Cosmetics

27 pages, 6013 KB

Open AccessArticle

Spider Silk-Inspired SVX Biopolymer: A Novel Haircare Technology for Superior Color Retention, Heat Protection, and Hydration

by Konstantin Press, Ella Sklan, Miriam Gubelbank, Ali Abu Znaid and Shlomzion Shen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 257; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060257 - 14 Nov 2025

Abstract

This study presents a novel application of SVX, a recombinant spider silk-inspired biopolymer, for advanced haircare formulations, designed to protect bleached and color-treated hair. Two SVX-based treatments—a multifunctional leave-on serum and a post-color booster—were developed to address key challenges: color fading, heat damage, [...] Read more.

This study presents a novel application of SVX, a recombinant spider silk-inspired biopolymer, for advanced haircare formulations, designed to protect bleached and color-treated hair. Two SVX-based treatments—a multifunctional leave-on serum and a post-color booster—were developed to address key challenges: color fading, heat damage, and moisture loss. Under simulated oxidative, thermal, and environmental stress conditions, SVX formulations demonstrated significantly improved performance compared to benchmark products. SVX-treated hair exhibited a substantial reduction in color change (ΔE reduced from 5.2 ± 1.1 to 2.1 ± 0.6), retained mechanical strength after intense heat exposure (>90% tensile strength vs. 64% in controls), and showed a marked increase in hydration (>84% moisture retention vs. 56% in untreated hair). The booster treatment further enhanced cuticle sealing and post-color recovery without altering dye intensity. SVX forms a protective, proteinaceous network on the hair surface, reinforcing the fiber structure and maintaining moisture. Its sustainable, biodegradable, and vegan profile supports its use in next-generation cosmetic innovations. These results position SVX as a powerful, multifunctional ingredient for high-performance and eco-conscious haircare applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

17 pages, 2660 KB

Open AccessArticle

POLEVAN^®—A Multifunctional Natural Hair Ingredient, as Determined by In-Vitro and Human Studies

by Eli Budman, Camelia Goren, Yuval Sagiv and Alain Khaiat

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 256; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060256 - 12 Nov 2025

Abstract

Natural shampoos are increasingly designed to provide multifunctional benefits beyond cleansing, including hair conditioning, scalp protection, and reduced irritation potential. POLEVAN^®, a proprietary levan-based polysaccharide produced enzymatically from sugar, offers a combination of oligo- and polysaccharide fractions with potential cosmetic applications. [...] Read more.

Natural shampoos are increasingly designed to provide multifunctional benefits beyond cleansing, including hair conditioning, scalp protection, and reduced irritation potential. POLEVAN^®, a proprietary levan-based polysaccharide produced enzymatically from sugar, offers a combination of oligo- and polysaccharide fractions with potential cosmetic applications. This study evaluated POLEVAN^® in shampoo formulations for three targeted effects: improving hair glossiness, enhancing scalp moisturization, and boosting foam while enabling reduced surfactant levels. Glossiness was assessed ex vivo using damaged hair tresses. Moisturization was assessed in a randomized clinical trial, comparing the test formulation with hyaluronic acid (HA), employing corneometer readings and Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements. The study was subject-blinded, and all outcomes were determined solely through quantitative, device-based measurements, minimizing observer bias. Foaming performance was tested using the Shaking Cylinder Method. Shampoos containing 2% POLEVAN^® significantly increased hair glossiness by 24% (p = 0.0375) versus a non-significant increase without POLEVAN^®. Moisturization studies showed no significant difference between POLEVAN^® and HA in maintaining hydration or preventing TEWL over 4 weeks. Foam analysis demonstrated that addition of POLEVAN^® allowed up to 50% reduction in surfactant content without compromising foam generation or stability. These results highlight POLEVAN^® as a multifunctional natural ingredient capable of improving sensory and performance attributes of shampoos while supporting gentler formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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26 pages, 2469 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of a Multifunctional Phytocosmetic Nanoemulsion Containing Achillea millefolium: A Sustainable Approach

by Thais Silva Christiani, Luciana Pereira Rangel, Andressa Souto Ramalho Soares, Anne Caroline Candido Gomes, Ariely Costa dos Santos, Mariana Sato S. B. Monteiro, Naomi Kato Simas and Eduardo Ricci-Junior

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 255; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060255 - 11 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin aging, including photoaging, is primarily triggered by chronic exposure to solar radiation, which induces free radical formation, cellular deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage, and structural skin alterations. Achillea millefolium L. (Asteraceae) is rich in phenolic compounds and alkamides, substances known for their antioxidant [...] Read more.

Skin aging, including photoaging, is primarily triggered by chronic exposure to solar radiation, which induces free radical formation, cellular deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage, and structural skin alterations. Achillea millefolium L. (Asteraceae) is rich in phenolic compounds and alkamides, substances known for their antioxidant activity. This study aimed to develop and characterize a photoprotective phytocosmetic nanoemulsion containing crude root extract of A. millefolium. The extract exhibited a total phenolic content of 3.067 ± 1.911 µg GAE/mL, potent antioxidant activity (EC₅₀ = 69.11 ± 8.899 µg/mL), moderate tyrosinase inhibition (19 ± 1.8%), and no cytotoxicity in keratinocytes. The extract was incorporated into nanoemulsions at concentrations of 0.1%, 0.5%, and 1%. The resulting droplets showed mean diameters of 217 to 230 nm, with a significant increase in the polydispersity index (PDI) after extract addition (p < 0.05). Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) confirmed the spherical morphology of the droplets. The in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) was 14 ± 0.9 in the control formulation and increased to 15 ± 2.0 (0.1%), 22 ± 5.2 (0.5%), and 17 ± 1.0 (1%), suggesting a synergistic effect between the extract and chemical filters. All formulations demonstrated UVA/UVB ratio > 0.6, a pH near to 5, occlusive properties, and good spreadability. The results indicate that A. millefolium extract holds potential for safe photoprotective formulations, offering a valuable antioxidant and depigmenting activity in addition to enhancing the SPF. This position is an innovative alternative to phytocosmetic development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advances in the Development of Sustainable Cosmetic Products With Nanotechnology)

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17 pages, 819 KB

Open AccessReview

A Decade of Autologous Micrografting Technology in Hair Restoration: A Review of Clinical Evidence and the Evolving Landscape of Regenerative Treatments

by Vera Wang, Antonella Tosti, Antoniya Ivanova, Marta Huertas and Colombina Vincenzi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 254; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060254 - 11 Nov 2025

Abstract

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent, multifactorial hair disorder affecting a substantial portion of both males and females, with significant psychosocial consequences. Over the past decade, regenerative medicine has reshaped AGA treatment, offering biologically driven alternatives to conventional pharmacological and surgical therapies. Among [...] Read more.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent, multifactorial hair disorder affecting a substantial portion of both males and females, with significant psychosocial consequences. Over the past decade, regenerative medicine has reshaped AGA treatment, offering biologically driven alternatives to conventional pharmacological and surgical therapies. Among these, Autologous Micrografting Technology (AMT) (Regenera Activa^® by Rigenera^® Technology, Barcelona, Spain) emerged 10 years ago as a notable innovation leveraging the body’s intrinsic regenerative potential through micrografts derived from a healthy scalp tissue. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the pathophysiology of AGA—including genetic, hormonal, and inflammatory contributors—and evaluates the clinical efficacy, safety, and mechanistic basis of AMT in comparison with other regenerative strategies such as platelet-rich plasma, adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells, and exosome-based treatments. Clinical studies demonstrate that AMT yields significant short-term improvements in hair density and thickness with favorable safety outcomes. Moreover, advancements in device technology and treatment protocols have enhanced consistency and reproducibility. As multimodal and personalized approaches gain traction in hair restoration, AMT is a minimally invasive point-of-care procedure within the evolving regenerative landscape. Future studies are warranted to optimize treatment algorithms, extend follow-up data, better define patient selection criteria for maximizing outcomes with AMT, and expand the indication of autologous micrografting technology. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2670 KB

Open AccessArticle

Centella asiatica L. Urb. Extracellular Vesicle and Growth Factor Essence for Hair and Scalp Health: A 56-Day Exploratory Randomized Trial

by Tsong-Min Chang, Chung-Chin Wu, Huey-Chun Huang, Ji-Ying Lu, Ching-Hua Chuang, Pei-Lun Kao, Wei-Hsuan Tang, Wang-Ju Hsieh, Luke Tzu-Chi Liu, Wei-Yin Qiu, Ivona Percec, Charles Chen and Tsun-Yung Kuo

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 253; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060253 - 10 Nov 2025

Abstract

Hair loss and scalp dysfunction are prevalent concerns with limited non-medicinal long-term solutions. Growth factors and plant-derived extracellular vesicle (EV) represent promising regenerative approaches. In this exploratory randomized controlled trial, 60 healthy adults (18–60 years) were randomly assigned into five groups: (A) placebo; [...] Read more.

Hair loss and scalp dysfunction are prevalent concerns with limited non-medicinal long-term solutions. Growth factors and plant-derived extracellular vesicle (EV) represent promising regenerative approaches. In this exploratory randomized controlled trial, 60 healthy adults (18–60 years) were randomly assigned into five groups: (A) placebo; (B) base formula with 0.1% caffeine and panthenol; (C) base + recombinant Fc-fusion long-acting insulin-like growth factor-1 (rIGF-1) and fibroblast growth factor-7 (rFGF-7); (D) base + Centella asiatica (C. asiatica) EV; and (E) base + rIGF-1, rFGF-7, and C. asiatica EV. Participants applied their assigned product once daily for 56 days. Scalp and hair parameters, including sebum content, hair length, thickness, density, and hair loss, were assessed at baseline and Days 14, 28, 42, and 56. The combination of C. asiatica EV with rIGF-1 and rFGF-7 (Group E) showed the greatest improvements across all endpoints, including significant increases in hair thickness, density, and length, and a reduction in sebum content and hair loss by Day 56 compared with placebo. The results support further study of topical use of C. asiatica-derived EV with recombinant long-acting growth factors as a novel, naturally derived, cosmetic intervention for scalp and hair care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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52 pages, 989 KB

Open AccessReview

Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles in Cosmetics: Building a Framework for Safety, Efficacy, and Quality

by Letizia Ferroni and Barbara Zavan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 252; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060252 - 10 Nov 2025

Abstract

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, [...] Read more.

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, consumer safety, and scientific credibility. Here, a comprehensive set of minimal characterization guidelines for PDEVs is proposed to include physical and chemical profiling, molecular marker identification, cargo analysis, and stability assessment under storage and formulation conditions. Functional validation through cellular uptake assays, activity tests, and advanced in vitro or ex vivo models that replicate realistic skin exposure scenarios is pivotal. Requirements for transparent labelling, reproducible sourcing, batch-to-batch consistency, and biological activity substantiation to support claims related to skin regeneration, anti-aging, and microbiome modulation are also required. By establishing a harmonized baseline for quality and efficacy evaluation, these guidelines aim to elevate the scientific standards and promote the safe, ethical, and effective use of PDEV-based ingredients in cosmetic and biomedical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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13 pages, 2264 KB

Open AccessArticle

Fractional CO₂ Laser 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine Drug Delivery for Melasma and Facial Hyperpigmentation: A Real-Observational World Experience

by Annunziata Dattola, Emanuele Amore, Simone Amato, Steven Paul Nisticò and Giovanni Pellacani

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 251; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060251 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Melasma and facial hyperpigmentation are common dermatologic conditions that significantly impact patients’ quality of life. New approaches such as laser-assisted delivery of topical agents have been proposed to enhance treatment outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the comparative effectiveness of fractional CO₂ laser-assisted [...] Read more.

Background: Melasma and facial hyperpigmentation are common dermatologic conditions that significantly impact patients’ quality of life. New approaches such as laser-assisted delivery of topical agents have been proposed to enhance treatment outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the comparative effectiveness of fractional CO₂ laser-assisted delivery of 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) versus topical 2-MNG alone in a real-world clinical setting. Methods: Fourteen female patients with mild-to-moderate melasma or hyperpigmentation were enrolled, and eleven completed the 16-week study. Participants were allocated to either the laser +2-MNG group (n = 6) or topical 2-MNG only group (n = 5). Assessments were performed at baseline and every four weeks using VISIA CR^® imaging (visible, UV, and brown spots), Modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), and Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI). Results: Both groups showed significant improvement in visible spots, brown spots, mMASI, and DLQI scores. The laser group showed earlier improvement, with significant changes starting at week 8, while the control group reached significance at week 12. No significant change in UV spot scores was observed. Conclusion: Both approaches were effective in reducing clinically visible pigmentation and improving quality of life. Fractional CO₂ laser-assisted delivery offered a faster onset of efficacy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2377 KB

Open AccessArticle

Multifunctional Effects of N-Carbamylglutamate on Skin-Related Cells: Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Activities

by Sa Rang Choi, Nu Ri Song, Seo Yeon Shin, Ki Min Kim, Jae Hee Byun, Seon Ju Kim, Dai Hyun Jung, Su Jung Kim and Kyung Mok Park

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 250; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060250 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore [...] Read more.

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore its suitability as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, this study examines the protective role of NCG in counteracting UV-stimulated oxidative and inflammatory responses in skin cells. NCG significantly reduced UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), indicating strong antioxidant properties. It also inhibited matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity, preserving collagen integrity and reducing wrinkle formation. In addition, NCG suppressed nitric oxide (NO) production and downregulated key inflammatory mediators—including cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin-6 (IL-6)—highlighting its anti-inflammatory potential. Furthermore, NCG reduced melanin production and the expression of melanogenesis-related factors such as the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. These findings support the role of NCG as a promising multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and skin-brightening properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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23 pages, 4391 KB

Open AccessArticle

Rice Germ Oil and Ferulic Acid Effects on Hair

by Marisanna Centini, Giulia Signori, Fabrizio Francescon, Fumi Tsuno, Tomoki Oguro and Cecilia Anselmi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 249; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060249 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Hair can be significantly damaged following exposure to environmental agents and physical and chemical treatments. The aim of this study concerned the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy of a hair mask containing two rice derivatives: rice germ oil GX-N and ferulic [...] Read more.

Hair can be significantly damaged following exposure to environmental agents and physical and chemical treatments. The aim of this study concerned the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy of a hair mask containing two rice derivatives: rice germ oil GX-N and ferulic acid. This evaluation was performed on hair damaged by bleaching, UV irradiation, and heat treatment by applying the following techniques: FT-IR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy), a stress–strain test, polarized light microscopy analysis, and protein loss determination. The application of the masks highlighted an improvement in the characteristics of the hair. Rice germ oil GX-N showed very interesting and protective properties in all the treatments; however, the inclusion of a low concentration of ferulic acid did not provide additional benefits. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 2286 KB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Characterization of Cosmetic Creams Based on Natural Oils from the Rosaceae Family

by Katya Hutova, Velichka Andonova, Natalina Panova, Ivan Ivanov, Krastena Nikolova and Viliana Gugleva

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 248; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060248 - 6 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Creams are one of the most used cosmetic formulations due to their hydrating and restoring properties, pleasant texture, and the possibility to deliver hydrophobic and hydrophilic active ingredients. The study aims to develop and characterize cosmetic creams based on natural-sourced ingredients—different vegetable [...] Read more.

Background: Creams are one of the most used cosmetic formulations due to their hydrating and restoring properties, pleasant texture, and the possibility to deliver hydrophobic and hydrophilic active ingredients. The study aims to develop and characterize cosmetic creams based on natural-sourced ingredients—different vegetable oils from the Rosacea family: (1) Chaenomelis japonica seed oil, (2) Rosa canina seed oil, (3) Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, alone and in combination (4), along with silk protein (sericin) and astaxanthin. Methods: The creams were prepared by the hot homogenization method and were characterized in terms of rheological properties, spreadability, and antioxidant activity. Results: Two suitable formulations were selected as feasible for cosmetic application—the model containing Chaenomelis japonica seed oil exhibiting the highest antioxidant activity (47% higher vs. the model based on rosehip oil by FRAP method) and the highest spreadability values among the tested formulations (ranging between 61.57 and 69.34 mm). The second selected optimal formulation is the model based on a combination of oils characterized by the most suitable consistency and high antioxidant activity. Conclusions: The differences in their rheological behavior suggest as feasible application of Japanese quince oil cream its use as a daycare antioxidant cream, whereas the mixed oils-based cream model may potentially serve as a night cream for restorative and antioxidant care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 369 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy of Needle and Microneedle Mesotherapy in Reducing Signs of Skin Aging—A Split-Face Comparative Study

by Agnieszka Surgiel-Gemza, Beata Mysiak and Julita Zdrada-Nowak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 247; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060247 - 6 Nov 2025

Abstract

Introduction: Major manifestations of facial skin aging include the loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles, and various pigmentary changes. Mesotherapy—both needle and microneedle-based—is a commonly chosen procedure that effectively revitalizes and stimulates the skin. The aim of this study was [...] Read more.

Introduction: Major manifestations of facial skin aging include the loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles, and various pigmentary changes. Mesotherapy—both needle and microneedle-based—is a commonly chosen procedure that effectively revitalizes and stimulates the skin. The aim of this study was to compare the effectiveness of both techniques in reducing the signs of skin aging using a product containing fragmented hyaluronic acid and an amino acid complex. Materials and Methods: The study included 20 female participants aged 35–60 years who underwent a series of four treatment sessions in a split-face design. One side of the face was treated with needle mesotherapy, while the other side received microneedle mesotherapy. In each session, 5 mL of a preparation containing fragmented hyaluronic acid, glutathione, stabilized vitamin C, and an amino acid complex was administered. Skin parameters (hydration, pH, sebum level, erythema, and pigmentation), photographic documentation, participants’ subjective evaluations, and pain scores were assessed. Results: Both techniques led to significant improvements in skin condition. Microneedle mesotherapy was more effective in enhancing hydration, regulating sebum and pH, and was better tolerated in terms of pain. Needle mesotherapy demonstrated greater efficacy in reducing pigmentation. Patient satisfaction was high in both groups. Conclusions: Both needle and microneedle mesotherapy are effective treatments for aging skin, although their mechanisms of action differ. The choice of technique should be tailored to the individual needs of the skin and the expectations of the patient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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32 pages, 5730 KB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Aging and Wound Healing Activity of Cashew Apple (Anacardium occidentale) Extract and Its Liposomal Development to Enhance Skin Permeability and Ascorbic Acid Stability

by Narumon Changsan, Apichart Atipairin, Poowadon Muenraya, Pajaree Sakdiset, Titpawan Nakpheng, Teerapol Srichana, Rutthapol Sritharadol, Neelam Balekar, Wirot Chanthorn, Nawattakorn Nualsri, Mapasawan Lewviriyakun and Somchai Sawatdee

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 246; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060246 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

The cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.) is rich in antioxidant bioactive constituents that have anti-aging and wound healing properties. The objective of this study is to evaluate the biological activities of cashew apple extract (CAE) and to improve the issue involving the [...] Read more.

The cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.) is rich in antioxidant bioactive constituents that have anti-aging and wound healing properties. The objective of this study is to evaluate the biological activities of cashew apple extract (CAE) and to improve the issue involving the instability of ascorbic acid, the principal active compound, by encapsulating the extract in liposomes in order to enhance its stability and skin permeation for cosmetic applications. CAE was obtained from fresh cashew apple via ethanol maceration, solvent evaporation, and freeze-drying. Ascorbic acid content, total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and total caffeoylquinic acid content (TCQAC) were determined. The ascorbic acid content and its tautomer in the extract were quantified using the LC-MS/MS method. Biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, fibroblast collagen synthesis, cytoprotection against oxidative stress, wound healing, and cytotoxicity, were assessed. CAE was encapsulated in liposomes to enhance the stability of its inherent ascorbic acid and improve its skin in comparison to free-CAE. The CAE and liposomal-CAE were incorporated and formulated into a solution, and their physicochemical stability was assessed after storage. CAE appeared as a brown, viscous liquid with a characteristic sweet, fruity scent. Each gram of CAE contained 0.90 ± 0.05 mg of ascorbic acid, TPC, 81.40 ± 7.14 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE), TFC, 3.73 ± 0.30 mg of rutin equivalents (RE), and TCQAC, 4.48 ± 0.05 mg of chlorogenic acid equivalents (CGAE). CAE exhibited antioxidant properties (IC₅₀ = 282.19 ± 11.16 and 963.66 ± 3.95 µg/mL for DPPH and ABTS assay, respectively) and weak anti-tyrosinase activity (IC₅₀ = 4213.77 ± 138.97 µg/mL). It was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast and monocyte cells at a concentration of less than 1 mg/mL. In vitro wound healing assays demonstrated that CAE stimulated collagen production in a dose-dependent manner at CAE concentrations above 250 µg/mL. Additionally, CAE exhibited cytoprotective effects against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress and did not induce inflammatory responses in immune cells. The liposomal formulation containing CAE achieved high encapsulation efficiency (79.75–84.55%) based on ascorbic acid content. In skin permeation studies, CAE-loaded liposomes demonstrated an enhancement ratio approximately two-fold greater than that of free-CAE. Stability testing over 3 months showed that the ascorbic acid content in CAE-loaded liposomes remained significantly higher than that in the free-CAE under both refrigerated and long-term conditions (30 °C/75% RH). CAE demonstrated potential anti-aging properties for improving aging skin. Liposomal incorporation markedly improved ascorbic acid stability and skin permeability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)

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18 pages, 2342 KB

Open AccessArticle

Total Flavonoid Extraction from Baihao Yinzhen Utilizing Ultrasound-Assisted Deep Eutectic Solvent: Optimization of Conditions, Anti-Inflammatory, and Molecular Docking Analysis

by Ziqi Zhang, Yan Chu, Wanting Huang, Huan Chen, Shengbao Hong, Dingfeng Kong and Liyong Du

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 245; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060245 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Despite extensive phytochemical research on white tea varieties, flavonoid profiling in Baihao Yinzhen remains scarce. The development of green and efficient extraction methods is essential to facilitate its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Methods: A deep eutectic solvent-based ultrasound-assisted extraction (DES-UAE) was [...] Read more.

Background: Despite extensive phytochemical research on white tea varieties, flavonoid profiling in Baihao Yinzhen remains scarce. The development of green and efficient extraction methods is essential to facilitate its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Methods: A deep eutectic solvent-based ultrasound-assisted extraction (DES-UAE) was developed for Baihao Yinzhen flavonoids. After screening of 14 DESs and optimizing the conditions via single-factor and response surface methodology, the extracts were analyzed by UPLC-MS. Anti-inflammatory activity was assessed in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells by measuring TNF-α and IL-6 levels, with molecular docking simulating flavonoid–cytokine interactions; Results: Among 14 tested deep eutectic solvents, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin/lactic acid (HP-β-CD/La) was identified as the most effective solvent for flavonoid extraction. Under optimized conditions (HBD/HBA mass ratio 3:1, temperature 60 °C, water content 40%, solid–liquid ratio 1:19, extraction time 62 min), the maximum flavonoid yield reached 108.72 mg RE/g DW. The DES extract (2.5 μg/mL) significantly suppressed TNF-α and IL-6 secretion in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells compared to the water extract. UPLC-MS identified five major flavonoid glycosides, and molecular docking revealed their strong binding affinities with TNF-α and IL-6 proteins. Conclusions: DES-UAE provides an efficient green method for flavonoid extraction. The extract demonstrates significant anti-inflammatory activity, supporting its potential as a natural cosmetic ingredient. This study aimed to develop an efficient and green DES-UAE method for the extraction of flavonoids from Baihao Yinzhen, in order to evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of the extract and to explore the potential interaction mechanisms of key flavonoids with inflammatory targets via molecular docking. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 451 KB

Open AccessReview

Cyclodextrin Applications in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review

by Irene Conesa, Francisco José Vidal-Sánchez, Silvia Navarro-Orcajada, Carolina Abril-Sánchez, Adrián Matencio and José Manuel López-Nicolás

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 244; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060244 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving to create new formulations that offer controlled and specific release of active ingredients, as well as greater penetration, duration and stability of the resulting products. To fulfil all these objectives, the use of cyclodextrins in different cosmetic [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving to create new formulations that offer controlled and specific release of active ingredients, as well as greater penetration, duration and stability of the resulting products. To fulfil all these objectives, the use of cyclodextrins in different cosmetic formulations is being considered. CDs are cyclic oligosaccharides with a hydrophilic outer surface and an inner cavity able to encapsulate hydrophobic molecules. This property can be used to form complexes with hydrophobic molecules and solubilise them in aqueous matrices, such as creams or gels. This review analyses the main advantages that these agents provide in cosmetic products, such as protection, administration and controlled release of bioactive ingredients, improved water solubility, reduced fragrance volatility, masking off unpleasant odours, modification of the physicochemical properties of formulations or prevention of ingredient side effects, among others. Formulations of lotions, sunscreens, deodorants, gels or perfumes containing CDs are already on the market, and new ones are being developed. Moreover, the regulations concerning their use, the types of cyclodextrins allowed and the mechanism required to produce CD-guest inclusion complexes are reviewed. Likewise, the use of CDs alone or encapsulating other compounds makes them an extremely versatile nanomaterial for dermofacial and cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 6266 KB

Open AccessArticle

Microbial Fermentation Potentiates the Multifunctional Skin-Care Activities of Polianthes tuberosa L. Flower Extract: Antioxidant, Anti-Glycation, and Anti-Melanogenic Effects

by Qiaozhen Li, Hui Zhu, Rubiao Hou, Teng Jiang, Jinhua Li, Xiaodong Yan and Jing Wang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 243; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060243 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

Polianthes tuberosa L. (PT) flower extracts exhibit considerable bioactivities, yet their application is often constrained by limited bioavailability and efficacy. In this study, fermentation of PT (FPT) using Rhodosporidium toruloides significantly enhanced its phytochemical profile, doubling the total phenol content (697.22 ± 7.51 [...] Read more.

Polianthes tuberosa L. (PT) flower extracts exhibit considerable bioactivities, yet their application is often constrained by limited bioavailability and efficacy. In this study, fermentation of PT (FPT) using Rhodosporidium toruloides significantly enhanced its phytochemical profile, doubling the total phenol content (697.22 ± 7.51 μg/mL in FPT versus (vs.) 347.61 ± 5.89 μg/mL in non-fermented extract (NF)) and increasing flavonoids by onefold relative to NF (381.44 ± 6.50 μg/mL in FPT vs. 190.25 ± 4.75 μg/mL in NF), resulting in a substantial improvement in radical scavenging capacity (DPPH: 47.59 ± 1.55%; ABTS: 89.87 ± 1.39%). In UVB-irradiated the human keratinocyte cell line, FPT demonstrated superior efficacy over NF by effectively reducing reactive oxygen species and malondialdehyde levels (1.29 ± 0.08 ng/mL at 0.4 mg/mL FPT vs. 1.5 ± 0.1 ng/mL with NF), while concurrently elevating the activity of key antioxidant enzymes. Using human dermal fibroblasts, FPT was further shown to possess notable anti-glycation and anti-carbonylation properties, significantly inhibiting carboxymethyl lysine formation (90.6 ± 3.6% reduction) and protein carbonylation (86.5 ± 2.2% reduction). It also suppressed senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity (67.9 ± 3.0% inhibition), downregulated matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression (62.5 ± 5.1% reduction), and stimulated type I collagen synthesis (166.5 ± 4.2% recovery). Additionally, FPT markedly inhibited UVB-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells by reducing melanin content (36.0 ± 5.3%) and tyrosinase activity (45.7 ± 1.2%), through the downregulation of critical melanogenic genes, including melanocortin 1 receptor, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, and tyrosinase. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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15 pages, 1199 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Influence of Titanium Dioxide Particle Size on the Photo-Protective Properties of Pharmaceutical Preparations and Their Effectiveness Assessment Using Hyperspectral Imaging Methods

by Anna Stolecka-Warzecha, Elżbieta Mickoś, Daria Śniecińska, Dominika Malewicz-Skrabania, Adam Wilczyński and Sławomir Wilczyński

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 242; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060242 - 3 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO₂-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. [...] Read more.

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO₂-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of TiO₂ particle size on the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations using hyperspectral imaging (HIS). Methods: This study analyses directional reflectance of skin covered with preparations containing TiO₂ particles < 5 µm and <100 nm across the spectral range 400–1002 nm. Results: Preparations with TiO₂ < 5 µm showed higher reflectance in both the 400–633 nm and 900–1002 nm ranges, while no significant protective enhancement was observed in the 636–897 nm range. Conclusions: Larger TiO₂ particles provided more significant photoprotection across a broader wavelength spectrum, highlighting the importance of particle size selection in modern sunscreen formulations. This experimental in vitro study evaluated the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations containing titanium dioxide particles of different sizes. The measurements were performed using hyperspectral imaging in the 400–1000 nm range, covering ultraviolet and visible light. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 2261 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Polyherbal Formulation That Mitigates Cellular Damage in Narrowband UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

by Sineenad Teerapatpaisan, Alisa Naladta, Suthasinee Thapphasaraphong and Natsajee Nualkaew

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 241; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060241 - 31 Oct 2025

Abstract

Narrowband ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) phototherapy, used for treating skin diseases, can induce skin aging, cause inflammation, and reduce cell viability due to reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. To mitigate these adverse effects, a multi-target polyherbal mixture for topical application was developed. This study [...] Read more.

Narrowband ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) phototherapy, used for treating skin diseases, can induce skin aging, cause inflammation, and reduce cell viability due to reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. To mitigate these adverse effects, a multi-target polyherbal mixture for topical application was developed. This study investigated the effects of a polyherbal combination comprising Zingiber officinale (ZH), Garcinia mangostana (GE), and Centella asiatica (CAEw) extracts against NB-UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Extracts were prepared to obtain high levels of specific biomarkers (compound D, α-mangostin, and asiaticoside). They were characterized for total phenolic and total flavonoid content, antioxidant properties, and anti-collagenase activity. The ability to enhance HaCaT cell viability after NB-UVB exposure was evaluated to determine the optimal polyherbal mixture ratios. Both the individual extracts and polyherbal formulations significantly improved irradiated HaCaT cell viability. Subsequent treatment with 100 µg/mL of the polyherbal mixture ZH:GE:CAEw (1:1:1) increased cell viability from 62.3% to 80.1% and decreased intracellular ROS (63.6%) without reducing cell apoptosis. It also downregulated the gene expression of cyclooxygenase-2, inducible nitric oxide synthase, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), and MMP-9, allowing their expression to reach the normal level of the non-irradiated cells. In conclusion, the polyherbal mixture effectively attenuated NB-UVB-induced damage and premature aging in HaCaT keratinocytes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 3618 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel Development of a Curcuma aromatica Salisb Extract-Loaded Hydrogel Patch for Acne and Skin Inflammation: Physicochemical Properties and In Vitro Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Activities

by Chonthicha Kongkwamcharoen, Suwipa Ungphaiboon, Buncha Ooraikul and Chuchard Punsawad

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 240; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060240 - 28 Oct 2025

Abstract

Background/Objectives: Inflammatory skin disorders such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne that affect patients’ quality of life and health require safe and effective active delivery systems. In Thai traditional medicine, Curcuma aromatica has long been used to treat skin disorders and for cosmetic [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: Inflammatory skin disorders such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne that affect patients’ quality of life and health require safe and effective active delivery systems. In Thai traditional medicine, Curcuma aromatica has long been used to treat skin disorders and for cosmetic skin care. However, the research is scarce. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a novel anti-inflammatory and anti-acne hydrogel patch containing C. aromatica extract. Methods: The hydrogel patch formulations were prepared, and their mechanical properties, in vitro release, skin permeation, in vitro anti-inflammatory and anti-acne activities, and physicochemical properties were studied. Results: The C. aromatica hydrogel patch (CA2 formulation) made from carrageenan, locust bean gum, PVP-K30, and C. aromatica extract displayed excellent physical appearance and mechanical properties; it was smooth, durable, and flexible. Curcumin, an active ingredient, was released from the C. aromatica hydrogel patch within the first 30 min (19.07 ± 1.14%), reaching its peak at 12 h (50.40 ± 3.94%), with sustained permeation of 38.18 ± 0.45% at 24 h. Data from the drug release and permeation study better fit Higuchi’s kinetic model. Additionally, the CA2 hydrogel patch demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity, with an IC₅₀ value of 19.85 ± 0.82 μg/mL, and was also effective against Cutibacterium acne, with an inhibition zone of 12.70 ± 2.10 mm. Conclusions: The developed C. aromatica hydrogel patch not only showed great physicochemical properties but also had anti-inflammatory and anti-acne activities; it prolonged curcumin release, enabling delivery of the drug to treat skin inflammation disorders. The CA hydrogel patch is suitable for use as an anti-acne facial mask and for inflamed skin areas; however, it should be further evaluated in clinical trials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 2750 KB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin: Assessing Rheological Properties, Stability, and Safety

by Antonia Mancuso, Antonio Silletta, Mario Verdiglione, Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonella Barone, Jolanda Sacco, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 239; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060239 - 27 Oct 2025

Abstract

Skin compatibility is a common issue and can often be worsened by certain ingredients in cosmetics. This is why developing well-balanced and -tolerated formulas is now an essential challenge. In this work we developed a cream rich in antioxidant, soothing, and moisturizing agents [...] Read more.

Skin compatibility is a common issue and can often be worsened by certain ingredients in cosmetics. This is why developing well-balanced and -tolerated formulas is now an essential challenge. In this work we developed a cream rich in antioxidant, soothing, and moisturizing agents complying with concentration limits for sensitive skin. An initial optimization was carried out, and the best-performing formula was fully characterized to test its rheological properties under static or dynamic conditions and product safety. The formulation proved to be highly stable even under thermal stress, as shown by Turbiscan Lab analyses, which reported backscattering values ±2. Rheological tests also indicated a solid-like behavior with reduced viscosity at skin temperature of 32 °C, confirming the good spreadability of the cream. Finally, in vivo tests on healthy volunteers showed excellent safety results and good overall appreciation of the product. No changes in transepidermal water loss (7.9 ± 3.5 vs. 5.5 ± 0.4, p > 0.05), skin hydration (44.2 ± 18.6 vs. 50.5 ± 14.1, p > 0.05), or color were detected within 6 h from application, compared with baseline values. Moreover, volunteers highlighted the cream’s suitability for dry skin and expressed satisfaction with spreadability, a nourishing and hydrating sensation after application, and the absence of residues, consistently rating them ≥4 in the skin feeling questionnaire. These results are promising and support the potential use of the product on sensitive skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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