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Development of Advanced Materials and Technologies for Leather and By-Products Processing

A special issue of Materials (ISSN 1996-1944). This special issue belongs to the section "Advanced Composites".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (20 August 2023) | Viewed by 16842

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
Leather Research Department, The National Research & Department Institute for Textiles and Leather, 031215 Bucharest, Romania
Interests: leather science and technology; collagen and keratin based by-products; biomaterials; nanomaterials and advanced materials application; natural extracts and products; nonconventional technologies
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Guest Editor
A3 Leather Innovation Center, Escola Politècnica Superior, Departament d’Informàtica i Enginyeria Industrial, Universitat de Lleida (UdL), 25006 Lleida, Spain
Interests: sustainability; circular economy; leather science and technology; biomaterials
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Leather science and engineering is probably the oldest and most durable activity of humankind which has lately recorded impressive progresses in advanced materials, smart technologies, low ecological impact technologies and materials, natural and bio-based materials application, biotechnologies versus chemical technologies, reclaiming of byproducts, life cycle assessment, low carbon footprint technologies, and products with the single purpose of human progress and comfort.

Its natural properties along with the uniqueness of its character due to the smartest of its constituent proteins, collagen, has made this complex material the most difficult to reproduce on the basis of its water vapor permeability and breathability, physiological thermal transfer, mechanical resistance, flexibility, and biodegradability.

Modern leather requires complex knowledge as long as very diverse chemical and natural materials are used for its processing, representing about 50% of hide weight, from the most diverse classes of substances: syntans, vegetable tannins, metal complex salts, fat liquors, dyestuffs and pigments, polymers, and organic and inorganic salts.

Leather processing needs knowledge of physics, chemistry, and biology and, even now, we are still far from a deep understanding of the physical–chemical behavior of this complex matrix of fibrous collagen and interactions of these materials. Modern investigation techniques, such as X-ray, neutron scattering, and proteomics, were used to define a pattern of collagen interaction with tanning materials in its transit from an easily biodegradable material to a stable and durable product. The identification of alternative cross-linking materials for trivalent chromium basic salts represents probably the most important challenge that scientists are facing. The multifunctional properties of leather products are part of modern life, comfort, and life protection demands. Antimicrobial requirements for common and public use, gadget-like functions, and smart responsive surfaces (gas sensor, thermochromic effect, etc.) require innovation to address the many demands. Other areas of research are related to the need for zero-discharge processing, zero hazardous substances, total dissolved substances reduction, sodium chloride, sodium sulfide, ammonium sulphate replacement, free formaldehyde resins, anti-soiling finishing, leather durability and quality improvement, biodegradability assessment and biobased carbon determination as tools for natural leather identification and labeling in a world of nonsustainable materials.

Scientific contributions to progress in leather processing are welcome in the abovementioned and other areas of research as well as for reclaiming leather industry byproducts:

  • Fundamental knowledge of hide and skin collagen;
  • Ecological processing of hides and skins;
  • Advanced materials and bioproducts for leather processing;
  • Reclaiming of leather industry byproducts in a circular economy;
  • Analytical tools for leather knowledge advances;
  • Biotechnologies and biomaterials related to leather processing.

Dr. Carmen Gaidau
Prof. Dr. Anna Bacardit Dalmases
Guest Editors

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Keywords

  • Leather processing
  • New materials and nanomaterials
  • Advanced materials
  • Leather structure
  • Byproduct valorization
  • Biomaterials from hide byproducts
  • New tanning materials and processes
  • New retanning materials and processes
  • Multifunctional properties
  • Antimicrobial properties
  • Smart leathers
  • Polymers for leather processing and covering
  • Leather investigations
  • Biomaterials and bioprocessing of leather
  • Leather biodegradability and durability
  • Unconventional processes 

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Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

18 pages, 15631 KiB  
Article
A Circular Approach to Finished Tanned Leather: Regeneration by Cryogenic Technology
by Omar Salmi, Simone Gelosa, Filippo Rossi and Maurizio Masi
Materials 2023, 16(18), 6166; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma16186166 - 11 Sep 2023
Viewed by 855
Abstract
Finished tanned leather is usually covered by a thin polymeric layer. This layer has the scope to change the morphological aspect of the last leather layer as well as improve the impermeabilization properties. Often, the finished product is refused by the final client, [...] Read more.
Finished tanned leather is usually covered by a thin polymeric layer. This layer has the scope to change the morphological aspect of the last leather layer as well as improve the impermeabilization properties. Often, the finished product is refused by the final client, and tanneries must restore significant quantities of materials. Therefore, it is very important to remove this finished polymeric layer, recover the underneath tanned leather, and predispose it to a new finishing. The bonding between the polymeric film and leather is so strong that, today, only a blade shaving process can perform this separation at the expense of also removing a layer of tanned leather and consequently reducing the leather thickness. Here, a novel separation method was developed based on the significant difference in the dilation properties between the tanned hide and the polymeric film at low temperatures. The use of cryogenic fluids, in particular the direct application of liquid nitrogen, can freeze the polymeric layer below the glass transition temperature, inducing brittle behavior. The result is an easy separation without any alteration of the tanned leather layer; for a demonstration of that, some techniques were used, such as FTIR, SEM, Tensile strength evaluation, DSC, and TGA. By this last analysis, it is possible to check how a decrease of weight to 90% happened for the polymeric layer at about 400 °C against the complete blank at about 600 °C. A similar great distance of results exists in the case of tensile strength, where an average value of 34.5% is the deformation stress for blank samples, against 34.8% for processed samples. Thus, the process here developed allows the reuse of the tanned leather towards a new life in respect of the principles of the circular economy. Full article
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18 pages, 2830 KiB  
Article
Collagen and Keratin Hydrolysates to Delay the Setting of Gypsum Plaster
by Constantin Voinitchi, Carmen Gaidau, Fanica Capatana Tudorie, Mihaela Niculescu, Maria Stanca and Cosmin-Andrei Alexe
Materials 2022, 15(24), 8817; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma15248817 - 9 Dec 2022
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 1660
Abstract
Leather and wool waste represent a high concern due to the low level of valorization and circular economy demands for upcycling of biomass resources. Both biomasses can be easily processed as protein hydrolysates and used as functional additives due to the amphiphilic and [...] Read more.
Leather and wool waste represent a high concern due to the low level of valorization and circular economy demands for upcycling of biomass resources. Both biomasses can be easily processed as protein hydrolysates and used as functional additives due to the amphiphilic and tunable properties of collagen and keratin proteins. The chemical, physical, and structural investigations of collagen and keratin hydrolysate properties showed that the chelating abilities due to carboxylic groups can be exploited for gypsum retardant additives. The molecular weights and amino acid compositions of three different hydrolysates showed only slight influences on the setting time of gypsum; all three proteins delayed the setting time of gypsum between 60 and 120 min, as compared to the commercial plaster with a 30 min setting time. Higher molecular weight and more carboxylic active groups showed slight improvements in the setting time of mortars. The improved properties of keratin hydrolysate as compared to low molecular collagen hydrolysate were attributed to foaming and conductive properties. The mechanism of mortar setting delaying through calcium ions complexation by protein hydrolysates was shown by electric conductivity evolution of plasters with and without protein additives over time, supported by foaming properties, amino acid, and functional groups’ composition. Lower bending strength values for the higher concentration of proteins do not reduce the potential to use the protein hydrolysates as retardant additives in mortar fabrication. Full article
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14 pages, 801 KiB  
Article
Production of Agglomerates, Composite Materials, and Seed Coatings from Tannery Waste as New Methods for Its Management
by Katarzyna Ławińska
Materials 2021, 14(21), 6695; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14216695 - 6 Nov 2021
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 2093
Abstract
This paper presents methods for managing waste produced by the leather industry, including tanning shavings derived from chrome tanning technologies and collagen preparations. Shavings were classified according to their shape (in accordance with Zingg’s shape classification). The content of individual elements was determined, [...] Read more.
This paper presents methods for managing waste produced by the leather industry, including tanning shavings derived from chrome tanning technologies and collagen preparations. Shavings were classified according to their shape (in accordance with Zingg’s shape classification). The content of individual elements was determined, together with the content of volatile organic compounds. Two new products were developed as part of the completed works: agglomerates (methods of non-pressure granulation) and composite materials were produced on the basis of tanning shavings and mineral fillers. Young’s modulus values classify these composite materials in the group of polymers and certain materials from the group of elastomers. A method for seed coating (on the example of legumes and rape) was also developed using a disc granulator, including collagen preparations in one of the layers as a solution for preventing the effects of droughts (biostimulant). The analyses of selected properties of the new products confirm the wide possible application of waste shavings and collagen preparations in a circular economy, especially in the construction, packaging, and agricultural sectors. Full article
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16 pages, 2148 KiB  
Article
Characterization of Wet Olive Pomace Waste as Bio Based Resource for Leather Tanning
by M. Mercè Solé, Laia Pons, Mireia Conde, Carmen Gaidau and Anna Bacardit
Materials 2021, 14(19), 5790; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14195790 - 3 Oct 2021
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 3508
Abstract
Olive mill wastes represent an important environmental problem. Their high phenol, lipid, and organic acid concentrations turn them into phytotoxic materials. Specifically, wet olive pomace (WOP) is the waste generated in the two-phase continuous extraction process. WOP is a paste with around 60% [...] Read more.
Olive mill wastes represent an important environmental problem. Their high phenol, lipid, and organic acid concentrations turn them into phytotoxic materials. Specifically, wet olive pomace (WOP) is the waste generated in the two-phase continuous extraction process. WOP is a paste with around 60% water. The total volume of WOP generated is around 0.25 L/kg of olives processed. Its current waste management practices result in environmental problems as soil contamination, underground seepage, water-bodies pollution, and foul odor emissions. Some valorization alternatives include composting, biological treatments, direct combustion for energy production, or direct land application. The leather industry is making great efforts to apply cleaner processes while substituting chemical products for natural products. In this way, different alternatives are being studied, such as the use of zeolites, triazine derivatives, grape seed extract, olive leaf extract, etc. In this work, the use of wet olive pomace is presented as a possible alternative to conventional vegetable tannins (mimosa, quebracho, chestnut, etc.). Although different projects and studies have been developed for the valorization of olive mill wastes, there is completely a new approach to the WOP application for tanning purposes. This study shows that WOP has a significant number of polyphenolic substances, so it has a great potential to be used as a tanning agent. Specifically, this study has been able to determine that, of the polyphenols present in WOP, 39.6% correspond to tannins that are capable of tanning the skin. Additionally, it contains 14.3% non-tannins, that is, molecules that by themselves do not have the capacity to tan the leather but promote the tanning mechanism and improve the properties of the tanned leather. Full article
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21 pages, 4539 KiB  
Article
Multifunctional Leather Surface Design by Using Carbon Nanotube-Based Composites
by Maria Stanca, Carmen Gaidau, Cosmin-Andrei Alexe, Ioana Stanculescu, Silvana Vasilca, Andreea Matei, Demetra Simion and Roxana-Rodica Constantinescu
Materials 2021, 14(11), 3003; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14113003 - 1 Jun 2021
Cited by 17 | Viewed by 3408
Abstract
This paper deals with original research in smart leather surface design for the development of multifunctional properties by using multi-walled carbon nanotube (MWCNT)-based nanocomposites. The conductive properties were demonstrated for both sheepskin and bovine leather surfaces for 0.5% MWCNTs in finishing nanocompositions with [...] Read more.
This paper deals with original research in smart leather surface design for the development of multifunctional properties by using multi-walled carbon nanotube (MWCNT)-based nanocomposites. The conductive properties were demonstrated for both sheepskin and bovine leather surfaces for 0.5% MWCNTs in finishing nanocompositions with prospects for new material design intended for flexible electronics or multifunctional leathers. The photocatalytic properties of bovine leather surface treated with 0.5% MWCNTs were shown against an olive oil stain after visible light exposure and were attributed to reactive oxygen species generation and supported by contact angle measurements in dynamic conditions. The volatile organic compounds’ decomposition and antibacterial tests confirmed the self-cleaning experimental conclusions. Ultraviolet protection factor had excellent values for leather surfaces treated with multi-walled carbon nanotube and the fastness resistance tests showed improved performance compared to control samples. Scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray (SEM-EDX), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), and attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy analysis confirmed the influence of different leather surfaces on MWCNT dispersion with an effect on nanoparticle reactivity and efficiency in self-cleaning properties. Multifunctional leather surfaces were designed and demonstrated through MWCNT-based nanocomposite use under conventional finishing conditions. Full article
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11 pages, 1040 KiB  
Article
Enzymes for Leather Processing: Effect on Pickling and Chroming
by Renata Biškauskaitė, Violeta Valeikienė and Virgilijus Valeika
Materials 2021, 14(6), 1480; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14061480 - 17 Mar 2021
Cited by 20 | Viewed by 3797
Abstract
Recently, increasing attention has been paid to the application of enzymes in a wide variety of leather production processes. The aim of the present study was to investigate the action of enzymatic pickling on derma’s collagen and the influence of this action on [...] Read more.
Recently, increasing attention has been paid to the application of enzymes in a wide variety of leather production processes. The aim of the present study was to investigate the action of enzymatic pickling on derma’s collagen and the influence of this action on subsequent processes and properties of chromed and finished leather. The application of active in acidic medium proteolytic enzymes in the pickling process led to an additional impact on derma structure: collagen was more strongly affected and the porosity of the pelt dermis was reduced, but the hide became more thermally stable. The enzymatically pickled pelt bonded more chromium and reached higher shrinkage temperature while chroming; dyes penetrated deeper; such leather bonded more fatliquors. On the other hand, the action of enzymes worsened the physical–mechanical properties of the leather, as the experimental leather was weaker than the conventional one. The first was characterised by weaker grain layer and had significantly higher relative elongation. Therefore, as some properties improve and others worsen during such a process, the application of every enzyme should be carefully investigated and optimized to produce a leather with defined properties. Full article
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