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Article

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor—A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

1
Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité—Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany
2
Merck KGaA, Frankfurterstr. 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editors: Maria Celeiro and Maria Llompart
Molecules 2021, 26(6), 1649; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26061649
Received: 26 February 2021 / Revised: 11 March 2021 / Accepted: 12 March 2021 / Published: 16 March 2021
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Last Advances in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis)
The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted. View Full-Text
Keywords: confocal Raman microspectroscopy; skin hydration; water binding; lipid organization; lamellae confocal Raman microspectroscopy; skin hydration; water binding; lipid organization; lamellae
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MDPI and ACS Style

Schleusener, J.; Salazar, A.; von Hagen, J.; Lademann, J.; Darvin, M.E. Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor—A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study. Molecules 2021, 26, 1649. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26061649

AMA Style

Schleusener J, Salazar A, von Hagen J, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor—A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study. Molecules. 2021; 26(6):1649. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26061649

Chicago/Turabian Style

Schleusener, Johannes; Salazar, Andrew; von Hagen, Jörg; Lademann, Jürgen; Darvin, Maxim E. 2021. "Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor—A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study" Molecules 26, no. 6: 1649. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26061649

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