Cosmetics

47 pages, 653 KiB

Open AccessReview

by Margaret Sullivan, Constancio Gonzalez Obezo, Zachary Lipsky, Abhishek Panchal and Jaide Jensen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030096 (registering DOI) - 10 May 2025

This review synthesizes the latest research and developments to take into consideration for creating advanced sun protection products that meet evolving consumer demands. It examines the multifaceted effects of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, blue light, and infrared) on the skin, detailing cellular damage [...] Read more.

This review synthesizes the latest research and developments to take into consideration for creating advanced sun protection products that meet evolving consumer demands. It examines the multifaceted effects of solar radiation (UVB, UVA, blue light, and infrared) on the skin, detailing cellular damage mechanisms, including DNA and RNA damage, and oxidative stress. It covers advancements in sunscreen formulation science, delivery systems, and UV filters. It delves into testing methodology advancements addressing in vivo limitations, new regulatory guidelines, and the integration of artificial intelligence from new UV filter development to consumer facing apps. Finally, it highlights biotechnology’s potential to deliver novel sustainable UV filters. By providing a holistic perspective on these interdisciplinary advancements, this review serves as background reading, informing future sunscreen development and fostering a comprehensive approach to photoprotection that address current and emerging challenges. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)

12 pages, 2608 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Examination of Fungal and Root Extracts Inspired by Traditional Medicine for Potential Periorbital Eye Infrastructure Treatments

by James V. Gruber, Nicole Terpak, Sebastien Massard, Xiang Chen, John Craffey and Robert Holtz

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030095 - 8 May 2025

Abstract

An early indicator of aging may appear around the eyes and the surrounding eye infrastructure. With aging, there come diminishing changes in vascular microcirculation and the accumulation of hemoglobin by-products that gather in the fatty pads beneath the eyes as dark circles, akin [...] Read more.

An early indicator of aging may appear around the eyes and the surrounding eye infrastructure. With aging, there come diminishing changes in vascular microcirculation and the accumulation of hemoglobin by-products that gather in the fatty pads beneath the eyes as dark circles, akin to skin bruising. In addition, the extracellular matrix that surrounds the eye is exposed to external threats like UV radiation, weather and pollution, as well as lifestyle choices that create fatigue. This causes the eyes to express wrinkles well before they begin to appear on the rest of the face, particularly in the corners of the eyes called the crow’s feet region. Consumers spend considerable amounts of resources combatting these effects. If consumers could treat some of the sources of these problems, in advance of the inevitable influences of aging, a kind of prejuvenation of the eye infrastructure, then perhaps the inevitable outcomes of aging apparent around the eyes could be slowed. This paper examines the development and in vitro testing of two unique botanical extracts, one based on a traditional medicine mushroom called Phellinus linteus (Huang Sang) and the other based on a traditional medicine root from the plant Angelica polymorpha sinensis (Dong Quai). When combined, these two extracts create a blend called ANGEL-EYE EFX^® [INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Phellinus Linteus Extract (and) Angelica polymorpha sinensis Root Extract]. There are several key biomolecules of interest present in this blend, including hispolon, dihydrozingerone, and arginine, as demonstrated using advanced liquid chromatography/mass spectral analyses. The individual extracts were also broadly examined using human genomic microarray assays and then more specifically for their ability to influence several important skin proteins associated with undereye skin aging, including CYGB (Human Cytoglobin), OXSR1 (Oxidative Stress Response Kinase-1), LCE3B (Late Cornified Envelope-3B), EGFR (Epidermal Growth Factor Receptor), VEGFA (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor-1), and NINJ1 (Ninjurin-1). It was found that the treatment of Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) with increasing concentrations of the active blend between 0.05 and 2.0% showed statistically significant increases in all the proteins noted except VEGFA, which showed a statistically significant decrease in protein expression with the treatment of the Angelica polymorpha sinensis extract at 1.0%. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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18 pages, 1831 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Personalized Beauty: How Clinical Insights Shape Tailored Aesthetic Treatments

by Sara Campanella and Lorenzo Palma

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030094 - 7 May 2025

Abstract

Aesthetic procedures have advanced significantly, transcending mere vanity to become practical tools for enhancing well-being. The diversity of available aesthetic treatments and products can make it challenging for both professionals and consumers. Consequently, the field of aesthetics has begun to incorporate AI techniques. [...] Read more.

Aesthetic procedures have advanced significantly, transcending mere vanity to become practical tools for enhancing well-being. The diversity of available aesthetic treatments and products can make it challenging for both professionals and consumers. Consequently, the field of aesthetics has begun to incorporate AI techniques. The scope of this article is to evaluate the effects of various cosmetic procedures using the T•modella 5.0 machine and assess their effectiveness. We gathered data from 11 aesthetic centres and 36 subjects with different body constitutions (normal, overweight and obese). This is a prospective, multicenter, interventional study designed to assess the impact of the procedures on the participants. Clustering methods were used to analyse the results, identify trends and evaluate the efficacy. Additionally, we developed a novel algorithm that tailors cosmetic treatment regimens according to the unique physiological characteristics of each patient. The initial weight of patients has been found to influence the efficacy of treatments. Significant improvements have been observed in obese individuals, with reductions of 6% in hip circumference, 8% in waist circumference, and a decrease in fat mass. In contrast, overweight and normal-weight individuals exhibited less consistent outcomes, with results influenced by external factors such as stress, physical exercise, and medication. By utilising clustering techniques, we were able to move beyond traditional weight-based analyses. Based on these findings, we developed a recommendation system that can be integrated into treatment devices to optimise both clinical and aesthetic results. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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14 pages, 2355 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Porosity and Resistance of Textured Hair: Assessing Chemical and Physical Damage Under Consumer-Relevant Conditions

by Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Carolina Botelho Lourenço and Gislaine Ricci Leonardi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030093 - 6 May 2025

Abstract

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, [...] Read more.

The porosity of hair fibers can be modified by chemical and physical damage, influencing their response to cosmetic treatments. To investigate the effect of commonly applied hair care protocols on textured hair, virgin and once-bleached tresses were subjected to multiple cycles of washing, blow-drying while combing, and styling with a hot flat iron, simulating a consumer routine spanning one to six months. Porosity-related properties were evaluated using swelling test, fluorescence, atomic force, and scanning electron microscopies, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry, and tensile testing. Both chemical and physical processes induced significant changes in the hair’s water permeability, surface topography, and appearance, alongside a reduction in mechanical and thermal properties, indicating substantial structural alterations compared to virgin hair. Increased porosity compared to virgin hair possibly reduced the heat conductivity of bleached hair, leading to less pronounced effects of heat exposure. These findings underscore the damaging potential of routine practices for textured hair and emphasize the need for targeted cosmetic solutions to protect and repair these fibers as part of consumers’ hair care regimens. Full article

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22 pages, 3465 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Biological Activities and Cytotoxicity of Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr Extracts and Investigation of Its Novel Natural Active Ingredient-Loaded Nanoemulsion and Stability Assessment

by Panikchar Wichayapreechar, Ranit Charoenjittichai, Anchalee Prasansuklab, Pimchanok Charoongchit and Eakkaluk Wongwad

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030092 - 2 May 2025

Abstract

Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr. (Acanthaceae family) has traditionally been used as a natural food colorant and in the treatment of various diseases. However, its biological activities—particularly its anti-glycation and anti-lipid peroxidation properties—as well as the development of novel nanoemulsions incorporating crude P. bivalvis [...] Read more.

Peristrophe bivalvis (L.) Merr. (Acanthaceae family) has traditionally been used as a natural food colorant and in the treatment of various diseases. However, its biological activities—particularly its anti-glycation and anti-lipid peroxidation properties—as well as the development of novel nanoemulsions incorporating crude P. bivalvis leaf extracts for cosmetic applications, have not yet been reported. The aim of this study was to explore the potential of P. bivalvis leaf crude extracts as an active ingredient in nanocosmetics. Various solvents, including deionized water, 95% ethanol, and 1% HCl in 50% ethanol were used to macerate the plant material. These crude extracts were subsequently screened for their phytochemical constituents, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, as well as antioxidant, anti-glycation, anti-lipid peroxidative activities, and fibroblasts cytotoxicity. In addition, a nanoemulsion containing P. bivalvis crude extracts was formulated using high-speed homogenization. The formulation was characterized in terms of pH, viscosity, particle size, polydispersity index, and entrapment efficiency. Furthermore, its stability was evaluated under accelerated conditions and at different storage temperatures (room temperature, 4 °C, and 45 °C). The results indicated that P. bivalvis extracts obtained using deionized water and 95% ethanol contained various phytochemical constituents, along with higher contents of total phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant, anti-glycation, and anti-lipid peroxidative activities, as well as the lowest fibroblast cytotoxicity, compared to extracts obtained with 1% HCl in 50% ethanol. The nanoemulsions loaded with P. bivalvis ethanolic extracts exhibited a reddish-orange color, whereas those containing P. bivalvis water extracts exhibited a reddish-purple coloration, depending on its pH value. These nanoemulsions demonstrated greater stability at low temperatures, with particle sizes within the nanoscale range and a narrow polydispersity index. These findings suggest that P. bivalvis extracts obtained from deionized water and 95% ethanol are potential active ingredients that were successfully incorporated into nanoemulsion-based cosmetics formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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15 pages, 2033 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Anti-Aging Properties of the Glycopeptide- and Glycoprotein-Enriched Fraction from a Cosmetic Variation of the Longevity Medicine, Gongjin-Dan

by Gwang Jin Lee, Jiwon Park, Hyeon Jun Jeon, Tae Heon Kim, Hyejin Lee, Seongsu Kang, Seung Jin Hwang, Nam Seo Son and Nae-Gyu Kang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030091 - 1 May 2025

Abstract

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the [...] Read more.

This study deals with the extraction of active compounds for a formula (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, Ganoderma lucidum, Thymus vulgaris, and Asparagus cochinchinensis) and the evaluation of its skin anti-aging properties. This formulation was inspired by the oriental medicine Gongjin-dan (Angelica gigas, Cornus officinalis, deer antler, and musk), which has been used as a restorative drug for longevity. Enzyme-based extraction and chemical purification were used to obtain a mixed fraction (GEF) enriched in glycopeptides and glycoproteins from the five herbal materials. The chemical characteristics of GEF, including the carbohydrate groups attached to the peptides and proteins, the total carbohydrate and protein contents, and the composition of monosaccharides and amino acids were determined. The chemical characteristics that were significantly different from those of the extract, generally prepared in the same ratio, were the abundance of glycopeptides and glycoproteins and the high proportions of conditionally essential amino acids (51.0%) and acidic/basic amino acids (67.7%). These are necessary components for strengthening the skin layers against aging. The in vitro skin anti-aging properties of GEF on human fibroblasts (HS68), keratinocytes (HaCaT), and adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADMSCs) were evaluated. It was found that MMP-1 gene expression was inhibited (18–28%) and fibrillin-1 protein (23–37%) was restored contrary to the effect of UV irradiation. COL1A1 and COL4A1 gene expression (25–35%), HAS2 gene expression (22–213%), and adipogenesis (15%) were facilitated. These results demonstrate the potential of GEF as a raw material for skin anti-aging and reinforce the scientific evidence supporting a traditional medicine with a long history. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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23 pages, 6860 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetic Potential of Haberlea rhodopensis Extracts and Extracellular Vesicles in Human Fibroblast Cells

by Milena Georgieva, Bela Vasileva, Penyo Ivanov, Kamelia Hristova-Panusheva, Tsvetelina Paunova-Krasteva, Ivan Lesov, Zlatina Gospodinova, Natalia Krasteva, George Miloshev and Vasil Georgiev

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030090 - 1 May 2025

Abstract

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological [...] Read more.

Skin ageing is a complex biological process influenced by cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extracellular matrix degradation. Emerging evidence suggests that plant-derived bioactive compounds and extracellular vesicles (EVs) play a crucial role in modulating cellular homeostasis, promoting tissue regeneration, and counteracting age-related morphological and functional changes. This study investigates the impact of Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts, native and enriched with EVs, on key cellular processes, including morphology, mitochondrial dynamics, lysosomal activity, gene expression, and genotoxicity in human dermal fibroblasts. The extracellular vesicles were identified in terms of shape, size, and morphology using dynamic light scattering, negative staining and observation under a transmission electron microscope. A comprehensive in vitro analysis was conducted utilizing light microscopy to assess cellular morphology and lysosomal mass, fluorescence microscopy for actin cytoskeletal organization, mitochondrial integrity, and nuclear morphology, and gene expression profiling for markers associated with collagen synthesis (COL1A1, COL3A1), senescence (CDKN1A), and oxidative stress response (NFE2L2). Additionally, cell cycle progression was evaluated, and genotoxicity was assessed using the neutral comet assay. Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and EVs were found to preserve fibroblast morphology, enhance mitochondrial mass, and upregulate collagen-related gene expression. These effects were concentration-dependent. The extracts exhibited biocompatibility with minimal genotoxic effects, indicating their potential as safe bioactive agents for skin rejuvenation. The findings suggest that Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts and their enrichment with extracellular vesicles hold promise for cosmetic and dermatological applications, particularly in enhancing collagen production, preserving cellular integrity, and mitigating age-related alterations in skin fibroblasts. Further studies are warranted to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms and optimize formulation strategies for clinical translation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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15 pages, 3082 KiB

Open AccessArticle

New Test Methods for Extractables in No-Wipe Topcoat Gel Polish: Extraction and Quantitation of Uncured Monomers After UV Curing

by Laurisa London-Dawodu, Xuejun J. Yin and Sunan Yuvavanich

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030089 - 1 May 2025

Abstract

Background: Nail gels are decorative fingernail coatings based on (meth)acrylates that are photopolymerized on the nail surface. After polymerization, these coatings typically retain an uncured layer of monomers at the air interface due to oxygen inhibition, which may pose a risk of skin [...] Read more.

Background: Nail gels are decorative fingernail coatings based on (meth)acrylates that are photopolymerized on the nail surface. After polymerization, these coatings typically retain an uncured layer of monomers at the air interface due to oxygen inhibition, which may pose a risk of skin sensitization unless removed. No-wipe topcoats are formulated to address this issue by curing fully; however, no standard test method exists to verify a complete cure. This study presents a method to quantify residual uncured traces of several common nail gel monomers extracted from polymerized commercial no-wipe nail gels. Method: Commercially available no-wipe nail gels were formed into films of controlled thickness and polymerized using a standard UV-curing nail lamp. Solvent extraction was employed to eliminate residual uncured monomers, namely diethylene glycol dimethacrylate (DEGDMA), isobornyl acrylate (IBOA), and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA). These monomers were quantified utilizing GC-FID and HPLC techniques. Method validation was conducted with samples of known monomer identity and concentration, thereby establishing specificity, linearity, precision, and detection limits. Results: Validated test protocols were established for the analysis of residual uncured traces of three commonly used monomers in nail gel coatings. In all instances, levels of monomer residue in a cured gel coating were found to range from 56 µg/g to 800 µg/g. Tests conducted on commercial products indicated that levels of these monomers fell within the expected normal ranges for such products. Conclusions: Through the utilization of two chromatographic techniques, three analytical methods were established for the simultaneous determination of ingredient concentrations and residual monomer quantities in unreacted bulk formula and cured UV-gel film. These methods and the resultant data facilitate the evaluation of curing completeness, which is essential for product development and safety assessments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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16 pages, 4386 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of the Antioxidant Activity of Three Formulations of Hair Cosmetic Products Containing the Essential Oil of Clinopodium bolivianum (Benth.) Kuntze “inca muña”

by Raymí Celeste Obispo-Huamani, James Calva, Luis Miguel V. Félix-Veliz, Haydee Chávez, Josefa Bertha Pari-Olarte, Javier Hernán Chavez-Espinoza, Johnny Aldo Tinco-Jayo, Edwin Carlos Enciso-Roca and Oscar Herrera-Calderon

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030088 - 28 Apr 2025

Abstract

Clinopodium bolivianum (Benth.) Kuntze, commonly known as muña, inca muña or koa, has traditionally been used for its medicinal properties in digestive disorders. Some studies have revealed its antioxidant potential and antibacterial activity. This study determined the volatile components, evaluated the antioxidant capacity [...] Read more.

Clinopodium bolivianum (Benth.) Kuntze, commonly known as muña, inca muña or koa, has traditionally been used for its medicinal properties in digestive disorders. Some studies have revealed its antioxidant potential and antibacterial activity. This study determined the volatile components, evaluated the antioxidant capacity of C. bolivianum essential oil and its incorporation into three hair cosmetic formulations: shampoo, combing cream, and capillary lotion. Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC–MS) confirmed pulegone as the main component, accounting for 66.85% of the essential oil. The antioxidant activity was assessed using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays, with Trolox (6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid) as a reference compound. The essential oil exhibited significant radical scavenging activity, with IC₅₀ values of 1344.0 ± 12.23 µg/mL for DPPH and 40.125 ± 1.25 µg/mL for ABTS. Among the formulated cosmetic products, the combing cream containing 0.5% of the essential oil demonstrated the highest antioxidant activity, with IC₅₀ values of 0.72 µg/mL (DPPH) and 0.068 µg/mL (ABTS). In contrast, the shampoo and capillary lotion showed lower antioxidant potential. The stability evaluation confirmed that all formulations maintained their physicochemical properties under accelerated conditions. These findings highlight the potential application of C. bolivianum essential oil as a natural antioxidant in cosmetic formulations, contributing to its protective and functional properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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17 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

Berry Fruit Extracts as Topical Cosmeceuticals for Skin Health Applications: A Systematic Review

by Filipe Silveira Azevedo, Allan Rodrigues Pires, Mary Ann Lila, Giuseppe Valacchi, Roberta Targino Hoskin, Mariaurea Matias Sarandy, Rômulo Dias Novaes and Reggiani Vilela Goncalves

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030087 - 23 Apr 2025

Abstract

Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which [...] Read more.

Berries are a popular source of natural bioactive compounds with distinctive aspects and sensory attributes. In this review, the term “berry” refers to generally round, small, colorful, and juicy fruits with English common names ending in “berry”. They have high phenolic content, which has been linked to their health-relevant properties. To gather information on the potential of berries for treating skin inflammatory diseases, this systematic review was conducted following PRISMA guidelines (PROSPERO registration number CRD 42024549567), based on studies from PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Embase. It focused on preclinical murine model studies, with bias and methodological quality assessed using SYRCLE’s RoB tool. Studies showed evidence that berries have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties due to compounds like anthocyanins, cyanidins, polyphenols, and catechins. Berry exposure reduced oxidative stress markers, such as malondialdehyde, carbonylated proteins, nitric oxide, 8-OHdG, and pyrimidine dimers. This stress reduction was associated with NF-κB and COX-2 pathway downregulation, lower IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α, and MAPK, and increased IL-10. Morphological outcomes included increased collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans and reduced metalloproteinases. Bias analysis revealed a low risk, suggesting reliable studies. Berry treatments improved wound healing and extracellular matrix (ECM) production, supporting their potential in pharmaceutical topical formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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Graphical abstract

17 pages, 3620 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Kv1.3 Ion Channels Mediate Electrical Stimulation-Induced Collagen Expression in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

by Catherine Obiajulu, Diem Nguyen, Kim Hoang Ngan Bui, Timothy Tran, Annamarie Vu, Cortney Ngo, Ian A. Slowinski, Kazuyuki Miyazawa and Katarzyna Slowinska

Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030086 - 23 Apr 2025

Abstract

Electrical stimulation of the skin has proven effective in pain management and antibacterial treatment, particularly in wound healing and counteracting the aging processes. The latter processes rely on epidermal cell migration, increased fibroblast proliferation, and upregulation of extracellular matrix protein expression. While an [...] Read more.

Electrical stimulation of the skin has proven effective in pain management and antibacterial treatment, particularly in wound healing and counteracting the aging processes. The latter processes rely on epidermal cell migration, increased fibroblast proliferation, and upregulation of extracellular matrix protein expression. While an electrical field stimulates these processes, it is unclear how the electrical signal results in transcriptional control. Here, we postulate that the activation of voltage-gated channels, specifically voltage-gated potassium channels Kv1.3, is implicated in initiating the downstream signaling pathways that lead to increased collagen expression. We postulate that Kv1.3 and possibly calcium-activated potassium channel activity leads to the engagement of store-operated calcium channels and modulates the intracellular calcium ions distribution. In turn, changes in intracellular calcium concentration can activate calcium-generated transcriptional effectors. The Kv1.3 channel, identified via fluorescence imaging with ShK toxin (peptide), shows high-level expression in the human dermal fibroblast cell membrane. We also performed proliferation, collagen expression, and calcium imaging studies for variable electrical fields to help understand the link between the electrical stimulation, Kv1.3 channels, intracellular calcium concentration, and protein expression. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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25 pages, 9543 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Systematic Evaluation and Identification of Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Aging Ginseng Peptides for Skincare Applications

by Ze Xia, Wei Liu, Fanmo Zeng, Sining Kang, Junxiang Li, Wenfei Xu, Pingxiang Tang, Xinyi Zheng, Dandan Li, Xuebin Yang, Qing Sheng and Xuhui Li

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020085 - 21 Apr 2025

Abstract

This study explores the potential of ginseng-derived peptides (GPs) as multifunctional bioactive agents for skincare. Unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, we identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. In vitro [...] Read more.

This study explores the potential of ginseng-derived peptides (GPs) as multifunctional bioactive agents for skincare. Unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, we identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. In vitro assays revealed that ginseng peptide extract (GPE) reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α, IL-1β) in RAW264.7 macrophages while enhancing collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts (HSFs). Validation using 3D epidermal and dermal models further confirmed GPE’s ability to mitigate UV-induced damage, restore skin barrier proteins (filaggrin, loricrin), and increase collagen content. In addition, we screened 19 candidate peptides from ginseng extract using machine learning and prioritized their interaction with skin aging and inflammation-related targets. Three peptides (QEGIYPNNDLYRPK, VDCPTDDATDDYRLK, and ADEVVHHPLDKSSEVE) demonstrated significant collagen-promoting, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects in cellular models. These findings highlight the efficacy of computational approaches in identifying natural bioactive ingredients, positioning ginseng peptides as promising candidates for innovative cosmeceutical formulations targeting inflammaging and skin rejuvenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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10 pages, 1099 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Effects of Shampoo Containing Plantago asiatica L. on Hair Thickness, Density, and Shedding: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

by Jiyeon Lee, Ah-Reum Jung, Jun-Hwan Jang, Jun-Tae Bae and Wanil Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020084 - 17 Apr 2025

Abstract

This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated the efficacy of a shampoo containing Plantago asiatica L. on hair health in adults aged 20–60. Following a 4-week wash-out period, participants used either the test shampoo or a placebo for 12 weeks. Hair measurements using [...] Read more.

This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated the efficacy of a shampoo containing Plantago asiatica L. on hair health in adults aged 20–60. Following a 4-week wash-out period, participants used either the test shampoo or a placebo for 12 weeks. Hair measurements using phototrichograms and hair count tests were conducted at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, and 12. The test group demonstrated progressive improvements in hair strand thickness (0.009 mm, 0.017 mm, and 0.020 mm at weeks 4, 8, and 12, respectively) and hair density (0.9 hairs/cm² at weeks 4 and 8, 1.1 hairs/cm² at week 12). Additionally, a significant reduction in hair shedding was observed compared to the placebo group. These findings suggest that shampoo containing Plantago asiatica L. effectively improves hair thickness and density while reducing hair loss, offering a natural solution for hair care concerns. Full article

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17 pages, 6585 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Investigation of the Anti-Aging Effects of Composite Nanocarriers Based on Autophagy Regulation and Oxidative Stress Inhibition

by Min Liu, Lei Ye, Lingling Jiang, Xi Wang, Cui Sun, Jiuyan Zheng and Wei Liu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020083 - 17 Apr 2025

Abstract

Focusing on the anti-aging mechanism and efficient utilization of anti-aging active ingredients in the skin is an excellent strategy to mitigate aging. In this study, ribose/collagen/decarboxylated carnitine hydrochloride/palmitoyl tripeptide-1 composite nanocarriers (RCDP NCs) were synthesized using transdermal drug delivery nanotechnology. The drug delivery [...] Read more.

Focusing on the anti-aging mechanism and efficient utilization of anti-aging active ingredients in the skin is an excellent strategy to mitigate aging. In this study, ribose/collagen/decarboxylated carnitine hydrochloride/palmitoyl tripeptide-1 composite nanocarriers (RCDP NCs) were synthesized using transdermal drug delivery nanotechnology. The drug delivery of composite nanocarriers and the anti-aging mechanism of RCDP NCs were studied through transdermal behavior, cell uptake, cell proliferation, antioxidant enzyme activity, lipid oxidation product expression, β—galactosidase content, autophagy vesicle number, autophagy-related protein expression, and other indicators. The results showed that the composite nanocarriers on the skin could reach a dermal depth of 460.0 μm (4 h). The uptake of RCDP NCs by keratinocytes and fibroblasts increased by 47.37% and 89.11% (4 h), respectively. RCDP NCs promoted cell proliferation, enhanced the activities of the main antioxidant enzymes, and reduced the production of the lipid oxidation product malondialdehyde (MDA). Sequestosome-1 protein (p62) decreased, whereas both the ratio of microtubule-associated protein light chain 3 II/microtubule-associated protein light chain 3 I (LC3II/LC3I) and the number of autophagosomes increased, indicating that RCDP NCs promoted autophagy. The drug delivery nanotechnology in this study achieved better transdermal application of active ingredients, which could mitigate skin aging faster and more effectively. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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15 pages, 2115 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Hair Detangling Evaluation Method Using Section Detangling Rate

by Sang-Hun Song and Seong Kil Son

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020082 - 16 Apr 2025

Abstract

This study was conducted to objectively evaluate the degree of detangling needed to develop the effectiveness of cosmetic hair ingredients to prevent hair tangles. To evaluate the degree of hair tangling, the frictional force applied when combing the hair was measured. The tooth [...] Read more.

This study was conducted to objectively evaluate the degree of detangling needed to develop the effectiveness of cosmetic hair ingredients to prevent hair tangles. To evaluate the degree of hair tangling, the frictional force applied when combing the hair was measured. The tooth spacing of the comb used in the evaluation was examined, and it was confirmed that the 4 mm interval comb was suitable as there was a large difference in combability between different treatments and the deviation was small. To create samples to standardize hair tangles, spinning 25 cm or more of wet hair on a spinner for 5 min was found to be best for observing differences between treatments. In the case of hair shorter than 25 cm, tangles did not occur even when spun using a tool, but a suitable sample for evaluating tangles was obtained by rubbing the hair by hand about 15 times. When testing combability, the distance the comb moves until it reaches 9.8 N is considered to be proportional to the detangling efficacy, and the degree of tangling is evaluated based on the section detangling rate, which is the distance the comb travels to reach 9.8 N divided by the total tress length. As a result of evaluating the contact angle of tangled hair using an atomic force microscope (AFM) and a scanning electron microscope (SEM), it was found that the contact angle of the cuticle surface for the tangled part was larger than that of the straight part and the cuticle was damaged. After immersing tangled hair in rice bran extract containing six OH groups, the contact angle changed from 103° to 95°, which is the level of the straight part, and an increase in the section detangling rate of the hair was observed. As a result, it was suggested that the detangling efficacy could be evaluated by applying this evaluation method using the section detangling rate. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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14 pages, 579 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Potential of Essential Oil from Siparuna guianensis A. DC. (Siparunaceae) as an Antimicrobial Adjuvant in Topical Formulations

by Érica Luiz dos Santos, Juliana Mendes Franco Siqueira, Genilson da Silva de Jesus, Ana Camila Micheletti and Nídia Cristiane Yoshida

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020081 - 15 Apr 2025

Abstract

Essential oils have enormous versatility as sources of natural fragrances and as active agents in the cosmetic industry. Therefore, the chemical composition and antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of the essential oil from the fresh leaves of Siparuna guianensis A. DC. for cosmetic purposes [...] Read more.

Essential oils have enormous versatility as sources of natural fragrances and as active agents in the cosmetic industry. Therefore, the chemical composition and antimicrobial and antioxidant activities of the essential oil from the fresh leaves of Siparuna guianensis A. DC. for cosmetic purposes were analyzed. The GC/MS technique was used to analyze the essential oil and the major constituents found were the sesquiterpenes bicyclogermacrene (32.52%), germacrene D (21.60%), and germacrene B (6.84%) and the monoterpene myrcene (3.66%). The antioxidant activity of the essential oil was evaluated using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical sequestering method and the assay based on the oxidation of 2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS). The antioxidant potential of the essential oil was not evidenced in both tests. In vitro tests showed that the studied essential oil, when combined with the antibiotic ampicillin, demonstrated a synergistic effect against clinically resistant Staphylococcus aureus and XDR S. epidermidis strains and an additive effect against S. pseudointermedius and MDR S. epidermidis. On the other hand, the combination of essential oil with gentamicin resulted in synergism when tested against S. epidermidis and an additive effect when evaluated against XDR S. epidermidis. Topical products formulated on the basis of these results exhibited activity against resistant S. epidermidis, demonstrating that the essential oil can act as a valuable ingredient to restore the efficacy of antibiotics against multidrug-resistant bacteria, in addition to improving the olfactory characteristics of the final product. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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17 pages, 11922 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessing Skin Photoprotection in the Infrared Range: The Reflectance Profiles of Cold-Pressed Plant Oils

by Elżbieta Mickoś, Monika Michalak, Magdalena Hartman-Petrycka, Anna Banyś, Paula Babczyńska, Robert Koprowski and Sławomir Wilczyński

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020080 - 14 Apr 2025

Abstract

The harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin are known and scientifically proven, with recent studies indicating that not only ultraviolet (UV) radiation but also infrared (IR) radiation contributes to skin photoaging and increases the risk of carcinogenesis. Infrared radiation is also [...] Read more.

The harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin are known and scientifically proven, with recent studies indicating that not only ultraviolet (UV) radiation but also infrared (IR) radiation contributes to skin photoaging and increases the risk of carcinogenesis. Infrared radiation is also responsible for the degradation of protective carotenoids in the skin, the disruption of calcium homeostasis, and the activation of apoptosis pathways. The biological mechanisms underlying these effects include an increased level of reactive oxygen species and increased expression of metalloproteinases in the skin. The aim of this study was to evaluate the photoprotective properties of 10 cold-pressed plant oils in the infrared spectral range from 1000 nm to 2500 nm by assessing their impact on the directional–hemispherical reflectance (DHR) of human skin after their topical application. This study was conducted in vivo on the skin of 12 volunteers, with non-invasive DHR measurements taken before and directly after the application of the oil and 30 min later. Additionally, the correlation between the oil’s compounds (chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, lycopene, and β-carotene) and antioxidant activity, expressed as the DPPH free radical scavenging capacity, was analyzed in relation to the differences in the skin’s DHR observed. An interesting result was obtained in the context of protecting the skin against IR radiation. A statistically significant increase in the skin’s reflectance after the penetration of the oil (p < 0.05) was observed in the 1700–2500 nm range for the chokeberry, fig, pomegranate, and perilla oils, suggesting their potential as photoprotective agents against IR. These findings indicate that chokeberry, fig, pomegranate, and perilla oils may serve as ingredients in cosmetic formulations designed for broad-spectrum skin photoprotection, complementing traditional UV filters with additional protection against infrared radiation. However, further research is needed to confirm these findings in a larger population. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 1258 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Oral Intake of Specific Bovine-Derived Bioactive Collagen Peptides Has a Stimulatory Effect on Dermal Matrix Synthesis and Improves Various Clinical Skin Parameters

by Ehrhardt Proksch, Denise Zdzieblik and Steffen Oesser

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020079 - 14 Apr 2025

Abstract

Collagen products are widely marketed for skin improvement. This study evaluated the efficacy of VERISOL B in relation to key skin aging parameters. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 66 women (aged 35–55) were randomized to receive either 2.5 g of bovine-derived bioactive collagen [...] Read more.

Collagen products are widely marketed for skin improvement. This study evaluated the efficacy of VERISOL B in relation to key skin aging parameters. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 66 women (aged 35–55) were randomized to receive either 2.5 g of bovine-derived bioactive collagen peptides (SCPs) (n = 33) or a placebo (n = 33) daily for 8 weeks. Their eye wrinkle volume, skin elasticity, and hydration were objectively measured at baseline (X₀), 4 weeks (X₄), and 8 weeks (X₈). Additionally, the SCPs’ impact on type I collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan biosynthesis was assessed in human dermal fibroblasts. The SCP supplementation significantly (p < 0.05) reduced their eye wrinkle volume and improved their skin elasticity and hydration within 4 weeks. After 8 weeks of treatment, the positive effects were even more pronounced for all of the clinical parameters measured (p < 0.05). The fibroblast experiments confirmed the SCPs’ stimulatory impact on dermal metabolism (p < 0.05). In conclusion, oral SCP supplementation effectively reduced wrinkles and enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, likely by promoting extracellular matrix biosynthesis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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28 pages, 12955 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Functional Performance and Safety Evaluation of Optimized Plant-Based Dye Mixtures for Intense Hair Coloration

by Kodpaka Lueadnakrob, Saranya Juntrapirom, Thitiphorn Rongthong, Watchara Kanjanakawinkul and Wantida Chaiyana

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020078 - 14 Apr 2025

Abstract

This study aimed to develop a sustainable and safe alternative to chemical hair dyes by exploring the functional performance and safety evaluation of herbal mixtures. Natural dyes were extracted from Lawsonia inermis leaves, Clitoria ternatea flowers, and Indigofera tinctoria leaves using an eco-friendly [...] Read more.

This study aimed to develop a sustainable and safe alternative to chemical hair dyes by exploring the functional performance and safety evaluation of herbal mixtures. Natural dyes were extracted from Lawsonia inermis leaves, Clitoria ternatea flowers, and Indigofera tinctoria leaves using an eco-friendly extraction method with deionized water and ultrasonication. The ratios of these natural dyes were optimized using statistical tools, specifically Minitab, to determine the most effective formulation. The safety profiles and dyeing performance of individual dyes and their combinations were evaluated with a focus on color intensity, stability, and resistance to washing and light exposure. The optimal herbal mixture, with a ratio of 2:2:1:1 (L. inermis/C. ternatea/I. tinctoria/water), demonstrated the highest absorbance and lowest lightness, indicating the darkest color profile. When applied for 30 min, this herbal combination yielded a long-lasting and intense dark color. Further testing using the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test confirmed the favorable safety profile, and examination under a scanning electron microscope showed no damage to the hair cuticle, indicating that the herbal formulation is safer than chemical hair dyes. Therefore, this herbal mixture showed promise as an alternative to synthetic dyes, and further formulation development was suggested. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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