Wave Transformation in the Nearshore and the Formation of Surfable Waves

Dear Colleagues,

The formation and transformation of surfable waves, including their breaking dynamics within the nearshore zone, continue to represent a significant challenge in the fields of nearshore oceanography and coastal engineering. A critical challenge in these disciplines is the acquisition of precise observational data and the development of robust numerical models that accurately simulate the evolution of waves from offshore swell conditions to the surf zone, along with their breaking dynamics. Wave breaking is a fundamental aspect of generating surfable waves in the surf zone; however, it also triggers a complex array of additional processes, including wave setup, low-frequency water motions, and wave-driven mean flows. These processes can alter local water levels and influence sediment transport, as well as the stability of coastal structures.

This Special Issue aims to shed light on innovative advancements in the observation, physical modelling, and numerical modelling of swell propagation, wave transformation, nearshore wave dynamics, and generation of surfable waves. Topics of interest include, but are not limited to, the following areas:

• Innovative observational techniques, such as remote sensing, in situ measurements, and autonomous sensing platforms, for capturing swell and surf-zone dynamics.
• Physical modelling experiments and laboratory studies that simulate wave transformation processes, including refraction, diffraction, overtopping, and breaking.
• Numerical modelling of swell propagation from offshore sources to the surf zone and surface-zone wave dynamics.
• Studies on the impact of bathymetry, coastal morphology, and tides on waves and the formation of optimal surf conditions.
• Analysis of wave breaking, turbulence, and energy dissipation mechanisms within the surf zone.
• Numerical modelling of wave dynamics in the surf zone.
• Wave breaking in the surf zone and associated currents.
• Research and experimental studies related to artificial surfing reefs.

Dr. Sarath Wijeratne
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

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Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

• swell propagation
• surfable waves
• wave shoaling and breaking
• wave refraction and diffraction
• artificial surfing reefs and parks
• physical and numerical models
• forecasting
• wave breaking and currents