenopausal women. Although its pathogenesis remains unclear, hormonal, genetic, autoimmune, and environmental factors have been implicated. Among environmental contributors, the potential role of cosmeceuticals has received increasing attention, with particular emphasis on sunscreen and facial moisturizers. Patch testing has identified sensitization to allergens frequently found in these products. However, due to numerous limitations in the existing studies, the association between cosmeceuticals and FFA remains controversial. As the prevalence of FFA continues to rise alongside widespread cosmetic product use, understanding their potential role in disease pathogenesis is essential. Current findings highlight the need for further investigation into environmental triggers. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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23 pages, 1364 KiB

Open AccessReview

Unraveling the Gut–Skin Axis: The Role of Microbiota in Skin Health and Disease

by Camelia Munteanu, Sabina Turti and Sorin Marian Marza

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 167; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040167 - 8 Aug 2025

Viewed by 1168

Abstract

The complex interrelationship between the gut microbiota and the skin, commonly known as the “gut–skin axis” has become a crucial field of study for comprehending skin health and illness. Systemic immunity, inflammation, and metabolism are all modulated by this two-way communication mechanism, which [...] Read more.

The complex interrelationship between the gut microbiota and the skin, commonly known as the “gut–skin axis” has become a crucial field of study for comprehending skin health and illness. Systemic immunity, inflammation, and metabolism are all modulated by this two-way communication mechanism, which ultimately affects skin homeostasis. Numerous dermatological disorders, such as rosacea, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and acne vulgaris, have been linked to dysbiosis in the gut microbiota. On the other hand, the composition of the gut microbiome may be impacted by skin disorders. Highlighting the important microbial metabolites and immunological processes involved in this interaction, this abstract examines the current understanding of the gut–skin axis. It also talks about the possible therapeutic benefits of using probiotics, synbiotics, and prebiotics to target the gut microbiota to treat and prevent skin conditions. Gaining insight into this intricate interaction opens up exciting possibilities for creating innovative, all-encompassing dermatological treatment strategies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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17 pages, 3690 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating the Effect of Fresh and Aged Antioxidant Formulations in Skin Protection Against UV Damage

by John Ivarsson, Patricia Brieva, Hina Choudhary and Giuseppe Valacchi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 166; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040166 - 7 Aug 2025

Viewed by 436

Abstract

Introduction: Extrinsic skin damage is often a result of oxidative stress caused by exposure to environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, ozone (O₃), and various pollutants. As a result, topical antioxidants have been evaluated for their effectiveness in mitigating or [...] Read more.

Introduction: Extrinsic skin damage is often a result of oxidative stress caused by exposure to environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, ozone (O₃), and various pollutants. As a result, topical antioxidants have been evaluated for their effectiveness in mitigating or reversing skin damage caused by environmental factors. Topical antioxidants containing a combination of l-ascorbic acid, tocopherol, and ferulic acid have significantly improved markers of skin health after exposure to environment-induced skin damage. However, research suggests that l-ascorbic acid and tocopherol tend to be relatively unstable, possibly affecting their efficacy against outdoor stressor damage. It has been shown that ferulic acid significantly improves the stability of both l-ascorbic acid and tocopherol, but its long-term stabilization effects on these antioxidants are relatively unknown. Material and Methods: This study evaluated the time-dependent effectiveness of a topical antioxidant mix containing 15% l-ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid (AOX) on UV-induced skin damage. Skin biopsies (12 mm, n = 60) were placed in a 6-well plate with medium and incubated at 37 °C and 5% CO₂ overnight. The day after, skin samples were pretreated with 10 µL of differently aged AOX (0-, 6-, 12-, and 36-month-old) and then exposed to different doses of UV light (100, 200, 400 mJ/cm²) daily over four days. AOX formulations were stored in a cool, dry, and dark place at approximately 20–22 °C during the whole study. This study evaluated 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE) and 8-hydroxy-2′-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) as oxidative damage and skin DNA damage markers, Collagen1 and Filaggrin as skin structure, and IL-8 and Nrf2 as inflammatory and defensive response. Results: UV exposure significantly increased oxidative and inflammatory markers in human skin explants affecting also filaggrin and collagen levels. However, pre-treatment with the antioxidant formulation, particularly in its younger formulations (0-, 6-, and 12-month-old), significantly reduced the damaging effect of UV. Additionally, all antioxidant formulations effectively mitigated UV-induced damage across all doses. Conclusions: Our results indicate that pre-treatment with this formulation consistently reduces UV-induced oxidative damage and DNA damage in human skin explants, regardless of the formulation age and the discoloration state. Although effective, the protective capacity of aged formulations may be reduced only when extreme UV exposure is tested, a condition that is unlikely to occur under typical environmental conditions. These results support ferulic acid as a stabilization agent for topical antioxidant mixtures. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 2709 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Metagenomic Analysis of the Skin Microbiota of Brazilian Women: How to Develop Anti-Aging Cosmetics Based on This Knowledge?

by Raquel Allen Garcia Barbeto Siqueira, Ana Luiza Viana Pequeno, Yasmin Rosa Santos, Romualdo Morandi-Filho, Alexandra Lan, Edileia Bagatin, Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva, Newton Andreo-Filho and Patricia Santos Lopes

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 165; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040165 - 5 Aug 2025

Viewed by 469

Abstract

Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of [...] Read more.

Metagenomic studies have provided deeper insights into the complex interactions between the skin and its microbiota. However, limited research has been conducted on the skin microbiota of Brazilian women. Given that Brazil ranks as the fourth-largest consumer of cosmetics worldwide, the development of new tools to analyze skin microbiota is crucial for formulating cosmetic products that promote a healthy microbiome. Skin samples were analyzed using the Illumina platform. Biometrology assessments were applied. The results showed pH variations were more pronounced in the older age group, along with higher transepidermal water loss values. Metagenomic analysis showed a predominance of Actinobacteria (83%), followed by Proteobacteria (7%), Firmicutes (9%) and Bacteroidetes (1%). In the older group (36–45 years old), an increase in Actinobacteria (87%) was observed and a decrease in Proteobacteria (6%). Moreover, the results differ from the international literature, since an increase in proteobacteria (13.9%) and a decrease in actinobacteria (46.7%) were observe in aged skin. The most abundant genus identified was Propionibacterium (84%), being the dominant species. Interestingly, previous studies have suggested a decline in Cutibacterium abundance with aging; although there is no significant difference, it is possible to observe an increasing trend in this genus in older skin. These studies can clarify many points about the skin microbiota of Brazilian women, and these findings could lead to the development of new cosmetics based on knowledge of the skin microbiome. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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19 pages, 3697 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Investigating the Behavior of a Natural Emulsifier in One-Pot and Standard Cosmetic Emulsions

by Mauro Battaiotto, Paolo Sonzini, Simone Conti, Miryam Chiara Malacarne and Enrico Caruso

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 164; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040164 - 5 Aug 2025

Viewed by 511

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form emulsions, which are among the main cosmetic formulations. An important aspect in this regard is the evaluation of emulsions’ stability over time and emulsions’ production methodology. In this paper, a comparison is made between two emulsion production technologies, the Standard and the “One-Pot” methods, through the characterization of the raw material ABWAX^® Revomul, a multifunctional wax for cosmetic use which consists of a low-melting structuring wax of vegetal origin (Rhus wax) and a natural emulsifier (Polyglyceril-3 Stearate). First, we evaluated the affinity between the wax raw materials and emollients of different chemical nature; then, we analyzed the impact of the production method on the emulsions to identify similarities and differences. ABWAX^® Revomul demonstrated a high level of effectiveness in regard to stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. This study suggests that from an industrial point of view, the application of the two procedures allows products with different characteristics to be obtained, consequently allowing a specific method to be chosen to obtain the desired product. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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11 pages, 1507 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Peony Root Extract Controls AGE–RAGE Interaction, Suppresses AGE Formation, and Reduces Skin Dullness

by Kyoko Kanai, Kazal Boron Biswas, Asuka Hirasawa, Misaki Futamura, Kiyotaka Tanaka and Kotaro Sakamoto

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 163; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040163 - 4 Aug 2025

Viewed by 705

Abstract

Skin dullness contributes to a fatigued and aged appearance, often exceeding one’s biological age. It is a common dermatological concern influenced by aging and poor lifestyle habits, regardless of ethnicity or age. This study aimed to examine advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and [...] Read more.

Skin dullness contributes to a fatigued and aged appearance, often exceeding one’s biological age. It is a common dermatological concern influenced by aging and poor lifestyle habits, regardless of ethnicity or age. This study aimed to examine advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and their receptor (receptor for AGEs [RAGE]) as contributing factors to skin dullness. AGEs themselves have a yellowish hue, contributing to “yellow dullness.” Additionally, AGE–RAGE signaling promotes melanin production in melanocytes and impairs keratinocyte differentiation as a result of inflammation. Therefore, regulating the AGE–RAGE interaction may help reduce skin dullness. Through screening various natural ingredients, we found that peony root extract (PRE) inhibits AGE formation and blocks AGE–RAGE binding. Furthermore, the presence of PRE leads to the suppression of AGE-induced melanin production in melanocytes and the restoration of impaired keratinocyte differentiation in glycated basement membrane components. In a human clinical study, topical application of a 1% PRE-containing lotion for 2 weeks significantly reduced melanin content, with a trend toward decreased AGE accumulation and visible spots on the cheeks. These findings support the potential of PRE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that comprehensively addresses skin dullness by modulating the AGE–RAGE interaction. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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1 pages, 126 KiB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Wang et al. Effects of Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate on UV-Induced Skin Ageing and Therapeutic Enhancement. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 68

by Yuan Wang, Xin Nie, Jiangming Zhong, Jing Wang, Lanyue Zhang and Peng Shu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 162; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040162 - 4 Aug 2025

Viewed by 289

Abstract

In the publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

17 pages, 1310 KiB

Open AccessReview

Lip Photoprotection Patents (2014–2024): Key Trends and Emerging Technologies

by Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Ana Sofia Guerrero Casas, Leonardo Castellanos, Mairim Russo Serafini and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 161; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040161 - 29 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1115

Abstract

The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific [...] Read more.

The lips, due to their unique anatomical characteristics of a thin stratum corneum, the absence of sebaceous glands, and limited melanin content are particularly vulnerable to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, necessitating specialized photoprotective care. While facial sunscreens are widely available, the development of lip-specific sun protection products remains underexplored. This study aims to analyze technological trends and innovations in lip photoprotection by reviewing patents published between 2014 and 2024. A comprehensive patent search using the IPC code A61Q19 and the keywords “lip” and “sunscreen” identified 17 relevant patents across China, the United States, and Japan. The patents were examined for active ingredients, formulation strategies, and use of botanical or sustainable excipients. The findings revealed that patented formulations predominantly rely on well-established UV filters such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, and avobenzone, often combined with antioxidants like ferulic acid and rutin for enhanced efficacy. Lipid-based excipients were widely used to improve texture, hydration, and product stability. Although many formulations exhibit a conservative ingredient profile, the strategic combination of UV filters with natural antioxidants and moisturizing lipids demonstrates a multifunctional approach aimed at enhancing both protection and user experience. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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20 pages, 949 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring the Antioxidant and Preservative Potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth Essential Oil in Pure and Encapsulated Forms for Cosmetic Applications

by M. Fernanda Lopes, Sandra M. Gomes, Wanderley P. Oliveira and Lúcia Santos

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 160; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040160 - 28 Jul 2025

Viewed by 732

Abstract

The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study [...] Read more.

The increasing demand for sustainable and safer alternatives in the cosmetic industry has driven the search for multifunctional natural ingredients. Essential oils (EOs), known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant activities, are promising candidates with which to replace synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This study aimed to evaluate the preservative and antioxidant potential of Lippia origanoides Kunth essential oil, in pure and encapsulated in β-cyclodextrin form, for cosmetic applications. The EO exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with low IC₅₀ values in DPPH and ABTS assays, and demonstrated antimicrobial efficacy, particularly against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. Six cosmetic cream formulations were developed and tested for physicochemical and microbiological stability. Formulations with pure EO maintained high antioxidant performance and remained free of bacterial and fungal contamination over time, outperforming the commercial preservatives. In contrast, formulations with encapsulated EO exhibited delayed antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, indicating gradual release. Overall, Lippia origanoides EO proved to be an effective natural alternative to synthetic preservatives and antioxidants. This approach aligns with the current trend of eco-friendly formulations, offering a sustainable solution by incorporating plant-derived bioactives into cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 1425 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Blackberry (Rubus spp. Xavante Cultivar) Oil-Loaded PCL Nanocapsules: Sustainable Bioactive for In Vitro Collagen-Boosting Skincare

by Daniela F. Maluf, Brenda A. Lopes, Mariana D. Miranda, Luana C. Teixeira, Ana P. Horacio, Amanda Jansen, Madeline S. Correa, Guilherme dos Anjos Camargo, Jessica Mendes Nadal, Jane Manfron, Patrícia M. Döll-Boscardin and Paulo Vitor Farago

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 159; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040159 - 25 Jul 2025

Viewed by 632

Abstract

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was [...] Read more.

Background: Blackberry seed oil (BSO), obtained from Rubus spp. Xavante cultivar via supercritical CO₂ extraction, contains bioactive lipids and antioxidants, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor solubility and stability. Nanoencapsulation with poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL) can overcome these limitations. Methods: BSO was characterized by Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry and incorporated into PCL nanocapsules (NCBSO) using the preformed polymer deposition method. Physicochemical properties, stability (at 4 °C, room temperature, and 37 °C for 90 days), cytotoxicity, and collagen production were assessed in human fibroblasts. Additionally, a predictive in silico analysis using PASS Online, Molinspiration, and SEA platforms was performed to identify the bioactivities of major BSO compounds related to collagen synthesis, antioxidant potential, and anti-aging effects. Results: NCBSO showed a nanometric size of ~267 nm, low polydispersity (PDI < 0.2), negative zeta potential (−28 mV), and spherical morphology confirmed by FE-SEM. The dispersion remained stable across all tested temperatures, preserving pH and colloidal properties. In particular, BSO and NCBSO at 100 µg.mL⁻¹ significantly enhanced in vitro collagen production by 170% and 200%, respectively, compared to untreated cells (p < 0.01). Superior bioactivity was observed for NCBSO. The in silico results support the role of key compounds in promoting collagen biosynthesis and protecting skin structure. No cytotoxic effects were achieved. Conclusions: The nanoencapsulation of BSO into PCL nanocapsules ensured formulation stability and potentiated collagen production. These findings support the potential of NCBSO as a promising candidate for future development as a collagen-boosting cosmeceutical. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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13 pages, 1520 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Dynamic vs. Static Light Scattering: Evaluating the Tandem Use of Dynamic Light Scattering and Optical Microscopy as an Attractive Alternative for Oleosomes Size Characterization

by Idit Yuli, Lotan Ben Yakov, Ariel Gliksberg and Paul Salama

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 158; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040158 - 25 Jul 2025

Viewed by 509

Abstract

Accurate characterization of oleosome particle size distribution is needed for understanding their functionality in various applications. Traditionally, high-cost methods such as static laser diffraction and confocal or electron microscopy have been used. The current study presents a cost-effective alternative by combining optical microscopy [...] Read more.

Accurate characterization of oleosome particle size distribution is needed for understanding their functionality in various applications. Traditionally, high-cost methods such as static laser diffraction and confocal or electron microscopy have been used. The current study presents a cost-effective alternative by combining optical microscopy (OM) with image analysis and dynamic light scattering (DLS) to evaluate particle size distribution in safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oleosomes. Monodisperse and polydisperse standards (2 µm and 1–10 µm, respectively) were selected to validate instrument performance. The use of a smaller cuvette with a shorter path length in DLS extended its detection capabilities by minimizing multiple scattering and thermal effects. DLS and OM produced relatively consistent results, accurate particles’ diameters and distribution widths that agreed well with the standards. In contrast, static light scattering (SLS) showed strong sensitivity to the weighting method used (by number vs. by volume). In the case of polydisperse standard, volume-weighted SLS overestimated the particle size and yielded a broader distribution with a span of 2.2 compared to a span value of 0.8 as reported by the supplier. These findings highlight the importance of method selection and demonstrate the potential of combining DLS and OM as a practical and reliable approach for oleosome characterization. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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20 pages, 954 KiB

Open AccessReview

Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetic Formulation: Predictive Modeling for Safety, Tolerability, and Regulatory Perspectives

by Antonio Di Guardo, Federica Trovato, Carmen Cantisani, Annunziata Dattola, Steven P. Nisticò, Giovanni Pellacani and Alessia Paganelli

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 157; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040157 - 24 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1397

Abstract

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, [...] Read more.

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, and prebiotics. These technologies are employed to forecast critical properties such as texture, stability, and shelf-life, optimizing both product performance and user experience. The integration of computational toxicology and ML algorithms also allows for early prediction of skin sensitization risks, including the likelihood of adverse events such as allergic contact dermatitis. Furthermore, AI models can support efficacy assessment, bridging formulation science with dermatological outcomes. The article also addresses the ethical, regulatory, and safety challenges associated with AI in cosmetic science, underlining the need for transparency, accountability, and harmonized standards. The potential of AI to reshape dermocosmetic innovation is vast, but it must be approached with robust oversight and a commitment to user well-being. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 8559 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Recombinant Type XVII Collagen Promotes Hair Growth by Activating the Wnt/β-Catenin and SHH/GLI Signaling Pathways

by Yuyao Zhang, Shiyu Yin, Ru Xu, Jiayu Xiao, Rui Yi, Jiahui Mao, Zhiguang Duan and Daidi Fan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040156 - 23 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1207

Abstract

(1) Background: As society progresses, increasing numbers of individuals are experiencing hair loss, which can be attributed to factors such as unhealthy diets, insufficient sleep, stress, and hormonal imbalances. Currently available pharmacological treatments for hair loss often cause undesirable side effects, highlighting the [...] Read more.

(1) Background: As society progresses, increasing numbers of individuals are experiencing hair loss, which can be attributed to factors such as unhealthy diets, insufficient sleep, stress, and hormonal imbalances. Currently available pharmacological treatments for hair loss often cause undesirable side effects, highlighting the urgent need to explore safer and more effective agents to promote hair restoration. This study investigated the role of recombinant human type XVII collagen derived from the α1 chain (rhCOL17A1) in facilitating hair growth and restoration. (2) Methods: We analyzed the impact of rhCOL17A1 on the mRNA expression of several growth factors, as well as Bcl-2 and Bax, at the cellular level. Moreover, the effects of rhCOL17A1 on the expression of key proteins in the Wnt/β-catenin and Sonic Hedgehog (SHH)/GLI signaling pathways were examined by Western blotting (WB). At the organismal level, we established a model in C57BL/6 mice through chronic subcutaneous administration of 5% testosterone propionate. We subsequently assessed the effect of rhCOL17A1 on hair regrowth via histological analysis using hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining and immunofluorescence staining. (3) Results: rhCOL17A1 contributes to the resistance of hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) to apoptosis. rhCOL17A1 activates the Wnt/β-catenin and SHH/GLI signaling pathways, and increases the expression of type XVII collagen (COLXVII), thereby creating a favorable environment for hair growth. Furthermore, rhCOL17A1 exerts a significant growth-promoting effect at the animal level. (4) Conclusions: rhCOL17 promotes hair growth by activating the Wnt/β-catenin and SHH/GLI signaling pathways and upregulating COLXVII expression. Full article

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15 pages, 1669 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Prospective Evaluation of a Thermogenic Topical Cream-Gel Containing Caffeine, Genistein, and Botanical Extracts for the Treatment of Moderate to Severe Cellulite

by Vittoria Giulia Bianchi, Matteo Riccardo Di Nicola, Anna Cerullo, Giovanni Paolino and Santo Raffaele Mercuri

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040155 - 21 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1394

Abstract

Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a [...] Read more.

Cellulite, characterised by cutaneous dimpling, surface irregularities, and dermal atrophy skin texture, affects up to 90% of post-pubertal females. It is a multifactorial condition involving anatomical, hormonal, and metabolic components, primarily affecting the thighs and buttocks. Despite numerous available therapies, there remains a high demand for effective, non-invasive, and well-tolerated treatment options. This single-centre, in vivo, prospective study evaluated the efficacy of a non-pharmacological, thermogenic topical cream-gel combined with manual massage in women with symmetrical grade II or III cellulite (Nürnberger–Müller scale). A total of 56 female participants (aged 18–55 years) were enrolled and instructed to apply the product twice daily for eight weeks to the thighs and buttocks. Efficacy was assessed using instrumental skin profilometry (ANTERA^® 3D CS imaging system), dermatological clinical grading, and patient self-assessment questionnaires. Quantitative analysis showed a mean reduction of 23.5% in skin indentation volume (p < 0.01) and a mean decrease of 1.1 points on the cellulite severity scale by week 8. Patient-reported outcomes revealed 85.7% satisfaction with visible results and 91% satisfaction with product texture and ease of application. Dermatological evaluation confirmed no clinically significant adverse reactions, and only 3.5% of participants reported mild and transient skin sensitivity. These findings suggest that this topical cream-gel formulation, when used in conjunction with manual massage, represents a well-tolerated and non-invasive option for the cosmetic improvement of moderate to severe cellulite. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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13 pages, 1925 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Ethnic Differences in Women’s Perception of Simulated Facial Aging over a 15-Year Horizon: A GAN-Based Model Approach

by Frederic Flament, Panagiotis-Alexandros Bokaris, Julien Despois, Frederic Woodland, Adrien Chretien, Paul Tartrat and Guive Balooch

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040154 - 21 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1056

Abstract

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based [...] Read more.

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based algorithm then aged the photographs by 10 (T10) and 15 (T15) years. A total of 246 women from China, France, and Thailand compared these images in pairs (T0 vs. T0 + 10 or T0 + 15) and provided feedback on their overall impressions, realism, and psychological acceptance via a questionnaire. Besides lower face ptosis (p < 0.01), the simulated images revealed that regardless of ethnicity, there were no significant differences in grading. Irrespective of ethnic background, 62–78% of overall panelists found the projections realistic and liked them, while 85–96% of panelists (Chinese and French) were willing to test them. A total of 47% of Thai panelists were reluctant to try, while 4–14% found it scary. This indicated some degree of cultural influence. This study confirms women’s acceptance of future facial appearance with some degree of cultural divergence. It also highlights a valid methodology to explore skin aging for a more realistic and personalized cosmetic improvement and innovation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 3907 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Validation of Plant-Derived Materials for Skin Application

by Euihyun Kim, Hyo Hyun Seo, Dong Sun Shin, Jihyeok Song, Seon Kyu Yun, Jeong Hun Lee and Sang Hyun Moh

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 153; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040153 - 21 Jul 2025

Viewed by 925

Abstract

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with vegan and ethical standards. Unlike compounds such as polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), which is derived from the testis or seminal fluid of Salmonidae species and raises concerns regarding its origin, sustainability, and consumer acceptability, PDMs provide a cleaner, ethically preferable profile. In this study, we evaluated 50 PDM candidates using in vitro cell viability, wound healing, and immunocytochemistry assays, along with primary skin irritation tests in human participants. None of the samples showed harmful effects. Notably, sample Nos. 38 and 42 demonstrated significant wound-healing capacity and upregulated filaggrin expression without causing notable irritation in clinical testing. These findings support the biological activity and safety of specific PDMs as functional cosmetic ingredients. This study presents scientifically validated evidence for plant-based alternatives to animal-derived materials and offers a new milestone in the shift toward sustainable and ethical cosmetic development. By bridging the gap between consumer demand and scientific rigor, this study provides a robust platform for future innovations in vegan cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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21 pages, 7139 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Study of a Topical and Oral Combination Therapy Containing Oleanolic Acid, Apigenin, and Biotinyl Tripeptide-1 in Patients with Androgenetic Alopecia: A Prospective, Open-Label Trial

by Vlad-Mihai Voiculescu and Mihai Lupu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 152; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040152 - 16 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1652

Abstract

Background: Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent condition characterized by progressive follicular miniaturization. Minoxidil topical treatment and finasteride oral treatment are the golden standard, but they are limited by local and systemic adverse effects. Combination therapies targeting both follicular stimulation and nutritional support [...] Read more.

Background: Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent condition characterized by progressive follicular miniaturization. Minoxidil topical treatment and finasteride oral treatment are the golden standard, but they are limited by local and systemic adverse effects. Combination therapies targeting both follicular stimulation and nutritional support may enhance clinical outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of a combined topical and oral therapy compared to topical monotherapy in patients with AGA using trichoscopic and clinical parameters. Methods: In this open-label, prospective trial, 48 patients were assigned to receive either a topical spray alone (Group A) or in combination with oral capsules (Group B) for 3 months. Trichoscopic parameters were assessed at baseline and post-treatment. Paired and independent t-tests, along with Cohen’s d effect sizes, were used to evaluate intra- and inter-group changes. Results: Both groups demonstrated improvements in hair density, thickness, and anagen/telogen ratio. Group B exhibited significantly greater increases in total hair count and anagen conversion (p < 0.05). The effect sizes ranged from small to large, with the most pronounced changes observed in anagen/telogen ratio (Cohen’s d = 0.841) in males. Conclusions: The combination of topical and oral treatment led to greater trichologic improvements than topical therapy alone. While extrapolated projections at 6 and 12 months suggest continued benefit, future studies with longer duration and placebo controls are required to validate these findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2229 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking the Skin Health-Promoting Ingredients of Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica Thunberg) Flower-Loaded Polyglycerol Fatty Acid Ester-Based Low-Energy Nanoemulsions

by Nara Yaowiwat, Pingtawan Bunmark, Siripat Chaichit, Worrapan Poomanee and Karnkamol Trisopon

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040151 - 15 Jul 2025

Viewed by 987

Abstract

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes [...] Read more.

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes associated with anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, the low-energy nanoemulsions based on optimally formulated polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFEs), developed through D-optimality, were designed for the incorporation of HSF extract. The result revealed that HSF is a rich source of diverse phenolic and flavonoid compounds that contribute to its remarkable antioxidant capacity. Molecular docking analysis indicates that its compounds exhibit anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities, particularly through collagenase, hyaluronidase, and TNF-α inhibition. Furthermore, D-optimality revealed that HSF-loaded nanoemulsions can be fabricated by a surfactant to oil ratio (SOR) of 2:1 with a ratio of low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) surfactant to high HLB surfactant (LHR) of 1:2. Polyglyceryl-6 laurate as a high HLB surfactant produced the optimal nanoemulsion with small particle size and possessed an encapsulation efficiency (EE) of 74.32 ± 0.19%. This is the first report to combine D-optimal design-based nanoemulsion development with a multi-level analysis of HSF, including phytochemical profiling, antioxidant evaluation, and in silico molecular docking. These findings highlight that HSF-loaded polyglycerol fatty acid ester-based nanoemulsions could be a skin health-promoting ingredient and effective alternative for a variety of skincare applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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23 pages, 1290 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking Nature’s Anti-Aging Secrets: The Potential of Natural Mineral Waters Combined with Plant Extracts in Cosmetics

by Ana Rita Gama, Carolina P. Gomes, Cátia Caetano, Ana Sofia Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Lillian Barros, Paula Plasencia, Juliana Garcia, Daniela Correia, Maria José Alves, José Martinez-de-Oliveira, Ana Palmeira-de-Oliveira and Rita Palmeira-de-Oliveira

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 150; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040150 - 14 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1299

Abstract

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, [...] Read more.

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, two day creams, and two night creams) with innovative and non-irritating profiles. The rational design was guided by market analysis and ingredient properties. Prototype formulations were created with two core mixtures: (1) natural mineral water from Termas de Unhais da Serra and Thymus × citriodorus hydrolat and (2) natural mineral water from Termas de Chaves and aqueous Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry) extract. The products were evaluated for stability (4 °C and 40 °C, 4 weeks), safety (according to EC Regulation No. 1223/2009), including in vitro testing for skin irritation potential (epiderm model; OECD TG 439). The market study highlighted a gap in anti-aging products combining natural extracts and thermal waters. All prototypes showed desirable textures and remained stable under test conditions. No irritating effects were observed. The results support the development of effective anti-aging cosmetics rooted in natural resources. These innovative products can meet the market demand for natural and sustainable skincare solutions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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22 pages, 1267 KiB

Open AccessReview

Beauty’s Blind Spot: Unmasking the Ocular Side Effects and Concerns of Eye Cosmetics

by Kasra Cheraqpour

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 149; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040149 - 14 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1307

Abstract

Nowadays, a significant portion of the population uses eye cosmetics, a trend that is not limited to women, as men increasingly adopt stylish makeup techniques. Eye cosmetics, often termed eye makeup, include a diverse array of products such as eyelash enhancers (mascara, false [...] Read more.

Nowadays, a significant portion of the population uses eye cosmetics, a trend that is not limited to women, as men increasingly adopt stylish makeup techniques. Eye cosmetics, often termed eye makeup, include a diverse array of products such as eyelash enhancers (mascara, false eyelashes, growth serums, and dyes), eyelid products (eyeliner, kohl, eye contour cream, and eyeshadow), and eye makeup removers. There is a persistent interest among dermatologists in the influence of eye cosmetics on the skin surrounding the eye. The formulation of these cosmetics typically consists of various ingredients, some of which may present potential health risks to users. The application of eye cosmetics is linked to a range of adverse effects on the ocular surface, which may manifest as mechanical injury, tear film instability, toxicity, inflammation, and infections. Therefore, the use of cosmetics in this sensitive area is of paramount importance, necessitating a cooperative approach among eyecare professionals, dermatologists, and beauty experts. Despite the widespread use of eye makeup, its possible ocular side effects have not been sufficiently addressed. This report aims to elucidate how the use of eye cosmetics represents a lifestyle challenge that may exacerbate or initiate ocular surface and adnexal disorders. Full article

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12 pages, 1563 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Effectiveness and Safety of 1470 nm Non-Ablative Laser Therapy for the Treatment of Striae Distensae: A Pilot Study

by Paweł Kubik, Stefano Bighetti, Luca Bettolini, Wojciech Gruszczyński, Bartłomiej Łukasik, Stefania Guida, Giorgio Stabile, Giovanni Paolino, Elisa María Murillo Herrera, Andrea Carugno, Mario Valenti, Cristina Zane, Vincenzo Maione, Edoardo D’Este and Nicola Zerbinati

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040148 - 11 Jul 2025

Viewed by 1029

Abstract

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common aesthetic concern with limited effective treatment options. This prospective, single-center, open-label study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy in improving skin texture and reducing SD dimensions. Twenty [...] Read more.

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common aesthetic concern with limited effective treatment options. This prospective, single-center, open-label study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy in improving skin texture and reducing SD dimensions. Twenty healthy female volunteers (aged 19–56) with SD of varying stages underwent three laser sessions at three-week intervals. Treatments were delivered using energy densities of 28–35 mJ per point with spot spacing of 0.8–1.2 mm, uniformly delivered over the affected SD lesions. Assessments were performed at baseline, Day 14, Day 35, Day 56–70, and Day 118–132. SD depth and width were measured using high-frequency ultrasound; aesthetic improvement was assessed using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), alongside clinical and photographic evaluations. A statistically significant, progressive reduction in SD size was observed: mean depth decreased from 0.34 mm (SD = 0.16) to 0.18 mm (SD = 0.15), and width decreased from 6.58 mm (SD = 2.65) to 4.40 mm (SD = 2.52) by Day 118–132 (p < 0.01 for both). Most participants reported improvement on GAIS at each follow-up. No severe adverse events occurred; only mild, transient erythema and edema were noted. In conclusion, 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy showed significant efficacy and a favorable safety profile in SD treatment, offering a promising non-invasive option based on fractional thermal stimulation and selective dermal absorption. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)

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