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Cosmetics
Volume 13
Issue 1
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Cosmetics, Volume 13, Issue 1 (February 2026) – 31 articles

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27 pages, 3447 KB  
Article
Nanocellulose-Stabilized Pickering Emulsions for Cosmetic Applications
by Ana Júlia Vaz de Melo Soares, Dislyane Trajano da Silva, Maryana Rogéria dos Santos, Gleice Paula de Araújo, Andréa Fernanda de Santana Costa, Attilio Converti, Italo José Batista Durval and Leonie Asfora Sarubbo
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 31; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010031 - 30 Jan 2026
Viewed by 79
Abstract
The development of innovative cosmetic ingredients has driven growing interest in emulsion systems that combine performance, stability, and sustainability. Pickering emulsions can form physically stable systems by adsorbing solid particles at the oil–water interface. In this study, bacterial cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) and nanocrystals [...] Read more.
The development of innovative cosmetic ingredients has driven growing interest in emulsion systems that combine performance, stability, and sustainability. Pickering emulsions can form physically stable systems by adsorbing solid particles at the oil–water interface. In this study, bacterial cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) and nanocrystals (CNCs), obtained via acid hydrolysis, were evaluated as stabilizing agents in Pickering emulsions containing jojoba, castor, and grape seed oils for hair conditioning applications. Structural and physicochemical characterization revealed that CNCs exhibited higher crystallinity, a narrower size distribution, and a higher negative surface charge than CNFs, resulting in enhanced colloidal stability. Emulsion analyses showed that CNCs more effectively reduced interfacial tension and produced smaller, more homogeneous droplets. Stability assessments under pH variation, thermal stress, and storage demonstrated that CNC-stabilized emulsions, particularly with castor oil, maintained stability indices above 95% for up to 60 days, whereas CNF-based systems showed greater sensitivity to environmental conditions. The incorporation of CNCs into a prototype conditioning cream resulted in a creamy texture and improved physical stability without compromising formulation performance. Overall, these results highlight CNCs as robust and efficient stabilizing materials for Pickering emulsions, reinforcing the potential of bacterial nanocellulose in advanced cosmetic formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
18 pages, 280 KB  
Article
Evaluation of Combined Chemical Peeling and Microneedling Protocols in the Treatment of Acne-Prone Skin: A Pilot Study
by Șoimița Emiliana Măgerușan, Gabriel Hancu and Aura Rusu
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 30; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010030 - 28 Jan 2026
Viewed by 146
Abstract
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological disorder characterized by excessive sebum production, impaired skin hydration, enlarged pores, and persistent lesions. Chemical peeling is a well-established procedure in cosmetic dermatology, while microneedling has emerged as a promising minimally invasive procedure; however, evidence on their [...] Read more.
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological disorder characterized by excessive sebum production, impaired skin hydration, enlarged pores, and persistent lesions. Chemical peeling is a well-established procedure in cosmetic dermatology, while microneedling has emerged as a promising minimally invasive procedure; however, evidence on their combined use remains limited. This pilot study aimed to compare the efficacy of chemical peeling, combined chemical peeling with microneedling, and a classic cosmetic protocol in patients with mild to moderate acne. Fifteen participants aged 18–45 years were divided into three groups according to the treatment protocol. Groups 1 (chemical peeling) and 3 (classic cosmetic care) each received four sessions at two-week intervals, whereas Group 2 (combined peeling with microneedling) completed seven sessions. Sebum levels, hydration, pore counts, and acne lesions were assessed using digital skin analysis and evaluated statistically by one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s HSD test (p < 0.05). Chemical peeling reduced sebum secretion (−17–18%) and acne lesions (−14%) and increased hydration (+22%), although pore counts increased (+8–18%). The combined protocol achieved the most pronounced seboregulation (−23–25%) and lesion reduction (−22%) with pore reduction (−7%), but hydration decreased (−14–19%). The classic treatment produced only modest effects, mainly a slight decrease in sebum (−10%) and lesions (−8%), accompanied by dehydration (−23–26%) and increased pore counts (+14–16%). These findings indicate the efficacy of chemical peeling and its enhancement through combination with microneedling, emphasizing the need for individualized cosmetic strategies and further validation in larger controlled trials. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
13 pages, 768 KB  
Article
Development, Tolerability and In Vitro Effectiveness of a Natural Cosmetic Formulation for Mosquito Bites
by Ketty Gianesin, Elisa Caracciolo, Paolo Lucchese, Emilio Baixauli and Justyna M. Meissner
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 29; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010029 - 27 Jan 2026
Viewed by 261
Abstract
Skin irritation and itching, often intense, are common consequences of mosquito bites. Interest in cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients has markedly increased among consumers, perceiving them as healthier, safer and more sustainable. We developed a natural formulation based on botanical ingredients for the [...] Read more.
Skin irritation and itching, often intense, are common consequences of mosquito bites. Interest in cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients has markedly increased among consumers, perceiving them as healthier, safer and more sustainable. We developed a natural formulation based on botanical ingredients for the treatment of mosquito bites. In this work, we tested the physicochemical and microbiological stability of this novel formulation, as well as its skin tolerance. Moreover, we performed an in vitro test to assess its soothing efficacy in comparison with an ammonia-based product. According to our findings, the natural formulation resulted in a stable oil-in-water emulsion, with an appealing texture and good skin tolerance; no cases of erythema or edema were observed in any of the volunteers with sensitive skin after product application. In addition, an in vitro test performed on a keratinocytes cell line showed that our formulation significantly reduced IL-1α levels, with a displayed efficacy comparable to the ammonia-based product. This study emphasizes the promising potential of botanical ingredients in the field of cosmetic dermatology, offering high-performance, well-tolerated skincare products suitable for the treatment of common skin irritations, such as mosquito bites. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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15 pages, 5910 KB  
Article
Evaluation of Cacumen Platycladi Extract for Hair Loss Prevention: Mechanisms, Efficacy, and Clinical Application
by Xue-Dong Bai, Yu-Chen Liu, Hong-Yun Zhao, Yi-Zhou Luo, Li-Jun Xu and Feng Luo
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 28; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010028 - 26 Jan 2026
Viewed by 197
Abstract
Hair loss is a prevalent condition with various causes, and effective treatments are in high demand. Cacumen Platycladi (Platycladus orientalis leaves), a traditional Chinese medicine, has been historically used to prevent hair loss. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and mechanisms [...] Read more.
Hair loss is a prevalent condition with various causes, and effective treatments are in high demand. Cacumen Platycladi (Platycladus orientalis leaves), a traditional Chinese medicine, has been historically used to prevent hair loss. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and mechanisms of Cacumen Platycladi extract (CPE) in preventing hair loss. Using a gradient extraction method with 1,3-butanediol, ethanol, and water, bioactive compounds like quercitrin, myricetin, and myricitrin were enriched and identified via Liquid Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS). The results showed that CPE inhibited 5α-reductase activity, enhanced the antioxidant capacity of human dermal papilla cells (HDPCs), and upregulated the phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt)/mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) pathway to promote vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and collagen type XVII (COL17) expression. A 12-week clinical trial demonstrated that CPE significantly reduced hair loss and increased local hair density compared to placebo, with no adverse effects. These findings support the potential of CPE as a safe and effective natural alternative for hair loss prevention. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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19 pages, 2582 KB  
Article
Personalized Dermato-Cosmetology: A Case Study on Biometric Skin Improvements After 28 Days of Bespoke Cosmetic
by Magdalena Bîrsan, Ana-Caterina Cristofor, Alin-Viorel Focșa, Cătălin-Dragoș Ghica, Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu, Carmen-Valerica Ripa, Robert-Alexandru Vlad, Paula Antonoaea, Cezara Pintea, Andrada Pintea, Nicoleta Todoran, Emőke-Margit Rédai, Amalia-Adina Cojocariu and Adriana Ciurba
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 27; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010027 - 26 Jan 2026
Viewed by 177
Abstract
Objective: This study aimed to design and clinically evaluate a bespoke cosmetic formulation tailored to individual skin characteristics and user preferences, focusing on hydration and barrier recovery in mature, therapy-affected skin. In addition, this study aimed to explore the feasibility and short-term outcomes [...] Read more.
Objective: This study aimed to design and clinically evaluate a bespoke cosmetic formulation tailored to individual skin characteristics and user preferences, focusing on hydration and barrier recovery in mature, therapy-affected skin. In addition, this study aimed to explore the feasibility and short-term outcomes of a structured, biometry-driven personalization approach applied within a single-subject case study design. Materials and Methods: A personalized dermato-cosmetic formulation incorporating melatonin, astaxanthin, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, allantoin, yarrow oil (Achillea millefolium), lecithin, cholesterol, and arginine was developed based on objective biophysical assessment of the skin. A clinical case evaluation was conducted in a male subject over 55 years of age (Fitzpatrick phototype III) presenting persistent xerosis and dehydration following completed oncologic therapy. Quantitative skin biometry was performed at baseline and after 28 days of daily application, assessing hydration at six anatomical sites, sebum secretion, pigmentation and erythema indices, elasticity, and stratum corneum turnover and scaling. Results: After 28 days, sebum secretion increased by more than 100%, indicating partial restoration of the lipid barrier. Hyperpigmented areas decreased from 7.2% to 2.3%, while skin elasticity improved from 25% to 44%. A reduction of 8% in the erythema index suggested decreased vascular reactivity. Hydration levels improved consistently across all evaluated sites, and epidermal renewal was enhanced, as evidenced by reduced scaling and smoother skin surface. The melanin index remained stable throughout the study period. Conclusions: This pilot evaluation shows that bespoke cosmetic formulations, customized to individual skin biometry and preferences, can yield measurable improvements in hydration, barrier repair, elasticity, pigmentation uniformity, and epidermal renewal within 28 days, even in skin compromised by previous oncologic therapy. Given the single-subject nature of this pilot evaluation, these findings cannot be generalized to broader populations but rather highlight the importance of personalization and objective skin assessment in guiding individualized dermato-cosmetic formulation strategies. Personalized dermato-cosmetology using objective biophysical assessment may be a promising future strategy for effective, consumer-centered skincare. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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16 pages, 2029 KB  
Article
Pycnogenol® Mitigates Oxidative Stress and Improves Skin Defenses Against Environmental Pollutants: An Ex-Vivo Human Skin Explant Study
by Fabrice Avaltroni, Carolina Burki, Franziska Weichmann, Giuseppe Percoco, Laurent Peno-Mazzarino and Elian Lati
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 26; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010026 - 23 Jan 2026
Viewed by 291
Abstract
Oxidative stress is a major factor in skin aging and various skin pathologies. Environmental pollutants exacerbate this stress by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), disrupting the skin’s redox balance. Pycnogenol®, a French maritime pine bark, extract is standardized to contain 70 [...] Read more.
Oxidative stress is a major factor in skin aging and various skin pathologies. Environmental pollutants exacerbate this stress by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), disrupting the skin’s redox balance. Pycnogenol®, a French maritime pine bark, extract is standardized to contain 70 ± 5% procyanidins and known to mitigate oxidative damage and inflammation. This study aims to evaluate the potential antipollution and antioxidant effects of Pycnogenol® on skin. Ex vivo human skin explants were treated with varying concentrations of Pycnogenol® (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) and then exposed to a mixture of pollutants. The expression of stress markers Nrf2 (Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-Related Factor 2) and AHR (Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor) were evaluated using immunostaining. Lipid peroxidation levels were measured by quantifying malondialdehyde (MDA) concentrations. The extract significantly decreased Nrf2 expression by 40% (p = 0.003) and 23% (p = 0.048) with a dose of 2% and 1%, respectively. After pollutant exposure, Pycnogenol® (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) reduced Nrf2 over-expression in a dose–response manner by 29% (p = 0.03), 58% (p = 0.004) and 64% (p = 0.002) respectively. Pycnogenol® at 0.5%, 1%, and 2% significantly reduced AHR over-expression by 61% (p < 0.0001), 76% (p < 0.0001) and 85% (p < 0.0001), respectively. Pycnogenol® (1%, and 2%) decreased MDA levels following pollutant exposure by 17% (p = 0.06) and 25% (p = 0.01) respectively. In a dose-dependent manner, Pycnogenol® exhibited a strong protective effect against pollution, significantly reducing pollutant-induced basal oxidative stress (MDA) and over-expression of Nrf2 and AHR, key factors in oxidative stress and detoxification. Pycnogenol® also increased AHR expression in the absence of pollutants, which may reflect an adaptive cellular response. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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23 pages, 1077 KB  
Review
Rheology, Texture Analysis and Tribology for Sensory Prediction and Sustainable Cosmetic Design
by Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini and Alessandra Semenzato
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 25; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010025 - 22 Jan 2026
Viewed by 311
Abstract
The cosmetic industry is undergoing a deep transformation driven by rapid innovation, evolving consumer expectations, and increasing demands for sustainability. Formulators are required to design products that combine functional efficacy, stability, and appealing sensory properties while adopting environmentally responsible strategies. Traditional empirical and [...] Read more.
The cosmetic industry is undergoing a deep transformation driven by rapid innovation, evolving consumer expectations, and increasing demands for sustainability. Formulators are required to design products that combine functional efficacy, stability, and appealing sensory properties while adopting environmentally responsible strategies. Traditional empirical and sensory-based approaches, though valuable, are often limited by high costs, time, subjectivity and lack of reproducibility. In this context, instrumental techniques provide an objective and predictive means to optimize product performance. Rheology, texture analysis, and tribology offer complementary insights into the structure, mechanical behavior, and interfacial phenomena of cosmetic formulations, all of which are closely linked to application behavior and sensory perception. Their integration enables a quantitative correlation between formulation composition, process conditions, and tactile performance. This review critically examines recent advances in the integrated use of rheology, texture analysis and tribology in cosmetic science, highlighting their role in sensory prediction, stability assessment, scale-up and eco-design. Together, these instrumental approaches support a more data-driven and innovation-oriented formulation paradigm, enabling database development and predictive modeling. Future research should prioritize database expansion, in vivo validation and machine learning integration to further improve sensory prediction and accelerate the design of advanced cosmetic formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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20 pages, 3489 KB  
Article
Development of a Novel Peptide-Caffeic Acid Conjugate with Enhanced Anti-Photoaging Properties: Efficacy, Transdermal Permeation, and Stability
by Lijuan Liu, Lu Zhang, Zijian Liu, Chelsea Tan, Eric Lam, Matthew C. Ehrman, Choon-Peng Chng, Shikhar Gupta, Changjin Huang, Yanrong Chen and Wenfeng Ding
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 24; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010024 - 21 Jan 2026
Viewed by 211
Abstract
Caffeoyl hexapeptide-9 (CH-9) is a novel cosmetic peptide designed by conjugating hexapeptide-9 (H-9), a known collagen-mimetic peptide with established skin anti-aging activity, with caffeic acid (CA) via an amide bond, leveraging peptide-drug conjugate (PDC) design principles. In ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated cellular and skin models, [...] Read more.
Caffeoyl hexapeptide-9 (CH-9) is a novel cosmetic peptide designed by conjugating hexapeptide-9 (H-9), a known collagen-mimetic peptide with established skin anti-aging activity, with caffeic acid (CA) via an amide bond, leveraging peptide-drug conjugate (PDC) design principles. In ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated cellular and skin models, CH-9 outperformed H-9 in preserving cell viability, restoring collagen types I, III, and IV, and suppressing interleukin-6 and -8 secretion. Additionally, its direct antioxidant activity, absent in H-9, was demonstrated in vitro by scavenging of hydroxyl and peroxyl radicals. Molecular docking indicated CH-9 interacted with the catalytic domain of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP2), a key enzyme in collagen degradation during photoaging, suggesting a potential inhibition of its activity. Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations revealed an improved insertion of CH-9 into a stratum corneum (SC) lipid bilayer compared to H-9, consistent with enhanced skin permeation in vivo. Moreover, CH-9 exhibited improved aqueous and cosmetic serum stability over CA. In a 28-day clinical study, topical application of CH-9 significantly improved skin elasticity and firmness compared to H-9. This work demonstrates that the PDC-based conjugate CH-9 combines enhanced anti-photoaging efficacy with improved transdermal permeation and stability, highlighting a promising strategy for the development of advanced cosmetic ingredients. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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20 pages, 1524 KB  
Article
Phytocosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsions with Plant Oils: Physicochemical, Rheological and Photoprotective Evaluation
by Nebojša Pavlović, Katarina Žabić, Dragana Zaklan, Jovana Milutinov, Dejan Ćirin and Veljko Krstonošić
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 23; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010023 - 18 Jan 2026
Viewed by 237
Abstract
Plant oils are increasingly explored as sustainable functional ingredients in topical emulsions due to their emollient properties and reported photoprotective potential. This study aimed to formulate physically stable W/O emulsions containing selected plant oils (olive, avocado, sesame, flaxseed, and grape seed oils) at [...] Read more.
Plant oils are increasingly explored as sustainable functional ingredients in topical emulsions due to their emollient properties and reported photoprotective potential. This study aimed to formulate physically stable W/O emulsions containing selected plant oils (olive, avocado, sesame, flaxseed, and grape seed oils) at two concentrations (15% and 30%) and to evaluate their physicochemical, rheological, occlusive, and UV-protective properties. All formulations were confirmed as W/O systems with skin-compatible pH values and demonstrated shear-thinning, non-Newtonian flow with varying degrees of thixotropy. Increasing oil content from 15% to 30% reduced shear stress, consistency index, and viscoelastic moduli, indicating a softer internal structure. Moreover, the viscosities of the emulsions were not solely determined by the viscosities of the individual oils, suggesting significant interactions with the emulsifier system. High occlusion factors were demonstrated for all emulsions, with the highest values observed for 30% olive- and grape seed oil–based formulations. Spectrophotometric SPF assessment revealed measurable UV-protective activity only for emulsions containing 30% olive, avocado, or flaxseed oil (SPF > 1). All formulations exhibited satisfactory physical stability under mechanical and thermal stress. These findings demonstrate that plant oils can modulate the structure and performance of W/O emulsions and may serve as valuable supportive ingredients in the development of photoprotective cosmetic products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)
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23 pages, 3685 KB  
Article
Liquid Extract from the Bark of Magnolia officinalis Rejuvenates Skin Aging Through Mitochondrial ROS Reduction
by Yun Haeng Lee, Eun Young Jeong, Ye Hyang Kim, Sekyung Oh, Jee Hee Yoon, Ji Ho Park, Yoo Jin Lee, Duyeol Kim, Byeonghyeon So, Minseon Kim, So Yeon Kim, Hyung Wook Kwon, Youngjoo Byun, Song Seok Shin and Joon Tae Park
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010022 - 15 Jan 2026
Viewed by 365
Abstract
Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves [...] Read more.
Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves senescence-related phenotypes in vitro. However, its effects on human skin aging have not been investigated. In this study, we conducted both in vitro and clinical trials using an M. officinalis liquid extract, which can be directly applied to cosmetic formulations. The M. officinalis liquid extract restored mitochondrial function and reduced mitochondria-enriched ROS production. Furthermore, M. officinalis liquid extract activated mitophagy, which removes defective mitochondria, a major source of ROS production. In clinical trials, the M. officinalis liquid extract reduced the mean depth of neck wrinkles by 12.73% and the maximum depth by 17.44%. It also reduced the mean roughness (Ra), root mean square roughness (Rq), and maximum depth of roughness (Rmax) by 12.73%, 10.16%, and 10.81%, respectively. Furthermore, the key to the skin-improving effects of M. officinalis liquid extract lies in its ability to increase skin elasticity by 3.76% and brighten skin tone by 0.76%. In conclusion, this study identified a novel mechanism by which M. officinalis liquid extract rejuvenates skin aging. M. officinalis can be utilized as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin aging and therapeutic candidate for the development of anti-aging treatments. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)
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22 pages, 1324 KB  
Article
Dissolvable Face Mask with Liposomal Licorice Extract and Kojic Acid: An Innovative Approach for Skin Brightening
by Theerada Taesotikul, Supusson Pengnam, Thapakorn Charoenying, Boonnada Pamornpathomkul, Prin Chaksmithanont, Prasopchai Patrojanasophon and Chaiyakarn Pornpitchanarong
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 21; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010021 - 14 Jan 2026
Viewed by 281
Abstract
This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial [...] Read more.
This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial design to achieve suitable mechanical strength and rapid dissolution. The optimized mask, containing liposomal KA (1% w/v) and licochalcone A (0.025% w/v), was evaluated for antioxidant activity, ex vivo skin deposition, and short-term efficacy (Approval from the Institutional Review Board of Silpakorn University, Thailand; Ethics Approval No. REC 67.1001-146-7726/COA 68.0320-013 Date of registration: 20 March 2025). The optimized liposomes exhibited a mean particle size of 66–72 nm, entrapment efficiency above 65%, and a zeta potential of −12.5 mV (licochalcone A) and −1.67 mV (KA). Liposomal licochalcone A and KA showed potent antioxidant activity compared to their native forms. The optimized film dissolved within approximately 15 min on moist skin and showed favorable handling properties. Ex vivo studies revealed significantly higher skin deposition of both KA and licochalcone A from the liposomal mask compared with free and liposomal dispersions (p < 0.05). In a 7-day clinical evaluation, the mask significantly improved skin hydration and reduced melanin index (p < 0.05). No irritation or adverse reactions were observed, and user satisfaction was high. This liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach to enhancing skin brightness and hydration, supporting its potential as a sustainable cosmeceutical innovation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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14 pages, 1576 KB  
Article
Efficacy and Safety of a Cannabinoid-Based Topical Cream in Atopic-Prone Skin: A Prospective Clinical Study
by Maite Bilbatua, Ander Pino, Josune Torrecilla, Leire Arana-Pascual, Saioa Mateos, José María Alonso, María Moneo-Sánchez and Raúl Pérez
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010020 - 14 Jan 2026
Viewed by 296
Abstract
Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder. Revodiol Calming Cream® (RCC) is a novel dermocosmetic product containing cannabidiol (CBD) and Annona cherimola fruit extract, designed for the management of atopic-prone and sensitive skin. Objective: Clinically assess the efficacy and [...] Read more.
Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder. Revodiol Calming Cream® (RCC) is a novel dermocosmetic product containing cannabidiol (CBD) and Annona cherimola fruit extract, designed for the management of atopic-prone and sensitive skin. Objective: Clinically assess the efficacy and safety of RCC in the management of atopic-prone and/or sensitive skin. Materials and methods: A prospective study included 20 adults and 22 children with mild-to-moderate atopic-prone skin. RCC was applied daily, for 56 days. Clinical evaluation included the SCORAD index, pruritus and dryness scales; and a Visual Analog Scale (VAS). Biometric assessments (Mexameter®, Tewameter®, Visioscan®, Corneofix®) were performed. Subjective satisfaction and quality of life (DLQI) were also recorded. Results: RCC was well tolerated, with no significant adverse events. After 56 days, SCORAD scores decreased by 55% in adults and 60% in children. Pruritus and dryness were significantly reduced, and VAS scores indicated a 65% decrease in discomfort. Biometric assessments demonstrated improvements in erythema, skin barrier function, topography, and desquamation. Subjective satisfaction reached 75% in both populations, and DLQI improved by 23%. Conclusions: The synergistic combination of CBD, Annona cherimola extract, and natural humectants offers a safe and effective daily dermocosmetic care for both adults and children. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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31 pages, 1515 KB  
Review
Regenerative Strategies for Androgenetic Alopecia: Evidence, Mechanisms, and Translational Pathways
by Rimma Laufer Britva and Amos Gilhar
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 19; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010019 - 14 Jan 2026
Viewed by 744
Abstract
Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine [...] Read more.
Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine has been associated with a gradual shift toward approaches that aim to restore follicular function and architecture. Stem cell-derived conditioned media and exosomes have shown the ability to activate Wnt/β-catenin signaling, enhance angiogenesis, modulate inflammation, and promote dermal papilla cell survival, resulting in improved hair density and shaft thickness with favorable safety profiles. Autologous cell-based therapies, including adipose-derived stem cells and dermal sheath cup cells, have demonstrated the potential to rescue miniaturized follicles, although durability and standardization remain challenges. Adjunctive interventions such as microneedling and platelet-rich plasma (PRP) further augment follicular regeneration by inducing controlled micro-injury and releasing growth and neurotrophic factors. In parallel, machine learning-based diagnostic tools and deep hair phenotyping offer improved severity scoring, treatment monitoring, and personalized therapeutic planning, while robotic Follicular Unit Excision (FUE) platforms enhance surgical precision and graft preservation. Advances in tissue engineering and 3D follicle organoid culture suggest progress toward producing transplantable follicle units, though large-scale clinical translation is still in early development. Collectively, these emerging biological and technological strategies indicate movement beyond symptomatic management toward more targeted, multimodal approaches. Future progress will depend on standardized protocols, regulatory clarity, and long-term clinical trials to define which regenerative approaches can reliably achieve sustainable follicle renewal in routine cosmetic dermatology practice. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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15 pages, 6337 KB  
Article
Physicochemical Properties of Two Poly-L-Lactic Acid Injectable Implants: Potential Impact on Their Biological Properties
by Luiz Avelar, Alessandra Haddad, Sabrina G. Fabi, Michael Somenek, Katie Beleznay, Shino Bay Aguilera, Kathryn Taylor-Barnes, Cheri Mao, Åke Öhrlund, Björn Lundgren, Lian Leng, Edwige Nicodeme, Peter Morgan and Daniel Bråsäter
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 18; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010018 - 13 Jan 2026
Viewed by 325
Abstract
This study evaluated the thermal properties, crystallinity, particle size, morphology, and in vivo local inflammation and persistence of two poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) injectable implants, Sculptra® (PLLA-SCA) and GANA V® (PLLA-GA). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA underwent differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray powder diffraction [...] Read more.
This study evaluated the thermal properties, crystallinity, particle size, morphology, and in vivo local inflammation and persistence of two poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) injectable implants, Sculptra® (PLLA-SCA) and GANA V® (PLLA-GA). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA underwent differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray powder diffraction to evaluate their thermal properties and degree of crystallinity. X-ray powder diffraction spectra displayed a sharper, more intense peak for PLLA-GA than PLLA-SCA, with smaller peaks on either side of the main peak of PLLA-GA but not PLLA-SCA. Differential scanning calorimetry thermograms indicated three thermal events for both PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA. For PLLA-SCA, the first two events occurred between 65 °C and 90 °C, and the third event occurred at 165 °C. For PLLA-GA all three events occurred between 156 °C and 169 °C. Heating samples to 120 °C and cooling to room temperature prior to differential scanning calorimetry resulted in no thermal events being observed between 65–90 °C with either product, while three events were observed with PLLA-GA and one event with PLLA-SCA between 156 °C and 169 °C. The median volume distribution diameter was 46.4 µm for PLLA-SCA and 31.7 µm for PLLA-GA. Scanning electron microscopy showed PLLA-GA particles were irregular in shape, had no sharp edges and had a wrinkled and crimped surface, while PLLA-SCA particles displayed plate-like shapes and had smoother surfaces. In vivo inflammatory reactivity scores indicated a slight reaction for PLLA-SCA at all time points (3.7 ± 1.1, 6.1 ± 1.6, 5.7 ± 1.2 and 6.2 ± 1.2 at 2, 12, 26 and 52 weeks, respectively), while for PLLA-GA, a moderate reaction was observed at 12 and 26 weeks (2.9 ± 1.5, 10.1 ± 1.0, 9.4 ± 0.7 and 7.1 ± 1.3 at 2, 12, 26 and 52 weeks, respectively). PLLA-SCA and PLLA-GA had similar persistence scores at 2, 12 and 26 weeks, while at 52 weeks the score was markedly higher for PLLA-SCA versus PLLA-GA (1.9 ± 0.2 versus 0.7 ± 0.2). In conclusion, PLLA-SCA is more amorphous than PLLA-GA. The single melting point of PLLA-SCA contrasts with the broader spectrum of melting points for PLLA-GA suggests a more homogenous formulation of PLLA-SCA. This, and its less crystalline structure, result in the slower degradation rate and more sustained biological response of PLLA-SCA compared with PLLA-GA. The physiochemical properties of PLLAs affect the biological response in clinical practice and should be taken into consideration when selecting a PLLA treatment for aesthetic use. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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14 pages, 1619 KB  
Article
Synergistic Effects of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Lauryl Dimethylamine Oxide Blends on Foam Properties and Skin Irritation Reduction
by Elena Herrero, Cristina Calabuig, Francisco Ríos and Manuela Lechuga
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 17; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010017 - 13 Jan 2026
Viewed by 335
Abstract
Surfactants are commonly employed in cleaning, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical formulations due to their ability to lower surface tension and facilitate the formation of emulsions, foams, and dispersions. Recent research highlights the advantages of synergistic interactions between anionic and nonionic surfactants to improve overall [...] Read more.
Surfactants are commonly employed in cleaning, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical formulations due to their ability to lower surface tension and facilitate the formation of emulsions, foams, and dispersions. Recent research highlights the advantages of synergistic interactions between anionic and nonionic surfactants to improve overall performance. In this study, the physicochemical properties and performance of binary mixtures of the anionic surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and the amphoteric surfactant lauryl dimethyl amine oxide (LDAO) at varying ratios (100% SLS, 90:10, 80:20, 70:30, 60:40, and 50:50) were investigated. Key parameters analysed included critical micelle concentration (CMC), surface tension (γ), foam volume, and potential irritability, assessed via the Zein test. The results revealed a clear synergistic effect between SLS and LDAO: all mixtures showed reduced CMC and minimum surface tension compared to the individual surfactants, while exhibiting enhanced foam volume and stability. Regarding irritability, increasing LDAO content consistently led to decreased protein denaturation, indicating lower irritancy levels. Furthermore, the results obtained in the Zein test confirmed that mixtures induced less protein denaturation than the sum of their individual surfactant components, with formulations ranging from moderately to non-irritating. The results obtained indicate that the more stable mixed micelle systems (SLS + LDAO) might improve the performance of cleaning formulations (γ, CMC, foam) while reducing the irritability. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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16 pages, 2466 KB  
Article
Regenerative and Dermal Wound Healing Activities of Bioactive Octapeptide
by Shan Lakmal Edirisinghe, Chamilani Nikapitiya and Mahanama De Zoysa
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 16; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010016 - 13 Jan 2026
Viewed by 337
Abstract
Cosmeceutical peptides (CPs), which modulate various biological activities, including skin regeneration and wound healing, have emerged as promising agents in skincare. In this study, we investigated the regenerative and wound healing potential of a short peptide, CP-02 (sequence CDARSDAR), using human dermal fibroblast [...] Read more.
Cosmeceutical peptides (CPs), which modulate various biological activities, including skin regeneration and wound healing, have emerged as promising agents in skincare. In this study, we investigated the regenerative and wound healing potential of a short peptide, CP-02 (sequence CDARSDAR), using human dermal fibroblast cells (HDFs) in vitro and a zebrafish model in vivo. In HDFs, CP-02 treatment at concentrations of 50, 100, and 200 µg/mL significantly accelerated wound closure in a dose-dependent manner (p < 0.05) and upregulated the mRNA expression of CCND1, MYC, FGF2, EFG, and IL-8 at 12 h post-treatment. In amputated zebrafish larvae, exposure to CP-02 (5 µg/mL) for 72 h significantly increased fin regeneration, with a fin area of 3.5 mm2 and fin-fold length of 0.2 mm, compared with those in controls (2 mm2 and 0.07 mm, respectively). Intramuscular administration of CP-02 significantly improved the healing rates in wounded adult zebrafish to 58% and 76% on 12 and 16 days post wounding (dpw), respectively, compared with the vehicle (35% and 44%, respectively). Histological analysis (H&E staining) revealed reduced inflammatory cell infiltration, complete granulation, and re-epithelialization in the CP-02-treated tissues at 12 dpw. Furthermore, mRNA expression levels of tnf-α, il-1β, tgfb1, mmp9, mmp13, and timp2b were elevated in the CP-02 group at 4 dpw, whereas those of pro-fibrotic mediators, including acta2, ctgfb, cdh1, and col9a3 reduced in muscle tissue on 12 dpw. Collectively these findings demonstrate that CP-02 promotes effective, scar-reducing regeneration and wound healing, highlighting its strong potential as a therapeutic peptide for future skincare and cosmeceutical applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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16 pages, 4664 KB  
Article
Unveiling the Potential of Plant-Derived Exosome-like Extracellular Vesicles from Phalaenopsis aphrodite as Skin-Conditioning Ingredients in Cosmetic Applications
by Kai-An Chuang, Kuei-Chang Li, Hsin-Jan Yao, Pei-Yin Tsai, I Huang Lu, Chu Hung Lin, Hira Umbreen, Chi-Chien Lin and I-Hong Pan
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 15; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010015 - 12 Jan 2026
Viewed by 406
Abstract
Plant-derived exosome-like extracellular vesicles (PELVs) have recently emerged as novel bioactive materials. Although members of the Orchidaceae family have been reported to possess various biological activities and are widely used as cosmetic ingredients, no studies to date have investigated exosome-like extracellular vesicles derived [...] Read more.
Plant-derived exosome-like extracellular vesicles (PELVs) have recently emerged as novel bioactive materials. Although members of the Orchidaceae family have been reported to possess various biological activities and are widely used as cosmetic ingredients, no studies to date have investigated exosome-like extracellular vesicles derived from Phalaenopsis species. In the present study, we report for the first time a novel exosome-like extracellular vesicles preparation isolated from Phalaenopsis aphrodite (called Exorigin® OR) and characterize its physical and biological properties. The purified vesicles exhibited a spherical shape surrounded by a bilayered membrane with an average particle size of approximately 98 nm and expressed a CD9 marker. Fluorescent labeling with BODIPY TR indicated that Exorigin® OR can be internalized by cells. In in vitro assays, Exorigin® OR alleviated hydrogen peroxide-induced damage in keratinocytes and inhibited melanin production in melanocytes, possibly associated with the downregulation of Tyrp1 expression as shown by qPCR analysis. Moreover, reconstructed human epidermis and cornea-like epithelium models demonstrated that Exorigin® OR is non-irritant. Collectively, these findings suggest that Exorigin® OR represent a promising and safe bioactive ingredient for promoting skin health in cosmeceutical applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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16 pages, 2884 KB  
Article
Performance of Platycladus orientalis Leaves Yeast Fermented Solution on Human Dermal Papilla Cells
by Kuan Chang, Lingjuan Liu, Xianqi Chen, Jinhua Li, Timson Chen, Zhizhen Li, Ya Chen, Ling Ma and Jing Wang
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 14; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010014 - 12 Jan 2026
Viewed by 404
Abstract
Platycladus orientalis exhibits significant potential as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hair growth-promoting ingredient, while the low bioavailability of raw Platycladus orientalis leaves extracts limits their further application. In this study, yeast fermentation was employed to prepare Platycladus orientalis Leaves Yeast Fermented Solution (PYFS). [...] Read more.
Platycladus orientalis exhibits significant potential as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hair growth-promoting ingredient, while the low bioavailability of raw Platycladus orientalis leaves extracts limits their further application. In this study, yeast fermentation was employed to prepare Platycladus orientalis Leaves Yeast Fermented Solution (PYFS). Its performance on human dermal papilla cells (HDPCs) was systematically investigated. The optimal fermentation strain was screened using the methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium (MTT) assay, and Saccharomycopsis fibuligera CICC33226 (SF) was identified as the most suitable strain for fermentation. The effects of PYFS on the cell cycle distribution, growth factors, inflammatory factors of HDPCs, as well as its hair growth-promoting mechanism, were investigated. Experiments revealed that after fermentation, the proportion of cells in the G0/G1 phase decreased by 11.09%, while the proportion of cells in the S phase increased by 35.44%. Additionally, the level of the growth factor VEGF increased by 42.34%, while the level of the inflammatory factor TGF-β1 decreased by 23.81%. Moreover, the fermentation process correlates with altered mRNA expression of Wnt/β-catenin pathway-related genes by upregulating the mRNA expression levels of β-catenin, DVL1, and LEF1, and downregulating the mRNA expression level of DKK-1. Finally, non-targeted metabolomics technology was used to analyze the metabolite changes after fermentation. The most significant differential metabolites mainly include flavonoids, amino acids and their derivatives, and organic acids and their derivatives. This study utilized microbial fermentation technology to prepare the yeast fermentation solution, selected the optimal fermentation strain, and demonstrated that its fermentation product significantly promotes HDPC metabolic activity, supports hair follicle health by regulating the balance of growth factors, alters expression patterns of Wnt/β-catenin pathway-related genes, and substantially alters the metabolite composition of Platycladus orientalis leaves extract through fermentation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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16 pages, 606 KB  
Article
Identifying Unique Patient Groups in Melasma Using Clustering: A Retrospective Observational Study with Machine Learning Implications for Targeted Therapies
by Michael Paulse and Nomakhosi Mpofana
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 13; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010013 - 12 Jan 2026
Viewed by 281
Abstract
Melasma management is challenged by heterogeneity in patient presentation, particularly among individuals with darker skin tones. This study applied k-means clustering, an unsupervised machine learning algorithm that partitions data into k distinct clusters based on feature similarity, to identify patient subgroups that could [...] Read more.
Melasma management is challenged by heterogeneity in patient presentation, particularly among individuals with darker skin tones. This study applied k-means clustering, an unsupervised machine learning algorithm that partitions data into k distinct clusters based on feature similarity, to identify patient subgroups that could provide a hypothesis-generating framework for future precision strategies. We analysed clinical and demographic data from 150 South African women with melasma using k-means clustering. The optimal number of clusters was determined using the Elbow Method and Bayesian Information Criterion (BIC), with t-distributed stochastic neighbour embedding (t-SNE) visualization for assessment. The k-Means algorithm identified seven exploratory patient clusters explaining 52.6% of the data variability (R2 = 0.526), with model evaluation metrics including BIC = 951.630 indicating optimal model fit and a Silhouette Score of 0.200 suggesting limited separation between clusters consistent with overlapping clinical phenotypes, while the Calinski-Harabasz index of 26.422 confirmed relatively well-defined clusters that were characterized by distinct profiles including “The Moderately Sun Exposed Young Women”, “Elderly Women with Long-Term Melasma”, and “Younger Women with Severe Melasma”, with key differentiators being age distribution and menopausal status, melasma severity and duration patterns, sun exposure behaviours, and quality of life impact profiles that collectively define the unique clinical characteristics of each subgroup. This study demonstrates how machine learning can identify clinically relevant patient subgroups in melasma. Aligning interventions with the characteristics of specific clusters can potentially improve treatment efficacy. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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9 pages, 220 KB  
Commentary
Shaping the Future of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry—Trends in Obtaining Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources
by Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik and Agata Wawrzyńczak
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 12; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010012 - 9 Jan 2026
Viewed by 664
Abstract
The pursuit of fine chemicals from natural sources is advancing rapidly, driven by a growing demand for safe, sustainable, and high-performance ingredients in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Emerging extraction and biotransformation technologies, including enzyme-assisted procedures, precision fermentation, and green solvent systems, are enabling [...] Read more.
The pursuit of fine chemicals from natural sources is advancing rapidly, driven by a growing demand for safe, sustainable, and high-performance ingredients in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Emerging extraction and biotransformation technologies, including enzyme-assisted procedures, precision fermentation, and green solvent systems, are enabling the selective recovery of complex molecules with enhanced purity and stability. Simultaneously, AI-guided approaches to the discovery of bioactive compounds are accelerating the identification of multifunctional molecules exhibiting, for example, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or microbiome-modulating activities. These developments not only expand the chemical diversity accessible to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors but also promote the adoption of circular bioeconomy frameworks. Together, they define a new generation of natural fine chemicals with strong potential for targeted therapeutic and cosmetic applications. Accordingly, this commentary focuses on emerging trends and key technological advances in the use of renewable, natural sources for the production of fine chemicals relevant to cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It further highlights the critical roles of biotechnology, green chemistry, and digital innovation in shaping a more sustainable future for cosmetic and pharmaceutical chemistry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
18 pages, 777 KB  
Article
Ecofriendly Biosurfactant-Containing Solid Shampoo Formulation for Pets
by Ana Paula B. Cavalcanti, Gleice P. de Araújo, Fabíola Carolina G. de Almeida, Káren Gercyane O. Bezerra, Maria da Glória C. da Silva, Alessandra Sarubbo, Rita de Cássia F. Soares da Silva and Leonie A. Sarubbo
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 11; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010011 - 8 Jan 2026
Viewed by 473
Abstract
The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively [...] Read more.
The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively natural ingredients and a microbial biosurfactant produced by Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 as a surface-active component. The biosurfactant was combined with renewable anionic and nonionic surfactants, conditioning agents, natural oils and butters, and minimal water content to obtain a compact, solid formulation. The shampoo was produced through a controlled multi-phase process and subsequently characterized by physicochemical, microbiological, toxicological, and performance analyses. The formulation exhibited stable pH values suitable for pet skin, low moisture content, absence of free alkalinity, high solid content, and satisfactory foaming capacity. Cleaning efficiency tests demonstrated effective removal of artificial sebum from pet fur while preserving softness and shine. Microbiological assays confirmed the absence of bacterial and fungal contamination, and toxicological evaluations revealed no cytotoxicity and low eye irritation potential. In addition, the shampoo showed 100% biodegradability and maintained physicochemical and organoleptic stability over six months of storage. Overall, the results demonstrate that the developed solid shampoo represents an innovative, safe, and biodegradable alternative that reduces water consumption and plastic packaging, contributing to sustainable development in the pet cosmetics sector. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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25 pages, 2585 KB  
Article
Development of an Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) Loaded Elastosome Formulation for Enhanced Skin Penetration and Anti-Aging Effects
by Seul Gi Heo, Won Kyu Hong, Eun Mi Kim, Min Soo Kim, Si Young Song, Su Mi Choi, Jun Hyeong Park, Ji Hye Kim and Gwang Seong Choi
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 10; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010010 - 7 Jan 2026
Viewed by 437
Abstract
Achieving optimal skin penetration with bioactive cosmetic ingredients, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), presents ongoing challenges. This study introduces a novel elastosome-based EGF delivery system co-loading dexpanthenol, which achieves superior skin penetration and multifunctional cosmetic efficacy compared with a conventional liposome formulation. [...] Read more.
Achieving optimal skin penetration with bioactive cosmetic ingredients, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), presents ongoing challenges. This study introduces a novel elastosome-based EGF delivery system co-loading dexpanthenol, which achieves superior skin penetration and multifunctional cosmetic efficacy compared with a conventional liposome formulation. The EGF FLEXIR-SOME formulation was characterized to determine its physicochemical properties measured for comparison against a conventional liposome control. Efficacy and safety were confirmed through in vitro and in vivo evaluations, including clinical trials of the formulation and primary skin irritation tests. The formulated EGF FLEXIR-SOME particles exhibited an average diameter of 124.8 nm and a zeta potential of −57.53 mV, demonstrating enhanced stability and skin penetration relative to the control. The results of clinical trials confirmed significant efficacy in anti-aging, moisture, skin barrier improvement, and hyperpigmentation reduction. Additionally, primary skin irritation tests classified the product as a non-irritant. In conclusion, an elastosome-based EGF formulation significantly enhances skin penetration and bioavailability. The formulation effectively improves skin elasticity, hydration, and barrier function while simultaneously reducing visible signs of aging and pigmentation. This study successfully developed an innovative formulation utilizing elastosome technology, maximizing the transdermal efficiency and stability of EGF, thereby offering a novel strategy for functional cosmeceutical development. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)
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14 pages, 2480 KB  
Article
Biological Activities of the Extract and Hitorins A and B from Chloranthus quadrifolius in Human Adipose-Derived Mesenchymal Stem Cells
by Kento Kunihiro, Sang-Yong Kim, Katsura Sano and Mareshige Kojoma
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 9; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010009 - 6 Jan 2026
Viewed by 324
Abstract
Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AD-MSCs) secrete various growth factors that activate skin cells. This study investigated the effects of crude extracts and isolated compounds, hitorin A and hitorin B, from Chloranthus quadrifolius on AD-MSCs. The crude extract and hitorins A and B obtained [...] Read more.
Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AD-MSCs) secrete various growth factors that activate skin cells. This study investigated the effects of crude extracts and isolated compounds, hitorin A and hitorin B, from Chloranthus quadrifolius on AD-MSCs. The crude extract and hitorins A and B obtained from C. quadrifolius promoted cell proliferation. Furthermore, they suppressed the accumulation of excessive lipid droplets and reduced the expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ, CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein alpha, and adiponectin. The extract and hitorins A and B increased the expression of stemness marker genes, including SRY-box transcription factor 2, homeobox protein NANOG, and octamer-binding transcription factor 4. For anti-aging effects, the crude extract and hitorins A and B significantly inhibited senescence-associated-β-galactosidase activity and the gene expression of p16, p21, and p53 under hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress. Additionally, they suppressed the production of intracellular reactive oxygen species and the gene expression of interleukin-6 and interleukin-8. These findings indicate that crude extracts and hitorins A and B derived from C. quadrifolius suppress excessive adipogenic differentiation, promote cell proliferation while enhancing stem cell characteristics, and reduce oxidative stress-induced cellular aging through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. These results suggest that they are effective cosmetic ingredients for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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17 pages, 1104 KB  
Review
Multi-Target Strategies for Enhancing Ceramide Production: A Review of Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Science
by Jihye Maeng, Sekyoo Jeong, Hyunjung Kim and Gaewon Nam
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 8; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010008 - 1 Jan 2026
Viewed by 569
Abstract
Ceramides are central to stratum corneum barrier organization and hydration. Beyond topical replenishment, ceramide-stimulating strategies increasingly aim to enhance endogenous ceramide biosynthesis, processing, and homeostatic remodeling in coordination with keratinocyte differentiation. In this review, we summarize the three major metabolic routes that shape [...] Read more.
Ceramides are central to stratum corneum barrier organization and hydration. Beyond topical replenishment, ceramide-stimulating strategies increasingly aim to enhance endogenous ceramide biosynthesis, processing, and homeostatic remodeling in coordination with keratinocyte differentiation. In this review, we summarize the three major metabolic routes that shape epidermal ceramide output—de novo synthesis, salvage, and sphingomyelin hydrolysis—and organize representative bioactive ingredients by their primary molecular targets rather than by origin. Specifically, we map ingredients to tractable regulatory nodes, including transcriptional “liposensors” (PPAR/LXR), the induction of biosynthetic/elongation and processing enzymes (e.g., SPT, CerS3, ELOVL4), the provision of structural substrates and precursors (e.g., linoleate-rich lipids and glycosylceramides), salvage-pathway sphingoid bases that can reshape ceramide subclass output, and metabolic sensing/stress-response pathways centered on AMPK–mTOR–SIRT1/autophagy. Across these mechanisms, agents spanning botanical and fermented extracts, vitamins, sphingoid intermediates, lipid precursors, and pathway modulators (including autophagy-focused probes) have been reported to increase ceramide abundance and, in some contexts, favor barrier-relevant ultra-long-chain species and ω-O-acylceramides that support lamellar organization and the corneocyte lipid envelope. Translational and clinical studies in dry, sensitive, and aged skin generally associate such interventions with improved barrier function and reduced dryness. Aligning ingredient selection with defined biosynthetic and processing checkpoints—and verifying outcomes with lipidomics alongside clinical endpoints—may accelerate the development of evidence-based, ceramide-stimulating cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)
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26 pages, 1734 KB  
Review
Systems for Mitochondria-Protective Cosmetic Actives: Opportunities in Post-Oncologic Skin Regeneration
by Agata Burzyńska, Agata Wawrzyńczak and Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 7; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010007 - 29 Dec 2025
Viewed by 727
Abstract
Post-oncologic skin is subject to multiple structural and functional impairments following chemotherapy and radiotherapy, including delayed epidermal turnover, compromised barrier integrity, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These changes can lead to persistent dryness, heightened reactivity, impaired regeneration, and reduced patient quality of life. In this [...] Read more.
Post-oncologic skin is subject to multiple structural and functional impairments following chemotherapy and radiotherapy, including delayed epidermal turnover, compromised barrier integrity, and mitochondrial dysfunction. These changes can lead to persistent dryness, heightened reactivity, impaired regeneration, and reduced patient quality of life. In this context, topical dermocosmetic strategies are essential not only for improving comfort and hydration, but also for supporting key cellular pathways involved in mitochondrial protection and oxidative stress reduction. Despite the promise of natural antioxidant actives, their cutaneous efficacy is often limited by poor stability, low bioavailability, and insufficient penetration of the stratum corneum. The use of nanocarriers promotes deeper skin penetration, protects oxidation-prone antioxidant compounds, and enables a controlled and prolonged release profile. This review summarizes the current evidence (2020–2025) on skin delivery systems designed to enhance the efficacy, stability, and skin penetration of antioxidants. Knowledge gaps and future directions are outlined, highlighting how rationally engineered delivery systems for mitochondria-targeted actives could contribute to safer, more effective strategies for post-oncologic skin regeneration. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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22 pages, 1336 KB  
Article
Concentration-Dependent Rheological and Sensory Effects of Walnut Leaf Extract in Cosmetic Emulsion Creams
by Miljan Adamovic, Ana Adamovic, Ana Barjaktarevic, Marina Kostic, Olivera Kostic, Danijela Pecarski, Marijana Andjic, Jovana Dimitrijevic, Jelena Zivkovic and Marina Tomovic
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 6; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010006 - 26 Dec 2025
Viewed by 685
Abstract
Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not [...] Read more.
Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not been systematically characterized. This study aimed to investigate the effect of increasing walnut leaf extract concentration on the rheological profile, mechanical integrity during application, and sensory performance of oil-in-water creams. Methods: Four emulsion formulations (F1–F4) containing 0%, 1%, 3%, and 5% walnut leaf extract were prepared using Olivem 1000 and Olivem 300 as emulsifiers. Rheological measurements included amplitude sweep, flow curve, frequency sweep, and thixotropy tests to assess viscoelasticity, flow behavior, and recovery. A sensory evaluation was conducted by trained panelists to correlate rheological parameters with perceived product attributes. Results: All formulations exhibited pseudoplastic, shear-thinning behavior in well-structured cosmetic emulsions during application. The addition of walnut extract significantly modified rheological responses: at 1% concentration, an increase in storage modulus (G′) and shear-thinning ratio (η0/η∞) indicated structural reinforcement and improved spreadability, whereas higher concentrations (3–5%) led to structural softening and faster thixotropic recovery. The frequency sweep revealed a concentration-dependent shift from elastic- to viscous-dominant behavior. Sensory analysis confirmed these trends, with higher extract levels reducing stickiness and greasiness while enhancing absorption. Conclusions: Walnut leaf extract shows a concentration-dependent influence on the rheological behavior of the emulsions, strengthening the network structure at low levels while promoting softening and faster structural recovery at higher concentrations. The strong correlation between rheological and sensory parameters underscores the potential of walnut extract as a multifunctional ingredient for designing well-structured, non-greasy, and consumer-preferred cosmetic creams. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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11 pages, 681 KB  
Article
Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetic Dermatology with Regard to Laser Treatments: A Comparative Analysis of AI and Dermatologists’ Decision-Making
by Alexandra Junge, Ali Mokhtari, Simone Cazzaniga, Ashraf Badawi, Flurin Brand, Simone Böll, Laurence Feldmeyer, Cindy Franklin, Hans-Joachim Laubach, Mathias Lehmann, Zora Martignoni, Sammy Murday, Dominik Obrist, Antonia Reimer-Taschenbrecker, Basil Signer, Roberta Vasconcelos-Berg, Charlotte Vogel, Nikhil Yawalkar, Kristine Heidemeyer and Seyed Morteza Seyed Jafari
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 5; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010005 - 26 Dec 2025
Viewed by 1286
Abstract
Introduction: Artificial intelligence (AI) has developed into an increasingly important tool in dermatology. While new technologies integrated within laser devices are emerging, there is a lack of data on the applicability of publicly available AI models. Methods: The prospective study used an online [...] Read more.
Introduction: Artificial intelligence (AI) has developed into an increasingly important tool in dermatology. While new technologies integrated within laser devices are emerging, there is a lack of data on the applicability of publicly available AI models. Methods: The prospective study used an online questionnaire where participants evaluated diagnosis and treatment for 25 dermatological cases shown as pictures. The same questions were given to AI models: ChatGPT-4o, Claude Sonnet 4, Gemini 2.5 Flash, and Grok-3. Results: Dermatologists outperformed AI in diagnostic accuracy (suspected primary diagnosis-SD 75.6%) in pooled dermatologists vs. pooled AI (SD 57.0%), with laser specialists achieving the highest accuracy (SD 82.0%) and residents the lowest (SD 66.0%). There was a high heterogeneity across AI models. Gemini approached dermatologist performance (SD 72.0%), while Claude showed a low accuracy (SD 40.0%). While AI models reached near 100% accuracy in some classic/common diagnoses (e.g., acne, rosacea, spider angioma, infantile hemangioma), their accuracy dropped to near 0% on rare or context-dependent cases (e.g., blue rubber bleb nevus syndrome, angiosarcoma, hirsutism, cutaneous siderosis). Inter-rater agreement was high among laser experts in terms of diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice. Agreement between residents and AI models was highest for diagnostic accuracy and treatment choice, while it was lowest between experts and AI models. Conclusions: Before AI-based tools can be integrated into daily practice, particularly regarding diagnosis and appropriate laser treatment recommendations, specific supervised medical training of the AI model is necessary, as open-source platforms currently lack the ability to contextualize presented data. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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17 pages, 1585 KB  
Article
Systemic Lipid Dysregulation in Low-Hydration Skin: A Multi-Dimensional Analysis
by Yumei Fan, Zheng Wang and Peixue Ling
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 4; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010004 - 25 Dec 2025
Viewed by 677
Abstract
Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic [...] Read more.
Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic differences between individuals with high and low hydration levels. We enrolled 60 healthy Chinese women (aged 30–55), divided into a low-hydration (LH, n = 11) group and a high-hydration (HH, n = 19) group based on Corneometer measurements. An integrated methodology was employed, including confocal Raman spectroscopy, multiphoton laser tomography, biophysical instruments, and untargeted lipidomics. Our results demonstrated a positive correlation between skin hydration and SC thickness, ceramides, and lactate levels. However, no significant correlation was identified in relation to wrinkles, color, or elasticity. The lipidomic analysis revealed eighty-three significantly upregulated lipids (VIP > 1.0, p < 0.05) in LH skin, among which ten lipids, including nine ceramides, exhibited strong negative correlations with hydration (|r| > 0.8, p < 0.05). These lipids were predominantly associated with sphingolipid and triacylglycerol metabolic pathways. Together, our findings suggest that low-hydration skin is characterized by systemic lipidomic dysregulation, rather than a deficiency of individual lipids. These findings represent novel insights into the mechanisms underlying skin hydration and identify potential therapeutic targets for addressing skin dryness and aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)
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14 pages, 3032 KB  
Article
Protective and Restorative Effects of a Bio-Based Crosslinking Complex on Chemically Damaged Hair
by Flavio B. Camargo Junior, Alessandra M. Goshiyama, Gessica F. D. Oliveira, Marcos R. Rossan, Cleverson R. Princival, Edson Katekawa, Wagner Magalhães, Rafaela de Almeida Zito, Letícia Kakuda and Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 3; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010003 - 24 Dec 2025
Viewed by 816
Abstract
This study addresses the growing consumer demand for effective and sustainable hair care solutions by evaluating a novel bioactive crosslink repair complex designed to restore chemically damaged hair. The complex comprises itaconic acid, arginine, D-panthenol, and polysaccharides from linseed and chia, which work [...] Read more.
This study addresses the growing consumer demand for effective and sustainable hair care solutions by evaluating a novel bioactive crosslink repair complex designed to restore chemically damaged hair. The complex comprises itaconic acid, arginine, D-panthenol, and polysaccharides from linseed and chia, which work synergistically to promote fiber crosslinking, protein restructuring, and cuticle barrier restoration. The complex was incorporated into two formulations: a bleaching mixture as a protective agent and a leave-in conditioner as a repair treatment for chemically damaged hair. The protective efficacy was assessed through tensile strength measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, combability tests, shine evaluation, and scanning electron microscopy. The repair potential was evaluated using differential scanning calorimetry and tensile strength analysis. Results demonstrated that incorporating the complex into the bleaching mixture significantly enhanced break stress, denaturation enthalpy, shine, and combability, while maintaining improved cuticle alignment. The hair repair evaluation showed that post-treatment application of the complex successfully restored hair tensile strength and denaturation. These findings confirm the dual functionality of Bioactive Crosslink Repair Complex as both a protective and reparative agent, highlighting synergistic mechanisms in preventing and reversing chemical damage to hair fibers. This bioactive approach offers a promising alternative for hair care formulations targeting chemically treated hair. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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2 pages, 138 KB  
Editorial
Skin Anti-Aging Strategies
by Remo Campiche
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 2; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010002 - 22 Dec 2025
Viewed by 881
Abstract
The pursuit of youthful, healthy skin remains one of the most compelling drivers in the cosmetics industry [...] Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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