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Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries
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Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries

A special issue of Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (ISSN 2077-1312).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (15 October 2016) | Viewed by 39440

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Harshinie Karunarathna

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Energy and Environment Research Group, Zienkiewicz Centre for Computational Engineering, College of Engineering, ESRI Building, Bay Campus, Swansea University, Swansea SA1 8EN, UK
Interests: coastal/estuarine sediment transport and morphodynamics; climate change impacts on ocean waves and morphology; renewable energy; coastal erosion and flooding; computational modelling
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Jennifer Brown

E-Mail Website
Co-Guest Editor
Marine Physics and Ocean Climate, National Oceanographic Centre, Liverpool, UK
Interests: modelling coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics; storm hazards; flood and erosion risk; climate change; coastal resilience
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Ocean waves play a direct role in defining hydrodynamic, sediment transport, and morphodynamic characteristics of coasts and estuaries. In addition, they can play an indirect role through wave-current interaction. As a result, stability and integrity of coastal and estuarine systems are directly linked to local wave conditions prevailing in these systems. Additionally, waves can have a significant impact on marine ecosystem dynamics, pollutant transport and ecosystem services. This Special Issue will provide a collection of research articles on the advances in modeling, analyses and forecasting of waves in coastal and estuarine systems.

Dr. Harshinie Karunarathna
Dr. Jenifer Brown
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Coasts
  • Estuaries
  • Waves
  • sediment transport
  • coastal morphology
  • marine ecosystems

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

22 pages, 2657 KiB  
Article
Wind-Wave Characterization in a Wind-Jet Region: The Ebro Delta Case
by Laura Ràfols, Elena Pallares, Manuel Espino, Manel Grifoll, Agustín Sánchez-Arcilla, Manel Bravo and Abdel Sairouní
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2017, 5(1), 12; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse5010012 - 20 Feb 2017
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5960
Abstract
This manuscript describes the wind-wave generation, development and fading in a complex area: a wind-jet region. The study region is the offshore Ebro Delta (NW Mediterranean Sea) where strong cross-shelf winds occur due to a topographic channelization. This leads to relatively short-fetch conditions, [...] Read more.
This manuscript describes the wind-wave generation, development and fading in a complex area: a wind-jet region. The study region is the offshore Ebro Delta (NW Mediterranean Sea) where strong cross-shelf winds occur due to a topographic channelization. This leads to relatively short-fetch conditions, which interact with the swell component. The third-generation wave model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) is implemented and fed by high-resolution wind fields. A combination of buoy and High Frequency (HF) radar data is used for model validation, resulting in a reasonable level of agreement. The numerical results characterize the wind-wave evolution during a wind jet. A bimodal spectrum is observed due to the interaction of swell and sea systems. The wave directional spreading exhibits lower values at the wind-jet axis. Finally, a reliability analysis of the wave data from an HF radar deployed at the region is carried out. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
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18 pages, 3444 KiB  
Article
Role of Beach Morphology in Wave Overtopping Hazard Assessment
by Benjamin T. Phillips, Jennifer M. Brown, Jean-Raymond Bidlot and Andrew J. Plater
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2017, 5(1), 1; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse5010001 - 5 Jan 2017
Cited by 23 | Viewed by 9559
Abstract
Understanding the role of beach morphology in controlling wave overtopping volume will further minimise uncertainties in flood risk assessments at coastal locations defended by engineered structures worldwide. XBeach is used to model wave overtopping volume for a 1:200 year joint probability distribution of [...] Read more.
Understanding the role of beach morphology in controlling wave overtopping volume will further minimise uncertainties in flood risk assessments at coastal locations defended by engineered structures worldwide. XBeach is used to model wave overtopping volume for a 1:200 year joint probability distribution of waves and water levels with measured, pre- and post-storm beach profiles. The simulation with measured bathymetry is repeated with and without morphological evolution enabled during the modelled storm event. This research assesses the role of morphology in controlling wave overtopping volumes for hazardous events that meet the typical design level of coastal defence structures. Results show that disabling storm-driven morphology under-represents modelled wave overtopping volumes by up to 39% under high H s conditions and has a greater impact on the wave overtopping rate than the variability applied within the boundary conditions due to the range of wave-water level combinations that meet the 1:200 year joint probability criterion. Accounting for morphology in flood modelling is therefore critical for accurately predicting wave overtopping volumes and the resulting flood hazard and to assess economic losses. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
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20 pages, 1802 KiB  
Article
Variations in the Wave Climate and Sediment Transport Due to Climate Change along the Coast of Vietnam
by Ali Dastgheib, Johan Reyns, Supot Thammasittirong, Sutat Weesakul, Marcus Thatcher and Roshanka Ranasinghe
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4(4), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4040086 - 15 Dec 2016
Cited by 23 | Viewed by 5615
Abstract
This study quantifies the climate change (CC)-driven variations in wave characteristics and the resulting variations in potential longshore sediment transport rate along the ~2000 km mainland coast of Vietnam. Wind fields derived from global circulation models (GCM) for current and future (2041–2060 and [...] Read more.
This study quantifies the climate change (CC)-driven variations in wave characteristics and the resulting variations in potential longshore sediment transport rate along the ~2000 km mainland coast of Vietnam. Wind fields derived from global circulation models (GCM) for current and future (2041–2060 and 2081–2100) climate conditions are used to force a numerical wave model (MIKE21 SW) to derive the deep water wave climate. The offshore wave climate is translated to nearshore wave conditions using another numerical model (Simulating WAves Nearshore—SWAN) and finally, a sediment transport model (GENEralized model for Simulating Shoreline Change—GENESIS) is used to estimate potential sediment transport for current and future climate conditions. Results indicate that CC effects are substantially different in the northern, central and southern parts of the coast of Vietnam. The 2081–2100 mean significant wave height along the northern coast is estimated to be up to 8 cm lower (relative to 1981–2000), while projections for central and southern coasts of Vietnam indicate slightly higher (increases of up to 5 cm and 7 cm respectively). Wave direction along the northern coast of Vietnam is projected to shift by up to 4° towards the south (clockwise) by 2081–2100 (relative to 1981–2000), up to 6° clockwise along the central coast and by up to 8° anti-clockwise (to the north) along the southern coast. The projected potential longshore sediment transport rates show very substantial and spatially variable future changes in net transport rates along the coast of Vietnam, with increases of up to 0.5 million m3/year at some locations (by 2081–2100 relative to 1981–2000), implying major changes in future coastline position and/or orientation. The vicinity of the highly developed city of Da Nang is likely to be particularly subject to coastline changes, with potentially an additional 875,000 m3 of sand being transported away from the area per year by the turn of the 21st century. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
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18 pages, 5523 KiB  
Article
Climate Change Impacts on Future Wave Climate around the UK
by William G. Bennett, Harshinie Karunarathna, Nobuhito Mori and Dominic E. Reeve
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4(4), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4040078 - 18 Nov 2016
Cited by 15 | Viewed by 6904
Abstract
Understanding the changes in future storm wave climate is crucial for coastal managers and planners to make informed decisions required for sustainable coastal management and for the renewable energy industry. To investigate potential future changes to storm climate around the UK, global wave [...] Read more.
Understanding the changes in future storm wave climate is crucial for coastal managers and planners to make informed decisions required for sustainable coastal management and for the renewable energy industry. To investigate potential future changes to storm climate around the UK, global wave model outputs of two time slice experiments were analysed with 1979–2009 representing present conditions and 2075–2100 representing the future climate. Three WaveNet buoy sites around the United Kingdom, which represent diverse site conditions and have long datasets, were chosen for this study. A storm event definition (Dissanayake et al., 2015) was used to separate meteorologically-independent storm events from wave data, which in turn allowed storm wave characteristics to be analysed. Model outputs were validated through a comparison of the modelled storm data with observed storm data for overlapping periods. Although no consistent trends across all future clusters were observed, there were no significant increases in storm wave height, storm count or storm power in the future, at least according to the global wave projection results provided by the chosen model. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
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32 pages, 11069 KiB  
Article
Storm Surge Modeling in Large Estuaries: Sensitivity Analyses to Parameters and Physical Processes in the Chesapeake Bay
by Juan L. Garzon and Celso M. Ferreira
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4(3), 45; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse4030045 - 30 Jul 2016
Cited by 54 | Viewed by 10119
Abstract
Large estuaries are especially vulnerable to coastal flooding due to the potential of combined storm surges and riverine flows. Numerical models can support flood prevention and planning for coastal communities. However, while recent advancements in the development of numerical models for storm surge [...] Read more.
Large estuaries are especially vulnerable to coastal flooding due to the potential of combined storm surges and riverine flows. Numerical models can support flood prevention and planning for coastal communities. However, while recent advancements in the development of numerical models for storm surge prediction have led to robust and accurate models; an increasing number of parameters and physical processes’ representations are available to modelers and engineers. This study investigates uncertainties associated with the selection of physical parameters or processes involved in storm surge modeling in large estuaries. Specifically, we explored the sensitivity of a hydrodynamic model (ADCIRC) and a coupled wind-wave and circulation model system (ADCIRC + SWAN) to Manning’s n coefficient, wind waves and circulation interaction (wave setup), minimum depth (H0) in the wetting and drying algorithm, and spatially constant horizontal eddy viscosity (ESLM) forced by tides and hurricane winds. Furthermore, sensitivity analysis to Manning’s n coefficient and the interaction of waves and circulation were analyzed by using three different numerical meshes. Manning’s coefficient analysis was divided into waterway (rivers, bay and shore, and open ocean) and overland. Overall, the rivers exhibited a larger sensitivity, and M2 amplitude and maximum water elevations were reduced by 0.20 m and 0.56 m, respectively, by using a high friction value; similarly, high friction reduced maximum water levels up to 0.30 m in overland areas; the wave setup depended on the offshore wave height, angle of breaking, the profile morphology, and the mesh resolution, accounting for up to 0.19 m setup inside the bay; minimum depth analysis showed that H0 = 0.01 added an artificial mass of water in marshes and channels, meanwhile H = 0.1 partially solved this problem; and the eddy viscosity study demonstrated that the ESLM = 40 values reduced up to 0.40 m the peak of the maximum water levels in the upper side of narrow rivers. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Modelling Waves in Coasts and Estuaries)
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