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53 Results Found

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
1,029 Views
20 Pages

18 August 2025

This study presents a methodological approach to assess radionuclide contamination in the Baltic Sea near Juodkrante, Lithuania, based on measurements of β- and γ-emissions in seawater, foreshore sand, and dune top sand. Existing assessmen...

  • Article
  • Open Access
2 Citations
2,951 Views
21 Pages

5 August 2024

Foreshore slope is crucial in designing beach berm nourishment schemes and understanding coastal responses to wave forces. Beach berm nourishment often suffers from a high loss rate, necessitating theoretical research and design parameter comparison...

  • Article
  • Open Access
8 Citations
4,143 Views
18 Pages

Wave Overtopping Discharge for Very Gently Sloping Foreshores

  • Thu-Ha Nguyen,
  • Bas Hofland,
  • Vu Dan Chinh and
  • Marcel Stive

13 June 2020

The spectral wave period T m 1 , 0 at the toe of sea-dikes is a crucial parameter to predict wave overtopping discharge over sea-dikes. It is known from literature that this period quickly increases when waves reach shallow foresh...

  • Article
  • Open Access
10 Citations
5,539 Views
28 Pages

Automatic and accurate shoreline position and intertidal foreshore slope detection are challenging and significantly important for coastal dynamics. In the present study, a time series shoreline position and intertidal foreshore slope have been autom...

  • Article
  • Open Access
3 Citations
3,570 Views
27 Pages

Wave Overtopping at Sea Dikes on Shallow Foreshores: A Review, an Evaluation, and Remaining Challenges

  • Gulizar Ozyurt Tarakcioglu,
  • Dogan Kisacik,
  • Vincent Gruwez and
  • Peter Troch

Wave overtopping is a critical parameter in the design of coastal defense structures. Nowadays, several empirical formulations based on small-scale experiments are available in the literature to predict the mean overtopping discharge at dikes on shal...

  • Article
  • Open Access
15 Citations
4,800 Views
19 Pages

Numerical tests are performed to investigate wave transformations of nonlinear nonbreaking regular waves with normal incidence to the shore in decreasing and increasing water depth. The wave height transformation (shoaling) of nonlinear waves can, ju...

  • Article
  • Open Access
8 Citations
5,758 Views
22 Pages

Probabilistic Assessment of Overtopping of Sea Dikes with Foreshores including Infragravity Waves and Morphological Changes: Westkapelle Case Study

  • Patrick Oosterlo,
  • Robert Timothy McCall,
  • Vincent Vuik,
  • Bas Hofland,
  • Jentsje Wouter Van der Meer and
  • Sebastiaan Nicolaas Jonkman

Shallow foreshores in front of coastal dikes can reduce the probability of dike failure due to wave overtopping. A probabilistic model framework is presented, which is capable of including complex hydrodynamics like infragravity waves, and morphologi...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
22 Citations
4,989 Views
37 Pages

An Inter-Model Comparison for Wave Interactions with Sea Dikes on Shallow Foreshores

  • Vincent Gruwez,
  • Corrado Altomare,
  • Tomohiro Suzuki,
  • Maximilian Streicher,
  • Lorenzo Cappietti,
  • Andreas Kortenhaus and
  • Peter Troch

3 December 2020

Three open source wave models are applied in 2DV to reproduce a large-scale wave flume experiment of bichromatic wave transformations over a steep-sloped dike with a mildly-sloped and very shallow foreshore: (i) the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Sto...

  • Article
  • Open Access
22 Citations
5,968 Views
29 Pages

Validation of RANS Modelling for Wave Interactions with Sea Dikes on Shallow Foreshores Using a Large-Scale Experimental Dataset

  • Vincent Gruwez,
  • Corrado Altomare,
  • Tomohiro Suzuki,
  • Maximilian Streicher,
  • Lorenzo Cappietti,
  • Andreas Kortenhaus and
  • Peter Troch

In this paper, a Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations solver, interFoam of OpenFOAM®, is validated for wave interactions with a dike, including a promenade and vertical wall, on a shallow foreshore. Such a coastal defence system...

  • Article
  • Open Access
9 Citations
4,147 Views
22 Pages

12 November 2020

This paper provides a sensitivity analysis around how characterizing sandy, intertidal foreshore evolution in XBeach-X impacts on wave runup and morphological change of a vulnerable, composite gravel beach. The study is motivated by a need for confid...

  • Article
  • Open Access
21 Citations
5,190 Views
12 Pages

Sea defences, such as urban seawalls can fail due to the development of a scour hole at the toe of the structure. The scour depth or the information on ground levels at the structure toe is required for the sustainable management of coastal defences,...

  • Brief Report
  • Open Access
7 Citations
1,544 Views
16 Pages

A First Attempt to Describe the Real-Time Behavior and Fate of Marine Litter Items in the Nearshore and Foreshore under Low Energetic Marine Conditions

  • Giorgio Anfuso,
  • Oscar Álvarez,
  • Grazia Dilauro,
  • Gaetano Sabato,
  • Giovanni Scardino,
  • Angelo Sozio and
  • Angela Rizzo

26 January 2024

A field assessment was carried out in May 2023 in a natural protected area in South Italy to investigate the real-time behavior and fate of common marine litter items at different depths at the nearshore and foreshore under low energetic conditions....

  • Article
  • Open Access
18 Citations
5,720 Views
60 Pages

12 November 2020

Although the cellular microorganism is the fundamental unit of biology, the origin of life (OoL) itself is unlikely to have occurred in a microscale environment. The macrobiont (MB) is the macro-scale setting where life originated. Guided by the meth...

  • Article
  • Open Access
6 Citations
3,838 Views
11 Pages

Cubipod® Armor Design in Depth-Limited Regular Wave-Breaking Conditions

  • M. Esther Gómez-Martín,
  • María P. Herrera,
  • Jose A. Gonzalez-Escriva and
  • Josep R. Medina

Armor stability formulas for mound breakwaters are commonly based on 2D small-scale physical tests conducted in non-overtopping and non-breaking conditions. However, most of the breakwaters built around the world are located in breaking or partially-...

  • Article
  • Open Access
957 Views
19 Pages

Overtopping over Vertical Walls with Storm Walls on Steep Foreshores

  • Damjan Bujak,
  • Nino Krvavica,
  • Goran Lončar and
  • Dalibor Carević

As sea levels rise and extreme weather events become more frequent due to climate change, coastal urban areas are increasingly vulnerable to wave overtopping and flooding. Retrofitting existing vertical seawalls with retreated storm walls represents...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
18 Citations
3,873 Views
16 Pages

Characterization of Overtopping Waves on Sea Dikes with Gentle and Shallow Foreshores

  • Tomohiro Suzuki,
  • Corrado Altomare,
  • Tomohiro Yasuda and
  • Toon Verwaest

27 September 2020

Due to ongoing climate change, overtopping risk is increasing. In order to have effective countermeasures, it is useful to understand overtopping processes in details. In this study overtopping flow on a dike with gentle and shallow foreshores are in...

  • Article
  • Open Access
9 Citations
8,570 Views
18 Pages

Mapping Mangrove Opportunities with Open Access Data: A Case Study for Bangladesh

  • Alejandra Gijón Mancheño,
  • Peter M. J. Herman,
  • Sebastiaan N. Jonkman,
  • Swarna Kazi,
  • Ignacio Urrutia and
  • Mathijs van Ledden

22 July 2021

Mangroves protect coastal areas against hazards like storms or cyclones by attenuating waves and currents, and by trapping floating debris during extreme events. Bangladesh is a very vulnerable country to floods and cyclones, and part of its coastal...

  • Article
  • Open Access
7 Citations
6,520 Views
17 Pages

The Sensitivity of a Dike-Marsh System to Sea-Level Rise—A Model-Based Exploration

  • Richard Marijnissen,
  • Matthijs Kok,
  • Carolien Kroeze and
  • Jantsje van Loon-Steensma

Integrating natural components in flood defence infrastructure can add resilience to sea-level rise. Natural foreshores can keep pace with sea-level rise by accumulating sediment and attenuate waves before reaching the adjacent flood defences. In thi...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
36 Citations
5,080 Views
17 Pages

Long-Term Observations of Beach Variability at Hasaki, Japan

  • Masayuki Banno,
  • Satoshi Nakamura,
  • Taichi Kosako,
  • Yasuyuki Nakagawa,
  • Shin-ichi Yanagishima and
  • Yoshiaki Kuriyama

2 November 2020

Long-term beach observation data for several decades are essential to validate beach morphodynamic models that are used to predict coastal responses to sea-level rise and wave climate changes. At the Hasaki coast, Japan, the beach profile has been me...

  • Article
  • Open Access
2,197 Views
19 Pages

20 February 2025

Coastal zones, which serve as transitional areas between land and sea, possess unique ecological values. Sandy coasts, celebrated for their distinctive natural beauty and ideal recreational settings, have garnered significant attention. However, unco...

  • Article
  • Open Access
24 Citations
5,593 Views
22 Pages

The Use of CFD in the Analysis of Wave Loadings Acting on Seawave Slot-Cone Generators

  • Mariano Buccino,
  • Fabio Dentale,
  • Daniela Salerno,
  • Pasquale Contestabile and
  • Mario Calabrese

2 December 2016

The reliability of Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) in reproducing qualitative and quantitative features of loadings exerted by waves on Seawave Slot-cone Generators (SSG) has been investigated via 17 numerical experiments, conducted with the suite...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
5,021 Views
14 Pages

Nature Meets Infrastructure: The Role of Mangroves in Strengthening Bangladesh’s Coastal Flood Defenses

  • Alejandra Gijón Mancheño,
  • Bramka A. Jafino,
  • Bas Hofland,
  • Bregje K. van Wesenbeeck,
  • Swarna Kazi and
  • Ignacio Urrutia

13 February 2025

Mangroves have been used for coastal protection in Bangladesh since the 1960s, but their integration with embankment designs has not been fully explored. This paper investigates the effect of existing mangroves on required embankment performance, wit...

  • Article
  • Open Access
6 Citations
2,521 Views
16 Pages

Holocene Sea Level Recorded by Beach Rocks at Ionian Coasts of Apulia (Italy)

  • Giuseppe Mastronuzzi,
  • Francesco De Giosa,
  • Gianluca Quarta,
  • Mauro Pallara,
  • Giovanni Scardino,
  • Giovanni Scicchitano,
  • Cosmo Peluso,
  • Carmine Antropoli,
  • Claudio Caporale and
  • Maurizio Demarte

Beach rocks are located along many coasts of the Mediterranean basin. The early diagenesis environment and the mean sea level along the shoreline make these landforms useful in the reconstruction of relative sea-level changes and, in particular, as S...

  • Article
  • Open Access
15 Citations
4,006 Views
19 Pages

When erosion occurs, sand beaches cannot maintain sufficient sand width, foreshore slopes become steeper due to frequent erosion effects, and beaches are trapped in a vicious cycle of vulnerability due to incident waves. Accordingly, beach nourishmen...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
17 Citations
4,572 Views
23 Pages

The present work employs the so-called Evolutionary Polynomial Regression (EPR) algorithm to build up a formula for the assessment of mean wave overtopping discharge for smooth sea dikes and vertical walls. EPR is a data-mining tool that combines and...

  • Review
  • Open Access
23 Citations
11,110 Views
22 Pages

Enhancing the Ecological Value of Sea Dikes

  • Babette Scheres and
  • Holger Schüttrumpf

5 August 2019

Sea dikes protect low-lying hinterlands along many coasts all around the world. Commonly, they are designed as embankments with grass covers or grey revetments accounting for the prevailing hydraulic loads. So far, incorporation of ecological aspects...

  • Review
  • Open Access
108 Citations
13,066 Views
29 Pages

Coastal Sensitivity/Vulnerability Characterization and Adaptation Strategies: A Review

  • Giorgio Anfuso,
  • Matteo Postacchini,
  • Diana Di Luccio and
  • Guido Benassai

Coastal area constitutes a vulnerable environment and requires special attention to preserve ecosystems and human activities therein. To this aim, many studies have been devoted both in past and recent years to analyzing the main factors affecting co...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
11 Citations
4,724 Views
21 Pages

The potential threats to the USA from current and projected sea level rise are significant, with profound environmental, social and economic consequences. This current study continues the refinement and improvement in analysis techniques for sea leve...

  • Article
  • Open Access
2 Citations
2,435 Views
16 Pages

26 May 2022

In the lower Piave river coastal plain (northeast of the Venice Lagoon, Italy), evidences of ancient sandy ridges testify to both the local coastline progradation and retrogradation that occurred during the Holocene. Their arrangement is recognizable...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
1,992 Views
12 Pages

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking...

  • Article
  • Open Access
10 Citations
4,296 Views
19 Pages

Low-Tech and Low-Cost System for High-Resolution Underwater RTK Photogrammetry in Coastal Shallow Waters

  • Marion Jaud,
  • Simon Delsol,
  • Isabel Urbina-Barreto,
  • Emmanuel Augereau,
  • Emmanuel Cordier,
  • François Guilhaumon,
  • Nicolas Le Dantec,
  • France Floc’h and
  • Christophe Delacourt

20 December 2023

Monitoring coastal seabed in very shallow waters (0–5 m) is a challenging methodological issue, even though such data is of major importance to many scientific and technical communities. Over the years, Structure-from-Motion (SfM) photogrammetr...

  • Review
  • Open Access
6 Citations
2,874 Views
17 Pages

15 October 2024

Salinity is an increasing problem for agriculture. Most plant species tolerate low or, at best, moderate soil salinities. However, a small (<1%) proportion of species, termed halophytes, can survive and complete their life cycle in natural habitat...

  • Article
  • Open Access
7 Citations
3,156 Views
24 Pages

The Sibari Plain (northeastern Calabria) shows a well-developed stair of late Quaternary marine/coastal terraces resulting from the interaction between sea level fluctuations and tectonic uplift. This paper (i) provides a stratigraphic description of...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
21 Citations
5,247 Views
18 Pages

Lidar Observations of the Swash Zone of a Low-Tide Terraced Tropical Beach under Variable Wave Conditions: The Nha Trang (Vietnam) COASTVAR Experiment

  • Luís Pedro Almeida,
  • Rafael Almar,
  • Chris Blenkinsopp,
  • Nadia Senechal,
  • Erwin Bergsma,
  • France Floc’h,
  • Charles Caulet,
  • Melanie Biausque,
  • Patrick Marchesiello and
  • Nguyen Trung Viet
  • + 5 authors

A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Li...

  • Article
  • Open Access
16 Citations
3,864 Views
15 Pages

Statistical Analysis of the Stability of Rock Slopes

  • Marcel R.A. van Gent,
  • Ermano de Almeida and
  • Bas Hofland

Physical model tests were performed in a wave flume at Deltares with rock armoured slopes. A shallow foreshore was present. At deep water, the same wave conditions were used, but by applying different water levels, the wave loading on the rock armour...

  • Article
  • Open Access
18 Citations
3,607 Views
22 Pages

6 November 2022

The coastal zone may be considered as the location where the marine and land environments interact dynamically and coexist with human societies. Globally, natural and human systems are being severely threatened by the sea level rise related to climat...

  • Article
  • Open Access
836 Views
24 Pages

Spatial and Temporal Variation in Wave Overtopping Across a Coastal Structure Based on One Year of Field Observations

  • Jennifer Brown,
  • Gerd Masselink,
  • Margaret Yelland,
  • Christopher Stokes,
  • Timothy Poate,
  • Robin Pascal,
  • David Jones,
  • John Walk,
  • Christopher Cardwell and
  • Joseff Saunders
  • + 4 authors

18 November 2025

Coastal managers worldwide must prepare for changes in annual wave overtopping events due to climate change and sea-level rise. Research often assesses overtopping discharges by extreme events at a sea wall crest, typically using data from physical m...

  • Article
  • Open Access
4 Citations
1,971 Views
20 Pages

This research examines the overtopping volumes associated with focused wave groups on smooth dikes with an emerged toe. Focused wave groups are employed to represent the highest waves of random sea states in a compact form, obviating the need to mode...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
1,959 Views
22 Pages

Photogrammetric Investigation of Storm-Induced Erosion Process on Sandy Beach Profile in Medium-Scale Flume

  • Jun Wang,
  • Bo Yang,
  • Bingchen Liang,
  • Zai-Jin You,
  • Zhenlu Wang and
  • Zhaowei Wang

In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the influence of changes in storm wave height and water level on beach response in a medium-scale wave flume. A schematic storm was simulated (rising, apex, and waning phases). A non...

  • Article
  • Open Access
18 Citations
5,268 Views
22 Pages

Decoding Complex Erosion Responses for the Mitigation of Coastal Rockfall Hazards Using Repeat Terrestrial LiDAR

  • Matthew Westoby,
  • Michael Lim,
  • Michelle Hogg,
  • Lesley Dunlop,
  • Matthew Pound,
  • Mateusz Strzelecki and
  • John Woodward

13 August 2020

A key factor limiting our understanding of rock slope behavior and associated geohazards is the interaction between internal and external system controls on the nature, rates, and timing of rockfall activity. We use high-resolution, monthly terrestri...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
2,592 Views
35 Pages

Past and Future Storm-Driven Changes to a Dynamic Sandy Barrier System: Outer Cape Cod, Massachusetts

  • Daniel J. Harrington,
  • John P. Walsh,
  • Annette R. Grilli,
  • Isaac Ginis,
  • Deborah Crowley,
  • Stephan T. Grilli,
  • Christopher Damon,
  • Roland Duhaime,
  • Peter Stempel and
  • Pam Rubinoff

16 January 2025

Sandy barrier systems are highly dynamic, with the most significant natural morphological changes to these systems occurring during high-energy storm conditions. These systems provide a range of economic and ecosystem benefits and protect inland area...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1,238 Views
30 Pages

15 December 2025

This study investigates the morphodynamic evolution of an embayed cobble beach located on a mesotidal cliff coast in northern Spain. La Maruca/Pinquel beach was selected for its distinctive geomorphological setting, perched on a well-sorted cobble su...

  • Article
  • Open Access
43 Citations
9,185 Views
31 Pages

Coastal Flood Assessment Based on Field Debris Measurements and Wave Runup Empirical Model

  • David Didier,
  • Pascal Bernatchez,
  • Geneviève Boucher-Brossard,
  • Adrien Lambert,
  • Christian Fraser,
  • Robert L. Barnett and
  • Stefanie Van-Wierts

15 July 2015

On 6 December 2010, an extra-tropical storm reached Atlantic Canada, causing coastal flooding due to high water levels being driven toward the north shore of Chaleur Bay. The extent of flooding was identified in the field along the coastline at Maria...

  • Article
  • Open Access
16 Citations
7,633 Views
38 Pages

Shoreline Change from Optical and Sar Satellite Imagery at Macro-Tidal Estuarine, Cliffed Open-Coast and Gravel Pocket-Beach Environments

  • Maria Victoria Paz-Delgado,
  • Andrés Payo,
  • Alejandro Gómez-Pazo,
  • Anne-Laure Beck and
  • Salvatore Savastano

Coasts are continually changing and remote sensing from satellite has the potential to both map and monitor coastal change at multiple scales. This study aims to assess the application of shorelines extracted from Multi-Spectral Imagery (MSI) and Syn...

  • Article
  • Open Access
5 Citations
4,512 Views
21 Pages

16 September 2020

The petrographic composition and grain shape variability of beach gravels in the Pogorzelica–Dziwnów coast section (363.0 to 391.4 km of coastline), southern Baltic Sea, Poland were analyzed herein to characterize the lithodynamics and t...

  • Article
  • Open Access
4 Citations
4,783 Views
19 Pages

Influence of the Spatial Pressure Distribution of Breaking Wave Loading on the Dynamic Response of Wolf Rock Lighthouse

  • Darshana T. Dassanayake,
  • Alessandro Antonini,
  • Athanasios Pappas,
  • Alison Raby,
  • James Mark William Brownjohn and
  • Dina D’Ayala

The survivability analysis of offshore rock lighthouses requires several assumptions of the pressure distribution due to the breaking wave loading (Raby et al. (2019), Antonini et al. (2019). Due to the peculiar bathymetries and topographies of rock...

  • Article
  • Open Access
3 Citations
2,680 Views
29 Pages

Application of Geomatic Techniques for the Assessment of Anthropogenic Changes in the Urban Beaches of “La Magdalena” (Santander, Spain)

  • Germán Flor,
  • Manuel Sánchez-Fernández,
  • Germán Flor-Blanco and
  • José Juan de Sanjosé Blasco

1 January 2023

Since the 1970s, dredging sands have been poured onto the embayed beaches of La Magdalena in the western mouth of the estuarine Bay of Santander (N Spain) in order to increase beach width. Up until the year 2000, the sands were systematically fed by...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
26 Citations
4,494 Views
17 Pages

Spatial Variability of Beach Impact from Post-Tropical Cyclone Katia (2011) on Northern Ireland’s North Coast

  • Giorgio Anfuso,
  • Carlos Loureiro,
  • Mohammed Taaouati,
  • Thomas Smyth and
  • Derek Jackson

13 May 2020

In northern Europe, beach erosion, coastal flooding and associated damages to engineering structures are linked to mid-latitude storms that form through cyclogenesis and post-tropical cyclones, when a tropical cyclone moves north from its tropical or...

  • Article
  • Open Access
12 Citations
7,960 Views
25 Pages

Coastal management often relies on large-scale flood mapping to produce sea level rise assessments where the storm-related surge is considered as the most important hazard. Nearshore dynamics and overland flow are also key parameters in coastal flood...

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