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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods
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Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 28 February 2025 | Viewed by 4091

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Maxim E. Darvin

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Fraunhofer Institute for Photonic Microsystems IPMS, Konrad-Zuse-Str. 1, 03046 Cottbus, Germany
Interests: skin physiology; skin barrier function; non-invasive analysis; photoprotection; antioxidants; spectroscopy; microscopy
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The penetration depth and impact of topically applied cosmetic formulations on the molecular composition and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum are essential for the quality control of cosmetic products and the efficacy of functional cosmetic ingredients on the skin. For this, non-invasive optical spectroscopic methods (such as confocal Raman microspectroscopy, multi-photon tomography, fluorescence lifetime imaging, laser scanning microscopy, and optical coherence tomography), which can be applied in vivo and ex vivo on native skin, are state of the art. High resolution, specificity for certain cosmetic substances and compartments of the stratum corneum on a molecular level, high speed, and non-invasiveness of measurements are the most important advantages.

This Special Issue will address the application of optical methods for the non-invasive determination of the penetration depth effect of cosmetic formulations or functional cosmetic ingredients on the stratum corneum (skin–cosmetic interactions), including, but not limited to, skin barrier function, skin hydration, moisturization, and imaging (“optical biopsy”).

We encourage researchers from academia and industry to submit original or review manuscripts and look forward to receiving your contributions.

Dr. Maxim E. Darvin
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Raman microspectroscopy
  • two-photon tomography
  • FLIM
  • laser scanning microscopy
  • optical coherence tomography
  • in vivo
  • skin barrier function
  • skin hydration
  • moisturization
  • functional cosmetic ingredients

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Further information on MDPI's Special Issue polices can be found here.

Published Papers (2 papers)

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Research

13 pages, 3861 KiB  
Article
Research on the Correlation Between Skin Elasticity Evaluation Parameters and Age
by Dandan Chen, Shipeng Yin, Xuelian Lu, Haokun Fu, Hongqi Gao and Suning Zhang
Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060205 - 26 Nov 2024
Viewed by 800
Abstract
This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to [...] Read more.
This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to 70. Key Results: The findings indicate that relaxation phase parameters, particularly biological elasticity (R7), exhibited the strongest negative correlation with age (r = −0.62), signifying a notable decline in biological elasticity as women age. In contrast, maximum deformation during the first cycle (R0) and the total area under the upper curve after 10 cycles of deformation (F4) also showed significant negative correlations with age (r = −0.47, r = −0.48), suggesting that younger skin typically presents higher values. These correlations raise questions regarding practical applications, as the presence of moisturizers and emollients may alter the stratum corneum’s properties, thus impacting these measurements. Additionally, the ratio of delayed deformation to instantaneous deformation (R6) demonstrated a positive correlation with age (r = 0.49), indicating its potential as a marker for skin aging. Conclusions: This study highlights the critical role of relaxation phase parameters in accurately reflecting skin elasticity changes associated with aging. The results offer valuable insights for evaluating cosmetic efficacy, reinforcing the need for a nuanced understanding of how various parameters interact. These findings contribute to the ongoing development of more effective anti-aging treatments and products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods)
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23 pages, 4223 KiB  
Article
Topical Peroxisome Proliferator-Activated Receptor Agonist Induces Molecular Alterations Enhancing Barrier Function and Water-Holding Capacity of the Human Stratum Corneum In Vivo
by Maxim E. Darvin, Andrew Salazar, Johannes Schleusener, Jürgen Lademann and Jörg von Hagen
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 44; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020044 - 14 Mar 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2218
Abstract
The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and [...] Read more.
The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). By comparing verum and placebo groups post-treatment, we demonstrate (via lipidomic analysis of tape strips) an unstatistically significant trend toward an increase in long-chain triacylglycerols (C50–C56) and medium- and long-chain ceramides (C42–C50) at the superficial SC. By comparing treated and untreated skin using confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we found that the changes in lipid composition in the verum group led to a significant increase in the number of trans conformers and orthorhombic organisation of lipids at the exemplary SC depth. An increase in unfolded states in the secondary and tertiary keratin structures results in an increased ability to bind water. The concentrations of tightly and strongly bound water increase, while weakly bound and unbound water decrease in the entire SC, indicating a transformation of water mobility to a state of increased hydrogen bonding. Thus, the topical PPAR ligands improve the water-holding capacity and the barrier function of the SC. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Non-invasive Sensing of Skin–Cosmetic Interactions Using Optical Methods)
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