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Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics

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A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 May 2024) | Viewed by 34257

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Dr. Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar

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Science and Math Program, Asian University for Women, Chittagong 4000, Bangladesh
Interests: antioxidant

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Plant-based molecules and materials are commonly used in cosmetics due to their natural properties and perceived benefits for the body. These natural ingredients are generally considered to be safer and less harmful to the environment compared to synthetic ingredients commonly used in cosmetics. The use of plant-based molecules and materials in cosmetics is becoming increasingly popular due to their natural properties and perceived benefits for the body. Plant extracts and nanomaterials have numerous benefits when used in cosmetics, e.g., they are often considered to be gentler and safer for the skin compared to synthetic ingredients, and many consumers are willing to pay a premium for natural and organic cosmetic products. These plant-based cosmetics are known for anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, brightening, and moisturizing properties, for their ability to provide UV protection, and for their sustainability. Overall, plant extracts and nanomaterials have a wide range of benefits when used in cosmetics. They are natural, sustainable, and effective ingredients that can help to improve health and appearance. In this endeavor, this Special Issue invites research and review articles from researchers working on “Plant-Based Extracts, Molecules, Materials and Their Application in the Development of Cosmetics”.

Dr. Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar
Guest Editor

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Keywords

plant extracts
phytochemicals
green nanomaterials
green cosmetics
medicinal cosmetics

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Published Papers (11 papers)

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Editorial

Jump to: Research, Review

3 pages, 163 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics

by Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 211; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060211 - 4 Dec 2024

Viewed by 643

Abstract

With the growing demand for products that are gentle on the skin and manufactured by eco-friendly means, the field of cosmetics is witnessing a remarkable shift toward natural ingredients [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

Research

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14 pages, 3291 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Glossogyne tenuifolia Essential Oil Prevents Forskolin-Induced Melanin Biosynthesis via Altering MITF Signaling Cascade

by Wan-Teng Lin, Yi-Ju Chen, Hsin-Ning Kuo, Cheng-Yeh Yu, Mosleh Mohammad Abomughaid and K. J. Senthil Kumar

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040142 - 20 Aug 2024

Viewed by 1168

Abstract

Glossogyne tenuifolia (Labill.) Cass. ex Cass (Compositae) is a herbaceous plant that is endemic to Taiwan. Traditional Chinese Medicine has utilized it as a treatment for fever, inflammation, and liver preservation. Recent research has unveiled its bioactivities, including anti-inflammation, anti-cancer, antiviral, antioxidant, anti-fatigue, hepatoprotection, and immune modulation elements. Nevertheless, its effect on skin health remains to be investigated. Thus, we investigated the impact of G. tenuifolia essential oil (GTEO) on forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis and its mechanisms in B16-F10 murine melanoma in vitro. Treatment of GTEO resulted in a substantial decrease in FRK-induced melanin production, accompanied by a significant decrease in tyrosinase mRNA and protein expression levels. Additionally, our data demonstrated that the decrease in tyrosinase expression resulted from the suppression of MITF, as indicated by the reduced movement of MITF into the cell nucleus. Moreover, GTEO prompted a prolonged ERK1/2 activation, leading to the decline of MITF through proteasomal degradation, and it was verified that GTEO had no inhibitory impact on MITF activity in ERK1/2 inhibitor-treated cells. Additional studies demonstrated that α-pinene and D-limonene, which are the primary components in GTEO, showed strong melanin and tyrosinase inhibitory effects, indicating that α-pinene and D-limonene may contribute to its anti-melanogenic effects. Collectively, these data presented compelling proof that GTEO, along with its primary components α-pinene and D-limonene, show great potential as natural sources for developing innovative skin-whitening agents in the field of cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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12 pages, 2110 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Apigenin and Phloretin Combination for Skin Aging and Hyperpigmentation Regulation

by Alfredo Martínez-Gutiérrez, Javier Sendros, Teresa Noya and Mari Carmen González

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 128; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040128 - 26 Jul 2024

Viewed by 1885

Abstract

Melasma is a pathology with multifactorial causes that results in hyperpigmentation of sun-exposed areas, particularly facial skin. New treatments targeting the different factors regulating this condition need to be effective with and have limited adverse effects. Here, we describe a novel combination of two natural compounds (apigenin and phloretin) that has synergistic effects regulating melanogenesis in vitro. Both compounds inhibit Wnt-stimulated melanogenesis and induce autophagy in melanocytes. Apigenin induces DKK1, a Wnt pathway inhibitor, and reduces VEGF, a melanogenesis and proangiogenic factor, in fibroblasts. Moreover, apigenin induces miR-675, a melanogenesis inhibitor miRNA that is reduced in melasma skin in melanocytes. Both compounds showed senomorphic effects by regulating extracellular-matrix-related genes in senescent fibroblasts. Topical application of the compounds also showed significant melanin reduction in a reconstructed human epidermis after 7 days. Thus, the combination of apigenin and phloretin shows promising results as an effective topical treatment of skin hyperpigmentation conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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31 pages, 5215 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Extending the Physical Functionality of Bioactive Blends of Astrocaryum Pulp and Kernel Oils from Guyana

by Laziz Bouzidi, Shaveshwar Deonarine, Navindra Soodoo, R. J. Neil Emery, Sanela Martic and Suresh S. Narine

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040107 - 26 Jun 2024

Viewed by 1638

Abstract

Natural lipids with nutritional or therapeutic benefits that also provide desired texture, melting and organoleptic appeal (mouthfeel, skin feel) are difficult to procure for the food and cosmetics industries. Natural Astrocaryum pulp oil (AVP) and kernel fat (AVK) from Guyana were blended without further modification to study the potential of extending the physical functionality of the blends beyond that of crude AVK and AVP. An evaluation of non-lipid components by ESI-MS indicated twenty-four (24) bioactive molecules, mainly carotenoids (90%), polyphenols (9%) and sterols (1%) in AVP, indicating important health and therapeutic benefits. Only trace-to-negligible amounts of these compounds were detected in AVK. The thermal transition phase behavior, solid fat content (SFC), microstructure and textural properties of five AVP/AVL blends were used to construct phase diagrams of the AVK/AVP binary system. Binary phase diagrams constructed from the cooling and heating DSC thermograms of the mixtures and description of the liquidus line indicated a mixing behavior close to ideal with a tendency for order, with no phase separation. Melting onsets, solid fat content and measurements of solid-like texture all predictively increased with increasing AVK content. The descriptive decay parameters obtained for SFC, crystal size, hardness, firmness and spreadability were similar and predictive and indicate the way the binary system structure approaches that of a liquid or a functional solid. The bioactive content of the blends was accurately calculated; the work provides a blueprint for the blending of AVP and AVK to deliver targeted bioactive content, stability, spreadability, texture, melting profile, organoleptic appeal and solid content. SFCs at 20 °C ranged from 9.1% to 39.1%, melting onset from −17.5 °C to 27.8 °C, hardness from 0.1 N to 3.5 N and spreadability from 3.3 N·s to 147.1 N·s; indicating a useful dynamic range of physical properties suitable for bioactive oils to bioactive butters. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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11 pages, 2037 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Extracts and Essential Oils as Ingredients in Cosmetics: Search for Potential Phytomarkers and Allergen Survey

by Laura Rubio, Andrea Pita, Carmen Garcia-Jares and Marta Lores

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030084 - 24 May 2024

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2274

Abstract

The increasing use of natural ingredients such as essential oils (EOs) and natural extracts (NEs) in cosmetics is an analytical and legislative challenge due to their complex composition, which includes recognized allergenic compounds. In this work, 17 EOs and NEs have been characterized by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) of dilutions of the original samples. Additionally, solid phase microextraction (SPME) was applied for the analysis of volatile components. The results obtained allowed the identification of more than 90 compounds, including 20 allergens, in the analyzed samples and the study of potential phytomarkers of the addition of EOs and ENs in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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22 pages, 3252 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation and Characterization of Non-Toxic, Antimicrobial, and Alcohol-Free Hand Sanitizer Nanoemulgel Based on Lemon Peel Extract

by Faten Mohamed Ibrahim, Eman Samy Shalaby, Mohamed Azab El-Liethy, Sherif Abd-Elmaksoud, Reda Sayed Mohammed, Said I. Shalaby, Cristina V. Rodrigues, Manuela Pintado and El Sayed El Habbasha

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020059 - 12 Apr 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2977

Abstract

Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan gum as a gelling agent and stabilizer, were developed and characterized as a novel alternative. All formulations showed non-Newtonian shear-thinning flow behavior, particle size values below 200 nm, and increasing zeta potential with higher xanthan gum concentrations. All nanoemulgel formulations exhibited greater in vitro phenolic compound release than free LE. LN-F2 (1.0% LE, 20.0% mineral oil, 20.0% Span 80, 4.0% Cremophor RH 40, 4.0% PEG 400, 0.5% xanthan gum, 50.5% dH₂O) was selected as the optimal formulation due to improved characteristics. LE and LN-F2 potential cytotoxicity was assessed on MA-104, showing no significant cellular morphological alterations up to 10 mg/mL for both samples. LN-F2 showed in vitro antimicrobial activity against E. coli, S. Typhimurium, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, L. monocytogenes, and C. albicans, as well as antiviral activity against phiX 174, but no effect against rotavirus (SA-11). In vivo, LN-F2 presented a removal capacity of 83% to 100% for bacteria and 89% to 100% for fungi. These findings suggest that the formulated nanoemulgel holds potential as a safe and effective antiseptic, providing a viable alternative to commercial alcohol-based formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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14 pages, 3130 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking the Potential: A Comprehensive Analysis of the Technological Properties and Consumer Perception of Shampoo Enriched with Patchouli Extract and Allantoin

by Ugnė Žlabienė, Erlita Bartkutė and Jurga Bernatonienė

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 53; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020053 - 2 Apr 2024

Viewed by 2569

Abstract

Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their impact on the technological properties of the product. With limited research on their efficacy, our investigation contributes valuable insights to the development of effective and consumer-friendly shampoos targeting dandruff concerns. Physicochemical characteristics (pH, surface tension, texture) were evaluated, alongside specific quality assessments such as wetting time, dirt dispersion, foaming, and cleaning action, in in vivo consumer research. Shampoo formulations incorporating 0.5% Patchoul’Up™ and 1% allantoin exhibited acceptable properties. However, the addition of plant-derived ingredients resulted in a beneficial decrease in surface tension (5.87%). Nevertheless, a decrease in cohesiveness (18%) over a 5-month period resulted in rheological changes, indicating potential instability (p < 0.05). While the consumer evaluation aligns with laboratory findings, continuous research is essential to ensure stability and validate the anti-dandruff potential of the formulation, both in vitro and in vivo. This involves expanding the number of volunteers, with a specific focus on individuals experiencing dandruff concerns, to assess the shampoo’s efficacy and impact on diverse user experiences. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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10 pages, 2342 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

The Natural Centella asiatica Extract Acts as a Stretch Mark Eraser: A Biological Evaluation

by Cloé Boira, Marie Meunier, Marine Bracq, Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud

Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 15; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010015 - 23 Jan 2024

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 8922

Abstract

Stretch marks are far from exclusively appearing on pregnant women and appear whenever the body experiences rapid growth. Collagen fibres are altered in the dermis, which is associated with a loss of orientation, and the elastic network is disrupted, leading to a fibrotic organisation. This results in epidermal tearing that produces skin lesions. Centella asiatica (CAST) is a well-known medicinal plant rich in active triterpenic molecules and traditionally used to treat wounds and help skin repair. The aim of this study was to evaluate CAST extract as a natural way to solve stretch mark concerns and understand its mechanism of action. Fibroblast proliferation based on scratch assay model and their gene expression by RT-qPCR was first evaluated. At the ex vivo level, elastin fibres were quantified by immunofluorescence. The orientation of the collagen fibres and their occupation of the dermis were analysed after Sirius red staining and specific software analysis. We showed that CAST stimulated fibroblast proliferation and reduced extracellular matrix degradation and fibrosis. On a stretch-marked skin explant, CAST increased the occupation of collagen fibres and elastin production. Based on the mechanisms behind the formation of stretch marks, CAST restored the dermis network by optimising fibre organisation for a visible skin remodelling effect. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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15 pages, 1879 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Adaptogen Technology for Skin Resilience Benefits

by Andrea Cavagnino, Lionel Breton, Charline Ruaux, Celeste Grossgold, Suzy Levoy, Rawad Abdayem, Romain Roumiguiere, Stephanie Cheilian, Anne Bouchara, Martin A. Baraibar and Audrey Gueniche

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 155; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060155 - 10 Nov 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3873

Abstract

(1) Background: Skin undergoes constant changes, providing capabilities to repair and renovate its constituents once damaged and a fundamental shield to contrast environmental stress. Nevertheless, environmental stressors may overcome the skin’s protective potential inducing premature aging and accelerating the appearance of anaesthetic age-related skin aspects. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pollutants (particulate matters, PAHs) contribute to skin aging and functional decline inducing harmful oxidative modifications of macromolecules and stress-related skin disorders. Innovative approaches to preserve skin are needed. (2) Methods: Skin keratinocytes were treated (or not) with a combination of ingredients (Lactobacillus plantarum extract, Withania somnifera root extract and Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract; “MIX”) in the presence or absence of stress (oxidative stress or pollution). The effects of the MIX adaptogen technology on (a) cellular resilience, (b) the regulation of cellular functions and (c) regeneration of skin were disclosed through expression proteomics and bioinformatics analyses first, and then through focused evaluations of protein carbonylation as a hallmark of oxidative stress’ deleterious impact and mitochondrial activity. (3) Results: The deleterious impact of stressors was evidenced, as well as the beneficial effects of the MIX through (a) mitochondrial activity preservation, (b) the “vigilance” of the NRF2 pathway activation, (c) NADPH production and protein homeostasis improvements, (d) preserving skin regeneration function and I the contrasting stress-induced oxidation (carbonylation) of mitochondrial and nuclear proteins. (4) Conclusions: The effects of the MIX on increasing cell adaptability and resilience under stress suggested a beneficial contribution in precision cosmetics and healthy human skin by acting as an adaptogen, an innovative approach that may be employed to improve resistance to harmful stress with a potential favourable impact on skin homeostasis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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Review

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15 pages, 2558 KiB

Open AccessReview

An Insight into the Cosmetic and Dermatologic Applications of the Molecules of Palmyra Palm

by Sunehra Sayanhika and Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060196 - 20 Nov 2024

Viewed by 1159

Abstract

Palmyra palm is a resourceful plant species that can be put to use in superabundance. Its extensive range of use stretches in all directions—making it useful for consumption in countless forms, and the cosmetic industry is not a deviation from this. In accordance with the beneficial molecules generated in it, such as polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids and others, the addition of Palmyra raises incentives like reduction and microbe prevention when developed into therapeutic products. Therefore, the virtues of Palmyra fruit, sap, leaves, pulp, bark, haustoria and other parts are being diversely exploited in the beauty and health industry at present. To summarise the compass of Palmyra palm and its products in cosmetology and dermatology, an overview is drafted exploring the extant literature on the topic. Following the description of the available molecules, their adoption into skincare products and in vivo effects was analysed in this study. Aiming to highlight the prospects of Palmyra in skin and personal care formulations, this article discusses the span of its potential in light of its physicochemical attributes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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46 pages, 1743 KiB

Open AccessReview

Medicinal Plants for Dermatological Diseases: Ethnopharmacological Significance of Botanicals from West Africa in Skin Care

by Mokgadi Ursula Makgobole, Nomakhosi Mpofana and Abdulwakeel Ayokun-nun Ajao

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 167; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060167 - 7 Dec 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 5348

Abstract

Skin disease is a severe health issue that affects a lot of people in Africa and is vastly underreported. Because of their availability, affordability, and safety, medicinal plants represent a major source of treatment for various skin diseases in West Africa. This review presents the medicinal plants used in treating skin diseases in West Africa and their available biological activities that have lent credence to their skin care usage. A total of 211 plant species from 56 families are implicated to be used in West Africa for several skin conditions such as aphthous ulcers, burns, eczema, scabies, sores, and wounds. Fabaceae is the most-implicated family (30 species) for the treatment of skin diseases, followed by Combretaceae (14 species) and Asteraceae (13 species). Most of the medicinal plants used are trees (93); leaves (107) were the most-used plant part, and decoction (73) was the preferred preparation method for the medicinal plants. The biological activities related to the pathology of skin diseases, such as antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties of 82 plants, have been evaluated. Based on their minimum inhibitory concentration, the most active antimicrobial plant is Brillantaisia lamium. Among the isolated phytochemicals, betulenic acid and lespedin were the most active, while plants such as Kigelia africana and Strophanthus hispidus showed significant wound-healing activities. This review highlights research gaps in the ethnobotanical studies of many West African countries, the biological activities of plants used to treat skin diseases, and the cosmetic potential of these plants. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)

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