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Special Issue "Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis"

A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Flavours and Fragrances".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 15 July 2021.

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Maria Celeiro
E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
CRETUS Institute, Department of Analytical Chemistry, Nutrition and Food Science, Universidade de Santiago de Compostela, E-15782, Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Interests: cosmetic analysis; bioactive compounds; emerging pollutants; miniaturized extraction techniques; environmental analysis; chromatography; mass spectrometry
Prof. Dr. Maria Llompart
E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
CRETUS Institute, Department of Analytical Chemistry, Nutrition and Food Science, Universidade de Santiago de Compostela, E-15782, Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Interests: sample preparation; extraction and microextraction; GC/MS; LC/MS; method development and validation; chemometrics; environmental pollutants; emerging contaminants; personal care products

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The use of cosmetics and personal care products is increasing worldwide. They are complex matrices formed by a broad range of chemical compounds including classical ingredients such as fragrances, preservatives, UV filters or dyes, among others. However, in recent years, the trend has been moving toward including other additives such as bioactive molecules or compounds with nutraceuticals properties. Their matrix complexity, together with the wide range of cosmetics and personal care products currently marketed, imply a challenge for their analysis, with most of them requiring a sample pre-treatment step before analysis.

I cordially invite authors to contribute original articles or reviews that will give the readers of Molecules updated information about the recent advances in cosmetics and personal care products analysis. Such contributions may include new sample preparation strategies based on microextraction and green miniaturized techniques to determine a broad spectrum of compounds in cosmetic and personal care products, as well as the identification and characterization of bioactive compounds from natural plant extracts that could be employed as value-added ingredients.

This Special Issue is supported by the Sample Preparation Study Group and Network, supported by the Division of Analytical Chemistry of the European Chemical Society (https://www.sampleprep.tuc.gr/en/home/).

Dr. Maria Celeiro
Prof. Dr. Maria Llompart
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All papers will be peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Molecules is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2000 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Cosmetic analysis
  • Personal care products
  • Green chemistry
  • Sample preparation
  • Microextraction techniques
  • Chromatographic analysis

Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

Article
Potentiometric Surfactant Sensor Based on 1,3-Dihexadecyl-1H-benzo[d]imidazol-3-ium for Anionic Surfactants in Detergents and Household Care Products
Molecules 2021, 26(12), 3627; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26123627 - 14 Jun 2021
Viewed by 284
Abstract
A 1,3-dihexadecyl-1H-benzo[d]imidazol-3-ium-tetraphenylborate (DHBI-TPB) ion-pair implemented in DHBI-TPB surfactant sensor was used for the potentiometric quantification of anionic surfactants in detergents and commercial household care products. The DHBI-TPB ion-pair was characterized by FTIR spectroscopy and computational analysis which revealed a [...] Read more.
A 1,3-dihexadecyl-1H-benzo[d]imidazol-3-ium-tetraphenylborate (DHBI-TPB) ion-pair implemented in DHBI-TPB surfactant sensor was used for the potentiometric quantification of anionic surfactants in detergents and commercial household care products. The DHBI-TPB ion-pair was characterized by FTIR spectroscopy and computational analysis which revealed a crucial contribution of the C–H∙∙∙π contacts for the optimal complex formation. The DHBI-TPB sensor potentiometric response showed excellent analytical properties and Nernstian slope for SDS (60.1 mV/decade) with LOD 3.2 × 10−7 M; and DBS (58.4 mV/decade) with LOD 6.1 × 10−7 M was obtained. The sensor possesses exceptional resistance to different organic and inorganic interferences in broad pH (2–10) range. DMIC used as a titrant demonstrated superior analytical performances for potentiometric titrations of SDS, compared to other tested cationic surfactants (DMIC > CTAB > CPC > Hyamine 1622). The combination of DHBI-TPB sensor and DMIC was successfully employed to perform titrations of the highly soluble alkane sulfonate homologues. Nonionic surfactants (increased concentration and number of EO groups) had a negative impact on anionic surfactant titration curves and a signal change. The DHBI-TPB sensor was effectively employed for the determination of technical grade anionic surfactants presenting the recoveries from 99.5 to 101.3%. The sensor was applied on twelve powered samples as well as liquid-gel and handwashing home care detergents containing anionic surfactants. The obtained results showed good agreement compared to the outcomes measured by ISE surfactant sensor and a two-phase titration method. The developed DHBI-TPB surfactant sensor could be used for quality control in industry and has great potential in environmental monitoring. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis)
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Article
Activity of Experimental Mouthwashes and Gels Containing DNA-RNA and Bioactive Molecules against the Oxidative Stress of Oral Soft Tissues: The Importance of Formulations. A Bioreactor-Based Reconstituted Human Oral Epithelium Model
Molecules 2021, 26(10), 2976; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26102976 - 17 May 2021
Viewed by 285
Abstract
Background: DNA-RNA compounds have shown promising protection against cell oxidative stress. This study aimed to assess the cytotoxicity, protective, or preventive effect of different experimental formulations on oral epithelia’s oxidative stress in vitro. Methods: Reconstituted human oral epithelia (RHOE) were grown air-lifted in [...] Read more.
Background: DNA-RNA compounds have shown promising protection against cell oxidative stress. This study aimed to assess the cytotoxicity, protective, or preventive effect of different experimental formulations on oral epithelia’s oxidative stress in vitro. Methods: Reconstituted human oral epithelia (RHOE) were grown air-lifted in a continuous-flow bioreactor. Mouthwashes and gels containing DNA-RNA compounds and other bioactive molecules were tested on a model of oxidative stress generated by hydrogen peroxide treatment. Epithelia viability was evaluated using a biochemical MTT-based assay and confocal microscopy; structural and ultrastructural morphology was evaluated by light microscopy and TEM. Results: DNA-RNA showed non-cytotoxic activity and effectively protected against oxidative stress, but did not help in its prevention. Gel formulations did not express adequate activity compared to the mouthwashes. Excipients played a fundamental role in enhancing or even decreasing the bioactive molecules’ effect. Conclusion: A mouthwash formulation with hydrolyzed DNA-RNA effectively protected against oxidative stress without additional enhancement by other bioactive molecules. Active compounds, such as hyaluronic acid, β-Glucan, allantoin, bisabolol, ruscogenin, and essential oils, showed a protective effect against oxidative stress, which was not synergistic with the one of DNA-RNA. Incorporation of surfactant agents showed a reduced, yet significant, cytotoxic effect. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis)
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Article
Multi-Target Strategy to Uncover Unexpected Compounds in Rinse-Off and Leave-On Cosmetics
Molecules 2021, 26(9), 2504; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26092504 - 25 Apr 2021
Viewed by 531
Abstract
The wide range and complexity of cosmetic formulations currently available on the market poses a challenge from an analytical point of view. In addition, during cosmetics manufacture, impurities coming from raw materials or formed by reaction of different organic compounds present in the [...] Read more.
The wide range and complexity of cosmetic formulations currently available on the market poses a challenge from an analytical point of view. In addition, during cosmetics manufacture, impurities coming from raw materials or formed by reaction of different organic compounds present in the formulation may be present. Their identification is mandatory to assure product quality and consumer health. In this work, micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (μMSPD) is proposed as a multi-target sample preparation strategy to analyze a wide number of unexpected families of compounds including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), pesticides, plasticizers, nitrosamines, alkylphenols (APs), and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs). Analytical determination was performed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) for the determination of 51 target compounds in a single run, whereas liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was employed for the analysis of six APs and APEOs. Both methodologies were successfully validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics. Limits of detection (LODs) were calculated in the low ng g−1, showing their suitability to determine trace levels of impurities and banned compounds with different chemical natures, providing useful tools to cosmetic control laboratories and companies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis)
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Article
Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor—A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study
Molecules 2021, 26(6), 1649; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26061649 - 16 Mar 2021
Viewed by 481
Abstract
The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This [...] Read more.
The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis)
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Article
Direct Potentiometric Study of Cationic and Nonionic Surfactants in Disinfectants and Personal Care Products by New Surfactant Sensor Based on 1,3-Dihexadecyl−1H-benzo[d]imidazol−3-ium
Molecules 2021, 26(5), 1366; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26051366 - 04 Mar 2021
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 413
Abstract
A novel, simple, low-cost, and user-friendly potentiometric surfactant sensor based on the new 1,3-dihexadecyl−1H-benzo[d]imidazol−3-ium-tetraphenylborate (DHBI–TPB) ion-pair for the detection of cationic surfactants in personal care products and disinfectants is presented here. The new cationic surfactant DHBI-Br was successfully synthesized [...] Read more.
A novel, simple, low-cost, and user-friendly potentiometric surfactant sensor based on the new 1,3-dihexadecyl−1H-benzo[d]imidazol−3-ium-tetraphenylborate (DHBI–TPB) ion-pair for the detection of cationic surfactants in personal care products and disinfectants is presented here. The new cationic surfactant DHBI-Br was successfully synthesized and characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometry, liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC–MS) and elemental analysis and was further employed for DHBI–TPB ion-pair preparation. The sensor gave excellent response characteristics for CTAB, CPC and Hyamine with a Nernstian slope (57.1 to 59.1 mV/decade) whereas the lowest limit of detection (LOD) value was measured for CTAB (0.3 × 10−6 M). The sensor exhibited a fast dynamic response to dodecyl sulfate (DDS) and TPB. High sensor performances stayed intact regardless of the employment of inorganic and organic cations and in a broad pH range (2−11). Titration of cationic and etoxylated (EO)-nonionic surfactant (NSs) (in Ba2+) mixtures with TPB revealed the first inflexion point for a cationic surfactant and the second for an EO-nonionic surfactant. The increased concentration of EO-nonionic surfactants and the number of EO groups had a negative influence on titration curves and signal change. The sensor was successfully applied for the quantification of technical-grade cationic surfactants and in 12 personal care products and disinfectants. The results showed good agreement with the measurements obtained by a commercial surfactant sensor and by a two-phase titration. A good recovery for the standard addition method (98–102%) was observed. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis)
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