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47 Results Found

  • Article
  • Open Access
5 Citations
4,505 Views
21 Pages

16 September 2020

The petrographic composition and grain shape variability of beach gravels in the Pogorzelica–Dziwnów coast section (363.0 to 391.4 km of coastline), southern Baltic Sea, Poland were analyzed herein to characterize the lithodynamics and t...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
652 Views
21 Pages

Storm-Induced Evolution on an Artificial Pocket Gravel Beach: A Numerical Study with XBeach-Gravel

  • Hanna Miličević,
  • Dalibor Carević,
  • Damjan Bujak,
  • Goran Lončar and
  • Andrea Tadić

Coarse-grained beaches consisting of gravel, pebbles, and cobbles play a crucial role in coastal protection. On the Croatian Adriatic coast, there are artificial gravel pocket beaches created for recreational and protective purposes. However, these b...

  • Article
  • Open Access
4 Citations
3,128 Views
17 Pages

The Making of a Gravel Beach (Cavo, Elba Island, Italy)

  • Irene Cinelli,
  • Giorgio Anfuso,
  • Enrico Bartoletti,
  • Lorenzo Rossi and
  • Enzo Pranzini

19 October 2021

This paper presents the history and evolution of the different projects carried out from 1999 to 2008 at Cavo beach in the Elba Island, Italy. The village of Cavo almost completely lost its beach in the 1970s due to the reduction of sedimentary input...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
16 Citations
5,230 Views
20 Pages

Gravel Barrier Beach Morphodynamic Response to Extreme Conditions

  • Kristian Ions,
  • Harshinie Karunarathna,
  • Dominic E. Reeve and
  • Douglas Pender

Gravel beaches and barriers form a valuable natural protection for many shorelines. The paper presents a numerical modelling study of gravel barrier beach response to storm wave conditions. The XBeach non-hydrostatic model was set up in 1D mode to in...

  • Article
  • Open Access
11 Citations
4,825 Views
23 Pages

Most empirical equations used for wave runup predictions have been developed from measurements at straight sandy beaches in unlimited fetch environments. While there are empirical equations to predict wave runup on gravel beaches, they have not been...

  • Article
  • Open Access
4 Citations
3,435 Views
24 Pages

Measuring Organization of Large Surficial Clasts in Heterogeneous Gravel Beach Sediments

  • Dennis C. Lees,
  • Christopher J. Hein and
  • Duncan M. FitzGerald

The natural stratification and interlocking “organization” of armored sediments in heterogeneous, coarse-grained, beaches provides protection and enhances habitat for borrowing sedentary megafauna and macrofauna such as hard-shelled clams. Here, we d...

  • Article
  • Open Access
12 Citations
3,607 Views
24 Pages

Post-Nourishment Changes of an Artificial Gravel Pocket Beach Using UAV Imagery

  • Andrea Tadić,
  • Igor Ružić,
  • Nino Krvavica and
  • Suzana Ilić

Monitoring and analysis of changes in the volume and area of nourished beaches is crucial to inform any beach renourishment programme. The aim of this study is to utilise UAV surveys and SfM photogrammetry to assess the beach nourishment performance...

  • Article
  • Open Access
3 Citations
4,316 Views
17 Pages

Coastal Sediment Grain Size Estimates on Gravel Beaches Using Satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR)

  • Sophie Mann,
  • Alessandro Novellino,
  • Ekbal Hussain,
  • Stephen Grebby,
  • Luke Bateson,
  • Austin Capsey and
  • Stuart Marsh

16 May 2024

Coastal sediment grain size is an important factor in determining coastal morphodynamics. In this study, we explore a novel approach for retrieving the median sediment grain size (D50) of gravel-dominated beaches using Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR)...

  • Article
  • Open Access
20 Citations
5,160 Views
21 Pages

Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditio...

  • Article
  • Open Access
4 Citations
2,918 Views
21 Pages

Application of the XBeach-Gravel Model for the Case of East Adriatic Sea-Wave Conditions

  • Tonko Bogovac,
  • Dalibor Carević,
  • Damjan Bujak and
  • Hanna Miličević

Croatia’s coast located on the eastern Adriatic is rich with small gravel beaches with limited fetch. This leads to a specific low-energetic wave climate compared to most other beaches, while their gravel composition makes them unique. Most man...

  • Article
  • Open Access
636 Views
34 Pages

Recent Developments in Cross-Shore Coastal Profile Modeling

  • L. C. van Rijn,
  • K. Dumont and
  • B. Malherbe

20 October 2025

Coastal profile models are frequently used for the computation of storm-induced erosion at (nourished) beaches. Attention is focused on new developments and new validation exercises for the detailed process-based CROSMOR-model for the computation of...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1,509 Views
23 Pages

Several small- and medium-sized rivers connecting to the Shichiri-Mihama coast are closed due to debris. The progression of river mouth closures increases the risk of flooding in the watershed, so countermeasures are necessary. In this study, piles w...

  • Article
  • Open Access
2 Citations
3,240 Views
12 Pages

High Pressure Injection of Chemicals in a Gravel Beach

  • Xiaolong Geng,
  • Ali Abdollahi-Nasab,
  • Chunjiang An,
  • Zhi Chen,
  • Kenneth Lee and
  • Michel C. Boufadel

8 August 2019

The remediation of beaches contaminated with oil includes the application of surfactants and/or the application of amendments to enhance oil biodegradation (i.e., bioremediation). This study focused on evaluating the practicability of the high pressu...

  • Article
  • Open Access
6 Citations
4,318 Views
19 Pages

14 December 2018

Characterising spatial and temporal variations in coastal behaviour is essential for the management of beach systems. Recent studies have shown that beach response is more complex in coasts subjected to bimodal wave directions. Despite being pervasiv...

  • Article
  • Open Access
5 Citations
2,964 Views
23 Pages

On mixed sand–gravel beaches, impacts from gravel- and cobble-sized grains—mobilized by the energetic shorebreak—limit the utility of in situ instrumentation for measuring the small-scale response of the beach face on wave period time scales. We pres...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
3,864 Views
17 Pages

1 November 2021

Dungeness is a cuspate foreland on the south coast of England that is the largest shingle feature in Europe and includes hundreds of beach ridges. It is also the location of two nuclear power stations that were constructed in the 1960s. The dominant...

  • Article
  • Open Access
16 Citations
7,612 Views
38 Pages

Shoreline Change from Optical and Sar Satellite Imagery at Macro-Tidal Estuarine, Cliffed Open-Coast and Gravel Pocket-Beach Environments

  • Maria Victoria Paz-Delgado,
  • Andrés Payo,
  • Alejandro Gómez-Pazo,
  • Anne-Laure Beck and
  • Salvatore Savastano

Coasts are continually changing and remote sensing from satellite has the potential to both map and monitor coastal change at multiple scales. This study aims to assess the application of shorelines extracted from Multi-Spectral Imagery (MSI) and Syn...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
2,762 Views
10 Pages

The Taming of Smeagol? A New Population and an Assessment of the Known Population of the Critically Endangered Pulmonate Gastropod Smeagol hilaris (Heterobranchia, Otinidae)

  • Matt J. Nimbs,
  • Tom R. Davis,
  • Sebastian P. Holmes,
  • Lachlan Hill,
  • Samara Wehmeyer,
  • Amanda Prior and
  • Jane E. Williamson

9 January 2023

The genus Smeagol consists of five named species of air-breathing marine slugs (restricted to southern Australia and New Zealand) and three undescribed taxa from southern Japan. Only one species, S. hilaris, is known to be from New South Wales (NSW),...

  • Article
  • Open Access
18 Citations
3,921 Views
24 Pages

31 March 2022

Advances in image-based remote sensing using unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV) and structure-from-motion (SfM) photogrammetry continue to improve our ability to monitor complex landforms over representative spatial and temporal scales. As with other wat...

  • Article
  • Open Access
11 Citations
5,010 Views
22 Pages

Nature-Based Coastal Protection by Large Woody Debris as Compared to Seawalls: A Physical Model Study of Beach Morphology and Wave Reflection

  • Pauline Falkenrich,
  • Jessica Wilson,
  • Ioan Nistor,
  • Nils Goseberg,
  • Andrew Cornett and
  • Abdolmajid Mohammadian

23 July 2021

Anchored Large Woody Debris (LWD) is increasingly being used as one of several nature-based coastal protection strategies along the north-western coasts of Canada and the US. As an alternative to conventional hard armoring (e.g., seawalls), its usage...

  • Article
  • Open Access
15 Citations
4,001 Views
19 Pages

When erosion occurs, sand beaches cannot maintain sufficient sand width, foreshore slopes become steeper due to frequent erosion effects, and beaches are trapped in a vicious cycle of vulnerability due to incident waves. Accordingly, beach nourishmen...

  • Article
  • Open Access
13 Citations
2,825 Views
20 Pages

Shoreline Response to Wave Forcing and Sea Level Rise along a Geomorphological Complex Coastline (Western Sardinia, Mediterranean Sea)

  • Simone Simeone,
  • Luca Palombo,
  • Emanuela Molinaroli,
  • Walter Brambilla,
  • Alessandro Conforti and
  • Giovanni De Falco

28 April 2021

Beaches responses to storms, as well as their potential adaptation to the foreseeable sea level rise (SLR), were investigated along three beaches in a coastal tract in western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea). The grain size of the sediments, the...

  • Article
  • Open Access
3,116 Views
20 Pages

Compatibility between Continental Shelf Deposits and Sediments of Adjacent Beaches along Western Sardinia (Mediterranean Sea)

  • Giovanni De Falco,
  • Simone Simeone,
  • Alessandro Conforti,
  • Walter Brambilla and
  • Emanuela Molinaroli

6 December 2022

The compatibility of sediments in terms of grain size, composition and colour among beaches and strategic sediment deposits (SSD) along Western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea) were assessed to explore management strategy in the protection and ad...

  • Article
  • Open Access
9 Citations
4,136 Views
22 Pages

12 November 2020

This paper provides a sensitivity analysis around how characterizing sandy, intertidal foreshore evolution in XBeach-X impacts on wave runup and morphological change of a vulnerable, composite gravel beach. The study is motivated by a need for confid...

  • Article
  • Open Access
21 Citations
5,177 Views
12 Pages

Sea defences, such as urban seawalls can fail due to the development of a scour hole at the toe of the structure. The scour depth or the information on ground levels at the structure toe is required for the sustainable management of coastal defences,...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
2,671 Views
20 Pages

Pliocene (?)—early Pleistocene shallow marine deposits, varying from gravel to sand to clay, characterize the southernmost sector of the Valdichiana Basin, between Orte and Città della Pieve, across Tuscany, Umbria and Latium (Central It...

  • Article
  • Open Access
1 Citations
377 Views
17 Pages

Airflow Dynamics, Sediment Transport, and Morphological Change on a Low-Relief Dune Under Offshore Wind Forcing

  • Camille René,
  • Nicolas Robin,
  • Thomas Roubio,
  • Antoine Lamy and
  • Tristan Dell’Oste

24 November 2025

Dunes are key geomorphological features controlling airflow and sediment transport. While these processes are well documented under onshore conditions, this study provides the first high-resolution spatial analysis of dune-beach dynamics under offsho...

  • Article
  • Open Access
10 Citations
3,287 Views
14 Pages

Application of Artificial Neural Networks to Predict Beach Nourishment Volume Requirements

  • Damjan Bujak,
  • Tonko Bogovac,
  • Dalibor Carević,
  • Suzana Ilic and
  • Goran Lončar

The volume of material required for the construction of new and expansion of existing beach sites is an important parameter for coastal management. This information may play a crucial role when deciding which beach sites to develop. This work examine...

  • Proceeding Paper
  • Open Access
2 Citations
2,578 Views
10 Pages

Selection of Appropriate Coastal Protection Structure Using AHP Method

  • Barbara Karleuša,
  • Nino Krvavica and
  • Igor Ružić

The selection of an appropriate coastal protection structure using multi-criteria analysis method AHP (analytic hierarchy process) was presented by a case study of a beach reconstruction in the Kostanj Bay (north-western part of Croatia). The newly d...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
3,847 Views
25 Pages

20 March 2020

Beach ridges constructed by pluvial Lake Clover in Elko County, Nevada during the Late Pleistocene were investigated with ground-penetrating radar (GPR). The primary objective was to document the internal architecture of these shorelines and to evalu...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
28 Citations
4,559 Views
17 Pages

Prediction of Shoreline Evolution. Reliability of a General Model for the Mixed Beach Case

  • Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio,
  • Antonio Francone,
  • David J. Simmonds,
  • Felice D’Alessandro and
  • Ferdinando Frega

In the present paper, after a sensitivity analysis, the calibration and verification of a novel morphodynamic model have been conducted based on a high-quality field experiment data base. The morphodynamic model includes a general formula to predict...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
14 Citations
9,463 Views
32 Pages

A Quantitative Assessment of the Annual Contribution of Platform Downwearing to Beach Sediment Budget: Happisburgh, England, UK

  • Andres Payo,
  • Mike Walkden,
  • Michael A. Ellis,
  • Andrew Barkwith,
  • David Favis-Mortlock,
  • Holger Kessler,
  • Benjamin Wood,
  • Helen Burke and
  • Jonathan Lee

Field and numerical investigations at Happisburgh, East coast of England, UK, sought to characterize beach thickness and determine geologic framework controls on coastal change. After a major failure of coastal protection infrastructure, removal of a...

  • Article
  • Open Access
8 Citations
4,398 Views
14 Pages

Accuracy Analysis of Measuring X-Y-Z Coordinates with Regard to the Investigation of the Tombolo Effect

  • Romuald Masnicki,
  • Cezary Specht,
  • Janusz Mindykowski,
  • Paweł Dąbrowski and
  • Mariusz Specht

20 February 2020

Tombolo is a narrow belt connecting the mainland with an island lying near the shore. It is formed as a result of sand and gravel being deposited by sea currents. In consequence, the seabed constantly rises and the shoreline moves towards the sea. Th...

  • Article
  • Open Access
2 Citations
2,493 Views
22 Pages

25 October 2022

The modern drainage systems of the fold and thrust belt of the external Hellenide orogen of NW Greece are principally orogen-parallel. Late Quaternary changes in river courses have resulted from neotectonic deformation associated with the Katouna&nda...

  • Article
  • Open Access
13 Citations
4,637 Views
21 Pages

5 November 2022

The Triassic Jiucaiyuan Formation is a vital oil and gas exploration target in the eastern part of the Junggar Basin. In this work, cores, thin sections, particle sizes, and conventional physical properties were analyzed in order to understand the se...

  • Article
  • Open Access
14 Citations
5,082 Views
21 Pages

Morphometric Characteristics, Shapes and Provenance of Holocene Pebbles from the Sava River Gravels (Zagreb, Croatia)

  • Uroš Barudžija,
  • Josipa Velić,
  • Tomislav Malvić,
  • Neven Trenc and
  • Nikolina Matovinović Božinović

Morphometric analysis of Holocene pebbles from Sava River gravel in NW Croatia revealed shape distributions as observed along a 30 km long watercourse. Limestones, dolomites, and sandstones were identified as the major (>4%) and effusive magmatics...

  • Article
  • Open Access
3 Citations
6,349 Views
23 Pages

27 September 2022

Satellite earth observation data has become fundamental in efforts to map coastal change at large geographic scales. Research has generally focussed on extracting the instantaneous waterline position from time-series of satellite images to interpret...

  • Article
  • Open Access
10 Citations
3,915 Views
22 Pages

Anthropogenic Impact on Beach Heterogeneity within a Littoral Cell (Northern Tuscany, Italy)

  • Duccio Bertoni,
  • Monica Bini,
  • Marco Luppichini,
  • Luigi Enrico Cipriani,
  • Andrea Carli and
  • Giovanni Sarti

In this paper the evolution of the Northern Tuscany littoral cell is documented through a detailed analysis of the increasing anthropogenic pressure since the beginning of the 20th century. This sector of the Tuscany coast has been experiencing stron...

  • Article
  • Open Access
6 Citations
3,561 Views
27 Pages

10 June 2023

Several coastal barriers experienced significant erosion and change in shape throughout the Mediterranean coasts over the past decades, and the issue has become of increasing concern for scientists and policymakers. With reference to a case study and...

  • Article
  • Open Access
52 Citations
15,157 Views
17 Pages

Use of Naturally Available Reference Targets to Calibrate Airborne Laser Scanning Intensity Data

  • Ants Vain,
  • Sanna Kaasalainen,
  • Ulla Pyysalo,
  • Anssi Krooks and
  • Paula Litkey

20 April 2009

We have studied the possibility of calibrating airborne laser scanning (ALS) intensity data, using land targets typically available in urban areas. For this purpose, a test area around Espoonlahti Harbor, Espoo, Finland, for which a long time series...

  • Feature Paper
  • Article
  • Open Access
6 Citations
4,444 Views
18 Pages

A Top-to-Bottom Luminescence-Based Chronology for the Post-LGM Regression of a Great Basin Pluvial Lake

  • Jeffrey S. Munroe,
  • Caleb K. Walcott,
  • William H. Amidon and
  • Joshua D. Landis

16 April 2020

We applied luminescence dating to a suite of shorelines constructed by pluvial Lake Clover in northeastern Nevada, USA during the last glacial cycle. At its maximum extent, the lake covered 740 km2 with a mean depth of 16 m and a water volume of 13 k...

  • Article
  • Open Access
42 Citations
5,003 Views
16 Pages

The human impact on the ecosystem has been particularly evident in the last century; it transforms the Earth’s surface on an unprecedented scale and brings about irreversible changes. One example is an oceanographic phenomenon known as a tombol...

  • Article
  • Open Access
3 Citations
2,171 Views
12 Pages

24 October 2022

For the first time, an assessment of phenotypic variability and genetic polymorphism was performed on endemic plants Scutellaria tuvensis Juz. growing in Tuva (five populations; Russia). Based on morphological traits of individuals, principal compone...

  • Article
  • Open Access
13 Citations
8,075 Views
35 Pages

Assessment of Shoreline Change from SAR Satellite Imagery in Three Tidally Controlled Coastal Environments

  • Salvatore Savastano,
  • Paula Gomes da Silva,
  • Jara Martínez Sánchez,
  • Arnau Garcia Tort,
  • Andres Payo,
  • Mark E. Pattle,
  • Albert Garcia-Mondéjar,
  • Yeray Castillo and
  • Xavier Monteys

Coasts are continually changing and remote sensing from satellites has the potential to both map and monitor coastal change at multiple scales. Unlike optical technology, synthetic aperture radar (SAR) is uninfluenced by darkness, clouds, and rain, p...

  • Article
  • Open Access
36 Citations
5,992 Views
18 Pages

Geospatial Modeling of the Tombolo Phenomenon in Sopot using Integrated Geodetic and Hydrographic Measurement Methods

  • Mariusz Specht,
  • Cezary Specht,
  • Janusz Mindykowski,
  • Paweł Dąbrowski,
  • Romuald Maśnicki and
  • Artur Makar

23 February 2020

A tombolo is a narrow belt connecting a mainland with an island lying near to the shore, formed as a result of sand and gravel being deposited by sea currents, most often created as a result of natural phenomena. However, it can also be caused by hum...

  • Article
  • Open Access
15 Citations
3,398 Views
22 Pages

Remote Sensing and Field Survey Data Integration to Investigate on the Evolution of the Coastal Area: The Case Study of Bagnara Calabra (Southern Italy)

  • Ines Alberico,
  • Daniele Casalbore,
  • Nicola Pelosi,
  • Renato Tonielli,
  • Claudia Calidonna,
  • Rocco Dominici and
  • Rosanna De Rosa

20 May 2022

Coastal areas worldwide are the result of a weak balance between man and the natural environment. They are exposed to strong anthropogenic pressure and natural hazard events whose intensity has increased in recent decades. In this frame, the satellit...

  • Article
  • Open Access
7 Citations
3,358 Views
17 Pages

Absolute Localization of Targets Using a Phase-Measuring Sidescan Sonar in Very Shallow Waters

  • Mark Borrelli,
  • Bryan Legare,
  • Bryan McCormack,
  • Pedro Paulo Guy Martins dos Santos and
  • Daniel Solazzo

17 March 2023

The detection, classification, and localization of targets or features on the seafloor in acoustic data are critical to many disciplines. This is most important in cases where human safety is in jeopardy, such as hazards to navigation, mitigation of...