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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients
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Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284). This special issue belongs to the section "Cosmetic Formulations".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 December 2025 | Viewed by 1262

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Chemical and Materials Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: natural cosmetics ingredients; synthetic cosmetics ingredients; encapsulation and transdermal delivery; skin care; hair care; colloids and emulsions
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
College of Life Science and Technology, Jinan University, Guangzhou 510632, China
Interests: functional cosmetics; targeted drugs; inflammation and autoimmune diseases
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Cosmetics, initially associated with altering one’s appearance, have evolved beyond their traditional beauty role to encompass skin-care and the treatment of various skin conditions. With the rise in consumer preferences for novel ingredients with various bioactivities, researchers are actively exploring the development of functional molecules, including synthetic molecules, natural molecules and bio-derived molecules, and they are also exploring the skin-care and hair-care properties of these substances. Additionally, delivery systems of the functional molecules, such as liposomes, nanolipid, noisomes and other novel emulsions, have been investigated and proven to be more efficient than conventional formulations.

For this Special Issue, we invite researchers to provide original research articles that report on the development and production of novel functional molecules such as synthetic molecules, natural compounds, products from microorganisms, or substances derived from these sources for potential cosmetic applications. In addition, articles reporting on the encapsulation and delivery technologies of the functional molecules for cosmetic formulation applications can be also submitted. We also invite the submission of biological properties and clinical studies demonstrating skin or hair-care applications and the related molecule mechanisms of these functional ingredients. Review articles discussing the current state of the art in the field of functional molecules for cosmetic applications are also welcome.

You may choose our Joint Special Issue in Molecules.

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • synthetic molecules
  • plant extracts
  • natural compounds
  • biotech-derived molecules
  • natural-derived molecules
  • fermentation-derived ingredients
  • biological activity
  • cosmetics
  • encapsulation and delivery technologies of ingredients
  • skin-care
  • hair-care

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Published Papers (2 papers)

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Research

14 pages, 665 KB  
Article
Topical Delivery of Calcium Silicate for Nail Health: A Clinical and Experimental Evaluation
by Viktoria Engqvist and Håkan Engqvist
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050196 - 9 Sep 2025
Viewed by 260
Abstract
Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based [...] Read more.
Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based formulation designed to enhance silicon bioavailability. The research comprises two key components: an in vitro assessment of calcium silicate dissolution and ion release, and a 28-day, single-arm, clinical evaluation of its effects on nail thickness and strength. Ion release studies demonstrated stable dissolution with significant silicon and calcium release. In the clinical study, the mean nail thickness score increased from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.09 ± 0.53, corresponding to a 39% mean improvement and nail strength scores improved from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.45 ± 0.67, reflecting a 64% average increase over 28 days of application (p < 0.001). The findings support the potential of targeted silicon delivery systems in cosmetic applications, offering an alternative to traditional oral supplementation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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20 pages, 1185 KB  
Communication
Anti-Aging Potential of Bioactive Peptides Derived from Casein Hydrolyzed with Kiwi Actinidin: Integration of In Silico and In Vitro Study
by Nicolas Caicedo, Lady L. Gamboa, Yhors Ciro, Constain H. Salamanca and Jose Oñate-Garzón
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050189 - 1 Sep 2025
Viewed by 699
Abstract
Background: Skin aging is mainly associated with oxidative stress and enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin by protease activity. Peptides have antioxidant capacity and inhibitory effects on protease enzymes. Objective: The purpose of this study was to obtain peptides with in vitro anti-aging [...] Read more.
Background: Skin aging is mainly associated with oxidative stress and enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin by protease activity. Peptides have antioxidant capacity and inhibitory effects on protease enzymes. Objective: The purpose of this study was to obtain peptides with in vitro anti-aging activity from the enzymatic hydrolysis of bovine casein with actinidin, a protease extracted from the green kiwi fruit (Actinidia deliciosa) Methodology: The enzyme actinidin was extracted from the pulp of the kiwi fruit, purified by ion exchange chromatography and characterized by polyacrylamide electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE). Subsequently, the extracted enzyme was used to hydrolyze commercial bovine casein at 37 °C for 30 min, precipitating the peptide fraction with trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and centrifuged. To determine the anti-aging potential of the peptides in vitro, antioxidant activity was evaluated using the ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) radical. Additionally, the inhibitory capacity of the peptides against collagenase and elastase enzymes was also studied. To complement the in vitro results, the enzymatic hydrolysis of casein with actinidin was simulated. The binding energy (ΔG) of each of the hydrolysates with the collagenase and elastase enzymes was calculated using molecular docking to predict the peptide sequences with the highest probability of interaction. Results: Actinidin was extracted and purified exhibiting a molecular weight close to 27 kDa. The enzyme hydrolyzed the substrate by 91.6%, and the resulting hydrolysates showed moderate in vitro anti-aging activity: antioxidant (17.5%), anticollagenase (18.55%), and antielastase (28.6%). In silico results revealed 66 peptide sequences of which 30.3% consisted of 4–8 amino acids, a suitable size to facilitate interaction with structural targets. The sequences with the highest affinity were FALPQYLK and VIPYVRYL for collagenase and elastase, respectively. Conclusions: Despite the modest inhibition values, the use of a fruit-derived enzyme and a food-grade substrate is in line with current trends in sustainable and natural cosmetics. These findings highlight the great potential for laying the groundwork for future research into actinidin-derived peptides as multifunctional and eco-conscious ingredients for the development of next-generation anti-aging formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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