Cosmetics, Volume 9, Issue 3 (June 2022) – 23 articles

The aging process encompasses gradual and continuous changes at the cellular level that slowly accumulate with age. The signs of aging include many physiological changes in both skin and hair such as fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, hair thinning and hair loss. The aim of the current study was to investigate the anti-aging potential of coffee berry extract (CBE) on human dermal fibroblast (HDF) and hair follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells. Coffee berry was extracted by 50% ethanol and determined for chemical constituents by HPLC technique. Cytotoxicity of the extract was examined on both cells by MTT assay. Then, HDF cells were used to evaluate antioxidant properties by using superoxide dismutase activity (SOD) and nitric oxide inhibition as well as anti-collagenase inhibition assays. The effectiveness of anti-hair loss properties was investigated in HFDP cells by considering cell proliferation, 5α-reductase inhibition (5AR), and growth factor expression. The results showed that caffeine and chlorogenic acid were identified as major constituents in CBE. CBE had lower toxicity and cell proliferation than caffeine and chlorogenic acid on both cells. CBE showed SOD and nitric oxide inhibition activities that were higher than those of caffeine but lower than those of chlorogenic acid. Interestingly, CBE had the highest significant anti-collagenase activity, and its 5AR inhibition activity was comparable to that of chlorogenic acid, which was higher than caffeine. CBE also stimulated hair-related gene expression, especially insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), keratinocyte growth factor (KGF) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). The results confirmed that CBE provided anti-aging activity on both skin and hair cells and could be beneficial for applications in cosmeceuticals. Full article

This article reviews the use of Kojic Acid (KA) as a skin-lightening ingredient in the cosmetics industry. In 1907, Saito discovered KA, a natural product; it has since become one of the most investigated skin-lightening agents. This paper highlights the findings of the research conducted on this agent. It has been found that KA has certain disadvantages, and researchers have attempted to mitigate these disadvantages by designing new equivalents of KA that are more efficient in tyrosinase inhibition. These equivalents are also safe to use and have improved properties and solubility. The Cosmeceutical Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates that this ingredient can be safely used at a concentration not higher than 1% due to its cytotoxicity. Other scientific data also support its safety at a concentration of 2% or less. It was shown to be helpful in the treatment of hyper pigmentary disorders, such as freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, which has been proven clinically. Full article

Background: The use of herbal extracts as the source of antioxidant substances capable of neutralizing free radicals and providing protection from ionizing radiation appears to be an alternative therapy for radiodermatitis. As concerns the prevention and treatment of side effects, a lot of recommendations are based on proper experience of radiotherapy centers. We summarize recent research aiming at reducing radiation-induced skin injuries by use of proper skin care, using topical preparations with herbal extracts including onco-cosmetics. Methods: This article is limited to a critical analysis of scientific and professional literature. It concerns preparations in different physicochemical forms, e.g., gels, emulsions, ointments. We stress the connection between the type of applied skin care (type of preparation, its composition, the dose), the properties of the herbal extract and the evaluation of its efficiency in preventing and treating radiation reaction on skin. Conclusions: Herbal extracts can be added to recipes because they are part of a category of cosmeceutical supplements and can be introduced into preparations without prescription. The effectiveness evaluation for herbal extracts in radiotherapy is not an easy task since there are no strict guidelines. Studies should be preceded by the analysis of herbal extracts and recipe in terms of physicochemical, dermatological and performance characteristics. Full article

Water activity (a_w) as an important parameter for self-preservation can help to control microbial growth in cosmetic formulations. However, high amounts of water-binding substances are required to lower the a_w enough to affect microbial growth. Since consequences for the skin barrier have been poorly studied so far, we investigated the effect of a_w-lowering agents on both the antimicrobial properties of o/w emulsions and skin physiological parameters. A combination of selected natural humectants (Sodium lactate, Propanediol, Erythritol, Betaine and Sodium PCA) with a total concentration of 28 wt% in an o/w emulsion was able to reduce its a_w from 0.980 ± 0.003 to 0.865 ± 0.005. The challenge test results of the a_w-lowered emulsion showed a convincing microbial count reduction in potentially pathogenic microorganisms. The addition of as little as 0.5% of the antimicrobial multifunctionals Glyceryl Caprylate and Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract further enhanced the antimicrobial effect, resulting in adequate antimicrobial protection. Moreover, twice-daily application of the a_w-lowered emulsion for a period of four weeks led to a skin barrier-enhancing effect: TEWL significantly decreased, and SC hydration significantly increased. Thus, we present an opportunity to replace conventional preservatives with a natural alternative preservation strategy that has been shown to offer benefits for the skin. Full article

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH. Full article

In recent years, one of the most concerning topics in healthcare is the constant exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light being the cause of numerous skin diseases. This issue created a keen interest in sun-care cosmetics, and particularly in sunscreens, since it has been proven to significantly reduce human skin disorders. Usually, sunscreens are formulated as emulsions with organic UV-absorbers dissolved in the oil phase; thus, the solubility of these UV-filters in the emollients is crucial. In this work we expose the properties of different emollients, correlating the chemical structure with the ability to dissolve organic UV-filters. Full article

Preservatives are typically used to protect cosmetic products from microbial spoilage. However, there is evidence that some preservatives can increase oxidation in O/W emulsions. This could have disadvantages for product quality, efficacy, and consumer health and well-being. Therefore, the impact of preservatives or multifunctionals on oxidation should be quantified. For this purpose, five O/W emulsions with different preservatives were prepared and stored. During storage, the oxygen concentration in the headspace of the samples was studied. The samples showed significant differences in their oxygen uptake and daily oxygen consumption rate. Thus, the preservatives used in this study had an influence on oxidation. Full article

Azadirachta indica (Neem) is a large tree that is native to India and is traditionally used due to its several properties, mainly to treat skin diseases, as well as its “herbicidal” activity. Its bark, leaves, seeds, fruits and flowers are widely used in medicinal treatment due to the presence of active secondary metabolites with biological effects, mainly limonoids and tetranortriterpenoids, such as azadirachtin. Thus, A. indica was studied in a variety of conditions, such as anticancer, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive agents, as well as a biopesticide. Furthermore, differentiated cell tissue in A. indica cultivation was reported to produce active metabolites for different purposes. However, only a few studies have been developed regarding its potential use in cosmetics. For instance, most studies explained the antimicrobial properties in health conditions, such as acne, dandruff and personal health care. Here, we summarized not only the most common cosmetic claims to treat acne but also mitigating other skin disorders related to inflammatory and oxidant processes in recent in vivo studies and patents to aid researchers and industrialists to select A. indica derivatives as novel cosmetic ingredients. Full article

Cinnamon (Cinnamomum burmannii) is a potential source used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its flavonoids and antioxidant properties. This research aims to determine the best solvent for extracting flavonoids, to conduct a large-scale isolation of flavonoids, and to evaluate the effect of ascorbic acid and temperature on the extract’s stability for 16 weeks. Various solvents for small-scale extraction were screened based on the polarity index, and one of the best for use in large-scale maceration was selected based on the AlCl₃ colorimetric flavonoid content and DPPH antioxidant activity. The stability test was performed by treating cinnamon with and without ascorbic acid at selected temperatures. This test measured physical stability, evaluated flavonoid content and antioxidant activity, and analyzed volatile and non-volatile compounds using GC-MS and LC-MS. The most excellent solvent to extract flavonoids was ethanol due to its high yield (21.50%), flavonoid content (0.01749 ± 8.0 × 10⁻⁵ mg QE/g extract), and antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ 0.0162 + 7.5 × 10⁻⁴ mg/mL). The ascorbic acid addition at both temperatures affected the stability of the pH and chemical constituents. The vast majority of the extract’s flavonoid content and antioxidant activity continued to increase until the end of the observation week. This study revealed that ethanol was the best extraction solvent, and ascorbic acid can be recommended as a stabilizer of cinnamon extract for use in cosmetics for further application. Full article

Attention to environmental issues has become increasingly important in recent years and also massively affects the cosmetics sector. In this context, sunscreens are questioned due to the proven or believed ecotoxicity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters. This has pushed developers increasingly towards the use of inorganic filters, which can prove difficult to spread with low compliance. We faced the problem by proposing a rational approach based on the evaluation of the morphology of the inorganic material, as the real dimension does not often correspond to the characteristics declared by the producers because the material itself tends to aggregate. A combination of a specially selected inorganic filter is required to formulate Cosmetic Products with a Natural and Sustainable Connotation (CPCNS) standards. Full article

The continuous research advances in the microbiome field is changing clinicians’ points of view about the involvement of the microbiome in human health and disease, including autoimmune diseases such as alopecia areata (AA). Both gut and cutaneous dysbiosis have been considered to play roles in alopecia areata. A new approach is currently possible owing also to the use of omic techniques for studying the role of the microbiome in the disease by the deep understanding of microorganisms involved in the dysbiosis as well as of the pathways involved. These findings suggest the possibility to adopt a topical approach using either cosmetics or medical devices, to modulate or control, for example, the growth of overexpressed species using specific bacteriocins or postbiotics or with pH control. This will favour at the same time the growth of beneficial bacteria which, in turn, can impact positively both the structure of the scalp ecosystem on the host’s response to internal and external offenders. This approach, together with a “systemic” one, via oral supplementation, diet, or faecal transplantation, makes a reliable translation of microbiome research in clinical practice and should be taken into consideration every time alopecia areata is considered by a clinician. Full article

Hyaluronic acid (HA) has long been used for its anti-age properties, as an ingredient in both topical applications and food supplements. In this study, a novel sodium hyaluronate, based on the innovative full spectrum technology, was administered as an ingredient of a cosmetic product and as the main constituent of a food supplement to evaluate its efficacy in counteracting skin ageing signs. Seventy-five female subjects were randomly assigned to the following treatments for 4 weeks: an active food supplement and a placebo cosmetic product, an active cosmetic product and a placebo food supplement, and a combination of the two products containing the active ingredient, that is, an “In&Out” treatment. The subjects used the placebo cosmetic product for another 14 days. Improvement of all the outcome measures (skin moisturization, elasticity, firmness and profilometry) was achieved by all treatments (p < 0.05); however, the combined treatment resulted in a further amelioration of the skin aging signs with respect to the two single active treatments (p < 0.001), and such effect lasted also after the follow-up period. In conclusion, such results confirmed that the concomitant administration of hyaluronans by these two different routes represents more than an interesting approach to counteract skin aging signs. Full article

Cellulose ethers are naturally derived ingredients that are commonly used in personal care products as rheology modifiers, film formers, stabilizers, and sensorial agents. In this work, we investigated the physicochemical properties of various grades of hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), methylcellulose (MC), and sodium carboxymethylcellulose (CMC). In addition, we also studied the influence of hydrophobic modification on the structure of HEC by carrying out experiments with cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose (HMHEC). Rheological, friction coefficient, dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), surface tension analysis, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) data were generated for the cellulose ethers in order to obtain information about their viscosity, lubricity, moisture absorption, solubility in the bulk solution phase, physical properties, and thermal degradation profile, respectively. Full article

The degradation and reduction in number of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins are representative biological changes associated with decreased elasticity resulting in various skin problems. Elastin is an ECM protein that plays an important role in maintaining the skin’s structure. It is highly elastic and helps the tissue regain its shape after stretching or contracting. We aimed to evaluate the efficacy of the product containing amino acids, copper, and hyaluronic acid on the improvement of skin aging. A small open single-center study involved four treatments performed on five subjects at 1-week intervals with Elastic Lab^®. As a result, eye wrinkles, skin moisture, inner elasticity, thickness, and density were improved 1 week after the last treatment in all subjects compared to the baseline. Among all evaluation items, skin elasticity, thickness, and density showed significant increases. Therefore, by using a composition containing amino acids, minerals, and hyaluronic acid, the biosynthesis of elastin and collagen in the skin increases, restoring skin elasticity and improving various skin problems. Full article

Skin aging usually results from intrinsic or extrinsic stress. Photodamage promotes skin damage and stimulates the skin, manifesting as wrinkles, dryness, roughness, and loss of elasticity. We have previously found that blackberry (Rubus fruticosus B) fermented by Lactobacillus plantarum JBMI F5, designated BB-1000, showed an in vitro and in vivo anti-skin-aging activity. In the present study, we have further evaluated the anti-aging effect of BB-1000 via a randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled clinical trial. The trial included 102 volunteers aged 35 to 59 years who have dry skin and wrinkles. Subjects took BB-1000 or a placebo orally at 800 mg/day for 12 weeks. Skin hydration and degree of wrinkles around the eyes were measured at weeks 6 and 12. Skin hydration had no significant effect in both groups at weeks 6 and 12. Otherwise, volunteers in the BB-1000 group had a significant reduction in eye wrinkle grade at week 12. These findings suggest that BB-1000 may be considered a candidate anti-aging agent for preventing skin wrinkles as a nutricosmetic agent. Full article

Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women. Full article

Permanent make-up (PMU) has become a very popular application over the last few years. The ingredients of PMU inks, used over the face area, are organic and inorganic substances very close to the chemical composition of tattoo inks. As the application rates increase, the demand for PMU removal rises. The aim of this study is to assess the decolorization of PMU inks using preparations originating from different plant sources. The leaves of Pelargonium zonale (PE) were extracted with water for 48 h. The Total Phenolic Content (TPC) of the extract was determined using the Folin–Ciocalteu technique reaching 201.34 ± 4.57 μg Gallic Acid Equivalents (GAE)/mL of extract. The antioxidant activity of the extract was 20.87 ± 0.36 μg of Trolox equivalents (TE)/mL and 3.56 ± 0.43 mg FeSO₄×7H₂O mL of extract when assessed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) or ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay respectively. The decolorization potential of PE leaf extract on five commercially available PMU inks of different hues was assessed by UV-Vis spectrophotometry in comparison to polyphenol oxidases enzyme (PPO). The results demonstrated higher absorption reduction that indicates decolorization potential for the inks that have mainly ferrous oxides as colorants. Full article

The macroscopic and microscopic deterioration of human skin with age is, in part, attributed to a functional decline in mitochondrial health. We previously demonstrated that exercise attenuated age-associated changes within the skin through enhanced mitochondrial health via IL-15 signaling, an exercise-induced cytokine whose presence increases in circulation following physical activity. The purpose of this investigation was to determine if these mitochondrial-enhancing effects could be mimicked with the provision of a novel multi-ingredient supplement (MIS). Cultured human fibroblasts isolated from older, sedentary women were treated with control media (CON) or CON supplemented with the following active ingredients to create the MIS: coenzyme Q10, alpha lipoic acid, resveratrol, curcumin, zinc, lutein, astaxanthin, copper, biotin, and vitamins C, D, and E. Outcomes were determined following 24 or 72 h of treatment. MIS provision to dermal fibroblasts significantly increased the mRNA abundance of mitochondrial biogenesis activators and downstream IL-15 signaling pathways, and proteins for oxidative phosphorylation subunits and antioxidant defenses. These findings were co-temporal with lower cellular senescence and cytotoxicity following MIS treatment. In summary, MIS supplementation led to exercise-mimetic effects on human dermal fibroblasts and their mitochondria by reproducing the molecular and biochemical effects downstream of IL-15 activation. Full article

The widely reported adverse effects of synthetic ingredients encourage the development of green cosmeceuticals to achieve Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 3. The waste product of mangosteen (mangosteen peel) was utilized in the formulation to reduce waste production corresponding to SDG 12, in addition to its anti-aging and pigmentation control effects. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate novel herbal face creams containing standardized mangosteen peel extract. The mangosteen creams were formulated using natural ingredients and were evaluated for their organoleptic characteristics, rheology, spreadability and pH. Furthermore, an accelerated stability study, freeze–thaw stability study and centrifugation test were conducted. In addition, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays were conducted to assess its antioxidant effects, whereas tyrosinase inhibitory assay was conducted to determine its anti-tyrosinase activity. The formulated creams appeared light yellowish-brown and homogenous without phase separation. The creams displayed shear-thinning behavior and optimal pH which was ideal for topical application. The creams were stable after being subjected to various stability tests and were shown to have antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity. In conclusion, the development of mangosteen-based green cosmeceutical face cream is in line with SDG 3 and 12. It is expected to be used as a safe and effective alternative to synthetic products. Full article

Over the past two years, the world has experienced the destructive effects of the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic, better known as COVID-19. The use of surgical face masks was declared necessary by many governments around the world to protect citizens from catching the rapidly spreading virus. Albeit surgical masks contributing to stopping the spread of SARS-CoV-2, many people have reported rashes closely resembling acne on their chins ever since wearing face masks became mandatory. This article studies the acne that results from masks worn to prevent the transmission of the SARS-CoV-2. Acne due to the wearing of masks (“Maskne”) is a new challenge that has affected the population and can decay the mental health of societies and individuals. The exploration of the mental and physical health effects of “Maskne” help us to form treatments that emphasize the association of improving mental health to decrease acne and enhancing quality of life. Full article

A new dexpanthenol-containing hand cream (ND-HC) was developed for people with dry, sensitive, and/or environmentally stressed hands. To explore the performance and acceptability of ND-HC, we conducted a randomized, intraindividual comparison study in 40 healthy adult subjects with sensitive and very dry skin on the hands. Instrumental measurements determined the effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after single and/or 4 weeks’ use of ND-HC. Single and continued at least four times daily applications of ND-HC to very dry skin of the hand for 4 weeks triggered significant increases in SC hydration. On day 29, the mean change in skin capacitance from baseline was significantly greater when ND-HC was applied to the test area compared with the untreated area on the contralateral hand (12.41 vs. 4.46 a.u.; p < 0.001). Upon use of ND-HC over 4 weeks, mean TEWL decreased significantly (bilateral difference: −1.8 vs. 1.0 g/m²/h; p = 0.003), indicating an improvement in SC barrier function. A reduction in dry hand symptoms was observed over the study course. ND-HC was well tolerated and achieved a high level of acceptance and satisfaction. Our findings suggest that ND-HC complies with the required features of a state-of-the-art hand cream. Full article