Aromatic and Medicinal Plants as Source of Bioactive Natural Compounds with Cosmetic Applications—Volume 2

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 July 2024) | Viewed by 11647

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
Laboratory for Process Engineering, Environment, Biotechnology and Energy (LEPABE), Department of Chemical Engineering (DEQ), Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto (FEUP), Porto, Portugal
Interests: food microbiota; chromatography and mass spectrometry; separation processes; valorisation of agro-food by-products; fermentation processes and microbial starter cultures; sourdough and breadmaking
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Guest Editor
Center for Studies and Research of Medicinal Plants (NEPLAME), Federal University of Vale do São Francisco (UNIVASF), Petrolina, Pernambuco, Brazil
Interests: natural products; medicinal plants; phytochemistry; pharmacology; nuclear magnetic resonance; chromatography and mass spectrometry
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Guest Editor
Head, Department of Chemistry, Faculty Polydisciplinary of Larache, University AbdelMalek Essaadi Tetouan, Tetouan, Morocco
Interests: natural products; medicinal chemistry; phytochemistry; valorisation of agri-food by-products; molecular docking; ecofreindly extraction process; dermo-cosmetic activity
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The cosmetic industry is one of the biggest industries in the world. Its steady growth is made possible by constant adaptation to consumers’ needs, as well as new market trends. Over the few last decades, consumers have become more aware of the importance of organic products developed under a sustainable economic model and reducing the use of synthetic ingredients. This requirement led to the industry-wide use of aromatic and medicinal plants as source of cosmetic ingredients.

Aromatic and medicinal plants (MAP) are considered an inexhaustible source of natural bioactive substances. These substances have different chemical structures and many biological properties, making them a highly popular resource within the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The diversity of natural substances is the result of structural differences accumulated during the process of adapting/evolving to specific biological targets. Today, it is estimated that active substances of plant origin represent 25% of drugs on the market, with a total of 150 natural compounds from more than 90 species of plants.

Many phytochemical and pharmacological investigations proved that natural products have very good cosmetic properties and low mammalian toxicity. Moreover, the use of those natural compounds presents many benefits such as a pleasant aroma in perfumery, shine or conditioning effects in hair care products, and improving the elasticity of the skin.

This Special Issue calls for manuscripts related to cosmetic applications of natural products, which provide visibility to scientific investigations into the potential use of natural compounds as a main or secondary ingredient for cosmetic products. Those studies include, among others, pharmacological investigations, toxicological studies, phytochemical investigations with cosmetic application.

Dr. João Miguel F. Rocha
Dr. Jackson Roberto Guedes da Silva Almeida
Dr. Noureddine El Aouad
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • cosmetic industry
  • plant-based bioactive compound
  • aromatic plants
  • cosmetic plants
  • medicinal plants

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Published Papers (3 papers)

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Research

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17 pages, 4233 KiB  
Article
Patchouli Alcohol: A Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitor Derived from Patchouli Essential Oil with Potential in the Development of a Skin-Lightening Agent
by K. J. Senthil Kumar, M. Gokila Vani, Muthusamy Chinnasamy, Wan-Teng Lin and Sheng-Yang Wang
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 38; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020038 - 5 Mar 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3698
Abstract
The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin [...] Read more.
The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis, cellular tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase (TYR) protein expression. However, the transcriptional levels of TYR and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1 and TRP-2) remained unaffected. These results suggest that PEO and PA may directly interrupt tyrosinase enzyme activity, leading to a reduction in melanin biosynthesis. Further experiments supported this notion, revealing that both PEO and PA significantly and dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity in both the monophenolase and diphenolase phases. Additionally, an in silico molecular docking analysis was performed, utilizing a homology model of human tyrosinase. In conclusion, these findings strongly suggest that patchouli essential oil and its primary bioactive component, patchouli alcohol, hold promise as potential treatments for hyperpigmentary skin conditions and in the development of cosmetic products designed to lighten the skin. Full article
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13 pages, 3282 KiB  
Article
Exploring the Potential Anti-Inflammatory and Wound-Healing Proprieties of Cepaea hortensis Snail Mucin
by Fatima Errajouani, Hanane Bakrim, Sohaib Hourfane, Adnane Louajri, João Miguel Rocha, Noureddine El Aouad and Amin Laglaoui
Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 170; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060170 - 14 Dec 2023
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4423
Abstract
Long before its popularization as a skincare ingredient, snail slime was reported to have a variety of health-promoting attributes. Its medicinal use involved the treatment of ailments, such as anthrax, hernias, stomach pain, chest pain, as well as tuberculosis. The main aim of [...] Read more.
Long before its popularization as a skincare ingredient, snail slime was reported to have a variety of health-promoting attributes. Its medicinal use involved the treatment of ailments, such as anthrax, hernias, stomach pain, chest pain, as well as tuberculosis. The main aim of this study was to investigate the anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties of snail slime from Cepaea hortensis (Müller, 1774) (brown garden snail). The slime was extracted by a mild method, and the anti-inflammatory characteristics were determined by croton-oil-induced mouse-ear edema. The histological study showed that the snail slime exerts its action at the level of inflammatory mediators, explaining the drastic decrease of edema (59% in comparison to the 47% of indomethacin). The daily application of 50 µL (15 mg/kg) of snail slime on excision wounds in rabbits proved to induce an almost full tissue repair after 24 days of treatment (87.80–92.7% wound closure in width and length, respectively). Analysis of the slime’s safety aspect allowed affirming the nontoxicity of snail slime on both the skin and eyes. Full article
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Review

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18 pages, 914 KiB  
Review
Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) Extracts in Cosmetics: A Review of Bioactive Properties for Skin and Hair Wellness
by Daniela Batovska, Anelia Gerasimova and Krastena Nikolova
Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050181 - 15 Oct 2024
Viewed by 2800
Abstract
Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), native to Southern Asia, stands out for its significant nutritional and therapeutic properties. Its adaptability and resilience have enabled its global cultivation, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive scientific research to fully harness its potential. Rich in bioactive compounds [...] Read more.
Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), native to Southern Asia, stands out for its significant nutritional and therapeutic properties. Its adaptability and resilience have enabled its global cultivation, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive scientific research to fully harness its potential. Rich in bioactive compounds like flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, and saponins, jujube extracts exhibit notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound healing properties. These qualities have made jujube a popular ingredient in various skin and hair care formulations. The versatility of jujube extracts, along with their synergy with other herbal active ingredients, enables the development of targeted personal care solutions. These solutions address a range of concerns, including anti-aging, UV protection, brightening, moisturizing, and calming effects, as well as promoting hair health. Despite its potential, research on the cosmetic applications of Z. jujuba is still in its early stages, with only one clinical trial to date focusing on its skin-brightening effects. This review aims to consolidate the current and emerging research on the applications of jujube in conventional and medical cosmetics, highlighting its potential in enhancing skin and hair wellness. By providing a comprehensive overview, it seeks to pave the way for further studies and innovations in utilizing jujube for personal care. Full article
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