Cosmetics

23 pages, 2392 KB

Open AccessArticle

Formulating Cod Liver Oil Nanoemulsions for Topical Application: A Multifactorial Study Linking Formulation Design to Physicochemical Stability, Oxidative Integrity and In Vitro Cytotoxicity

by Anna Iacovou, Chrysi Chaikali, Sophia Letsiou, Εvangelos Papaspyros, Michael Kornaros, Fotini N. Lamari, Konstantinos Avgoustakis and Sophia Hatziantoniou

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 173; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040173 (registering DOI) - 5 Jul 2026

Abstract

Cod liver oil is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) but is highly susceptible to oxidative degradation, limiting its use in topical formulations. This study aimed to develop stable cod liver oil nanoemulsions for topical application and to evaluated the influence [...] Read more.

Cod liver oil is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) but is highly susceptible to oxidative degradation, limiting its use in topical formulations. This study aimed to develop stable cod liver oil nanoemulsions for topical application and to evaluated the influence of surfactant ratio (lecithin/PEG-15 hydroxystearate: 2.5:1 and 1:1, w/w), emulsification method (ultrasonication or high-pressure homogenization), and vitamin E acetate supplementation on their physicochemical properties and oxidative stability. Eight nanoemulsions were characterized in terms of droplet size, polydispersity, ζ-potential, vitamin E acetate encapsulation efficiency, oxidative stability, film-forming capacity and cytocompatibility. Among the investigated formulations, F4 (2.5:1 lecithin/PEG-15 hydroxystearate, high-pressure homogenization, with vitamin E acetate) exhibited the most favorable characteristics, including a mean droplet size of 67.95 nm, ζ-potential of −63.12 mV and vitamin E acetate encapsulation efficiency of 32.59%. The formulation demonstrated good physicochemical stability under thermal, mechanical and photostability testing, improved oxidative stability, transient film-forming behavior with an initial occlusive effect, and no cytotoxicity toward human dermal fibroblasts. These findings indicate that nanoemulsion performance depends on the combined influence of formulation composition and processing conditions, with F4 representing a promising topical carrier for cod liver oil intended for interaction with the stratum corneum. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 1800 KB

Open AccessArticle

Beyond Nano-Delivery: Synerjet-Assisted Transdermal Delivery of Nano-Formulated Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (Nano-NMN) for Comprehensive Skin Rejuvenation

by Wonkyu Hong, Jaewoo Kim, Seongmin Noh, Joonho Shim, Seok-Kwang Park and Mi-Hwa Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 172; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040172 - 3 Jul 2026

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate whether the Synerjet system can maximize the transdermal delivery and skin rejuvenation of nano-NMN. In a 4-week split-face trial (n = 21), this combination demonstrated marked clinical superiority over topical nano-NMN alone (p < 0.001), yielding enhanced [...] Read more.

This study aimed to evaluate whether the Synerjet system can maximize the transdermal delivery and skin rejuvenation of nano-NMN. In a 4-week split-face trial (n = 21), this combination demonstrated marked clinical superiority over topical nano-NMN alone (p < 0.001), yielding enhanced improvements in wrinkles (with 170.56% relative improvement in periorbital and 154.45% in nasolabial region compared to the control group), pore volume (176.62%), and deep hydration (188.02%). Regarding dermal integrity, the test group showed a 111.56% superior increment in skin elasticity and a 149.75% more effective optimization of melanin intensity relative to the control. Notably, deep-tissue hydration at a 2.5 mm depth demonstrated a 188.02% higher gain, suggesting that the modality significantly fortifies the skin’s physiological moisture reservoir. The test group exhibited a marked improvement over the control across all cutaneous parameters (p < 0.001). Our findings demonstrate that a new combinatorial approach using EP-assisted microjet of a Synerjet system after cold plasma pretreatment and a nano-NMN 10% ampoule resulted in significantly greater improvements in wrinkles, pores, elasticity, pigmentation, and deep skin hydration compared to topical application alone. Consequently, these results demonstrated that the Synerjet system effectively overcame the inherent limitations of nano-delivery technologies, offering a promising modality for advanced cutaneous rejuvenation and a robust framework for future professional dermatological treatments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies—2nd Edition)

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17 pages, 1436 KB

Open AccessArticle

Antioxidant and Skin-Related Activities of a Plant-Derived Peptide Preparation (Vegan Sesamcoll) in Human Skin Cells

by Mi-Jin Lee, Hari Jang, Woo-Yong Song, Eunjandi Go, Kyong Jin Lee and Boo-Sik Jang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 171; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040171 - 2 Jul 2026

Abstract

Natural materials derived from plants have attracted considerable attention as sustainable ingredients for skin-related applications. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and skin-related biological activities of a plant-derived peptide preparation obtained from Sesamum indicum L. by enzymatic hydrolysis (Vegan Sesamcoll, SCP). The [...] Read more.

Natural materials derived from plants have attracted considerable attention as sustainable ingredients for skin-related applications. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and skin-related biological activities of a plant-derived peptide preparation obtained from Sesamum indicum L. by enzymatic hydrolysis (Vegan Sesamcoll, SCP). The antioxidant activity of SCP was assessed using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays. SCP inhibited collagenase activity and increased type I collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, SCP increased hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) protein production in human epidermal keratinocytes. These findings indicate that SCP exhibited concentration dependent radical scavenging activity, collagenase inhibitory activity, increased type I collagen production, and enhanced HAS2/HAS3 protein production in vitro in human skin cells. The results suggest that SCP may have potential as a plant-derived cosmetic ingredient for skin-related applications. However, additional studies, including further characterization of the peptide preparation, mechanistic investigations, bioavailability evaluation, and human clinical studies, are required to further validate its biological activities and potential cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 3752 KB

Open AccessArticle

Targeting the Dual Nature of Facial Aging: A Clinical and Instrumental Study of a Multi-Active Cream on Static and Dynamic Wrinkles

by Han Tao, Qian Wang, Qiansong Yu, Xiaosheng Liu, Sue Chang and Yun Li

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 170; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040170 - 2 Jul 2026

Abstract

Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires [...] Read more.

Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires objective, non-invasive endpoints alongside standardized clinical grading. Aim: This study aimed to evaluate the clinical and instrumental efficacy of a multi-active topical cream on static and dynamic wrinkles over 8 weeks of twice-a-day use. Methods: After a 2-week washout, we conducted a monocentric, open-label study on 62 Chinese women (25–55) who used the topical cream twice daily for 8 weeks (per-protocol n = 49; dynamic-wrinkle subset n = 41; dermatologist 0–9 grading at T0/Timm/W4/W8). The instrumental endpoints were PRIMOS-CR wrinkle morphometry (forehead, crow’s feet) and periocular high-frequency ultrasound (UC22). Dynamic wrinkles were assessed via high-speed smile imaging (max P10; mean P1–P10). Statistics comprised Wilcoxon’s tests for dermatologist-graded (ordinal) endpoints and repeated-measures ANOVA with Dunnett’s tests for continuous instrumental endpoints (α = 0.05). Results: Improvements were evident at Timm (periorbital elasticity −17.70%, global-face elasticity −15.23%, firmness −19.47%, smoothness −20.16%, radiance −25.75%; all p < 0.001). By Week 8, dermatologist-graded wrinkles generally decreased: crow’s feet −26.89%, under-eye −33.74%, glabellar −35.30%, forehead −34.69% (all p < 0.001). PRIMOS showed reductions in wrinkle area/length (forehead area −8.69%, length −12.05%; crow’s feet area −8.70%, length −16.03%; all p < 0.001). Ultrasound indicated increased periocular epidermal thickness (+26.57%) and density (+12.69%) (both p = 0.005). Dynamic-wrinkle grades improved during smiling (under-eye: max −12.64%, mean −15.74%; crow’s feet: max −15.97%, mean −16.89%; all p < 0.001), with reductions across P1–P10. Conclusions: In real-life, with twice-daily use, the multi-active cream demonstrated significant within-subject improvements in both static and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles, as supported by dermatologist grading, PRIMOS 3D wrinkle morphometry, and periocular high-frequency ultrasound. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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26 pages, 6097 KB

Open AccessArticle

LC-MS/MS-Based Phytochemical Profiling and Biological Activities of Eurycoma longifolia Jack Extracts with Cosmeceutical Potential

by Thanyaluck Siriyong, Julalak Chorachoo Ontong, Sudarshan Singh, Popat Mohite, Sakawrat Pannara, Wanphen Buakong, Waraporn Pechkeo, Lapasrada Inchan and Chuda Chittasupho

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 169; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040169 - 1 Jul 2026

Abstract

This study investigates the optimization of extraction conditions, phytochemical contents, biological activities, and cosmeceutical potential of Eurycoma longifolia Jack extracts obtained from wild and cultivated plant roots, stems, and leaves. HPLC analysis revealed that eurycomanone was predominantly accumulated in the root extracts. Among [...] Read more.

This study investigates the optimization of extraction conditions, phytochemical contents, biological activities, and cosmeceutical potential of Eurycoma longifolia Jack extracts obtained from wild and cultivated plant roots, stems, and leaves. HPLC analysis revealed that eurycomanone was predominantly accumulated in the root extracts. Among the extraction solvents, 70% ethanol exhibited the most effective extraction of bioactive compounds. Leaf extracts showed the highest total flavonoid content (255.71–269.67 mg quercetin/g sample) and total phenolic content (20.34–20.80 mg gallic acid/g sample). Furthermore, 70% ethanol leaf extracts demonstrated strong antioxidant activity with DPPH IC₅₀ values of 6.37 ± 0.74 and 7.95 ± 0.86 µg/mL for wild and cultivated samples, respectively, and potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity with IC₅₀ values of 50.71 ± 3.92 and 55.80 ± 4.75 µg/mL. The extracts also exhibited selective antibacterial activity against Gram-positive bacteria. Moreover, the in silico molecular docking of biflorin against the 2QVD protein exhibited the highest binding affinity (−7.4 kcal/moL). Anti-inflammatory activity was evidenced by nitric oxide inhibition in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages without significant cytotoxicity. Overall, 70% ethanol extracts, particularly from leaves and roots, exhibited promising biological activities and may serve as potential natural ingredients for future cosmeceutical applications. However, further studies are required to confirm their efficacy and safety before practical applications can be considered. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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13 pages, 7424 KB

Open AccessArticle

Risk-Based Assessment of Cosmetic Preservation Using Raw-Material-Associated Microorganisms in an Adapted EN ISO 11930 Challenge Test

by Binal Dobariya, Ghazaleh Fazlikhani, Marian E. Delsing, Robert Beinio and Dirk P. Bockmühl

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 168; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040168 - 30 Jun 2026

Abstract

Cosmetic formulations containing natural or minimally processed raw materials are prone to microbial contamination, which can compromise product safety and quality. The standard ISO 11930 preservation challenge test employs a predefined set of test microorganisms, which may not adequately represent product-associated contaminants. In [...] Read more.

Cosmetic formulations containing natural or minimally processed raw materials are prone to microbial contamination, which can compromise product safety and quality. The standard ISO 11930 preservation challenge test employs a predefined set of test microorganisms, which may not adequately represent product-associated contaminants. In the present study, an adapted ISO 11930 preservation challenge test was applied to compare the antimicrobial performance of four preservative systems in an oil-in-water cosmetic formulation. In addition to the five standard reference strains, seven environmental and raw-material-associated microorganisms associated with walnut and apricot kernel shells were included. All preservative-containing formulations fulfilled the required acceptance criteria; however, marked differences in time-dependent antimicrobial activity were observed between preservative systems. Among the tested systems, the formulation containing 0.4% potassium sorbate demonstrated the most rapid and broad-spectrum antimicrobial performance across the expanded microbial panel. In contrast, combinations of potassium sorbate with sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol showed slower antimicrobial efficacy. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that reliance solely on standard reference microorganisms may underestimate preservation risks in cosmetics that use naturally derived raw materials. The adaptive preservation challenge test is a risk assessment approach for evaluating the microbiological stability of cosmetic formulations with reduced-preservative systems. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 8734 KB

Open AccessArticle

Protective Effects of Antioxidant Chaga Mushroom Decoction on Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts Exposed to UV-A

by Naoki Doi, Sayaka Eiyama, Kazuichi Araki, Kyosuke Miyagawa, Ayaka Koike, Yukinori Yamauchi, Shin-ichi Kondo and Masayuki Kuzuya

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 167; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040167 - 29 Jun 2026

Abstract

Skin cells exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation may experience reduced elasticity in skin tissue due to the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the overexpression of collagen type I-degrading enzymes (MMP-1). Beyond preventing UV exposure with sunscreen, components that protect the inner [...] Read more.

Skin cells exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation may experience reduced elasticity in skin tissue due to the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the overexpression of collagen type I-degrading enzymes (MMP-1). Beyond preventing UV exposure with sunscreen, components that protect the inner surface of skin tissue may suppress the expression of ROS and their subsequent effects. In this study, the suppression of ROS production from UV-A-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) using Chaga-derived polyphenol decoction (CPD) was examined with confocal laser scanning microscopy. Pretreatment with CPD reduced ROS expression to less than 5% compared to the blank. The evaluation of MMP-1 expression levels induced by ROS production from UV-A-irradiated NHDFs using an ELISA showed that MMP-1 expression in CPD-pretreated NHDFs was suppressed by more than 30% compared to untreated NHDFs. Furthermore, three-dimensional collagen gels containing NHDFs were prepared, and a dynamic mechanical analysis of the elasticity of UV-A-irradiated gels revealed that pretreatment with CPD maintained elasticity at more than five times that of the CPD-untreated gel. These findings suggest that CPD may be promising as a functional food for protecting skin tissue. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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19 pages, 2708 KB

Open AccessArticle

Systematic Optimization of Transfer Learning for Acne Severity Classification Using Restricted, Imbalanced and Non-Public Facial Images: An Experimental Study

by Taradon Khonsiri, Woottichai Nachaiwieng, Anon Paichitrojjana and Pattaramon Vuttipittayamongkol

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 166; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040166 - 29 Jun 2026

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory skin condition that requires accurate severity assessment for effective management. As a step toward more objective and reproducible severity assessment, this study developed an optimized transfer learning-based convolutional neural network (CNN) framework for facial acne severity classification [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory skin condition that requires accurate severity assessment for effective management. As a step toward more objective and reproducible severity assessment, this study developed an optimized transfer learning-based convolutional neural network (CNN) framework for facial acne severity classification using a restricted, imbalanced, non-public facial image dataset. A total of 442 frontal facial images were collected under natural lighting conditions. Acne severity was graded by a board-certified dermatologist using the Investigator’s Global Assessment (IGA) scale and categorized into three levels. The study systematically investigated model architecture selection, hyperparameter tuning, optimizer comparison, cross-validation, and class-imbalance handling through random oversampling, Synthetic Minority Over-sampling Technique (SMOTE), and Generative Adversarial Networks (GANs). The 5-fold cross-validation experiment supported the reliability of model performance across different data partitions, achieving an accuracy of 0.51. Resampling methods showed limited overall benefit, although some methods altered class-wise prediction patterns. To further examine model behavior, Gradient-weighted Class Activation Mapping (Grad-CAM) visualization was used to provide qualitative insight into the facial regions contributing to model predictions. Although the findings are limited by dataset size and diversity, the proposed framework suggests exploratory feasibility for automated acne severity assessment. Rather than serving as an immediately deployable clinical tool, this pipeline provides a preliminary baseline framework that requires further validation using larger, more diverse datasets, particularly to address subtle visual differences between acne severity classes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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19 pages, 3620 KB

Open AccessArticle

Cannabidiol-Loaded Hyaluronic Acid-Based Nanogel for Inflammatory Acne: In Vitro and Open-Label, Non-Randomized Clinical Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability

by Peerawas Kopongpanich, Kittima Lekmanee, Kittipong Sanookpan, Vipaporn Panapisal, Chavee Laomeephol, Sornkanok Vimolmangkang, Visarut Buranasudja and Jittima Amie Luckanagul

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 165; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040165 - 28 Jun 2026

Abstract

Acne is a common inflammatory skin condition that significantly impacts quality of life. Standard treatments often cause skin irritation or contribute to antibiotic resistance. Cannabidiol (CBD) has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties; however, its application is limited by poor solubility and stability. This [...] Read more.

Acne is a common inflammatory skin condition that significantly impacts quality of life. Standard treatments often cause skin irritation or contribute to antibiotic resistance. Cannabidiol (CBD) has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties; however, its application is limited by poor solubility and stability. This study investigated the physicochemical properties of a CBD-loaded hyaluronic acid–graft-poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) nanogel (Hy-CBD). The biological activities of Hy-CBD, including its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, were also evaluated. In addition, an exploratory clinical study was conducted to assess the safety and efficacy of the formulation in 22 Asian participants with inflammatory acne. In this open-label, non-randomized study, participants applied the gel twice daily for seven days. Assessments of skin tolerance, lesion size, redness, and pigmentation were performed at baseline, Day 2, and Day 7 using clinical examination and imaging analysis. The Hy-CBD gel was clinically tolerated, with no evidence of comedogenic or acnegenic potential. By Day 7, inflammatory lesion size was reduced by 46%, with significant improvements in redness and post-inflammatory pigmentation. All participants reported a subjective reduction in acne severity and expressed satisfaction with the treatment outcomes. These findings suggest that the Hy-CBD gel is a safe and promising delivery system for acne management. Nevertheless, larger randomized controlled studies are required to validate these preliminary findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)

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16 pages, 2123 KB

Open AccessReview

Formulating Glycolic Acid: Balancing Penetration, Irritation, and Therapeutic Outcomes in Dermatology

by Bernard Cambier, Diana Barragan Ferrer, Luc Huysmans, Florence Cambier and Jesus Manuel Barragan Ferrer

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 164; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040164 - 27 Jun 2026

Abstract

Glycolic acid is the most widely used alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), largely because of its small molecular size (76 Da), which allows more efficient skin penetration than larger AHAs such as lactic acid (90 Da) or mandelic acid (152 Da). Its efficacy depends on [...] Read more.

Glycolic acid is the most widely used alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), largely because of its small molecular size (76 Da), which allows more efficient skin penetration than larger AHAs such as lactic acid (90 Da) or mandelic acid (152 Da). Its efficacy depends on concentration and formulation pH relative to its pKa (~3.8), which determines the amount of free acid available for skin interaction. At pH 3.8, approximately 50% of glycolic acid is present as free acid; at pH 4.5, this fraction falls to approximately 18%. In an 8% formulation, about 4% is free acid at pH 3.8, compared with about 1.4% at pH 4.5. This review examines how formulation design influences the penetration, irritation, and therapeutic outcomes of glycolic acid in professional peels and daily use products. Low-pH, high-concentration professional peels (20–70%, pH approximately 1.0–2.5) promote rapid penetration, calcium chelation-mediated corneodesmosome disruption, and controlled exfoliation, but they also increase irritation and transient transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In contrast, buffered daily use formulations (5–15%, pH 3.5–4.5) provide gradual exfoliation, improved tolerability, and longer-term benefits in skin texture, pigmentation, collagen, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. Overall, the safety and efficacy of glycolic acid are highly formulation-dependent, so different design strategies are needed for daily products and professional peels. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)

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23 pages, 3618 KB

Open AccessArticle

An Optimized Naturally Derived Formulation Extract Alleviates UV-Induced Skin Photoaging and Supports Topical Lotion and Cream Development

by Ziyi Yang, Bingchen Han, Ying Chen, Youqing Wang, Yuzhen Huang, Jiali Ran, Xiaobo Zeng and Haiying Wang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 163; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040163 - 26 Jun 2026

Abstract

This study investigated the protective effect of an optimized naturally derived formulation extract against ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging and its preliminary potential for topical formulation development. A mouse model was established by combined UVA + UVB irradiation and D-galactose administration. Skin phenotype, histopathology, oxidative [...] Read more.

This study investigated the protective effect of an optimized naturally derived formulation extract against ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging and its preliminary potential for topical formulation development. A mouse model was established by combined UVA + UVB irradiation and D-galactose administration. Skin phenotype, histopathology, oxidative stress, and inflammation-related indicators were evaluated, and representative constituents were identified by HPLC. The loading level of the active extract was screened using a DPPH radical-scavenging assay, and lotion and cream formulations were optimized through emulsification-condition screening and response surface methodology. The final products were further evaluated for appearance, pH, short-term physical stability, moisture-retention performance, and DPPH radical-scavenging capacity. The extract significantly alleviated skin roughness, wrinkle deepening, epidermal thickening, and collagen fiber disorganization in mice, increased SOD, GSH-Px, and CAT activities, and reduced MDA, ROS, 8-oxoG, TNF-α, IL-6, and MMP-3 levels. HPLC identified representative constituents including 6-gingerol, ferulic acid, senkyunolide, ligustilide, atractylenolide, cinnamaldehyde, quercetin, amygdalin, and sarsasapogenin. The optimal loading level was 1.6 μg/mL. The optimized lotion and cream exhibited acceptable appearance, suitable pH, and short-term physical stability under the tested conditions, while retaining measurable DPPH radical-scavenging capacity. These findings indicate that the naturally derived formulation extract exerts anti-photoaging effects by alleviating oxidative damage, suppressing inflammatory responses, and improving extracellular matrix abnormalities, and that it has preliminary potential for topical formulation development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—3rd Edition)

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22 pages, 1747 KB

Open AccessArticle

Isorhamnetin Derivatives from Opuntia ficus-indica Oil-Extraction By-Products: NADES-Based Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction Optimization, Phytochemical Profiling, and Bioactivity Assessment

by Mohamed Addi, Amine Elbouzidi, Ahmed Marhri, Laurine Garros, Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Malika Abid and Christophe Hano

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 162; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040162 - 23 Jun 2026

Abstract

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) generates substantial agro-industrial by-products, such as press cake, seed, and oil, that remain underexploited despite their recognized phytochemical richness. This study reports the systematic optimization, characterization, and bioactivity profiling of flavonoid-rich extracts recovered from these three [...] Read more.

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) generates substantial agro-industrial by-products, such as press cake, seed, and oil, that remain underexploited despite their recognized phytochemical richness. This study reports the systematic optimization, characterization, and bioactivity profiling of flavonoid-rich extracts recovered from these three matrices. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) coupled with response surface methodology (RSM) was applied to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) of total flavonoid content (TFC) from press cake using a natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES: fructose–glycerol–sorbitol–water and FGSH), selected through an initial screening of fifteen solvent systems. The quadratic polynomial model showed excellent fit (R² = 0.9852; R²adj = 0.9687; MAPE = 1.31%; Durbin–Watson = 1.857), and optimal extraction conditions were established at 37.6 min extraction time, 35.6% ultrasonic power, and 29.4 °C, yielding a maximum predicted TFC of 54.78 ± 0.49 mg quercetin equivalents (QE)/mL. HPLC-DAD analysis of the press cake extract revealed five isorhamnetin derivatives as the dominant flavonoids, with isorhamnetin-3-O-glucoside (23.18 ± 0.12 mg/g DW) and isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside (13.80 ± 0.28 mg/g DW) as the most abundant. Comprehensive bioactivity assessment demonstrated significant antioxidant capacities (CUPRAC: 191.35 ± 3.22 µM AAE; ORAC: 184.44 ± 3.44 µM TE; DPPH: 103.47 ± 9.98 µM TE for press cake extract), potent in cellulo ROS/RNS suppression in a yeast UV-stress model (85.9 ± 1.0% inhibition for press cake), and differential tyrosinase inhibition across fractions (press cake: 32.8%; seed: 57.5%; oil: 83.8%), highlighting the oil as a potent anti-melanogenic ingredient. In silico safety prediction (ProTox-II/pkCSM) confirmed the favorable toxicity profiles of all identified isorhamnetin derivatives (LD₅₀ > 5000 mg/kg; Toxicity Class V). These results collectively position Opuntia ficus-indica by-products as high-value natural sources of bioactive flavonoids with applications in cosmetic, nutraceutical, and dermatological formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—3rd Edition)

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2 pages, 137 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Lee et al. Liquid Extract from the Bark of Magnolia officinalis Rejuvenates Skin Aging Through Mitochondrial ROS Reduction. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 22

by Yun Haeng Lee, Eun Young Jeong, Ye Hyang Kim, Sekyung Oh, Jee Hee Yoon, Ji Ho Park, Yoo Jin Lee, Duyeol Kim, Byeonghyeon So, Minseon Kim, So Yeon Kim, Hyung Wook Kwon, Youngjoo Byun, Song Seok Shin and Joon Tae Park

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 161; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040161 - 23 Jun 2026

Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

13 pages, 1304 KB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Particulate Adhesion Efficacy of a Cosmetic Product: A Controlled In Vivo Study Using a Patented Exposure Chamber

by Youngrin Kwag, Huijeong Jeong, Yoori Kang, Min Sook Jung, Wonkyu Hong and Hongseok Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 160; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030160 - 19 Jun 2026

Abstract

This study validated a controlled in vivo test protocol using a patented particulate exposure chamber (Korean Patent No. 10-2020-0068941) to evaluate the anti-particulate adhesion efficacy of a cosmetic sunscreen formulation (SPF 50+, PA++++). The primary aim was methodological—to demonstrate that the chamber system [...] Read more.

This study validated a controlled in vivo test protocol using a patented particulate exposure chamber (Korean Patent No. 10-2020-0068941) to evaluate the anti-particulate adhesion efficacy of a cosmetic sunscreen formulation (SPF 50+, PA++++). The primary aim was methodological—to demonstrate that the chamber system can reliably detect differences in carbon black adhesion under standardised conditions. A split-site paired design was applied to 22 healthy adult females (mean age 60.3 ± 5.2 years; range 46–68 years). Carbon black particles (≤10 μm) were dispersed via a precision dual-stage pneumatic nozzle within a sealed chamber (22 ± 2 °C; 50 ± 5% RH). Between-group comparison was assessed by the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (primary) and the generalised estimating equation (GEE) model (complementary between-group comparison per institutional SOP). The treated site showed a 55.0% reduction in carbon black adhesion (treated: 4243 ± 2225 pixels; control: 9430 ± 4769 pixels, SE = 4.82, 95% CI: −64.4 to −45.6, Wald Z = −11.41, p < 0.001; Cohen’s d = 2.43). The Wilcoxon test confirmed the result independently (Z = −4.11, p < 0.001). All 22 subjects (100%) showed consistent reduction directionality (individual rates: 22.6–74.2%; mean 51.8%; median 52.3%). Bootstrap resampling (n = 10,000), outlier-exclusion, and exact sign test sensitivity analyses all confirmed robustness. These findings represent proof-of-concept methodological validation applied to a single product under accelerated exposure conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Non-Invasive Diagnostics: New Advance in Cosmetology and Aesthetic Medicine)

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15 pages, 1450 KB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Effect of Soft, Hard and Chlorinated Water on Atopic Skin and Clinical Benefits of a Dermocosmetic Routine

by Sandrine Bergera Virassamnaik, Helena Polena, Noëlle Remoué, Benoît Cadars, Elodie Prestat-Marquis and Elodie Valin

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 159; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030159 - 19 Jun 2026

Abstract

Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether [...] Read more.

Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether a dermocosmetic routine mitigates these effects. Methods: In a 3-day, open-label, intra-individual study, 66 adults with atopic skin underwent repeated forearm immersions (five cycles/day) in soft, hard, or chlorinated water. One forearm received a cleansing-oil and moisturising-balm routine after each cycle; the contralateral forearm served as untreated control. TEWL, hydration, and global discomfort were assessed. In a 21-day real-life study, adults with AD regularly exposed to hard domestic or swimming-pool water used the routine daily. Discomfort and quality of life were recorded. Results: Water immersion induced modest, inconsistent TEWL changes, increased hydration and slightly reduced discomfort, without differences between water types. The routine reduced TEWL, increased hydration, and decreased discomfort for all water types. In real life, it produced immediate and sustained improvements in discomfort and quality of life. Conclusions: Under controlled exposure, soft, hard, and chlorinated water exert comparable, limited effects on atopic skin. The dermocosmetic routine consistently improves barrier-related parameters and comfort, independently of water type. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)

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21 pages, 2409 KB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetic Anti-Aging Potential of the Traditional Thai Longevity Formula Mai-Kae-Den-Klong: Mechanistic Insights from Enzyme-Based Bioassays and In Silico Analysis

by Theeraphan Chumroenphat, Nattapong Wongchum, Surapon Saensouk, Kusawadee Plekratoke, Panupong Mahalapbutr, Khin Soe Win, Saran Chaweerak, Subramani Paranthaman Balasubramani and Ananya Dechakhamphu

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 158; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030158 - 18 Jun 2026

Abstract

Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a [...] Read more.

Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a traditional Thai longevity herbal formula composed of Albizia procera (Roxb.) Benth., Cyperus rotundus L., Diospyros rhodocalyx Kurz, Piper nigrum L., Streblus asper Lour., and Tinospora crispa (L.) Hook.f. & Thomson, has historically been used to promote vitality and healthy aging; however, its potential application as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient remains scientifically unexplored. Therefore, this study investigated the anti-aging potential of MKDK extract using integrated enzyme-based bioassays and in silico approaches. Phytochemical profiling of the ethanolic extract was performed using LC-MS analysis, revealing diverse bioactive constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic glycosides, alkaloids, and terpenoids, with (−)-epicatechin, procyanidin B1, and piperine identified as major metabolites. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays, while inhibitory activities against tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were assessed to determine skin anti-aging potential. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with IC₅₀ values of 17.23 ± 2.11 µg/mL for DPPH and 11.87 ± 1.77 µg/mL for ABTS assays. In addition, the extract demonstrated inhibitory effects against tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 41.25 ± 1.56 µg/mL), elastase (IC₅₀ = 49.51 ± 3.69 µg/mL), collagenase (IC₅₀ = 61.54 ± 2.88 µg/mL), and hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 63.74 ± 6.32 µg/mL), suggesting multifunctional anti-aging properties associated with skin brightening and extracellular matrix preservation. Network pharmacology analysis predicted multiple aging-related signaling pathways, particularly the FoxO signaling pathway, which is associated with oxidative stress regulation and longevity. Molecular docking analysis further demonstrated favorable binding affinities of procyanidin B1, epicatechin, and piperine toward skin-aging-related enzymes, supporting their potential contribution to the observed bioactivities. Overall, these findings suggest that MKDK possesses promising cosmeceutical potential as a natural multifunctional anti-aging ingredient and provides scientific support for the application of traditional Thai herbal formulations in cosmetic and skin health products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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Graphical abstract

17 pages, 7596 KB

Open AccessReview

From Collagen Colour to Collagen Biology: An Integrated Framework for Dermal Remodelling Assessment

by Francesco Marchetti, Matteo Basso, Giuseppe Colombo, Dissapong Panithaporn and Maurizio Cavallini

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 157; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030157 - 18 Jun 2026

Abstract

Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological [...] Read more.

Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological endpoint. Picrosirius red (PSR) staining under polarised light remains the most frequently used method for visualising collagen architecture; however, its birefringence colour patterns are often misinterpreted as proxies for collagen subtype shifts, particularly between types I and III. This conceptual review examines the methodological basis of such interpretations. We summarise the biological roles of major dermal collagens and compare current histochemical, immunohistochemical, ultrastructural and molecular methods for collagen assessment. We propose an interpretative framework that separates architectural collagen remodelling from molecular collagen synthesis and addresses the temporal dissociation between early fibre reorganisation and later subtype-specific expression as a plausible explanation for between-study discrepancies. Practical guidance is provided to support responsible interpretation and reporting of PSR-based collagen analyses. PSR is best regarded as a complementary tool for assessing collagen architecture rather than a definitive method for collagen subtype identification. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 18858 KB

Open AccessArticle

Direct Contact with CaHA Microspheres Drives ECM Stimulation In Vitro

by Yoana Dimitrova, Cleiton Kunzler, Kristina Riegel, Daniela Schäfer, Christina Wollenburg, Thomas Hengl and Christian Hartmann

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 156; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030156 - 18 Jun 2026

Abstract

Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression [...] Read more.

Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression of extracellular matrix (ECM) components. To this end, human dermal fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of CaHA microspheres. Cell migration, cell–microsphere interaction, and CaHA dose-dependent effects on the expression of ECM proteins were examined using microscopy, mRNA and protein expression analysis. Our results indicated that fibroblasts established direct and close contact to CaHA microspheres. This interaction was associated with a time- and dose-dependent increase in ECM protein expression, including collagen-1, emilin-1, elastin, fibulin-5, fibronectin, and the proteoglycans—lumican and versican. These observations indicate that direct contact between fibroblasts and CaHA microspheres promotes ECM protein expression, suggesting a role for this interaction in supporting skin regeneration and counteracting age-related changes, potentially augmented in vivo by immunomodulatory effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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18 pages, 2022 KB

Open AccessReview

Donor Site Preservation and Long-Term Management in Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE): A Structured Clinical Framework for Surgical Planning and Complication Prevention

by Abdulaziz Balwi and Tamer Koldas

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030155 - 16 Jun 2026

Abstract

Background: Follicular unit extraction (FUE) has become the dominant donor site harvesting technique in modern hair transplantation due to its ability to avoid linear scar formation and its procedural flexibility. However, the donor site is a limited non-regenerative source. Excessive or poorly planned [...] Read more.

Background: Follicular unit extraction (FUE) has become the dominant donor site harvesting technique in modern hair transplantation due to its ability to avoid linear scar formation and its procedural flexibility. However, the donor site is a limited non-regenerative source. Excessive or poorly planned extraction can lead to visible thinning, hypopigmented scarring, and reduced reserve for future procedures. Objective: This study aimed to synthesize current evidence on donor biology, preoperative assessment, extraction strategy, and complication prevention in FUE, and to propose a reproducible clinical framework for donor preservation. Methods: A structured narrative review was conducted using PubMed/MEDLINE, Scopus, and Google Scholar to identify English-language publications related to donor site biology, donor evaluation, extraction density thresholds, complication prevention, repeat session planning, and emerging FUE technologies. Priority was given to recent reviews, clinical trials, consensus statements, and practice-oriented surgical literature. Articles were selected not for formal meta-analytic pooling, but because of their relevance to donor conservation and long-term donor management. Results: The literature reviewed consistently identifies excessive local extraction density, harvesting beyond conservative limits, donor miniaturization, and inadequate reassessment before repeated procedures as the primary drivers of donor morbidity. Evidence from reviews, clinical trials, and expert guidelines supports conservative extraction thresholds, widespread spatial distribution, individualized donor mapping, and phased long-term planning as key strategies for preserving donor aesthetics and reserve. Conclusions: Donor preservation is central to ethical and sustainable FUE surgery. Integration of biologically informed assessment, disciplined extraction control, and mandatory reassessment protocols can reduce morbidity while preserving long-term graft flexibility in patients with progressive androgenetic alopecia. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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