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Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition

A special issue of Applied Sciences (ISSN 2076-3417). This special issue belongs to the section "Biomedical Engineering".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 March 2025) | Viewed by 16227

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Anna Waszkielewicz

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Bioorganic Chemistry, Chair of Organic Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, Krakow, Poland
Interests: chemistry of cosmetics; organic chemistry; medicinal chemistry
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

We are pleased to invite you to contribute to our new Special Issue entitled “Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition”.

This Special Issue aims to continue gathering scientific papers on cosmetology in one place, specifically a place whose open access guarantees their popularization. The diversity of research possibilities includes chemical, biotechnological, and dermatological approaches, which we hope will provide an interesting source of knowledge for those who want to stay up to date with current cosmetology.

In this Special Issue, original research articles and reviews are welcome. Research areas may include (but are not limited to) the following:

  1. New substances in cosmetology;
  2. New approaches in cosmetics evaluation;
  3. Safety of cosmetics ingredients;
  4. Clinical trials of cosmetics.

We look forward to receiving your contributions.

Dr. Anna Waszkielewicz
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Applied Sciences is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2400 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • cosmetics ingredients
  • skin
  • permeation

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Published Papers (9 papers)

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Research

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14 pages, 2960 KiB  
Article
Overview of Active Ingredients Used in Deodorants and Antiperspirants Available on EU Market
by Urszula Kalinowska-Lis
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(9), 5068; https://doi.org/10.3390/app15095068 - 2 May 2025
Viewed by 825
Abstract
Deodorants and antiperspirants available on the market are designed to reduce the discomfort associated with sweating. This study examined the types of active substances contained in deodorants and antiperspirants from international cosmetic brands available in Poland (part of the EU market) and the [...] Read more.
Deodorants and antiperspirants available on the market are designed to reduce the discomfort associated with sweating. This study examined the types of active substances contained in deodorants and antiperspirants from international cosmetic brands available in Poland (part of the EU market) and the frequency of their use. Product compositions were analysed based on INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) product labels. The investigation included the following 170 cosmetic products: 50 spray deodorants (from 50 different brands); 50 roll-on deodorants (from 50 brands); 20 stick deodorants (from 20 brands); 40 roll-on antiperspirants (from 40 brands); and 10 stick antiperspirants (from 10 brands). The most popular active components were Triethyl Citrate (51/120 formulations; 42.5%), followed by Alcohol (25.8%), Ethylhexylglycerin (25.0%), Caprylyl Glycol (12.5%), and Potassium Alum (10.0%). Antiperspirant products were dominated by aluminium-based compounds, with the most frequently used being the following aluminium-based salts: Aluminium Chlorohydrate (67.5%), Aluminium Sesquichlorohydrate (25.0%), and Aluminium Chloride (12.5%). In contrast, aluminium–zirconium complexes, such as Aluminum Zirconium Tri-, Penta-, and Octachlorohydrex Gly, were rarely used by cosmetic manufacturers. Additionally, composition complexity, i.e., the number of deodorizing and anti-sweating ingredients per single formulation, was examined for roll-on deodorants, stick deodorants, and roll-on antiperspirants. All tested antiperspirants and most deodorants contained fragrance-imparting ingredients; the most popular were Parfum/Fragrance, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, and Geraniol. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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23 pages, 4405 KiB  
Article
Viper Venom and Synthetic Peptides: Emerging Active Ingredients in Anti-Ageing Cosmeceuticals
by Dana Georgiana Moisă, Anca Maria Juncan, Luca-Liviu Rus, Andreea Loredana Vonica-Țincu, Gabriela Cormoș and Felicia Gabriela Gligor
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(8), 4501; https://doi.org/10.3390/app15084501 - 18 Apr 2025
Viewed by 435
Abstract
The animal kingdom, particularly reptiles, is widely recognized as a valuable source of peptides and proteins with applications in medicine, the pharmaceutical industry and, more recently, the cosmetic industry. This prompted an investigation into the prevalence of cosmetic products utilizing synthetic peptides, with [...] Read more.
The animal kingdom, particularly reptiles, is widely recognized as a valuable source of peptides and proteins with applications in medicine, the pharmaceutical industry and, more recently, the cosmetic industry. This prompted an investigation into the prevalence of cosmetic products utilizing synthetic peptides, with a specific focus on viper venom. A major objective of our study was a comparative analysis between natural venom-derived peptides and synthetic analogues, which could provide valuable insights into the market impact. The identification and inclusion of these products were based on their listings according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), alongside a review of the current literature and the recognition of relevant studies aimed at evaluating the composition of viper venom. Additionally, cosmetics were identified through online media using specific keywords such as “viper venom”, “snake venom”, “snake”, “SYN®-AKE”, “analogues of snake venom” or “synthetic snake venom”, followed by a comparative analysis of the products identified. The study provided an extensive background considering the market segmentation of viper venom-based and synthetic peptide-based cosmetics, including 245 cosmetics (70 manufacturers), also including the classification into Mass-Market and Premium-Market segments, which adds practical value. In 81% of the total analyzed products, the synthetic analogue was present, SYN®-AKE (INCI Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua), while 13% contained snake venom or viper venom. The high percentage of cosmetics categorized under the Mass-Market segment could be attributed to the use of synthetic peptides, given the high cost of natural viper venom as an anti-ageing ingredient, a price likely reflected in the final cosmetic product. In terms of product category, skin care cosmetics made up the largest share, followed by body care products, typically claiming anti-ageing and moisturizing properties. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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25 pages, 3717 KiB  
Article
Valorization of Grape Pomace Extract Through Dextran–Grape Conjugates: A Sustainable Approach for Cosmetic and Dermatological Applications
by Marisa Francesca Motta, Anna Francesca Vattimo, Fabio Amone, Rocco Malivindi, Ortensia Ilaria Parisi and Francesco Puoci
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(6), 3220; https://doi.org/10.3390/app15063220 - 15 Mar 2025
Viewed by 500
Abstract
Industrial waste management is a growing concern, and the valorization of by-products through circular economy approaches represents a sustainable solution. In this context, dextran–grape conjugates (PLG–GRAPE) were obtained via a grafting reaction of grape pomace extract and dextran under aqueous conditions. To compare [...] Read more.
Industrial waste management is a growing concern, and the valorization of by-products through circular economy approaches represents a sustainable solution. In this context, dextran–grape conjugates (PLG–GRAPE) were obtained via a grafting reaction of grape pomace extract and dextran under aqueous conditions. To compare the properties of the polymeric graft with those of the free extract, total polyphenol content was assessed using the Folin–Ciocalteu assay, along with stability and diffusion studies. In addition, in vitro safety evaluations, including Neutral Red Uptake, h-CLAT, and skin irritation tests were performed to assess the biocompatibility. To evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties of PLG–GRAPE, in vitro efficacy assays were performed on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines and full-thickness reconstructed human tissues exposed to damaging agents, such as UV radiation and pollutants. The results showed that the technology preserved the phenolic and antioxidant activity of the extract, while improving diffusion and stability properties. As demonstrated by the results of the in vitro studies, a favorable biocompatibility profile was observed, in addition to a significant capacity to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation in aged cells, thus, attenuating cellular aging and senescence. In conclusion, the study suggests that PLG–GRAPE has potential as a bioactive ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications, offering a sustainable and effective approach to utilizing industrial waste products. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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18 pages, 1243 KiB  
Article
From Forest Berry Leaf Waste to Micellar Extracts with Cosmetic Applications
by Małgorzata Zięba, Millena Ruszkowska and Joanna Klepacka
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(4), 2055; https://doi.org/10.3390/app15042055 - 16 Feb 2025
Viewed by 793
Abstract
The fruit of berry plants is primarily used for industrial purposes, while the leaves are often regarded as waste. However, these leaves, rich in valuable bioactive compounds, have the potential to serve as raw materials for various industries, including cosmetics. This study compared [...] Read more.
The fruit of berry plants is primarily used for industrial purposes, while the leaves are often regarded as waste. However, these leaves, rich in valuable bioactive compounds, have the potential to serve as raw materials for various industries, including cosmetics. This study compared the content of micro- and macronutrients in the leaves of wild strawberry, blackberry, and blueberry plants. It revealed a high mineral content, particularly in the leaves of wild strawberry and blackberry plants. The plant leaves were also shown to contain vitamin C and exhibited antioxidant activity. The leaves of berry plants were used to obtain micellar extracts, which were then incorporated into the formulation of prototype bath washes. A cosmetic formulation without any extracts served as a reference. In the next step, the prototype cosmetics were evaluated for their chosen properties. The findings showed that incorporating micellar leaf extracts into cosmetic formulations reduced their viscosity and ability to generate long-lasting foam, even in the presence of model sebum. Furthermore, the cosmetics formulated with the extracts exhibited a reduced capacity to emulsify fatty soils compared to the reference formulation, which could present an advantageous option for individuals with sensitive skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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16 pages, 1510 KiB  
Article
Enhanced Stability and Prolonged Insect-Repellent Action of Essential Oil-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers
by Aspasia Kechagia, Virginia D. Dimaki, Elena Mourelatou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis, Fotini N. Lamari and Sophia Hatziantoniou
Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(23), 11309; https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311309 - 4 Dec 2024
Viewed by 1251
Abstract
Mosquito-borne diseases are a global health concern, necessitating effective and long-lasting insect repellents. This study investigated the physicochemical properties, stability, release kinetics, and efficacy of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and conventional emulsions (CEs) containing essential oils (NLC EOs) for insect-repellent applications. The droplet [...] Read more.
Mosquito-borne diseases are a global health concern, necessitating effective and long-lasting insect repellents. This study investigated the physicochemical properties, stability, release kinetics, and efficacy of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and conventional emulsions (CEs) containing essential oils (NLC EOs) for insect-repellent applications. The droplet size of the CE was 18.46 ± 1.78 μm (Span 0.27 ± 0.06), while the NLC measured 136 ± 10.7 nm (PDI 0.26 ± 0.2) with a ζ-potential of –68 mV ± 2.2 mV (width 4.3 ± 0.1). EO incorporation did not significantly alter droplet size or ζ-potential. Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry confirmed an EO content of 8.57 ± 0.15 mg/mL in the CE EO and 7.75 ± 0.05 mg/mL in the NLC EO, with the NLC retaining a higher EO content over 90 days. Stability tests demonstrated consistent droplet sizes and ζ-potential for both formulations during storage. Release kinetics revealed diffusion-based release mechanisms, with the NLC providing a more sustained release than the CE. In a field test against mosquito species most frequently found in Greece, the NLC EO exhibited a significantly longer complete protection time (CPT) of 45 min, demonstrating more effective, long-lasting insect-repellent action. These findings revealed the NLC’s ability to retain volatile EO components efficiently, offering promising implications for long-lasting insect-repellent action. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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14 pages, 1096 KiB  
Article
An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract
by Marta Faggian, Silvia Lucchetti, Sara Ferrari, Gabriele De Nadai, Stefano Francescato, Giovanni Baratto, Nicola De Zordi, Silvia-Maria Stanic, Gregorio Peron, Stefania Sut, Alessandra Semenzato and Stefano Dall’Acqua
Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(22), 10603; https://doi.org/10.3390/app142210603 - 17 Nov 2024
Viewed by 1515
Abstract
The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different [...] Read more.
The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different steps, starting from material selection, extraction, chemical characterization, biological activity evaluation, and environmental impact calculation, was adopted to obtain innovative, sustainable, and effective cosmetic raw materials from food waste. As case report, a supercritical CO2 extract obtained from wild-strawberry-processing waste after jam production (WSWSCO2 extract) was developed. The fatty acids profile of the waste material and WSWSCO2 extract was investigated via a GC–MS method, and mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acids were detected. Furthermore, the ability of the WSWSCO2 extract to inhibit 5α-reductase type 1 expression in skin fibroblasts was assessed, confirming significant efficacy at the dose of 5 mg/mL. Finally, in view of the eco-sustainability approach, the environmental impact related to WSWSCO2 extract was calculated using a life cycle assessment (LCA) analytical approach, considering different parameters and indicators (e.g., carbon footprint) and verifying the eco-friendly approach in extract development and production. Although further research is needed, for example, to check the full composition of the extract and its effect on skin cells, these results suggest that the WSWSCO2 extract may represent an innovative and sustainable ingredient for cosmetic applications especially in topical preparation for the treatment of some androgenic-related discomfort, such as acne and androgenic alopecia, reflecting the potentiality of the holistic and pioneering approach related to ingredient development presented in this study for the cosmetic sector. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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Review

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67 pages, 2138 KiB  
Review
Antioxidants to Defend Healthy and Youthful Skin—Current Trends and Future Directions in Cosmetology
by Anna Budzianowska, Katarzyna Banaś, Jaromir Budzianowski and Małgorzata Kikowska
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(5), 2571; https://doi.org/10.3390/app15052571 - 27 Feb 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2286
Abstract
Antioxidants are indispensable in protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and lifestyle-related influences. This review examines the essential role of antioxidants in modern cosmetology, highlighting their dual functionality as protective agents and active [...] Read more.
Antioxidants are indispensable in protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and lifestyle-related influences. This review examines the essential role of antioxidants in modern cosmetology, highlighting their dual functionality as protective agents and active components in skincare formulations. Oxidative stress, primarily driven by an imbalance between reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and the skin’s defense mechanisms, accelerates aging processes, damages cellular structures, and compromises skin integrity. Antioxidants, whether natural or synthetic, act by neutralizing ROS, reducing inflammation, and promoting cellular repair, effectively mitigating these harmful effects. This comprehensive analysis synthesizes findings from 280 studies accessed via key databases, including PubMed, Scopus, and ScienceDirect. It investigates the biochemical mechanisms of antioxidant activity, emphasizing compounds such as vitamins (C, E, A), carotenoids, polyphenols, peptides, and minerals, alongside bioactive extracts derived from algae, fungi, lichens, and plants. Carotenoids, including ꞵ-carotene, lutein, lycopene, and astaxanthin, demonstrate potent antioxidant activity, making them crucial for photoprotection and anti-aging. Phenolic compounds, such as ferulic acid, resveratrol, hesperidin, and xanthohumol, play a significant role in neutralizing oxidative stress and improving skin health. This review also highlights bioactives from algae, fungi, and lichens. Algae, particularly microalgae like Haematococcus pluvialis, known for astaxanthin production, are highlighted for their extraordinary photoprotective and anti-aging properties. Brown algae (Fucus vesiculosus) and red algae (Porphyra) provide polysaccharides and bioactive molecules that enhance hydration and barrier function. Fungi contribute a wealth of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, including polysaccharides, ꞵ-glucans, and enzymes, which support cellular repair and protect against oxidative damage. Lichens, through unique phenolic metabolites, offer potent free-radical-scavenging properties and serve as effective ingredients in formulations targeting environmental stress. Plant-derived antioxidants offer a diverse range of benefits. Plant-derived antioxidants, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, and carotenoids, further amplify skin resilience, hydration, and repair mechanisms, aligning with the growing demand for nature-inspired solutions in cosmetics. The integration of these diverse natural sources into cosmetic formulations reflects the industry’s commitment to sustainability, innovation, and efficacy. By harnessing the synergistic potential of bioactives from algae, fungi, lichens, and plants, modern cosmetology is advancing toward multifunctional, health-conscious, and eco-friendly products. Future research directions include optimizing delivery systems for these bioactives, enhancing their stability and bioavailability, and expanding their applications to meet evolving dermatological challenges. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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13 pages, 422 KiB  
Review
Ciclopirox and Ciclopirox Olamine: Antifungal Agents in Dermatology with Expanding Therapeutic Potential
by Paulina Mucha, Bartłomiej Borkowski, Anna Erkiert-Polguj and Elzbieta Budzisz
Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(24), 11859; https://doi.org/10.3390/app142411859 - 18 Dec 2024
Viewed by 3375
Abstract
Ciclopirox (CPX) and its ethanolamine salt, ciclopirox olamine (CPO), are synthetic hydroxypyridone derivatives with a wide range of antimicrobial activity, making them valuable in dermatology for treating fungal infections. Their mechanism of action is multifaceted, impacting iron-dependent enzymes and disrupting mitochondrial function, cellular [...] Read more.
Ciclopirox (CPX) and its ethanolamine salt, ciclopirox olamine (CPO), are synthetic hydroxypyridone derivatives with a wide range of antimicrobial activity, making them valuable in dermatology for treating fungal infections. Their mechanism of action is multifaceted, impacting iron-dependent enzymes and disrupting mitochondrial function, cellular energy production, and membrane integrity. The compounds’ favorable physicochemical properties allow effective skin absorption, while the olamine salt enhances solubility and bioavailability. Research is ongoing to explore therapeutic uses beyond dermatology, including applications in autoimmune diseases, cancer, and neurodegenerative disorders. In cosmetics, ciclopirox is used primarily in anti-dandruff and skincare products, combining therapeutic effects with minimal side effects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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12 pages, 452 KiB  
Review
The Risk of Using Cosmetics and Cosmetic Procedures During Pregnancy
by Foteini Biskanaki, Niki Tertipi, Eleni Andreou, Eleni Sfyri, Vasiliki Kefala and Efstathios Rallis
Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(21), 9885; https://doi.org/10.3390/app14219885 - 29 Oct 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 4474
Abstract
This review aimed to identify the risks of cosmetics during the sensitive period of pregnancy. Pregnancy causes many hormonal changes and skin issues, such as red stretch marks, cellulite, and more. These aesthetic concerns can impact both the appearance and health of the [...] Read more.
This review aimed to identify the risks of cosmetics during the sensitive period of pregnancy. Pregnancy causes many hormonal changes and skin issues, such as red stretch marks, cellulite, and more. These aesthetic concerns can impact both the appearance and health of the pregnant woman. Cosmetics and aesthetic treatments can help improve these problems and positively affect the mental well-being of these women. However, the lack of clinical trials regarding the safety of such treatments during pregnancy has led to the recommendation of only the mildest aesthetic applications. Additionally, professional aestheticians and dermatologists who provide cosmetics and other aesthetic treatments (e.g., laser, radiofrequency (RF), ultrasound) during pregnancy face challenging and sometimes adverse working conditions. They should be treated with respect for their situation, with careful consideration of all the peculiarities associated with pregnancy. Further research and additional recorded data are crucial for better understanding the use of cosmetics and aesthetic treatments during pregnancy. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Cosmetics Ingredients Research - 2nd Edition)
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