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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging
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Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 July 2024) | Viewed by 34187

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Sophia Letsiou

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, Ag. Spiridonos Str. Egaleo, 12243 Athens, Greece
Interests: in vitro bioactivity; bioactive compounds; natural compounds; biochemistry; in vitro skin models
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Patrícia Rijo

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
1. CBIOS Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Campo Grande 376, 1749-024 Lisbon, Portugal
2. Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal
Interests: natural bioactive compounds; natural dermocosmetics; natural products chemistry
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. André Rolim Baby

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo 05508-900, Brazil
Interests: photoprotection; dermocosmetics; efficacy tests; cutaneous attributes
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Skin aging is a multifactorial process as it is the outcome of intrinsic and extrinsic factors and is characterized by a progressive loss of functionality and regenerative potential. In addition, the natural compounds are known to counteract aging process due to their rich chemical content and their bioactivity. With the advent of biotechnology, a growing interest exists for bioactive compounds from natural resources as they can be used in a wide range of products improving skin health. Recently, a plethora of methods are used to facilitate the proof of efficacy of natural compounds targeting their potential implementation in wide range of cosmetic products.

The aim of this Special Issue is to highlight the role of bioactive compounds derived from natural resources against skin aging using in vitro or in vivo approaches. The in vitro 3D skin models as well as cell-based methodologies are highly recommended for this purpose. Moreover, works based on cytotoxicity or ecotoxicity assessments of compounds derived from natural resources are also of interest. Approaches based on the technology of cosmetic formulations as well as approaches to regulatory issues regarding the use of natural bioactive compounds may also be considered. Different types of articles such research articles, brief reports, opinion articles, reviews and systematic revies will be considered in this Special Issue

Dr. Sophia Letsiou
Dr. Patrícia Rijo
Prof. Dr. André Rolim Baby
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • bioactive compounds
  • natural compounds
  • in vitro methods
  • cosmetic formulations

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Published Papers (9 papers)

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Research

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18 pages, 2875 KiB  
Article
Formulation and Evaluation of Radiance Serum Containing Astaxanthin–Zeaxanthin Nanoemulsions as an Anti-Wrinkle Agent: Stability, Ex Vivo, and In Vivo Assessments
by Lusi Nurdianti, Fajar Setiawan, Ira Maya, Taofik Rusdiana, Cahya Khairani Kusumawulan, Dolih Gozali and Dewi Peti Virgianti
Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 182; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050182 - 17 Oct 2024
Viewed by 1680
Abstract
Reactive oxygen species (ROS), commonly known as free radicals, induced by UV radiation can compromise the dermal structure, leading to a loss of skin elasticity and subsequent wrinkle formation. A promising strategy to prevent and mitigate skin aging involves the use of topical [...] Read more.
Reactive oxygen species (ROS), commonly known as free radicals, induced by UV radiation can compromise the dermal structure, leading to a loss of skin elasticity and subsequent wrinkle formation. A promising strategy to prevent and mitigate skin aging involves the use of topical formulations with potent antioxidant properties. Secondary metabolites such as astaxanthin and zeaxanthin are known for their robust antioxidant activities, which surpass those of tocopherol, offering significant benefits for skin health and protection against UV-induced damage. These properties suggest their potential application in anti-aging products. This study aims to evaluate the stability, ex vivo penetration, and in vivo efficacy of a radiance serum containing an astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsion (AZ-NE) designed as an anti-wrinkle agent for topical application. The research was conducted in four stages: production of the astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsion (AZ-NE), formulation of the AZ-NE radiance serum, stability, and efficacy testing. In this study, the formulated radiance serum demonstrated stability over three months under specified storage conditions. Ex vivo penetration studies indicated efficient diffusion of the active ingredients, with astaxanthin showing a penetration rate of 25.95%/cm2 and zeaxanthin at 20.80%/cm2 after 120 min. In vivo irritation tests conducted on human subjects revealed no adverse effects. Moreover, the serum exhibited substantial anti-wrinkle efficacy, with 15 female participants experiencing a wrinkle reduction of 80% to 93% over a 28-day period. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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17 pages, 2097 KiB  
Article
Physicochemical Characteristics, Fatty Acid Profile, and In Vitro Antioxidant Activity Evaluation of Sacha Inchi Seed Oil from Indonesia
by Ira Maya, Devani Olivia Winardi, Eri Amalia, Soraya Ratnawulan Mita, Cahya Khairani Kusumawulan, Norisca Aliza Putriana and Sriwidodo Sriwidodo
Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 171; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060171 - 15 Dec 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4152
Abstract
Free radicals can cause damage to the structure of the dermis layer, which makes skin lose its elasticity and leads to the formation of wrinkles. A strategy to prevent this problem is by using antioxidants. A plant that has been reported to contain [...] Read more.
Free radicals can cause damage to the structure of the dermis layer, which makes skin lose its elasticity and leads to the formation of wrinkles. A strategy to prevent this problem is by using antioxidants. A plant that has been reported to contain good antioxidant activity is sacha inchi seed (Plukenetia volubilis L.); apart from that, its oil has quite a high omega-3 content and potentially can act as an anti-aging agent stimulating the skin-cell-regeneration process, maintaining skin moisture and elasticity and stimulating collagen production. This research aims to analyze the physicochemical characteristics and determine the fatty acid profile, the levels of vitamins A, D, and E, and the antioxidant activity of sacha inchi seed oil. This research was conducted through eight main stages: sacha inchi seed extraction, quality parameters checking, phytochemical screening, determining fatty acid profiles, vitamin analysis, antioxidant activity tests, microbiological contamination tests, and heavy-metal contamination tests. In this study, quality inspection results were obtained: organoleptic form (liquid), color (yellow), odor (typical), relative density value (0.91 g/cm3), acid number (0.38 ± 0.02 mg/g), peroxide value (11.01 mEq/Kg), iodine value (179.32 g/100 g), and refractive index (1.479). The phytochemical screening results of sacha inchi seed oil were positive for containing flavonoids, triterpenoids, and steroids. The results of the fatty acid profile were omega-3 (48.5%), omega-6 (34.8%), and omega-9 (7.7%). The results of the vitamin contents analysis were vitamin A (123.42 mg/100 g), vitamin D (899.46 mg/100 g), and vitamin E (145.06 mg/100 g). The antioxidant activity test showed an IC50 value of 8.859 ppm (very strong), and the microbial and heavy-metal contamination tests were negative. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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13 pages, 1539 KiB  
Communication
Efficacy of a Novel SPF Booster Based on Research Aboard the International Space Station
by Kyle S. Landry, Elizabeth Young, Timothy S. Avery and Julia Gropman
Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050138 - 2 Oct 2023
Viewed by 4415
Abstract
The use of sunscreen is the most effective way to minimize sun damage to the skin. Excessive UV exposure is linked to an increased risk of melanoma and accelerated skin aging. Currently, approved UV filters fall into two categories: chemical- or mineral-based filters. [...] Read more.
The use of sunscreen is the most effective way to minimize sun damage to the skin. Excessive UV exposure is linked to an increased risk of melanoma and accelerated skin aging. Currently, approved UV filters fall into two categories: chemical- or mineral-based filters. Besides approved filters, there are numerous SPF-boosting additives that can be added to sunscreen products to enhance their efficacy. This manuscript shows the potential application of the novel SPF booster, Bacillus Lysate, developed from Bacillus pumilus PTA-126909, which was derived from research aboard the International Space Station. The addition of the 3.5%, 7%, or 10% Bacillus Lysate resulted in a 33%, 29%, and 22% boost in the SPF values of an SPF 30 sunscreen, respectively. The potential use of extremophiles and their byproducts, like the Bacillus Lysate presented here, may be a promising alternative SPF booster for the sunscreen industry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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11 pages, 887 KiB  
Article
Effects of Dietary Bacillus natto Productive Protein on the Skin: In Vitro Efficacy Test and Single-Armed Trial
by Naoki Igari, Ryo Ninomiya and Satoshi Kawakami
Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 135; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050135 - 25 Sep 2023
Viewed by 2904
Abstract
The dietary bacillus natto productive protein (BNPP) is a functional food ingredient that contains Bacillopeptidase F. BNPP is reported to improve blood flow. Based on previous research, we investigated the effect of BNPP on the skin. In vitro tests were performed to evaluate [...] Read more.
The dietary bacillus natto productive protein (BNPP) is a functional food ingredient that contains Bacillopeptidase F. BNPP is reported to improve blood flow. Based on previous research, we investigated the effect of BNPP on the skin. In vitro tests were performed to evaluate BNPP for its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, elastase, and active oxygen (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)) radical scavenging activities. In addition, a small-scale, single-armed trial of 15 female participants aged 40–65 years were conducted to assess the effects on human skin of BNPP, administered 250 mg/day orally, for 6 weeks. The beneficial effects of BNPP on the skin were shown by the evaluation of the tyrosinase inhibitory (0.01% and 0.1%), elastase inhibitory (0.00001% to 0.001%), and DPPH radical scavenging (1% and 10%) activities. In addition, the results suggested that the oral administration of BNPP may significantly enhance skin rosiness and also achieve significant improvement in skin conditions, defined as complexion, skin elasticity and resilience, moist feeling, skin texture, cosmetic adhesion, fine lines, under-eye darkness, eye bags, sagging cheeks, and sagging mouth. Furthermore, to investigate the use of BNPP as cosmetics, a skin irritation study was conducted using a cultured human skin model. The results showed that BNPP is non-irritant. In addition, to confirm the stability of BNPP, the quality of BNPP at the time of manufacture and three years and six months after manufacture was examined. The results showed no quality problems. These results suggest that the BNPP could be used as cosmetic purposes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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14 pages, 1615 KiB  
Article
Antioxidant Profile of Origanum dictamnus L. Exhibits Antiaging Properties against UVA Irradiation
by Sophia Letsiou, Maria Trapali, Despina Vougiouklaki, Aliki Tsakni, Dionysis Antonopoulos and Dimitra Houhoula
Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 124; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050124 - 6 Sep 2023
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2707
Abstract
Skin aging mainly occurs due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Extrinsic aging is a consequence of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Meanwhile, natural products exhibit protective properties against skin aging as well as photoaging. In this context, the research on natural anti-aging agents is [...] Read more.
Skin aging mainly occurs due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Extrinsic aging is a consequence of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Meanwhile, natural products exhibit protective properties against skin aging as well as photoaging. In this context, the research on natural anti-aging agents is greatly advanced, and in recent years, numerous plant-based products have been investigated. The aim of this study was to assess the antioxidant profile of Origanum dictamnus L. extract as well as its antiaging effects on 2D cultures of fibroblasts and keratinocytes under UVA irradiation to unravel the potential role of Origanum dictamnus L. in cosmetology. In an attempt to explore the antioxidant profile of the extract, we employed well-established enzymatic assays (DPPH, FRAP, ABTS, and TPC) and a phytochemical screening by LC/MS. According to our findings, the Origanum dictamnus L. extract possesses high scavenging activity (DPPH, ABTS), high phenolic content (TPC), and high Fe(III)-reduction activity (FRAP). Moreover, the LC/MS analysis revealed that the extract was rich in flavonoids, holding a high content of curcumin, kampferol, silymarin, cyanidin-3-glucoside, deosmin, rutin, and quercetin. To gain insight into the bioactivity of Origanum dictamnus L. extract in cell aging, the expression of various genes that are implicated in the skin aging process in keratinocytes and fibroblasts was studied. The gene expression analysis revealed that the extract increases cell proliferation in the cells exposed to UVA irradiation and concomitantly modulates the expression of genes related to the aging process in keratinocytes (KLK7, OCLN, GBA1) and fibroblasts (SIRT2, FOXO3, COL3A1) under the same conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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12 pages, 2521 KiB  
Article
Food Supplements for Skin Health: In Vitro Efficacy of a Combination of Rhodiola rosea, Tribulus terrestris, Moringa oleifera and Undaria pinnatifida on UV-Induced Damage
by Alessia Paganelli, Alessandra Pisciotta, Giulia Bertani, Rosanna Di Tinco, Nadia Tagliaferri, Giulia Orlandi, Paola Azzoni and Laura Bertoni
Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030083 - 19 May 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3582
Abstract
An increasing number of people seek treatment for aging-related conditions. Plant-derived nutraceuticals are currently of great interest in the setting of dermo-cosmetic studies for their preventive role in photoaging. We conducted an in vitro study on the possible preventive properties against photoaging of [...] Read more.
An increasing number of people seek treatment for aging-related conditions. Plant-derived nutraceuticals are currently of great interest in the setting of dermo-cosmetic studies for their preventive role in photoaging. We conducted an in vitro study on the possible preventive properties against photoaging of a commercially available product (Venerinase®). A mixture of Rhodiola rosea, Tribulus terrestris, Moringa oleifera, Undaria pinnatifida, folic acid and vitamin B12 (Venerinase®) was tested for its potential anti-aging effects on the skin in vitro. Conventional histology, immunofluorescence and real time PCR were employed in the research protocol. The tested product was proven to prevent UV-induced morphological changes both in keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Moreover, senescence-related and proinflammatory pathways commonly triggered by UV exposure were demonstrated to be inhibited by Venerinase® pretreatment. Our results support the potential clinical benefits of oral supplements for the treatment and/or prevention of cutaneous photodamage. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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21 pages, 4788 KiB  
Article
Chlorogenic Acid, a Component of Oenanthe javanica (Blume) DC., Attenuates Oxidative Damage and Prostaglandin E2 Production Due to Particulate Matter 10 in HaCaT Keratinocytes
by In Ah Bae, Jae Won Ha and Yong Chool Boo
Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020060 - 6 Apr 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2687
Abstract
Oenanthe javanica (OJ) is a perennial herb that grows wildly or is cultivated in Asia, and it is used as food or in traditional medicine. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of OJ-derived materials have been extensively explored previously, but their effects on the [...] Read more.
Oenanthe javanica (OJ) is a perennial herb that grows wildly or is cultivated in Asia, and it is used as food or in traditional medicine. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of OJ-derived materials have been extensively explored previously, but their effects on the cytotoxicity of air pollution are currently unknown. Therefore, the present study aimed to evaluate the effect of the hot water extract of OJ on atmospheric particulate matter 10 (PM10)-induced cytotoxicity and oxidative damage in human HaCaT keratinocytes, and to identify its active ingredient and mechanism of action. When the hot water extract of OJ was divided into methylene chloride, ethyl acetate (EA), n-butanol (BA), and water fractions, caffeic acid was enriched in the EA fraction and chlorogenic acid was enriched in the BA fraction. PM10 increased reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, and inflammatory prostaglandin (PG) E2 production in cells. The BA fraction reduced the PM10-induced ROS production in cells more effectively than the total extract and other solvent fractions. Chlorogenic acid was more effective in reducing ROS levels than caffeic acid and N-acetyl cysteine (NAC). Chlorogenic acid attenuated the increase in lipid peroxidation and the PG E2 production of cells due to PM10 exposure. Of the genes involved in PG E2 production, phospholipase A2 group IVA (PLA2G4A), Prostaglandin-endoperoxide synthase 1 (PTGS1), and 2 (PTGS2) were transcriptionally up-regulated by PM10, whereas phospholipase A2 group IIA (PLA2G2A) was down-regulated and prostaglandin E synthetase 1 (PTGES1) and 2 (PTGES2) were a little altered. The PM10-induced increase in PLA2G4A mRNA was alleviated by chlorogenic acid and NAC. Accordingly, PM10 increased the expression levels of cytosolic phospholipase A2 (cPLA2) protein and its phosphorylated form, which were attenuated by chlorogenic acid and NAC. Thus, chlorogenic acid may attenuate the PM10-induced PG E2 production through the suppression of PLA2G4A mRNA and cPLA2 protein expressions. This study suggests that chlorogenic acid contained in OJ extract may help alleviate the oxidative damage to and inflammatory responses of the skin cells due to exposure to air pollutants. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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Review

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14 pages, 1684 KiB  
Review
Bioactives in Nutricosmetics: A Focus on Caffeine from Tea to Coffee
by Cristina Blanco-Llamero, Hugo F. Macário, Beatriz N. Guedes, Faezeh Fathi, Maria Beatriz P. P. Oliveira and Eliana B. Souto
Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 149; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050149 - 28 Aug 2024
Viewed by 2134
Abstract
Known for its stimulating effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, caffeine has proven remarkable versatile properties. It can be used in a wide range of different products, from anti-aging cosmetics to the pharmaceutical treatment of hair loss. Caffeine is known for its [...] Read more.
Known for its stimulating effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, caffeine has proven remarkable versatile properties. It can be used in a wide range of different products, from anti-aging cosmetics to the pharmaceutical treatment of hair loss. Caffeine is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly found in moisturising creams recommended as anti-aging or anti-cellulite and also for the treatment of different skin disorders, including androgenic alopecia. This bioactive is also described to be able to enhance the sunscreen scattering effect of well-known ultraviolet (UV) blockers. One of the major challenges remains its penetration capacity into deeper skin layers, which may be achieved by the use of nanosized delivery systems, yet without the risk of transdermal delivery. In this review, we discuss the nutraceutical value of caffeine in cosmetic products, so-called nutricosmetics, which grants this bioactive several advantages in several formulations, in comparison to other potential bioactives of nutricosmetic value. Furthermore, the disclosed effects of bioactives commonly found in coffee, tea, and their by-products are reviewed and discussed. The discussion concludes by highlighting the significant benefits of caffeine in the treatment of skin disorders and its potential to enhance and promote skin health. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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21 pages, 373 KiB  
Review
The Scenario of Clays and Clay Minerals Use in Cosmetics/Dermocosmetics
by Fernanda Daud Sarruf, Vecxi Judith Pereda Contreras, Renata Miliani Martinez, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco and André Rolim Baby
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 7; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010007 - 5 Jan 2024
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 8164
Abstract
The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, [...] Read more.
The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, compositions, usages as active compounds and cosmetic ingredients/starting materials, and observations about formulation techniques. From this review, we observed that although much scientific and specialized literature has reported the characterization of clays, only some involved efficacy tests when incorporated into cosmetic products, mainly concerning haircare applications. Our review could be considered and encouraged in the coming years to provide scientific and technical information for the cosmetic industry regarding the multifunctional use of clays and clay minerals. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Compounds From Natural Resources Against Skin Aging)
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