Search Results (1,337)

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves senescence-related phenotypes in vitro. However, its effects on human skin aging have not been investigated. In this study, we conducted both in vitro and clinical trials using an M. officinalis liquid extract, which can be directly applied to cosmetic formulations. The M. officinalis liquid extract restored mitochondrial function and reduced mitochondria-enriched ROS production. Furthermore, M. officinalis liquid extract activated mitophagy, which removes defective mitochondria, a major source of ROS production. In clinical trials, the M. officinalis liquid extract reduced the mean depth of neck wrinkles by 12.73% and the maximum depth by 17.44%. It also reduced the mean roughness (Ra), root mean square roughness (Rq), and maximum depth of roughness (Rmax) by 12.73%, 10.16%, and 10.81%, respectively. Furthermore, the key to the skin-improving effects of M. officinalis liquid extract lies in its ability to increase skin elasticity by 3.76% and brighten skin tone by 0.76%. In conclusion, this study identified a novel mechanism by which M. officinalis liquid extract rejuvenates skin aging. M. officinalis can be utilized as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin aging and therapeutic candidate for the development of anti-aging treatments. Full article

Wild seeds constitute a taxonomically diverse and underexplored reservoir of C18-series bioactive fatty acids (BFAs) with significant nutritional, biomedical, and industrial relevance. This review integrates current knowledge on their lipid composition, metabolic architecture, and potential applications. Numerous wild taxa accumulate high levels of oleic, linoleic, α-linolenic, γ-linolenic, and stearidonic acids, while others synthesise structurally specialised compounds such as punicic, petroselinic, and sciadonic acids. These FAs, together with tocopherols, phytosterols, and phenolics, underpin antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and cardiometabolic effects supported by in vitro and in vivo evidence. The occurrence of these unusual lipids reflects lineage-specific modulation of plastidial and endoplasmic-reticulum pathways, including differential activities of SAD, FAD2/3, Δ6- and Δ5-desaturases, elongases, and acyl-editing enzymes that determine the final acyl-CoA and TAG pools. Wild seed oils show strong potential for translation into functional foods, targeted nutraceuticals, pharmacologically relevant lipid formulations, cosmetic ingredients, and bio-based materials. However, their exploitation is constrained by ecological sustainability, oxidative instability of PUFA-rich matrices, antinutritional constituents, and regulatory requirements for novel lipid sources. This review positions wild seeds as high-value, underused lipid resources with direct relevance to health and sustainability. It underscores their potential to enhance nutritional security and offer alternatives to conventional oil crops. Full article

Plant-derived exosome-like extracellular vesicles (PELVs) have recently emerged as novel bioactive materials. Although members of the Orchidaceae family have been reported to possess various biological activities and are widely used as cosmetic ingredients, no studies to date have investigated exosome-like extracellular vesicles derived from Phalaenopsis species. In the present study, we report for the first time a novel exosome-like extracellular vesicles preparation isolated from Phalaenopsis aphrodite (called Exorigin^® OR) and characterize its physical and biological properties. The purified vesicles exhibited a spherical shape surrounded by a bilayered membrane with an average particle size of approximately 98 nm and expressed a CD9 marker. Fluorescent labeling with BODIPY TR indicated that Exorigin^® OR can be internalized by cells. In in vitro assays, Exorigin^® OR alleviated hydrogen peroxide-induced damage in keratinocytes and inhibited melanin production in melanocytes, possibly associated with the downregulation of Tyrp1 expression as shown by qPCR analysis. Moreover, reconstructed human epidermis and cornea-like epithelium models demonstrated that Exorigin^® OR is non-irritant. Collectively, these findings suggest that Exorigin^® OR represent a promising and safe bioactive ingredient for promoting skin health in cosmeceutical applications. Full article

Fruit shrubs’ lignocellulosic biomass remaining as waste after harvesting and/or after pruning is an underutilized, little-explored bioresource. Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.), aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) and blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) berries are rich in biologically active compounds, so these shrubs’ woody biomass derivatives are prospective investigation objects. The influence of pre-treated biomass, extracts, and purified proanthocyanidins on the oxidative stability of lipid-based systems was studied by accelerated oxidation method. Emulsion stability, antimicrobial activity against bacteria that causes acne—Cutibacterium acnes; contaminating wounds; skin care products—Streptococcus pyogenes, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Bacillus cereus; cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of extracts and proanthocyanidins on HaCaT human keratinocytes were tested. The study established that biomass, lipophilic extracts obtained using liquefied hydrofluorocarbon, and hydrophilic extracts obtained by aqueous ethanol increased oxidative stability of lipid-based formulations. Compounds with skin-protecting properties were detected. Sea buckthorn and aronia hydrophilic extracts and proanthocyanidins had the highest antimicrobial activity. Low phototoxicity was revealed, emphasizing safety and applicability in topical formulations; human HaCaT keratinocyte viability was the best with aronia extracts, but none of the other samples decreased cell viability by more than 50%. It was proven that agro-waste biomass is a prospective source of multifunctional ingredients for cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical formulations. Full article

The pursuit of fine chemicals from natural sources is advancing rapidly, driven by a growing demand for safe, sustainable, and high-performance ingredients in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Emerging extraction and biotransformation technologies, including enzyme-assisted procedures, precision fermentation, and green solvent systems, are enabling the selective recovery of complex molecules with enhanced purity and stability. Simultaneously, AI-guided approaches to the discovery of bioactive compounds are accelerating the identification of multifunctional molecules exhibiting, for example, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or microbiome-modulating activities. These developments not only expand the chemical diversity accessible to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors but also promote the adoption of circular bioeconomy frameworks. Together, they define a new generation of natural fine chemicals with strong potential for targeted therapeutic and cosmetic applications. Accordingly, this commentary focuses on emerging trends and key technological advances in the use of renewable, natural sources for the production of fine chemicals relevant to cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. It further highlights the critical roles of biotechnology, green chemistry, and digital innovation in shaping a more sustainable future for cosmetic and pharmaceutical chemistry. Full article

The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively natural ingredients and a microbial biosurfactant produced by Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 as a surface-active component. The biosurfactant was combined with renewable anionic and nonionic surfactants, conditioning agents, natural oils and butters, and minimal water content to obtain a compact, solid formulation. The shampoo was produced through a controlled multi-phase process and subsequently characterized by physicochemical, microbiological, toxicological, and performance analyses. The formulation exhibited stable pH values suitable for pet skin, low moisture content, absence of free alkalinity, high solid content, and satisfactory foaming capacity. Cleaning efficiency tests demonstrated effective removal of artificial sebum from pet fur while preserving softness and shine. Microbiological assays confirmed the absence of bacterial and fungal contamination, and toxicological evaluations revealed no cytotoxicity and low eye irritation potential. In addition, the shampoo showed 100% biodegradability and maintained physicochemical and organoleptic stability over six months of storage. Overall, the results demonstrate that the developed solid shampoo represents an innovative, safe, and biodegradable alternative that reduces water consumption and plastic packaging, contributing to sustainable development in the pet cosmetics sector. Full article

Achieving optimal skin penetration with bioactive cosmetic ingredients, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), presents ongoing challenges. This study introduces a novel elastosome-based EGF delivery system co-loading dexpanthenol, which achieves superior skin penetration and multifunctional cosmetic efficacy compared with a conventional liposome formulation. The EGF FLEXIR-SOME formulation was characterized to determine its physicochemical properties measured for comparison against a conventional liposome control. Efficacy and safety were confirmed through in vitro and in vivo evaluations, including clinical trials of the formulation and primary skin irritation tests. The formulated EGF FLEXIR-SOME particles exhibited an average diameter of 124.8 nm and a zeta potential of −57.53 mV, demonstrating enhanced stability and skin penetration relative to the control. The results of clinical trials confirmed significant efficacy in anti-aging, moisture, skin barrier improvement, and hyperpigmentation reduction. Additionally, primary skin irritation tests classified the product as a non-irritant. In conclusion, an elastosome-based EGF formulation significantly enhances skin penetration and bioavailability. The formulation effectively improves skin elasticity, hydration, and barrier function while simultaneously reducing visible signs of aging and pigmentation. This study successfully developed an innovative formulation utilizing elastosome technology, maximizing the transdermal efficiency and stability of EGF, thereby offering a novel strategy for functional cosmeceutical development. Full article

Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AD-MSCs) secrete various growth factors that activate skin cells. This study investigated the effects of crude extracts and isolated compounds, hitorin A and hitorin B, from Chloranthus quadrifolius on AD-MSCs. The crude extract and hitorins A and B obtained from C. quadrifolius promoted cell proliferation. Furthermore, they suppressed the accumulation of excessive lipid droplets and reduced the expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ, CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein alpha, and adiponectin. The extract and hitorins A and B increased the expression of stemness marker genes, including SRY-box transcription factor 2, homeobox protein NANOG, and octamer-binding transcription factor 4. For anti-aging effects, the crude extract and hitorins A and B significantly inhibited senescence-associated-β-galactosidase activity and the gene expression of p16, p21, and p53 under hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress. Additionally, they suppressed the production of intracellular reactive oxygen species and the gene expression of interleukin-6 and interleukin-8. These findings indicate that crude extracts and hitorins A and B derived from C. quadrifolius suppress excessive adipogenic differentiation, promote cell proliferation while enhancing stem cell characteristics, and reduce oxidative stress-induced cellular aging through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. These results suggest that they are effective cosmetic ingredients for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging. Full article

The growing demand for effective skincare products that can effectively target specific dermatological concerns has accelerated the development of advanced delivery technologies. Among them, nanocarrier-based topical delivery systems have gained significant attention for their ability to enhance the performance of skincare formulations. Acting as versatile delivery tools, nanocarriers not only stabilize and protect sensitive cosmetic ingredients but also improve their penetration through the skin barrier and enable controlled, sustained, or targeted release. Therefore, this review focuses on the recent achievements of nanocarrier-based topical delivery technology for skincare applications, which systematically summarizes the design principles, mechanisms and functional characteristics of diverse nano-based delivery platforms, including vesicular nanocarriers, lipid-based nanocarriers, emulsion-based nanocarriers, polymeric nanocarriers, inorganic nanoparticles, and inclusion complexes. Meanwhile, these nanocarriers are discussed according to their relevance to the pathogenesis of prevalent skin disorders, highlighting how tailored nanocarriers can address specific therapeutic or cosmetic needs. Overall, this review emphasizes the emerging trends and future perspectives of nanotechnology-based topical delivery systems in modern cosmetology, offering more opportunities for precise, effective and science-driven cosmetic solutions. Full article

Aquafaba, the cooking liquid of legumes, has recently shifted from being a discarded waste stream to a valuable functional ingredient due to its emulsifying and foaming properties. This study addresses two sustainability challenges: reducing the environmental impacts associated with animal-based ingredients in the food sector and decreasing the reliance on petrochemical-derived ingredients in cosmetic formulations. A life cycle assessment approach was applied using two functional units to represent different applications: 100 g of powdered aquafaba for cosmetic use and 100 g of liquid aquafaba with stabilizing additives for food use. Three allocation scenarios were evaluated to reflect different production contexts: baseline, zero burden and economic allocation based on co-product value. The results show that powdered aquafaba used in cosmetics has higher environmental impacts than conventional petrochemical emulsifiers, mainly due to the energy demand of the spray-drying process. In contrast, liquid aquafaba used in food applications exhibits significantly lower environmental impacts than egg-based alternatives. Overall, the environmental performance of aquafaba strongly depends on processing intensity and allocation assumptions. Full article

Ceramides are central to stratum corneum barrier organization and hydration. Beyond topical replenishment, ceramide-stimulating strategies increasingly aim to enhance endogenous ceramide biosynthesis, processing, and homeostatic remodeling in coordination with keratinocyte differentiation. In this review, we summarize the three major metabolic routes that shape epidermal ceramide output—de novo synthesis, salvage, and sphingomyelin hydrolysis—and organize representative bioactive ingredients by their primary molecular targets rather than by origin. Specifically, we map ingredients to tractable regulatory nodes, including transcriptional “liposensors” (PPAR/LXR), the induction of biosynthetic/elongation and processing enzymes (e.g., SPT, CerS3, ELOVL4), the provision of structural substrates and precursors (e.g., linoleate-rich lipids and glycosylceramides), salvage-pathway sphingoid bases that can reshape ceramide subclass output, and metabolic sensing/stress-response pathways centered on AMPK–mTOR–SIRT1/autophagy. Across these mechanisms, agents spanning botanical and fermented extracts, vitamins, sphingoid intermediates, lipid precursors, and pathway modulators (including autophagy-focused probes) have been reported to increase ceramide abundance and, in some contexts, favor barrier-relevant ultra-long-chain species and ω-O-acylceramides that support lamellar organization and the corneocyte lipid envelope. Translational and clinical studies in dry, sensitive, and aged skin generally associate such interventions with improved barrier function and reduced dryness. Aligning ingredient selection with defined biosynthetic and processing checkpoints—and verifying outcomes with lipidomics alongside clinical endpoints—may accelerate the development of evidence-based, ceramide-stimulating cosmetics. Full article

The cosmetics industry is experiencing dynamic growth, which poses significant environmental challenges, primarily due to the accumulation of cosmetic ingredients in aquatic and soil ecosystems. In response, sustainable solutions aligned with the principles of the circular economy and the concept of “clean beauty” are increasingly sought. One promising approach is the use of bioferments obtained through the fermentation of plant raw materials from the Asteraceae family as alternatives to conventional extracts in cosmetic formulations. This literature review provides up-to-date insights into the biotechnological transformation of Asteraceae plants into cosmetic bioferments, with particular emphasis on fermentation processes enabling enzymatic hydrolysis of glycosylated flavonoids into aglycones, followed by their conversion into low-molecular-weight phenolic acids. These compounds exhibit improved local skin penetration (i.e., higher local bioavailability within the epidermal barrier) compared to their parent glycosides, thereby enhancing antioxidant activity. The analysis includes evidence-based data on the enzymatic hydrolysis of glycosidic flavonoids into free aglycones and their subsequent conversion into low-molecular-weight phenolic acids, which exhibit improved antioxidant potential compared to unfermented extracts. Furthermore, this narrative review highlights the role of lactic acid bacteria and yeast in producing bioferments enriched with bioactive metabolites, including lactic acid (acting as a natural moisturizing factor and preservative), while emphasizing their biodegradability and contribution to minimizing the environmental impact of cosmetics. This review aims to provide a comprehensive perspective on the technological, dermatological, and environmental aspects of Asteraceae-based bioferments, outlining their potential as sustainable and functional ingredients in modern cosmetics. Full article

Background/Objectives: Understanding how plant-derived extracts influence the rheological and sensory behavior of emulsions is crucial for developing stable and consumer-appealing formulations. Although walnut leaf extract (Juglans regia L.) is recognized for its bioactive properties, its structural impact on cosmetic emulsions has not been systematically characterized. This study aimed to investigate the effect of increasing walnut leaf extract concentration on the rheological profile, mechanical integrity during application, and sensory performance of oil-in-water creams. Methods: Four emulsion formulations (F1–F4) containing 0%, 1%, 3%, and 5% walnut leaf extract were prepared using Olivem 1000 and Olivem 300 as emulsifiers. Rheological measurements included amplitude sweep, flow curve, frequency sweep, and thixotropy tests to assess viscoelasticity, flow behavior, and recovery. A sensory evaluation was conducted by trained panelists to correlate rheological parameters with perceived product attributes. Results: All formulations exhibited pseudoplastic, shear-thinning behavior in well-structured cosmetic emulsions during application. The addition of walnut extract significantly modified rheological responses: at 1% concentration, an increase in storage modulus (G′) and shear-thinning ratio (η₀/η∞) indicated structural reinforcement and improved spreadability, whereas higher concentrations (3–5%) led to structural softening and faster thixotropic recovery. The frequency sweep revealed a concentration-dependent shift from elastic- to viscous-dominant behavior. Sensory analysis confirmed these trends, with higher extract levels reducing stickiness and greasiness while enhancing absorption. Conclusions: Walnut leaf extract shows a concentration-dependent influence on the rheological behavior of the emulsions, strengthening the network structure at low levels while promoting softening and faster structural recovery at higher concentrations. The strong correlation between rheological and sensory parameters underscores the potential of walnut extract as a multifunctional ingredient for designing well-structured, non-greasy, and consumer-preferred cosmetic creams. Full article

Paeonia lactiflora Pall. is a perennial herbaceous plant widely renowned for its floral ornamental appeal, distinctive pleasant scent, and utilization in folk remedies. Roots and barks are traditionally used in Chinese medicine for various properties, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, anticancer, cardiovascular, and neuroprotective effects. Considering the growing interest and demand in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields for sustainable and bioactive botanical derivatives, this study aimed to apply NADES (natural deep eutectic solvents) extraction on fresh flowers of Paeonia lactiflora Pall. The purpose was to obtain a natural, multifunctional, and ready-to-use cosmetic ingredient with concurrent antioxidant activity, antimicrobial functionalities, and olfactive properties. The eutectic systems selected in this study were composed of betaine as the hydrogen bond acceptor and glycerol and/or sorbitol as the hydrogen bond donors. These eutectic systems under microwave activation led to a rapid extraction, from peony fresh flowers, of considerable phenolic amounts (from 33.0 to 34.4 mg of gallic acid equivalents per gram of fresh flowers), which confer to the whole NADES-based extract an excellent radical scavenging activity (around 87.5%, compared to Trolox) and a pleasant fragrance, due to the extraction of some characteristic volatile compounds, as confirmed by GC-MS analysis. Antimicrobial assays against different Gram-positive and Gram-negative strains demonstrated good inhibitory activity of the sample against multidrug-resistant Staphylococcus species (MIC ranging from 0.9 to 14.5 mg/mL) and against Enterococcus species (from 28.8 to 57.8 mg/mL). Furthermore, results on different Staphylococcus aureus strains disclosed additional interesting anti-biofilm properties. Preliminary long-term studies (up to 9 months) on these combined properties highlighted the stabilizing effect of NADESs on the active metabolites, confirming their potential as natural and functional ingredients that could be directly incorporated into pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations, offering enhanced efficacy and improved stability. Full article

As rapidly developing consumer products, cosmetics confront challenges regarding safety, especially hazardous ingredients, like sex hormones. Prolonged exposure to trace sex hormones in cosmetics can inflict immeasurable damage to human health. To accurately detect the trace amounts of sex hormones in cosmetics, a reliable method was developed and validated using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS) with magnetic solid-phase extraction (MSPE) and isotope-labeled internal standards (IL-ISs). The conditions of sample pretreatment, chromatography, and mass parameters were systemically investigated. In the MSPE procedure, the commercial Fe₃O₄@HLB magnetic material was employed for sample pretreatment, which was beneficial for operation, as well as sample purification and analyte enrichment. The utilization of IL-ISs compensated for potential matrix effects and losses during sample preparation, thereby improving precision and accuracy. Based on the proposed MSPE technology, UHPLC-MS/MS can address the qualitative and quantitative analysis needs for target analytes in complex cosmetic matrices. At three fortification levels, recoveries were in the range of 71.7–116.2%, with a relative standard deviation (RSD) ranging from 1.6% to 8.3%. Furthermore, based on the method proposed here, a total of 116 batches of cosmetics were analyzed, and trace progestins and estrogens were discovered in 10 samples. The MSPE method, coupled with UHPLC-MS/MS using IL-ISs, was convenient, efficient, and feasible for detecting trace amounts of sex hormones in cosmetics. The method scored 0.66 (out of 1) on the AGREE metric, confirming its green profile. Based on the detected concentrations, a preliminary safety evaluation was performed to assess the potential health risks of residual progesterone in hair loss prevention cosmetics by calculating the margin of safety (MoS). Full article