Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration

Zaitsev, Vladimir Y.; Alexandrovskaya, Yulia M.; Sovetsky, Alexander A.; Kasianenko, Ekaterina M.; Matveyev, Alexander L.; Shabanov, Dmitry V.; Darvin, Maxim E.

doi:10.3390/cosmetics12050183

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Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration

by

Vladimir Y. Zaitsev

^1,*

,

Yulia M. Alexandrovskaya

²

,

Alexander A. Sovetsky

¹

,

Ekaterina M. Kasianenko

^1,3

,

Alexander L. Matveyev

¹

,

Dmitry V. Shabanov

¹ and

Maxim E. Darvin

^4,*

¹

A.V. Gaponov-Grekhov Institute of Applied Physics of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Uljanova St., 46, 603950 Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

²

Terra Quantum GmbH, Barthstrasse 18, 80339 Munich, Germany

³

National Research Centre “Kurchatov Institute”, Academician Kurchatov square 1, 123098 Moscow, Russia

⁴

Independent Researcher, 10178 Berlin, Germany

^*

Authors to whom correspondence should be addressed.

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 183; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183

Submission received: 28 July 2025 / Revised: 20 August 2025 / Accepted: 25 August 2025 / Published: 26 August 2025

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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Abstract

Non-invasive, in vivo assessment of target substances penetration into the skin remains a significant challenge in dermatology and cosmetology. While various optical methods have been employed for this purpose, each has inherent limitations. Here, we present a novel non-invasive imaging approach using optical coherence elastography (OCE) to simultaneously determine the penetration depth of topically applied osmotically active substances in biological objects and associated water content changes with high sensitivity. Most substances are osmotically active and generate osmotic pressure proportional to their concentration, inducing deformations in biological objects. These osmotic strains can be visualized similarly to mechanical or thermal strains. Using OCE, we evaluated penetration and dehydration depth profiles in polyacrylamide gel phantoms, ex vivo cartilage, and porcine ear skin samples treated with aqueous glycerol solutions of varying concentrations. Additionally, the penetration and effect of jojoba oil were assessed in treated skin samples. The results are consistent with those obtained by other established methods, confirming the reliability and applicability of OCE. This technique offers unique capabilities not achievable with other optical methods, making it a valuable complementary tool for non-invasive studies. It holds significant promise for advancing both research and clinical applications in dermatology and cosmetology, including its potential translation to in vivo assessments.

Keywords: optical coherence elastography; optical coherence tomography; strain mapping; osmotic strain; strain imaging; skin penetration; stratum corneum; epidermis; deep tissue imaging

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MDPI and ACS Style

Zaitsev, V.Y.; Alexandrovskaya, Y.M.; Sovetsky, A.A.; Kasianenko, E.M.; Matveyev, A.L.; Shabanov, D.V.; Darvin, M.E. Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 183. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183

AMA Style

Zaitsev VY, Alexandrovskaya YM, Sovetsky AA, Kasianenko EM, Matveyev AL, Shabanov DV, Darvin ME. Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration. Cosmetics. 2025; 12(5):183. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183

Chicago/Turabian Style

Zaitsev, Vladimir Y., Yulia M. Alexandrovskaya, Alexander A. Sovetsky, Ekaterina M. Kasianenko, Alexander L. Matveyev, Dmitry V. Shabanov, and Maxim E. Darvin. 2025. "Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration" Cosmetics 12, no. 5: 183. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183

APA Style

Zaitsev, V. Y., Alexandrovskaya, Y. M., Sovetsky, A. A., Kasianenko, E. M., Matveyev, A. L., Shabanov, D. V., & Darvin, M. E. (2025). Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration. Cosmetics, 12(5), 183. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183

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Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration

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