Cosmetics, Volume 9, Issue 5 (October 2022) – 20 articles

Tranexamic acid (TXA) has anti-plasmin activity and has been shown when administered orally to be effective against melasma, for which it is considered first-line pharmacotherapy. Several studies have shown that topically applied TXA is also effective against melasma and skin hyperpigmentation caused by sunburn and inflammation. The TXA concentration in the epidermis and dermis/vasculature has been estimated from its distribution in the skin after closed application, and topically applied TXA has thus been shown to act on neutrophils and mast cells in the dermis and on the vascular system. It is unlikely that topically applied TXA acts on dermal neutrophils or mast cells or on the vascular system to form thrombi. As discussed in the present review, studies on the effects of topical TXA on the hyperpigmentation process indicate that the resulting skin-lightening mechanism involves the suppression of cytokine/chemical mediator production, which stimulates melanin production via the keratinocyte-derived urokinase-type plasminogen activator and plasminogen derived from dermal vascular in the basal layer of the epidermis, thereby suppressing the production of excessive melanin to prevent hyperpigmentation. Full article

Cosmetic formulations have evolved significantly over the years. These are no longer viewed merely as beauty-enhancing products. Rather, they are expected to deliver additional benefits to the skin that positively affect the skin health. There is a renewed interest in using herbal extracts and herbal ingredients in cosmetic products since they offer several advantages over synthetic ingredients. Evaluating the cosmetic ingredients for their efficacy and safety is critical during product development. Several regulatory bodies impose restrictions on using animals for testing these ingredients in cosmetic products. This has increased the need for developing novel cell-based or cell-free biological assays. The current article systematically presents in-vitro/cell-based and/or cell-free strategies for validating the efficacies of cosmetic ingredients for skin health and hair growth. The article focuses on details about various assays for the anti-acne effects, hair-growth-promoting activities, anti-aging activities, skin-rejuvenating properties, wound-healing effects, and skin-depigmentation activities of natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Full article

Microalgae are a valuable source of enzymes and active ingredients due to their biochemical variability, health-beneficial properties, lower production cost and viability on an industrial scale. In addition, the growing demand for sustainable products constitutes microalgae as a viable resource for the development of a range of innovative products. In the present work, the proteolytic activity of Arthrospira platensis lysate was assessed and characterized using kinetics analysis and zymography employing different substrates, pH values and divalent ions. The results suggest the presence of two main proteolytic enzymes in the lysate. In addition, a rapid and easy purification protocol of the proteolytic activity, under mild conditions, was developed using a polyethyleneglycol (PEG)/phosphate aqueous two-phase system (ATPS). The proteolytic activity of A. platensis lysate was used to develop a hydrogel formulation as an enzyme-based cosmeceutical, with potential application as a topical exfoliating agent. The incorporation of the A. platensis extract in the developed hydrogel formulation significantly improved its operational stability over time, which is a significant advantage in enzyme-based product development. Full article

Deposition plays an important role in the active delivery and efficiency of hair and skin formulations since it allows active compounds to interact with surfaces in order to achieve the product’s desired performance characteristics. Therefore, it is essential to study the surface activity and behavior of certain compounds that are frequently used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations in order to understand how they interact with relevant biological surfaces, such as hair and skin. We chose to study the surfactants and conditioning agents utilized in the formulation of conditioning shampoos, which are usually designed to be able to achieve the deposition of these substances on the hair and scalp to provide lubrication and better conditioning for hair fibers, facilitating detangling and providing a better feel. In this study, cationic polymer and salt fractions were varied to obtain eighteen different conditioning shampoo formulations in which the deposition was measured by utilizing a nanoplasmonic sensing technology instrument. Moreover, a wet combing test was performed for each of the formulations to investigate if there was any correlation between the combing force and the surface deposition. The complete study was performed using a sustainable anionic surfactant in order to compare the results with those obtained from the traditional formulations. Full article

Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) cases are continuing to rise around the world, with more than 607 million confirmed cases and more than 6.51 million deaths as of September 2022. The World Health Organization (WHO) has emphasized the importance of hygiene in the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, especially in elderly and bedridden patients. The use of no-rinse shampoo represents a simple change in hair-cleansing products. Daily hospital hair washing for the elderly, bedridden, and ICU patients would be more readily adopted. The objective of this study was to design and optimize a new no-rinse shampoo based on electrochemically reduced water (ERW) using response surface methodology. The relationship between coconut-based surfactant mixtures in a no-rinse shampoo and the resulting physicochemical properties, effectiveness (antibacterial and antifungal activity), and stability of the shampoo was investigated. The vesicle size, size distribution, zeta potential, conductivity, pH, foamability, wetting time, turbidity, and stability of the model formulation were optimized. The optimal formulation with the appropriate physicochemical properties and stability was selected. The effectiveness of the optimal formulation was compared to that of commercially available products. The dry shampoo (DS4) containing 3.5% of the mixed detergent with ERW may prevent infection by Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans. The no-rinse shampoo based on ERW successfully demonstrated good stability in addition to efficacy in terms of antibacterial and antifungal activity. The treated hair fiber was not significantly different from that of the intact hair fiber. Under the scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and the atomic force microscopy (AFM), the cuticle layer of the treated hair fiber was not damaged. Thus, no-rinse shampoos may reduce the time of hair rinsing and improve the quality of life of caregivers. Full article

The Eupatorium plant has been well used in medication and as a decorative plant. Some studies have reported that this herb has biochemical compounds, such as sesquiterpenes, phenolics, polysaccharides, and pyrrolizidine alkaloids. Thus, it has pharmacological effects, including antifungal, antibacterial, cytotoxic, and antinociceptive properties, that can be utilized for cosmetic purposes. However, only a few published works have summarized the active compounds and the application of Eupatorium plants as cosmetic agents. Therefore, this article aims to review the application of Eupatorium plants as a potential cosmetic agent. The active compounds of Eupatorium are contained in the whole plant, as well as the stems, leaves, roots, and aerial parts (flower, fruit, and seeds). In terms of cosmetic applications, the activities of Eupathorium are antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-melanin/melanogenesis, anti-acne, and anti-inflammatory. This review aims to contribute to a better understanding for expanding the utilization of this plant for cosmetic purposes by using these active compounds. Full article

A method was set up and validated to identify and quantify seven parabens in each of the three skin layers, i.e., Stratum Corneum, Epidermis, and Dermis, because, even if only some analogues are legally allowed in Europe, forbidden parabens are also detected in many personal care products and therefore can be absorbed by the skin. A solid/liquid extraction followed by a gradient elution chromatographic separation method was performed and validated according to European guidelines. Our validated method afforded the detection of all seven parabens with limit of detection values ranging from 0.026 to 0.090 μg mL⁻¹ and recoveries ranging from 61.80 to 105.73 μg mL⁻¹ at high and low concentration values (50.0–5.0 μg mL⁻¹), respectively. The proposed method can help assess paraben’s skin bioaccumulation since people are repeatedly exposed to consumer goods containing parabens in their daily routine, posing a chronic risk to human health. Full article

Consumers have become more open to the use of natural cosmetics. The production of natural cosmetics has grown in recent years because of demand from consumers who are concerned about skin health, product quality, and beauty. The presence of harmful chemicals in cosmetics has made consumers realize the importance of being “natural”. This paper focused on identifying the factors that influence Indian consumers’ purchase intentions and purchase behavior towards natural cosmetics. The theory of planned behavior (TPB) was used to study the purchase intentions and purchase behavior of male and female consumers of natural cosmetics. In India, there has, in recent years, been a growing demand among males for cosmetics and specifically natural cosmetics. We studied the differences between male and female consumers’ purchase intentions and purchase behaviors by using the structural equation modeling of SmartPLS 3.0. A study of 335 women and men in India revealed that Attitude towards Environment and Natural Cosmetics had a positive influence on Purchase Intention and, subsequently, Purchase Behavior. There was also a positive influence of Perceived Behavioral Control on Purchase Intention. Product Knowledge had an indirect impact on Purchase Intention through Attitude towards Environment and Natural Cosmetics, as well as an indirect impact on Purchase Behavior through Purchase Intention. Subjective Norms was the only factor that did not have a significant positive impact on Purchase Intention and Purchase Behavior. However, the influences of the variables on Purchase Intention and Purchase Behavior did not differ between male and female consumers, thereby offering evidence of the similarity between men and women in their natural cosmetics purchase behavior. Full article

Cryotherapy is becoming an increasingly popular method used in medicine, physiotherapy, and cosmetology. It is used in the form of whole-body cryotherapy (WBC) and local cryotherapy. It is a tool for achieving analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects. Since the beginning of its use, its influence on the mental state has also been pointed out. The aim of this study was to analyze the available literature on the effect of cryogenic temperatures on the skin and the mechanisms induced by such a stimulus and its influence on well-being. A literature search of keywords or phrases was performed in PubMed^®. Various effects of WBC on skin characteristics (hydration, pH, level of transepidermal water loss), mechanisms of anti-inflammatory effects, and effects on adipocytes were shown. Research on the impact of individual skin characteristics is not consistent. Positive effects on the reduction of inflammation and oxidative stress have been noted. Cryotherapy is also successfully used in dermatology to treat lentil spots, actinic keratosis, and ingrown toenails, remove viral warts, or relieve itching in atopic dermatitis. The results of the review also indicate the effectiveness of WBC as an adjunctive treatment for obesity. The number of papers available on the direct effects of WBC on the skin is still limited, despite the fact that it represents the first contact of the human body with cryogenic temperatures. Available data show that cold as a physical stimulus can be a safe and useful tool in cosmetology. Full article

The cosmetic industry has an undeniable need to design and develop new ecosustainable products to respond to the demands of consumers and international regulations. This requires substituting some traditional ingredients derived from petrochemical sources with new ones with more ecofriendly profiles. However, this transition towards the use of green ingredients in the cosmetic industry cannot compromise the effectiveness of the obtained products. Emerging ingredients in this new direction of the cosmetic industry are chitosan and its derivatives, which combine many interesting physicochemical and biological properties for the fabrication of cosmetic products. Thus, the use of chitosan opens a promising future path to the design of cosmetic formulations. In particular, chitosan’s ability for interacting electrostatically with negatively charged substrates (e.g., skin or damaged hair), resulting in the formation of polymeric films which contribute to the conditioning and moisturizing of cosmetic substrates, makes this polymer an excellent candidate for the design of skin and hair care formulations. This review tries to provide an updated perspective on the potential interest of chitosan and its derivatives as ingredients of cosmetics for skin and hair care. Full article

(1) Background: Environmental factors, such as airborne pollutants and solar UV, induce oxidative damage to proteins and lipids on hair fibers, leading to decreased hair strength and shine, increased fiber porosity, brittleness, dryness, and stiffness. Traditional methods used for hair damage/protection/reparation assessment show limitations in sensitivity or specificity for evidencing the benefits to be gained from the protection/reparation of hair fibers against environmental stressors. (2) Methods: Ex vivo experimental models of hair fibers exposed to urban pollutants and UV irradiation were developed. Targeted proteomics approaches for the quantification of oxidatively damaged (carbonylated) proteins on hair fibers were optimized. (3) Results: A significant dose-dependent increase in carbonylation both in the cuticle and cortex proteins was observed upon exposure of hair fibers to particulate matter and UV-A radiation, at daily stress equivalent doses. Increased protein carbonylation on keratins and keratin-associated proteins led to loss of hair fiber structural integrity. The oxidative modification of proteins induced by urban pollution exposure led to hair cuticle structural damage revealed by an increased permeability. However, protein carbonylation was prevented in the presence of antioxidant compounds. (4) Conclusions: Protein carbonylation is an early event in hair fiber damage which can be used as a reliable biomarker for the efficacy of hair care interventions against environmental stressors. Full article

Nowadays, consumers’ well-being plays a decisive role in the purchase of cosmetic products. Although factors influencing consumers’ well-being are very subjective, companies strive to develop their products in such a way that a positive effect is likely. Therefore, methods are required to objectively explore and scientifically prove the product’s performance on humans. In this placebo-controlled study, a method was developed to evaluate relaxation or stress relief associated with one olfactory ingredient of a cosmetic product (face cream). Our experimental protocol included product testing in 25 healthy females, while an emotion questionnaire, analysis of saliva samples regarding the concentration of the hormones cortisol and α-amylase and mobile EEG measurement for quantification of the alpha brain waves before and after stress induction were conducted. It was shown that with this experimental design, the sample with the ingredient produced significant stress relief, as evidenced by significantly less negative emotion, significantly lowered cortisol levels and showed a trend towards a significant increase in alpha activity compared to placebo application. Our data provide evidence that this method is suitable for analyzing the differences between the two samples. In the future, this method can be utilized in the current or a further optimized form to evaluate the psychophysiological effects of cosmetic products on humans. Full article

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia^® complexion analysis, FitSkin^® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty. Full article

Telomere length, a hallmark of cellular senescence, decreases with age and is associated with age-related diseases. Environmental factors, including dietary and lifestyle factors, can affect the rate at which telomeres shorten, and telomere protection prevents this from happening. The protection of telomeres by natural molecules has been proposed as an antiaging strategy that may play a role in treating age-related diseases. This study investigated the effect of a cycloartane-type triterpene glycoside (astragaloside IV). Astragaloside IV is one of the primary compounds from the aqueous extract of Astragalus membranaceus, and it provides telomere protection both in vitro and in vivo. In a study cohort with 13 participants, telomere length in human skin samples was analyzed after daily treatment for 4 weeks. A comparison of the average median telomere length between the treatment and control groups (5342 bp vs. 4616 bp p = 0.0168) showed significant results. In the second clinical cohort with 20 participants, skin parameters at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks were measured in vivo. The results show that the product improved hydration by 95%, the skin appeared brighter by 90%, and wrinkle visibility was reduced by 70%. The combination of biologically active compounds in the cream possesses telomere-protecting properties and notable antioxidant activity in vitro and in vivo. Full article

In this study, four Moroccan plants, Halimium antiatlanticum, Adenocarpus artemisiifolius, Pistacia lentiscus and Leonotis nepetifolia, were evaluated for their phytoconstituents and biological activities. Methanolic extracts of these plants were obtained by Soxhlet apparatus, phytochemical screening was performed, and the total phenolic and flavonoid contents were determined. Then, the antioxidant and dermocosmetic activities of the methanolic extracts were evaluated. The obtained results revealed that the leaves and/or aerial parts contained tannins, polyphenols, flavonoids, coumarins, carotenoids, terpenoids and saponins. The higher total phenolic content values were recorded on Pistacia lentiscus and Halimium antiatlanticum with 396.64 ± 30.79 and 304.96 ± 55.61 mgGAE/gDW, respectively. The antioxidant activity was measured by DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assays, and showed that Pistacia lentiscus and Halimium antiatlanticum were the most active extracts, with, respectively, IC50 values of 3.705 ± 0.445 and 5.037 ± 0.122 µg/mL for DPPH. The same results were observed for the FRAP and ABTS assays. Those extracts also showed a strong collagenase inhibitory activity at 200 µg/mL, with 78.51 ± 2.27% for Pistacia lentiscus and 73.10 ± 8.52% for Halimium antiatlanticum. Adenocarpus artemisiifolius showed the highest elastase inhibition rate, with 76.30 ± 5.29%. This study disclosed the dermocosmetic potential of Halimium antiatlanticum and Adenocarpus artemisiifolius, two Moroccan endemic plants that can be traditionally used by local populations or exploited by the cosmetic industry. Full article

Burns are highly traumatizing injuries that can be complicated by various microbial infections, leading to morbidity and mortality. The ultimate goal of burn therapy is to prevent any microbial infection and rapid wound healing with epithelization. The current study aimed to develop and investigate the potential of nanoemulsion-based cosmetotherapeutic lotion of silver sulfadiazine (SSD) for increased antimicrobial activity to treat burn injuries. Silver sulfadiazine is the standard topical treatment for burn patients, but is allied with major limitations of poor solubility, low bioavailability, and other hematologic effects, hindering its pharmaceutical applications. The nanoformulation was fabricated through the ultrasonication technique and optimized by selecting various parameters and concentrations for the formation of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion. The optimized formulation depicts a smaller particle size of 213 nm with an encapsulation efficiency of approx. 80%. Further, nanoemulsion-based SSD lotion by utilizing argan oil as a cosmetotherapeutic agent was prepared for scar massaging with improved permeation properties. The designed cosmeceutical formulation was characterized in terms of physical appearance, refractive index, particle size, encapsulation efficiency, and biocompatibility. The compatibility of the formulation ingredients were determined through FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy). The formulated nanolotion containing SSD demonstrated superior antimicrobial activities against different bacterial strains in comparison to commercialized burn creams. Full article

Inflammatory skin conditions are prevalent in the general population and are a source of much concern for those who suffer from them. Acne is an extremely common condition and can significantly impact the quality of life of affected patients. Rosacea is another common dermatological disorder that often affects the face and can present with flushing, irritated skin, and pimples. In addition to being key for acne and rosacea, inflammation can also play a role in prematurely aging skin and contributes to the formation of wrinkles. Given the prevalence and patient impact of dermatological conditions on the face, such as those previously described, there is a demand for personalized medicines to manage these conditions when commercially available options are unsuitable, unavailable, or insufficient to fully resolve the condition. When designing an appropriate personalized therapy for a patient, both the vehicle and the active pharmaceutical ingredient choices are key to the success of the treatment. Cleoderm™ is a topical cream designed for use as a vehicle for the preparation of dermatological treatments by compounding pharmacies. Its ingredient profile was specifically curated to be gentle on the skin, allowing its use as a vehicle for compounded preparations that may be applied to sensitive and affected skin. In this bracketed study, benzoyl peroxide, cyproterone acetate, estriol, metronidazole, niacinamide, progesterone, retinoic acid, spironolactone, and tranexamic acid were selected, due to their known applications for dermatological skin conditions. To evaluate the compatibility and stability of Cleoderm™ in these formulations, high-performance liquid chromatography, followed by antimicrobial effectiveness testing, were performed for 180 days. For most formulations, a beyond-use date of 180 days was observed when stored at room temperature, except for retinoic acid, which had a beyond-use date of 30 days. Through the outcomes of this study, we concluded that Cleoderm™ presents increased convenience for both the compounding pharmacist and the patient, suggesting that it is an adequate candidate vehicle for compounding different dermatological formulations with adequate stability, presenting itself as a good alternative to commercially available treatments that cannot be personalized. Full article

Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. The main sources of stilbenoids are plants. Although plants are green and sustainable source materials, some of them do not allow a regular and constant supply due to seasonal and geographic reasons. Stilbenoids typically have been extracted by conventional organic solvent extraction, and then purified by separation techniques. This method is unfriendly to the environment and may deteriorate human health. Hence, the procedures called “green technologies” are focused on novel extraction methods and sustainable stilbenoids production by using biotechnology. In this review, the chemical structures together with the biosynthesis and current plant sources of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and piceatannol are described. Furthermore, recent natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) for green extraction as well as plant cell cultures for the production of those stilbene compounds are updated. Full article

Almost a decade after the stipulated deadline in the 7th amendment to the EU Cosmetics Directive, which bans the marketing of animal-tested cosmetics in the EU from 2013, animal experimentation for cosmetic-related purposes remains a topic of animated debate. Cosmetic industry continues to be scrutinised for the practice, despite its leading role in funding and adopting innovation in this field. This paper aims to provide a state-of-the-art review of the field on alternative testing methods, also known as New Approach Methodologies (NAMs), with the focus on assessing the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products. It starts with innovation drivers and global regulatory responses, followed by an extensive, endpoint-specific overview of accepted/prospective NAMs. The overview covers main developments in acute toxicity, skin corrosion/irritation, serious eye damage/irritation, skin sensitisation, repeated dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity/endocrine disruption, mutagenicity/genotoxicity, carcinogenicity, photo-induced toxicity, and toxicokinetics. Specific attention was paid to the emerging in silico methodology. This paper also provides a brief overview of the studies on public perception of animal testing in cosmetics. It concludes with a view that educating consumers and inviting them to take part in advocacy could be an effective tool to achieve policy changes, regulatory acceptance, and investment in innovation. Full article

Phusang warm pond or Phusang hot spring (Thailand) has a temperature of approximately 36–38 °C and may be suitable for bacterial growth. However, data on the microbiota and effectiveness of this water remain obscure. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the characteristics of Phusang hot spring water by clarifying the microorganisms and viral pathogens present. Cytotoxicity, irritation, liposome uptake, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects were evaluated. The levels of trace elements such as sodium (Na), calcium (Ca), and strontium (Sr) were confirmed. Phusang hot spring water was nontoxic to L-929 cells and HDFa cells and was nonirritating to human phototypes I to IV at 48 h. The antimicrobial effects of Phusang hot spring water on S.aureus, S. epidermidis, B. subtilis and E. coli were not detected using the agar well diffusion assay. Phusang hot spring water decreased interleukin-6 (IL-6) expression at 24 h compared with (PBS) and untreated controls, as measured using semi qRT–PCR and ELISA. Phusang hot spring water combined with curcumin-loaded liposomes exerted antiaging effects, suggesting their benefits for application in cosmetic products. The bacteriophage families Myoviridae, Siphoviridae and Podoviridae were detected, but not HPV or EBV. Trace elements such as Na and Ca were present. Therefore, the importance of this study is that Phusang hot spring water exerts anti-inflammatory effects via IL-6, is nontoxic and nonirritating, and might be used for balneotherapy or as a cosmetic ingredient under sterile conditions. Full article