Cosmetics, Volume 10, Issue 1 (February 2023) – 37 articles

This study aimed to determine the incidence of dentinal microcracks after instrumenting the root canals of maxillary premolars using two novel rotary instrumentation systems. Micro-computed tomography (microCT) scans and images generated by sectioning and observation with a stereomicroscope were used to assess the specimens. Twenty-two freshly extracted maxillary premolars were collected and the specimens were divided into two groups of eleven. The tested radicular shaping systems were XP-Endo shaper and TRUShape (i.e., single file). The specimens were scanned with microCT pre- and post-instrumentation, and the newly formed microcracks were detected. The post-instrumentation scans were also compared with images obtained by sectioning method and stereomicroscope inspection, comparing the incidence of microcracks in either microCT scans or images. The results identified an overall incidence of 0.49% of newly formed microcracks, with no statistically significant differences (p = 0.689) between the shaping systems (0.11% for TRUShape and 0.87% for XP-Endo shaper). There were statistically significant differences (p < 0.001) between the microcracks incidence in microCT scans and the sectioning method (16.6% more for the latter). In conclusion, the results show that neither TRUShape nor XP-Endo shaper created dentinal microcracks during root canal instrumentation. The sectioning method with stereomicroscope evaluation overestimates the presence of microcracks with a statistically significant difference compared to microCT scans. Full article

The aim of this study was to develop a topically applied formulation with the potential to alleviate arthritis ailments. A combination of two active ingredients, icariin from Epimedium L. (Species: Epimedium Koreanum) extract as a potential promoter of chondrogenesis and glucosamine sulfate as a precursor of cartilage tissues, was tested. In permeation studies, the potential for skin permeation of both substances was confirmed; however, the in vitro release test did not accurately reflect the degree of skin permeation. The in vitro release of icariin was at a level of 15.0–19.0% for the plant-extract-derived icariin and 29.0–35.0% for the pure substance. The level of glucosamine sulfate release was 38.4% (on average). For icariin of both origins, the release results were higher than those obtained via oral administration (about 12.0%), which shows the potential superiority of topical application. In addition, the physicochemical parameters that affect the in vitro release and performance of topical formulations were addressed. This preliminary research and permeation analysis of the formulation produced a promising picture of its prospects regarding arthritis treatment, although further investigation is needed. Full article

The cosmetic industry is continuously searching for new active ingredients in an effort to attend to consumer demands which, in recent years, are focused on more natural and environmentally friendly products, obtained from sustainable resources. Nevertheless, they are required to provide cosmetologically appealing skincare products, ultimately with the purpose of improving skin appearance. The olive oil industry generates a large amount of liquid and semi-solid by-products such as olive pomace. Their phytotoxicity impairs safe disposal, so valorization strategies that promote by-product reuse are needed, which may include skincare products. Hydroxytyrosol is the main phenolic compound present in olive pomace and possesses biological effects that make it a desirable active compound for cosmetic formulations such as antioxidant and anti-aging activities as well as photoprotector, depigmenting, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory actions. Other compounds present in olive pomace can also have functional properties and skin-related benefits. However, the application of this by-product can be a challenge in terms of formulation’s design, stability, and proven efficacy, so appropriate methodologies should be used to validate its incorporation and may include extraction and further encapsulation of bioactive compounds in order to achieve effective and aesthetic appealing skincare products. Full article

One of the most important characteristics of aging skin is dehydration, which is why the use of moisturizing products is very important, especially with increasing age. Thus, the user’s experience when using a product is interesting for the companies to develop specific cosmetics not only considering the physiological needs of each skin, but also according to the preference of a group if there is any. For this, a moisturizer was developed, containing an antioxidant active, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, whose sensory characteristics were evaluated by 33 Brazilian women between 30 and 60 years old. The results showed that the formulation was well accepted by all subjects, regardless of their age group, initial hydration, or the presence of visible signs of skin aging. It is suggested that the presence of the active ingredient in different concentrations caused a different perception of the formula for specific attributes such as the aqueous residue, film formation, and the feelings of oiliness and stickiness to the skin after application. These results suggest that the perception of the sensory characteristics of the product was more related to the nature and proportion of the compounds than to the age of the subjects. Full article

Apart from well-known respiratory symptoms, less frequent symptoms also appear as a direct result of COVID-19 infection, or as indirect effects of the recommended quarantine and related lifestyle changes. The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on human skin is predominantly focused on in this article. Cutaneous manifestations, including redness, chilblain-like symptoms (COVID toes), hives or urticaria rash, water blisters, and fishing net-like red-blue patterns on the skin, may appear as accompanying or as systemic COVID-19 symptoms with potential lesions at different skin sites. These symptoms were related to skin phototypes and vitamin D deficiency. Moreover, Black, Asian, and minority ethnic origin patients are found to be more sensitive to COVID-19 infection than Caucasians because of vitamin D deficiency. The region of population with lighter skin phototypes have a significantly higher chance to develop cutaneous manifestations than population with dark skin. In addition, adverse effects, such as skin barrier damage and irritation, may also occur due to extensive personal protective equipment usage (e.g., masks, protective suits, and a few others) and predominately alcohol-based sanitizers. This manuscript covers various aspects of COVID-19 and its clinical skin manifestations. Full article

The aim of this study is to develop new analysis techniques for skin capacitive image stitching and occlusion measurements. Through image stitching, small skin capacitive images can be stitched into large skin capacitive images and, therefore, provide more skin image information. Through occlusion, e.g., keeping the measurement device on skin for a period of time, the skin health status can be studied through time-dependent response curves. Results show that time-dependent skin capacitive imaging curves can tell us the information about transdermal water loss (TEWL) as well as skin surface profiles. By using the structural similarity index measure (SSIM), the TEWL map can be constructed, which shows the water loss map on the skin surface. We first present the theoretical background and then the experimental results. Full article

Skin rejuvenation procedures such as microneedling and laser resurfacing have gained global popularity in medical cosmetology, leading to acute skin wounds with persistent pain, erythema, and edema. A variety of dressings have been explored to repair these postoperative skin injuries; however, their inadequate biocompatibility and bioactivity may raise concerns about undesirable efficacy and complications. Herein, we developed biocompatible and nonirritating triple-helical recombinant collagen (THRC) dressings for accelerated healing of microneedle-injured and photodamaged acute skin wounds. Circular dichroism (CD) measurements of THRC from various batches exhibited triple-helical structure characteristics of collagen. Cell experiments using L929 fibroblasts revealed that THRC dressings possess superior biocompatibility and bioactivity, significantly elevating the proliferation and adhesion of fibroblasts. In vivo, skin irritation tests of New Zealand rabbits demonstrated that the THRC dressings are gentle, safe, and non-irritating. Histological analysis of the animal model studies in photodamaged skin wounds using H&E and Masson’s trichrome staining revealed that 4 days of treatment with the THRC dressings effectively healed the damaged dermis by accelerating re-epithelialization and enhancing collagen deposition. In vivo studies of microneedle-injured rat defects showed that THRC dressings of varying concentrations exhibit the same rapid epithelialization rates at 48 h as commercial bovine collagen dressings. The highly biocompatible and bioactive recombinant collagen dressings may provide an advanced treatment of acute skin wounds, indicating attractive applications in postoperative care of facial rejuvenation. Full article

Nostoc verrucosum, an edible microalgal species, forms colonies in streams. Here, we investigated the antimelanogenic and anti-oxidative effects of N. verrucosum extracts. We collected N. verrucosum from Toyama Prefecture, Japan, and successfully cultured it in indoor cultivation systems. Aqueous, methanol, and hexane extracts of N. verrucosum were prepared for various experiments. To elucidate the antimelanogenic effects of N. verrucosum, we performed tyrosinase assay, melanin content assay, western blotting, and real-time quantitative reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR). Anti-oxidative effects were evaluated using the 2,2’-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) assay. The methanol and hexane extracts significantly inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F1 melanoma cells. Western blotting showed that 12.5 and 25.0 µg/mL N. verrucosum hexane extract suppressed tyrosinase activity. The qRT-PCR analysis revealed that N. verrucosum hexane extract inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-enhanced tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) mRNA expression. On the contrary, N. verrucosum hexane extract did not alter microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) transcription. The ABTS assay showed that all extracts had radical scavenging activities, and the IC₅₀ values of the aqueous and methanol extracts were 294.6 and 172.8 µg/mL, respectively. Our findings demonstrate that N. verrucosum is a suitable candidate for the development of antimelanogenic agents, cosmetics, or functional food ingredients. Full article

Preparations of the Cymbopogon citratus leaves are used in folk medicine for the treatment of inflammatory processes. The present study investigated the proposed anti-inflammatory properties of C. citratus essential oil (EOCC) in human skin in vivo using the methylnicotinate (MN) microinflammation skin model. Skin exposure to MN causes a disturbance that triggers the production of reactive oxygen species and evokes a short duration microinflammatory reaction that might be explored to meet this objective. Fourteen participants of both sexes were selected after providing informed consent. Three areas (3 cm × 3 cm) were drawn on both forearms. One randomly chosen area was treated for 14 days, twice a day, with a polyacrylic acid gel containing 5% EOCC. Remaining areas were used as controls. Results revealed a clear protective effect at the EOCC-treated site. The MN reaction showed significantly lower transepidermal water loss, blood perfusion, erythema, and edema when compared with the other areas. Furthermore, the methodology here proposed is an innovative approach to study the clinical impact of these substances on human skin, contributing to an evidence-based support regarding the interest of using these products in human health. Full article

Several plants have been processed in Lesotho to manufacture various commercial prodcts, ranging from cosmetics and beverages (juice, tea) to traditional herbal mixtures and crafts. Even though plants of commercial importance have been documented in different regions and countries, this is not the case in Lesotho. Therefore, the aim of the study is to record plant species commonly used in the country for development of commercial products. A physical survey was undertaken in different places in the Maseru District of Lesotho between January 2019 and October 2021, taking a record of existing commercial products and identifying plants used in their development. A total of 15 plants of commercial importance in the country are recorded in the current study, namely Agave americana, Aloe ferox, Artemisia afra, Cannabis sativa, Helichrysum odoratissimum, Hemannia depressa, Hypoxis hemerocallidea, Leudeboria cooperi, Mentha spp., Merxmuellera spp., Pelargonium sidoides, Opuntia ficus-indica, Rosa rubiginosa and Urtica urens. Most of the plants are used for production of commercial products in the country, whereas some are exported as raw materials, mainly to countries such as Germany, South Africa, Australia and America. The latter are C. sativa, Merxmuellera spp., P. sidoides and R. rubiginosa. Profiling of the plants provides important information about their commercial potential. However, conservation of the plants is encouraged to ensure their sustainable utilisation. Full article

Background: Thermal waters have been showing different beneficial effects on the skin due to their physicochemical composition. The beneficial effect of thermal water in the treatment of some skin diseases may thus justify its use as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objective of this work was to demonstrate the potential of incorporating thermal water as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. (2) Methods: A descriptive literature review was carried out by the analysis of scientific articles in PubMed and Google Scholar databases. Twelve thermal spring waters were found (Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, Cró, Dead Sea, La Roche-Posay, Monfortinho, Saint-Gervais, Salies-de-Béarn, São Pedro do Sul, Uriage and Vichy) with potential as an active in cosmetic products, demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies. (3) Results: For these studies, in natura thermal water as well as incorporated in cosmetic formulations were used. In in vitro studies, most thermal waters have been shown to have activities on membrane fluidity, skin barrier repair, antiradical, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, proliferative activity, regulation of processes involved in ageing and moisturizing properties. In clinical trials, cosmetic thermal waters reduced skin discomfort through their soothing and exhibited moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. (4) Conclusions: The effect of thermal waters on the skin and the absence of side effects reported in different studies allows them to be used as an adjuvant or in the treatment of various skin disorders and may play an important role in the cosmetics industry. However, further clinical trials are needed to assess their effectiveness and safety. Full article

Microencapsulation methods for active substances, such as fragrance compounds and aromas, have long been of interest to researchers. Fragrance compositions and aromas are added to cosmetics, household, and food products. This is often because the choice of a particular product is dictated by its fragrance. Fragrance compositions and aromas are, therefore, a very important part of the composition of these items. During production, when a fragrance composition or aroma is introduced into a system, unfavorable conditions often exist. High temperatures and strong mixing have a detrimental effect on some fragrance compounds. The environments of selected products, such as high- or low-pH surfactants, all affect the fragrance, often destructively. The simple storage of fragrances where they are exposed to light, oxygen, or heat also has an adverse effect. The solution to most of these problems may be the encapsulation process, namely surrounding small fragrance droplets with an inert coating that protects them from the external environment, whether during storage, transport or application, until they are in the right conditions to release the fragrance. The aim of this article was to present the possible, available and most commonly used methods for obtaining encapsulated fragrances and aromas, which can then be used in various industries. In addition, the advantages and disadvantages of each method were pointed out, so that the selection of the appropriate technology for the production of encapsulated fragrances and aromas will be simpler. Full article

Melasma is a challenging chronic skin condition associated with hyperpigmentation and unknown aetiology. This scoping review maps evidence of available treatments and their effectiveness in darker skin types. A comprehensive, systematic online search was conducted in Scopus, PubMed, CINAHL Complete, Cochrane, ScienceDirect, and Web of Science Core Collection. All eligible titles were exported to an EndNote20 library (Clarivate analytics, US). Thematic content analysis was performed to summarise data on current melasma treatments for darker skin types. The quality of included articles was appraised using the Mixed Methods Appraisal Tool (MMAT) 2018 version. A total of 2863 articles were retrieved from the databases, and 10 met the eligibility criteria following abstract and full-text screening. Our findings demonstrate that topical treatments, chemical peels, lasers, and tranexamic acid are common treatment modalities used in darker skin types. Although these treatments may be effective in the short term, they bring about undesirable side effects and sometimes worsen or result in reoccurrences of melasma. Based on the evidence mapped, current treatment modalities are not suitable for darker skin types. There are very few studies conducted on individuals of African descent. Further research is necessary to investigate treatment interventions that may be user-friendly when dealing with darker skin types. Full article

The objective of this work was to characterize a cosmeceutical formulation for the eye area with roasted coffee oil microcapsules (MOF) and evaluate the acceptance and effects of its use by consumers. MOF had 3% microcapsules produced by complex coacervation; a basic formulation (BF) was used for comparison. The addition of microcapsules did not affect the pH (4.52), density (0.99 g mL⁻¹), consistency (0.77 N s), and viscosity index (0.25 N s) of the formulation. However, a reduction in spreadability, firmness, and cohesiveness was observed. The 58 assessors received one kit with the formulations and a notebook with instructions to carry out the tests at home. They were instructed to apply the cream for 28 days and evaluate the attributes of application and treatment effects on 7-point category scales. The effect of oil addition observed in the physical tests was not sensorially perceived for spreadability and tackiness (6.0 and 5.6, respectively), indicating approval and easiness of application. The perception of the benefits (increase in smoothness, hydration, firmness, elasticity, and skin general appearance, and reduction in signs of fatigue and wrinkles/fine lines) was similar comparing MOF and BF. In conclusion, the coffee oil microcapsule is a viable ingredient for dermocosmetics with sensory acceptance. Full article

This study aimed to compare the intracanal lateral force and cutting efficiency associated with two engine-driven nickel-titanium (NiTi) systems during root canal shaping. Bovine single-rooted teeth models were assembled to a custom-made splitting force measuring platform while being endodontically treated with rotary (ProTaper Gold [PTG]) or reciprocal systems (WaveOne Gold [WOG]) by two clinicians. The cutting efficiency test was run for each group by a free-falling endomotor on dentin discs for 3 min. The resulting force, files, and stroke force peaks were recorded. Data were analyzed by the Shapiro-Wilk test and ANOVA. Statistical significance was set at alpha = 0.05. Intracanal lateral forces (p < 0.01), cutting efficiency (p < 0.01), and time efficiency (p < 0.01) were significantly different between the NiTi groups. The maximum lateral splitting force was detected using the PTG shaping full-length file (S1) and during the WOG final stroke. Thus, caution is advised when reciprocating single-file systems approach the apical third or when using a large taper and wide-diameter rotatory instruments. The WOG had significantly less maximum horizontal splitting force and significantly greater cutting efficiency but less time efficiency than the PTG system. Full article

Immediate pigment darkening, the first response of skin to solar exposure leading to undesired irregular pigmentation and dark spots, is the rapid onset of melanin pigmentation resulting from oxidation of the melanogenic indoles, namely 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) available in epidermal melanocytes. The search for effective sunscreen formulations is nowadays focused on UVA/B filters and additional ingredients that may scavenge the reactive oxygen species generated in these processes. In this work the effects of phenolic cosmetic ingredients (CIs), paradol-6, a ginger CO₂ extract, and phenylethyl resorcinol on photosensitized DHI and DHICA oxidation were investigated showing a decrease of their consumption and melanin formation (25–30% decrease with phenylethyl resorcinol). The photoprotective role of CIs was also evaluated in model systems. Paradol-6 and ginger CO₂ extract can halve linoleic acid peroxidation in the riboflavin-sensitized reaction, while dienes generation reduction (30% of control) was observed in the Rose-Bengal-sensitized photooxidation with paradol-6. The presence of DHI/DHICA melanin exerted a synergistic effect. The decay of thymine free or as a DNA base was almost completely inhibited by CIs. These results open new perspectives in the design of skin care formulations for ameliorating skin spots and contrasting ageing processes associated with sun exposure. Full article

Applying natural mineral water to skin care is a popular tendency and many cosmetics products based on thermal spring water have been developed. The special location and environmental conditions provide Dead Sea water (DSW) with unique ion composition and concentrations, which bring comprehensive positive effects on skin health. This article reviews two potential action modes of DSW, and the biological function of DSW and its related complex in dermatology and skin care. Previous studies have proved the functions of skin moisturization, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair, and anti-pollution. Especially, the anti-aging effect of DSW and related complexes can act in three different ways: keratinocyte rejuvenation, photo-protection, and cellular energy elevation. Additionally, the issues that need further investigation are also discussed. We hope that this review will help to improve the understanding of DSW and its related complex, and further contribute to product development in the skincare industry. Full article

The increase in urban society in the use of cosmetic practices to rejuvenate oneself or obtain a more appealing appearance has influenced the practices of cosmetic dermatologists, general medical practitioners, plastic surgeons, and dental practitioners, among others. The pharmaceutical industry has evolved to meet customers’ desire to be more physically attractive irrespectively of age and gender. This study aimed to preliminarily explore Jordanian adults’ awareness of dental, facial, and other cosmetic procedures. The reasons for undergoing such cosmetic procedures and self-reported knowledge of the side effects or risks associated with these interventions were also explored. The results show that the participants had undergone various procedures to enhance their looks, attractiveness, and confidence. None of the female participants wanted to emulate a celebrity. Most participants were aware of the side effects associated with cosmetic procedures, which may be attributed to their educational backgrounds, as the participants’ minimum qualification was 12th grade and their easy access to information services such as electronic media. A multicenter, large-scale, regional study is required to determine the associations, correlations, and recommendations for individuals seeking cosmetic treatment, cosmetic health providers, and policymakers. Full article

Phytoecdysteroids exert significant anti-inflammatory effects, which makes them valuable ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, data on their use in cosmetics are limited. Here, a new formulation with the extract of the Serratula coronata herb containing phytoecdysteroids was developed. The aim of this study was to perform physicochemical characteristics and evaluate the safety of the creams with S. coronata. Chromatography was used to detect the dominant phytoecdysteroids in the extract. The chemical and physical description of the creams was performed using the following parameters: viscosity, pH, and stability. The microbiological purity (pharmacopoeial methods) and transdermal permeability (Raman spectroscopy) were assessed to ensure the safety of the plant extracts used in the creams. The study confirmed the presence of phytoecdysteroid fractions of the S. coronata herb in the creams (20-hydroxyecdysone, polypodine B, and ajugasterone C). The results indicated that the cosmetics containing the S. coronata extract were chemically and microbiologically stable, thereby contributing to their safety. Their effectiveness is the result of transdermal permeability of 20-hydroxyecdysone. In this study, we demonstrated the importance of the S. coronata extract as a source of bioactive phytoecdysteroids and proved that the extract’s characteristics may make it the key ingredient of safe and stable skincare products that support the treatment of various inflammatory skin diseases. These results were a continuation of those presented in our earlier publication. Full article

The cashew tree (Anacardium occidentale L.) is a tropical plant found widely in many Southeast Asian countries, including Thailand, and contains bioactive phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. The natural antioxidants such as collagenase and tyrosinase inhibitors found in medicinal plants are promising agents in cosmetic products. This study evaluated the inhibitory activities of the collagenase and tyrosinase from cashew leaf extracts by developing and evaluating the stability of facial cream formulations. The ethanol (DEN), ethyl acetate (DEA) and distilled water (DDW) crude extracts of cashew leaves were investigated for their bioactive compound efficacy. The DDW extract had the highest yield (24.97%). All the extracts were investigated for their antioxidant activities. The DEN extract showed the highest DPPH radical-scavenging ability, ferric-reducing power and flavonoid compounds, which were 152.04 ± 2.40 mg gallic acid/g extract, 37.90 ± 1.07 mg gallic acid/g dry weight and 7.63 ± 0.07 mg quercetin/g dry weight, respectively. The DDW extract exhibited the highest potent activity, which was 111.00 ± 0.78 mg gallic acid/g dry weight in terms of phenolic content, while the DEN extract showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition at 0.100 mg/mL (46.97 ± 3.34%) and collagenase activity at 40 µg/mL. The results suggested that the ethanolic extracts from cashew leaves showed promise for use in skincare product development. Cosmeceutical formulations for skincare were prepared. The formula mixed with DEN extract and added to whitening and anti-aging skincare cream demonstrated good stability and physical properties. Full article

Plant polyphenols have been found to be effective in preventing or reducing different skin alterations. A dietary approach based on these compounds could be a safe and effective method to slow down or prevent age-associated deterioration of skin appearance and function. In a previous study, a specific combination of four botanical extracts (pomegranate, sweet orange, herba Cistanche, and Centella asiatica) exhibited potential anti-aging effects in a dermal fibroblast cell model. The present study aims to clinically evaluate the safety and anti-aging efficacy of this new botanical ingredient (eternalyoung^®). To this end, a 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was carried out in 60 Caucasian women with evident signs of both chrono- and photoaging. Product efficacy was measured as follows: skin moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), skin radiance, and color (spectrophotometer), skin elasticity and firmness (cutometer), skin roughness (image analysis), and skin thickness (ultrasound). Both intergroup and intragroup analysis proved that the daily intake of 225 mg of the active ingredient was enough to produce visible and structural improvements to the skin and to the signs of aging without any side effects. Statistically significant improvements compared to the placebo group were observed as early as 4 weeks regarding wrinkle depth, elasticity, firmness, skin thickness, skin moisturization, transepidermal water loss, and dark spots pigmentation. In addition, the subjects who consumed the blend reported better scores on the self-assessment questionnaires. Our results suggest that the intake of the test product can positively affect the appearance, barrier function, and skin density of aged skin after 12 weeks of treatment. Full article

Background: Acceptability tests are designed to demonstrate that there is no chance that cosmetics would irritate or distress users in day-to-day situations. Objectives: to develop and validate a tool or scale that dermatologists, general practitioners, and other healthcare professionals can employ to assess a cosmetic product’s tolerability, safety of usage, and pleasantness. Methods: A three-step modified Delphi technique was used in the consensus process. Two rounds of online surveys and a final face-to-face meeting were performed. Fifty experts for the Delphi panel were chosen to reflect a holistic array of expertise and perspectives in pharmacovigilance, dermatology, and cosmetic safety assessments. In round 1, 80 statements and 115 statements related to skin tolerance and cosmetic safety/efficacy, respectively, were distributed to all members of the expert panel. The expert panel was asked to rate the extent to which they agreed with each statement in the questionnaire using a 5-point Likert scale and given a chance to include a remark beside each item. A statement had to receive 80% of the panel’s approval to be accepted. Results: A total of 50 professional experts were recruited in the Delphi questionnaire rounds (response rate = 63%). The expert panel reached a consensus on 30 statements to evaluate skin tolerability and 34 statements to evaluate cosmetic safety and efficacy (agreement rate level ≥ 80%). The experts also proposed a generic, systematic approach that would allow patients to report both functional and physical symptoms in addition to those discovered during an examination (clinical signs). The confrontation of these symptoms determines whether the investigated cosmetic product is ultimately cutaneously acceptable. Conclusion: The tool that was proposed during this study offered good content validity. Future studies are recommended to test the developed tools in practice to evaluate the good skin compatibility and the safety and quality of cosmetics in the UAE and other nations. Full article

Skin type classification is important because it provides guidance for professionals and consumers to recommend and select the most appropriate cosmetic products and skin care protocols and it is also important in clinical research. Several methods have been proposed for classifying skin typologies such as non-invasive bioengineering tools (examples: Corneometer^® and Sebumeter^®), visual and tactile methods (subjective methods that evaluate skin appearance, texture, temperature, and abnormalities), artificial intelligence-based tools and instruments (examples: visual rating scales, and self-report instruments). Examples of known visual rating scales used to classify skin aging are the Griffiths Photonumeric Scale, the Glogau Scale, and the SCINEXA Scale. The Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype Classification and the Baumann Skin Type System are some of the self-report instruments used for skin type classification. Despite the diversity of methods to classify skin type and degree of skin aging, data on instruments are scarce and not adequately compiled. Validation in larger samples and with individuals of different ethnicities and geographic locations is needed to promote a more universal use. Visual rating scales and instruments are interesting tools that allow the skin to be promptly and efficiently examined, without using costly or complex equipment, and are very useful in a clinical or self-assessment context. Full article

The investigation of the mechanical properties of skin is of great interest for monitoring physiological and pathological changes in the cutaneous barrier function for dermatological and cosmetic issues. Skin constitutes a complex tissue because of its multi-layered organisation. From a rheological point of view, it can be considered to be a soft tissue with viscoelastic properties. In order to characterise ex vivo mechanical properties of skin on the mesoscopic scale, a biosensor including a thickness shear mode transducer (TSM) in contact with a skin explant was used. A specific experimental set-up was developed to monitor continuously and in real-time human skin explants, including the dermis and the epidermis. These were kept alive for up to 8 days. Skin viscoelastic evolutions can be quantified with a multi-frequency impedance measurement (from 5 MHz to 45 MHz) combined with a dedicated fractional calculus model. Two relevant parameters for the non-destructive mesoscopic characterisation of skin explants were extracted: the structural parameter ${\alpha }_{app}$ and the apparent viscosity ${\eta }_{app}$. In this study, the validity of the biosensor, including repeatability and viability, was controlled. A typical signature of the viscoelastic evolutions of the different cutaneous layers was identified. Finally, monitoring was carried out on stripped explants mimicking a weakened barrier function. Full article

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products. Full article

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens. Full article

The Arctium lappa L. plant, commonly known as burdock, has been used therapeutically for hundreds of years. Arctigenin (ATG) is an active ingredient in burdock, albeit at low quantities or mostly in the form of acrtiin (arctigenin-4-glucoside). ATG has been touted for its anti-inflammatory properties in many cell types and disease states; however, its role in skin and melanin production has not been extensively studied. Our aims for this study were to develop a burdock seed extract enriched for ATG that is amenable to quasi-drug development, determine in vitro brightening activity, and evaluate safety and skin brightening efficacy clinically in human subjects. Arctiin and ATG content were measured by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). In vitro studies utilized EpiDerm^TM tissues for skin irritation test, and MelanoDerm^TM tissues for melanin reduction capacity. A 45 subject clinical study was performed in adult subjects ranging in age from 30 to 60 years old (mean = 41.9 ± 6.7) to test the safety and skin brightening potential of 1% ABSO lotion. We demonstrate by HPLC that ABSO is a natural extract that contains ~5-times more arctigenin than BSO. Furthermore, ABSO inhibits melanin production better than BSO and retains the same melanin-reducing capacity as synthetic ATG in vitro in MelanoDerm™ 3D skin cultures. ABSO also adheres to quasi-drug criteria according to the Japanese Standards of Quasi-Drug Ingredients as determined by infrared absorption spectrum method, unsaponifiable matter, heavy metal and arsenic content, and acid, saponification, and iodine value methods. Clinical assessment of 1% ABSO lotion shows it is well-tolerated in human skin and demonstrates improved brightness and skin tone evenness. ABSO is a natural arctigenin-enriched burdock seed extract that reduces melanin content in vitro and clinically improves skin brightness. Full article

Lip inflammation may manifest as mainly reversible cheilitis, mainly irreversible, or cheilitis connected to dermatoses or systemic diseases. Therefore, knowing a patient’s medical history is important, especially whether their lip lesions are temporary, recurrent, or persistent. Sometimes temporary contributing factors, such as climate and weather conditions, can be identified and avoided—exposure to extreme weather conditions (e.g., dry, hot, or windy climates) may cause or trigger lip inflammation. Emotional and psychological stress are also mentioned in the etiology of some lip inflammations (e.g., exfoliative cheilitis) and may be associated with nervous habits such as lip licking. To better manage cheilitis, it is also helpful to look for potential concomitant comorbidities and the presence of related diseases/conditions. Some forms of cheilitis accompany dermatologic or systemic diseases (lichen, pemphigus or pemphigoid, erythema multiforme, lupus, angioedema, xerostomia, etc.) that should be uncovered. Occasionally, lip lesions are persistent and involve histological changes: actinic cheilitis, granulomatous cheilitis, glandular cheilitis, and plasmacellular cheilitis. Perioral skin inflammation with simultaneous perioral dermatitis can have various causes: the use of corticosteroids and cosmetics, dysfunction of the skin’s epidermal barrier, a contact reaction to allergens or irritants (e.g., toothpaste, dental fillings), microorganisms (e.g., Demodex spp., Candida albicans, fusiform bacteria), hormonal changes, or an atopic predisposition. Epidermal barrier dysfunction can worsen perioral dermatitis lesions and can also be related to secondary vitamin or mineral deficiencies (e.g., zinc deficiency), occlusive emollient use, sunscreen use, or excessive exposure to environmental factors such as heat, wind, and ultraviolet light. Current trends in research are uncovering valuable information concerning the skin microbiome and disruption of the epidermal barrier of persons suffering from perioral dermatitis. Ultimately, an effective approach to patient management must take all these factors and new research into account. Full article

Helichrysum italicum essential oil (H. italicum EO) is recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and wound-healing properties. The main goal of the present work was the development and characterization of a gel formulation comprising H. italicum EO loaded in chitosan nanoparticles (NPs) for dermatological applications. H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs presented hydrodynamic diameter and PdI of about 300 nm and 0.28, respectively, and a surface charge of +19 mV. The H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs were prepared by means of ionic gelation and then incorporated into a thermal water gel formulation. The organoleptic and physicochemical properties of the developed gel were studied. The gel remained stable under accelerated test conditions, maintaining pH, viscosity and organoleptic properties. In addition, the formulation presented pH, viscosity and spreadability properties suitable for topical application. Finally, the performance of the gel in topical application was evaluated on the skin of volunteers using non-invasive methods, particularly, by means of biometric evaluation. These assays showed that the properties of the developed thermal water-based gel formulation with H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs can improve skin hydration and maintain healthy skin conditions, demonstrating its putative role for distinct dermatological applications. Full article