1. Introduction
Skin ageing is a multifaceted process influenced by intrinsic biological factors, genetic predispositions, and external impacts, among which photoageing induced by ultraviolet (UV) radiation significantly accelerates this process [
1,
2]. Persistent photoageing damages skin DNA and degrades collagen and elastin. It triggers the production of free radicals, leading to a series of skin-related issues such as uneven pigmentation, laxity, yellowing, wrinkles, telangiectasia, leathery skin texture, and malignant skin tumours [
3,
4,
5]. Based on the Market Analysis Report [
6], the survey indicates that driven by rising consumer demand for anti-ageing products and advances in technology that improve stability and reduce side effects, the application of retinol and its derivatives in the skincare and pharmaceutical markets is rapidly expanding.
Numerous studies have demonstrated that retinol and its derivatives can be oxidised to retinaldehyde, which is further metabolised into retinoic acid. Retinoic acid can bind to specific proteins and nuclear receptors, thereby stimulating skin regeneration and enhancing various skin physiological properties [
7]. It not only promotes collagen production in the dermis [
8], improves skin elasticity, and reduces wrinkles [
9] but also effectively inhibits UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity in the skin, preventing photoageing [
10]. Quan [
11] emphasised that topical retinol shows promise in enhancing skin texture, reducing fine lines, and increasing the thickness of both the epidermis and dermis. [
9] also pointed out that topical retinol, at specific concentrations and exposure times, can maintain epidermal barrier function and promote skin health. However, there are some limitations to the daily use of retinol [
12]. Due to its specific physicochemical properties, retinol is highly sensitive to light, temperature, oxygen, and other conditions. It is prone to losing activity, resulting in poor transdermal absorption, low utilisation, and complex storage. Additionally, retinol can be irritating, with some users experiencing mild irritation, skin dryness, flaking, and redness [
7]. High concentrations (0.5–1%) of retinol may cause more frequent and intense symptoms, such as dermatitis [
13,
14], while low doses typically do not significantly improve photoaged skin.
Retinyl palmitate, a derivative of retinol, although requiring two-step conversion to become retinoic acid to exert its effects, exhibits relatively better stability and mildness [
15]. Quickly absorbed by the skin, retinyl palmitate is converted into retinol, thereby exerting anti-ageing effects within the skin. The primary functions of retinyl palmitate include accelerating skin metabolism, promoting cell proliferation, and stimulating collagen production [
16]. In a study comparing the anti-photoageing effects of five types of retinoids, retinyl palmitate and retinol both demonstrated significant anti-photoageing activity and showed the best therapeutic effects in a UVB-induced photoageing mouse model [
17]. However, the single use of retinyl palmitate also presents issues of limited functionality, making it difficult to address the multiple problems caused by skin photoageing comprehensively. On the one hand, as an effective anti-wrinkle agent, RP has limited water solubility and is prone to degradation during topical application [
18]. On the other hand, numerous clinical applications have demonstrated its translation (or efficacy) in practical use. The anti-ageing effects of retinyl palmitate require long-term and continuous use to become apparent, and cessation of use may lead to a resurgence of ageing signs. Therefore, further research is needed to investigate the biological photoprotective effects of topical application of high-concentration retinyl palmitate.
Another aspect is some studies have already investigated the actions of natural chemical compounds [
19,
20,
21]. In our preliminary research, we discussed the effects and mechanisms of combined therapy using natural active ingredients such as hydroxycinnamoyl esters and retinol on skin anti-photoageing. Our studies have shown that the combined use of retinol and hydroxycinnamoyl esters can effectively soothe the skin through pathways such as protein metabolism, the tricarboxylic acid (TCA) cycle, ketone metabolism, glucose generation of pyruvate, and metabolism of aspartate and glutamate. Although there are currently no articles specifically addressing the effects of retinol and retinyl palmitate in combating skin ageing, recent research has shown that retinol and retinyl palmitate have great potential in the transdermal delivery of pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients by altering the dense secondary structure of keratin, thereby reducing the skin barrier effect [
22].
To overcome the limitations of using retinol and retinyl palmitate as single ingredients, this study proposes an innovative strategy: the combined use of retinol (RT) and retinyl palmitate (RP), aiming to overcome the limitations of single ingredients in anti-photoageing applications and enhance the biological safety during use. Our core objective is to systematically investigate the effects of RP, RT, and their combination (RP&RT) on the epidermal and dermal structures, as well as their potential roles in metabolic regulation under UVB radiation through a series of in vitro experiments and animal model studies. Specifically, we aim to effectively repair skin damage caused by photoageing by reducing the concentration of highly irritant RT and leveraging the effect of RP and RT in combination. Furthermore, an in-depth exploration of the impact of RP&RT combination therapy on epidermal cell structure, proliferative capacity, oxidative damage levels, and the expression of key proteins will further deepen our understanding of the changes in epidermal and dermal structures induced by UVB, as well as their associated metabolic regulation mechanisms, providing a scientific basis for the development of efficient and safe anti-photoageing strategies.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Materials
Retinol (C20H30O, ≥95% purity) and retinyl palmitate (C36H60O2, ≥90% purity) were provided by Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd. (Shenzhen, China). HaCaT cells were purchased from the China Center for Type Culture Collection (Beijing, China). Dulbecco’s modified eagle medium (DMEM), phosphate-buffered saline (PBS), and Trypsin-EDTA (0.25%) were from Gibco (Grand Island, NE, USA). Fetal bovine serum (FBS) was from Vivacell (Shanghai, China). 4′,6-diamidino-2-phenylindole (DAPI) solution was purchased from Beyotime (Shanghai, China). Bovine serum albumin (BSA), Triton X-100, PPAR-α rabbit pAb, goat anti-rabbit IgG second antibody, IL-1β antibody, IL-6 antibody, TNF-α antibody, COL-1 antibody, and HRP-labeled second antibody were from Sigma-Aldrich (St. Louis, MO, USA). The chemical reagents were of analytical grade and provided by Aladdin (Shanghai, China). HaCaT cells (the cell line used) originate from the Natural Products and Big Health Team Laboratory at the School of Biomedicine, Guangdong University of Technology. Sterile, defibrinated sheep blood was purchased from Hongquan Biotech Co., Ltd. (Guangzhou, China).
2.2. Cell Migration Assay
The experiment was divided into control, UVB, RP, RT, and RP&RT groups. HaCaT cells were inoculated in a 24-well plate at a density of 50,000 cells per well and cultured in a CO2 incubator at 37 °C for 24 h. After 24 h, the plates were removed and washed twice with PBS. All groups, except for the control group, were exposed to UVB irradiation at 40 mJ/cm2. Using sterile 200 μL pipette tips, scratches were made on the cells in the wells. The wells were washed twice with PBS and imaged under a microscope to obtain 0 h images. Subsequently, PBS was replaced with DMEM containing FBS, RT (2 μg/mL), RP (1 μg/mL), or RT&RP (0.5 μg/mL) for each group, and the plates were placed back into the incubator for 24 h. After 24 h, the plates were removed from the incubator, and after washing each well twice with PBS, they were examined under a microscope and photographed to obtain 24 h images. Images were analysed using Image-Pro Plus 6.0 software, where 6 to 8 horizontal lines were randomly drawn, and the average distance between the cells was measured, with migration rate = (0 h scratch width–24 h scratch width)/0 h scratch width × 100%.
2.3. Expression of PPAR-α in HaCaT Cells
The steps for subculturing were repeated, maintaining consistency with the initial cell seeding, grouping for drug administration, and modelling procedures employed in the Cell Migration Assay. Following 24 h of modelling and drug administration, the supernatant from the cell culture plate was removed. The HaCaT cells were fixed with fixing solution for 10 min, permeabilised with 0.5% Triton X-100 for 10 min, and washed thrice with PBS. A 1% BSA solution was introduced for blocking for one hour. Post-blocking, PPAR-α Antibody (1:200) was added to the cell culture plate and left to incubate overnight at 4 °C. Subsequently, the plate was washed three times with PBS. Cy3-labeled goat anti-rabbit IgG (1:500) was added and incubated for 2 h under light exclusion. Following this, a dark incubation with 10 μg/mL of DAPI for 10 min was conducted, followed by three PBS washes. Fluorescence microscopy images were captured using an inverted microscope, and Image-Pro Plus 6.0 was utilised for light density calculations. Data analysis and visualisation were performed using GraphPad Prism 8.0.3.
2.4. In Vitro Hemolysis Assay and Skin Irritation by Hemoglobin Degeneration
Add 1 mL of sterile defibrinated sheep blood to a 15 mL centrifuge tube. Add 8 mL of 37 °C PBS and mix thoroughly. Then, centrifuge at 3800 rpm for 15 min to remove the protein layer from the supernatant. Repeat these steps 3 times. After completion, add 10 mL of 37 °C PBS and set aside. Prepare solutions of 16 mg/mL retinol (RT), 80 mg/mL retinyl palmitate (RP), and a mixture of 16 mg/mL RT and 80 mg/mL RP dissolved in 100 µL ethanol and 900 µL PBS. Mix these three sample groups and PBS in equal volumes, diluting them into four gradients for each group: RT at 2 mg/mL, 1 mg/mL, 0.5 mg/mL, and 0.25 mg/mL. Mix the red blood cell suspension with the solutions from the four gradients mentioned above in equal volumes, with a total volume of 1 mL. Incubate at 37 °C for 1 h. Stop the reaction by centrifuging at 1000 rpm for 5 min. Take the supernatant for imaging, measure the absorbance values at 410 nm, 540 nm, and 575 nm using an ELISA reader, and calculate the hemolysis rate. The positive control group for this experiment (complete hemolysis) is deionised water, and the negative control group (no hemolysis) is the PBS group.
2.5. Establishment of Animal Model
A total of 30 KM mice, 6 weeks old, male, SPF grade, weighing 20–25 g, were purchased from the Animal Ethics Committee of Guangdong University of Technology (Guangzhou, China; SCXK/20231101). Before the experiment, the mice were randomly assigned to five groups with 6 mice in each group: a control group, a model group, an RP group (0.25% RP), an RT group (0.05% RT), and a combination group (0.25% RP + 0.05% RT). After acclimatisation, the mice underwent treatment with the respective compounds.
The control group received standard feeding without any treatment. Other groups were exposed to UVB irradiation (Each group dose was 300 mJ/day), with irradiation once every other day for 28 days; subsequently, the drugs were applied daily to the back skin of mice in each group. In the model group, 200 μL of saline was used, while 200 μL of a solution containing 0.25% retinyl palmitate was applied in the RP group. The RT group received 200 μL of a solution containing 0.05% retinol, and the RP&RT group was treated with 200 μL of a combined solution containing 0.25% retinyl palmitate and 0.05% retinol. On the 29th day, photographs of the back skin of the mice were taken, and the severity of inflammation was scored. The scoring criteria were defined as follows: (1) skin was smooth with no wrinkles or erythema; (2) a small amount of erythema, fine lines, or scabs were present; (3) slight shallow wrinkles, moderate erythema, or scabbing was observed; (4) numerous shallow wrinkles and severe erythema or scabs were evident; (5) skin exhibited thickening, deep wrinkles, or erosion [
23]. After the images were taken, the mice were then euthanised by cervical dislocation, and their back skin was collected, fixed in 4% paraformaldehyde, and prepared for further analysis.
2.6. Hematoxylin and Eosin Staining
The skin tissue fixed in 4% paraformaldehyde was embedded. Following standard histological procedures, the embedded tissue was sectioned into thin slices, typically 4–5 micrometres in thickness, using a microtome. These sections were then stained with a Hematoxylin and Eosin staining solution. Subsequently, dehydration and sealing were performed. Finally, the fully automated slide scanning system was used to analyse stained sections and capture high-resolution images of the tissue. Image-Pro Plus 6.0 software was used to analyse the optical density values in the images.
2.7. Toluidine Blue Staining
The skin tissue was embedded in paraffin, then immersed in xylene and a series of gradient ethanol solutions, followed by hydration in distilled water. The hydrated samples were stained with toluidine blue solution for 10 min, thoroughly rinsed with running water for 2 min and differentiated with 1% glacial acetic acid. After differentiation, the samples were washed with tap water for 5 min, dried in an oven, and dehydrated in absolute ethanol. The dehydrated sections were immersed in xylene for 2 min and mounted with neutral resin, and images were captured using a scanning system. The stained sections were analysed for mast cell infiltration using Image-Pro Plus 6.0 software.
2.8. Masson Staining
The paraffin-embedded skin tissue was sequentially immersed in xylene, gradient ethanol, and water. It was then stained with Weigert’s iron hematoxylin for 5 min, followed by washing with water. Differentiation was performed with 1% hydrochloric acid alcohol for a few seconds, and the sections were rinsed with running water. Next, the tissue was stained with Ponceau acidic fuchsin solution for 5 min, washed with water, and then stained with phosphomolybdic acid aqueous solution for another 5 min. This was followed by counterstaining with aniline blue solution for 5 min and differentiation with 1% glacial acetic acid for 1 min. The sections were then dehydrated using gradient ethanol and mounted with neutral resin. Images were captured using an automated slide scanning system, and the optical density values in the images were analysed using Image-Pro Plus 6.0 software.
2.9. Immunohistochemistry Staining
The paraffin-embedded tissue sections were dewaxed in xylene for 15 min and then sequentially immersed in 100%, 95%, and 80% ethanol solutions for 5 min each. The sections were further soaked in pure water for 5 min and washed with PBS buffer for 5 min. They were then immersed in 3% hydrogen peroxide solution for 15 min to block endogenous peroxidase activity, followed by another PBS wash for 5 min. Antigen retrieval was performed, and after a subsequent PBS wash, the sections were covered with 5% BSA solution and incubated in a 37 °C incubator for 30 min for blocking. Primary antibodies targeting COL-1, TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β were applied, and the sections were incubated overnight at 4 °C. After washing with PBST, HRP-labeled anti-rabbit IgG were added, and the sections were incubated at room temperature for 1 h. DAB chromogen solution was then applied to develop the colour, and the reaction was stopped using PBS buffer. The sections were rinsed with running water for 8 min, followed by dehydration using gradient ethanol, clearing in xylene, and sealing with neutral resin. Images were captured using an automated digital slide scanner, and the optical density values of the images were analysed using Image-Pro Plus 6.0 software 6.0.
2.10. Transcriptome Analysis
For transcriptome sequencing, data libraries were processed using the Illumina HiSeq 4000 platform (St. Louis, MO, USA). Low-quality data were filtered out using a stringent quality control method to ensure the integrity of the sequencing data. This process involved the removal of sequences containing adapters, sequences with more than 10% ambiguous bases (N), sequences predominantly composed of base A, and sequences with over 50% low-quality bases (Q ≤ 20). Subsequent analyses, including ribosomal RNA alignment, sequence alignment, reference genome alignment, and transcript reconstruction, were conducted using Bowtie2, HISAT2, and StringTie. Gene expression levels for all samples were quantified, followed by sample correlation analysis and differential gene expression analysis. Genes with an FDR < 0.05 and |log2(FC)| > 1 were identified as significantly differentially expressed. Differentially expressed proteins were further analysed in the GO database, and genes were categorised and functionally annotated using the GO and KEGG databases for a comprehensive analysis of biological processes and pathways.
2.11. Metabolomics Analysis
The selected metabolomics experimental method was based on earlier studies. A total of 0.1 g of skin tissue was mixed with 1 mL of chromatography-grade methanol, then homogenised by centrifugation at 13,000 rpm for 15 min at 4 °C. The supernatant was subsequently filtered using a 0.22 μm filter (NEST Biotechnology), and 100 μL of the filtrate was transferred into vials for further analysis. Target compounds were chromatographically separated using an ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) system with a liquid chromatography column. The chromatographic setup included the Agilent 1290 Infinity LC UPLC system, a hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) column, a separation temperature of 25 °C, a flow rate of 0.5 mL/min, and an injection volume of 2 µL. The mobile phase consisted of solvent A, a mixture of water with 25 mmol/L ammonium acetate and 25 mmol/L ammonia solution, and solvent B, acetonitrile. The elution conditions were as follows: 0→0.5 min, 95% B; 0.5→7 min, 95%→65% B; 7→8 min, 65%→40% B; 8→9 min, 40% B; 9→9.1 min, 40%→95% B; 9.1→12 min, 95% B. Sample spectra, including both primary and secondary levels, were acquired using an AB Triple TOF 6600 mass spectrometer. The ESI source conditions included ion source gas one and gas 2 at 60 psi, curtain gas at 30 psi, and ion source voltage of ±5500 V (applicable for both positive and negative ion modes). The TOF-MS scan ranged from m/z 60 to 1000 Da, and the product ion scan ranged from m/z 25 to 1000 Da. Secondary mass spectrometry was conducted in data-dependent acquisition mode with high sensitivity. The accumulation potentials for positive and negative ions were set to ±60 V, and the collision energy was (35 ± 15) eV.
2.12. Chemical Similarity Analysis of RT and RP
Previous studies showed that the level of effect in drug combinations was significantly correlated with structural compound differences and their similarity in inducing changes in gene expression [
24]. Chemical structure information in SMILES format was downloaded from PubChem, and the MACCS fingerprint for each drug was calculated using RDKit (
https://rdkit.org (accessed on 2 January 2024)). A molecular fingerprint is a binary (bit string) representation of a molecule’s structure. If two drug molecules have the A and B bits set in their MACCS fragment bit strings, and C represents the bits set in both fingerprints, the Tanimoto coefficient (T) for the drug pair was defined as follows [
25]: T = C/(A + B − C).
2.13. Network Pharmacology
The search for the “skin dry”, “skin allergies”, “skin ageing”, “photoageing”, and “skin soothing” keywords in the GeneCards database (
www.genecards.org/ (accessed on 10 February 2024)) generated targets related to skin ageing. The small molecule substances RP (CAS: 79-81-2) and RT (CAS: 68-26-8) were input into the Pubchem website (
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ (accessed on 10 February 2024)), and the SMILES structural formulas of RP and RT were obtained. After analysing and selecting the species as “Homo sapiens” from SwisstargetPrediction (SwissTargetPrediction), potential targets were obtained after the screening with a Probability >0.1. Their intersections with senescence were determined through Venny (
https://bioinfogp.cnb.csic.es/tools/venny/index.html (accessed on 10 February 2024)). The tool STRING (
www.string-db.org/ (accessed on 11 February 2024)) was used to examine the direct and indirect interplays among these targets. Subsequently, a PPI network map was created, visualising the top 10 targets of the highest degree. Subsequently, a PPI network map was created, visualising the top 10 targets of the highest degree through Cytoscape software 3.9.1. DAVID (
https://david.ncifcrf.gov (accessed on 12 February 2024)) served the purpose of categorising Gene Ontology (GO) and enriching pathways in the Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG). Visualisation of GO terms and KEGG pathways was achieved through the online tool Weishengxin (
https://www.bioinformatics.com.cn/ (accessed on 12 February 2024)).
2.14. Molecular Docking
First, the ligand structures of retinol and retinyl palmitate were prepared in SDF file format and imported into the Discovery Studio 2019 (DS) client software for preprocessing, such as structure conversion and optimisation. Then, the crystal structure PDB files of the target proteins COL-I (5N3K), IL-6 (1ALU), IL-1β (1ITB), and TNF-α (7KPA) were downloaded from the RCSB PDB website (
https://www.rcsb.org/ (accessed on 20 February 2024)) and preprocessed in DS by removing “water” and “ligands” and adding “hydrogens.” After preparing the proteins, the active site prediction was conducted by clicking “Define Site from Receptor Cavity” to locate the docking pocket. Using the centre of the predicted pocket position as the origin of coordinates, a docking box was created, with the shape and size depending on the project requirements. Once these steps were completed, docking parameters were set using “Dock Ligands (CDOCKER)” with the appropriate docking accuracy selected. The structure files and parameter files were checked, and server resources were utilised to initiate the docking process according to the project requirements.
2.15. Statistical Analysis
The results were expressed as mean ± standard deviation (SD) of triple values. One-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) was utilised to compare the means across multiple groups. In contrast, pairwise comparisons between smaller groups were performed using a two-sided Student’s t-test, conducted with GraphPad Prism software 8.0.2(263), where * p < 0.05 and ** p < 0.01 were considered statistically significant.
4. Discussion
As the outermost organ of the human body, the skin serves not only as the first line of defence against external threats but is also highly susceptible to accelerated ageing due to environmental factors [
37]. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation interacts directly with DNA, inducing the production of pro-inflammatory mediators and reactive oxygen species (ROS), which disrupt the skin’s self-regulatory mechanisms. This leads to photoageing effects such as wrinkle formation, pigmentation, and loss of skin elasticity. Both retinol and retinyl palmitate, when used individually, have been shown to effectively enhance the synthesis of key extracellular matrix components, such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid [
38,
39]. Furthermore, studies on the combined treatment of retinol and asiaticoside for skin photoageing suggest the potential for effects between retinol and retinyl palmitate [
40,
41].
In the field of skincare, retinol is frequently utilised as an active ingredient in cosmetics. It influences the epidermal keratinisation process, improves the structure of the stratum corneum, and reduces transepidermal water loss. Furthermore, it significantly enhances skin appearance, brightens pigmentation, and reduces signs of photoageing. However, despite its crucial role in combating photoageing, excessive use of retinol can lead to skin irritation or allergic reactions in some cases. Additionally, the instability of retinol limits its development as a cosmetic ingredient. Retinyl palmitate, a derivative of vitamin A, is commonly used in skincare products. It is similar to retinol but relatively more stable, gradually converting into retinol within the skin, thereby exhibiting antioxidant properties and promoting cellular renewal.
This study explored the effects of combined treatment. The advantage of the cell scratch wound healing assay lies in its ability to observe and quantitatively analyse cell migration speed and direction visually. PPAR-α is primarily expressed in tissues such as the liver, heart, and kidneys, regulating processes such as lipid metabolism, cholesterol metabolism, and glucose metabolism. Our research demonstrated that after treatment with retinol and retinyl palmitate, cell migration activity significantly increased, and the expression of PPAR-α protein, related to skin ageing, was markedly restored compared to the UV model group. The haemoglobin denaturation test is used to assess the impact of compounds on haemoglobin structure, detecting structural changes due to denaturation that may lead to functional loss. This test is commonly employed to evaluate the effects of compounds on protein structure, particularly in assessing skin irritation caused by drugs, cosmetics, or other compounds. The hemolysis test for the combined use of retinol and retinyl palmitate indicated that their joint application could effectively reduce skin irritation or allergic reactions caused by retinol, providing better biocompatibility and potentially leading to more comprehensive and effective therapeutic outcomes. Immunohistochemical results revealed that retinol could directly stimulate collagen production and improve skin structure, while retinyl palmitate gradually converts into retinol within the skin, exerting similar effects. When used, they may jointly promote skin cell renewal and repair, accelerating the recovery process of skin damage. Metabolomics research findings showed that retinol and retinyl palmitate jointly regulate the secretion of various metabolites, such as DL-arginine, L-glutathione (reduced form), and 5-(3′-hydroxyphenyl)-γ-valerolactone-3′-O-glucuronide, which play crucial roles in skin health. When used in combination, they may promote skin health and enhance biosafety by regulating metabolite secretion. Transcriptomics studies revealed that the combined treatment of retinol and retinyl palmitate may combat photoageing through multiple pathways, including allograft rejection, drug metabolism, extracellular ma-trix-receptor interaction, vitamin B6 metabolism, and retinol metabolism. This multi-pathway effect not only enhances drug efficacy but also helps reduce potential side effects associated with single-pathway treatment, improving biosafety.
In summary, the use of retinol and retinyl palmitate enhances biosafety by reducing skin irritation and allergic reactions, enhancing antioxidant properties, promoting cell renewal and repair, improving drug stability and bioavailability, combating photoageing through multi-pathway, and regulating metabolite secretion.