Search Results (118)

The growing demand for natural and sustainable skincare products has driven interest in plant-based active ingredients, especially from in vitro cultures. This placebo-controlled study investigated the impact of a facial cream containing 2% Kickxia elatine (L.) Dumort cell suspension culture extract on various skin biophysical parameters. The cream was applied to the cheek once daily for six weeks on 40 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 40 to 49. The evaluated skin parameters including skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema intensity (EI), melanin intensity (MI), skin surface pH, and skin structure, wrinkle depth, vascular lesions, and vascular discolouration. The results indicated that significant improvements were observed in skin hydration (from 40.36 to 63.00 AU, p < 0.001) and there was a decrease in TEWL score (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001), while the skin surface pH was maintained (14.82 to 11.76 g/h/m², p < 0.001). Moreover, the K. elatine cell extract significantly improved skin structure values (9.23 to 8.50, p = 0.028), reduced vascular lesions (2.72 to 1.54 mm², p = 0.011), and lowered skin discolouration (20.98% to 14.84%, p < 0.001), indicating its moisturising, protective, brightening, and soothing properties. These findings support the potential use of K. elatine cell extract in dermocosmetic formulations targeting dry, sensitive, or ageing skin. Full article

Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.) fruits represent the recognized wellspring of bioactive compounds with various documented bioactivities. Although bilberry leaves are often treated as industrial by-products, they also represent a valuable source of phytochemicals with potential dermocosmetic applications. In this study, extracts of bilberry fruits and leaves were prepared using both conventional solvents (water and 50% ethanol) and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) as green, biodegradable alternatives. The aim of this study was to examine the UV protective activity and inhibitory potential of those extracts against some enzymes (tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, collagenase) that are important in terms of skin conditioning and skin aging. The results of in vitro tests have shown the superiority of NaDES extracts compared to conventional extracts regarding all tested bioactivities. In addition, bilberry leaves extracts were more potent compared to fruit extracts in all cases. The most potent extract was bilberry leaf extract made with malic acid–glycerol, which exhibited strong anti-tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 3.52 ± 0.26 mg/mL), anti-hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 3.23 ± 0.30 mg/mL), and anti-collagenase (IC₅₀ = 1.84 ± 0.50 mg/mL) activities. The correlation analysis revealed correlation between UV protective and anti-tyrosinase, UV protective and anti-collagenase as well as between anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase activity. UV protection and anti-tyrosinase activity correlated significantly with chlorogenic acid and hyperoside contents in extracts. The extracts with the best activities also demonstrated a good safety profile in a 24 h in vivo study on human volunteers. Full article

Plant by-products have gained significant attention due to their rich content in bioactive compounds, which exhibit promising antioxidant, antimicrobial, and antitumor properties. In European countries, vegetable waste generation ranged from 35 to 78 kg per capita in 2022, highlighting both the scale of the challenge and the potential for valorization. This review provides an overview of key studies investigating the potential of plant residues in biomedicine, highlighting their possible contents of antioxidant compounds, their antimicrobial and antitumor properties, as well as their applications in dermocosmetics and nutraceuticals. However, despite their potential, several challenges must be addressed, such as the standardization of extraction protocols, as bioactive compound profiles can vary with plant source, processing conditions, and storage methods. Effective segregation and storage protocols for household organic waste also require optimization to ensure the quality and usability of plant by-products in biomedicine. Emerging 4.0 technologies could help to identify suitable plant by-products for biomedicine, streamlining their selection process for high-value applications. Additionally, the transition from in vitro studies to clinical trials is hindered by gaps in the understanding of Absorption, Distribution, Metabolism, and Excretion (ADME) properties, as well as interaction and toxicity profiles. Nonetheless, environmental education and societal participation are crucial to enabling circular bioeconomy strategies and sustainable biomedical innovation. Full article

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are increasingly transforming the landscape of cosmetic formulation, enabling the development of safer, more effective, and personalized products. This article explores how AI-driven predictive modeling is applied across various components of cosmetic products, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, and prebiotics. These technologies are employed to forecast critical properties such as texture, stability, and shelf-life, optimizing both product performance and user experience. The integration of computational toxicology and ML algorithms also allows for early prediction of skin sensitization risks, including the likelihood of adverse events such as allergic contact dermatitis. Furthermore, AI models can support efficacy assessment, bridging formulation science with dermatological outcomes. The article also addresses the ethical, regulatory, and safety challenges associated with AI in cosmetic science, underlining the need for transparency, accountability, and harmonized standards. The potential of AI to reshape dermocosmetic innovation is vast, but it must be approached with robust oversight and a commitment to user well-being. Full article

In the context of modern dermocosmetic development, multifunctional topical gel-cream formulations must be efficient for both therapeutic efficacy and cosmetic applications. This study presents a comparative physicochemical and pharmacotechnical analysis of three topical gel-cream formulations developed by Brand Chanand^®: Acne Control Cleanser (ACC), Acne Face Cream (AFC), and Gentle Cream Cleanser Serum Control, Regenerating, Hydrating, Calming (IRC). Each formulation is enriched with a specific blend of bioactive compounds, including botanical oils, vitamins, and proteins, designed to treat acne, to support skin regeneration, and to maintain the skin barrier. A multidisciplinary approach was used, including Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), rheological evaluation, pH and density determination, spreadability analysis, and oxidative stability testing to evaluate the products. Antioxidant capacity was assessed through multiple in vitro assays. The results demonstrated that all three gel-cream formulations exhibit pseudoplastic rheological behaviour, suitable for topical application. AFC showed the highest oxidative stability and antioxidant activity, while IRC presented superior spreadability and cosmetic efficacy, likely due to its complex composition. ACC displayed faster absorption and was ideal for targeted use on oily or acne-prone skin. The differences observed in the stability and performance suggest that the ingredient synergy, base composition, and solubility profiles show notable variations in dermato-cosmetic formulations. These findings highlight the formulation–performance relationship in topical gel-cream formulations and support the development of new cosmetic products tailored for sensitive and acne-prone skin. Full article

Colonization of plant tissues by bacterial endophytes might lead to qualitative and quantitative changes in secondary metabolites (SMs). In this work, in vitro co-culture experiments were performed using cell suspensions of the medicinal plant Alkanna tinctoria and eight of its bacterial endophytes. An untargeted metabolomics approach using Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UHPLC-HRMS) was employed to investigate plant–microbe interactions. Hierarchical clustering analysis and principal component analysis highlighted significant modifications of specific regulation patterns in SM production, caused by bacterial endophytes. The annotation step lead to the identification of 32 stimulated compounds in A. tinctoria cell suspensions. Among them, 3′-hydroxy-14-hydroxyshikonofuran H (5), 8′-decarboxy-rosmarinic acid (18), 8‴-decarboxy-salvianolic B (23), 8″-8‴-didecarboxy-salvianolic acid B (26) were putatively identified for the first time. Our findings highlight that employing selected microbial inoculants under controlled conditions can be an effective strategy for enhancing or stimulating the production of specific high-value metabolites. Full article

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens. Full article

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species. Full article

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors. Full article

The ultraviolet (UV) component of solar radiation is a major risk factor for the development of skin ailments, ranging from erythema in acute cases to premature skin aging and skin cancer in chronic reactions. While skin cells show a remarkable protective capacity against solar radiation, there is a growing interest in the use of natural substances for photoprotection purposes. This article describes the molecular and cellular mechanisms underlying UV radiation-induced skin aging, with a particular focus on the potential beneficial effects of hesperidin and its derivatives: hesperetin, hesperidin glucoside, and hesperidin methylchalcone. A review of the literature from the last 20 years reveals a substantial body of experimental evidence supporting the role of hesperidin in protecting the skin against UV radiation, and its effects on skin cells and tissue, including oxidative stress and aging processes. Moreover, flavonoids have other beneficial effects on skin cell vitality by modulating the immune system, metalloproteinases, and angiogenesis. The key mechanisms for the action of hesperidin and its derivatives involve the activation of the Nrf-2/ARE system, the expression of longevity genes CISD2, and interference with the MAP kinase and PI3PK/Akt signal transduction pathways. In murine experimental models, these derivative molecules have a protective role both systemically after dietary intake and through the topical application of dermocosmetic creams. Full article

Olive leaves, the main byproducts of olive cultivation, are characterized by a plethora of bioactive metabolites with significant nutritional value. Their main pentacyclic triterpenes, Oleanolic Acid (OA) and Maslinic Acid (MA), are two high added-value compounds with remarkable activities. This study aimed to develop an efficient methodology for extracting and purifying OA and MA, utilizing Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE) and Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC)—two modern, scalable, and green techniques. A total of 21 g of olive leaves were subjected to SFE using supercritical CO₂ and ethanol as co-solvent. The extraction employed a step gradient mode, starting with 100% CO₂ and incrementally increasing ethanol (0–10% w/w) every 20 min. Fractions rich in OA and MA (500 mg) were further purified via CPC, utilizing pH zone refining to exploit the protonation and deprotonation properties of acidic triterpenes. The biphasic solvent system consisted of n-hexane, ethyl acetate, ethanol, and water (8:2:5:5 v/v/v/v), with trifluoroacetic acid added to the stationary phase and triethylamine added to the mobile phase. This two-step process yielded 89.5 mg of OA and 28.5 mg of MA with over 95% purity, as confirmed by HPLC-ELSD and ¹H-NMR. Moreover, purified compounds and SFE fractions exhibited promising elastase and collagenase inhibition, highlighting them as dermocosmetic agents. Full article

Background/Objectives: This study investigates the physical, rheological, and antioxidant properties of nano-liposomal formulations encapsulating Fumaria officinalis L. (fumitory) extract, focusing on their stability and performance under ultraviolet (UV) exposure, as well as polyphenol release within simulated skin conditions in a Franz diffusion cell. Methods: Liposomal formulations, composed of phospholipids with or without β-sitosterol or ergosterol, were evaluated for their encapsulation efficiency, liposome size, size distribution, zeta potential, viscosity, surface tension, density, oxidative stability, antioxidant capacity, and polyphenol recovery. Results: Encapsulation efficiency was the highest in phospholipid liposomes (72.2%) and decreased with the incorporation of sterols: 66.7% for β-sitosterol and 62.9% for ergosterol liposomes. Encapsulation significantly increased viscosity and reduced surface tension compared to the plain liposomes, suggesting modified interfacial behavior. The inclusion of fumitory extract significantly increased the viscosity of liposomes (from ~2.5 to 6.09–6.78 mPa × s), consistent with the observed reduction in particle size and zeta potential. Antioxidant assays (thiobarbituric acid reactive substances—TBARS, 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid—ABTS, and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl—DPPH) confirmed enhanced lipid peroxidation inhibition and radical scavenging upon encapsulation, with ABTS activity reaching up to 95.05% in sterol-containing liposomes. Release studies showed that the free extract exhibited the fastest polyphenol diffusion (5.09 × 10⁻⁹ m²/s), while liposomes demonstrated slower/controlled release due to bilayer barriers. UV-irradiated liposomes released more polyphenols than untreated ones, particularly in the sterol-containing formulations, due to oxidative destabilization and pore formation. Conclusions: These findings highlight the potential of fumitory extract-loaded liposomes as stable, bioactive carriers with tunable polyphenol antioxidant release properties for dermal applications. Overall, liposomal formulations of fumitory extract exhibit significant potential for further development as a pharmaceutical, cosmetic, or dermo-cosmetic ingredient for use in the prevention and treatment of various skin disorders. Full article

Ectoine is a substance produced by extremophiles and is naturally used by them as protection against adverse environmental conditions in which they live. Scientific contributions discuss its excellent effect through cosmotropic properties, prevention of secondary messenger release in cells, and transcription factors. The influence on the lipid layer of the cell membrane and its preventive effect as a UV filter were also demonstrated. What is more, its anti-oxidative effect was established. Ectoine works as an immunostimulant and also has anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. These attributes are dominating factors in the use of ectoine’s properties in skin fractionation treatment with a C${\mathrm{O}}_2$ laser. In the following work, the influence of ectoine on skin parameters was described, focusing on redness, moisturization, and TEWL after the use of a C${\mathrm{O}}_2$ laser (Załęska 2019). The rheological properties of preparations with ectoine addition were also tested. The yield point was determined, the viscosity changes of cosmetic preparations were measured with increasing shear rates, and oscillation tests were performed. With increasing percentages of ectoine and frequency of application, the occurrence of redness after C${\mathrm{O}}_2$ therapy decreased. The highest moisture level values from 54.4 × 0.02 mg/c${\mathrm{m}}^2$ to 72.5 × 0.02 mg/c${\mathrm{m}}^2$ were obtained for preparation A applied twice a day; for the same preparation, a reduction in TEWL from 6.2 to 5.3 g/(${\mathrm{m}}^2$·h) was obtained. The results of the tests of cosmetic emulsions allowed us to conclude that the preparations in the analyzed shear rate range at all tested temperatures are non-Newtonian liquids that are shear-thinning and have a flow limit. The obtained results of the conducted research prove the positive effect of dermocosmetics with ectoine content in the process of skin healing. Full article

Modern dermocosmetics combine the effectiveness of active substances with the benefits of percutaneous penetration enhancers to address skin issues such as hyperpigmentation. In this study, three bioactive tripeptides (with amino acid sequences CSF, CVL, and CSN) with previously confirmed tyrosinase inhibition activity were synthesized using the solid-phase synthesis method. The structures of the obtained peptides were determined. In addition, elastase in silico and in vitro inhibition assays were carried out. The tripeptides were subsequently encapsulated into liposomes, for which key physicochemical parameters were determined, including size, zeta potential, and encapsulation efficiency. The average diameter of the prepared liposomes was approximately 100 nm across all samples. The prepared carriers were found to be stable and exhibited no cytotoxicity toward reconstructed human epidermis cells. The peptides achieved an encapsulation efficiency of approximately 20–30%, with no significant differences observed between the cationic and anionic vesicles. Liposomes containing the CSF tripeptide, which showed the strongest tyrosinase-inhibiting effect, did not transport the peptide through the human skin in an ex vivo assay to permit quantification in the receptor solution, but facilitated penetration and retention of the tripeptide within the epidermis (4.65 ± 1.81 μg/cm²). These findings suggest that the prepared liposomes may serve as valuable carriers of bioactive tripeptides in anti-aging cosmetics. Full article

The stability of Cotinus coggygria extract-loaded liposomes (non-treated and UV-irradiated) was determined after 60 days through an investigation of the impact of storage on liposomal physical and antioxidant properties. The liposome size varied in a narrow range for 60 days; PDI was 0.273–0.313 (non-treated) and 0.829–0.911 (UV-irradiated). The zeta potential ranged from −28.2 to −29.6 mV (non-treated) and from −21.5 to −22.0 mV (UV-irradiated). The obtained liposomes with the extract neutralized 81.9% of free DPPH radicals before UV irradiation and 80.9% after irradiation. In the ABTS assay, UV irradiation also significantly reduced the antioxidant capacity, from 12.02 to 10.55 µmol Trolox equivalent (TE)/mL. The ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the UV-irradiated liposomes significantly decreased after the 60-day storage (8.93 µmol TE/mL and 75.4%, respectively), whereas in the non-treated sample, the mentioned drop in antioxidant capacity was not noticed. Liposomal formulations of C. coggygria extract can exhibit significant potential for further development as a functional food or dermo-cosmetic ingredient. Full article