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Cosmetics
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Skin Anti-Aging Strategies
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Skin Anti-Aging Strategies

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 20 January 2025 | Viewed by 7043

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Remo Campiche

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Guest Editor
Dsm-Firmenich, Perfumery & Beauty, Kaiseraugst, Switzerland
Interests: skin aging; photo-aging; pigmentation; skin hydration; skin inflammation; hair aging; cosmetics
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Anti-aging is always in high demand as a skin care claim in the cosmetics industry. Therefore, research on skin aging and the development of strategies and technologies for anti-aging are of paramount importance. More classical approaches comprise mechanisms such as anti-oxidant and DNA repair, anti-inflammation, or extracellular matrix protection and replenishment. More recent trends are the role of the skin microbiome in skin aging, senescence and senolytics, exosomes, or the inclusion of the senses, and neurocosmetics, to name a few. Skin aging can have various causes, such as UV irradiation, pollution, or more recent climate change in general, but also stress and lifestyle, among others. In addition, regional variations and the distinct needs of consumers and ethnicities become more and more apparent. This Special Issue of Cosmetics is the perfect home for your original paper, review, or communication on past and future trends and strategies in the field of skin anti-aging research and development. It can contain reports on molecular pathways, biochemical mechanisms, as well as human studies and applications such as innovative formulations and devices. We are looking forward to receiving your submissions. 

Dr. Remo Campiche
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • skin aging
  • skin bioactives
  • pathways
  • technologies
  • applications
  • formulations
  • multi-ethnic skin
  • fragrances
  • artificial intelligence
  • sustainability

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Published Papers (4 papers)

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Research

19 pages, 1609 KiB  
Article
Formulation of Biological Sunscreen from Calendula arvensis Capitula Extracts: Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Surface Tension, and UVB Protection Properties Assessed
by Najlae El-Otmani, Ikrame Zeouk and Ahmed Zahidi
Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 216; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060216 - 9 Dec 2024
Viewed by 676
Abstract
Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H [...] Read more.
Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H2O, and H2O) were explored in order to identify the most effective extract for use in a sunscreen formulation. Each extract was analyzed for its phenolic content, as well as antioxidant activities (assessed through DPPH, CAT, and FRAP assays). Enzyme inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase highlighted the low IC50 values of the hydroethanolic extract. Furthermore, the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) against UVB radiation was measured using ultraviolet spectrophotometry. A phytochemical analysis showed phenolic levels between 8 and 27 mg GAE/g, flavonoid concentrations of 7–13 mg QE/g, and tannin levels of 1.15–1.68 mg/mL, alongside moderate antioxidant activity. The ethanol maceration extract reduced the interfacial tension to 2.15 mN/m in 600 s, outperforming the conventional emulsifier polysorbate 20. The sonicated hydroethanolic extract demonstrated remarkable SPF efficacy (SPF = 193.65 ± 0.02), far exceeding that of the standard zinc oxide (SPF = 11.88 ± 0.03). The proposed formulations meet the COSMOS standards, suggesting their potential for certification as biological products. Further clinical and in vivo studies are necessary to confirm their safety and commercial viability. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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11 pages, 2136 KiB  
Article
1,2-Dihydroxy-9H-Xanthen-9-One, a Multifunctional Nature-Inspired Active Ingredient
by Ana Jesus, Sara F. Vieira, Gonçalo Brites, Mylène Carrascal, Helena Ferreira, Nuno M. Neves, Honorina Cidade, Madalena Pinto, Emília Sousa, Isabel F. Almeida and Maria T. Cruz
Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 215; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060215 - 8 Dec 2024
Viewed by 392
Abstract
Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have [...] Read more.
Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have demonstrated biologically notable properties. In particular, 1,2-dihydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one (1,2-DHX) has inhibitory activity against skin enzymes, and metal-chelating and radical-scavenging activities. Therefore, 1,2-DHX is an attractive molecule for cosmetic purposes. With this goal in mind, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic potentials of 1,2-DHX were investigated. 1,2-DHX demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting the synthesis of specific pro-inflammatory mediators, including interleukin-6 (IL-6) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), in human macrophages. This xanthone did not elicit sensitization reactions and did inhibit allergic reactions triggered by a strong skin allergen, suggesting its potential as an anti-allergic compound. 1,2-DHX also revealed mitochondrial antioxidant activity by mitigating rotenone-induced oxidative stress in macrophages by up to 40%. Overall, 1,2-DHX displayed a safety profile and noteworthy biological activities, highlighting its multifunctional profile as an active cosmetic ingredient with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic properties. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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22 pages, 11783 KiB  
Article
Willaertia Lysate: A Hydrobiome-Biosourced Ingredient with Multi-Site Antioxidative and Antiaging Properties
by Morgan Dos Santos, Julie Rorteau, Kilian Laho, Hanan Osman-Ponchet, Manon Barthe, Benjamin Quelard, Antoine Carlino, Adeline Saha and Sandrine Troussieux
Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 200; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060200 - 21 Nov 2024
Viewed by 846
Abstract
Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight [...] Read more.
Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight the signs of aging, a comprehensive program was implemented in this study to evaluate the efficacy of an innovative ingredient, Willaertia lysate, through a multi-scale approach encompassing cellular and advanced 3D skin models. The results show that Willaertia lysate, initially sourced from French Alps thermal spring waters, is able to (i) promote cell migration; (ii) improve the quality and abundance of the extracellular matrix in aged skins and in young skins exposed to UV radiation to a similar level to that in unexposed young skins; (iii) decrease tyrosinase activity and melanin content; and (iv) reduce oxidative stress after UV exposure by decreasing exposome markers such as protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation expression. This complete set of coherent results demonstrates the global protective efficacy of Willaertia lysate against the effects of photoaging. This study is the first to report the use of a protozoan lysate as a natural and biosourced postbiotic active ingredient in the fields of cosmetics and dermocosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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19 pages, 2289 KiB  
Article
Anti-Aging Effects of Low-Molecular-Weight Collagen Peptide Supplementation on Facial Wrinkles and Skin Hydration: Outcomes from a Six-Week Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial
by Juan Antonio Carrillo-Norte, Baldomero García-Mir, Lluis Quintana, Bruno Buracchio and Rafael Guerrero-Bonmatty
Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040137 - 12 Aug 2024
Viewed by 4532
Abstract
In recent decades, there has been a rising demand for anti-aging interventions aimed at postponing or potentially reversing indicators of skin aging. The use of collagen-based nutraceutical supplements has gained popularity as they have shown promise in enhancing skin health and reducing signs [...] Read more.
In recent decades, there has been a rising demand for anti-aging interventions aimed at postponing or potentially reversing indicators of skin aging. The use of collagen-based nutraceutical supplements has gained popularity as they have shown promise in enhancing skin health and reducing signs of aging. The aim of this randomized, placebo-controlled, blinded study was to investigate the effects of 2.5 g COLLinstant® LMW, a novel cosmeceutical containing low-molecular-weight (≤1000 Da) collagen peptides, on skin aging and health. The trial was conducted with 80 healthy women aged 30 years and older. They received a daily oral dose of either the food supplement (n = 40) or placebo (n = 40) for six weeks. Skin assessment was performed based on validated objective methods, such as Visioface 1000D (skin wrinkling), cutometry (elasticity and fatigue), and corneometry (skin hydration) at baseline (T0) and at week 6 (T6). After 6 weeks, participants that received collagen had significant improvements in biometric skin wrinkle parameters from baseline, with a reduction in volume by 46%, in area by 44%, and in depth by 9%, along with a greater increase in skin moisturization (by 34%) than those in the placebo group (p < 0.001). The food supplement did not significantly modify skin firmness or fatigue and had only slight beneficial effects on skin elasticity. The investigational product was well tolerated. The observed effects aligned closely with the subjective assessments reported by study participants. The study provides substantiated evidence supporting the efficacy of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides in restoring altered skin biometric parameters, as objectively assessed. Thus, regular supplementation with this nutraceutical may contribute to achieving smoother and more radiant skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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