Cosmetics

26 pages, 2831 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of Microemulsion-Based Makeup Remover from Hemp Seed Oil

by Wansada Suttimas, Surapol Natakankitkul and Mathukorn Sainakham

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 199; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040199 - 7 Aug 2026

The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. [...] Read more.

The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. Hemp seed oil showed good oxidative stability (peroxide value = 1.87 ± 0.23 mEq/kg). It contained 0.134 ± 0.01 mg gallic acid equivalents/g of oil weight of phenolic compounds. The oil was rich in linoleic and α-linolenic acids and contained α-tocopherol. Microemulsions were prepared by combining hemp seed oil with castor oil (C:H) or sunflower oil (S:H) at three oil ratios and four surfactant HLB values (4.3–12). From 72 candidate formulations, only sunflower oil:hemp seed oil systems in the ratio of 3:7 and HLB of 9.5 showed the best overall balance of stability, maintaining droplet size, low PDI, and consistent viscosity/turbidity over 2 months of storage and heating–cooling cycle testing. This formulation also exhibited cleansing efficiency (ΔE = 9.64), which was slightly lower than a commercial cleansing oil (ΔE = 9.74). These results illustrate the potential of hemp seed oil to be developed into a stable, effective W/O microemulsion cleansing system for cosmetic application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, 2nd Edition)

18 pages, 2015 KB

Open AccessArticle

Preconditioning Human Skin Fibroblasts with 505 nm Blue–Green Light Reduces UVB-Induced Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers

by Nana Kanda, Sayuri Furuno, Hikaru Iwata, Nozomi Suga, Megumi Oya, Shota Suzuki, Kentaro Yamazaki and Ichiro Yajima

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 198; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040198 - 4 Aug 2026

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Abstract

Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm², 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm²) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm²). At 505 nm, [...] Read more.

Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm², 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm²) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm²). At 505 nm, the residual cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) burden measured 24 h after UVB was reduced when UVB followed immediately or after 3–24 h (with residual CPDs falling to approximately 67% of the UVB-alone level—an approximately 33% reduction—at the most effective 3.0 J/cm², 24 h condition), whereas protection was lost by 48 h. Under the 0 h interval condition, CPDs were also quantified immediately after UVB to compare the early CPD signal with the 24 h residual endpoint; all three visible wavelengths (505, 470 and 630 nm) lowered the immediate post-UVB signal, but only 505 nm preconditioning sustained the protective effect at the 24 h endpoint. Blue light (470 nm) produced a limited delayed benefit, whereas red light (630 nm) did not confer consistent protection and increased the residual CPD burden under selected conditions. Non-toxic 505 nm exposure primed an amplified NRF2/ARE response to subsequent UVB; XPC and XPD mRNAs rose at 2–6 h, while XPA and XPB declined early. Together, these findings support further evaluation of 505 nm blue–green light as a proof-of-concept, device-oriented strategy for timed photoprotection against UVB-induced photoaging; because these findings were obtained in a single dermal fibroblast model, they will require validation in keratinocytes and more complex skin systems before any practical application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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24 pages, 2345 KB

Open AccessReview

Biotics for Acne-Prone Skin and Scalp Disorders: A Scoping Review

by Gisele Mara Silva Gonçalves

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 197; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040197 - 4 Aug 2026

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Abstract

Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris and scalp disorders. Methods: A scoping search (2006–2026) covered SciELO, PubMed/PMC, Google Scholar, CAPES Portal, Scopus, Heliyon, Frontiers, Nature, Wiley, and MDPI, following PRISMA 2020 guidelines. Results: Of 1665 records, 66 were included. For acne, effective prebiotics included blackcurrant, grape seed, ginseng, trehalose, and glucomannan hydrolysate; effective probiotic strains included Streptococcus thermophilus, Bifidobacterium longum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Streptococcus salivarius. A synbiotic (B. breve BR03, Lacticaseibacillus casei LC03, Ligilactobacillus salivarius LS03) reduced inflammatory lesions by 56.67% in an 8-week RCT (n = 114). For scalp disorders, oral Lacticaseibacillus paracasei ST11 reduced dandruff by 70% vs. 23% (placebo); Lactiplantibacillus plantarum TCI999 increased hair root diameter (n = 50, 12 weeks); a Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus plus Bifidobacterium longum mixture improved alopecia areata by 56% vs. 30% (n = 26, 24 weeks). Conclusions: Biotic dermo-cosmetics can modulate the cutaneous microbiome and attenuate inflammation in acne and scalp disorders, with strongest evidence for multi-strain/synbiotic formulations. Formulation stability, strain specificity, regulatory heterogeneity, and lack of standardized microbiological endpoints remain key challenges; larger standardized RCTs with active comparators are needed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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16 pages, 10097 KB

Open AccessArticle

Trehalose in an Emulsion-Based Carrier: Effects on Skin Hydration and Transepidermal Water Loss

by Anna Czajkowska-Kośnik, Paulina Perkowska and Katarzyna Winnicka

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040196 - 4 Aug 2026

Viewed by 208

Abstract

Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of [...] Read more.

Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of this study was to develop dermatological emulsions with desirable physicochemical, rheological, mechanical, adhesive, and moisturizing properties for dry skin care. Six placebo emulsions, differing in emulsifier and oil compositions, were prepared and evaluated for stability, pH, viscosity, rheological behavior, texture, adhesion, and spreadability. Based on the results obtained, the formulation containing avocado oil and Olivem 1000 was selected as the optimal base for incorporating trehalose at concentrations of 1%, 2.5%, and 5%. The formulations were further evaluated in vivo using TEWL and corneometry measurements. All emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian shear-thinning and thixotropic properties. Regular application of the emulsions reduced TEWL by approximately 33%, while skin hydration increased up to 102%. However, discontinuation of the emulsion application resulted in decreased skin hydration and increased TEWL, suggesting the need for constant use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)

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23 pages, 1833 KB

Open AccessArticle

Ascorbic Acid and Its Hydrophilic Derivatives in Commercial Cosmetics: A Cross-Sectional Study of Their Quality Control and Stability

by Žane Temova Rakuša and Robert Roškar

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 195; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040195 - 2 Aug 2026

Viewed by 263

Abstract

Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed [...] Read more.

Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed to evaluate the content-related quality and stability of a comprehensive sample of commercial cosmetics. For this purpose, a selective HPLC-UV analytical method for their simultaneous determination was developed, validated, and applied to 41 products. The analysis revealed 0–31.7% (m/m) contents and inappropriate labeling in 22% of the products, including the absence and replacement of the labeled vitamin C form. Over half (57%) of the determined contents corresponded to the labels, which was claimed for 31 products, while the remaining contents were considerably lower (<80%). The stability study, performed on selected cosmetics and standard solutions under ambient and elevated temperatures, demonstrated instability, which could account for their inadequate content. Thus, the instability was found to be temperature-dependent and most pronounced for ascorbic acid, whereas the product price did not show a clear correlation with greater content or stability. Overall, these results highlight the need for proper quality control and stricter cosmetics regulation as well as formulation design to achieve sufficient stabilization, as observed in certain products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2054 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phytochemical Characterization and In Vitro Anti-Tyrosinase Activity of a Traditional Hypericum perforatum L. Olive Oil Macerate for Cosmetic Applications

by Melike Akgün, Ömerül Faruk Tavlı, Orçun Çınar, Alevcan Kaplan, Mehmet Boğa, Ercan Çınar, Serpil Demirci Kayıran and Esra Eroğlu Özkan

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 194; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040194 - 31 Jul 2026

Viewed by 169

Abstract

Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared [...] Read more.

Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared macerate of defined origin. The fatty acid composition, oxidative-stability indices, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, naphthodianthrone level, antioxidant capacity, and tyrosinase inhibition were determined, and the principal constituents were examined by molecular docking and in silico skin-permeation and toxicity profiling. The olive-oil matrix was oleic acid-dominated (73.9%) and oxidatively stable (iodine value 86.0; oxidizability index, COX, 1.84), while the macerate showed modest phenolic (

36.84 μ

g pyrocatechol equivalents, PCE/mg) and naphthodianthrone (0.044 mg/mL hypericin equivalents) contents. It showed limited antioxidant activity but moderate tyrosinase inhibition (38.75% at

200 μ

g/mL). Docking revealed that, despite high affinity scores, the naphthodianthrones lay 7–9 Å from the catalytic copper centre (an artefact of the scoring function), whereas fatty acids accessed the active site more closely, implicating the matrix in the observed activity. In silico profiling indicated that the photoactive naphthodianthrones are largely retained at the skin surface. These findings link this centuries-old preparation to a mechanistically informed understanding of its cosmetic potential. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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15 pages, 659 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phytochemical Screening and Antibacterial Activity of Jatropha multifida L. (Coral Bush) Leaf Extract-Based Soap Against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli

by Trixie Joy B. Gano and Ariel M. Alcones

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 193; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040193 - 29 Jul 2026

Viewed by 272

Abstract

The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v [...] Read more.

The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v) against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Antibacterial activity was determined using the Kirby–Bauer disk diffusion method alongside positive and negative controls. All extract-infused soap formulations exhibited distinct, measurable zones of inhibition (ZOI) ranging from 16.33 mm to 17.67 mm for S. aureus and 16.33 mm to 18.00 mm for E. coli, consistently achieving an “Active” qualitative classification. A one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) demonstrated highly significant differences across the entire dataset (p < 0.001). However, Tukey’s Honestly Significant Difference (HSD) post hoc test revealed no statistically significant differences in antibacterial performance among the 25%, 50%, and 75% concentrations (p > 0.05). This indicates a performance plateau caused by agar diffusion limits or micellar entrapment within the soap base. J. multifida maintains antibacterial integrity within a soap matrix, offering a viable plant-based antiseptic alternative against S. aureus and E. coli. Formulating at a 25% concentration represents the optimal commercial choice, maximizing antimicrobial performance while minimizing raw material costs. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 2033 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Triple-Helical Collagen Gel Modulates Electrophysiological Parameters in Isolated Rabbit Skin

by Dominika Dąbrowska-Wisłocka, Aleksandra Kalinoska, Olga Zavyalova, Beata Winiecka, Karolina Pisanko, Arkadiusz Jundziłł, Karolina Szewczyk-Golec and Iga Hołyńska-Iwan

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 192; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040192 - 29 Jul 2026

Viewed by 184

Abstract

Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps [...] Read more.

Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps maintain skin elasticity and hydration. Despite its broad application, the influence of collagen on epithelial ion transport remains insufficiently understood. This study evaluated the effect of a gel containing triple-helical collagen on sodium and chloride ion transport in the isolated rabbit skin. The collagen gel was applied to 25 skin specimens for 24 h and compared with 30 untreated control specimens. Electrophysiological analyses included measurements of transepithelial electrical potential (PD), electrical resistance (R), and potential changes during stimulation (PDmin and PDmax). Collagen gel significantly decreased R compared with control tissues, indicating altered tissue permeability. Collagen gel-treated tissues also exhibited a significantly more electropositive PDmin than controls, whereas PDmax values remained comparable between groups, suggesting that electrophysiological responsiveness was maintained under the experimental conditions. The observed electropositive shift in PDmin may reflect altered sodium ion transport. Whether these electrophysiological changes are associated with changes in tissue hydration requires direct investigation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)

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21 pages, 1657 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of a Tubtim Chumphae Rice Extract Facial Serum on Skin Biophysical Properties in Healthy Middle-Aged Adults: A Split-Face Controlled Clinical Trial

by Thapanee Roengrit, Thirapit Subongkot, Thanchanok Sirirak, Suwipa Intakhiao, Jatuporn Phoemsapthawee and Piyapong Prasertsri

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 191; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040191 - 25 Jul 2026

Viewed by 229

Abstract

This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face [...] Read more.

This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face for 12 weeks: (1) a serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract (treatment intervention) and (2) a standard serum formulation containing 2% α-arbutin (control intervention). Skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, melanin, and erythema were assessed at baseline and after the intervention using non-invasive skin measurement techniques. At baseline, no significant differences were observed between facial sides for any outcome. After 12 weeks, the side treated with the treatment intervention demonstrated significant within-side improvements in skin hydration at the forehead, skin elasticity at the cheeks and chin, and reductions in melanin and erythema in selected facial regions (all p < 0.05). However, paired split-face comparisons revealed that the treatment intervention produced significantly greater skin hydration at the cheek (mean difference = 3.88 AU, 95% CI: 0.23–7.53 AU, p = 0.039) and significantly greater skin elasticity at the forehead (mean difference = 0.090, 95% CI: 0.011–0.169, p = 0.028) compared with the control intervention. In addition, skin oiliness at the cheek was significantly lower on the side treated with the treatment intervention (mean difference = −6.62 µg/cm², 95% CI: −12.62 to −0.62 µg/cm², p = 0.032). No significant between-intervention differences were observed for melanin or erythema at any facial region. These findings suggest that topical application of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract may improve skin hydration and elasticity while reducing skin oiliness in healthy middle-aged adults. However, no significant advantages over a standard 2% α-arbutin serum were observed for skin pigmentation or erythema after 12 weeks of treatment. Clinical Trial Registration: ClinicalTrials.gov, NCT06475222. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic The Use of Natural Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Products: Advantages and Challenges)

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24 pages, 6950 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Optimization of a Nanoemulsion-Based Lip Balm Incorporating Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Catenella sp. for Enhanced Photoprotection

by Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Valentina Aranzazu Suárez, Santiago Andrés Barrero Salinas, Yoshie A. Hata, Daniel Cárdenas Ballesteros, Leonardo Castellanos and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 190; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040190 - 24 Jul 2026

Viewed by 483

Abstract

Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application [...] Read more.

Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application is limited by poor chemical stability in aqueous environments. Objective: The present study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion-based lip balm incorporating a MAAs-rich extract from Catenella sp., addressing stability limitations while enhancing photoprotective performance. Methods: A MAAs-rich extract was obtained and characterized by UHPLC-DAD, followed by cytotoxicity evaluation in NIH-3T3 fibroblasts and stability assessment under stress conditions. A water-in-oil (w/o) nanoemulsion was rationally developed using pseudo-ternary phase diagrams and optimized through a Box–Behnken experimental design, considering aqueous phase, surfactant mixture, and sonication time as key variables. The optimized nanoemulsion was subsequently incorporated into a lip balm matrix, which was formulated and optimized using a mixture design approach to evaluate thermal, mechanical, and sensory properties. Results: The extract exhibited a high MAAs content (9.53 mg g⁻¹ DW) and low cytotoxicity (IC₅₀ > 100 µg/mL), but pronounced hydrolytic instability, particularly under alkaline conditions, while remaining photostable. The optimized nanoemulsion achieved a droplet size below 200 nm and low polydispersity (PDI < 0.3). Importantly, incorporation of MAAs into nanoemulsion significantly enhanced the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), increasing from 16.1 (extract) to 35.4, while maintaining broad-spectrum UV coverage (λc = 380 nm). The blank nanoemulsion also contributed to UV attenuation, indicating a synergistic effect of the colloidal system. The optimized lip balm formulation (33% beeswax, 40% nanoemulsion, 22% shea butter, 1% candelilla wax, 4% carnauba wax) demonstrated suitable melting behavior, mechanical resistance, and high sensory acceptance. Conclusions: This study demonstrates that nanoemulsion-based structuring combined with statistical formulation design provides an effective strategy to stabilize MAAs and enhance their photoprotective efficacy, supporting the development of high-performance, natural sunscreen products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, 2nd Edition)

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14 pages, 22584 KB

Open AccessArticle

Taiwanofungus camphoratus-Derived Extracellular Vesicles as a Potential Cosmetic Bioactive Candidate for Protecting Keratinocytes from UVB-Induced Photoaging

by Han-Wen Hsieh, Mo-Rong Xu, Wen-Wei Hsiao and Sheng-Yang Wang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040189 - 24 Jul 2026

Viewed by 303

Abstract

Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs [...] Read more.

Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs isolated from liquid-cultured Taiwanofungus camphoratus mycelia (TCEVs) protect keratinocytes against UVB-induced damage. TCEVs displayed nanosized vesicular features with a mean particle size of 134.6 ± 4.6 nm and a stable negative surface charge. In HaCaT cells, TCEVs showed no obvious cytotoxicity and increased wound closure. In UVB-exposed keratinocytes, TCEV pretreatment improved cell viability, increased ATP production, reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species accumulation, and improved mitochondrial membrane potential. At the highest tested concentration (10 × 10¹⁰ particles/mL), TCEVs reduced UVB-induced relative ROS levels from 118.65% to 98.2% and increased relative ATP levels from 70.47% to 86.0%. TCEVs also increased the expression of ZO-1, occludin, and Claudin-3 and were associated with increased SIRT1 and p-AMPK expression and partial improvement of PGC-1α. In contrast, Nrf2 and TFAM did not differ significantly from the UVB-irradiated group. These findings support the potential of TCEVs to prevent UVB-induced keratinocyte damage under the present in vitro conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2878 KB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Characterization of Injectable Dermal Fillers: Physicochemical Properties, Cytotoxicity, Collagen-Stimulating Activity, and Macrophage Cytokine Profiles

by Seonhong Min, Gadug Han and Jaehyeon Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 188; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040188 - 23 Jul 2026

Viewed by 360

Abstract

Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem^®, cCaHA, PDLLA, [...] Read more.

Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem^®, cCaHA, PDLLA, PLLA, and PCL—with respect to particle morphology and size distribution, in vitro cytotoxicity, collagen-stimulating gene expression, and macrophage cytokine secretion profiles. Particle size and distribution were determined by laser diffraction. Cytotoxicity was assessed in L929 mouse fibroblasts using the CCK-8 assay at concentrations of 0.1–5 mg/mL. Collagen-stimulating activity was evaluated by measuring COL1A1 and COL3A2 mRNA expression in primary human fibroblasts via quantitative RT-PCR. Macrophage immune responses were profiled by a multiplexed cytokine array (40 analytes) in lipopolysaccharide/interferon-γ-polarised M1 and interleukin-4/interleukin-13-polarised M2 macrophages. Scanning electron microscopy revealed distinct morphological differences among the five products. PDLLA exhibited the smallest median particle size (d(0.5) = 24.9 μm) and highest specific surface area (701.4 m²/kg), while PLLA showed the broadest size distribution (Span = 1.617). All products maintained cell viability above 85% at all tested concentrations, indicating acceptable biocompatibility. Facetem^®, PDLLA, and PLLA significantly upregulated COL1A1 expression in human fibroblasts; PDLLA and Facetem^® also significantly increased COL3A2 expression. Cytokine profiling demonstrated that the products did not substantially alter pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion in M1 macrophages, whereas selected products at high concentrations modulated several mediators in M2 macrophages, suggesting a tissue-remodelling rather than inflammatory response. These findings demonstrate product-specific physicochemical and biological profiles that may guide clinician selection and formulation development of injectable dermal fillers. Facetem^® exhibited a favourable combination of biocompatibility, collagen-stimulating activity, and immune-modulatory properties comparable or superior to established reference products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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20 pages, 19192 KB

Open AccessArticle

Discovery of Multifunctional Probiotic Strains with Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, Antimicrobial, and Skin Barrier-Supportive Activities for Postbiotic Cosmetic Applications

by Jeong-Hoo Lee, Jia Yoo, Young-Youn Kim and Hye-Sung Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 187; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040187 - 23 Jul 2026

Viewed by 568

Abstract

Probiotic strains with multifunctional skin-beneficial properties represent promising candidates for next-generation cosmetic ingredients. In this study, a systematic stepwise screening strategy was applied to an in-house bacterial library comprising 302 isolates to identify candidates with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wound-healing, and skin barrier-supportive activities. [...] Read more.

Probiotic strains with multifunctional skin-beneficial properties represent promising candidates for next-generation cosmetic ingredients. In this study, a systematic stepwise screening strategy was applied to an in-house bacterial library comprising 302 isolates to identify candidates with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wound-healing, and skin barrier-supportive activities. From this library, 33 strains were selected based on preliminary assessments and subjected to comprehensive in vitro evaluation. Cell viability and cytotoxicity assays confirmed the safety of all selected strains in RAW264.7 macrophages and HaCaT keratinocytes. Several strains exhibited strong DPPH radical scavenging activity and significantly inhibited nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated macrophages. Among the selected candidates, Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus DM073 demonstrated the most potent anti-inflammatory activity, whereas Lactiplantibacillus plantarum DM043 exhibited the greatest wound-healing capacity. All five selected strains displayed antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes. Furthermore, selected strains, particularly Lactiplantibacillus plantarum DM175 and Ligilactobacillus salivarius DM079, enhanced the expression of skin barrier-related genes, including zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1), occludin (OCLN), claudin-1 (Cla-1), and filaggrin (FLG), and partially restored their expression under TNF-α/IFN-γ-induced inflammatory conditions. Selected strains also reduced the expression of inflammatory chemokines in stimulated keratinocytes. Collectively, these findings demonstrate that the selected probiotic strains possess complementary multifunctional activities associated with skin health. In particular, DM073 exhibited superior anti-inflammatory activity, DM043 showed strong wound-healing potential, and DM175 demonstrated remarkable skin barrier-supportive effects. These strain-specific properties support their potential application in the development of probiotic-derived postbiotic cosmetic ingredients for skin soothing, barrier reinforcement, skin recovery, and microbiome-friendly skincare formulations. Further studies are warranted to evaluate their efficacy and safety in advanced skin models and clinical cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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20 pages, 1211 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Effect of Antioxidants on the Photoinduced Degradation of Sunscreens

by Dávid Laššák, Patrícia Jackuliaková, Daniel Krchňák, Mária Čuchorová and Miroslava Špaglová

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 186; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040186 - 23 Jul 2026

Viewed by 462

Abstract

The stability of sunscreen formulations is a key factor influencing their protective efficacy and safety, particularly under UV exposure, which can induce photodegradation of UV filters. (1) Background: This study aimed to evaluate the effect of selected antioxidants (stabilized vitamin C, carrot macerate, [...] Read more.

The stability of sunscreen formulations is a key factor influencing their protective efficacy and safety, particularly under UV exposure, which can induce photodegradation of UV filters. (1) Background: This study aimed to evaluate the effect of selected antioxidants (stabilized vitamin C, carrot macerate, and ferulic acid) on the sun protection factor (SPF) and photostability of sunscreen formulations. (2) Methods: Four oil-in-water creams with identical compositions, except for the antioxidant type, were prepared and characterized in terms of SPF, rheological behavior, pH, conductivity, stability, and sensory properties. SPF was determined using an in vitro spectrophotometric method before and after UV irradiation (30 and 120 min). (3) Results: Antioxidant incorporation increased initial SPF, with ferulic acid providing the most significant enhancement. After UV exposure, all formulations exhibited a decrease in SPF. However, the formulation containing ferulic acid maintained the highest absolute SPF value, indicating superior photostability. In contrast, vitamin C showed the greatest reduction in SPF, suggesting lower stability under irradiation. Physical characterization confirmed appropriate properties of the formulations, and sensory analysis identified the ferulic acid formulation as the most acceptable. (4) Conclusions: Ferulic acid demonstrated the most favorable impact on sunscreen performance, suggesting its potential as an effective multifunctional ingredient in sunscreens. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 1604 KB

Open AccessArticle

In Vitro Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Crithmum maritimum for Anti-Aging Skin Care

by Anthony Groso, Paul Jabet, Yue Zhang, Yanshan Xie, Ping Wang, Zejian Wang, Richard Daniellou and Guillaume Collet

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 185; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040185 - 22 Jul 2026

Viewed by 375

Abstract

Background and objective: A huge part of cosmetics research is devoted to the identification of new molecules and new ingredients which could prevent skin aging. Crithmum maritimum has attracted interest in the cosmetic field because it has been used since antiquity in traditional [...] Read more.

Background and objective: A huge part of cosmetics research is devoted to the identification of new molecules and new ingredients which could prevent skin aging. Crithmum maritimum has attracted interest in the cosmetic field because it has been used since antiquity in traditional medicine and is traditionally consumed in Mediterranean regions. However, data about demonstrated efficacy on living cells remain sparse. To better understand the potential of this plant for the cosmetics industry, we aimed to investigate in vitro some key properties in line with anti-aging skin care. Methods and results: Molecular results demonstrated an impressive antioxidant effect which was confirmed in vitro on living keratinocytes with a decrease of 50% of oxidative stress measured with the fluorescent CM-H₂DCFDA probe. Additionally, an inhibitory effect around 20% was observed on isolated collagenase and elastase, highlighting the ability of C. maritimum to preserve the skin matrix. Lastly, anti-inflammatory properties were explored at protein levels by ELISA method, indicating a clear decrease of six inflammatory mediators, IL-6, IL-8, IL-18, CXCL9, CXCL10, and CCL5, on stressed keratinocytes. These observed decreases span from 20% up to 75% in the case of the IL-18. Conclusions: All together, these results reveal how efficient C. maritimum extract could be to alleviate signs of aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic Oxidative Stress and Inflammation, 3rd Edition)

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15 pages, 2258 KB

Open AccessReview

Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles for Cosmetic and Regenerative Applications: Current Evidence, Research Trends, and Future Perspectives

by Yury Shkryl, Elena Vasyutkina and Yulia Yugay

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 184; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040184 - 18 Jul 2026

Viewed by 418

Abstract

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs), also referred to as plant exosomes or exosome-like nanovesicles, have emerged as promising natural bioactive nanoparticles for cosmetic and regenerative applications. Owing to their biocompatibility, intrinsic bioactive cargo, and ability to interact with mammalian cells, PDEVs are increasingly investigated [...] Read more.

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs), also referred to as plant exosomes or exosome-like nanovesicles, have emerged as promising natural bioactive nanoparticles for cosmetic and regenerative applications. Owing to their biocompatibility, intrinsic bioactive cargo, and ability to interact with mammalian cells, PDEVs are increasingly investigated as agents for skin rejuvenation, wound healing, photoprotection, pigmentation control, and skin barrier enhancement. However, the available evidence remains fragmented across different plant sources and experimental models. This review aimed to summarize and critically evaluate the current evidence regarding the cosmetic and regenerative properties of PDEVs. Experimental studies investigating the effects of PDEVs on skin cells, reconstructed skin models, animals, or human subjects were systematically identified and analyzed. The available evidence consistently demonstrated that PDEVs promote skin regeneration and tissue repair. The most frequently reported effects included enhanced keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation and migration, accelerated wound closure, increased collagen synthesis, reduced oxidative stress, activation of antioxidant defense pathways, and suppression of inflammatory responses. Additional studies reported improvements in skin barrier function, hydration, photoprotection, pigmentation control, and cellular senescence. Collectively, the available studies demonstrate consistent regenerative, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective effects of PDEVs. Overall, PDEVs represent multifunctional bioactive nanomaterials with substantial potential for cosmetic applications. While clinical translation remains limited by regulatory and standardization challenges, cosmetic use appears to offer a more immediate route toward commercialization. Further standardization, mechanistic studies, and clinical investigations are required to support the broader implementation of PDEV-based technologies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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14 pages, 878 KB

Open AccessArticle

Oral Probiotic Supplementation Improves Skin Aging Biomarkers: An 8-Week Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial

by Francesca De Gennaro, Enza Cestone and Vincenzo Nobile

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 183; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040183 - 18 Jul 2026

Viewed by 395

Abstract

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and growing evidence suggests that nutritional interventions, particularly probiotics, may modulate key biological pathways involved in skin barrier function, hydration, and oxidative stress through the gut–skin axis. Methods: In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled [...] Read more.

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and growing evidence suggests that nutritional interventions, particularly probiotics, may modulate key biological pathways involved in skin barrier function, hydration, and oxidative stress through the gut–skin axis. Methods: In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, 66 adults received a probiotic formulation containing Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus LRH020, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PBS067, and Limosilactobacillus reuteri PBS072 for 56 days, followed by a 28-day follow-up. Skin structure, function, and oxidative status were assessed using 3D profilometry, high-frequency ultrasound, corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), FRAP assay, and expert clinical scoring. Results: Compared with placebo, the probiotic group showed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−15.0% at T56), and roughness (−6.1% at T56). Moreover, other skin parameters were significantly enhanced by the end of treatment, including greater skin density, hydration, and antioxidant capacity, alongside a reduction in TEWL. Improvements persisted at follow-up, suggesting a durable, lasting benefit of the probiotic formulation beyond the treatment period. Conclusions: These findings support the role of targeted probiotic supplementation as a promising strategy to improve structural, functional, and oxidative markers of skin aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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25 pages, 3774 KB

Open AccessReview

Agro-Industrial Residues as Sources of Dermo-Cosmetic Enzyme Inhibitors: Extraction Strategies, Matrix Effects, and Cosmetic Potential

by Amanda Rubia de Figueiredo Trindade, Samanta Shiraishi Kagueyama, Isadora de Brito Hilario, Luís Felipe Oliva dos Santos, José Rivaldo dos Santos Filho, Rúbia Carvalho Gomes Corrêa, Cristina Giatti Marques de Souza, Adelar Bracht and Rosane Marina Peralta

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 182; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040182 - 17 Jul 2026

Viewed by 429

Abstract

Agro-industrial residues have emerged as promising sources of bioactive compounds for dermo-cosmetic applications, particularly as inhibitors of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. However, the interpretation of reported inhibitory activities is frequently complicated by variations in extraction strategies, matrix composition, assay design, and methodological [...] Read more.

Agro-industrial residues have emerged as promising sources of bioactive compounds for dermo-cosmetic applications, particularly as inhibitors of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. However, the interpretation of reported inhibitory activities is frequently complicated by variations in extraction strategies, matrix composition, assay design, and methodological rigor. This critical narrative review examines how these factors collectively influence the reliability, comparability, and translational relevance of enzyme inhibition data obtained from residue-derived extracts. The literature was analyzed using a framework-oriented approach based on representative peer-reviewed studies selected according to their methodological quality, experimental design, and mechanistic relevance. The analysis integrates three complementary dimensions: extraction and processing strategies, compositional complexity of the recovered matrices, and evidence quality supporting the reported bioactivities. The reviewed literature demonstrates that enzyme inhibition is rarely an intrinsic property of isolated compounds but rather an emergent behavior arising from complex physicochemical systems in which synergistic interactions, matrix effects, and assay-dependent artefacts frequently influence the observed responses. The widespread reliance on simplified in vitro screening methods, often without dose–response evaluation, kinetic characterization, or adequate control of assay interference, remains a major obstacle to reproducibility and cross-study comparison. Based on this analysis, an integrative framework is proposed to guide the interpretation of enzyme inhibition in complex botanical extracts by explicitly linking process design, matrix composition, and methodological evidence. This perspective provides a more robust basis for the identification, validation, and industrial translation of sustainable bioactive ingredients obtained from agro-industrial residues for next-generation dermo-cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic The Use of Natural Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Products: Advantages and Challenges)

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44 pages, 2694 KB

Open AccessReview

Eye Cosmetics and Ocular Surface Diseases: An Emerging Concern in Modern Aesthetic Practices

by Basanta Bhujel, Kyu Sang Eah, Soon Suk Kang, Ho Seok Chung, Hun Lee and Jae-Yong Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040181 - 16 Jul 2026

Viewed by 467

Abstract

Eye cosmetics, including eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyebrow products, are widely used to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the eyes. While generally considered safe, their application to the delicate periocular region can pose significant risks to ocular surface health. Growing clinical and experimental [...] Read more.

Eye cosmetics, including eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyebrow products, are widely used to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the eyes. While generally considered safe, their application to the delicate periocular region can pose significant risks to ocular surface health. Growing clinical and experimental evidence links the use of eye cosmetics to ocular surface disorders, including blepharitis, conjunctivitis, dry eye syndrome, and meibomian gland dysfunction. These adverse effects may result from mechanical irritation, chemical exposure, microbial contamination, or allergic reactions associated with cosmetic ingredients such as pigments, preservatives, emulsifiers, and fragrances. In addition, emerging periocular aesthetic procedures and novel formulations containing nanoparticles and complex additives may further contribute to ocular surface instability and inflammation. The growing popularity of eye cosmetics, influenced by social media, cultural trends, and the global beauty industry, underscores the importance of understanding their impact on ocular health. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the composition, types, ocular migration, and potential adverse effects of eye cosmetics and periocular aesthetic practices. By highlighting the clinical implications of cosmetic use on the ocular surface, this study emphasizes the need for evidence-based guidance, safe cosmetic practices, and further research to mitigate lifestyle-related ocular risks. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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32 pages, 2099 KB

Open AccessReview

Macromolecular Fragmentation on the Skin Surface: Formation Mechanisms, Evidence Limitations, and Potential Relevance for Skin Homeostasis

by Keran Jia, Xiao Ning, Liya Song and Jin Cao

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 180; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040180 - 14 Jul 2026

Viewed by 422

Abstract

The skin surface is a dynamic biochemical interface where proteins, polysaccharides, lipids, and microbial or environmental molecules are continuously exposed to ultraviolet(UV) radiation, oxidative stress, mechanical stimulation, pH variation, host-derived enzymes, and microbial enzymes. These factors can generate heterogeneous macromolecular fragments on the [...] Read more.

The skin surface is a dynamic biochemical interface where proteins, polysaccharides, lipids, and microbial or environmental molecules are continuously exposed to ultraviolet(UV) radiation, oxidative stress, mechanical stimulation, pH variation, host-derived enzymes, and microbial enzymes. These factors can generate heterogeneous macromolecular fragments on the skin surface through cleavage, oxidation, structural modification, or enzymatic degradation. However, current evidence does not support interpreting these fragments uniformly as active regulatory molecules. Instead, they should be considered a mixed molecular population that may include passive degradation products, stress-associated markers, host- or microbiome-derived cleavage products and, in some contexts, molecules with potential biological activity. This review summarizes current knowledge on the formation mechanisms, analytical detection, and possible biological relevance of skin surface macromolecular fragments, with emphasis on hyaluronic acid, collagen, keratin, lipids, and microbiome-associated fragments. Evidence from in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies is distinguished to clarify the strengths and limitations of current interpretations. Particular attention is given to contradictory findings, concentration-dependent effects, source attribution, contamination, matrix interference, lack of reference standards, and insufficient functional validation. Overall, skin surface macromolecular fragmentation is better viewed as an emerging analytical and biological framework rather than as a proven regulatory mechanism. Future studies should combine standardized sampling, validated mass spectrometry(MS) workflows, multi-omics integration, reconstructed skin models, microbiota-related models, and controlled human studies to determine whether specific fragments are degradation products, biomarkers, or context-dependent functional molecules. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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21 pages, 12163 KB

Open AccessArticle

HA20, a Broad-Molecular-Weight Hyaluronic Acid Complex, Supports Transepidermal Bioavailability and Multi-Stress Barrier Protection in Human Skin Models

by Zheng Wang, Yumei Fan, Luxian Zhou, Dandan Jiang, Jiajun Qian and Peixue Ling

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 179; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040179 - 13 Jul 2026

Viewed by 508

Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely used in skincare, but its efficacy varies with molecular weight (MW), affecting its skin penetration and activity. This study examined whether HA20, a broad-MW HA complex (weight-average MW: 188 kDa, 10–1000 kDa), improves skin absorption and shields human [...] Read more.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely used in skincare, but its efficacy varies with molecular weight (MW), affecting its skin penetration and activity. This study examined whether HA20, a broad-MW HA complex (weight-average MW: 188 kDa, 10–1000 kDa), improves skin absorption and shields human skin models from environmental stress. HA transepidermal bioavailability, extracellular-matrix responses, glyoxal-induced Nε-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML), UVA-induced mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP) loss, Th2 cytokine-induced markers, and dryness-induced barrier changes were assessed in reconstructed human epidermis, dermal fibroblasts, and epidermal keratinocytes. HA20 exhibited greater apparent permeation detectable by ELISA at all time points during the 24 h RHE assay compared to high-MW HA. In fibroblasts, 0.05% HA20 increased type I collagen secretion from 535.20 to 585.47 pg/mL and elastin from 8.68 to 9.24 pg/mL, reduced CML fluorescence to 70.13% of the glyoxal control, and increased MMP-associated fluorescence from 58.76% in the UVA model group to 298.86%. In keratinocytes, 0.1% HA20 reduced IL-4/IL-13-induced NELL2 and CAII expression. Under acute dryness, HA20 maintained stratum corneum morphology and altered transcriptomic signatures related to epidermal differentiation, extracellular matrix organization, and barrier-associated genes, including KRT37, COL7A1, ACER2, and SPRR1A. These findings suggest that HA20 supports barrier resilience mainly through improved transepidermal delivery and ECM or barrier-repair responses. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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18 pages, 1668 KB

Open AccessArticle

Heat-Treated Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus Skinbac™ SB06 Modulates Axillary Malodor-Associated Bacteria In Vitro and Demonstrates Antiperspirant and Deodorant Efficacy In Vivo

by Giovanni Deusebio, Annalisa Visciglia, Angela Amoruso and Marco Pane

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 178; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040178 - 10 Jul 2026

Viewed by 838

Abstract

Background: The axillary microbiome is a major contributor to body malodor generation through bacterial metabolism of apocrine and eccrine secretions. Dysbiosis of this microbial community, particularly through overgrowth of odorigenic species such as Staphylococcus aureus, is associated with increased volatile compound [...] Read more.

Background: The axillary microbiome is a major contributor to body malodor generation through bacterial metabolism of apocrine and eccrine secretions. Dysbiosis of this microbial community, particularly through overgrowth of odorigenic species such as Staphylococcus aureus, is associated with increased volatile compound production and local skin inflammation. Heat-treated postbiotics represent a promising class of cosmetic ingredients combining microbiological safety with retained bioactive properties. Objective: We aimed to evaluate the in vitro safety, molecular mechanisms, antipathogen and anti-inflammatory properties of heat-treated Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus Skinbac™ SB06, and to assess the antiperspirant and deodorant efficacy of a deodorant spray formulation containing 1% SB06 in a controlled clinical study. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cytotoxicity (MTT/LDH assays), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, antipathogen activity against Staphylococcus aureus (AlamarBlue assay), cytokine modulation (TNF-α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-23) in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and Peripheral Blood Mononuclear Cells (PBMCs), and axillary microbiome compatibility against Corynebacterium striatum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Staphylococcus hominis by viable plate count (CFU/mL). Clinically, a randomized split-body study (n = 20) evaluated antiperspirant effectiveness by gravimetric sweat collection and deodorant efficacy by expert olfactory panel (Likert 1–5) at 24 and 48 h. Results: In vitro testing confirmed the safety of SB06 (MTT and LDH, both non-significant vs. control). SB06 significantly increased AQP3 expression (+20%, p < 0.001) and significantly reduced ROS production (−48%, p < 0.05). Antipathogen testing showed significant reduction in S. aureus planktonic viability (−7%, p < 0.05). Microbiome compatibility testing on selected axillary-associated strains showed a differential compatibility profile, with the strongest inhibitory effect observed for C. striatum (13% residual viability at T24h, corresponding to 87% inhibition), near-complete preservation of S. epidermidis (92% residual viability at T48h), and a mild reduction in S. hominis (−15% at T48h). Cytokine modulation showed significant IL-8 and IL-23 reduction in NHEK (both p ≤ 0.05) and immunostimulatory activity in PBMCs. Clinically, SB06 reduced sweat production vs. placebo by −21.8% at T24 (p = 0.0009) and −10.0% at T48 (p = 0.0495), with significantly lower odor intensity at both timepoints (median score 3 vs. 4, p < 0.0001). Conclusions: Heat-treated L. rhamnosus SB06 showed a multimodal in vitro profile including antipathogen, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and AQP3-upregulating activities, and was associated with statistically significant antiperspirant and deodorant effects in a randomized controlled split-body study. These findings are consistent with SB06 being a functional postbiotic ingredient with potential for deodorant and antiperspirant applications, pending confirmation in larger controlled studies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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19 pages, 7301 KB

Open AccessArticle

Rejuvenating Complex of Hyaluronic Acid, Amino Acids and Vitamins Promotes Cutaneous Microcirculation in Human Skin

by Gabriel Siquier-Dameto, Pere Boadas-Vaello and Enrique Verdú

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 177; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040177 - 10 Jul 2026

Viewed by 572

Abstract

Background: Cutaneous microcirculation is crucial for skin appearance and rejuvenation, influencing color, luminosity and texture. Aging reduces microcirculation and alters skin color parameters. This study investigated the long-term effects of intradermal CellBooster^® Lift (CBL), a mechanically stabilized hyaluronic acid complex enriched [...] Read more.

Background: Cutaneous microcirculation is crucial for skin appearance and rejuvenation, influencing color, luminosity and texture. Aging reduces microcirculation and alters skin color parameters. This study investigated the long-term effects of intradermal CellBooster^® Lift (CBL), a mechanically stabilized hyaluronic acid complex enriched with amino acids and vitamins, on skin microcirculation, color, and aesthetics in healthy adults. This study was registered at clinicaltrial.gov (NCT06000839). Methods: 36 women and 4 men aged 35–55 received three intradermal injections of 3 mL CBL across the face at two-week intervals. Cutaneous microcirculation was assessed using a PeriFlux 5000^® laser Doppler system at 7 and 84 days post-treatment. Skin color parameters, including lightness (L*), redness (a*), yellow-blue component (b*), individual typology angle (ITA°), individual whitening angle (IWA°), color homogeneity (H76), saturation, and luminance-saturation ratio, were analyzed using Visia^® CR 2D imaging. Aesthetic improvement was evaluated by both participants and medical practitioners using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS). Results: At 84 days post-treatment, CBL significantly enhanced cutaneous microcirculation and induced favorable changes in all measured skin color parameters: L*, ITA°, IWA°, and luminance-saturation ratio increased, while a*, b*, H76, and saturation decreased in women, but no changes were seen in men. No significant differences were observed between female age groups. On the GAIS, approximately 70–73% of participants reported improvement or significant improvement, while medical practitioners rated improvement in up to 93% of cases. Conclusions: Intradermal CBL administration improves cutaneous microcirculation and skin color characteristics, contributing to a more youthful appearance in adults aged 35–55, with consistent effects across age groups and high subjective and clinical aesthetic ratings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 3235 KB

Open AccessArticle

Instrumental and Patient-Reported Assessment of Skin Changes During a 90-Day Dermocosmetic Regimen: A Prospective Single-Arm Observational Study

by Zoran Golušin, Bojana Spasić, Nemanja Maletin, Nikola Denda, Marija Ranđelović, Maša Golubović, Iva Binić and Ivana Binić

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 176; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040176 - 10 Jul 2026

Viewed by 471

Abstract

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that alter skin texture and microrelief. Non-invasive imaging techniques enable objective longitudinal assessment of these characteristics. This study aimed to instrumentally and subjectively evaluate skin surface changes during a standardized 90-day dermocosmetic regimen [...] Read more.

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that alter skin texture and microrelief. Non-invasive imaging techniques enable objective longitudinal assessment of these characteristics. This study aimed to instrumentally and subjectively evaluate skin surface changes during a standardized 90-day dermocosmetic regimen containing multiple active ingredients. Methods: This prospective, single-arm observational study included 47 women aged 30–60 years with visible signs of facial skin aging. Participants applied a standardized anti-age serum and cream regimen twice daily for 90 days. Skin surface morphology was assessed at baseline and after 30, 60, and 90 days using Visioscan^® VC 20plus imaging with SELS^® software. Subjective outcomes were evaluated using a structured product questionnaire and the validated Skindex-16 instrument. Results: Significant temporal changes were observed across objective skin surface parameters. From baseline to day 90, mean skin roughness decreased from 4.99 ± 2.29 to 1.66 ± 0.67, while the wrinkle-related parameter decreased from 191.08 ± 87.26 to 74.27 ± 15.25. Reductions were also observed in scaliness, contrast, entropy, variance, and anisotropy, whereas smoothness, homogeneity, and energy increased over time. Skindex-16 scores decreased across Symptoms, Emotions, and Functioning domains, indicating lower participant-reported dermatology-related burden. The regimen was well tolerated, with no serious adverse events reported. Conclusions: In this exploratory single-arm observational study, the standardized dermocosmetic regimen was associated with measurable longitudinal changes in Visioscan-derived skin surface parameters and patient-reported outcomes over 90 days. Because the study included no control group, the findings cannot establish causality or isolate the contribution of individual regimen components. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)

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19 pages, 1975 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Preliminary Study Evaluating the Potential of a Topical Hydrating Formulation Enriched with Platelet-Rich Plasma for Improving Skin Texture

by Cristina-Ionela Stănciulescu, Andreea-Roxana Ungureanu, Virgil Pătrașcu, Cornelia Bejenaru, Marilena-Viorica Hovaneţ and Gabi Topor

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 175; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040175 - 8 Jul 2026

Viewed by 470

Abstract

Intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging alter skin structure and function, while hydrating products and regenerative therapies such as platelet-rich plasma (PRP) support the restoration of skin homeostasis and clinical appearance. This in vivo study aimed to evaluate whether a combination of a hydrating [...] Read more.

Intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging alter skin structure and function, while hydrating products and regenerative therapies such as platelet-rich plasma (PRP) support the restoration of skin homeostasis and clinical appearance. This in vivo study aimed to evaluate whether a combination of a hydrating cream and PRP improves skin texture. Three groups of participants were treated over 90 days with hydrating cream, intradermal PRP, and hydrating cream enriched with PRP (HC-PRP). The evaluation was conducted by dermoanalysis at each 30 days with two main indices, moisture and texture, and six complementary indices, oil, complexion, 3D, pigment, phlogosis, and pores. The best texture outcomes were observed in the HC-PRP group, which showed a significant improvement over time and better results than the cream alone (significant after Bonferroni correction). For the moisture index, the hydrating cream alone gave the largest increase, consistent with its primary action, although HC-PRP was also associated with a moderate increase. These exploratory results point to a potential benefit of the HC-PRP combination for skin texture and offer a starting point for future research. Further randomized studies on larger samples are required to validate these observations and to establish the contribution of PRP. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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26 pages, 4543 KB

Open AccessArticle

Physicochemical and In Vitro Biological Characterization of Usnea barbata Extract in Karanja Oil for Potential Applications in Skincare

by Mihaela Afrodita Dan, Emma Adriana Ozon, Denisa Margina, Marina Ionela Nedea, Claudia Maria Guțu, Anca Ungurianu, George Mihai Nițulescu, Violeta Popovici, Adina Magdalena Musuc, Veronica Bratan, Mihai Anastasescu, Ioana Cristina Marinas, Daniela Luiza Baconi, Andreea Letitia Arsene, Dumitru Lupuliasa and Eugen Tarta

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 174; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040174 - 5 Jul 2026

Viewed by 1394

Abstract

Plant extracts in vegetable oils are foundational and eco-responsible for skin care, combining their emollient properties with other additional benefits, derived from their antioxidant, antimicrobial and UV-absorbing activity. The present research conducted a complex investigation of Usnea barbata extract in Karanja oil (KO), [...] Read more.

Plant extracts in vegetable oils are foundational and eco-responsible for skin care, combining their emollient properties with other additional benefits, derived from their antioxidant, antimicrobial and UV-absorbing activity. The present research conducted a complex investigation of Usnea barbata extract in Karanja oil (KO), aiming for its further incorporation into various cosmetic formulations. The lichen extract (UBKO) was obtained through cold maceration. Phytochemical screening was performed using the Folin–Ciocalteu method and Graphite Furnace Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry (GFAAS). Physicochemical properties were evaluated via Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM). The rheological behavior and oxidative stability of the oil samples, UBKO and KO, were also investigated. UBKO had a slightly lower density (0.827 vs. 0.955) and pH (4.22 vs. 4.86) than KO, and a slightly higher oxidative resistance, quantified as the induction period (IP) value (6.45 vs. 6.00). The total phenolic-equivalent content (TPC, µg GAE/mL oil sample) was significantly greater in UBKO than in KO (567.16 ± 14.96 vs. 433.26 ± 22.96, p = 0.001). The values of minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC, mg/mL) indicated significantly higher antibacterial effect against S. aureus and antifungal effect against C. albicans for UBKO than KO (9.62 ± 2.87 vs. 31.25 ± 18.75, p = 0.049, and, respectively, 5.06 ± 1.68 vs. 37.50 ± 12.50, p = 0.01). Finally, our results showed that UBKO had an estimated sun-protective factor (SPF) of 30.9, slightly higher than 29.8 for the base oil formulation, KO; these findings represent baseline in vitro UV-absorbing trends. All of these results suggest that U. barbata extract in Karanja oil may exhibit complementary bioactive properties with potential applications in skincare. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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23 pages, 2392 KB

Open AccessArticle

Formulating Cod Liver Oil Nanoemulsions for Topical Application: A Multifactorial Study Linking Formulation Design to Physicochemical Stability, Oxidative Integrity and In Vitro Cytotoxicity

by Anna Iacovou, Chrysi Chaikali, Sophia Letsiou, Εvangelos Papaspyros, Michael Kornaros, Fotini N. Lamari, Konstantinos Avgoustakis and Sophia Hatziantoniou

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 173; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040173 - 5 Jul 2026

Viewed by 550

Abstract

Cod liver oil is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) but is highly susceptible to oxidative degradation, limiting its use in topical formulations. This study aimed to develop stable cod liver oil nanoemulsions for topical application and to evaluated the influence [...] Read more.

Cod liver oil is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) but is highly susceptible to oxidative degradation, limiting its use in topical formulations. This study aimed to develop stable cod liver oil nanoemulsions for topical application and to evaluated the influence of surfactant ratio (lecithin/PEG-15 hydroxystearate: 2.5:1 and 1:1, w/w), emulsification method (ultrasonication or high-pressure homogenization), and vitamin E acetate supplementation on their physicochemical properties and oxidative stability. Eight nanoemulsions were characterized in terms of droplet size, polydispersity, ζ-potential, vitamin E acetate encapsulation efficiency, oxidative stability, film-forming capacity and cytocompatibility. Among the investigated formulations, F4 (2.5:1 lecithin/PEG-15 hydroxystearate, high-pressure homogenization, with vitamin E acetate) exhibited the most favorable characteristics, including a mean droplet size of 67.95 nm, ζ-potential of −63.12 mV and vitamin E acetate encapsulation efficiency of 32.59%. The formulation demonstrated good physicochemical stability under thermal, mechanical and photostability testing, improved oxidative stability, transient film-forming behavior with an initial occlusive effect, and no cytotoxicity toward human dermal fibroblasts. These findings indicate that nanoemulsion performance depends on the combined influence of formulation composition and processing conditions, with F4 representing a promising topical carrier for cod liver oil intended for interaction with the stratum corneum. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 1800 KB

Open AccessArticle

Beyond Nano-Delivery: Synerjet-Assisted Transdermal Delivery of Nano-Formulated Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (Nano-NMN) for Comprehensive Skin Rejuvenation

by Wonkyu Hong, Jaewoo Kim, Seongmin Noh, Joonho Shim, Seok-Kwang Park and Mihwa Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 172; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040172 - 3 Jul 2026

Viewed by 659

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate whether the Synerjet system can maximize the transdermal delivery and skin rejuvenation of nano-NMN. In a 4-week split-face trial (n = 21), this combination demonstrated marked clinical superiority over topical nano-NMN alone (p < 0.001), yielding enhanced [...] Read more.

This study aimed to evaluate whether the Synerjet system can maximize the transdermal delivery and skin rejuvenation of nano-NMN. In a 4-week split-face trial (n = 21), this combination demonstrated marked clinical superiority over topical nano-NMN alone (p < 0.001), yielding enhanced improvements in wrinkles (with 170.56% relative improvement in periorbital and 154.45% in nasolabial region compared to the control group), pore volume (176.62%), and deep hydration (188.02%). Regarding dermal integrity, the test group showed a 111.56% superior increment in skin elasticity and a 149.75% more effective optimization of melanin intensity relative to the control. Notably, deep-tissue hydration at a 2.5 mm depth demonstrated a 188.02% higher gain, suggesting that the modality significantly fortifies the skin’s physiological moisture reservoir. The test group exhibited a marked improvement over the control across all cutaneous parameters (p < 0.001). Our findings demonstrate that a new combinatorial approach using EP-assisted microjet of a Synerjet system after cold plasma pretreatment and a nano-NMN 10% ampoule resulted in significantly greater improvements in wrinkles, pores, elasticity, pigmentation, and deep skin hydration compared to topical application alone. Consequently, these results demonstrated that the Synerjet system effectively overcame the inherent limitations of nano-delivery technologies, offering a promising modality for advanced cutaneous rejuvenation and a robust framework for future professional dermatological treatments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies—2nd Edition)

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17 pages, 1436 KB

Open AccessArticle

Antioxidant and Skin-Related Activities of a Plant-Derived Peptide Preparation (Vegan Sesamcoll) in Human Skin Cells

by Mi-Jin Lee, Hari Jang, Woo-Yong Song, Eunjandi Go, Kyong Jin Lee and Boo-Sik Jang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 171; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040171 - 2 Jul 2026

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Abstract

Natural materials derived from plants have attracted considerable attention as sustainable ingredients for skin-related applications. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and skin-related biological activities of a plant-derived peptide preparation obtained from Sesamum indicum L. by enzymatic hydrolysis (Vegan Sesamcoll, SCP). The [...] Read more.

Natural materials derived from plants have attracted considerable attention as sustainable ingredients for skin-related applications. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and skin-related biological activities of a plant-derived peptide preparation obtained from Sesamum indicum L. by enzymatic hydrolysis (Vegan Sesamcoll, SCP). The antioxidant activity of SCP was assessed using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays. SCP inhibited collagenase activity and increased type I collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, SCP increased hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) protein production in human epidermal keratinocytes. These findings indicate that SCP exhibited concentration dependent radical scavenging activity, collagenase inhibitory activity, increased type I collagen production, and enhanced HAS2/HAS3 protein production in vitro in human skin cells. The results suggest that SCP may have potential as a plant-derived cosmetic ingredient for skin-related applications. However, additional studies, including further characterization of the peptide preparation, mechanistic investigations, bioavailability evaluation, and human clinical studies, are required to further validate its biological activities and potential cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 3752 KB

Open AccessArticle

Targeting the Dual Nature of Facial Aging: A Clinical and Instrumental Study of a Multi-Active Cream on Static and Dynamic Wrinkles

by Han Tao, Qian Wang, Qiansong Yu, Xiaosheng Liu, Sue Chang and Yun Li

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 170; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040170 - 2 Jul 2026

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Abstract

Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires [...] Read more.

Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires objective, non-invasive endpoints alongside standardized clinical grading. Aim: This study aimed to evaluate the clinical and instrumental efficacy of a multi-active topical cream on static and dynamic wrinkles over 8 weeks of twice-a-day use. Methods: After a 2-week washout, we conducted a monocentric, open-label study on 62 Chinese women (25–55) who used the topical cream twice daily for 8 weeks (per-protocol n = 49; dynamic-wrinkle subset n = 41; dermatologist 0–9 grading at T0/Timm/W4/W8). The instrumental endpoints were PRIMOS-CR wrinkle morphometry (forehead, crow’s feet) and periocular high-frequency ultrasound (UC22). Dynamic wrinkles were assessed via high-speed smile imaging (max P10; mean P1–P10). Statistics comprised Wilcoxon’s tests for dermatologist-graded (ordinal) endpoints and repeated-measures ANOVA with Dunnett’s tests for continuous instrumental endpoints (α = 0.05). Results: Improvements were evident at Timm (periorbital elasticity −17.70%, global-face elasticity −15.23%, firmness −19.47%, smoothness −20.16%, radiance −25.75%; all p < 0.001). By Week 8, dermatologist-graded wrinkles generally decreased: crow’s feet −26.89%, under-eye −33.74%, glabellar −35.30%, forehead −34.69% (all p < 0.001). PRIMOS showed reductions in wrinkle area/length (forehead area −8.69%, length −12.05%; crow’s feet area −8.70%, length −16.03%; all p < 0.001). Ultrasound indicated increased periocular epidermal thickness (+26.57%) and density (+12.69%) (both p = 0.005). Dynamic-wrinkle grades improved during smiling (under-eye: max −12.64%, mean −15.74%; crow’s feet: max −15.97%, mean −16.89%; all p < 0.001), with reductions across P1–P10. Conclusions: In real-life, with twice-daily use, the multi-active cream demonstrated significant within-subject improvements in both static and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles, as supported by dermatologist grading, PRIMOS 3D wrinkle morphometry, and periocular high-frequency ultrasound. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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Cosmetics, Volume 13, Issue 4 (August 2026) – 39 articles

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