Search Results (232)

(1) The growing interest in the use of natural and sustainable ingredients highlights the investigation of vegetable oils in dermato-cosmetic applications. In this context, the vegetable oil obtained from walnut (Juglans regia L.) is of actual interest due to its composition rich in unsaturated fatty acids. The aim of the present study was to investigate and characterize walnut oil from a physicochemical, structural, and rheological point of view. (2) The oil was obtained by a cold pressing process from walnut seeds, with a yield of about 51.03 ± 1.41%, and subsequently analyzed by complementary methods. (3) The results show an acceptable physicochemical profile, characterized by appropriate values of density, pH, and spreadability. The oxidative stability indicated a moderate resistance to degradation, specific to oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Fourier infrared transform spectrometry (FTIR) analysis confirmed the presence of functional groups characteristic of triglycerides, without indications of advanced oxidation, and atomic force microscopy (AFM) investigations revealed a heterogeneous morphology. The rheological properties indicated a pseudoplastic behavior, favorable for topical application. The determination of heavy metals confirmed the safety of the raw material for the intended dermato-cosmetic use. While arsenic levels were slightly above the strict Codex Alimentarius limits for foodstuffs, all values remained within the safety ranges established for cosmetic ingredients. A total of six fatty acids were found in cold-pressed walnut oil, determined using GC-MS methods. The number of compounds identified in the silylated sample was found to be 17. The antioxidant activity determined using DPPH and ABTS methods was generally considered good and relatively stable over time. The measured sun protection value (SPF) demonstrates a favorable capacity to act as a photoprotective ingredient against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. (4) Overall, the results demonstrate that walnut oil presents adequate physicochemical and structural properties, supporting its further use as a potential cosmetic raw material. Full article

Zinc oxide (ZnO) is widely utilized as a mineral UV filter in sunscreen formulations due to its broad-spectrum efficacy, photostability, and acceptance by natural cosmetic certification bodies. Despite its growing use, the environmental impact of ZnO on marine ecosystems remains under debate. While zinc is an essential micronutrient for aquatic organisms, excessive concentrations of Zn compounds, particularly in nanoparticulate form, have been thought to have detrimental effects, including coral bleaching, oxidative stress, and disruptions in metabolic and reproductive functions in marine species. This review synthesizes the current peer-reviewed literature on the ecotoxicological effects of ZnO, with particular emphasis on coral reef health, bioaccumulation, and trophic transfer pathways. Furthermore, real-world exposure scenarios are evaluated, incorporating field data from densely visited coastal regions and modeled environmental concentrations under worst-case use conditions. The aim of this study is to provide a comprehensive risk assessment of ZnO in sunscreen applications, balancing its recognized safety in human use with potential long-term impacts on aquatic ecosystems, thereby informing future regulatory decisions and sustainable product development. Full article

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), a class of secondary metabolites characterized by a cyclohexenone or cyclohexenimine ring structure bound to amino acid residues, are widely distributed in algae. These compounds exhibit strong ultraviolet-absorbing and antioxidant activities, making them attractive candidates for natural sunscreen formulations. However, the low productivity of MAAs in microalgae severely hampers commercial viability. Asterarcys sp., a fast-growing, heat- and light-tolerant microalga, has recently been demonstrated to produce high levels of MAAs under UV irradiation. In this study, phosphorus limitation was found to stimulate rapid MAAs accumulation in Asterarcys sp. SCSIO-46548. After eight days of cultivation, microalgal cells grown in phosphorus-free medium (0 mg L⁻¹) showed a sixfold higher MAAs content (1.08% DW) compared to the group supplied with 5.60 mg L⁻¹ phosphorus (0.18% DW). However, the accumulation of MAAs began to plateau under phosphorus deprivation. Based on integrated homology alignment with cyanobacteria and functional domain validation, a putative biosynthetic pathway for mycosporine-serine in Asterarcys sp. SCSIO-46548 was proposed. Importantly, the gene expression of desmethyl-4-deoxygadusol synthase (DDGS) exhibited a 2.75-fold upregulation under phosphorus limitation. Complementary bioinformatic analyses further characterized the subcellular localization and major physicochemical properties of the candidate enzymes involved. In conclusion, phosphorus limitation is an effective strategy to enhance MAAs production in Asterarcys sp. SCSIO-46548 by upregulating the expression of key biosynthetic genes, such as DDGS. This finding provides an effective solution to the low MAAs productivity in microalgae cultivation. Full article

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a recognized human carcinogen, and topical sunscreens remain the primary strategy for photoprotection. As community pharmacies represent trusted sources of skincare products, evaluating the composition of sunscreens distributed through this channel is particularly relevant. This cross-sectional market analysis investigated UV filters used in sunscreen products available in Lithuanian community pharmacies in November–December 2025. Products were identified through online pharmacy catalogs and assessed for labeled Sun Protection Factor (SPF), number and type of UV filters, and filter combinations in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. A total of 467 products from 98 brands were included, and 26 distinct UV filters were identified. Triazine derivatives predominated, particularly bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (64.67%) and ethylhexyl triazone (58.03%). Most products (61.67%) were labeled SPF ≥ 50 and contained multiple UV filters (mean 4.29 ± 1.66), with significantly more filters in SPF ≥ 50 formulations (p < 0.001). These results indicate that sunscreen products available in Lithuanian pharmacies are dominated by high-SPF formulations and selective multi-filter systems, providing region-specific insights relevant to regulatory oversight and consumer exposure assessment. Full article

Background/Objectives: Insect oils have gained attention as sustainable cosmetic ingredients due to their bioactive lipid content. This study aimed to characterize oils from cricket and to evaluate their safety, biological activities, and performance in sunscreen formulations. Methods: Oils were extracted from Gryllus bimaculatus, Teleogryllus mitratus, and Acheta domesticus by cold pressing following hot-air drying. Fatty acid composition was determined using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Safety was assessed by cytotoxicity testing in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) assay. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were evaluated by intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide (NO^•) assays. Based on biological performance, T. mitratus oil (TMO) was incorporated into sunscreen creams containing physical and chemical ultraviolet (UV) filters. Physical stability, viscosity, pH, sun protection factor (SPF), persistent pigment darkening/ultraviolet A protection factor (PPD/UVA-PF), and blue light protection were evaluated. Results: All cricket oils were non-cytotoxic to NHDF cells and were classified as non-irritating in the HET-CAM assay. TMO exhibited the strongest antioxidant activity, reducing intracellular ROS and significantly inhibiting NO^• production in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated cells. Only TMO showed measurable UVA protection (PPD/UVA-PF = 12.1, PA+++). Sunscreen creams formulated with TMO achieved higher photoprotective efficacy than olive oil-based creams, with SPF values up to 40.51 and PPD/UVA-PF up to 39.17. The inclusion of foundation pigments further increased SPF to 43.09 and enhanced blue light protection to 35.1%. Conclusions: TMO is a safe and effective multifunctional ingredient that enhances sunscreen performance and supports sustainable cosmetic formulation. Full article

Porphyra-334 (PPR-334) is one of the species of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), known as biological UV protection ingredients. In this study, we developed a large-scale purification process to extract PPR-334 from Saccharomyces cerevisiae and confirmed the previously identified efficacy of PPR-334, while also demonstrating its efficacy under UV-independent conditions. PPR-334 scavenged reactivity oxygen species (ROS) and increased catalase (CAT) gene expression in human epidermal keratinocyte cells (HEKa). In both HEKa and normal human dermal fibroblast cells (NHDF), PPR-334 suppressed the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). NHDF treated with PPR-334 showed increased collagen expression and proliferation, while advanced glycation end-product (AGE) production was decreased. It was confirmed that the efficacy in vitro was also reproduced in human artificial skin tissue models. Above all, the antioxidant efficacy mechanism of PPR-334 through nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) and Caspase-9 signals was identified. It was determined that the proliferation efficacy of PPR-334 was due to factors related to the cell cycle. These results demonstrate the anti-aging efficacy of PPR-334 independent of UV irradiation, while enhancing the UV-blocking and antioxidant effects. Thus, we suggest the potential of PPR-334 as a sunscreen agent as well as a dual- or multifunctional material. Full article

The transition to more sustainable models of production and consumption has encouraged the scientific community to seek innovative solutions that promote environmental responsibility and reduce waste. The cosmetic industry, in particular, has increasingly invested in natural and eco-friendly ingredients as alternatives to synthetic and environmentally harmful components. In this context, plant-derived bioactive compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential have gained attention for their ability to enhance photoprotection and reduce the concentration of conventional ultraviolet (UV) filters in sunscreens. Humulus lupulus L. (hop), a plant traditionally used in the brewing industry, generates large amounts of organic waste after the beer production process, especially through the dry-hopping technique. Despite often being discarded, this residual biomass retains important secondary metabolites with high biological value. Our investigation researched the sustainable valorization of hop brewing residues as a source of bioactive compounds for the development of more natural photoprotective products. We performed HLPC-MS/MS analysis and confirmed the presence of α-acids in both pure and reused hop material extracts, while a xanthohumol-like prenylated flavonoid was tentatively detected exclusively in the extract obtained from reused hop extract. In vitro tests demonstrated that sunscreens containing extract obtained from reused material significantly increased the sun protection factor (SPF) without negatively altering the critical wavelength when water was used as the solvent. None of the samples developed higher UVAPF values compared to the control. Our investigation, to the best of our knowledge, constitutes the first successful proof of concept demonstrating the use of both pure (non-reused) and reused hop material extracts as functional photoprotective adjuvants in sunscreen formulations evaluated by a robust, standardized in vitro methodology. This work highlights the dual benefit of reducing industrial waste and developing more sustainable, consumer-friendly cosmetic products. Full article

With the growing prominence of skin photodamage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, the development of efficient and safe natural photoprotectants has become a major research focus. Ginsenoside Re (G-Re), a primary active component of ginseng (Panax ginseng C. A. Mey.), has attracted much attention due to its significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities; however, its systemic role and mechanism in protecting against photodamage remain unclear. In this study, a UVB-induced rat photodamage model was established to evaluate the protective effect of ginsenoside Re through histopathological staining, biochemical assay, and immunohistochemical analysis. Furthermore, an integrated transcriptomic and metabolomic approach was applied to elucidate the molecular mechanism of G-Re protection and to establish the association between the photodamage phenotype, metabolic pathways, and gene functions. Following their identification via integrated multi-omics analysis, the key targets were subjected to verification via Western blotting. The results showed that G-Re could effectively alleviate UVB-induced pathological injury and reduce the level of oxidative stress and inflammatory factors, which could reverse regulate the abnormal expression of 265 differential genes and 30 metabolites. The glutathione metabolism pathway was proven as a key pathway mediating the protective effects of ginsenoside Re against skin photodamage via integrated analysis, WB verification, and molecular docking. The current study indicated that G-Re could be a promising natural sunscreen additive in cosmetical products. Full article

Background/Objectives: Organic UV filters are chemical compounds that are commonly used in sunscreen products to absorb UV radiation from the Sun. To date, the filters have been detected in aquatic environments worldwide, as well as in aquatic organisms, including fish and coral. Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3) is a common organic UV filter and it is well documented to be among the filters that are detectable worldwide in water samples and aquatic organisms. Long-term exposure in vivo studies have demonstrated that high doses of BP-3 can cause endocrine-disrupting effects in aquatic organisms. Methods: Using gonadal cell culture and quantitative RT-PCR, our study aimed to ascertain the effect of environmentally relevant doses of BP-3 (detected in aquatic systems) on the gene expression of reproductive targets, estrogen and growth hormone receptors (ERs and GHRs), in Mozambique tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus) after an acute 24 h treatment. Results/Conclusions: Our study is the first to use an in vitro design to investigate the mechanism of the action of BP-3 on gonadal tissue in fish. Our results show that BP-3 does not induce gene regulation directly on the gonads of tilapia at doses that are comparable to what is detectable in aquatic environments after 24 h. We do verify, as seen in other teleost species, homologous regulation of ERβ in male tilapia gonadal tissue. Full article

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving to create new formulations that offer controlled and specific release of active ingredients, as well as greater penetration, duration and stability of the resulting products. To fulfil all these objectives, the use of cyclodextrins in different cosmetic formulations is being considered. CDs are cyclic oligosaccharides with a hydrophilic outer surface and an inner cavity able to encapsulate hydrophobic molecules. This property can be used to form complexes with hydrophobic molecules and solubilise them in aqueous matrices, such as creams or gels. This review analyses the main advantages that these agents provide in cosmetic products, such as protection, administration and controlled release of bioactive ingredients, improved water solubility, reduced fragrance volatility, masking off unpleasant odours, modification of the physicochemical properties of formulations or prevention of ingredient side effects, among others. Formulations of lotions, sunscreens, deodorants, gels or perfumes containing CDs are already on the market, and new ones are being developed. Moreover, the regulations concerning their use, the types of cyclodextrins allowed and the mechanism required to produce CD-guest inclusion complexes are reviewed. Likewise, the use of CDs alone or encapsulating other compounds makes them an extremely versatile nanomaterial for dermofacial and cosmetic formulations. Full article

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin photoaging impacts both appearance and skin health, potentially leading to disorders and cancer. Unlike traditional sunscreens, natural antioxidants can target photoaging at its source. Among these, cathelicidins have attracted considerable research interest due to their multifunctional properties. This study examines the gecko-derived cathelicidin-modified peptide G3CY-10, utilizing a microemulsion gel delivery system to address the challenges related to the transdermal absorption of macromolecular peptides, and systematically assesses its anti-photoaging effects and underlying mechanisms. The results demonstrate that the G3CY-10 microemulsion, formulated with a lecithin–ethanol–butyl acetate system (km = 1:1), exhibits notable stability, and the gelation significantly enhances the transdermal delivery efficiency of G3CY-10. The anti-photoaging efficacy of the G3CY-10 microemulsion gel is substantiated by its capacity to mitigate UV-induced skin photoaging in murine models. This is evidenced by a decrease in epidermal thickness, suppression of sebaceous gland proliferation, and restoration of collagen fiber density. Masson staining further corroborates a significant reduction in collagen degradation. Mechanistic analyses suggest that G3CY-10 primarily confers protection by inhibiting UV-induced collagen degradation and reversing the depletion of superoxide dismutase. This study provides a theoretical foundation and technical support for the clinical translation of natural peptides and the development of innovative anti-photoaging products. Full article

Valorization of Phoenix dactylifera L. (date) seeds, an abundant agro-industrial byproduct, offer a sustainable approach to developing multifunctional ingredients for dermocosmetic photoprotection. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and lipophilic antioxidants, date seed extracts and oils demonstrate promising UV-absorbing, anti-inflammatory, and free-radical-scavenging properties. Recent in vitro, ex vivo, and preclinical studies underscore their potential as bioactive agents in sunscreen formulations, supporting both skin barrier integrity and oxidative stress mitigation, although clinical validation is still required. This review consolidates current knowledge on the phytochemical profile and biological efficacy of date seed derivatives, with emphasis on their integration into advanced delivery systems such as nanocarriers, Pickering emulsions, and cyclodextrin complexes to enhance photostability, skin permeability, and esthetic acceptability. Safety aspects, including allergenicity, phototoxicity, and regulatory gaps, are critically examined alongside environmental and ethical advantages, including biodegradability and vegan suitability. The findings advocate for the inclusion of Phoenix dactylifera L. seed actives in next-generation dermocosmetic sunscreens that align with circular bioeconomy principles, consumer demand for “reef-safe” products, and evolving international regulations. Further clinical validation is encouraged to fully translate these botanically derived agents into effective and ethically sound sun care innovations. Full article

Background: currently, there is a growing trend toward multifunctional cosmetics, which combine several active ingredients in a single product to enhance efficacy and user convenience. As ingredients may influence one another, it is important to study the behavior of mixing multiple compounds in complex formulations, especially regarding their interaction with the skin. Piceatannol, for instance, is a naturally occurring stilbene recognized for its in vitro potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging activities, making it a promising candidate for dermocosmetic use in suncare. But despite its beneficial biological activities, its cutaneous permeation remains poorly understood, particularly when delivered from complex formulations containing multiple ingredients. Objectives: in this sense, this study aimed to evaluate the in vitro skin diffusion profile of piceatannol from a passion fruit seed extract (P_ext) incorporated into a topical base (B_em) or an organic sunscreen emulsion (O_em), with or without a spilanthol-rich Acmella oleracea extract (J_ext) used as a natural permeation enhancer. Methods: due to ethical and variability issues with human and animal skins, the Strat-M™ synthetic membrane was chosen as a standardized model for the in vitro skin permeation assays. Piceatannol localization within membrane layers was examined by confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), while compound identification in donor and receptor compartments was performed via UHPLC-DAD. Results: piceatannol from B_em was detected up to 140 µm from the Strat-M™ surface and exceeded 180 µm in depth when J_ext and organic sunscreens were included in the formulation. Notably, formulations containing J_ext and those based on O_em promoted enhanced accumulation in both the stratum corneum and deeper skin layers, suggesting an improved delivery potential in lipid-rich vehicles. Conclusions: even though some instability issues were observed, piceatannol penetration into Strat-M™ from the proposed formulations was confirmed, and the results provide a foundation for further research on its topical delivery, supporting the rational development of formulations capable of harnessing its demonstrated biological properties. Full article

Background/Objectives: Unceasing exposure of skin and its microbiome to various external and internal factors influences its health. Any imbalance ensuing may result in dysbiosis and consequently skin diseases. Thus, it becomes critical to identify and recognize the influence of several factors on the skin microbiome and various disorders associated with it. Methods: In the current investigation, we studied the skin microbiomes of 37 subjects using the next-generation shotgun sequencing method and compared them with 48 healthy subjects from the Human Microbiome Project (HMP). This work focused on the analysis of the impact of different skin care routines—use of sunscreen and moisturizers—on the skin microbiome and related skin diseases. Results: Differences were observed between the microbiomes of subjects who were using only moisturizer (p = 3.1 × 10⁻⁵) or moisturizer with sunscreen (p = 3.2 × 10⁻¹³) and those who did not use these products at all. We also observed differences in the skin microbiomes of males vs. females with respect to the use of moisturizer. The composition of the skin microbiomes of female participants showed a higher difference in diversity in comparison to males. The current investigation also found that usage of sunscreen might help in retaining skin-protecting species in the skin microbiome. Conclusions: This work allowed us to understand the impact of moisturizer and sunscreen on skin health. The present evaluation shall pave the way for personalized skin care product development. Full article

Arthrospira platensis extract is incorporated into sunscreen formulations for its beneficial and UV-protective properties on cultured human cells. However, its effects have not yet been assessed on non-target organisms such as endosymbiotic microalgae in coral tissue. To evaluate its effects, we investigated the photophysiology of the cultured dinoflagellate Cladocopium goreaui using PAM fluorometry (RLC, OJIP) after a 5-day exposure to different extract concentrations. Our results show that, through a hormetic effect, A. platensis enhances the performance index (Pi_Abs) at 0.018 mg L⁻¹ by increasing the number of active reaction centers (RC/ABS) and improving electron transfer efficiency (φEo, ψEo) along the electron transport chain. Conversely, beyond 108.8 mg L⁻¹, negative impacts appear on PSII, increasing the apparent antenna size (ABS/RC) and impairing the oxygen-evolving complex (K-peak), ultimately reducing the maximum relative electron transport rate (rETR_m). This relative toxicity, obtained only for the highest concentrations, supports its potential incorporation into cosmetic formulations. This study contributes to improving the ecotoxicity assessment of cosmetic products on non-target organisms. Full article