Cosmetics, Volume 11, Issue 1 (February 2024) – 30 articles

Background: Skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and air pollution, and recent works have demonstrated that these factors have additive effects in the disturbance of skin homeostasis. Nuclear-factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) appear to be appropriate targets in the management of combined environmental stressors. The protective effects of silymarin (SM), an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory complex of flavonoids, were evaluated. Methods: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and interleukin 1-alpha (IL-1a) were quantified in UV+urban-dust-stressed reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) treated with SM. A gene expression study was conducted on targets related to AHR and Nrf2. SM agonistic activity on cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2R) was evaluated on mast cells. The clinical study quantified the performance of SM and cannabidiol (CBD) in skin exposed to solar radiation and air pollution. Results: SM decreased morphological alterations, ROS, and IL-1a in UV+urban-dust-stressed RHE. AHR- and Nrf2-related genes were upregulated, which control the antioxidant effector and barrier function. Interleukin 8 gene expression was decreased. The clinical study confirmed SM improved the homogeneity and perceived well-being of urban skins exposed to UV, outperforming CBD. SM activated CB2R and the release of β-endorphin from mast cells. Conclusions: SM provides protection of skin from oxidative stress and inflammation caused by two major factors of exposome and appears mediated by AHR-Nrf2. SM activation of CB2R is opening a new understanding of SM’s anti-inflammatory properties. Full article

Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts of M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis. In addition, the best extract was selected for the development of nanoemulsions. M. pruriens var. utilis had the highest total phenolic and total flavonoid contents. It had good antioxidant activity (the IC₅₀ of DPPH was 4.87 µg/mL, the FRAP value was 1.63 mg of FeSO₄/mg of extract, and the percentage of lipid peroxidation was 80.19%) and anti-aging activity (the percentages of inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were 26.41%, 51.16%, and 22.78%, respectively). The occlusive factor was 46.12 ± 1.72. Therefore, M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract was selected for the preparation of nanoemulsions. The results showed that the size, PDI, and zeta potential of nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract at day 30 did not significantly differ from those at day 0. In addition, the %EE was 63.46%. A study of skin permeation showed that the retention in the membrane after six hours of skin permeation study was 44.19%. Therefore, nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract have good potential for further use in cosmetic applications. Full article

The pursuit of youth and attractiveness is a fundamental desire in contemporary society. For many individuals, the appearance of visible signs of aging, such as skin laxity, gravitational changes in facial and neck soft tissues, and loss of harmonious proportions, can be psychologically distressing. The choice of effective methods for addressing these changes depends on their specific characteristics, the patient’s anatomical features, and the type of facial aging. The introduction of 3D imaging to determine the hyoid bone level, the volume of soft tissue structures in the cervico-mental area, ptosis of subplatysmal structures, and the volume of submandibular glands, in addition to ultrasound study of the submental projection at the preoperative stage, are key for making the best decisions regarding preoperative planning. This case report aims to illustrate how modern imaging techniques are a fundamental part of the preoperative assessment of the mid and lower third of the face to ensure the most favorable aesthetic outcomes for each patient. Full article

Burns account for more than 265,000 deaths per year in the world, mainly associated with infections. Therefore, the shorter the healing time, the better the prognosis. Based on this, the objective of the present study was to investigate the effect of an ointment based on Brassica oleracea var. capitata extract in the third-degree healing process. Twenty-five male Wistar rats (335 ± 16 g, three months of life) were individualized in cages with food and water ad libitum. After anesthesia, two circular third-degree burn wounds (12 mm in diameter) were made on the animals, which were randomly separated into five treatments (n = 5/group), i.e., SAL: saline solution 0.9%; OV: ointment vehicle; SS: silver sulfadiazine 1%; PB1: 10% B. oleracea extract; and PB2: 20% B. oleracea extract. The animals were treated with the ointment daily for eight days. Every four days, the area and the wound contraction index were evaluated. Tissue samples were taken for histopathological analysis (cellularity, blood vessels, and extracellular matrix components) and analysis of oxidative/nitrosative status (antioxidant enzymes, lipid, and protein oxidation markers, as well as nitric oxide (NO) and hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)). The ointment based on B. oleracea var. capitata at 10 and 20% concentrations increased the number of cells, blood vessels, and fibrous components of the extracellular matrix and the activity of antioxidant enzymes, promoting a fast and efficient cutaneous repair in third-degree burn wounds. Full article

We previously found that fermented extract of Dendrobium officinale using Lactobacillus plantarum GT-17F has a stronger antioxidant effect, especially in free radical scavenging. The result provided a basis for further studies to evaluate the effectiveness of fermented D. officinale in preventing UV-mediated damage and photoaging in humans. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to assess the anti-aging efficacy of D. officinale fermented with GT-17F strain in a clinical trial, which was conducted as a double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized parallel-group comparative study with 99 volunteers with visible wrinkles. During the study, subjects were instructed to apply one pump of each essence, which contains fermented, unfermented, or no D. officinale extract, evenly to their face, both in the morning and evening, following their cleansing routine. At 28 days post-treatment, compared to baseline, subjects in the fermented extract group demonstrated significant improvements in stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, skin glossiness, wrinkle area and ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio. In contrast, the unfermented extract group showed a significant difference only in improving erythema index levels in the skin. This comprehensive study has rigorously investigated the anti-aging effects of D. officinale and its fermented version on human skin, highlighting a notable contribution to dermatological research. Full article

Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and niacinamide (Niac) are commonly used alone or in combination with other molecules in the treatment of acne. BPO and Niac in the same product could exert complementary and synergistic effects improving efficacy in acne. Furthermore, Niac could reduce some side effects of BPO, such as skin irritation and erythema. A film-forming cream product containing BPO 4% and Niac 4%, vehiculated in a mixture of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and perfluoropolyether (PFPE) has been recently developed (B-N cream). A 28-day, assessor-blinded pilot trial was conducted to evaluate the clinical efficacy, skin tolerability, sebum production, skin redness, and skin microbiome modulation of B-N cream in subjects with mild to moderate acne of the face. Twenty-two adult men and women with mild-to-moderate acne of the face participated in this trial, after their written informed consent. B-N cream was applied once daily in the evening. The use of B-N cream was associated with a statistically significant decrease in acne lesions after treatment in comparison with baseline (non-inflammatory lesions: −40%; inflammatory lesions: −43% and total lesions: −41%). The use of the cream was not associated with a skin barrier function alteration. The skin redness score (−11%) and the sebum production (−42%) were significantly reduced after treatment. The use of B-N cream determined a reduction in the relative abundance of the Actinobacteria phylum (Corynebacterium and Propionibacterium, from 56% to 47%) and a significant increase in the abundance of Bacteroidetes phylum (from 3% to 5.2%). In addition, the product was well tolerated. In conclusion, this film-forming, medical device cream was effective in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne, reducing acne lesions and sebum production without altering skin barrier function, offering good skin tolerability. Furthermore, this product exerts positive skin microbiome modulation effects. Full article

Boesenbergia rotunda has been used as an antiobesity agent by suppressing adipogenesis. This study aimed to investigate the biological activity of B. rotunda on preadipocyte cells and to evaluate the effectiveness and safety of using B. rotunda extract in a capsaicin-loaded body-firming formulation. The antiadipogenesis of B. rotunda ethanolic extract was evaluated in 3T3-L1 preadipocyte cells. After the application of the B. rotunda extract-loaded body-firming formulation on the skin of volunteers for 28 d, thigh circumference, melanin index, and skin erythema were investigated. The results showed that the ethanolic extract of B. rotunda was not toxic toward 3T3-L1 cells at concentrations lower than 20 µg/mL, with antiadipogenesis of the B. rotunda extract occurring at a concentration of 1 µg/mL. The B. rotunda extract containing panduratin A was mixed with capsaicin body-firming products and successfully permeated into and through the skin. Applying this formulation to the thighs of the volunteers two times a day for 21 days led to a significant reduction in thigh circumference and melanin index. A slight elevation in skin erythema was observed, but there was no significant increase in redness or pain. In conclusion, the B. rotunda extract contained bioactive compounds that inhibited antiadipogenesis. The formulations containing B. rotunda extract and capsaicin showed potential as effective body-firming products. Full article

Catechins are a type of flavonoid known for their beneficial functions as antioxidants and antibacterials. Recent research indicates the antioxidant potential of catechins on the skin. Catechin and epigallocatechin are reported to have significant potential in preventing ageing. Epigallocatechin gallate, gallocatechin gallate, and epigallocatechin can inhibit hyperpigmentation processes. Additionally, catechins exhibit potential in UV protection and inflammation inhibition in acne. Consequently, catechins are now being used in the cosmetics industry, with formulations containing catechins as the active ingredient developed to produce various products such as soap, sunscreen, creams, etc. Herein, this paper reviews the antioxidant potential of catechins for use in cosmetic formulations and the current status of clinical trials of catechins in cosmetics. Full article

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological disorder that impacts the quality of life for millions of people around the world. The multifactorial nature of this disorder requires innovative and effective treatment strategies. Over time, there has been a growing interest regarding the use of natural topical therapies, with cannabinoids emerging as a promising group of compounds for investigation. In the context of acne treatment, cannabinoids are of particular interest due to their anti-acne properties, namely, lipostatic, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and antimicrobial activities. Among these bioactive compounds, cannabidiol stands out as a notable derivative, exhibiting a promising spectrum of therapeutic actions. Pre-clinical and clinical studies have proven its ability to modulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and inhibit bacterial proliferation—all of which are critical components in the pathogenesis of this dermatosis. This review provides a comprehensive overview of cannabinoids’ potential as a novel and holistic approach to acne vulgaris treatment and summarizes recent developments in this area. Full article

Kojic acid (KA) has emerged as a prominent tyrosinase inhibitor with considerable potential in cosmetic applications; however, its susceptibility to instability during storage poses a challenge to its widespread use. This review explores the advancements in addressing this limitation through the development of various KA derivatives, focusing on the modification of the C-7 hydroxyl group. Strategies such as esterification, hydroxy-phenyl ether formation, glycosylation, and incorporation into amino acid or tripeptide derivatives have been employed to enhance stability and efficacy. Among these derivatives, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KDP), a palmitic ester derivative of KA, stands out for its notable improvements in stability, permeability, and low toxicity. Recent developments indicate a growing utilization of KDP in cosmetic formulations, with over 132 available products on the market, encompassing various formulations. Formulations based on nanotechnology, which incorporate KDP, have been provided, including nanosomes, nanocreams, multiple emulsions, liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), ethosomes, and nanoemulsions. Additionally, three patents and seven advanced system deliveries of KDP further underscore its significance. Despite its increasing prevalence, the literature on KDP remains limited. This review aims to bridge this gap by providing insights into the synthesis process, physicochemical properties, pharmaceutical preparation, diverse applications of KDP in cosmetic products, and recent nanotechnology formulations of KDP. This review paper seeks to explore the recent developments in the use of KDP in cosmetics. The goal is to enhance stability, permeability, and reduce the toxicity of KA, with the intention of promoting future research in this promising sector. Full article

The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous features and physiologies, the possibilities in using bio-based, biodegradable and biocompatible materials was explored by investigating the correlations between their structures and morphologies with respect to the characteristics of the skin extracellular matrix (ECM). Regarding the new smart type of biodegradable tissues, their possible composition was reviewed in relation to the skin aging process and to the current contest for novel, innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals that consider the “beauty from within” concept. The barriers to the development of these new tissues were mainly identified due the necessity in defining the claim regarding green products. Moreover, the market growth data regarding these novel products were highlighted to support the idea that the diffusion of smart tissue-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals is an opportunity for new sustainable industrial chains in the development of bioeconomies. Full article

Gamma−aminobutyric acid (GABA) presents several potential skin benefits, but its water−soluble nature poses challenges for effectively penetrating the skin to produce its effects. This research aimed to improve GABA’s skin penetration and availability by employing a nanoemulsion formulation, both with and without the aid of the penetration enhancer 1,8−cineole. Using a high−pressure homogenizer, an oil−in−water nanoemulsion was created, and its size and distribution were analyzed. The stability of these nanoemulsions was tested under various conditions, revealing their resilience over six months, even at elevated temperatures of 40 °C. In vitro tests on pig skin showed that GABA−loaded nanoemulsions, particularly those without the enhancer, demonstrated a nearly 2.89−fold increase in skin permeation compared to the solution form. Moreover, the addition of the enhancer amplified this effect, resulting in over a 3.37−fold increase in skin permeation compared to the solution. These results emphasize the potential of nanoemulsion formulations as effective tools for enhancing GABA’s skin permeation and availability, potentially expanding its use in dermatological applications. Further exploration and research are necessary to fully exploit GABA’s capabilities in supporting skin health and wellness. Full article

Nanofiber-based materials, due to their unique properties, are of remarkable interest across multiple fields of applications, including cosmetics. Collagen, a primary structural protein in human skin, is well-regarded for its critical role in maintaining skin health, elasticity, and enhancing skin regeneration. This study reports the characterization, safety, and efficacy evaluation of DermaLayr™, a novel collagen-based nanofiber platform, for skincare application. The collagen nanofibers were developed using a sonic electrospinning technique, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analyses indicated that the nanofibers were uniform with average fiber diameters ranging from 250 to 300 nm. The skin permeation studies on EpiDerm™ indicated that applying the test products resulted in around 5–25% higher collagen permeation into the epidermis, and 16–20% higher collagen permeation into the dermis when compared to the non-treated sample. Additionally, the safety of the developed nanofibers was assessed in vitro and in vivo and both the studies indicated their non-toxic and non-irritant properties. Moreover, clinical trials on human subjects further substantiated the clinical efficacy of DermaLayr™ by demonstrating significant improvement in several skin parameters such as hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health. In summary, the findings of this study emphasize the huge potential of DermaLayr™ nanofiber products for their safe application in cosmetics and skin therapeutics. Full article

The escalating consumer demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients poses distinct challenges, particularly concerning their stability within the final formulation. Although natural resources offer a pool of antioxidant molecules with diverse structures and polarities, achieving stabilization combined with a comprehensive antioxidant profile often proves incompatible with practical preformulation considerations. Notably, Calendula, which is rich in both polar (glycosylated flavonoids) and nonpolar (carotenoids) antioxidants, is a standout candidate. Nevertheless, the market lacks an ingredient embodying this diversity, primarily due to the limited polarity range of available usable solvents. Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) emerge as a promising solution. This study explores NaDES technology with the goal of developing a unique Calendula extract enriched in both polarities of antioxidants, a composition that is unattainable with traditional solvents. A screening of 12 NaDESs with varying polarities highlighted a NaDES based on betaine and glycerol as particularly effective, outperforming ethanol. Leveraging response surface methodology, an optimal mechanical stirring procedure for extraction was identified. The resulting extract showed a total flavonoid content of 45.42 ± 0.85 mg eq rutin/g of biomass and a total carotenoid content of 383.54 ± 4.73 µg/g biomass. It was then incorporated into a sustainable cream (1% and 10%wt) using an innovative mixing technology. The resulting creams demonstrated stability over 90 days, with no significant deviations in pH or rheological properties compared to the control, and a droplet size that was inferior to 10 µm. This study lays the foundation for pioneering natural antioxidant cocktail-loaded ingredients that are suitable for eco-friendly cosmetic formulations, substantiating the viability of integrating environmentally friendly ingredient-based solvents. Full article

Compounding is currently an integral part of pharmacy practice, and it is essential to the provision of healthcare. Compounding is an important therapeutic option in all areas of medicine, with relevance to dermatological treatments. Compounding topical medicines can be time-consuming and requires specialized equipment. In this regard, the use of proprietary topical liquid and semisolid vehicles/bases can be a good alternative and a more sustainable approach. This review provides an overview of existing proprietary vehicles/bases, summarizing their properties and applications and identifying existing commercial and information gaps. Creams emerge as the foremost topical base, followed by gels and ointments. Besides acting locally on the skin, almost a third of these proprietary bases/vehicles are also suitable for the transdermal application of APIs. Information regarding composition and compatibilities/incompatibilities with APIs is not always provided by the manufacturer, constraining a complete analysis of all proprietary topical bases/vehicles considered. The collection and organization of this information are important not only for pharmacy practice and physician prescription, helping to select the best vehicles/bases, but also for the industry to identify opportunities for innovation. Full article

Stretch marks are far from exclusively appearing on pregnant women and appear whenever the body experiences rapid growth. Collagen fibres are altered in the dermis, which is associated with a loss of orientation, and the elastic network is disrupted, leading to a fibrotic organisation. This results in epidermal tearing that produces skin lesions. Centella asiatica (CAST) is a well-known medicinal plant rich in active triterpenic molecules and traditionally used to treat wounds and help skin repair. The aim of this study was to evaluate CAST extract as a natural way to solve stretch mark concerns and understand its mechanism of action. Fibroblast proliferation based on scratch assay model and their gene expression by RT-qPCR was first evaluated. At the ex vivo level, elastin fibres were quantified by immunofluorescence. The orientation of the collagen fibres and their occupation of the dermis were analysed after Sirius red staining and specific software analysis. We showed that CAST stimulated fibroblast proliferation and reduced extracellular matrix degradation and fibrosis. On a stretch-marked skin explant, CAST increased the occupation of collagen fibres and elastin production. Based on the mechanisms behind the formation of stretch marks, CAST restored the dermis network by optimising fibre organisation for a visible skin remodelling effect. Full article

Background: Laser-assisted drug delivery is a promising strategy that enhances topical treatment by increasing cutaneous permeation and reducing side effects. In cosmetic settings, the efficacy and safety profiles of a treatment must meet the need of a painless procedure with fast recovery. In this context, Q-switched laser appears promising as it can open cutaneous pores without creating a carbonisation barrier. Methods: A split-face study on patients presenting for cosmetic procedures at IDI-IRCCS, Rome (30 September–18 October 2023), was conducted. Pan-facial Q-Switched laser was followed by a topical biostimulator applied on half of the face. Post-procedure local reactions were recorded together with patients’ perceptions. Cutaneous elasticity and hydration were assessed at baseline and three-week follow-up. The Skindex17 questionnaire evaluated the procedure’s impact on patients’ life quality. Also, participants and physicians expressed satisfaction with the treatment. Results: The procedure was well tolerated by patients; local reactions include transitory erythema, superficial bleeding, and oedema, none of which had an impact on daily life. An improvement in skin quality was documented objectively and subjectively by patients and physicians. Conclusion: Q-switched lasers emerge as promising devices for drug delivery, especially for cosmetic reasons. Indeed, the low risk of local reactions together with a remarkable increase in cutaneous permeation make this a suitable strategy for cosmetic procedures. Full article

Measuring skin hydration is important for dermatology research, cosmetic practice, and daily skincare; it provides valuable insight into skin assessment and predicts treatment outcomes. This study investigated the level of skin hydration on various parts of the body in female university students, utilizing corneometry for measurement. Demographic, water intake, skincare, and exercise habit data were collected. The highest hydration levels were on the face (n = 40), followed by cleavage skin (n = 42), neck skin (n = 48), and leg skin (n = 42). Differences were observed between the chin and forehead (106.06 ± 21.06 vs. 91.20 ± 26.68; p = 0.001) and the chin and cheek (106.06 ± 21.06 vs. 92.00 ± 27.63; p > 0.001). The differences in the hydration measurement results on cleavage were not significant (right clavicle 55.1 ± 12.93; left clavicle 51.84 ± 10.00; sternum 53.55 ± 16.3; p = 0.379). On the neck, the middle point exhibited the highest hydration (left 41.7 ± 11.3; middle 49.2 ± 12; right 47.2 ± 8.2; p > 0.001). The skin on the thigh was significantly drier than that on the shank (31.09 ± 6.89 vs. 33.54 ± 6.28; p = 0.008). Water consumption was positively associated with skin hydration and the amount of physical activity. We conclude that every skin area is characterized by different levels of hydration. Water intake and physical activity contribute to improved skin hydration. Full article

The purpose of this paper is to review the specialized literature to highlight the effects produced by energy drinks in terms of skin health. To carry out this review, we consulted previous articles with descriptive cross-sectional designs, case series, and individual case reports published between 2000 and 2023. Therefore, while caffeine acute consumption among adults can have beneficial effects, in children, it can cause health problems like overnight breaks, headaches, and dulled cognition since their organs are still developing and their endocrine system is not yet stable. Despite the antioxidant and neuroprotective effects of caffeine from energy drinks, their excessive consumption among adolescents can cause disorders like high systolic blood pressure, agitation, nausea, anxiety, osteoporosis, heart palpitations, poor sleep quality, and stomach ulcers. Among athletes, taurine supplementation has been proven to improve exercise capacity in cold weather conditions. Also, vigilance, attention, and reaction time were all improved by caffeine consumption. Caffeine administration in low doses caused a risk of cardiovascular disease. It was effective in treating migraines in children, but raised systolic blood pressure, and contributed to skin healing in adolescents. On the other side, taurine prevents obesity among children, causes positive effects on oxidative stress and inflammation in adolescents, helps shield the skin from damaging oxidative stress among students, and impacts exercise capacity in athletes. Significant increases in serum levels of uric acid, creatinine, BUN, ALT, and ALP caused by chronic intake of EDs indicated different degrees of injury to the kidneys and liver. Furthermore, the effects on the cardiovascular system could be worse if taurine and caffeine are combined. Caffeine alone does not significantly decrease sleep as much as a taurine/high caffeine ratio. On the other hand, a low ratio does. Full article

Rosacea is a common chronic inflammatory skin disorder that mainly affects the central face. It is primarily characterized by recurrent episodes of flushing, persistent erythema, inflammatory papules, telangiectasias, phymatous changes, and ocular symptoms. Its pathogenesis is complex and still not completely understood. It encompasses innate and adaptive immune system dysregulation, neurovascular dysfunction, and genetic and environmental factors. To date, four subtypes of rosacea have been identified, based on the predominant clinical features: erythemato-teleangiectatic, papulopustular, pyhomatous, and ocular rosacea. New insights into this condition have led to several pharmacological treatments, including topical medications, spanning from the conventional azelaic acid, metronidazole, benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin, and erythromycin to new ones including not only brimonidine, oxymetazoline, ivermectine, and minocycline but also systemic drugs such as oral antibiotics, isotretinoin, non-selective β-blockers or α2-adrenergic agonists, and laser- or light-based therapies, together with new therapeutic approaches. The aim of this study was to review the current literature on the pathophysiology of rosacea and to provide an overview of therapeutic approaches that specifically address each clinical subtype. Full article

Background: People lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day and generate new ones from stem cells in hair follicles, but in those suffering from baldness, the stem cells remain inactive and are unable to regenerate new hair. Although 9% of hair follicles remain in telogen at any time, a variety of factors, including growth factors and cytokines, promote the transition from telogen to anagen and the subsequent stimulation of hair growth. Methods: We compared in vitro, on cultures of human hair follicles, the effect on hair growth and regeneration of the dermal papilla of plant-derived nanovesicles, exosomes from cord blood stem cells and bovine colostrum, a mixture of growth factors and cytokines purified from bovine colostrum, called GF20, and a new compound called HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX obtained by adding exosomes isolated from colostrum to GF20. Results: The analyses demonstrated a significant increase in the growth of the bulb and the regeneration of the dermal papilla in the samples treated with HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX compared to the other elements tested. Conclusions: In this research, we propose a possible new treatment that could help significantly slow down hair loss and encourage new hair growth: HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX. Full article

Menopause marks the end of a woman’s reproductive life. It is well-known that skin aging is accelerated during this period, as declining estrogen detrimentally impacts the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM) which is the provider of strength and elasticity. Menopause also affects scalp hair, reducing hair diameter and leading to shorter hair growth. Objective: To evaluate the main dermatological complaints of Brazilian women during this period, comparing the compatibility of these complaints with similar studies that evaluated skin health at menopause. Methods: This study interviewed 463 postmenopausal women between 42 and 83 years old through a public electronic questionnaire in the SurveyMonkey app about their perception of the changes noticed in their hair and skin after menopause. All statistical analyses were performed in R v. 3.6.1. Results with p-values < 0.05 were considered significant. Results: Dermatological health in menopausal women, especially the quality of the skin, nails and hair may deteriorate with estrogen deficits. As life expectancy increases and hormone replacement therapy (HRT) becomes more common, a greater understanding of their dermatological effects in menopause is needed. Conclusions: Menopause strongly impacts skin quality and worsens women’s self-esteem and quality of life. There is still a lack of knowledge about HRT and specific treatments for improving skin, hair and nails. Full article

There has been a significant increase in the use of botanical resources for the formulation of topical products designed for medicinal and cosmetic applications. Sanguisorba minor Scop., a botanical species, exhibits a variety of properties and has significant potential for applications in the field of cosmetics. The aim of this study was to formulate topical preparations, incorporating an extract derived from the plant S. minor Scop. comprising a combination of roots, leaves, and flowers. In the initial phase, a total of seven combinations were prepared using extracts derived from the roots, leaves, and flowers of S. minor Scop. (v/v/v). These combinations were subsequently subjected to evaluation for their antioxidant capacity using four distinct methods: 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), and Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC). An extract of plant organs in a ratio of 1:2:1 (v/v/v), which had a strong antioxidant capacity and demonstrated synergistic effects according to the DPPH, TEAC, and CUPRAC assays (with values of 1.58 ± 0.1, 1.18 ± 0.09, and 1.07 ± 0.07, respectively), was selected for inclusion in three dermato-cosmetic products (hydrogel, emulgel, and cream). All the prepared preparations were evaluated in terms of topical formulation attributes and organoleptic characteristics. The testing of dermato-cosmetic products included assessments of their topical formulation properties and organoleptic characteristics. The hydrogel, emulgel, and cream exhibited varying degrees of stretchability. In addition, a study was carried out to assess the in vitro release of polyphenols from the cosmetic formulations using a Franz diffusion cell system. The results showed that the emulgel containing the extract of S. minor Scop. had the highest and most significant release of polyphenols, with a release rate of 84.39 ± 1.01%. This was followed by the hydrogel and cream, which had release percentages of 80.52 ± 0.89 and 75.88 ± 0.88, respectively, over an 8 h period. Thus, for the first time in the literature, a topical cosmetic product with high antioxidant potential containing S. minor Scop. extract was developed and optimized. Full article

The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, compositions, usages as active compounds and cosmetic ingredients/starting materials, and observations about formulation techniques. From this review, we observed that although much scientific and specialized literature has reported the characterization of clays, only some involved efficacy tests when incorporated into cosmetic products, mainly concerning haircare applications. Our review could be considered and encouraged in the coming years to provide scientific and technical information for the cosmetic industry regarding the multifunctional use of clays and clay minerals. Full article

The introduction of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnOn) in sunscreens solved the issue of poor spreadability of these formulations, which often left a white film on the skin. However, safety concerns have arisen regarding the topical application of ZnOn. Some studies employed commercial sunscreens to address the safety issues of the topical application of ZnOn; however, commercial formulations are often complex and contain a wide range of ingredients that could attenuate the potential damage caused by the ZnOn. Therefore, in this study we aimed to develop a simple stable formulation containing 20% of coated and uncoated ZnOn, characterize the formulations and the nanoparticles, and assess the skin penetration in a Franz diffusion cell. The Feret’s diameter for the uncoated and coated ZnOn was 137 nm and 134 nm, respectively. For the uncoated ZnOn the hydrodynamic size in water was 368 nm and for the coated ZnOn, the average hydrodynamic size in ethyl acetate was 135 nm. The incorporation of ZnOn led to formulations more consistent and easier to spread, as suggested by the lower work of shear and higher values of firmness, cohesiveness, consistency and index of viscosity compared with the vehicle. The stability assessment at 45 °C suggested that the formulations containing the ZnOn were stable for 30 days and the vehicle was stable for 90 days. The assessment of the skin penetration by reflectance confocal laser microscopy indicated that the ZnOn did not permeate into the deepest layers of the skin, but accumulated on the skin furrows, hair and hair follicles. Full article

(1) Background: Skin barrier function resides mostly in the stratum corneum, which consists of a protein component, the corneocyte (bricks), which provides a scaffold for the second component, the extracellular matrix, consisting of multilayers of lipids (mortar). These two components closely interact and this could be the basis for the differences in the biophysical properties of the skin between anatomical regions. So, the aim of this study was to compare skin microstructural properties between body sites. (2) Methods: A comparative study was conducted that included healthy individuals without previous skin diseases. Skin barrier function parameters and microtopography parameters (smoothness, roughness, desquamation, wrinkles, surface, volume, contrast, variance, homogeneity, anisotropy, total cell count, flaking index, skin surface hardness, brightness, deformability and friction) were measured on the forearm, cheek and palm. (3) Results: 44 participants were included in this study, with a mean age of 38.8 ± 15.0 years. Significant differences were found between body sites for 14 of the 15 parameters evaluated. Smoothness was higher on the forearm than on the cheek and palm (240.02 Sems vs. 348.16 vs. 408.19 Sems, p < 0.05). Hardness was higher on the palm than on the forearm and cheek (13.22 AU vs. 9.44 AU vs. 7.94 AU, p < 0.05). Moreover, we observed that sociodemographic characteristics such as age, sex, tobacco and/or alcohol use, influenced the parameters evaluated. (4) Conclusions: The differences in skin barrier function and microtopography between anatomical regions reflects the different structure of skin in each body part and could help to understand the influence of the sociodemographic characteristics on theses parameters. This information could be useful for comparison with pathological skin characteristics and for targeting new treatments. Full article

One of the most notable signs of an aging face is the nasolabial folds (NLFs), which often diminish emotional well-being and self-confidence. To address this concern, many people seek solutions to improve their appearance, often turning to fillers. The ULTRACOL100 device, a tissue restoration material, has been previously investigated and shown to exhibit significant efficacy in both in vitro and in vivo studies. In this research, we aim to explore the safety and effectiveness of the clinical trial of ULTRACOL100 in improving the skin in the NLF area over an 8-week observation period. Male and Female adults with nasolabial folds received two injections of ULTRACOL100, with a 4-week interval between treatments, on one side of their faces. On the other side, they received control materials (REJURAN^®, JUVELOOK^®, or HYRONT^®). The assessment of skin improvement in the nasolabial fold area for each subject took place before and four weeks after each application. Various skin parameters, such as roughness, elasticity, moisture, transparency, trans-epidermal water loss, tone, radiance, skin pore size, and skin density, were measured to evaluate the outcomes. The application of the ULTRACOL100 device significantly reduced the skin roughness, the trans-epidermal water loss, and the skin pore size and increased the skin’s elasticity and internal elasticity, as well as the skin’s moisture, transparency, skin tone, radiance, and density. This study comprehensively investigates the effectiveness and safety of the ULTRACOL100 device, comparing it with three commercial products (REJURAN^®, JUVELOOK^®, and HYRONT^®). The ULTRACOL100 device showed comparable performance in improving the appearance of the NLF area among this study subjects. Full article

This original article presents the findings of a comprehensive case series, shedding light on the efficacy of diverse treatment modalities for managing precancerous and cancerous skin lesions and their remarkable rejuvenation effects on the skin. A particular focus is placed on the promising outcomes achieved through the application of a combination treatment involving 5-Fluorouracil (5-FU) and salicylic acid, which demonstrates enduring and noteworthy results. Furthermore, alternative therapeutic approaches, including 5-FU monotherapy, Methyl aminolevulinate–photodynamic therapy (MAL-PDT), and the combination of Imiquimod therapy with MAL-PDT, exhibit substantial potential for patients seeking non-surgical solutions. These treatments manifest as valuable tools in improving skin texture and mitigating the effects of photodamage. Nevertheless, the intricate interplay between the chosen treatment, the extent of photodamage, and individual patient characteristics, with a particular emphasis on age, necessitates long-term follow-up to gauge treatment outcomes and the likelihood of lesion recurrence. Notably, these treatments are associated with a significant degree of inflammation, igniting curiosity regarding enhanced skin cellular turnover and the potential for a more youthful skin appearance. Our findings accentuate the promise of topical fluorouracil (5-FU) and photodynamic therapy (PDT) in combating photoaging among patients with actinic keratoses. However, a need for further in-depth research is evident to unravel the nuanced relationships between these treatments, the severity of photodamage, and the influence of patient-specific factors. Such comprehensive investigations are instrumental in optimizing patient care and outcomes, offering a holistic approach to managing photodamage within the context of actinic keratoses. This work, when combined with existing literature, provides valuable insights and serves as a catalyst for future research to fully unlock the potential of these treatments, ultimately enhancing the quality of patient care. Full article

Hyperpigmentation, characterized by the excessive accumulation of melanin in the skin, is a common dermatological concern triggered by various factors, including UV radiation exposure. This study investigates the potential of grapevine leaf extracts in treating hyperpigmentation induced by UV radiation, focusing on 11 European and 12 Israeli grapevine varieties. Our research explores the correlations between total polyphenol content (TPC), tyrosinase inhibition, sun protection factor (SPF), and half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of these extracts. Our findings reveal substantial variation in TPC among grapevine varieties’ leaves, with the Israeli varieties showing higher TPC levels than the European ones. Correlation analysis demonstrates a robust link between TPC and SPF, indicating that increased TPC contributes to enhanced sun protection properties. However, TPC alone does not strongly correlate with tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting the importance of specific polyphenols in tyrosinase inhibition. Furthermore, the study identifies specific peaks in the HPLC analysis that correlate with desired activities. In summary, our research highlights the potential of grapevine leaf extracts, especially those from Israeli indigenous varieties, in addressing hyperpigmentation. It emphasizes the importance of specific polyphenols rather than TPC alone in achieving the desired effects. These findings open doors for further investigation into identifying and isolating active compounds from grapevine leaves for skincare applications. Full article

The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower carbon footprint and a higher sustainability profile, incorporating, at the same time, natural or biobased raw materials. These raw materials may present challenges for formulators and analytical scientists due to either an inferior performance when compared to their fossil-derived counterparts or higher costs. This comprehensive review covers a spectrum of analytical methodologies employed in cosmetic formulation, including chromatographic analyses, olfactometry, and electronic nose technology. The characterization of product stability involving assessing parameters such as droplet size, zeta potential, viscosity, analytical centrifugation, surface tension, and interfacial tension are also explored. The discussion in this paper extends to the role of rheology in understanding the molecular structure and behavioral dynamics of cosmetic samples. This review concludes with an overview of colorimetric analysis, a crucial aspect related to consumer perception, followed by a discussion on the challenges and opportunities associated with using meta-analysis methodologies in cosmetics. The formulation of cosmetics employing biobased feedstocks is included, highlighting the evolving landscape of cosmetic science and the integration of sustainable practices. This review stands at the interface between a meta-analysis of cosmetics and product performance, which is attained through a detailed examination of each analytical method. The know-how shared serves as a valuable resource for formulators, researchers, and industry professionals for real-world applications in the analytical field of cosmetics formulation. Full article