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Cosmetics
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Skin Aging and Dermatosis
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Skin Aging and Dermatosis

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284). This special issue belongs to the section "Cosmetic Dermatology".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (26 February 2026) | Viewed by 2082

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Edwin Lephart

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Cell Biology/Physiology and The Neuroscience Center, College of Life Sciences, Brigham Young University, Provo, UT 84602, USA
Interests: dermatology; menopause; estrogen hormone actions; natural products (phytochemical); factors that influence skin aging
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Zoe D. Draelos

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Dermatology Consulting Services, PLLC, High Point, NC 27262, USA
Interests: dermatology; skin aging; dermatosis
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

This Special Issue, “Skin Aging and Dermatosis”, will explore a variety of topics in the field of dermatology.

Skin aging is natural, such as chronological and photo-aging, is largely unavoidable, but lifestyle factors can slow down or delay aging, extending longevity and improving dermal wellbeing. The most dominant hormonal influence on skin aging is estrogen (17β-estradiol); its gradual decline and eventual loss during menopause affects almost all organ systems, having a profound and overall negative impact of the quality of life of women.

Menopause hormone therapy (MHT) can reverse several skin aging parameters. However, the fear, confusion, and hesitancy of physicians to prescribe MHT to women even with menopausal symptoms (vasomotor, hot flashes, etc.) has led to a scientific re-evaluation of the benefits and risks of MHT, causing a resurgence of topical estrogen applications to combat skin aging and estrogen-deficient skin during menopause. Moreover, there are other active ingredients, such as vitamins C and E, hyaluronic acid, retinoids, niacinamide, and naturally derived products (phytochemicals), that are highly effective in combating skin aging.

Dermatosis is associated with skin aging, the most common conditions of which include dermatoyositis, erythema nodosum, pemphigus vulgaris, psoriasis, sclerodema, Sweet syndrome, systemic lupus erythematosus, and vitiligo. Dermatosis can be caused by a variety of factors, including infections, irritants, allergies, genetic factors, autoimmune issues, and even certain medical conditions or medications.

This Special Issue will present the current status of research and potential future innovations regarding skin aging and dermatosis, serving as a valuable resource for dermatologists and clinical, corporate, and personal care professionals.

You may choose our Joint Special Issue in Life.

Prof. Dr. Edwin Lephart
Dr. Zoe D. Draelos
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 250 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for assessment.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • skin aging
  • chronological dermal aging
  • photo-aging
  • hormone therapy
  • menopause
  • estrogen-deficient skin
  • dermatosis
  • skin conditions

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Further information on MDPI's Special Issue policies can be found here.

Published Papers (2 papers)

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Research

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12 pages, 644 KB  
Article
Heat-Treated Strains of Lactiplantibacillus Plantarum Skinbac™ SB01 and Bifidobacterium animalis spp. Lactis Skinbac™ SB05 Visibly Fight Aging Signs Both In Vitro and In Vivo
by Giovanni Deusebio, Annalisa Visciglia, Angela Amoruso and Marco Pane
Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020076 - 20 Mar 2026
Viewed by 1325
Abstract
Background: The skin microbiome plays a crucial role in maintaining barrier function and preventing inflammaging. Heat-treated probiotics offer stability advantages for topical formulations while potentially maintaining bioactive properties. Objective: To evaluate the safety, molecular mechanisms, and clinical efficacy of heat-treated Lactiplantibacillus plantarum [...] Read more.
Background: The skin microbiome plays a crucial role in maintaining barrier function and preventing inflammaging. Heat-treated probiotics offer stability advantages for topical formulations while potentially maintaining bioactive properties. Objective: To evaluate the safety, molecular mechanisms, and clinical efficacy of heat-treated Lactiplantibacillus plantarum Skinbac™ SB01 and Bifidobacterium animalis spp. lactis Skinbac™ SB05 in reducing visible signs of skin aging. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cytotoxicity (MTT/LDH assays), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). A 30-day open-label clinical study (n = 20 females, 18–70 years) evaluated three formulations (face cream, serum, and eye contour) using instrumental measurements of hydration, elasticity, density, and roughness parameters. Results: In vitro testing showed a significant increase in AQP3 expression (+22% ± 3%, p = 0.03) and a non-significant reduction in ROS levels (−33% ± 9%, p = 0.06) at 107 TFU/well, with no cytotoxicity observed. Clinical evaluation demonstrated statistically significant improvements: eye contour formulation achieved +10.5% deep skin hydration (p < 0.0001) and −11% average roughness (p < 0.0001); serum showed +28.7% immediate hydration (p < 0.0001); and face cream improved gross skin elasticity by +6.3% (p < 0.01). No adverse events were reported. An independent and methodologically distinct placebo-controlled study was included for contextual support and was not directly compared with the present trial; this study evaluated a related 1% postbiotic formulation and reported statistically significant improvements over placebo in roughness, wrinkle depth, hydration, and biomechanical parameters. Conclusions: This pilot study provides preliminary evidence that heat-treated L. plantarum SB01 and B. animalis spp. lactis SB05 formulations could safely improve skin hydration and reduce roughness parameters. While in vitro results show a significant increase in AQP3 expression and an exploratory (non-significant) reduction in ROS levels, larger controlled trials are warranted to confirm clinical efficacy. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Aging and Dermatosis)
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Review

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29 pages, 668 KB  
Review
Dehydroepiandrosterone and Skin: Sex- and Age-Related Mechanisms of Action
by Tatiana A. Fedotcheva and Nikolay L. Shimanovsky
Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030129 - 22 May 2026
Abstract
Geroprotective molecules are currently being actively investigated for the prevention of skin aging. An overview of geroprotectors in dermatology encompasses agents such as antioxidants, ultraviolet (UV) photoprotective agents, chemical peels, and carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers, each with inherent limitations, including poor [...] Read more.
Geroprotective molecules are currently being actively investigated for the prevention of skin aging. An overview of geroprotectors in dermatology encompasses agents such as antioxidants, ultraviolet (UV) photoprotective agents, chemical peels, and carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers, each with inherent limitations, including poor tolerability in individuals with sensitive skin. Regarding biostimulators, high-molecular-weight peptides (exceeding 500 kDa) exhibit limited cutaneous bioavailability, underscoring the need for low-molecular-weight geroprotective compounds. One such candidate is dehydroepiandrosterone DHEA, a neurosteroid with anti-aging and anti-stress properties, which also serves as a precursor to sex steroids. Although topical hormone replacement therapy with estrogens and androgens is being utilized, it remains confined to formal hormone replacement regimens and is associated with a significant adverse effect profile. The aim of this review was to analyze the key molecular mechanisms underlying the effects of DHEA on the skin, with particular emphasis on its metabolism and sex- and age-dependent mechanisms of action. Additionally, this review seeks to elucidate the factors contributing to the absence of approved topical DHEA formulations and to outline the potential of DHEA as an anti-aging agent in dermatological applications. DHEA has demonstrated significant skin-improving effects in several studies; its investigation has been predominantly confined to postmenopausal women. Furthermore, the outcome measures employed in these studies lacked specificity. DHEA is not permitted for use in cosmetic products within the European Union due to its hormonal activity. Its use is only allowed as an extemporaneous formulation under the established regulatory frameworks of individual countries. The indications for its use and the appropriate dosage for men and women must be clearly defined based on the results of future clinical studies. Promising research directions include the pharmacogenetic characterization of steroidogenic enzymes and sex hormone receptors, as well as the evaluation of DHEA in both sexes, specifically in premenopausal women and in men presenting with late-onset hypogonadism. Additionally, the biological effects of the primary metabolites of DHEA, androstenedione, and 5-androstenediol, on the cutaneous function remain unexplored, including their potential anti-aging activity mediated through retinoid receptor activation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Aging and Dermatosis)
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