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Cosmetics
Volume 13
Issue 4
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Cosmetics, Volume 13, Issue 4 (August 2026) – 47 articles

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19 pages, 20911 KB  
Article
Pilot Investigations of Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate on Telomeres and Inclusive Anti-Aging Skincare
by Yuhua Jiang, Jason Wu, Aline Delobelle, Luyan Wang, Thibaut Saguet and Junjie Jiang
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 207; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040207 - 13 Aug 2026
Viewed by 123
Abstract
The telomere is one of the biological hallmarks of skin aging. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate (SAH) is an acetylated derivative of sodium hyaluronate, produced by a grafting technology that confers higher resistance to hyaluronidase. This study aimed to explore whether SAH is associated with [...] Read more.
The telomere is one of the biological hallmarks of skin aging. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate (SAH) is an acetylated derivative of sodium hyaluronate, produced by a grafting technology that confers higher resistance to hyaluronidase. This study aimed to explore whether SAH is associated with telomere-related endpoints and with clinical signs of skin aging. Two vitro studies were performed, assessing telomerase activity in human adult keratinocytes and telomere length in human normal fibroblasts by quantitative PCR (qPCR) assay kits, with or without SAH. A randomized, split-face, double-centered, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was then conducted on 44 Caucasian and Asian female volunteers, comparing a facial cream containing 0.1% SAH with a placebo cream over 28 days; crow’s feet wrinkle depth, area, and volume, under-eye roughness (Rz), elasticity (R2), and firmness (F4) were measured by PRIMOS 3D and Cutometer® MPA 580 at baseline, day 7, and day 28. In vitro, only the highest SAH concentration (0.15%) was associated with a significant increase in telomerase activity and in telomere length versus control, whereas lower concentrations had no significant effect. Clinically, the SAH cream significantly reduced crow’s feet wrinkle volume and area, improved skin elasticity, and reduced under-eye roughness versus placebo, with non-significant trends for wrinkle depth and firmness. These exploratory findings make SAH an interesting active ingredient for anti-aging skincare cosmetics, combining a curative dimension (clinical improvement of skin-aging parameters) with a preventive dimension (telomere preservation observed in vitro for the first time), and warrant further mechanistic investigation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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43 pages, 6120 KB  
Review
Exploring the Role of Antioxidants in Skin Whitening and Brightening Products: A Comprehensive Updated Review of Ingredients, Mechanisms, Benefits, and Potential Risks
by Saeid Mezail Mawazi, Nur Allyana Awadah Binti Abd Ghani and Faiz Ahmed Shaikh
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 206; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040206 - 13 Aug 2026
Viewed by 197
Abstract
There is a rapidly rising demand for cosmeceutical solutions for skin lightening/brightening due to the growing need for dermatologic applications and consumers’ preference to enhance the brightness of skin. Traditionally, the main ingredients for developing dermatological products were the potentially harmful and controversial [...] Read more.
There is a rapidly rising demand for cosmeceutical solutions for skin lightening/brightening due to the growing need for dermatologic applications and consumers’ preference to enhance the brightness of skin. Traditionally, the main ingredients for developing dermatological products were the potentially harmful and controversial hydroquinone compounds; however, in recent years, the research field experienced a transition towards safer antioxidant-based agents. The present review analyzes the application and use of antioxidants in modern cosmetics as an innovative approach, and the chemical and biological mechanisms of their functions that could revolutionize the industrial applications. The most effective ones include competitive inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme, pheomelanin switch through the help of glutathione, protection from reactive oxygen species (ROS) in order to inhibit ultraviolet (UV)-stimulated production of melanin, as well as prevention of the migration of melanosomes using niacinamide. The review identifies and analyzes several components used as ingredients, such as vitamins C, Niacinamide, vitamin E, licorice root, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), or resveratrol, among many more. In spite of their high efficiency, there are numerous problems associated with the instability, dermal irritation, and absorption of pure antioxidants. Finally, the legal framework developed by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and European Union (EU), potential risks like pro-oxidation damage, and future perspectives such as personalized skincare via machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) are discussed. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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12 pages, 1088 KB  
Article
Ethanolic Extract of Caulerpa racemosa Inhibits Melanogenesis via Downregulation of Microphthalmia-Associated Transcription Factor and Activation of Extracellular Signal-Regulated Kinase
by Ratchanon Sukprasert, Kant Sangpairoj, Pornpun Vivithanaporn, Nongnuch Luangpon, Waranurin Yisarakun, Montakan Tamtin, Witoon Khawsuk and Tanapan Siangcham
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040205 - 13 Aug 2026
Viewed by 189
Abstract
The application of natural bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical products, particularly as skin-lightening agents, has received increasing interest. Caulerpa racemosa, a green macroalga of the Chlorophyta division, contains beneficial nutrients that are applicable as food and cosmeceutical ingredients. This study investigated the in [...] Read more.
The application of natural bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical products, particularly as skin-lightening agents, has received increasing interest. Caulerpa racemosa, a green macroalga of the Chlorophyta division, contains beneficial nutrients that are applicable as food and cosmeceutical ingredients. This study investigated the in vitro effect of the ethanolic extract of C. racemosa (CR) on regulation of melanogenic-related signaling and gene expression in SK-MEL-5 human melanoma-derived cells. Identification of bioactive components revealed that catechin, rutin, and quercetin as flavonoid contents were found in CR extract, analyzed using HPLC. The expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) signaling molecules, and melanogenic-related molecules were analyzed via Western blotting and qPCR. The CR extract treatment applied to SK-MEL-5 cells decreased the MITF protein expression level, which correlated with increased pERK expression, and no cytotoxic effect was observed. The subsequent treatment reduced the expression of melanogenesis-related genes (TYR, TYRP1, MC1R, and DCT) that were downstream targets of MITF. This study provides preliminary evidence that CR extract may modulate melanogenesis-related signaling. However, the specific bioactive compounds responsible for the observed effects remain to be identified, as the extract contains a complex mixture of phytochemicals. Further fractionation studies are needed to pinpoint the active constituents. The variability of extract composition due to seasonal and geographical factors should be considered for future standardization. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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13 pages, 902 KB  
Review
Cosmetic Peptides as Adjunctive Skincare in Aesthetic Medicine: From Peri-Procedural Care to Long-Term Outcome Optimization
by Yuanmeng Yang and Zhenfeng Liu
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 204; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040204 - 13 Aug 2026
Viewed by 87
Abstract
Non-surgical aesthetic procedures, including energy-based devices and injectable therapies, have become increasingly popular worldwide, creating distinct skincare needs for peri-procedural recovery and long-term post-procedure maintenance. This narrative review summarizes current evidence on cosmetic peptides as adjunctive skincare across both phases. A structured literature [...] Read more.
Non-surgical aesthetic procedures, including energy-based devices and injectable therapies, have become increasingly popular worldwide, creating distinct skincare needs for peri-procedural recovery and long-term post-procedure maintenance. This narrative review summarizes current evidence on cosmetic peptides as adjunctive skincare across both phases. A structured literature search was conducted in PubMed, Embase, and Google Scholar, only including peptides with an International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) designation and defined amino acid sequences. Available clinical evidence suggests potential roles for cosmetic peptides in two interconnected scenarios. In peri-procedural care—spanning pre-procedure conditioning through post-procedure recovery—signal peptides, carrier peptides, and antimicrobial peptides have demonstrated benefits in accelerating healing and reducing erythema, edema, and bruising. As a long-term adjuvant strategy, signal peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, and whitening peptides may contribute to collagen remodeling, wrinkle reduction, and pigment control. Although enzyme-inhibiting peptides currently lack direct clinical evidence, their proposed mechanisms suggest potential for future investigation. However, the evidence remains limited by small sample sizes, short follow-up periods, heterogeneous peptide formulations and treatment protocols, and frequent use of proprietary multi-ingredient products. Overall, cosmetic peptides represent a potential adjunctive approach in aesthetic medicine. Larger, well-designed randomized controlled trials are needed to establish their clinical value and long-term safety. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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16 pages, 4538 KB  
Article
Early Detection of Lamellar Gel Network Instability in Cosmetic Emulsions Using Rheology, Laser Diffraction, and AI-Assisted Microscopy
by Axel Viton, Raphaël Coatmeur, Béatrice Anthouard, Magalie Claeys-Bruno, Christophe Sauzet and Philippe Piccerelle
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 203; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040203 - 12 Aug 2026
Viewed by 157
Abstract
Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates [...] Read more.
Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails. To test this, we apply a two-tier strategy combining ISO/TR 18811 testing and Turbiscan turbidimetry with rheology, laser diffraction, and AI-assisted polarized light microscopy, on two oil-in-water emulsions structured by a lamellar gel network and stabilized by Cetearyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Glucoside at 2 wt% (Emulsion A) and 3 wt% (Emulsion B) over 30 days of storage. First-tier testing distinguished formulations only at Day 30; Turbiscan index values (2.64, 1.78) stayed below threshold throughout. The second-tier protocol resolved structural divergence from Day 8 to 15, two to three weeks earlier. In Emulsion A, a transient birefringent fraction (51.5% at Day 8) preceded network disruption, droplet coalescence, and a drift of the loss tangent toward more liquid-like values. In Emulsion B, birefringence expanded to 98.4% by Day 30 and the loss tangent declined to 0.325. These results indicate that a 1 wt% difference in emulsifier concentration, within a range of industrial use, is sufficient to determine whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails, and that combining rheology, laser diffraction and AI-assisted microscopy resolves this divergence two to three weeks before conventional ISO criteria are met. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
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1 pages, 120 KB  
Correction
Correction: Fedotcheva, T.A.; Shimanovsky, N.L. Dehydroepiandrosterone and Skin: Sex- and Age-Related Mechanisms of Action. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 129
by Tatiana A. Fedotcheva and Nikolay L. Shimanovsky
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 202; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040202 - 12 Aug 2026
Viewed by 82
Abstract
There was an error in the original publication [...] Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Aging and Dermatosis)
30 pages, 22870 KB  
Article
Preliminary Clinical and Mechanistic Evaluation of Traditional Thai Herbal Cream Containing Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa for Eczema and Psoriasis
by Julalak Chorachoo Ontong, Chatchai Wattanapiromsakul, Charassri Nualsri, Sudarshan Singh, Popat Mohite, Benjaporn Bourchum, Meadeena Kobmang, Pinyada Subyad, Thanyaphon Pusawiro, Supatina Khan, Nattanon Bunrodchu, Narapat Aunruean, Apiwat Artkaew, Anon Makklay and Thanyaluck Siriyong
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 201; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040201 - 11 Aug 2026
Viewed by 365
Abstract
Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa have traditionally been used for the management of skin disorders; however, scientific evidence supporting their combined topical use in eczema and psoriasis remains limited. To characterize the phytochemical composition, evaluate the biological activities, investigate potential molecular mechanisms, and [...] Read more.
Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa have traditionally been used for the management of skin disorders; however, scientific evidence supporting their combined topical use in eczema and psoriasis remains limited. To characterize the phytochemical composition, evaluate the biological activities, investigate potential molecular mechanisms, and assess the preliminary clinical performance of a topical herbal cream containing C. sativa and C. longa extracts. Ethanolic extracts were analyzed using UHPLC and GC-MS. Antioxidant, antibacterial, cytotoxicity, and nitric oxide inhibition assays were performed. Molecular docking studies were conducted against inflammation-related protein targets. A pilot clinical study evaluated the effects of the herbal cream in patients with eczema and psoriasis over four weeks using EASI, PASI, and DLQI scores. The herbal formulation contained cannabinoids, terpenoids, and curcuminoids with measurable antioxidant activity. The extract exhibited low cytotoxicity and moderate inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated macrophages (0.0001–0.1 mg/mL). Docking analyses suggested favorable interactions between selected phytochemicals and inflammation-associated targets. Preliminary clinical observations indicated improvements in EASI (from 4.11 ± 3.14 to 1.28 ± 1.46), PASI (from 39 to 16.2), and DLQI (from 6.25 ± 5.25 to 1.00 ± 0.82) scores among study completers. The herbal cream demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and showed preliminary clinical potential in inflammatory skin disorders. Larger controlled clinical studies are required to confirm efficacy and establish therapeutic value. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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22 pages, 4880 KB  
Article
Beyond Brand Popularity: Decoding Lip Balm Performance Through Lipid Structural Architecture, Instrumental Texture Analysis, and Consumer Expectations
by Magdalena Bîrsan, Iulia-Alexandra Roman, Cătălina-Daniela Stan, Ana-Caterina Cristofor, Robert-Alexandru Vlad, Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu, Adriana Ciurba and Carmen-Valerica Ripa
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 200; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040200 - 10 Aug 2026
Viewed by 188
Abstract
Objective: Commercial lip balm sticks are often selected based on brand popularity and marketing claims, which may not reflect formulation quality or mechanical reliability. This study investigated whether lipid matrix organization better predicts mechanical integrity and consumer acceptance than commercial positioning and [...] Read more.
Objective: Commercial lip balm sticks are often selected based on brand popularity and marketing claims, which may not reflect formulation quality or mechanical reliability. This study investigated whether lipid matrix organization better predicts mechanical integrity and consumer acceptance than commercial positioning and introduced the Structural Lipid Architecture (SLA) concept. Materials and Methods: Seven best-selling commercial lip balm sticks were evaluated through consumer research, instrumental texture analysis, and compositional assessment. A validated questionnaire completed by 234 participants assessed product performance, fracture perception, purchasing behaviour, and willingness to pay for improved quality. Mechanical properties were determined using a Brookfield CT3 Texture Analyzer, while INCI compositions were analysed for structural wax diversity, lipid co-structuring agents, and melting point distribution within the SLA framework. Results: Overall, 76.9% of respondents reported having previously experienced stick fracture or deformation, while 94.4% expressed willingness to pay more for products offering superior performance and safety. Product fracture was strongly associated with reduced confidence in product quality (ρ = 0.672, p < 0.0001) and lower repurchase intention (ρ = 0.725, p < 0.0001). Hardness strongly correlated with mechanical work (r = 0.950, p = 0.001). Formulations combining complementary natural, mineral, and/or synthetic waxes with lipid co-structuring agents exhibited superior structural cohesion and fracture resistance, whereas simplified wax systems showed progressive mechanical failure. Conclusions: Best-selling status did not consistently predict superior mechanical performance. Optimized combinations of complementary structural waxes were key determinants of product integrity and fracture resistance. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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26 pages, 10520 KB  
Article
Development of Microemulsion-Based Makeup Remover from Hemp Seed Oil
by Wansada Suttimas, Surapol Natakankitkul and Mathukorn Sainakham
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 199; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040199 - 7 Aug 2026
Viewed by 267
Abstract
The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. [...] Read more.
The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. Hemp seed oil showed good oxidative stability (peroxide value = 1.87 ± 0.23 mEq/kg). It contained 0.134 ± 0.01 mg gallic acid equivalents/g of oil weight of phenolic compounds. The oil was rich in linoleic and α-linolenic acids and contained α-tocopherol. Microemulsions were prepared by combining hemp seed oil with castor oil (C:H) or sunflower oil (S:H) at three oil ratios and four surfactant HLB values (4.3–12). From 72 candidate formulations, only sunflower oil:hemp seed oil systems in the ratio of 3:7 and HLB of 9.5 showed the best overall balance of stability, maintaining droplet size, low PDI, and consistent viscosity/turbidity over 2 months of storage and heating–cooling cycle testing. This formulation also exhibited cleansing efficiency (ΔE = 9.64), which was slightly lower than a commercial cleansing oil (ΔE = 9.74). These results illustrate the potential of hemp seed oil to be developed into a stable, effective W/O microemulsion cleansing system for cosmetic application. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, 2nd Edition)
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18 pages, 2015 KB  
Article
Preconditioning Human Skin Fibroblasts with 505 nm Blue–Green Light Reduces UVB-Induced Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers
by Nana Kanda, Sayuri Furuno, Hikaru Iwata, Nozomi Suga, Megumi Oya, Shota Suzuki, Kentaro Yamazaki and Ichiro Yajima
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 198; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040198 - 4 Aug 2026
Viewed by 416
Abstract
Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm2, 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm2) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm2). At 505 nm, [...] Read more.
Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm2, 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm2) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm2). At 505 nm, the residual cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) burden measured 24 h after UVB was reduced when UVB followed immediately or after 3–24 h (with residual CPDs falling to approximately 67% of the UVB-alone level—an approximately 33% reduction—at the most effective 3.0 J/cm2, 24 h condition), whereas protection was lost by 48 h. Under the 0 h interval condition, CPDs were also quantified immediately after UVB to compare the early CPD signal with the 24 h residual endpoint; all three visible wavelengths (505, 470 and 630 nm) lowered the immediate post-UVB signal, but only 505 nm preconditioning sustained the protective effect at the 24 h endpoint. Blue light (470 nm) produced a limited delayed benefit, whereas red light (630 nm) did not confer consistent protection and increased the residual CPD burden under selected conditions. Non-toxic 505 nm exposure primed an amplified NRF2/ARE response to subsequent UVB; XPC and XPD mRNAs rose at 2–6 h, while XPA and XPB declined early. Together, these findings support further evaluation of 505 nm blue–green light as a proof-of-concept, device-oriented strategy for timed photoprotection against UVB-induced photoaging; because these findings were obtained in a single dermal fibroblast model, they will require validation in keratinocytes and more complex skin systems before any practical application. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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24 pages, 2345 KB  
Review
Biotics for Acne-Prone Skin and Scalp Disorders: A Scoping Review
by Gisele Mara Silva Gonçalves
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 197; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040197 - 4 Aug 2026
Viewed by 358
Abstract
Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris [...] Read more.
Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris and scalp disorders. Methods: A scoping search (2006–2026) covered SciELO, PubMed/PMC, Google Scholar, CAPES Portal, Scopus, Heliyon, Frontiers, Nature, Wiley, and MDPI, following PRISMA 2020 guidelines. Results: Of 1665 records, 66 were included. For acne, effective prebiotics included blackcurrant, grape seed, ginseng, trehalose, and glucomannan hydrolysate; effective probiotic strains included Streptococcus thermophilus, Bifidobacterium longum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Streptococcus salivarius. A synbiotic (B. breve BR03, Lacticaseibacillus casei LC03, Ligilactobacillus salivarius LS03) reduced inflammatory lesions by 56.67% in an 8-week RCT (n = 114). For scalp disorders, oral Lacticaseibacillus paracasei ST11 reduced dandruff by 70% vs. 23% (placebo); Lactiplantibacillus plantarum TCI999 increased hair root diameter (n = 50, 12 weeks); a Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus plus Bifidobacterium longum mixture improved alopecia areata by 56% vs. 30% (n = 26, 24 weeks). Conclusions: Biotic dermo-cosmetics can modulate the cutaneous microbiome and attenuate inflammation in acne and scalp disorders, with strongest evidence for multi-strain/synbiotic formulations. Formulation stability, strain specificity, regulatory heterogeneity, and lack of standardized microbiological endpoints remain key challenges; larger standardized RCTs with active comparators are needed. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)
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16 pages, 10097 KB  
Article
Trehalose in an Emulsion-Based Carrier: Effects on Skin Hydration and Transepidermal Water Loss
by Anna Czajkowska-Kośnik, Paulina Perkowska and Katarzyna Winnicka
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040196 - 4 Aug 2026
Viewed by 336
Abstract
Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of [...] Read more.
Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of this study was to develop dermatological emulsions with desirable physicochemical, rheological, mechanical, adhesive, and moisturizing properties for dry skin care. Six placebo emulsions, differing in emulsifier and oil compositions, were prepared and evaluated for stability, pH, viscosity, rheological behavior, texture, adhesion, and spreadability. Based on the results obtained, the formulation containing avocado oil and Olivem 1000 was selected as the optimal base for incorporating trehalose at concentrations of 1%, 2.5%, and 5%. The formulations were further evaluated in vivo using TEWL and corneometry measurements. All emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian shear-thinning and thixotropic properties. Regular application of the emulsions reduced TEWL by approximately 33%, while skin hydration increased up to 102%. However, discontinuation of the emulsion application resulted in decreased skin hydration and increased TEWL, suggesting the need for constant use. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)
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23 pages, 1833 KB  
Article
Ascorbic Acid and Its Hydrophilic Derivatives in Commercial Cosmetics: A Cross-Sectional Study of Their Quality Control and Stability
by Žane Temova Rakuša and Robert Roškar
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 195; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040195 - 2 Aug 2026
Viewed by 400
Abstract
Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed [...] Read more.
Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed to evaluate the content-related quality and stability of a comprehensive sample of commercial cosmetics. For this purpose, a selective HPLC-UV analytical method for their simultaneous determination was developed, validated, and applied to 41 products. The analysis revealed 0–31.7% (m/m) contents and inappropriate labeling in 22% of the products, including the absence and replacement of the labeled vitamin C form. Over half (57%) of the determined contents corresponded to the labels, which was claimed for 31 products, while the remaining contents were considerably lower (<80%). The stability study, performed on selected cosmetics and standard solutions under ambient and elevated temperatures, demonstrated instability, which could account for their inadequate content. Thus, the instability was found to be temperature-dependent and most pronounced for ascorbic acid, whereas the product price did not show a clear correlation with greater content or stability. Overall, these results highlight the need for proper quality control and stricter cosmetics regulation as well as formulation design to achieve sufficient stabilization, as observed in certain products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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21 pages, 2054 KB  
Article
Phytochemical Characterization and In Vitro Anti-Tyrosinase Activity of a Traditional Hypericum perforatum L. Olive Oil Macerate for Cosmetic Applications
by Melike Akgün, Ömerül Faruk Tavlı, Orçun Çınar, Alevcan Kaplan, Mehmet Boğa, Ercan Çınar, Serpil Demirci Kayıran and Esra Eroğlu Özkan
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 194; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040194 - 31 Jul 2026
Viewed by 259
Abstract
Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared [...] Read more.
Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared macerate of defined origin. The fatty acid composition, oxidative-stability indices, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, naphthodianthrone level, antioxidant capacity, and tyrosinase inhibition were determined, and the principal constituents were examined by molecular docking and in silico skin-permeation and toxicity profiling. The olive-oil matrix was oleic acid-dominated (73.9%) and oxidatively stable (iodine value 86.0; oxidizability index, COX, 1.84), while the macerate showed modest phenolic (36.84 μg pyrocatechol equivalents, PCE/mg) and naphthodianthrone (0.044 mg/mL hypericin equivalents) contents. It showed limited antioxidant activity but moderate tyrosinase inhibition (38.75% at 200 μg/mL). Docking revealed that, despite high affinity scores, the naphthodianthrones lay 7–9 Å from the catalytic copper centre (an artefact of the scoring function), whereas fatty acids accessed the active site more closely, implicating the matrix in the observed activity. In silico profiling indicated that the photoactive naphthodianthrones are largely retained at the skin surface. These findings link this centuries-old preparation to a mechanistically informed understanding of its cosmetic potential. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)
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15 pages, 659 KB  
Article
Phytochemical Screening and Antibacterial Activity of Jatropha multifida L. (Coral Bush) Leaf Extract-Based Soap Against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli
by Trixie Joy B. Gano and Ariel M. Alcones
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 193; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040193 - 29 Jul 2026
Viewed by 372
Abstract
The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v [...] Read more.
The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v) against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Antibacterial activity was determined using the Kirby–Bauer disk diffusion method alongside positive and negative controls. All extract-infused soap formulations exhibited distinct, measurable zones of inhibition (ZOI) ranging from 16.33 mm to 17.67 mm for S. aureus and 16.33 mm to 18.00 mm for E. coli, consistently achieving an “Active” qualitative classification. A one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) demonstrated highly significant differences across the entire dataset (p < 0.001). However, Tukey’s Honestly Significant Difference (HSD) post hoc test revealed no statistically significant differences in antibacterial performance among the 25%, 50%, and 75% concentrations (p > 0.05). This indicates a performance plateau caused by agar diffusion limits or micellar entrapment within the soap base. J. multifida maintains antibacterial integrity within a soap matrix, offering a viable plant-based antiseptic alternative against S. aureus and E. coli. Formulating at a 25% concentration represents the optimal commercial choice, maximizing antimicrobial performance while minimizing raw material costs. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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14 pages, 2033 KB  
Article
A Triple-Helical Collagen Gel Modulates Electrophysiological Parameters in Isolated Rabbit Skin
by Dominika Dąbrowska-Wisłocka, Aleksandra Kalinoska, Olga Zavyalova, Beata Winiecka, Karolina Pisanko, Arkadiusz Jundziłł, Karolina Szewczyk-Golec and Iga Hołyńska-Iwan
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 192; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040192 - 29 Jul 2026
Viewed by 257
Abstract
Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps [...] Read more.
Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps maintain skin elasticity and hydration. Despite its broad application, the influence of collagen on epithelial ion transport remains insufficiently understood. This study evaluated the effect of a gel containing triple-helical collagen on sodium and chloride ion transport in the isolated rabbit skin. The collagen gel was applied to 25 skin specimens for 24 h and compared with 30 untreated control specimens. Electrophysiological analyses included measurements of transepithelial electrical potential (PD), electrical resistance (R), and potential changes during stimulation (PDmin and PDmax). Collagen gel significantly decreased R compared with control tissues, indicating altered tissue permeability. Collagen gel-treated tissues also exhibited a significantly more electropositive PDmin than controls, whereas PDmax values remained comparable between groups, suggesting that electrophysiological responsiveness was maintained under the experimental conditions. The observed electropositive shift in PDmin may reflect altered sodium ion transport. Whether these electrophysiological changes are associated with changes in tissue hydration requires direct investigation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)
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21 pages, 1657 KB  
Article
Effects of a Tubtim Chumphae Rice Extract Facial Serum on Skin Biophysical Properties in Healthy Middle-Aged Adults: A Split-Face Controlled Clinical Trial
by Thapanee Roengrit, Thirapit Subongkot, Thanchanok Sirirak, Suwipa Intakhiao, Jatuporn Phoemsapthawee and Piyapong Prasertsri
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 191; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040191 - 25 Jul 2026
Viewed by 285
Abstract
This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face [...] Read more.
This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face for 12 weeks: (1) a serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract (treatment intervention) and (2) a standard serum formulation containing 2% α-arbutin (control intervention). Skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, melanin, and erythema were assessed at baseline and after the intervention using non-invasive skin measurement techniques. At baseline, no significant differences were observed between facial sides for any outcome. After 12 weeks, the side treated with the treatment intervention demonstrated significant within-side improvements in skin hydration at the forehead, skin elasticity at the cheeks and chin, and reductions in melanin and erythema in selected facial regions (all p < 0.05). However, paired split-face comparisons revealed that the treatment intervention produced significantly greater skin hydration at the cheek (mean difference = 3.88 AU, 95% CI: 0.23–7.53 AU, p = 0.039) and significantly greater skin elasticity at the forehead (mean difference = 0.090, 95% CI: 0.011–0.169, p = 0.028) compared with the control intervention. In addition, skin oiliness at the cheek was significantly lower on the side treated with the treatment intervention (mean difference = −6.62 µg/cm2, 95% CI: −12.62 to −0.62 µg/cm2, p = 0.032). No significant between-intervention differences were observed for melanin or erythema at any facial region. These findings suggest that topical application of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract may improve skin hydration and elasticity while reducing skin oiliness in healthy middle-aged adults. However, no significant advantages over a standard 2% α-arbutin serum were observed for skin pigmentation or erythema after 12 weeks of treatment. Clinical Trial Registration: ClinicalTrials.gov, NCT06475222. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic The Use of Natural Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Products: Advantages and Challenges)
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24 pages, 6950 KB  
Article
Development and Optimization of a Nanoemulsion-Based Lip Balm Incorporating Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Catenella sp. for Enhanced Photoprotection
by Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Valentina Aranzazu Suárez, Santiago Andrés Barrero Salinas, Yoshie A. Hata, Daniel Cárdenas Ballesteros, Leonardo Castellanos and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 190; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040190 - 24 Jul 2026
Viewed by 592
Abstract
Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application [...] Read more.
Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application is limited by poor chemical stability in aqueous environments. Objective: The present study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion-based lip balm incorporating a MAAs-rich extract from Catenella sp., addressing stability limitations while enhancing photoprotective performance. Methods: A MAAs-rich extract was obtained and characterized by UHPLC-DAD, followed by cytotoxicity evaluation in NIH-3T3 fibroblasts and stability assessment under stress conditions. A water-in-oil (w/o) nanoemulsion was rationally developed using pseudo-ternary phase diagrams and optimized through a Box–Behnken experimental design, considering aqueous phase, surfactant mixture, and sonication time as key variables. The optimized nanoemulsion was subsequently incorporated into a lip balm matrix, which was formulated and optimized using a mixture design approach to evaluate thermal, mechanical, and sensory properties. Results: The extract exhibited a high MAAs content (9.53 mg g−1 DW) and low cytotoxicity (IC50 > 100 µg/mL), but pronounced hydrolytic instability, particularly under alkaline conditions, while remaining photostable. The optimized nanoemulsion achieved a droplet size below 200 nm and low polydispersity (PDI < 0.3). Importantly, incorporation of MAAs into nanoemulsion significantly enhanced the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), increasing from 16.1 (extract) to 35.4, while maintaining broad-spectrum UV coverage (λc = 380 nm). The blank nanoemulsion also contributed to UV attenuation, indicating a synergistic effect of the colloidal system. The optimized lip balm formulation (33% beeswax, 40% nanoemulsion, 22% shea butter, 1% candelilla wax, 4% carnauba wax) demonstrated suitable melting behavior, mechanical resistance, and high sensory acceptance. Conclusions: This study demonstrates that nanoemulsion-based structuring combined with statistical formulation design provides an effective strategy to stabilize MAAs and enhance their photoprotective efficacy, supporting the development of high-performance, natural sunscreen products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, 2nd Edition)
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14 pages, 22584 KB  
Article
Taiwanofungus camphoratus-Derived Extracellular Vesicles as a Potential Cosmetic Bioactive Candidate for Protecting Keratinocytes from UVB-Induced Photoaging
by Han-Wen Hsieh, Mo-Rong Xu, Wen-Wei Hsiao and Sheng-Yang Wang
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040189 - 24 Jul 2026
Viewed by 382
Abstract
Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs [...] Read more.
Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs isolated from liquid-cultured Taiwanofungus camphoratus mycelia (TCEVs) protect keratinocytes against UVB-induced damage. TCEVs displayed nanosized vesicular features with a mean particle size of 134.6 ± 4.6 nm and a stable negative surface charge. In HaCaT cells, TCEVs showed no obvious cytotoxicity and increased wound closure. In UVB-exposed keratinocytes, TCEV pretreatment improved cell viability, increased ATP production, reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species accumulation, and improved mitochondrial membrane potential. At the highest tested concentration (10 × 1010 particles/mL), TCEVs reduced UVB-induced relative ROS levels from 118.65% to 98.2% and increased relative ATP levels from 70.47% to 86.0%. TCEVs also increased the expression of ZO-1, occludin, and Claudin-3 and were associated with increased SIRT1 and p-AMPK expression and partial improvement of PGC-1α. In contrast, Nrf2 and TFAM did not differ significantly from the UVB-irradiated group. These findings support the potential of TCEVs to prevent UVB-induced keratinocyte damage under the present in vitro conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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14 pages, 2878 KB  
Article
Comparative Characterization of Injectable Dermal Fillers: Physicochemical Properties, Cytotoxicity, Collagen-Stimulating Activity, and Macrophage Cytokine Profiles
by Seonhong Min, Gadug Han and Jaehyeon Kim
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 188; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040188 - 23 Jul 2026
Viewed by 472
Abstract
Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem®, cCaHA, PDLLA, [...] Read more.
Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem®, cCaHA, PDLLA, PLLA, and PCL—with respect to particle morphology and size distribution, in vitro cytotoxicity, collagen-stimulating gene expression, and macrophage cytokine secretion profiles. Particle size and distribution were determined by laser diffraction. Cytotoxicity was assessed in L929 mouse fibroblasts using the CCK-8 assay at concentrations of 0.1–5 mg/mL. Collagen-stimulating activity was evaluated by measuring COL1A1 and COL3A2 mRNA expression in primary human fibroblasts via quantitative RT-PCR. Macrophage immune responses were profiled by a multiplexed cytokine array (40 analytes) in lipopolysaccharide/interferon-γ-polarised M1 and interleukin-4/interleukin-13-polarised M2 macrophages. Scanning electron microscopy revealed distinct morphological differences among the five products. PDLLA exhibited the smallest median particle size (d(0.5) = 24.9 μm) and highest specific surface area (701.4 m2/kg), while PLLA showed the broadest size distribution (Span = 1.617). All products maintained cell viability above 85% at all tested concentrations, indicating acceptable biocompatibility. Facetem®, PDLLA, and PLLA significantly upregulated COL1A1 expression in human fibroblasts; PDLLA and Facetem® also significantly increased COL3A2 expression. Cytokine profiling demonstrated that the products did not substantially alter pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion in M1 macrophages, whereas selected products at high concentrations modulated several mediators in M2 macrophages, suggesting a tissue-remodelling rather than inflammatory response. These findings demonstrate product-specific physicochemical and biological profiles that may guide clinician selection and formulation development of injectable dermal fillers. Facetem® exhibited a favourable combination of biocompatibility, collagen-stimulating activity, and immune-modulatory properties comparable or superior to established reference products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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20 pages, 19192 KB  
Article
Discovery of Multifunctional Probiotic Strains with Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, Antimicrobial, and Skin Barrier-Supportive Activities for Postbiotic Cosmetic Applications
by Jeong-Hoo Lee, Jia Yoo, Young-Youn Kim and Hye-Sung Kim
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 187; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040187 - 23 Jul 2026
Viewed by 965
Abstract
Probiotic strains with multifunctional skin-beneficial properties represent promising candidates for next-generation cosmetic ingredients. In this study, a systematic stepwise screening strategy was applied to an in-house bacterial library comprising 302 isolates to identify candidates with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wound-healing, and skin barrier-supportive activities. [...] Read more.
Probiotic strains with multifunctional skin-beneficial properties represent promising candidates for next-generation cosmetic ingredients. In this study, a systematic stepwise screening strategy was applied to an in-house bacterial library comprising 302 isolates to identify candidates with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wound-healing, and skin barrier-supportive activities. From this library, 33 strains were selected based on preliminary assessments and subjected to comprehensive in vitro evaluation. Cell viability and cytotoxicity assays confirmed the safety of all selected strains in RAW264.7 macrophages and HaCaT keratinocytes. Several strains exhibited strong DPPH radical scavenging activity and significantly inhibited nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated macrophages. Among the selected candidates, Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus DM073 demonstrated the most potent anti-inflammatory activity, whereas Lactiplantibacillus plantarum DM043 exhibited the greatest wound-healing capacity. All five selected strains displayed antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes. Furthermore, selected strains, particularly Lactiplantibacillus plantarum DM175 and Ligilactobacillus salivarius DM079, enhanced the expression of skin barrier-related genes, including zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1), occludin (OCLN), claudin-1 (Cla-1), and filaggrin (FLG), and partially restored their expression under TNF-α/IFN-γ-induced inflammatory conditions. Selected strains also reduced the expression of inflammatory chemokines in stimulated keratinocytes. Collectively, these findings demonstrate that the selected probiotic strains possess complementary multifunctional activities associated with skin health. In particular, DM073 exhibited superior anti-inflammatory activity, DM043 showed strong wound-healing potential, and DM175 demonstrated remarkable skin barrier-supportive effects. These strain-specific properties support their potential application in the development of probiotic-derived postbiotic cosmetic ingredients for skin soothing, barrier reinforcement, skin recovery, and microbiome-friendly skincare formulations. Further studies are warranted to evaluate their efficacy and safety in advanced skin models and clinical cosmetic applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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20 pages, 1211 KB  
Article
The Effect of Antioxidants on the Photoinduced Degradation of Sunscreens
by Dávid Laššák, Patrícia Jackuliaková, Daniel Krchňák, Mária Čuchorová and Miroslava Špaglová
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 186; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040186 - 23 Jul 2026
Viewed by 687
Abstract
The stability of sunscreen formulations is a key factor influencing their protective efficacy and safety, particularly under UV exposure, which can induce photodegradation of UV filters. (1) Background: This study aimed to evaluate the effect of selected antioxidants (stabilized vitamin C, carrot macerate, [...] Read more.
The stability of sunscreen formulations is a key factor influencing their protective efficacy and safety, particularly under UV exposure, which can induce photodegradation of UV filters. (1) Background: This study aimed to evaluate the effect of selected antioxidants (stabilized vitamin C, carrot macerate, and ferulic acid) on the sun protection factor (SPF) and photostability of sunscreen formulations. (2) Methods: Four oil-in-water creams with identical compositions, except for the antioxidant type, were prepared and characterized in terms of SPF, rheological behavior, pH, conductivity, stability, and sensory properties. SPF was determined using an in vitro spectrophotometric method before and after UV irradiation (30 and 120 min). (3) Results: Antioxidant incorporation increased initial SPF, with ferulic acid providing the most significant enhancement. After UV exposure, all formulations exhibited a decrease in SPF. However, the formulation containing ferulic acid maintained the highest absolute SPF value, indicating superior photostability. In contrast, vitamin C showed the greatest reduction in SPF, suggesting lower stability under irradiation. Physical characterization confirmed appropriate properties of the formulations, and sensory analysis identified the ferulic acid formulation as the most acceptable. (4) Conclusions: Ferulic acid demonstrated the most favorable impact on sunscreen performance, suggesting its potential as an effective multifunctional ingredient in sunscreens. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)
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14 pages, 1604 KB  
Article
In Vitro Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Crithmum maritimum for Anti-Aging Skin Care
by Anthony Groso, Paul Jabet, Yue Zhang, Yanshan Xie, Ping Wang, Zejian Wang, Richard Daniellou and Guillaume Collet
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 185; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040185 - 22 Jul 2026
Viewed by 484
Abstract
Background and objective: A huge part of cosmetics research is devoted to the identification of new molecules and new ingredients which could prevent skin aging. Crithmum maritimum has attracted interest in the cosmetic field because it has been used since antiquity in traditional [...] Read more.
Background and objective: A huge part of cosmetics research is devoted to the identification of new molecules and new ingredients which could prevent skin aging. Crithmum maritimum has attracted interest in the cosmetic field because it has been used since antiquity in traditional medicine and is traditionally consumed in Mediterranean regions. However, data about demonstrated efficacy on living cells remain sparse. To better understand the potential of this plant for the cosmetics industry, we aimed to investigate in vitro some key properties in line with anti-aging skin care. Methods and results: Molecular results demonstrated an impressive antioxidant effect which was confirmed in vitro on living keratinocytes with a decrease of 50% of oxidative stress measured with the fluorescent CM-H2DCFDA probe. Additionally, an inhibitory effect around 20% was observed on isolated collagenase and elastase, highlighting the ability of C. maritimum to preserve the skin matrix. Lastly, anti-inflammatory properties were explored at protein levels by ELISA method, indicating a clear decrease of six inflammatory mediators, IL-6, IL-8, IL-18, CXCL9, CXCL10, and CCL5, on stressed keratinocytes. These observed decreases span from 20% up to 75% in the case of the IL-18. Conclusions: All together, these results reveal how efficient C. maritimum extract could be to alleviate signs of aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic Oxidative Stress and Inflammation, 3rd Edition)
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15 pages, 2258 KB  
Review
Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles for Cosmetic and Regenerative Applications: Current Evidence, Research Trends, and Future Perspectives
by Yury Shkryl, Elena Vasyutkina and Yulia Yugay
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 184; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040184 - 18 Jul 2026
Viewed by 552
Abstract
Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs), also referred to as plant exosomes or exosome-like nanovesicles, have emerged as promising natural bioactive nanoparticles for cosmetic and regenerative applications. Owing to their biocompatibility, intrinsic bioactive cargo, and ability to interact with mammalian cells, PDEVs are increasingly investigated [...] Read more.
Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs), also referred to as plant exosomes or exosome-like nanovesicles, have emerged as promising natural bioactive nanoparticles for cosmetic and regenerative applications. Owing to their biocompatibility, intrinsic bioactive cargo, and ability to interact with mammalian cells, PDEVs are increasingly investigated as agents for skin rejuvenation, wound healing, photoprotection, pigmentation control, and skin barrier enhancement. However, the available evidence remains fragmented across different plant sources and experimental models. This review aimed to summarize and critically evaluate the current evidence regarding the cosmetic and regenerative properties of PDEVs. Experimental studies investigating the effects of PDEVs on skin cells, reconstructed skin models, animals, or human subjects were systematically identified and analyzed. The available evidence consistently demonstrated that PDEVs promote skin regeneration and tissue repair. The most frequently reported effects included enhanced keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation and migration, accelerated wound closure, increased collagen synthesis, reduced oxidative stress, activation of antioxidant defense pathways, and suppression of inflammatory responses. Additional studies reported improvements in skin barrier function, hydration, photoprotection, pigmentation control, and cellular senescence. Collectively, the available studies demonstrate consistent regenerative, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective effects of PDEVs. Overall, PDEVs represent multifunctional bioactive nanomaterials with substantial potential for cosmetic applications. While clinical translation remains limited by regulatory and standardization challenges, cosmetic use appears to offer a more immediate route toward commercialization. Further standardization, mechanistic studies, and clinical investigations are required to support the broader implementation of PDEV-based technologies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
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14 pages, 878 KB  
Article
Oral Probiotic Supplementation Improves Skin Aging Biomarkers: An 8-Week Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
by Francesca De Gennaro, Enza Cestone and Vincenzo Nobile
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 183; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040183 - 18 Jul 2026
Viewed by 528
Abstract
Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and growing evidence suggests that nutritional interventions, particularly probiotics, may modulate key biological pathways involved in skin barrier function, hydration, and oxidative stress through the gut–skin axis. Methods: In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled [...] Read more.
Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and growing evidence suggests that nutritional interventions, particularly probiotics, may modulate key biological pathways involved in skin barrier function, hydration, and oxidative stress through the gut–skin axis. Methods: In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, 66 adults received a probiotic formulation containing Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus LRH020, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PBS067, and Limosilactobacillus reuteri PBS072 for 56 days, followed by a 28-day follow-up. Skin structure, function, and oxidative status were assessed using 3D profilometry, high-frequency ultrasound, corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), FRAP assay, and expert clinical scoring. Results: Compared with placebo, the probiotic group showed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−15.0% at T56), and roughness (−6.1% at T56). Moreover, other skin parameters were significantly enhanced by the end of treatment, including greater skin density, hydration, and antioxidant capacity, alongside a reduction in TEWL. Improvements persisted at follow-up, suggesting a durable, lasting benefit of the probiotic formulation beyond the treatment period. Conclusions: These findings support the role of targeted probiotic supplementation as a promising strategy to improve structural, functional, and oxidative markers of skin aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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25 pages, 3774 KB  
Review
Agro-Industrial Residues as Sources of Dermo-Cosmetic Enzyme Inhibitors: Extraction Strategies, Matrix Effects, and Cosmetic Potential
by Amanda Rubia de Figueiredo Trindade, Samanta Shiraishi Kagueyama, Isadora de Brito Hilario, Luís Felipe Oliva dos Santos, José Rivaldo dos Santos Filho, Rúbia Carvalho Gomes Corrêa, Cristina Giatti Marques de Souza, Adelar Bracht and Rosane Marina Peralta
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 182; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040182 - 17 Jul 2026
Viewed by 513
Abstract
Agro-industrial residues have emerged as promising sources of bioactive compounds for dermo-cosmetic applications, particularly as inhibitors of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. However, the interpretation of reported inhibitory activities is frequently complicated by variations in extraction strategies, matrix composition, assay design, and methodological [...] Read more.
Agro-industrial residues have emerged as promising sources of bioactive compounds for dermo-cosmetic applications, particularly as inhibitors of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. However, the interpretation of reported inhibitory activities is frequently complicated by variations in extraction strategies, matrix composition, assay design, and methodological rigor. This critical narrative review examines how these factors collectively influence the reliability, comparability, and translational relevance of enzyme inhibition data obtained from residue-derived extracts. The literature was analyzed using a framework-oriented approach based on representative peer-reviewed studies selected according to their methodological quality, experimental design, and mechanistic relevance. The analysis integrates three complementary dimensions: extraction and processing strategies, compositional complexity of the recovered matrices, and evidence quality supporting the reported bioactivities. The reviewed literature demonstrates that enzyme inhibition is rarely an intrinsic property of isolated compounds but rather an emergent behavior arising from complex physicochemical systems in which synergistic interactions, matrix effects, and assay-dependent artefacts frequently influence the observed responses. The widespread reliance on simplified in vitro screening methods, often without dose–response evaluation, kinetic characterization, or adequate control of assay interference, remains a major obstacle to reproducibility and cross-study comparison. Based on this analysis, an integrative framework is proposed to guide the interpretation of enzyme inhibition in complex botanical extracts by explicitly linking process design, matrix composition, and methodological evidence. This perspective provides a more robust basis for the identification, validation, and industrial translation of sustainable bioactive ingredients obtained from agro-industrial residues for next-generation dermo-cosmetic formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic The Use of Natural Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Products: Advantages and Challenges)
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44 pages, 2694 KB  
Review
Eye Cosmetics and Ocular Surface Diseases: An Emerging Concern in Modern Aesthetic Practices
by Basanta Bhujel, Kyu Sang Eah, Soon Suk Kang, Ho Seok Chung, Hun Lee and Jae-Yong Kim
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040181 - 16 Jul 2026
Viewed by 625
Abstract
Eye cosmetics, including eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyebrow products, are widely used to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the eyes. While generally considered safe, their application to the delicate periocular region can pose significant risks to ocular surface health. Growing clinical and experimental [...] Read more.
Eye cosmetics, including eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyebrow products, are widely used to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the eyes. While generally considered safe, their application to the delicate periocular region can pose significant risks to ocular surface health. Growing clinical and experimental evidence links the use of eye cosmetics to ocular surface disorders, including blepharitis, conjunctivitis, dry eye syndrome, and meibomian gland dysfunction. These adverse effects may result from mechanical irritation, chemical exposure, microbial contamination, or allergic reactions associated with cosmetic ingredients such as pigments, preservatives, emulsifiers, and fragrances. In addition, emerging periocular aesthetic procedures and novel formulations containing nanoparticles and complex additives may further contribute to ocular surface instability and inflammation. The growing popularity of eye cosmetics, influenced by social media, cultural trends, and the global beauty industry, underscores the importance of understanding their impact on ocular health. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the composition, types, ocular migration, and potential adverse effects of eye cosmetics and periocular aesthetic practices. By highlighting the clinical implications of cosmetic use on the ocular surface, this study emphasizes the need for evidence-based guidance, safe cosmetic practices, and further research to mitigate lifestyle-related ocular risks. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)
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32 pages, 2099 KB  
Review
Macromolecular Fragmentation on the Skin Surface: Formation Mechanisms, Evidence Limitations, and Potential Relevance for Skin Homeostasis
by Keran Jia, Xiao Ning, Liya Song and Jin Cao
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 180; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040180 - 14 Jul 2026
Viewed by 460
Abstract
The skin surface is a dynamic biochemical interface where proteins, polysaccharides, lipids, and microbial or environmental molecules are continuously exposed to ultraviolet(UV) radiation, oxidative stress, mechanical stimulation, pH variation, host-derived enzymes, and microbial enzymes. These factors can generate heterogeneous macromolecular fragments on the [...] Read more.
The skin surface is a dynamic biochemical interface where proteins, polysaccharides, lipids, and microbial or environmental molecules are continuously exposed to ultraviolet(UV) radiation, oxidative stress, mechanical stimulation, pH variation, host-derived enzymes, and microbial enzymes. These factors can generate heterogeneous macromolecular fragments on the skin surface through cleavage, oxidation, structural modification, or enzymatic degradation. However, current evidence does not support interpreting these fragments uniformly as active regulatory molecules. Instead, they should be considered a mixed molecular population that may include passive degradation products, stress-associated markers, host- or microbiome-derived cleavage products and, in some contexts, molecules with potential biological activity. This review summarizes current knowledge on the formation mechanisms, analytical detection, and possible biological relevance of skin surface macromolecular fragments, with emphasis on hyaluronic acid, collagen, keratin, lipids, and microbiome-associated fragments. Evidence from in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies is distinguished to clarify the strengths and limitations of current interpretations. Particular attention is given to contradictory findings, concentration-dependent effects, source attribution, contamination, matrix interference, lack of reference standards, and insufficient functional validation. Overall, skin surface macromolecular fragmentation is better viewed as an emerging analytical and biological framework rather than as a proven regulatory mechanism. Future studies should combine standardized sampling, validated mass spectrometry(MS) workflows, multi-omics integration, reconstructed skin models, microbiota-related models, and controlled human studies to determine whether specific fragments are degradation products, biomarkers, or context-dependent functional molecules. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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21 pages, 12163 KB  
Article
HA20, a Broad-Molecular-Weight Hyaluronic Acid Complex, Supports Transepidermal Bioavailability and Multi-Stress Barrier Protection in Human Skin Models
by Zheng Wang, Yumei Fan, Luxian Zhou, Dandan Jiang, Jiajun Qian and Peixue Ling
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 179; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040179 - 13 Jul 2026
Viewed by 623
Abstract
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely used in skincare, but its efficacy varies with molecular weight (MW), affecting its skin penetration and activity. This study examined whether HA20, a broad-MW HA complex (weight-average MW: 188 kDa, 10–1000 kDa), improves skin absorption and shields human [...] Read more.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely used in skincare, but its efficacy varies with molecular weight (MW), affecting its skin penetration and activity. This study examined whether HA20, a broad-MW HA complex (weight-average MW: 188 kDa, 10–1000 kDa), improves skin absorption and shields human skin models from environmental stress. HA transepidermal bioavailability, extracellular-matrix responses, glyoxal-induced Nε-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML), UVA-induced mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP) loss, Th2 cytokine-induced markers, and dryness-induced barrier changes were assessed in reconstructed human epidermis, dermal fibroblasts, and epidermal keratinocytes. HA20 exhibited greater apparent permeation detectable by ELISA at all time points during the 24 h RHE assay compared to high-MW HA. In fibroblasts, 0.05% HA20 increased type I collagen secretion from 535.20 to 585.47 pg/mL and elastin from 8.68 to 9.24 pg/mL, reduced CML fluorescence to 70.13% of the glyoxal control, and increased MMP-associated fluorescence from 58.76% in the UVA model group to 298.86%. In keratinocytes, 0.1% HA20 reduced IL-4/IL-13-induced NELL2 and CAII expression. Under acute dryness, HA20 maintained stratum corneum morphology and altered transcriptomic signatures related to epidermal differentiation, extracellular matrix organization, and barrier-associated genes, including KRT37, COL7A1, ACER2, and SPRR1A. These findings suggest that HA20 supports barrier resilience mainly through improved transepidermal delivery and ECM or barrier-repair responses. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Article
Heat-Treated Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus Skinbac™ SB06 Modulates Axillary Malodor-Associated Bacteria In Vitro and Demonstrates Antiperspirant and Deodorant Efficacy In Vivo
by Giovanni Deusebio, Annalisa Visciglia, Angela Amoruso and Marco Pane
Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 178; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040178 - 10 Jul 2026
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Abstract
Background: The axillary microbiome is a major contributor to body malodor generation through bacterial metabolism of apocrine and eccrine secretions. Dysbiosis of this microbial community, particularly through overgrowth of odorigenic species such as Staphylococcus aureus, is associated with increased volatile compound [...] Read more.
Background: The axillary microbiome is a major contributor to body malodor generation through bacterial metabolism of apocrine and eccrine secretions. Dysbiosis of this microbial community, particularly through overgrowth of odorigenic species such as Staphylococcus aureus, is associated with increased volatile compound production and local skin inflammation. Heat-treated postbiotics represent a promising class of cosmetic ingredients combining microbiological safety with retained bioactive properties. Objective: We aimed to evaluate the in vitro safety, molecular mechanisms, antipathogen and anti-inflammatory properties of heat-treated Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus Skinbac™ SB06, and to assess the antiperspirant and deodorant efficacy of a deodorant spray formulation containing 1% SB06 in a controlled clinical study. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cytotoxicity (MTT/LDH assays), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, antipathogen activity against Staphylococcus aureus (AlamarBlue assay), cytokine modulation (TNF-α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-23) in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and Peripheral Blood Mononuclear Cells (PBMCs), and axillary microbiome compatibility against Corynebacterium striatum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Staphylococcus hominis by viable plate count (CFU/mL). Clinically, a randomized split-body study (n = 20) evaluated antiperspirant effectiveness by gravimetric sweat collection and deodorant efficacy by expert olfactory panel (Likert 1–5) at 24 and 48 h. Results: In vitro testing confirmed the safety of SB06 (MTT and LDH, both non-significant vs. control). SB06 significantly increased AQP3 expression (+20%, p < 0.001) and significantly reduced ROS production (−48%, p < 0.05). Antipathogen testing showed significant reduction in S. aureus planktonic viability (−7%, p < 0.05). Microbiome compatibility testing on selected axillary-associated strains showed a differential compatibility profile, with the strongest inhibitory effect observed for C. striatum (13% residual viability at T24h, corresponding to 87% inhibition), near-complete preservation of S. epidermidis (92% residual viability at T48h), and a mild reduction in S. hominis (−15% at T48h). Cytokine modulation showed significant IL-8 and IL-23 reduction in NHEK (both p ≤ 0.05) and immunostimulatory activity in PBMCs. Clinically, SB06 reduced sweat production vs. placebo by −21.8% at T24 (p = 0.0009) and −10.0% at T48 (p = 0.0495), with significantly lower odor intensity at both timepoints (median score 3 vs. 4, p < 0.0001). Conclusions: Heat-treated L. rhamnosus SB06 showed a multimodal in vitro profile including antipathogen, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and AQP3-upregulating activities, and was associated with statistically significant antiperspirant and deodorant effects in a randomized controlled split-body study. These findings are consistent with SB06 being a functional postbiotic ingredient with potential for deodorant and antiperspirant applications, pending confirmation in larger controlled studies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)
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