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Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant...
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Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 September 2020) | Viewed by 97810

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Christophe Hano

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
LBLGC EA1207, INRA USC1328, University of Orleans, 21 Rue Loigny la Bataille, F-28000 Chartres, France
Interests: chemistry of natural products; analytical methods; HPLC; LC-MS; polyphenols (lignans, flavonoids, phenolic acids); ethnopharmacology; history of pharmacy
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Jean Luc Ansel

E-Mail Website
Co-Guest Editor
Cosmetic Valley, 1 Rue de l'Étroit Degré, 28000 Chartres, France
Interests: chemistry of natural products; phytochemistry of ligneous species; ethnocosmetology; cosmetopoeia ; history of cosmetic

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

During the last decades, due to their ability to produce a very wide variety of molecules, plants have attracted a growing interest for research in cosmetics. The recent development of green technologies allowed the use of renewable raw materials and the development of new extraction processes more compatible with the rules of sustainable development. However, the use of plants is far from being a novelty. Human have historically exploited plants for their food, health or well-being, using, sometimes unknowingly, “basic chemistry processes” to extract bioactive ingredients.

Although there has long existed a pharmacopoeia that lists plants for therapeutic use, work in the field of traditional cosmetics is still poorly documented. From this observation, the concept of a cosmetopoeia was proposed to fill this gap. Thus, like the pharmacopoeia, the cosmetopoeia will be a register of the cosmetic use of plants.

This Special Issue of Cosmetics "Cosmetopoeia, from the traditional to the recent uses of plants in cosmetics" will focus on different aspects including (but not restricted to):

- Traditional uses (the new concept of ethnocosmetology) of plants, for the better knowledge and preservation of the traditional uses of plants in cosmetics.

- Rationalization of the biological activities of traditionally used plants and/or plant extracts using modern techniques.

- Development of new innovative and green extraction processes of bioactive ingredients from plants traditionally used for cosmetics.

Dr. Christophe Hano
Dr. Jean Luc Ansel
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Plant
  • Traditional uses
  • History
  • Bioactive ingredients
  • Green chemistry
  • Sustainable development

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Published Papers (7 papers)

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Research

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14 pages, 2051 KiB  
Article
In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)
by Kristelle Hughes, Raimana Ho, Claire Chazaud, Stéphanie Hermitte, Stéphane Greff, Jean-François Butaud, Edith Filaire, Edwige Ranouille, Jean-Yves Berthon and Phila Raharivelomanana
Cosmetics 2021, 8(1), 13; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8010013 - 4 Feb 2021
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4254
Abstract
Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana [...] Read more.
Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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13 pages, 2269 KiB  
Article
A New Gelling Agent and Rheology Modifier in Cosmetics: Caesalpinia spinosa Gum
by Luigi Rigano, Miriam Deola, Francesca Zaccariotto, Thomas Colleoni and Nicola Lionetti
Cosmetics 2019, 6(2), 34; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6020034 - 1 Jun 2019
Cited by 14 | Viewed by 14247
Abstract
Caesalpinia spinosa gum is a vegetal polysaccharide obtained by grinding the endosperm of Caesalpinia spinosa seeds. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in food industry. Its rheological behavior, compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients, and application as a thickener in different types [...] Read more.
Caesalpinia spinosa gum is a vegetal polysaccharide obtained by grinding the endosperm of Caesalpinia spinosa seeds. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in food industry. Its rheological behavior, compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients, and application as a thickener in different types of cosmetic formulations were investigated in this article. At low concentrations (0.1–0.2%) the behavior is Newtonian; at higher percentages (0.5–2.0%) it is pseudoplastic without thixotropy. The gum was tested in combination with salts, chelating agents, humectants, thickeners, pigments, nano UV filters, surfactants, conditioners, and ethanol, as well as in acidic/alkaline conditions. The wide compatibility and the interesting sensory profile, even in association with other thickeners, make the Caesalpinia spinosa gum a very promising ingredient for the thickening of various cosmetic products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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Review

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9 pages, 10848 KiB  
Review
A Cosmetic Perspective on the Antioxidant Flavonoids from Nymphaea lotus L.
by Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Panida Kongsawadworakul and Christophe Hano
Cosmetics 2021, 8(1), 12; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8010012 - 30 Jan 2021
Cited by 13 | Viewed by 8451
Abstract
Nymphaea lotus L. or water lily is a well-known traditional medicinal plant in Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka, China, Nepal, Egypt and many African countries. This species has been reported as a promising flavonoid-rich raw material that can be used as an [...] Read more.
Nymphaea lotus L. or water lily is a well-known traditional medicinal plant in Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka, China, Nepal, Egypt and many African countries. This species has been reported as a promising flavonoid-rich raw material that can be used as an active ingredient for the development of cosmetic/cosmeceutical products. This review aims to illustrate the cosmetic potential of this species by providing botanical information, traditional uses, flavonoid accumulation, biological activities and future research challenges in the production of N. lotus extracts for cosmetic applications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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8 pages, 721 KiB  
Review
Flavonoids Profile, Taxonomic Data, History of Cosmetic Uses, Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Aging Potential of Alpinia galanga (L.) Willd
by Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Nobuyuki Tanaka, Ayumi Uehara and Tsukasa Iwashina
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040089 - 11 Nov 2020
Cited by 23 | Viewed by 7808
Abstract
Alpinia galanga is a well-known medicinal plant in Southeast Asia and has been used for a long time as food and medicine. A large number of flavonoid phytochemical compounds have been identified in various parts of this medicinal herb. Flavonoids are commonly known [...] Read more.
Alpinia galanga is a well-known medicinal plant in Southeast Asia and has been used for a long time as food and medicine. A large number of flavonoid phytochemical compounds have been identified in various parts of this medicinal herb. Flavonoids are commonly known as attractive compounds that can be applied to cosmetic or cosmeceutical product development because of their antioxidant, anti-aging and many other potential biological activities. This recent review aims to illustrate and update the taxonomic status as well as the species description that will be helpful for a rigorous identification and authenticate the raw material or living specimen from A. galanga. The flavonoid phytochemical compounds and the bioactivity of this medicinal plant are also provided. The future perspectives and research directions of A. galanga and its flavonoids are pointed out in this study as well. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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12 pages, 2298 KiB  
Review
Cosmetic Potential of Cajanus cajan (L.) Millsp: Botanical Data, Traditional Uses, Phytochemistry and Biological Activities
by Duangjai Tungmunnithum and Christophe Hano
Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040084 - 6 Nov 2020
Cited by 15 | Viewed by 8521
Abstract
Cajanus cajan (aka pigeon pea) is a terrestrial medicinal plant native to Asian and African countries before being introduced to the American continent. This protein-rich legume species, belonging to the Fabaceae family, has been traditionally used to cure various ailments in many traditional [...] Read more.
Cajanus cajan (aka pigeon pea) is a terrestrial medicinal plant native to Asian and African countries before being introduced to the American continent. This protein-rich legume species, belonging to the Fabaceae family, has been traditionally used to cure various ailments in many traditional medicines. Recent works have highlighted it as a rich source of a wide array of flavonoids and other phenolic compounds. The major biological activities that are currently reported on are mainly focused on antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities which are relevant for the cosmetic field. For example, hydroalcoholic extract from C. cajan has been highlighted as a particularly effective antioxidant in various scavenging assays for both reactive oxygen or nitrogen species. One of its constituents, cyanidin-3-monoglucoside, has been reported to suppress inflammatory cytokine production (e.g., TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 in murine RAW264.7 macrophages). The present review provides an overview on the flavonoids and phenolics from C. cajan as well as their biological activities that can be applied for cosmetic applications. In addition, the botanical data including taxonomic description, flowering season, distribution, synonyms and traditional uses are illustrated, so as to provide an overview of pigeon pea’s cosmetic/cosmeceutical potentials. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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12 pages, 803 KiB  
Review
A Promising View of Kudzu Plant, Pueraria montana var. lobata (Willd.) Sanjappa & Pradeep: Flavonoid Phytochemical Compounds, Taxonomic Data, Traditional Uses and Potential Biological Activities for Future Cosmetic Application
by Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Aekkhaluck Intharuksa and Yohei Sasaki
Cosmetics 2020, 7(1), 12; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7010012 - 13 Feb 2020
Cited by 25 | Viewed by 11176
Abstract
Pueraria montana var. lobata is widely known as kudzu especially in Japan, China, Korea, and other Asian countries. This plant is an ingredient for traditional food and an herbal ingredient for traditional medicines, particular in Japan and China. There are a few reports [...] Read more.
Pueraria montana var. lobata is widely known as kudzu especially in Japan, China, Korea, and other Asian countries. This plant is an ingredient for traditional food and an herbal ingredient for traditional medicines, particular in Japan and China. There are a few reports on its cosmetic uses. Interestingly, many phytochemical compounds from this plant have been continuously reported, particularly flavonoid compounds, which are well-known as potential bioactive ingredients for cosmetics. This work aims to illustrate promising views of kudzu plant, focusing on the diversity of flavonoid phytochemical compounds, taxonomic data, traditional uses, and potential biological activities for future cosmetic applications, i.e., antioxidant, antiglycation, skin regeneration, and melanogenesis inhibitory activities. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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11 pages, 796 KiB  
Review
Traditional and Modern Uses of Saffron (Crocus Sativus)
by Ibtissam Mzabri, Mohamed Addi and Abdelbasset Berrichi
Cosmetics 2019, 6(4), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6040063 - 25 Oct 2019
Cited by 108 | Viewed by 41970
Abstract
The Aromatic and Medicinal Plants sector has undergone a remarkable evolution, especially during the last decade. The global market is moving more and more towards products of natural origin. Indeed, of the 4200-existing plant in Morocco, 800 are listed as aromatic and medicinal [...] Read more.
The Aromatic and Medicinal Plants sector has undergone a remarkable evolution, especially during the last decade. The global market is moving more and more towards products of natural origin. Indeed, of the 4200-existing plant in Morocco, 800 are listed as aromatic and medicinal plants. Among these plants, saffron is a source of income for many areas of Morocco. Saffron, the dried stigma of the Crocus sativus flower, is considered among the main terroir products of Morocco. Saffron has accompanied all civilizations, whether for its culinary role, for its quality of dye or its ancestral virtues rooted in folk medicine. This review highlights the main components of saffron, and the pharmacological activities that result from it and make this product a serious therapeutic hope. Then, a classification of uses of saffron was carried out according to its uses, traditional, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and perfumery without forgetting its use a spice incorporated in many dishes around the world. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetopoeia, from the Traditional to the Recent Uses of Plant in Cosmetics)
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