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Cosmetics
Volume 12
Issue 6
10.3390/cosmetics12060278
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Article

Efficacy of a Mesotherapy-Inspired Cosmetic Serum vs. Meso-Injections: Proteomic Insights and Clinical Results

by
Nadège Durand
1,*,
Sayantani Goswani
2,
Roxane Henry
1,*,
Aaron Cohen
2,
Jin Namkoong
2,
Joanna Wu
2,
Karima Bourougaa
3 and
Lysianne Sanchez-Manoilov
1
1
Laboratoires Filorga, 75008 Paris, France
2
Skin Research and Innovation, Global Personal Care and Skin Health R&D, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Piscataway, NJ 08854, USA
3
CP Skin Health, 75008 Paris, France
*
Authors to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 278; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060278
Submission received: 3 November 2025 / Revised: 28 November 2025 / Accepted: 9 December 2025 / Published: 10 December 2025
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
Versions Notes

Abstract

 Aesthetic mesotherapy—the subcutaneous injection of key ingredients for cellular function—has gained popularity as a skin rejuvenation treatment. We developed a cosmetic serum, incorporating 11 ingredients frequently used in meso-injections that are partially encapsulated in multilamellar vesicles. We evaluated the ingredients, and their formulation into a topical serum and in mesotherapy injections, for their efficacy at modulating skin rejuvenation in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo. Proteomic profiling of skin explants subjected to a meso-injection identified 47 differentially regulated proteins, whereas topical ingredient applications modulated 149 proteins, predominantly by upregulating them. These proteins mapped to gene ontology pathways relating to ER-Golgi transport, protein trafficking, energy metabolism, integrin signalling, extracellular matrix organisation, and regulation of cell proliferation. The impact of some ingredient classes appeared pathway-specific, while broader responses possibly reflected synergistic interactions. Consistently, topical ingredient application increased ATP levels in reconstructed skin, suggesting enhanced metabolic activity. Clinically, twice-daily serum applications over 63 days yielded improvements in skin smoothness, complexion radiance and complexion homogeneity comparable to those observed after three meso-injections. However, results appeared to vary with age, and the combination of serum application with meso-injection may offer benefits, particularly for skin firmness, acting in combination with mesotherapy to improve skin quality. 
Keywords: skin; anti-ageing; skin quality; functional skin health; mesotherapy; cosmetics; proteomic skin; anti-ageing; skin quality; functional skin health; mesotherapy; cosmetics; proteomic

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MDPI and ACS Style

Durand, N.; Goswani, S.; Henry, R.; Cohen, A.; Namkoong, J.; Wu, J.; Bourougaa, K.; Sanchez-Manoilov, L. Efficacy of a Mesotherapy-Inspired Cosmetic Serum vs. Meso-Injections: Proteomic Insights and Clinical Results. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 278. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060278

AMA Style

Durand N, Goswani S, Henry R, Cohen A, Namkoong J, Wu J, Bourougaa K, Sanchez-Manoilov L. Efficacy of a Mesotherapy-Inspired Cosmetic Serum vs. Meso-Injections: Proteomic Insights and Clinical Results. Cosmetics. 2025; 12(6):278. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060278

Chicago/Turabian Style

Durand, Nadège, Sayantani Goswani, Roxane Henry, Aaron Cohen, Jin Namkoong, Joanna Wu, Karima Bourougaa, and Lysianne Sanchez-Manoilov. 2025. "Efficacy of a Mesotherapy-Inspired Cosmetic Serum vs. Meso-Injections: Proteomic Insights and Clinical Results" Cosmetics 12, no. 6: 278. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060278

APA Style

Durand, N., Goswani, S., Henry, R., Cohen, A., Namkoong, J., Wu, J., Bourougaa, K., & Sanchez-Manoilov, L. (2025). Efficacy of a Mesotherapy-Inspired Cosmetic Serum vs. Meso-Injections: Proteomic Insights and Clinical Results. Cosmetics, 12(6), 278. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060278

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