Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery) / CiteScore - Q1 (Dermatology)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 18 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 6.6 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the second half of 2023).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.3 (2022)
Latest Articles
Efficacy and Safety of Monopolar Radiofrequency for Tightening the Skin of Aged Faces
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030071 - 03 May 2024
Abstract
Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this
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Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this therapy using various skin testing devices. Methods: Twenty women with aged faces participated in this study. After a single monopolar RF treatment, three blinded dermatologists who were not involved in the treatment evaluated its clinical efficacy and safety after 4, 12, and 24 weeks. Skin firmness, fine wrinkles, skin pores, and skin tone were also measured using an indentometer (Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) and a facial aging measurement device (Mark-Vu; PSI Plus, Suwon-si, Republic of Korea). Results: Skin laxity in the jowls and nasolabial folds showed significant improvement 12 weeks after the single monopolar RF treatment when evaluated by dermatologists, and this improvement lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Moreover, the participants reported improvement at 4 weeks compared to baseline which lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Skin firmness measured in the cheek increased 4 weeks after treatment and continued to improve during 24 weeks of follow-up (p < 0.01). Although there was a gradual increase in improvement in skin pores, fine wrinkles, and skin tones, there were no statistical differences compared to the baseline. No patients experienced pain during the treatment, and no burns, skin breakdown, or scarring occurred after treatment. Conclusions: A single monopolar RF treatment is effective for females with aged face. A significant improvement in the jowls and nasolabial folds and facial skin firmness was observed between the 4- and 24-week follow-ups without adverse effects.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Advancing Lip Augmentation: State-of-the-Art 2D and 3D Analysis for Assessing Volume Enhancement and Lip Line Redefinition
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Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Lucia Ricci, Eleonora Vardaro, Teresa Di Serio, Elena Morelli and Sonia Laneri
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 70; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030070 - 03 May 2024
Abstract
Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume
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Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume and distinct vermilion borders. Despite the proliferation of lip augmentation techniques, there remains a dearth of comprehensive investigations into their precise effects on the three-dimensional structural integrity of the lips. This research endeavors to address this gap by employing stereophotogrammetry as a quantitative tool to scrutinize lip augmentation outcomes and to appraise the efficacy of lip plumpers. The study methodology involves a comparative analysis of lip dimensions among subjects treated with a commercial lip plumper using multi-spectral imaging for lip dimension assessment, coupled with markerless tracking technology and 3D interpolating surface methodology to analyze lip volume and shape. Additionally, the study evaluated lip youth state, including moisture level, softness, firmness, and tissue density. The demand for lip augmentation procedures is driven by perceived advantages such as quick recovery and minimal risk. Therefore, it is crucial to substantiate their efficacy with robust findings. The investigation suggests that both 3D and 2D stereophotogrammetry techniques are reliable for evaluating lip size before and after augmentation, whether through cosmetic or aesthetic approaches. Overall, the study provides a comprehensive analysis of a lip treatment aimed at enhancing volume and redesigning lip lines. It demonstrates that stereophotogrammetry is effective for assessing 3D lip dimensions and their correlation with internal lip structure. This research could be particularly valuable for evaluating the efficacy and duration of various lip enhancement techniques, including dermal fillers, implants, and topical cosmetic formulations, offering quantitative and reproducible assessments over time.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Artichoke Leaf Extract Effectiveness on the Skin Aging Exposome: Efficacy and Safety Results of a Split-Face Study
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Gloria Roveda, Enza Cestone, Francesca De Gennaro, Andrea Poggi, Violetta Insolia, Vincenzo Zaccaria and Vincenzo Nobile
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030069 - 03 May 2024
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The skin is a barrier organ subjected to lifelong exposure to internal and external factors influencing both its biological response and appearance. A randomized split-face study was carried out on 22 adult female outdoor workers using an artichoke leaf extract (CynageTM).
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The skin is a barrier organ subjected to lifelong exposure to internal and external factors influencing both its biological response and appearance. A randomized split-face study was carried out on 22 adult female outdoor workers using an artichoke leaf extract (CynageTM). The product’s efficacy was measured before and after 28 days of use. The following skin parameters were measured: wrinkle depth, skin roughness, and radiance, to assess the product’s effect on the skin appearance; Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP), to assess the total antioxidant capacity; and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) levels, to assess the anti-inflammatory efficacy. These parameters were also integrated by the evaluation of the subjective perception of product efficacy. After 28 days of product use, the skin’s appearance improved as follows: wrinkle depth and skin roughness decreased by 5.2% and 7.0%, respectively, while the skin radiance increased by 19.0%. The total antioxidant capacity of the skin increased by 20.2%. The skin’s TNF-α levels decreased by 8.2%. The product efficacy was also perceived by the subjects participating in the study. The product was well tolerated. Our findings demonstrate the active role of the ingredient in decreasing the skin damage induced by the exposome.
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Open AccessArticle
Development of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Olive Extract and Spirulina sp.: Stability and Clinical Efficacy Studies
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Gabriela Maria D’Angelo Costa and Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 68; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030068 - 01 May 2024
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Cosmetic formulations with natural antioxidants can reduce the oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing olive extract (OE) and Spirulina sp. (SP).
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Cosmetic formulations with natural antioxidants can reduce the oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing olive extract (OE) and Spirulina sp. (SP). For this, rheological behavior, texture, and sensory properties were evaluated. In addition, 31 healthy women with an age of 39 to 60 years, with skin phototypes II and III, and the presence of signs of photoaging on the face were recruited and divided in Group 1 (vehicle formulation) and Group 2 (vehicle with active substances) for this clinical efficacy study. Both groups applied sunscreen daily during the day. The formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviors and good sensory properties. The clinical evaluation using instrumental measurements showed an increase in skin hydration, an improvement of the skin barrier, and morphological characteristics of the epidermis after 12 weeks of application of the formulations. There was a significant increase in the brightness of the stratum corneum, which suggested a film-forming effect. In addition, both groups had an improvement in the dermis echogenicity, due to the use of sunscreens. Finally, the proposed formulation was effective in protecting the skin and reducing skin changes related to photoaging.
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Open AccessEditorial
Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry
by
Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 67; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030067 - 30 Apr 2024
Abstract
There is no doubt that chemistry has provided countless products that have improved people’s lives in almost every aspect [...]
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)
Open AccessCorrection
Correction: Sritananuwat et al. Effectiveness and Safety of Boesenbergia rotunda Extract on 3T3-L1 Preadipocytes and Its Use in Capsaicin-Loaded Body-Firming Formulation: In Vitro Biological Study and In Vivo Human Study. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 24
by
Phaijit Sritananuwat, Tipada Samseethong, Kusuma Jitsaeng, Sureewan Duangjit, Praneet Opanasopit and Worranan Rangsimawong
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030066 - 25 Apr 2024
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In the original publication [...]
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Open AccessArticle
Stability and Retention of Nanoemulsion Formulations Incorporating Lavender Essential Oil
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Konstantina Flekka, Virginia D. Dimaki, Elena Mourelatou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis, Fotini N. Lamari and Sophia Hatziantoniou
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030065 - 23 Apr 2024
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Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential
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Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential skincare applications. The LEO carrier impact on skin hydration and barrier function was also evaluated. Conventional emulsions (CEs) and nanoemulsions (NEs) with (CELs and NELs, respectively) and without LEO incorporation were analyzed for physicochemical properties, stability, and release mechanisms. The droplet size distribution and ζ-potential remained consistent in both CE and CEL, showing the minimal influence of LEO on those parameters. NE and NEL exhibited enhanced stability and higher LEO retention compared to CE and CEL (37.38 mg/mL ± 0.48 mg/mL and 50.96 mg/mL ± 2.00 mg/mL, respectively, p < 0.05), suggesting NE as a superior carrier system for LEO delivery. NEL retained LEO over 60 days at 4 °C without a significant reduction while CEL showed a notable reduction of 94.93% ± 0.08%. Release kinetics analysis showed zero-order release kinetics of LEO from both CEL and NEL (R2: 0.973 and 0.952, respectively), revealing a diffusion-based mechanism, particularly evident in NE formulations, supporting the controlled and sustained release of LEO constituents. NEL also promoted quicker skin barrier repair and enhanced skin hydration, sustaining effects for up to 120 min post application, surpassing CEL’s performance. These findings contribute to understanding the carrier system effects on LEO delivery and underscore NE as a promising vehicle for skincare applications. Further research should explore underlying mechanisms and conduct long-term safety and efficacy studies to fully exploit the therapeutic potential of NE in dermatological applications.
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Open AccessArticle
Impact of Hair Damage on the Penetration Profile of Coconut, Avocado, and Argan Oils into Caucasian Hair Fibers
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Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Gustavo Carlos da Silva, Airton Abrahao Martin, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020064 - 21 Apr 2024
Abstract
The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers,
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The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers, given the associated benefits for hair fibers. While coconut oil is highly popular in the hair care market and extensively studied for its ability to diffuse through the hair cortex, the effects of avocado and argan oil on the internal structure of hair and their potential benefits remain underexplored. Tensile and fatigue tests, as well as Raman spectroscopy, were carried out to investigate the interaction of these three oils with virgin and bleached Caucasian hair. The oils were applied in sufficient amounts directly to hair tresses and maintained for 24 h at 25 °C. Our results show that the three oils successfully diffused and interacted with the cortical region of the hairs. Their impact on hair mechanical properties depends on the level of damage and humidity conditions. In virgin hair, coconut and avocado oil reinforce the hydrophobic barrier of the cellular membrane complex, preventing water from causing intense perturbation of the mechanical properties, leading to increased stiffness and break stress. Meanwhile, due to the high degree of unsaturation of its fatty acid chains, argan oil increases water absorption, resulting in losses in hair resistance. When bleached, the hydrophilicity of the hair fiber increases, determining more affinity for argan oil. Consequently, the affinity with water is also elevated, causing increased fragility to mechanical stress. The analyzed vegetable oils are not always beneficial for hair care. Their specific chemical characteristics and hair conditions will influence the final results and should be taken into consideration in hair care product development.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)
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Open AccessArticle
Preparation and Characterization of a Topical Delivery System for Nanoemulsions Using a Composite Film of Pectin and Tapioca
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Luciana Agostinho and Pedro Rocha-Filho
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020063 - 18 Apr 2024
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Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients
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Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients and the skin. This can be achieved through various mechanisms, two of which are occlusion and extended contact of the formulation with the skin. Cosmetic masks can be used to improve the skin’s hydration by creating a barrier that minimizes transepidermal water loss while acting as a repository of the active ingredient, increasing the skin’s absorption of the formulation’s active ingredients. In order to diminish the environmental impact, natural-polymeric-material masks are being used, as an alternative to synthetic materials, for its biocompatibility and biodegradability. In this work pectin and tapioca starch were used to develop a polymeric mask to deliver a rice bran oil nanoemulsion and study some characteristics of the final product. The results show that the association of pectin and tapioca starch can be used to produce a film that can be molded and shows occlusive effects, besides being flexible and compatible with the skin.
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Open AccessArticle
Potential Benefits of a Cosmetic Ingredient Combining Thermal Spring Water and Diatom Algae Extract
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Maria Lourdes Mourelle, Jordi Segura de Yebra, Jordi Ayats, Maria Vitale and Ana López Sánchez
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020062 - 17 Apr 2024
Abstract
The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here
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The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here describe the development of a new ingredient consisting of a mixture of thermal water and a diatom algae extract. First, we characterized a thermal spring water (La Solia, LS-TSW). Attending to its chemical composition, LS-TSW displayed an exclusive combination of different inorganic elements, with interesting potential properties when compared with other commercial spring waters. Then, LS-TSW hydrobiome was studied, and after finding specimens of Phaeodactylum-like sp., we proposed potentiating LS-TSW benefits with its combination with an oil extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum (PtOE). Finally, we assessed the potential of the mixture during pro-inflammatory stimulation, in the first instance using an immune cell model, and then in an in vitro system mimicking keratinocytes under skin irritation. In the last-mentioned model, the ingredient of interest effectively attenuated the induced levels of different pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, IL-1, TNFα, NF-κB, and CCL1), at the level of gene expression. Thus, our results highlight the potential benefits of this combination in the context of skin irritation, opening roads for its use in new skincare regimens, and addressing an important dermatological concern.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessCommunication
Blending Hyaluronic Acid and Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Injectable Facial Dermal Fillers: A Clinical and Ultrasonography Assessment
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Bruna Bravo, Raquel Carvalho, Leonardo Bravo, Laís Penedo and Mariana Elias
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020061 - 17 Apr 2024
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Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic
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Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic improvement of facial skin laxity using a blending technique that admixes HA and CaHA. Fifteen regular patients, including three men, between 25 and 71 years of age were reported. The participants were subjects who came regularly to the dermatologic office seeking a lifting effect without surgery. They were submitted to injection of an admixture of HA and CaHA and followed for 180 days. The clinical assessment consisted of photographic evaluation by two blind investigators, and a consensual subjective evaluation was performed by the physicians (PGAIS) using the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale. Dermal thickness was analyzed in jaw areas using high-frequency ultrasound. Subjects completed a satisfaction questionnaire with responses scored according to the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) to evaluate patient satisfaction. After 180 days of follow-up, clinical assessments by blinded physicians found that all patients improved. All the participants were highly satisfied with the results and reported exceptional improvement. Dermal thickness increased by 9.4% (8.2–10.8%), 14.0% (12.2–15.9%), and 18.8% (16.2–21.9%) at D90, D120, and D180, respectively, by ultrasonography. In conclusion, an injection technique using an admixture of CaHA and HA fillers was well tolerated, offering high satisfaction and long-lasting progressive benefits. The authors believe that this procedure optimizes the treatment time and results because HA promotes early volume restoration and CaHA stimulates long-term dermal remodeling through the synthesis of collagen and elastin.
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Open AccessArticle
Eco-Designing Cosmetic Products while Preserving the Sensorial-Application Properties: An Instrumental Approach toward Sustainable Formulations
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Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini, Mario Piatto, Silvia Lucchetti, Stefano Francescato, Laura Busata, Giovanni Baratto and Alessandra Semenzato
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020060 - 15 Apr 2024
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Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable
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Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Formulation and Characterization of Non-Toxic, Antimicrobial, and Alcohol-Free Hand Sanitizer Nanoemulgel Based on Lemon Peel Extract
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Faten Mohamed Ibrahim, Eman Samy Shalaby, Mohamed Azab El-Liethy, Sherif Abd-Elmaksoud, Reda Sayed Mohammed, Said I. Shalaby, Cristina V. Rodrigues, Manuela Pintado and El Sayed El Habbasha
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020059 - 12 Apr 2024
Abstract
Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan
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Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan gum as a gelling agent and stabilizer, were developed and characterized as a novel alternative. All formulations showed non-Newtonian shear-thinning flow behavior, particle size values below 200 nm, and increasing zeta potential with higher xanthan gum concentrations. All nanoemulgel formulations exhibited greater in vitro phenolic compound release than free LE. LN-F2 (1.0% LE, 20.0% mineral oil, 20.0% Span 80, 4.0% Cremophor RH 40, 4.0% PEG 400, 0.5% xanthan gum, 50.5% dH2O) was selected as the optimal formulation due to improved characteristics. LE and LN-F2 potential cytotoxicity was assessed on MA-104, showing no significant cellular morphological alterations up to 10 mg/mL for both samples. LN-F2 showed in vitro antimicrobial activity against E. coli, S. Typhimurium, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, L. monocytogenes, and C. albicans, as well as antiviral activity against phiX 174, but no effect against rotavirus (SA-11). In vivo, LN-F2 presented a removal capacity of 83% to 100% for bacteria and 89% to 100% for fungi. These findings suggest that the formulated nanoemulgel holds potential as a safe and effective antiseptic, providing a viable alternative to commercial alcohol-based formulations.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Development of a Ready-to-Use Oxyresveratrol-Enriched Extract from Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. Using Greener Solvents and Deep Eutectic Solvents for a Whitening Agent
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Krittanon Saesue, Pornnapa Thanomrak, Wipawan Prompan, Warakhim Punan, Nantaka Khorana, Wasinee Juprasert, Tammanoon Rungsang, Pattravee Thong-on and Jukkarin Srivilai
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020058 - 05 Apr 2024
Abstract
Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical
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Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Traditionally, harsh solvents have been used to extract ORV from AL. This study aims to address this issue by introducing green technology with a ready-to-use extract for the enrichment of ORV extraction from AL using deep eutectic solvents (DESs). Thirty-three DESs were synthesized and characterized. The extraction efficiency of these DESs was evaluated by ORV content (g ORV/kg dried plant) and compared with the conventional solvents, analyzed by validated HPLC. Notably, two synthesized DESs, namely choline chloride/citric acid/water (2:1:3) (DES10) and choline chloride/xylose (1:1) (DES17), showed higher ORV content than the conventional solvents and were therefore selected for optimization of extraction conditions using Box–Behnken designs, considering three variable levels: time, temperature, and water as co-solvents. Interestingly, the biological activities of ORV-enriched extracts from DES10 and DES17 were evaluated, and the results showed that they were 74-fold and 252-fold more potent than kojic acid in terms of tyrosinase inhibitory activity. DES17 was 17-fold more potent antioxidants than ascorbic acid. The morphology of AL powder before and after extraction with DESs under SEM suggested that DESs have the same mechanism as classical organic solvents. These ORV-enriched extracts can be directly incorporated into cosmetic formulations and production scales without the need to prepare a stock solution and are therefore referred to as ready-to-use extracts. This study successfully pioneered the use of DESs for environmentally friendly and highly efficient ORV extraction from AL to produce ready-to-use extracts and applications for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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Open AccessArticle
Nanoemulsions Containing Passiflora quadrangularis L. Fruit Extracts for Cosmetic Application and Skin Efficacy Study
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Nareekan Yanasan, Worrapon Wangkananon, Surapol Natakankitkul and Kanokwan Kiattisin
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020057 - 04 Apr 2024
Abstract
This study aimed to determine the anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities of Passiflora quadrangularis fruit extracts (epicarp, mesocarp, endocarp, and seed), develop stable nanoemulsions, and evaluate the efficacy of the nanoemulsions containing extracts in human volunteers. The results indicated that the epicarp and
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This study aimed to determine the anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities of Passiflora quadrangularis fruit extracts (epicarp, mesocarp, endocarp, and seed), develop stable nanoemulsions, and evaluate the efficacy of the nanoemulsions containing extracts in human volunteers. The results indicated that the epicarp and seed extracts exhibited collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition effects. Gallic acid was identified in the extracts, with the highest concentration found in the endocarp extract (1449.35 mg gallic acid/g extract) followed by the seed extract (839.63 mg gallic acid/g extract). The endocarp and seed extracts demonstrated good stability at different temperatures. Consequently, these extracts were selected for incorporation into nanoemulsions due to their high yield, excellent anti-tyrosinase and anti-aging activity, and good stability, making them suitable for cosmetic products. The nanoemulsions were prepared using the ultrasonication method, resulting in a particle size of 133.1 ± 0.8 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.33 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of −61.8 ± 0.6 mV, indicating good stability. The nano-serum containing extracts was non-irritating and safe for the skin. Skin evaluation among human volunteers after 60 days of application revealed improvements in skin hydration and reduction in wrinkles. In conclusion, nanoemulsions containing P. quadrangularis fruit extracts have the potential to be effective cosmetic products.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)
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Open AccessArticle
Permanent Makeup (PMU) Removal with Plant Origin Extracts
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Eleni Andreou, Efstathios Rallis, Sophia Hatziantoniou and Vasiliki Kefala
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 56; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020056 - 03 Apr 2024
Abstract
Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular application for the correction of face and body imperfections. It can be applied over the facial area to correct the shape and color of eyebrows, to the eyelids to create permanent eyeliner shapes, and the lips to
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Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular application for the correction of face and body imperfections. It can be applied over the facial area to correct the shape and color of eyebrows, to the eyelids to create permanent eyeliner shapes, and the lips to create permanent lipliner and lip shading features. Furthermore, its “medical” use on the scalp and men’s facial hair area to camouflage hair follicles and to cover hairless areas makes it popular for hair transplants. No matter how useful these procedures are, there are always mistakes and the factor of bad application which raises the number of patients who want to “remove” it or “correct” it on their face or body. In order to find a non-laser solution for PMU removal, we investigated the decolorization capacity of common plants and plant origin extracts on mouse models. Two methods were used for PMU decolorization. The first one included the use of traditional tattooing with needles combined with plant origin extracts applied over the tattooed area. The second one included the use of electroporation technology application with the combination of plant origin materials to remove the PMU colorants over the tattooed area. In both cases, the permanent makeup colorants for eyebrows, eyeliners, and lipliners were applied in vivo.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessReview
Wigs and Alopecia Areata: Psychosocial Impact and Economic Considerations
by
Ashling Courtney and John C. Su
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 55; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020055 - 03 Apr 2024
Abstract
Alopecia areata (AA) presents a challenging and unpredictable condition associated with substantial psychosocial and financial burdens. A chronic, relapsing form of non-scarring hair loss, it affects approximately 0.1–0.2% of the population worldwide with a lifetime risk of 1.0% to 2.1%. The psychosocial implications
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Alopecia areata (AA) presents a challenging and unpredictable condition associated with substantial psychosocial and financial burdens. A chronic, relapsing form of non-scarring hair loss, it affects approximately 0.1–0.2% of the population worldwide with a lifetime risk of 1.0% to 2.1%. The psychosocial implications of AA, including its association with depression, anxiety, social phobia, employment disruption, and relationship challenges are well described. Significant economic costs of AA include those of healthcare, lost income, transportation, psychotherapy, and cosmetic accessories (wigs and hairpieces). However, wigs and hairpieces can contribute to enhanced self-esteem, confidence, and overall quality of life (QOL) in AA patients; these positive outcomes correlating with satisfaction in appearance. This article explores the role of wigs in addressing the aesthetic and emotional impact of AA, emphasizing their importance as potential coping mechanisms for individuals facing hair loss whilst also acknowledging possible barriers to their use. Different types of wigs and hairpieces, their respective advantages and disadvantages, and methods of attachment are thoroughly discussed, providing a comprehensive overview for both patients and healthcare professionals. Considering the economic impact of AA, this article explores the cost of wigs in Australia and available financial assistance programs. Wigs can play a pivotal role in rapidly addressing the multifaceted challenges posed by AA, offering time for psychosocial adaptation and delayed response to medical therapies. This review aims to provide valuable insights to inform evidence-based, practical, and personalized counselling of patients with AA and enable shared decision making about the utility of wigs and other cosmetic interventions for hair loss. Further research is warranted to explore differences in the optimal utilization of wigs between diverse sub-populations with AA.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)
Open AccessReview
Current Knowledge and Regulatory Framework on the Use of Hyaluronic Acid for Aesthetic Injectable Skin Rejuvenation Treatments
by
Jenny Allen and Kalliopi Dodou
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020054 - 03 Apr 2024
Abstract
Dermal injections of hyaluronic acid gel for aesthetic skin rejuvenation are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. Although these products are classified as medical devices, the regulations on their administration by licensed practitioners are still weak, whereas their manufacturers increasingly highlight and advertise the cellular
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Dermal injections of hyaluronic acid gel for aesthetic skin rejuvenation are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. Although these products are classified as medical devices, the regulations on their administration by licensed practitioners are still weak, whereas their manufacturers increasingly highlight and advertise the cellular effects that underpin the efficacy of these injections. In this review, we discuss all current knowledge on the mode of action of dermally injected hyaluronic acid and the potential toxicological implications, especially from crosslinked gels, in conjunction with the current global regulations. We also highlight the urgent need for further research to elucidate the therapeutic implications and underscore the imperative need for robust regulatory frameworks to safeguard public health. We conclude that dermal injections of hyaluronic acid have several therapeutic implications that warrant further research and that strict regulations must be applied to their manufacture/quality control and the required qualifications of licensed aesthetic injectors.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)
Open AccessArticle
Unlocking the Potential: A Comprehensive Analysis of the Technological Properties and Consumer Perception of Shampoo Enriched with Patchouli Extract and Allantoin
by
Ugnė Žlabienė, Erlita Bartkutė and Jurga Bernatonienė
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 53; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020053 - 02 Apr 2024
Abstract
Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their
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Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their impact on the technological properties of the product. With limited research on their efficacy, our investigation contributes valuable insights to the development of effective and consumer-friendly shampoos targeting dandruff concerns. Physicochemical characteristics (pH, surface tension, texture) were evaluated, alongside specific quality assessments such as wetting time, dirt dispersion, foaming, and cleaning action, in in vivo consumer research. Shampoo formulations incorporating 0.5% Patchoul’Up™ and 1% allantoin exhibited acceptable properties. However, the addition of plant-derived ingredients resulted in a beneficial decrease in surface tension (5.87%). Nevertheless, a decrease in cohesiveness (18%) over a 5-month period resulted in rheological changes, indicating potential instability (p < 0.05). While the consumer evaluation aligns with laboratory findings, continuous research is essential to ensure stability and validate the anti-dandruff potential of the formulation, both in vitro and in vivo. This involves expanding the number of volunteers, with a specific focus on individuals experiencing dandruff concerns, to assess the shampoo’s efficacy and impact on diverse user experiences.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
A Sustainable Multistage Process for Immobilizing Bioactive Compounds on Layered Double Hydroxides
by
Serena Coiai, Elisa Passaglia, Alice Telleschi, Werner Oberhauser, Maria-Beatrice Coltelli and Francesca Cicogna
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 52; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020052 - 02 Apr 2024
Abstract
Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid,
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Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid, and 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid. These organic compounds are known for their powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and are highly suitable for cosmetics, biomedicine, and food packaging. To enhance sustainability, a multistage procedure has been developed with the aim of recovering unexchanged carboxylate anions from residual reaction water, ensuring an environmentally friendly and easily scalable preparation process. The process, adapted for each of the three molecules, allows the production of a consistently high-quality hybrid product containing an organic fraction ranging from 10 to 48% by weight, depending on the specific molecule used. The immobilization of organic compounds has occurred either within the layers of LDH through intercalation or on the external surface through adsorption. Good antioxidant capacity has been exhibited by these powdered hybrid systems, as assessed through both the DPPH and linoleic acid/β-carotene tests. Sustainable production practices are enabled by this innovative approach, which also opens avenues for the development of advanced materials for diverse applications across various industries.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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