New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry

Topic Information

Dear Colleagues,

Currently, cosmetics and medical device manufacturers face several challenges in developing innovative products, with the main objective of meeting the different needs of consumers. In this context, the increasingly widespread use of natural compounds as a source of bioactive molecules, associated with the reuse of industrial and natural waste, in a circular economy perspective, brings economic, environmental and performance advantages to this new product. These bioactive molecules have been showing different activities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial. In addition, the advent of the biotechnology industry has brought new ingredients, including growth factors, enzymes, peptides, and stem cells, among others. However, to make the use of these bioactive molecules feasible, optimization of their extraction, purification, and formulation is required. In the past 20 years, we have been witnessing the introduction of nanotechnology systems in cosmetic and medical device products. Their use brings several advantages, such as targeting and promoting the absorption of molecules through the skin and external mucous membranes, protecting molecules from degradation and prolonged release, among others. However, the use of this type of technology in cosmetic and medical device products raises regulatory issues that must be taken into account by manufacturers and deserve deep reflection. With this topic, the editors intend to reflect on the future perspectives of cosmetic and medical device products, taking into account not only the use of bioactive molecules obtained from residues and from biotechnological processes, but also the use of nanotechnology to improve the efficacy of the final products.

Prof. Dr. Ana Catarina Silva
Dr. Hugo Almeida
Prof. Dr. Ana Barros
Topic Editors

Keywords

Participating Journals

Journal Name	Impact Factor	CiteScore	Launched Year	First Decision (median)	APC
Pharmaceuticals pharmaceuticals	4.3	6.1	2004	13.9 Days	CHF 2900
Pharmaceutics pharmaceutics	4.9	7.9	2009	15.5 Days	CHF 2900
Antioxidants antioxidants	6.0	10.6	2012	16.9 Days	CHF 2900
Nanomaterials nanomaterials	4.4	8.5	2010	14.1 Days	CHF 2400
Journal of Functional Biomaterials jfb	5.0	4.6	2010	16.6 Days	CHF 2700
Cosmetics cosmetics	3.4	5.2	2014	22.3 Days	CHF 1800

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Published Papers (7 papers)

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All Pharmaceuticals Pharmaceutics Antioxidants Nanomaterials JFB Cosmetics

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27 pages, 9840 KiB  

Open AccessReview

Antibiotic Action, Drug Delivery, Biodegradability, and Wound Regeneration Characteristics of Surgical Sutures and Cutting-Edge Surgical Suture Manufacturing Technologies

by Hye-Ree Han

J. Funct. Biomater. 2025, 16(4), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/jfb16040135 - 8 Apr 2025

Viewed by 643

Abstract

(1) Background: With the emergence of various super bacteria, interest in antibacterial properties, drug delivery, and wound regeneration is increasing in the field of surgical materials. There are many studies on surgical sutures, but not many recent ones that have studied structurally subdivided [...] Read more.

(1) Background: With the emergence of various super bacteria, interest in antibacterial properties, drug delivery, and wound regeneration is increasing in the field of surgical materials. There are many studies on surgical sutures, but not many recent ones that have studied structurally subdivided functions. Accordingly, various studies on surgical sutures were classified based on the main functions that are considered important, and studies were conducted by categorizing the latest production technology into 3D printing and electrospinning. (2) Methods: Data from the literature (n = 1077) were collected from databases such as PubMed, Harvard.edu, MDPI, Google Scholar, Web of Science, ACS, Nature, and IOP Publishing. The selected 103 papers were divided into two main groups: cutting-edge characteristics of surgical sutures and the latest technologies for manufacturing surgical sutures. (3) Results: Cutting-edge characteristics of surgical sutures were divided into four major categories: antibacterial, drug delivery, biodegradability, and wound regeneration, and examined in depth. In addition, the final technologies for manufacturing surgical sutures were divided into electrospinning and 3D printing. (4) Conclusions: The results of this study can contribute to the development of multifunctional surgical sutures that promote wound regeneration through antibacterial properties, drug elution, and biodegradability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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27 pages, 3026 KiB  

Open AccessArticle

Bioactive Potential of a Grape Stem Blend: A Sustainable Approach to Skin Regeneration

by Mónica Serra, Claudia Botelho, Diana Sousa, Hugo Almeida, Ana Casas, José António Teixeira and Ana Novo Barros

Antioxidants 2025, 14(3), 338; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox14030338 - 13 Mar 2025

Viewed by 601

Abstract

The European wine industry is embracing sustainability through circular economy principles, particularly by valorizing by-products, such as grape stems. Grape stems are rich in phenolic compounds with recognized health benefits. This study investigates the bioactive potential of molecules extracted from a blend of [...] Read more.

The European wine industry is embracing sustainability through circular economy principles, particularly by valorizing by-products, such as grape stems. Grape stems are rich in phenolic compounds with recognized health benefits. This study investigates the bioactive potential of molecules extracted from a blend of grape stems (GS blend extract). The GS blend extract was chemically characterized in terms of total phenolic content (TPC), ortho-diphenol content (ODC), and flavonoid content (FC), with key compounds identified via HPLC-MS. The extract’s antioxidant capacity was assessed using ABTS, FRAP, and DPPH assays, while its anti-aging and depigmenting properties were evaluated through elastase and tyrosinase inhibition assays. Additionally, in vitro assays were conducted to assess its effects on skin cells, including morphology, metabolic activity, cell cycle, and cell migration. The GS blend extract was found to be rich in proanthocyanidins and exhibited notable antioxidant and depigmenting properties. In vitro assays demonstrated that the extract had no significant impact on cellular metabolic activity or cell morphology, although a reorganization of the cell monolayer was observed. Furthermore, deviations in cell migration and cell cycle regulation suggest that the GS blend extract may aid in scar formation management. Notably, the extract arrested fibroblasts in the Sub G0-G1 phase and inhibited HaCaT cell migration, supporting its potential application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations aimed at scar modulation and skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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21 pages, 1174 KiB  

Open AccessReview

Advances in Encapsulating Marine Bioactive Compounds Using Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs) and Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) for Health Applications

by Rita Favas, Hugo Almeida, Andreia F. Peixoto, Domingos Ferreira and Ana C. Silva

Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(12), 1517; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16121517 - 25 Nov 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 851

Abstract

As life expectancy rises and modern lifestyles improve, there is an increasing focus on health, disease prevention, and enhancing physical appearance. Consumers are more aware of the benefits of natural ingredients in healthcare products while also being mindful of sustainability challenges. Consequently, marine [...] Read more.

As life expectancy rises and modern lifestyles improve, there is an increasing focus on health, disease prevention, and enhancing physical appearance. Consumers are more aware of the benefits of natural ingredients in healthcare products while also being mindful of sustainability challenges. Consequently, marine bioactive compounds have gained popularity as ingredients in cosmetics and food supplements due to their diverse beneficial properties. Nonetheless, the use of some of these compounds is restricted by their low stability and poor aqueous solubility, necessitating solutions to overcome these limitations. In this context, lipid nanoparticles, such as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), have been investigated for their potential to protect and improve the absorption of molecules through various routes, including oral and cutaneous. Numerous studies have shown that nanoencapsulating these compounds and incorporating them into cosmetics and food supplements can be effective. However, this application remains unregulated at the global level and is not currently addressed by existing legislation. Additional in vivo studies in both animals and humans are necessary to fully assess safety concerns. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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24 pages, 5452 KiB  

Open AccessArticle

Formulation of Polymeric Nanoparticles Loading Baricitinib as a Topical Approach in Ocular Application

by Negar Beirampour, Paola Bustos-Salgado, Núria Garrós, Roya Mohammadi-Meyabadi, Òscar Domènech, Joaquim Suñer-Carbó, María José Rodríguez-Lagunas, Garyfallia Kapravelou, María Jesús Montes, Ana Calpena and Mireia Mallandrich

Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(8), 1092; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16081092 - 20 Aug 2024

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1501

Abstract

Topical ocular drug delivery faces several challenges due to the eye’s unique anatomy and physiology. Physiological barriers, tear turnover, and blinking hinder the penetration of drugs through the ocular mucosa. In this context, nanoparticles offer several advantages over traditional eye drops. Notably, they [...] Read more.

Topical ocular drug delivery faces several challenges due to the eye’s unique anatomy and physiology. Physiological barriers, tear turnover, and blinking hinder the penetration of drugs through the ocular mucosa. In this context, nanoparticles offer several advantages over traditional eye drops. Notably, they can improve drug solubility and bioavailability, allow for controlled and sustained drug release, and can be designed to specifically target ocular tissues, thus minimizing systemic exposure. This study successfully designed and optimized PLGA and PCL nanoparticles for delivering baricitinib (BTB) to the eye using a factorial design, specifically a three-factor at five-levels central rotatable composite 2³⁺ star design. The nanoparticles were small in size so that they would not cause discomfort when applied to the eye. They exhibited low polydispersity, had a negative surface charge, and showed high entrapment efficiency in most of the optimized formulations. The Challenge Test assessed the microbiological safety of the nanoparticle formulations. An ex vivo permeation study through porcine cornea demonstrated that the nanoparticles enhanced the permeability coefficient of the drug more than 15-fold compared to a plain solution, resulting in drug retention in the tissue and providing a depot effect. Finally, the in vitro ocular tolerance studies showed no signs of irritancy, which was further confirmed by HET-CAM testing. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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54 pages, 4234 KiB  

Open AccessEditor’s ChoiceReview

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug–Membrane Biophysical Interactions

by Eduarda Fernandes, Carla M. Lopes and Marlene Lúcio

Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(6), 807; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16060807 - 14 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1530

Abstract

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in [...] Read more.

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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30 pages, 13440 KiB  

Open AccessArticle

The Synergistic Influence of Polyflavonoids from Citrus aurantifolia on Diabetes Treatment and Their Modulation of the PI3K/AKT/FOXO1 Signaling Pathways: Molecular Docking Analyses and In Vivo Investigations

by Mohamed A. Hassan, Ghada M. Abd Elmageed, Ibtehal G. El-Qazaz, Doaa S. El-Sayed, Lamia M. El-Samad and Heba M. Abdou

Pharmaceutics 2023, 15(9), 2306; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics15092306 - 12 Sep 2023

Cited by 21 | Viewed by 3245

Abstract

This study was aimed at probing the modulatory influence of polyflavonoids extracted from Citrus aurantifolia, lemon peel extract (LPE-polyflavonoids), on attenuating diabetes mellitus (DM) and its complications. HPLC investigations of the LPE exhibited the incidence of five flavonoids, including diosmin, biochanin A, [...] Read more.

This study was aimed at probing the modulatory influence of polyflavonoids extracted from Citrus aurantifolia, lemon peel extract (LPE-polyflavonoids), on attenuating diabetes mellitus (DM) and its complications. HPLC investigations of the LPE exhibited the incidence of five flavonoids, including diosmin, biochanin A, hesperidin, quercetin, and hesperetin. The in silico impact on ligand-phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K) interaction was investigated in terms of polyflavonoid class to explore the non-covalent intakes and binding affinity to the known protein active site. The drug likeness properties and pharmacokinetic parameters of the LPE-polyflavonoids were investigated to assess their bioavailability in relation to Myricetin as a control. Remarkably, the molecular docking studies demonstrated a prominent affinity score of all these agents together with PI3K, implying the potency of the extract to orchestrate PI3K, which is the predominant signal for lessening the level of blood glucose. To verify these findings, in vivo studies were conducted, utilizing diabetic male albino rats treated with LPE-polyflavonoids and other groups treated with hesperidin and diosmin as single flavonoids. Our findings demonstrated that the LPE-polyflavonoids significantly ameliorated the levels of glucose, insulin, glycogen, liver function, carbohydrate metabolizing enzymes, G6Pd, and AGEs compared to the diabetic rats and those exposed to hesperidin and diosmin. Furthermore, the LPE-polyflavonoids regulated the TBARS, GSH, CAT, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, and AFP levels in the pancreatic and hepatic tissues, suggesting their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the pancreatic and hepatic GLUT4 and GLUT2 were noticeably increased in addition to the pancreatic p-AKT in the rats administered with the LPE-polyflavonoids compared to the other diabetic rats. Remarkably, the administration of LPE-polyflavonoids upregulated the expression of the pancreatic and hepatic PI3K, AMPK, and FOXO1 genes, emphasizing the efficiency of the LPE in orchestrating all the signaling pathways necessitated to reduce the diabetes mellitus. Notably, the histopathological examinations of the pancreatic and hepatic tissues corroborated the biochemical results. Altogether, our findings accentuated the potential therapeutic role of LPE-polyflavonoids in controlling diabetes mellitus. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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11 pages, 712 KiB  

Open AccessArticle

Combined Bipolar Radiofrequency and Non-Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid Mesotherapy Protocol to Improve Skin Appearance and Epidermal Barrier Function: A Pilot Study

by Anna Płatkowska, Szymon Korzekwa, Bartłomiej Łukasik and Nicola Zerbinati

Pharmaceuticals 2023, 16(8), 1145; https://doi.org/10.3390/ph16081145 - 12 Aug 2023

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 3803

Abstract

Background: Age-associated changes in epidermal hydration, pigmentation, thickness and cell renewal influence skin appearance and can lead to laxity, dryness and poor skin tone. The aim of this pilot study was to assess the synergistic effects of a new bipolar radiofrequency plus non-crosslinked [...] Read more.

Background: Age-associated changes in epidermal hydration, pigmentation, thickness and cell renewal influence skin appearance and can lead to laxity, dryness and poor skin tone. The aim of this pilot study was to assess the synergistic effects of a new bipolar radiofrequency plus non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid (HA) mesotherapy protocol compared with radiofrequency alone on skin appearance and markers of epidermal function. Methods: This prospective, single-center, split-face pilot study recruited women aged 25–65 years with dryness and laxity of the facial skin defined by a trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) value of ≥26 g/m²/h. Subjects were treated with a bipolar radiofrequency device on both sides of the face. This was immediately followed by needle hyaluronic acid (HA) treatment on one side of the face with 2.5 mL of a non-crosslinked HA. Photographic documentation, analysis of epidermal barrier function parameters, and high frequency (HF) ultrasound analysis were performed prior to treatment and at 28 days. Results: Twenty female subjects with a mean age of 46 (range 29 to 54) years and dry and lax facial skin were included. TEWL was reduced and skin hydration improved to a greater extent with the combined radiofrequency plus mesotherapy protocol compared with radiofrequency alone (−5.8% vs. +3.9% and +23.1% vs. +1.0%, respectively). The combined protocol was also associated with greater improvements in melanin (−7.5% vs. −1.5%) and erythema values (−7.2% vs. +3.0%), respectively. Ultrasound measures of epidermal thickness and epidermal density were greater after the combined protocol compared with radiofrequency alone (12.0% vs. 5.6% and 57.7% vs. 7.1%, respectively). Both treatments were well-tolerated. Conclusions: The combined bipolar radiofrequency and HA mesotherapy protocol provided greater improvements in skin hydration, firmness and tone compared with radiofrequency alone. The combination treatment was also associated with greater epidermal thickness and density and increased keratinocyte differentiation suggesting a synergistic effect of both treatments on epidermal homeostasis and barrier function. Both treatments were well-tolerated and led to improvements in facial appearance. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic New Challenges in the Cosmetics Industry)

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