Cosmetics

14 pages, 2377 KB

Open AccessArticle

Multifunctional Effects of N-Carbamylglutamate on Skin-Related Cells: Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Inflammatory Activities

by Sa Rang Choi, Nu Ri Song, Seo Yeon Shin, Ki Min Kim, Jae Hee Byun, Seon Ju Kim, Dai Hyun Jung, Su Jung Kim and Kyung Mok Park

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 250; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060250 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore [...] Read more.

Skin aging is accelerated by both environmental factors—including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution—and intrinsic processes such as chronic inflammaging. N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), an arginine precursor known for its benefits for gut and reproductive health, has not been extensively studied in dermatological applications. To explore its suitability as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, this study examines the protective role of NCG in counteracting UV-stimulated oxidative and inflammatory responses in skin cells. NCG significantly reduced UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), indicating strong antioxidant properties. It also inhibited matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity, preserving collagen integrity and reducing wrinkle formation. In addition, NCG suppressed nitric oxide (NO) production and downregulated key inflammatory mediators—including cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin-6 (IL-6)—highlighting its anti-inflammatory potential. Furthermore, NCG reduced melanin production and the expression of melanogenesis-related factors such as the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. These findings support the role of NCG as a promising multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and skin-brightening properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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23 pages, 4391 KB

Open AccessArticle

Rice Germ Oil and Ferulic Acid Effects on Hair

by Marisanna Centini, Giulia Signori, Fabrizio Francescon, Fumi Tsuno, Tomoki Oguro and Cecilia Anselmi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 249; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060249 - 7 Nov 2025

Abstract

Hair can be significantly damaged following exposure to environmental agents and physical and chemical treatments. The aim of this study concerned the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy of a hair mask containing two rice derivatives: rice germ oil GX-N and ferulic [...] Read more.

Hair can be significantly damaged following exposure to environmental agents and physical and chemical treatments. The aim of this study concerned the evaluation of the protective and restructuring efficacy of a hair mask containing two rice derivatives: rice germ oil GX-N and ferulic acid. This evaluation was performed on hair damaged by bleaching, UV irradiation, and heat treatment by applying the following techniques: FT-IR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy), a stress–strain test, polarized light microscopy analysis, and protein loss determination. The application of the masks highlighted an improvement in the characteristics of the hair. Rice germ oil GX-N showed very interesting and protective properties in all the treatments; however, the inclusion of a low concentration of ferulic acid did not provide additional benefits. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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19 pages, 2286 KB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Characterization of Cosmetic Creams Based on Natural Oils from the Rosaceae Family

by Katya Hutova, Velichka Andonova, Natalina Panova, Ivan Ivanov, Krastena Nikolova and Viliana Gugleva

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 248; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060248 - 6 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Creams are one of the most used cosmetic formulations due to their hydrating and restoring properties, pleasant texture, and the possibility to deliver hydrophobic and hydrophilic active ingredients. The study aims to develop and characterize cosmetic creams based on natural-sourced ingredients—different vegetable [...] Read more.

Background: Creams are one of the most used cosmetic formulations due to their hydrating and restoring properties, pleasant texture, and the possibility to deliver hydrophobic and hydrophilic active ingredients. The study aims to develop and characterize cosmetic creams based on natural-sourced ingredients—different vegetable oils from the Rosacea family: (1) Chaenomelis japonica seed oil, (2) Rosa canina seed oil, (3) Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, alone and in combination (4), along with silk protein (sericin) and astaxanthin. Methods: The creams were prepared by the hot homogenization method and were characterized in terms of rheological properties, spreadability, and antioxidant activity. Results: Two suitable formulations were selected as feasible for cosmetic application—the model containing Chaenomelis japonica seed oil exhibiting the highest antioxidant activity (47% higher vs. the model based on rosehip oil by FRAP method) and the highest spreadability values among the tested formulations (ranging between 61.57 and 69.34 mm). The second selected optimal formulation is the model based on a combination of oils characterized by the most suitable consistency and high antioxidant activity. Conclusions: The differences in their rheological behavior suggest as feasible application of Japanese quince oil cream its use as a daycare antioxidant cream, whereas the mixed oils-based cream model may potentially serve as a night cream for restorative and antioxidant care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 369 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy of Needle and Microneedle Mesotherapy in Reducing Signs of Skin Aging—A Split-Face Comparative Study

by Agnieszka Surgiel-Gemza, Beata Mysiak and Julita Zdrada-Nowak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 247; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060247 - 6 Nov 2025

Abstract

Introduction: Major manifestations of facial skin aging include the loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles, and various pigmentary changes. Mesotherapy—both needle and microneedle-based—is a commonly chosen procedure that effectively revitalizes and stimulates the skin. The aim of this study was [...] Read more.

Introduction: Major manifestations of facial skin aging include the loss of firmness and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles, and various pigmentary changes. Mesotherapy—both needle and microneedle-based—is a commonly chosen procedure that effectively revitalizes and stimulates the skin. The aim of this study was to compare the effectiveness of both techniques in reducing the signs of skin aging using a product containing fragmented hyaluronic acid and an amino acid complex. Materials and Methods: The study included 20 female participants aged 35–60 years who underwent a series of four treatment sessions in a split-face design. One side of the face was treated with needle mesotherapy, while the other side received microneedle mesotherapy. In each session, 5 mL of a preparation containing fragmented hyaluronic acid, glutathione, stabilized vitamin C, and an amino acid complex was administered. Skin parameters (hydration, pH, sebum level, erythema, and pigmentation), photographic documentation, participants’ subjective evaluations, and pain scores were assessed. Results: Both techniques led to significant improvements in skin condition. Microneedle mesotherapy was more effective in enhancing hydration, regulating sebum and pH, and was better tolerated in terms of pain. Needle mesotherapy demonstrated greater efficacy in reducing pigmentation. Patient satisfaction was high in both groups. Conclusions: Both needle and microneedle mesotherapy are effective treatments for aging skin, although their mechanisms of action differ. The choice of technique should be tailored to the individual needs of the skin and the expectations of the patient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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32 pages, 5730 KB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Aging and Wound Healing Activity of Cashew Apple (Anacardium occidentale) Extract and Its Liposomal Development to Enhance Skin Permeability and Ascorbic Acid Stability

by Narumon Changsan, Apichart Atipairin, Poowadon Muenraya, Pajaree Sakdiset, Titpawan Nakpheng, Teerapol Srichana, Rutthapol Sritharadol, Neelam Balekar, Wirot Chanthorn, Nawattakorn Nualsri, Mapasawan Lewviriyakun and Somchai Sawatdee

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 246; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060246 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

The cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.) is rich in antioxidant bioactive constituents that have anti-aging and wound healing properties. The objective of this study is to evaluate the biological activities of cashew apple extract (CAE) and to improve the issue involving the [...] Read more.

The cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.) is rich in antioxidant bioactive constituents that have anti-aging and wound healing properties. The objective of this study is to evaluate the biological activities of cashew apple extract (CAE) and to improve the issue involving the instability of ascorbic acid, the principal active compound, by encapsulating the extract in liposomes in order to enhance its stability and skin permeation for cosmetic applications. CAE was obtained from fresh cashew apple via ethanol maceration, solvent evaporation, and freeze-drying. Ascorbic acid content, total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and total caffeoylquinic acid content (TCQAC) were determined. The ascorbic acid content and its tautomer in the extract were quantified using the LC-MS/MS method. Biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, fibroblast collagen synthesis, cytoprotection against oxidative stress, wound healing, and cytotoxicity, were assessed. CAE was encapsulated in liposomes to enhance the stability of its inherent ascorbic acid and improve its skin in comparison to free-CAE. The CAE and liposomal-CAE were incorporated and formulated into a solution, and their physicochemical stability was assessed after storage. CAE appeared as a brown, viscous liquid with a characteristic sweet, fruity scent. Each gram of CAE contained 0.90 ± 0.05 mg of ascorbic acid, TPC, 81.40 ± 7.14 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE), TFC, 3.73 ± 0.30 mg of rutin equivalents (RE), and TCQAC, 4.48 ± 0.05 mg of chlorogenic acid equivalents (CGAE). CAE exhibited antioxidant properties (IC₅₀ = 282.19 ± 11.16 and 963.66 ± 3.95 µg/mL for DPPH and ABTS assay, respectively) and weak anti-tyrosinase activity (IC₅₀ = 4213.77 ± 138.97 µg/mL). It was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast and monocyte cells at a concentration of less than 1 mg/mL. In vitro wound healing assays demonstrated that CAE stimulated collagen production in a dose-dependent manner at CAE concentrations above 250 µg/mL. Additionally, CAE exhibited cytoprotective effects against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress and did not induce inflammatory responses in immune cells. The liposomal formulation containing CAE achieved high encapsulation efficiency (79.75–84.55%) based on ascorbic acid content. In skin permeation studies, CAE-loaded liposomes demonstrated an enhancement ratio approximately two-fold greater than that of free-CAE. Stability testing over 3 months showed that the ascorbic acid content in CAE-loaded liposomes remained significantly higher than that in the free-CAE under both refrigerated and long-term conditions (30 °C/75% RH). CAE demonstrated potential anti-aging properties for improving aging skin. Liposomal incorporation markedly improved ascorbic acid stability and skin permeability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)

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18 pages, 2342 KB

Open AccessArticle

Total Flavonoid Extraction from Baihao Yinzhen Utilizing Ultrasound-Assisted Deep Eutectic Solvent: Optimization of Conditions, Anti-Inflammatory, and Molecular Docking Analysis

by Ziqi Zhang, Yan Chu, Wanting Huang, Huan Chen, Shengbao Hong, Dingfeng Kong and Liyong Du

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 245; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060245 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Despite extensive phytochemical research on white tea varieties, flavonoid profiling in Baihao Yinzhen remains scarce. The development of green and efficient extraction methods is essential to facilitate its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Methods: A deep eutectic solvent-based ultrasound-assisted extraction (DES-UAE) was [...] Read more.

Background: Despite extensive phytochemical research on white tea varieties, flavonoid profiling in Baihao Yinzhen remains scarce. The development of green and efficient extraction methods is essential to facilitate its potential application in cosmetic formulations. Methods: A deep eutectic solvent-based ultrasound-assisted extraction (DES-UAE) was developed for Baihao Yinzhen flavonoids. After screening of 14 DESs and optimizing the conditions via single-factor and response surface methodology, the extracts were analyzed by UPLC-MS. Anti-inflammatory activity was assessed in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells by measuring TNF-α and IL-6 levels, with molecular docking simulating flavonoid–cytokine interactions; Results: Among 14 tested deep eutectic solvents, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin/lactic acid (HP-β-CD/La) was identified as the most effective solvent for flavonoid extraction. Under optimized conditions (HBD/HBA mass ratio 3:1, temperature 60 °C, water content 40%, solid–liquid ratio 1:19, extraction time 62 min), the maximum flavonoid yield reached 108.72 mg RE/g DW. The DES extract (2.5 μg/mL) significantly suppressed TNF-α and IL-6 secretion in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells compared to the water extract. UPLC-MS identified five major flavonoid glycosides, and molecular docking revealed their strong binding affinities with TNF-α and IL-6 proteins. Conclusions: DES-UAE provides an efficient green method for flavonoid extraction. The extract demonstrates significant anti-inflammatory activity, supporting its potential as a natural cosmetic ingredient. This study aimed to develop an efficient and green DES-UAE method for the extraction of flavonoids from Baihao Yinzhen, in order to evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of the extract and to explore the potential interaction mechanisms of key flavonoids with inflammatory targets via molecular docking. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 451 KB

Open AccessReview

Cyclodextrin Applications in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review

by Irene Conesa, Francisco José Vidal-Sánchez, Silvia Navarro-Orcajada, Carolina Abril-Sánchez, Adrián Matencio and José Manuel López-Nicolás

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 244; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060244 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving to create new formulations that offer controlled and specific release of active ingredients, as well as greater penetration, duration and stability of the resulting products. To fulfil all these objectives, the use of cyclodextrins in different cosmetic [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving to create new formulations that offer controlled and specific release of active ingredients, as well as greater penetration, duration and stability of the resulting products. To fulfil all these objectives, the use of cyclodextrins in different cosmetic formulations is being considered. CDs are cyclic oligosaccharides with a hydrophilic outer surface and an inner cavity able to encapsulate hydrophobic molecules. This property can be used to form complexes with hydrophobic molecules and solubilise them in aqueous matrices, such as creams or gels. This review analyses the main advantages that these agents provide in cosmetic products, such as protection, administration and controlled release of bioactive ingredients, improved water solubility, reduced fragrance volatility, masking off unpleasant odours, modification of the physicochemical properties of formulations or prevention of ingredient side effects, among others. Formulations of lotions, sunscreens, deodorants, gels or perfumes containing CDs are already on the market, and new ones are being developed. Moreover, the regulations concerning their use, the types of cyclodextrins allowed and the mechanism required to produce CD-guest inclusion complexes are reviewed. Likewise, the use of CDs alone or encapsulating other compounds makes them an extremely versatile nanomaterial for dermofacial and cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 6266 KB

Open AccessArticle

Microbial Fermentation Potentiates the Multifunctional Skin-Care Activities of Polianthes tuberosa L. Flower Extract: Antioxidant, Anti-Glycation, and Anti-Melanogenic Effects

by Qiaozhen Li, Hui Zhu, Rubiao Hou, Teng Jiang, Jinhua Li, Xiaodong Yan and Jing Wang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 243; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060243 - 5 Nov 2025

Abstract

Polianthes tuberosa L. (PT) flower extracts exhibit considerable bioactivities, yet their application is often constrained by limited bioavailability and efficacy. In this study, fermentation of PT (FPT) using Rhodosporidium toruloides significantly enhanced its phytochemical profile, doubling the total phenol content (697.22 ± 7.51 [...] Read more.

Polianthes tuberosa L. (PT) flower extracts exhibit considerable bioactivities, yet their application is often constrained by limited bioavailability and efficacy. In this study, fermentation of PT (FPT) using Rhodosporidium toruloides significantly enhanced its phytochemical profile, doubling the total phenol content (697.22 ± 7.51 μg/mL in FPT versus (vs.) 347.61 ± 5.89 μg/mL in non-fermented extract (NF)) and increasing flavonoids by onefold relative to NF (381.44 ± 6.50 μg/mL in FPT vs. 190.25 ± 4.75 μg/mL in NF), resulting in a substantial improvement in radical scavenging capacity (DPPH: 47.59 ± 1.55%; ABTS: 89.87 ± 1.39%). In UVB-irradiated the human keratinocyte cell line, FPT demonstrated superior efficacy over NF by effectively reducing reactive oxygen species and malondialdehyde levels (1.29 ± 0.08 ng/mL at 0.4 mg/mL FPT vs. 1.5 ± 0.1 ng/mL with NF), while concurrently elevating the activity of key antioxidant enzymes. Using human dermal fibroblasts, FPT was further shown to possess notable anti-glycation and anti-carbonylation properties, significantly inhibiting carboxymethyl lysine formation (90.6 ± 3.6% reduction) and protein carbonylation (86.5 ± 2.2% reduction). It also suppressed senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity (67.9 ± 3.0% inhibition), downregulated matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression (62.5 ± 5.1% reduction), and stimulated type I collagen synthesis (166.5 ± 4.2% recovery). Additionally, FPT markedly inhibited UVB-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells by reducing melanin content (36.0 ± 5.3%) and tyrosinase activity (45.7 ± 1.2%), through the downregulation of critical melanogenic genes, including melanocortin 1 receptor, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, and tyrosinase. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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15 pages, 1199 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Influence of Titanium Dioxide Particle Size on the Photo-Protective Properties of Pharmaceutical Preparations and Their Effectiveness Assessment Using Hyperspectral Imaging Methods

by Anna Stolecka-Warzecha, Elżbieta Mickoś, Daria Śniecińska, Dominika Malewicz-Skrabania, Adam Wilczyński and Sławomir Wilczyński

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 242; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060242 - 3 Nov 2025

Abstract

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO₂-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. [...] Read more.

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used as a physical filter in sunscreen formulations due to its ability to reflect and scatter radiation. The effectiveness of TiO₂-based preparations depends on particle size, influencing photoprotective properties across various wavelength ranges. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of TiO₂ particle size on the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations using hyperspectral imaging (HIS). Methods: This study analyses directional reflectance of skin covered with preparations containing TiO₂ particles < 5 µm and <100 nm across the spectral range 400–1002 nm. Results: Preparations with TiO₂ < 5 µm showed higher reflectance in both the 400–633 nm and 900–1002 nm ranges, while no significant protective enhancement was observed in the 636–897 nm range. Conclusions: Larger TiO₂ particles provided more significant photoprotection across a broader wavelength spectrum, highlighting the importance of particle size selection in modern sunscreen formulations. This experimental in vitro study evaluated the photoprotective properties of pharmaceutical preparations containing titanium dioxide particles of different sizes. The measurements were performed using hyperspectral imaging in the 400–1000 nm range, covering ultraviolet and visible light. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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21 pages, 2261 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Polyherbal Formulation That Mitigates Cellular Damage in Narrowband UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

by Sineenad Teerapatpaisan, Alisa Naladta, Suthasinee Thapphasaraphong and Natsajee Nualkaew

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 241; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060241 - 31 Oct 2025

Abstract

Narrowband ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) phototherapy, used for treating skin diseases, can induce skin aging, cause inflammation, and reduce cell viability due to reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. To mitigate these adverse effects, a multi-target polyherbal mixture for topical application was developed. This study [...] Read more.

Narrowband ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) phototherapy, used for treating skin diseases, can induce skin aging, cause inflammation, and reduce cell viability due to reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. To mitigate these adverse effects, a multi-target polyherbal mixture for topical application was developed. This study investigated the effects of a polyherbal combination comprising Zingiber officinale (ZH), Garcinia mangostana (GE), and Centella asiatica (CAEw) extracts against NB-UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells. Extracts were prepared to obtain high levels of specific biomarkers (compound D, α-mangostin, and asiaticoside). They were characterized for total phenolic and total flavonoid content, antioxidant properties, and anti-collagenase activity. The ability to enhance HaCaT cell viability after NB-UVB exposure was evaluated to determine the optimal polyherbal mixture ratios. Both the individual extracts and polyherbal formulations significantly improved irradiated HaCaT cell viability. Subsequent treatment with 100 µg/mL of the polyherbal mixture ZH:GE:CAEw (1:1:1) increased cell viability from 62.3% to 80.1% and decreased intracellular ROS (63.6%) without reducing cell apoptosis. It also downregulated the gene expression of cyclooxygenase-2, inducible nitric oxide synthase, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), and MMP-9, allowing their expression to reach the normal level of the non-irradiated cells. In conclusion, the polyherbal mixture effectively attenuated NB-UVB-induced damage and premature aging in HaCaT keratinocytes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 3618 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel Development of a Curcuma aromatica Salisb Extract-Loaded Hydrogel Patch for Acne and Skin Inflammation: Physicochemical Properties and In Vitro Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Activities

by Chonthicha Kongkwamcharoen, Suwipa Ungphaiboon, Buncha Ooraikul and Chuchard Punsawad

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 240; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060240 - 28 Oct 2025

Abstract

Background/Objectives: Inflammatory skin disorders such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne that affect patients’ quality of life and health require safe and effective active delivery systems. In Thai traditional medicine, Curcuma aromatica has long been used to treat skin disorders and for cosmetic [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: Inflammatory skin disorders such as dermatitis, psoriasis, and acne that affect patients’ quality of life and health require safe and effective active delivery systems. In Thai traditional medicine, Curcuma aromatica has long been used to treat skin disorders and for cosmetic skin care. However, the research is scarce. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a novel anti-inflammatory and anti-acne hydrogel patch containing C. aromatica extract. Methods: The hydrogel patch formulations were prepared, and their mechanical properties, in vitro release, skin permeation, in vitro anti-inflammatory and anti-acne activities, and physicochemical properties were studied. Results: The C. aromatica hydrogel patch (CA2 formulation) made from carrageenan, locust bean gum, PVP-K30, and C. aromatica extract displayed excellent physical appearance and mechanical properties; it was smooth, durable, and flexible. Curcumin, an active ingredient, was released from the C. aromatica hydrogel patch within the first 30 min (19.07 ± 1.14%), reaching its peak at 12 h (50.40 ± 3.94%), with sustained permeation of 38.18 ± 0.45% at 24 h. Data from the drug release and permeation study better fit Higuchi’s kinetic model. Additionally, the CA2 hydrogel patch demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity, with an IC₅₀ value of 19.85 ± 0.82 μg/mL, and was also effective against Cutibacterium acne, with an inhibition zone of 12.70 ± 2.10 mm. Conclusions: The developed C. aromatica hydrogel patch not only showed great physicochemical properties but also had anti-inflammatory and anti-acne activities; it prolonged curcumin release, enabling delivery of the drug to treat skin inflammation disorders. The CA hydrogel patch is suitable for use as an anti-acne facial mask and for inflamed skin areas; however, it should be further evaluated in clinical trials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 2750 KB

Open AccessArticle

Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin: Assessing Rheological Properties, Stability, and Safety

by Antonia Mancuso, Antonio Silletta, Mario Verdiglione, Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonella Barone, Jolanda Sacco, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 239; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060239 - 27 Oct 2025

Abstract

Skin compatibility is a common issue and can often be worsened by certain ingredients in cosmetics. This is why developing well-balanced and -tolerated formulas is now an essential challenge. In this work we developed a cream rich in antioxidant, soothing, and moisturizing agents [...] Read more.

Skin compatibility is a common issue and can often be worsened by certain ingredients in cosmetics. This is why developing well-balanced and -tolerated formulas is now an essential challenge. In this work we developed a cream rich in antioxidant, soothing, and moisturizing agents complying with concentration limits for sensitive skin. An initial optimization was carried out, and the best-performing formula was fully characterized to test its rheological properties under static or dynamic conditions and product safety. The formulation proved to be highly stable even under thermal stress, as shown by Turbiscan Lab analyses, which reported backscattering values ±2. Rheological tests also indicated a solid-like behavior with reduced viscosity at skin temperature of 32 °C, confirming the good spreadability of the cream. Finally, in vivo tests on healthy volunteers showed excellent safety results and good overall appreciation of the product. No changes in transepidermal water loss (7.9 ± 3.5 vs. 5.5 ± 0.4, p > 0.05), skin hydration (44.2 ± 18.6 vs. 50.5 ± 14.1, p > 0.05), or color were detected within 6 h from application, compared with baseline values. Moreover, volunteers highlighted the cream’s suitability for dry skin and expressed satisfaction with spreadability, a nourishing and hydrating sensation after application, and the absence of residues, consistently rating them ≥4 in the skin feeling questionnaire. These results are promising and support the potential use of the product on sensitive skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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34 pages, 10274 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phyto-Assisted Synthesis and Investigation of Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles for Their Anti-Aging, Sun Protection and Antibacterial Activity

by Harshad S. Kapare, Mayuri Bhosale, Pawan Karwa, Deepak Kulkarni, Ritesh Bhole and Sonali Labhade

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 238; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060238 - 24 Oct 2025

Abstract

Objective: This study aimed to develop eco-friendly zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) using Punica granatum (pomegranate) peel extract and to evaluate their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and photoprotective potential. Method: ZnO NPs were synthesized via a green chemistry route employing polyphenol- and flavonoid-rich peel extract [...] Read more.

Objective: This study aimed to develop eco-friendly zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) using Punica granatum (pomegranate) peel extract and to evaluate their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and photoprotective potential. Method: ZnO NPs were synthesized via a green chemistry route employing polyphenol- and flavonoid-rich peel extract as reducing and stabilizing agents. The nanoparticles were characterized using FTIR, SEM, XRD, DSC, DLS, and UV–Vis spectroscopy. Biological activities were assessed through in vitro assays including antioxidant (DPPH), anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial activity, and SPF determination. In vivo photoprotective efficacy was further evaluated in UVB-irradiated rat models, with histological analysis to confirm structural skin changes. Results: The optimized ZnO NPs exhibited an average particle size of ~194 nm with a zeta potential of −18.2 mV, indicating good stability. They demonstrated notable antioxidant activity (DPPH IC₅₀ = 52.91 µg/mL), substantial tyrosinase inhibition (72% at 200 µg/mL), and antibacterial activity with inhibition zones up to 19 mm against S. aureus and 17 mm against E. coli. The nanoparticles also showed excellent UV absorption, with an SPF value of 29.8, exceeding the FDA threshold for effective sun protection. In vivo, topical application of ZnO NPs in UVB-exposed rats led to a 69% reduction in epidermal thickness and preservation of collagen fibers compared with UV controls. Conclusions: These findings confirm that P. granatum peel extract–mediated ZnO NPs possess significant antioxidant, antimicrobial, and photoprotective activities. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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20 pages, 2654 KB

Open AccessArticle

Persicaria tinctoria Extract Mitigates UV-Associated DNA Damage and Inflammation, While Boosting Vitamin D3 and Melanin in Human Skin

by Morgane de Tollenaere, Catherine Zanchetta, Anaïs Durduret, Jessy Martinez, Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 237; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060237 - 23 Oct 2025

Abstract

Benefit/risk management of skin exposure to sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) rays, is mainly driven by photoaging, cancer incidence, and the requirement for vitamin D3 synthesis. Antioxidant phytocompounds are considered to be a valuable source of molecules to protect skin from UV-induced damage, but [...] Read more.

Benefit/risk management of skin exposure to sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) rays, is mainly driven by photoaging, cancer incidence, and the requirement for vitamin D3 synthesis. Antioxidant phytocompounds are considered to be a valuable source of molecules to protect skin from UV-induced damage, but their impact on other UV-related metabolic pathways is rarely described. In this study, an indigoid-rich Persicaria tinctoria extract (PTE) was evaluated on three consequences of UV exposure: DNA damage and inflammation, vitamin D3 content, and melanogenesis. A moderate UV exposure was applied on skin models, corresponding to approximately 1 h exposure in the spring in western Europe. UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation were measured through the quantification of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and cytokines. Response to heat stress was quantified through the release of prostaglandin. Then, the impact of PTE on vitamin D3 and melanin synthesis was observed. PTE decreased by −56% in the number of cells presenting CPDs. PTE decreased the production of pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-6 (−59%) and stimulated the release of the protective cytokine IL-1Ra (+49%). It decreased PGE₂ release by −27%. In skin explants, PTE boosted the vitamin D3 concentration (+345%). Several genes involved in melanogenesis were up-regulated by PTE (MC1R × 2.46, MITF × 1.69, TYR × 2.06, MLPH × 1.53). It promoted melanin content by +126% and by +86% when associated with SPF 30. The extract decreased the amount of protective eumelanin, leading to visible skin tanning of reconstructed human epidermis (L*-15%, ITA −125%). As a new finding, PTE minimized DNA damage and inflammation caused by a daily dose of UV, and surprisingly, promoted vitamin D3 and eumelanin synthesis, suggesting that it represents an opportunity to reconcile skin protection and the physiological need for sunlight. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 624 KB

Open AccessReview

Evaluation, Symptoms, Influencing Factors, and Prospects of Sensitive Scalp: A Literature Review

by Xiaoxi Yan, Qian Jiao, Congfen He, Yan Jia, Huaming He and Cheng Zhou

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 236; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060236 - 22 Oct 2025

Abstract

Sensitive scalp (SSC) is a common but often overlooked dermatological state, characterized by subjective symptoms such as pruritus, tingling, tightness, pain, or burning sensations. Primary SSC typically occurs in the absence of visible clinical inflammation. Numerous studies have suggested that the onset of [...] Read more.

Sensitive scalp (SSC) is a common but often overlooked dermatological state, characterized by subjective symptoms such as pruritus, tingling, tightness, pain, or burning sensations. Primary SSC typically occurs in the absence of visible clinical inflammation. Numerous studies have suggested that the onset of SSC may be influenced by a variety of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including physical (ultraviolet radiation, changes in temperature and humidity), chemical (cosmetic ingredients, environmental pollutants), and psychological factors (emotional stress). This article provides a narrative review of the current research on SSC, drawing on literature published between 1963 and 2024 in PubMed, Elsevier, and Web of Science databases. We summarize its hallmark symptoms, available evaluation methods, potential mechanisms, and contributing factors and propose corresponding scalp care recommendations. This review aims to offer theoretical insights into the pathogenesis of SSC and to support the development of effective protective strategies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 2884 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Safety of a Novel Anhydrous 0.1% Retinal-Based Concentrate with Hydrophilic Actives for Photoaged Skin: A Six-Week Prospective Study

by Ulf Åkerström, Chloé Gaudicheau, Blandine Locret and Johanna Maria Gillbro

Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 235; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060235 - 22 Oct 2025

Abstract

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and [...] Read more.

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation—while offering improved tolerability compared to prescription-based retinoids like all-trans retinoic acid. However, their instability in formulations and limited bioavailability when applied topically remain major challenges. Objective: This exploratory study aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of a novel mix-activated anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate formulated also with hydrophilic active ingredients—N-acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide, ascorbic acid, and alpha-glucan oligosaccharide—in improving signs of skin aging over six weeks. Methods: A prospective, single-center study was conducted with 27 healthy adults (24 female and 3 male, aged 40–69 years, 21 with skin phototype III and 6 with phototype II) exhibiting visible signs of photoaging. Participants applied the retinal concentrate once daily, mixed in a 1:2 ratio with a moisturizer before application. Objective skin parameters, including pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, texture, volume, and pore visibility, were assessed using the Antera 3D imaging system at baseline and after six weeks. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed at week six. Statistical significance was determined using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (p < 0.05) and was corrected for multiple analyses. Results: Significant improvements were observed across all parameters: pigmentation (−12%, p < 0.0001), fine lines (−14%, p < 0.0001), wrinkle depth (−5%, p = 0.0045), skin texture (+12%, p < 0.0001), volume irregularities (−15%, p < 0.0001), and pore visibility (−24%, p < 0.0001). No significant change in redness was detected (p = 0.6664), indicating a good tolerability to the test product. Self-assessments reflected high user satisfaction: 81% reported improved skin appearance, 43% noted reduced need for makeup use, and 40% observed visible improvements already within two weeks. Conclusions: The anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate with hydrophilic actives significantly improved clinical signs of photoaging without causing irritation. The innovative mix-activated formulation stabilizes sensitive ingredients and enhances their efficacy, offering a novel, active, and well-tolerated approach to anti-aging skincare. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 1272 KB

Open AccessCommunication

Glutathione Trisulphide Improves Skin Brightness with Anti-Melanogenesis Effects and Maintains Intracellular Persulphide Levels

by Yoshiaki Uchida and Toshiya Sato

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 234; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050234 - 21 Oct 2025

Abstract

Melanin, the principal component of skin pigmentation, is produced through tyrosinase activity. Recently, supersulphides have been identified in human cells and found to play a role in maintaining cellular activities. Glutathione trisulphide (GSSSG), a supersulphide with antioxidant properties, has various biological effects. However, [...] Read more.

Melanin, the principal component of skin pigmentation, is produced through tyrosinase activity. Recently, supersulphides have been identified in human cells and found to play a role in maintaining cellular activities. Glutathione trisulphide (GSSSG), a supersulphide with antioxidant properties, has various biological effects. However, the influence of melanin production on intracellular persulphide levels remains unclear, and no studies have reported the anti-melanogenic effects of GSSSG. Therefore, we aimed to elucidate the impact of melanogenesis on intracellular persulphide abundance and synthesis, as well as the efficacy of GSSSG in inhibiting melanogenesis in melanoma cells. In this study, B16-F0 cells were used to evaluate the melanin and intracellular persulphide levels by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). Moreover, the effects of GSSSG on melanin production were studied. The results revealed that α-MSH-induced melanogenesis significantly increased melanin production and decreased intracellular persulphide levels. Furthermore, the expression of persulphide synthesis genes, including Cars2 and Cbs, was significantly downregulated by α-MSH. In contrast, GSSSG significantly suppressed α-MSH-induced melanin production. Notably, GSSSG restored the intracellular persulphide levels reduced by α-MSH and upregulated Cars2 and Cbs expression. These findings suggest that GSSSG exerts anti-melanogenesis effects, maintains intracellular persulphide levels, and improves skin brightness. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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2 pages, 666 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Kim et al. An Adhesive Peptide Derived from Mussel Protein Alleviates LL37-Induced Rosacea Through Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Angiogenic Mechanisms. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 143

by Tae Yoon Kim, Jin Hyeop Kim, Yeon-Jun Lee, Min Ji Song, Ha Hui Park and Ji Hyung Chung

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 233; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050233 - 21 Oct 2025

Abstract

In the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

15 pages, 3084 KB

Open AccessArticle

Selective Regulatory Effects of Lactobacillus Plantarum Fermented Milk: Enhancing the Growth of Staphylococcus Epidermidis and Inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli

by Yajuan Sun, Ying Wang, Zixia Ren, Shasha Wang, Yun Ding, Nan Liu, Cheng Yang and Bingtian Zhao

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 232; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050232 - 17 Oct 2025

Abstract

To address the limitation of traditional broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents in compromising skin microbiota homeostasis, this study developed Lactobacillus plantarum fermented milk (FM) as an innovative strategy for selectively regulating microbial communities to restore skin microbiota balance. FM was produced through protease hydrolysis in [...] Read more.

To address the limitation of traditional broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents in compromising skin microbiota homeostasis, this study developed Lactobacillus plantarum fermented milk (FM) as an innovative strategy for selectively regulating microbial communities to restore skin microbiota balance. FM was produced through protease hydrolysis in combination with L. plantarum fermentation. Selective antibacterial properties were evaluated via monoculture experiments (Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis) and pathogen–commensal co-culture systems. It was found that FM can selectively inhibit pathogens (E. coli and S. aureus) and promote the growth of commensal bacteria (S. epidermidis) in monoculture, and can reduce the growth and competitiveness of E. coli and S. aureus while relatively increasing the colony count of S. epidermidis in the co-culture system. Metabolomic profiling was further performed to identify metabolic alterations induced by FM. It was found that FM can activate the pyruvate metabolic node, significantly enhancing the metabolic fluxes of lactic acid, citric acid, and short-chain fatty acids, which triggered the acid stress response of pathogenic bacteria while consuming a considerable amount of energy, attenuating their reproductive capacity without impacting the growth of commensal bacteria. Overall, FM showed selective antimicrobial activity against pathogens (E. coli, and S. aureus) and preservation of commensal S. epidermidis, offering a foundational reference for the development of postbiotics aimed at maintaining cutaneous microbial homeostasis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)

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